JONATHAN SIMKHAI JUXTAPOSED

Through June, Jonathan Simkhai presents a shop-within-a-shop at MARKET.

BY ELAINE RAFFEL

Jonathan Simkhai. Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai.

Selections from Jonathan Simkhai pre-fall and fall 2022 ready-to-wear collections. Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai.

When it comes to fashion-forward looks, Jonathan Simkhai knows what women want. His eponymous label is the epitome of modern versatility—a mix of familiar silhouettes made new and enticing with sumptuous fabrications, deluxe detailing, and intricate handwork. “My design philosophy is really rooted on dichotomies and juxtapositions,” Simkhai says. “How do we change things up and make them feel a little bit different?”

Case in point: Simkhai’s fall 2022 collection. Beaded fringe adorns formfitting knits. Strategic cutouts give a signature shirtdress a sexy update. Other standouts include glittery, sequin-embellished pieces and tailored-with-atwist jackets. “The woman who wears my clothes appreciates quality and craft. She doesn’t want anything that’s too basic.”

She’s also a woman who loves fashion, which is exactly why Simkhai chose Dallas for his inaugural in-store pop-up. “People here are so hospitable and friendly. And Dallas women really appreciate fashion and art and culture,” he tells us. “They get excited turning out at a store to meet the designer.”

And now through the end of June, welcome to the world of Jonathan Simkhai. The designer’s ready-to-wear, runway apparel, and his new accessories line of footwear, handbags, and sun hats are available at MARKET’s rotating residency space in Highland Park Village, the brainchild of Elisa Summers and chief creative officer Keenan Walker.

It’s a welcome change. Throughout the pandemic, going-out clothes were a tough sell. “But we’re definitely in a better place,” Simkhai says. “People either want something that feels really fun and celebratory or pieces that feel very versatile.” Simkhai’s clothes deliver both—a testament to the success of the 12-year-old brand. In 2015, he earned the ultimate recognition for emerging designers: the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. Three years later, Simkhai moved his operation to Los Angeles, partly for the weather but, more importantly, to create an environment where he and his team could thrive creatively.

During fall fashion week this past February, Simkhai had two spots on the calendar. The day before his in-person presentation, he was the inaugural designer at Metaverse Fashion Week, the first to transform a collection into digital wearables. “It was business as usual with an extra fun layer,” he told Vogue. His pre-fall lookbook video, shot on location at Cal Poly’s theater department building, was equally memorable. “I love the idea of mixing fashion with different art forms,” says Simkhai. “There was something so structured, so sculptural, about the architecture, but then the clothes were so soft and fluid.” And in fall 2021, with Los Angeles under lockdown, he photographed his free-flowing collection on dancers from the California-based troupe Jacob Jonas The Company.

At his Dallas opening he said, “People are looking for something with purpose, with meaning. There’s so much beautiful product out there in the world, so many brands. But really, everyone is just looking for connection.”

We asked. Jonathan answered.

Favorite color? “I like unexpected mixes—colors that shouldn’t necessarily go together. But then when you look at them, you’re like, ‘wow, that’s really pretty.’”

Vacation spot? “Maui. It’s magical. We go every year for Christmas.”

Advice you’d give your younger self? “Don’t take reviews to heart. At the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter.”

Favorite artist? Basquiat. I love the combination of something that feels urban and, at the same time, fresh and exciting.

Bucket list? “I want to take a photography class. And also do more ceramics.

Standout career moment (other than the CFDA award)? “When my husband and I got married, there was a girl waiting in line for the judge wearing one of my dresses. When I told her I was Jonathan, the designer, she started crying.” P

Top: Jonathan Simkhai fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection. Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai; bottom: Jonathan Simkhai pop-up shop at Market in Highland Park Village. Photograph by Beckley.