AN ARTFUL CAMARADERIE

Tanya Taylor animates the élan of Elaine de Kooning in her fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection.

BY TERRI PROVENCAL

Tanya Taylor at the Elaine de Kooning House and Studio.

In a serendipitous turn, Canadian-born fashion designer Tanya Taylor filmed her fall 2022 collection at the East Hampton home of Chris Byrne, an ongoing Patron contributor and the founder of the Elaine de Kooning House and Studio, which has hosted exhibitions and informal artist residencies since 2011. Meanwhile, boutique director Nerissa von Helpenstill was busy making plans for Tootsie’s runway presentation with Tanya Taylor, this year’s featured designer of the Mad Hatter’s Tea at the Dallas Arboretum on April 20.

An admirer of Elaine de Kooning’s enduring strength, Taylor, who always breaks from the status quo, drew inspiration from the late artist’s postwar practice. We spoke with the New York–based designer following the collection’s filming and release.

Terri Provencal (TP): You’ve painted your entire life, and your own handpainted prints are your signature. What does the intersection of art and fashion mean to you? Tanya Taylor (TT): I grew up in a highly creative environment, to the point where I was even allowed to paint walls in our home. I was always encouraged to pursue my artistic sensibilities and think out of the box. Being able to be at the intersection of art and fashion means that I’m able to make art accessible and approachable to more people and give them the tools to express themselves creatively and confidently. TP: The Tanya Taylor fall 2022 collection was inspired by Elaine de Kooning, whose practice straddled abstract expressionism and portraiture. What drew you to her? Have you always admired her work? TT: I’ve always felt drawn to the stories of female artists, and I am so passionate about keeping their visions alive. De Kooning was simply fascinating to me; she was described by Brandon Brame Fortune [the author of Elaine de Kooning: Portraits (2015)] as at the “red-hot center of everything that was happening in New York City.” She was such a supporter of other female creatives, and even through the residency program established in her former house. She created this spirit of camaraderie in the artistic community, and I want to help keep it alive. TP: And how did you discover the Elaine de Kooning House, which just entered the National Register of Historic Places in January? TT: I lived in East Hampton during the pandemic and did not actually know about the Elaine de Kooning House and Studio until we started looking for interesting places to take an inspiration trip in the area. It was so exciting to discover such a culturally significant place just a stone’s throw away. TP: You filmed your fall collection at this East Hampton studio, which includes an artist’s residency program. You even painted while there. Tell us about the experience. TT: De Kooning created some of her most important works in that home, and standing where she once stood to create was such an honor. When we think back to the trip, we can’t help but feel so lucky to have been given the opportunity to create so freely in her home. We explored every nook and cranny, discovered some of her personal effects, and walked away with so many new creative ideas

Tanya Taylor's fall 2022 collection is inspired by the Elaine de Kooning House and Studio, revealing an elegant point of view with a nocturnal sensibility. All images courtesy of Tanya Taylor. not just for the shoot we did, but ideas that we’ll want to continue to ruminate on. TP: Describe the mood of fall you describe as “nocturnal elegance” and how fabrics, such as ink-washed prints, embody this. TT: We printed on liquid lurex, worked with velvet ponte, and did some incredible trims to bring a sense of nighttime and playfulness to life. And being in the house also helped us to convey this mood through the images we shot. We used the light that came through the angled window as a mood trigger to what we were doing. We shot the daytime looks in daylight, and as it got darker, we moved into the evening looks and were able to really showcase them in their full glory. TP: You are the featured designer for the Mad Hatter’s Tea presented by Tootsies at the Dallas Arboretum. It’s always a festive, albeit a highly competitive, event in the hat category. Will you share your plans for the runway show? TT: The theme for the Mad Hatter’s Tea is going to be about all things Dallas, which is so exciting for me as a Canadian. I don’t want to ruin the surprise for our runway show, but expect to see our artful prints—and even if you’re not into prints, I think we’ll be able to change your mind. TP: What can ladies find in store at Tootsie’s? Favorite silhouettes? TT: The current collection in store was inspired by the spirited prints of the young artist Ammon Rost. You’ll find fine knits and sand-washed cotton dresses in our hand-drawn chalk floral print. I think many of us have exciting trips and occasions coming up, and there are so many great pieces that go from day to night. TP: Your brand is dedicated to strong women and individuality. Will you share with us what it means to embrace women of all shapes, sizes, and ages in your collections? TT: It means that when we design, we keep real women and their lives in mind, and not an idealized version of who we think our customer is. We’re constantly asking for feedback on social media and host regular Instagram Live events so that our customer always feels like they’re able to have a conversation with us about our designs. P