#ISSUE 2
TEAMLETTER At this moment, the whole world is looking at London. We’re now the world’s second city for fashion, putting New York and Milan to shame and stepping on Paris’ manicured toes. This month, Juicebox celebrates what London (and the rest of our grey little island) is celebrated for; our unbridled eccentricity, rich heritage and forward thinking. It’s all about considering where we’ve been, then using our talent for thinking uniquely to decipher where we’re going next. As the next generation of creative people, what from our heritage will be our design reference points in ten years? On page 13, Natalie Bell explores who will be the next team of fashion-genius that will be running the industry in years to come in her piece The Future Icons. After all, the Annas and Karls of this world have to retire eventually, who will be the individual thinkers who will replace them?
FEATURES Abbie Niroomand-Rad Alisa Milchevskaya Elizabeth Fowler Elliot Rose Emily Vinter Holly Knowles Jessica Calderwood Natalie- Catherine Bell Paige Cronin Victoria Simpson
It’s estimated that a third of Londoners were born outside the UK, and our unique sense of style reflects that. It’s the individuality of multiculturalism that we celebrate in our Faith in Fashion editorial on page 23. We live in a more diverse Britain today than ever before, Nathan Henry and Becky Lightbody delve into our rich cultural mix to deliver a fresh fashion story that explores the cultural values of our generation, and the many religions that have flourished in the UK. As the 90’s kids start getting real jobs and becoming proper adults, it’s time to celebrate our heritage, our eccentricity and our creative future – let’s celebrate and own it. Welcome to issue two.
NEWS Anastasia Senroka Gemma Elliot Jessica Brooks Stephanie Aboagye Tiya Muluzi Zeenah Fazal Samm Bate
The Team.
STYLISTS Alice Willson Becky Lightbody David Daley Jenna Pihkola Lacey Teoli Nathan Henry Polly Duff PHOTOGRAPHERS Matthew Anderson Natalie Hepworth Nicole Patrice Sara Babikz PRODUCTION Amy England Nadia Shaikh Paula Prakapaite Shawn Wilkinson Clarke ART DEPARTMENT Alain Jaimez Fuentes Alex Miller Grace Gibson Jasmine MacPhee Lillie Cooper Mayang Adista Putri
CONTENTS FASHION NEWS 3 What is happening in fashion now? EXPLORING CULTURE 5 We can all see different cultures around us, but what happens when we take a deeper look?
BEST DRESSED MEN 36 Read about where you can find the best-dressed men in London MR MODERNITY 37 A new feminine silhouette for the new urban modern man
MAP OF GAB 8 Find the peculiar words and phrases originating from around Great Britain on the map
REMEMBERING TODAY 45 We look to the past for inspiration but see what we are contributing to future generations
BEST BRITISH BUYS 9 Find out what will be the next generation staple pieces for British fashion
BRITAIN’S DESIRABILITY 47 Find out what is so appealing about British fashion
ANTI STREET STYLE 11 Should we follow fashion? FUTURE ICONS 13 We can’t predict the future, however we can collate a list of who we feel are up and coming STEP INTO COLOUR 15 Dress to impress this summer as colours across the spectrum hit the runway UNISEX BEAUTY 16 Essential winter products for men and women, find the bargain buys
LADY OF LEISURE 49 Take a stroll through city life FASHION WEEK EXTINCTION 55 Has Fashion Week lost its purpose? Read it first hand from the professional WWW DOWN THE LINE 57 How the birth of the Internet opened the floodgates of communication TWIST AND TALES 59 Walking through wonderland and down the yellow brick road, we explore the stories that shaped our British childhood homes
REVOLT OR SOCIAL HALT? 17 DIY 67 In search for anti-establishment, young creatives We look at the ingenious combination of budget goods and unique works of art CONSUMERISM ADDICTION 19 Forget about cigarettes and alcohol, our generation have EXHIBITION REVIEWS 68 got an addiction and it’s shopping A review of ‘Only in England’ & Michael O’Connell: The Lost Modernist AGING GRACEFULLY 22 What happened to aging gracefully? It got old EVENT DIRECTORY 69 Your ultimate guide to what’s on this coming season FAITH IN FASHION 23 Religion and street wear combined to define the new British TAKE THE THRONE 71 Heritage Here is a new royalty emerging, here is your guide to becoming a ruling Icon GENTLEMEN AESTHETIC 33 Will the next generation of men’s fashion encapsulate the JUICEBOX’S MANIFESTO 72 untapped modern man? Our declaration of British rules
TEXT: JESSIE BROOKS ILLUSTRATION: LILLIE COOPER
FASHIONNEWS
Summer is behind us, the festive season is upon us and the new year is on its way and to help you know what’s happening, who to look out for and where to go Jessie Brooks is on hand with the news and her top 5 things to do/watch/visit and read along the way. Cock And Bull is a menswear boutique led by the influences of British tradition. As the UK’s first ever menswear boutique focused solely on sustainable fashion, Cock & Bull really is a one of a kind gem. Housed in one of London’s most exciting streets, the shop displays a selection of original, traditional and extremely wearable pieces that can be bought and trusted as a garment that will last, as well as being a staple piece for any mans wardrobe. Based in the heart of Shoreditch, just a stones throw away from Brick lane, the quaint boutique boasts ethical and sustainable fashion for style conscious men that need a wardrobe they can rely on. With a gentlemanly feel, yet prints that produce a youthful aura, the store is filled with wardrobe must haves and accessories such as the always stylish and ever so British flat-caps. The wood shelving and rustic metal poles holding the islands of the store together, there’s an authentic and earthy feel as soon as you enter the store. The muted colours let the customers eye focus on the products available and simple merchandising techniques also stop the eye from becoming distracted, allowing the customer to embrace the quality and originality before them. Not only is Cock & Bull a home for style, its a place where men can spend and remain guilt free after doing so. Knowing you’re wearing something that is made with genuine care and knowing your money has been wisely spent on something limited edition makes a shopping experience there much THE QUAINT BOUTIQUE BOASTS A SNEAK PEAK OF THE A/W COLLECTION more sought after than that AVAILABLE IN STORE of a high street chain. Cock ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE & Bull offers a range of FASHION FOR STYLE collections are not trend based and will clothes that will not only last therefore be CONSCIOUS MEN THAT NEED A physically but will carry you wearable in seasons to come. The design WARDROBE THEY CAN RELY through seasons too, the team make items that are timeless prints and simple interchangeable from one season to the ON colour palettes mean that the next and as a brand do not believe in
“
MEN’S HAND SEWN TROUSERS LINED WITH A UNIQUE COCK & BULL PRINT
”
wasting clothes. The aim for the brand is to create pieces that their customer will value, be proud to wear and treat as something they are proud to own. To tie in with the traditionally British theme, most items are predominately produced in the UK. The recycled and organic materials are also predominately sourced from within Britain. The team at Cock & Bull are all hands on and are part of every step in the process of creating a collection. Said collections are made in the UK by UK artisans and textiles artists with a huge focus on hand finished items. The store holds a range of original Cock & Bull printed T’s, hand finished shirts, shorts & trousers hand woven tweed caps and much many more items that embrace the theme of British heritage and fashion. For their hard work, and ability to recognise the need for sustainable fashion, Juicebox are naming Cock & Bull the place to be and shop for menswear right now.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN A/W ‘14
The BFC recently announced the new names to be supported by TOPMAN sponsored NEWGEN MEN, at London Collections: men in 2014. NEWGEN gives young designers multiple showcasing opportunities as well as contacts, mentoring and promotion. Swedish brand Common, Ravensbourne’s very own Kit Neale and footwear designer Diego Vanassibara are the 3 new names being supported by NEWGEN this year. 2014 is the year with the highest number of designers being supported by NEWGEN with 10 menswear talents being supported, this will also be the first season that NEWGEN have selected a footwear designer. “Menswear is an unstoppable force in British fashion. Welcoming three new designers to the scheme this season, each of whom bring a very different aesthetic to the NEWGEN MEN line-up, is testament to the strength and diversity of the emerging menswear talent in the industry. With the support from NEWGEN MEN and TOPMAN, these designers have the opportunity and potential to grow their label into incredible British businesses.” - Caroline Rush, CEO of the British Fashion Council.
1
1
2
THE DIRTY SIDE OF GLAMOUR
3
Hannah Williams showcased her graduate collection at GFW this year and her S/S14 collection impressed everyone in sight, including us! Dubbed as a ‘one to watch’ by Amelia’s Magazine, Fashion156 and even Vogue, Hannah in no way failed to disappoint when she walked away from her graduation debut with 2 awards, for both Innovation and Womenswear. Outstanding reviews were to follow Hannah’s success, with praise from The New York Times, Style Bubble and The Independent. Hannah’s style brings something to London that is exciting and imaginative. Her use of unusual fabrics and obscure sculptural silhouettes makes her stand out from the crowd whilst still producing something wearable, thanks to her delicate pastel colour palette. For all of the above reasons, Juicebox magazine too are now naming Hannah Williams as a One To Watch for 2014. Since she has recently revealed that she will be collaborating with one of the biggest retailers in the world we’re more than excited to see what Williams has in store for the year ahead!
3
ONE TO WATCH; FASHION DESIGN
As the king of controversy and the master of capturing shots with some serious shock factor, Tyler Shields is ready to release his first photobook titled ‘The Dirty Side Of Glamour’ after 5 years of shooting some of the biggest names in the celebrity world. Shields says he spent 19 hours picking out the images he thought best display his talent in the book, released just 2 weeks ago. Shields is perhaps the only man on earth that could make the likes of Mischa Barton bite into steaks of raw meat whilst naked and still manage to capture it as a beautiful shot. An equally beautiful outcome arose when Demi Lovato was captured smashing a glass into thousands of tiny shards and when Lindsay Lohan held a gun to her own face. Shields takes raw and honest images that show the celebrity at hand truly letting go. The book has 130 images picked by Shields himself, and as a man that received death threats after one of his shoots saw him setting fire to a handbag worth $100,000 the book is well worth buying, even if only for the fascinating factor.
2 4
BRITISH FASHION AWARDS 2013 ANNOUNCEMENTS
The BFC are back with The British Fashion Awards and a few new details too! To say we’re feeling excited is an understatement. The first look at this years awards was the date release after they announced it would be taking place on December 2nd. The judging panel then took to voting for their winners in September. Every editor, buyer, stylist, blogger and fashion icon you can think of walks the red carpet of the BFA each year and this time around should be no different as Britain’s fashion best gather to celebrate our greatest creative minds. Not only is the BFA a great evening socially, it’s a time to recognise exactly how hard our creative talent are working. Since 1989 we’ve seen awards won by the late Alexander McQueen (British fashion Designer), Alexander Shulman (British Vogue Editor) and hundreds more fashion extraordinaires. If all of the above isn’t enough, the BFC have now unveiled a new award. The ‘International Designer of the Year’ award, focuses on “Recognising a non-British internationally acclaimed, leading designer who has directed the shape of fashion in the past year both in the UK and internationally.
4
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: ZEENAH FAZAL
EXPLORINGCULTURE London is a hive for other cultures, and seems to breed individuality within these to. I took a deeper look into just a few, to see how they are available to everyone and can influence us all.
I had heard the facts, that a third of Londoners are foreign born and 43% of these people are now British Citizens. There are 270 nationalities and 300 different languages. When talking to various friends I learnt about different places I wouldn’t normally think to visit. These places offer a piece of a their culture while still staying within the city that we all love. This makes London one of the most diverse cities in the world, meaning there are a whole host of activities that are available to anyone to take part in. There are often events and mini festivals being held in Trafalgar Square and other iconic locations. The city supports and encourages cultures in general, which allows us all to indulge and emerge in various food and fashion styles, which we wouldn’t necessarily be exposed to even in the actual country of origin. It is the blend with London that makes it all so interesting and unique. You can almost see various cultures in the way people dress; it may be how someone likes clean lines and minimalism, or how someone would be interested in prints and experimenting. There are often reasons behind these simple choices. Its not normally something you would notice if not looking into it, but when you do get deeper, you can see some of what inspires their style. I decided I wanted to explore and emerge myself in these different cultures and see what I could find for myself. I spent the day exploring and travelling, what felt like worlds apart but in fact all I had to do was get the tube around the city!
BOTH WOOLWICH MARKET
LEICESTER SQUARE
CHINA TOWN
First stop China town, I went here in search of Malaysian food, I was told this is where my friend would go to meet her other Malaysian friends. Its’ not typically the place you would think of for Malaysia but there is this whole other side to it. It’s like a whole new world from that just down the street, the area is just as tourist filled as Leicester square, but in some areas I could almost feel like I too was one of the tourists. Everything from the signs on the streets and on the shops are all in different languages and there are so many different foods available, that we wouldn’t find down our normal high street. Looking at people’s styles I can see bright colours, a lot like that of the surroundings. Not something I have really noticed before but the friend that sent me here does wear a lot of block bright coloured clothing, I rarely see her in prints, and this is something I am getting from the people around here to.
CHINA TOWN
ROTHERHITHE
CHINA TOWN
NEWPORT PLACE
Next on my adventure was Rotherhithe, a popular area among the Finnish community. Every Christmas they have a Scandinavian market, selling sweets, handmade crafts and various foods from all over Scandinavia. My friend described it as ‘a mecca for Finnish sweets.’ It goes without saying, my friend visits this place a lot, for such sweets. The area itself doesn’t look anything out of the ordinary, just your average town in London. They just happen to have a Finnish church with a shop, which is probably the attraction for most who visit. The Finnish are very friendly and welcoming people and the atmosphere in the church is very cozy. You can see how their backgrounds affects their style. The traditional knitted sweater is very prominent, colourful wool socks are on everyone’s feet and stripes can be seen everywhere.
CHINA TOWN
JAMAICA
WOOLWICH MARKET
Next stop Jamaica, or at least the parts of Jamaica I could find within London. I found there wasn’t a specific area to visit for Jamaican Culture, but more a combination of a few places. These mainly consisted of restaurants and areas to generally get good authentic Jamaican food. After visiting these places I had noticed a common theme amongst them, the bright colours, and happy, excited natures of the people, which created bubbly exciting atmospheres. The restaurants themselves were very happy places to be, everyone talked to everyone, which made it seem even further away from the London we all know, where no one talks to anyone! You can see the Caribbean influence to their style straight off, everyone is wearing bright colours and loud prints, which can almost make you forget you are in gloomy England with it pouring with rain outside all the time. Its almost as if it is their aim to make you feel a million miles away, in the sunny Caribbean, and they defiantly do it well. Making them worth the visit in the cold harsh winters.
SUN-JAM CAFE, WOOLWICH SUN-JAM CAFE, WOOLWICH
WOOLWICH MARKET
AFRICA
The final culture I explored was that of Africa. This is as huge part of London and although spread around, one key are is that near Bethnal Green Road, this is mainly due to the fact that this where they have The Africa Centre. Here they have various events and festivals on, where everyone is welcome, whether from the same background orSHIRT not. It’s THE DENIM a bright upbeat place, with a lot of bright colours. You can see their history and what they stand for all around, through pictures and posters. You get a real sense theySHIRT are trying THEthat DENIM to help people and promote their culture. I can notice two different styles around me here one is that of prints and DENIM colours, while still looking smart, it is THE clear that SHIRT they like experimenting. Another being neutral earthy tones, in simple silhouettes. Like with all the places I have visited it is only when they come together that you would notice the similarity in THE DENIM SHIRT how they dress, London as a whole does breed individuality and when people have these cultural backgrounds it influences them all differently and when mixed with London it creates some amazing and unique looks.
TEXT: PAIGE CRONIN ILLUSTRATOR: LILLY COOPER
MAPOFGAB Here we take a look at the words and phrases used around the various regions and countries of Britain, some of which are strange and funny, and some just bizarre! The British are known for their sense of humour,wit and sarcasm, and these are sometimes lost on other cultures. Each region has their distinct accents,common phrases and their own lingo, but how well do you really know the Britain? Fernitickles - Are you fernitickled? This is the scottish word for freckles, and comes from the resemblance freckles have to the ticks and dots on fern plants.
Drooth - Much left sonny, an I’ve still a terrible drouth upon me… this Scottish phrase translated means there’s not much drink left and I’m still terribly thirsty!
Wet the tea -The phrase means to make the tea it comes from the practice of wetting tea leaves in the bottom of the pot.
Stop chobblin’ your sweets - If you spent your childhood in Birmingham, you may have heard this regularly from your disgruntled mother when crunching your rhubarb and custards.
Grockle - Is an informal term for a tourist, named after Grockle the dragon from children’s cartoon, Danny and his Grockle. It originated in Dorset when a local used the nickname for a small elderly lady who regularly attended the swimming pool he worked at during the summer. Overtime this became a generalised term for summer visitors.
TEXT: ABBIE NIROOMAND, EMILY VINTER ILLUSTRATOR: MAYANG ADISTA PUTRI
BESTBRITISHBUYS From trench coats to Doc Martens, we Brits know our fashion inside out. We have had our phases, as does everyone, but each year we manage to bring out the best of what we wear and rock it. With fashion moving so quickly, will we need to update our wardrobes with the next big thing? If so, what will they be? Whether it be punk or the classic countryside look, we’ve However, there will be additional aspects added to keep it been there and done it all. Through the years, we have looking fresh. The “boyfriend” look will still be relevant and each selected and cherished particular items that we simply on trend along side with the acid wash effect. Also tying cannot face throwing away. Will the trench coat always be and customising the sleeves, buttons and collar of the shirt the staple piece for Burberry? Will we continue to be tied will be reoccurring over the years, so make sure you don’t down to the fashion that was fashionable 10 years ago or will throw away any denim this year and get creative! we continue to move with the times? We all aspire to be something and look a certain way so it’s important that The leather jacket has been LAKE BLUE AND SOFT around for years, it is an we look the part and keep with the trends. With trends constantly changing we need to know what will replace ORANGE WILL BE THE item you will be able to find the Barbour jackets and Chelsea boots of our time. This is in any store when winter TWO COLOURS TO where the genius WGSN trend forecasting website comes is approaching. However, in. Find out what you’ll need to keep yourself on trend for LOOK OUT FOR this item is likely to soon be the future 10 years. replaced by something quirkier and very versatile. The military bomber jacket is With technology constantly changing and adapting our lives what we are expecting to make a massive hit in stores on a daily basis, it is no surprise that the same occurs when internationally. With a similar cut and shape to the beloved we relate it to the relevance of the fashion industry. With that leather jacket but with low pockets and drawstrings, we come breakthroughs in developing high performance have an American theme slowing growing on us. Luckily, materials that adapt to the change body temperatures and we will never go as far as wear jogging bottoms outside body shapes allowing us to feel comfortable in whatever of the house or gym but we most certainly are going to we wear, whenever we wear it. Biodynamic materials will be embrace the military style and give it that British twist. what will transforms the clothes that we live in everyday in the existing future. This material will be present in leggings, tops, In terms of colour schemes, it is vital we get this right. There coats and sportswear. will not be any crazy colours or neon shades becoming a staple piece (thank god I hear you say), no, instead we Denim has been around are keeping it simple yet sophisticated. Lake blue and soft for as long as any of us orange will be the two colours to look out for. By summer 2014 WILL BE ABOUT can remember and it will 2014 you can expect to see this palette slowing emerging KEEPING IT SIMPLE continue to do so. The in all the high street stores. It is expected to be particularly common material is being BUT SOPHISTICATED popular for accessories and footwear so make sure you used for more and more don’t forget about looking out for them. items. We now have denim jeans, coats, jackets, waistcoats, shirts, shorts and so We have learnt that fashion does change and it is on, but will they all still be fashionable in 10 years time? Jeans important to stay with the trends if you want to continue go without saying, they are the best thing since sliced bread, looking hot to trot. Staple pieces change and evolve, just but what form will the other items become? After some as we do. Make sure you stay up-to-date and get creative serious research, it turns out that the denim shirt is most with what you wear and you will stay looking fabulous for definitely still going to be extremely popular. the next 10 years.
LAKE BLUE
SOFT ORANGE
LOSTYOUTH VSTHE PERFECTGENTLEMAN
THE MILITARY BOMBER JACKET
ARTWORK BY ELLIOT ROSE THE DENIM SHIRT
Get ready to hang up those hats and pack away your thermal layers, Spring will soon be around the corner so be prepared to dig deep into your closets as its going to be out with the old and in with the new. This coming Spring/Summer season is going to be all about embracing your inner child and becoming the perfect gentleman.
SOFT ORANGE ACCESSORIES
The return of your childhood will leave you reminiscing about the good old days, think bright colours, childlike prints and backpacks big enough for the first gameboy. The declaration of youth was common throughout many labels on the catwalk this coming season with Bobby Abley’s models dressed in childlike prints and teddy bears strapped to their backpacks. For the more rebellious child Katie Eary and Matthew Miller both referenced skater chic in their collections using bright oranges, pinks and energetic prints. BIODYNAMIC FABRICS
If teddy bears and skateboards aren’t your style, never fear, for the more sophisticated gentleman in you will delight at Spring’s next big trend. Chivalry isn’t dead and gone are the days of baggy trousers and hooded jackets, its time to cater to the woman in your life and to put those grungy black sneakers back into storage. Tailored suits and dapper accessories will be bang on trend for Spring/Summer 14. Hackett London’s new collection primarily features white, neutral and pastel colored suits accessorized with striped ties, polka dot vests and checked bow ties influence by the work of 1960’s photographer Terry O’Neill, and not forgetting Hackett’s reputation for impeccable headwear, straw boaters were seen on the brands catwalk. For a more modern take on the trend, white lace and floral prints were seen at Alexander McQueen whilst metallic yellow and navy pinstripe accessories were the main focus at E.Tautz.
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: ANASTASIA SENROKA
ANTISTREETSTYLE Do we follow fashion or do we follow each other? Anastasia Senroka searches the streets in order to find out what fashion means to us. Six weeks ago I set myself a task for Juicebox magazine, to go out and find some super british, eccentric street style to follow the theme of heritage and eccentricity for this issue. What I wanted to find out is where street style starts, is it something that we follow fashion for? Do we spend hours watching London Fashion Week coverage, then go out, shop accordingly, and let it be known that we have done our research? Or do we shop accordingly and then add a few original pieces of our own to make it look as though we are ‘accidentally on trend’ and in fact don’t follow fashion? Because in a world where street style blogs are everywhere we look, and so often copied for ‘inspiration’, surely its something thats becoming irrelevant? If street style is copied then surely the lack of individuality of it defeats the idea of it being original. Shouldn’t we all just WHAT I WANTED become anti street style and TO FIND OUT WAS get our fashion mojo back?
WHERE STREET STYLE STARTS
With a million ideas about what street style is, where it comes from and if it is relevant, running around my head, I decided it was time to really take this project on. So I did my research into the S/S14 shows and picked out 3 key re-occurring trends to focus on. Now I knew what I was looking for, I took to the streets of London with a camera in hand in search of the trends- or elements of them- to find out if people really were conforming to what fashion tells them, or whether street style and originality does still exist. With my 3 top trends in mind and Camden Town in my sights, I set off on my adventure and within 10 minutes i’d spotted Alice. A young girl sporting the pastel trend in a skater style dress, teamed with black platform dr.martin boots and thick black eye make up, the uber trendy shop assistant reminded me of a living doll. Pink, punky and pocket sized. When asked to describe her style, Alice said her clothing influences come from 90’s music, hip hop and whatever she see’s is happening in fashion. .
My first find had gone well and I was more than happy with Alice, someone that keeps up to date with fashion and is dressing seasons ahead of the rest whilst putting her own eccentric spin into her look. She gave me faith In the idea that both fashion and individuality play a part in someone’s wardrobe choices, although I couldn’t help but secretly want to find some facts in favour of my anti street style idea I strolled through the streets of what is supposedly one of the trendiest areas of London for hours that day and when 6 hours had passed and only 2 people had stood out with their fashion efforts, I decided to call it a day. When Day 2 of Camden town was no where near as exciting as i’d hoped; it was time re-evaluate my outlook. In spite of the fact that the people I had met on my travels did undoubtedly have eccentricity in their style and their outfits had elements of S/S 2014 trends, when I thoroughly analyzed them I began to realize that these outfits were merely a case of self expression and didn’t intentionally have any connection with trends I had researched. I for one could talk about this subject for hours, but have decided to round up my adventure with just one thought. Street style is a name that we gave to those with individuality, the ability to wear an outfit and make it their own. There is no right and wrong with fashion, so let’s stop copying each other, lets stop mimicking the mannequins and lets embrace the outfits that we’re drawn to and if you happen to be accidently on trend, then, so be it. Consider yourself ahead of the game!
THERES NO RIGHT OR WRONG IN FASHION, SO LETS STOP COPYING EACH OTHER
TEXT: NATALIE CATHERINE BELL.
FUTUREICONS WITH SUCH PROMINENT FIGURES IN BRITISH DESIGN WHO HAVE SHAPED OUR PAST AND OUR PRESENT, WHO WILL BE LEAVING A PROVISION FOR OUR FUTURE, WHOSE NAMES WILL WE BE MENTIONING IN TEN, TWENTY, FIFTY YEARS TIME. In a society which has gained itself the nickname of the “shuffle button generation”, and rightly so, it’s becoming seemingly harder to identify the creators before the ideas. The concept of ‘product over people’ has been pioneered by our never ending need for consumption, we have an underlying desire within all of us to buy ‘stuff’. The overwhelming prevalence of our product devouring ways is initiating an ignorance in our appreciation for the creators, the innovators, the protagonists in design; something that in previous decades we have had a stronger value for. Generations before us have left a legacy and catalogue of iconic figures within the creative industries that we recognise for their works of design; Alexander McQueen, David Downton, Peter Saville, David Chipperfield, Vivienne Westwood, the list is endless. But who is going to lead on this legacy, and challenge the means of convention and innovation that we see today. Think of this as a go-to guide of who to watch, who is being talked about and who we feel is a ‘Future Icon’. ABBEY WATKINS
LUCIA O’CONNOR-MCCARTHY
Graduating with first class honours two years ago in Textile Design for Fashion from Manchester Metropolitan, British illustrator and print designer Abbey Watkins creates exquisitely intricate and beautiful fashion illustrations. Using a combination of pencil drawings and digital colouring, Watkins constructs multifaceted mutilated depictions primarily of the female form that draw on themes of mythology and the surreal. Her quintessentially archetypal figures encapsulated in kaleidoscopic labrythine prints, she says are ‘a fight between the conscious and subconscious’, a prominent manifestation within her portfolio of work. Seemingly her aptitude for creating the ethereal is yet to go unnoticed by the industry, with collaborations with the likes of The Kooples, Nike and Nylon already under her belt, we are sure to see bigger things in years to come from the spirited illustrator.
Freelance fashion photographer and all over cool gal, Lucia O’Connor-McCarthy, graduated with a degree in Philosophy from her native home in Ireland, and stumbled upon the world of photography as if by chance. Her heavily saturated images that are bold in colour and have an extreme richness to them, alights a new direction in fashion photography. The 24 year old professes to her love of story telling through her imagery, in creating a narrative in order to entice the viewer in. Since her initial appearance for Rankin’s ‘The Hunger’, Lucia’s career has snowballed and shows no sign of slowing down; from shooting editorials for Reiss, numerous portraits from the likes of Millie Mackintosh to Shingai Shoniwa and numerous spreads for The Hunger, Lurve and Material Girl, this blonde bombshell is sure to be one to keep your eye on.
UNTITLED, FOR SOMEDAYS LOVIN
BRIGHTON BABE FOR BALLET OF MAGAZINE
PHOEBE ENGLISH
ALMA-NAC
Central St Martins BA & MA graduate, Phoebe English has been challenging the conventions of design and garment construction since the attention grabbing debut of her graduate collection in 2011, featuring layers of black hair and weaved rubber. The London based designer hails ‘forgotten and little-used techniques’, as a key aspect of her design process. The uninhibited construction and use of handcrafted engineered surfaces are a testament to her conceptual and transitional aesthetic. With a whole host of awards already in firm grasp; including the L’Oreal Professional Creative Award, and fashion mecca Dover Street Market stocking the young designers label, English has been taking the industry slowly and surely by storm for the past three years and is set to remain on an upward ascent.
Alma-nac is a collaborative Architecture practice formed in 2009, by Bartlett graduates Chris Bryant, Caspar Rodgers and Tristan Wigfall. Despite only being in practice for 4 years, the London based studio are an RIBA chartered practice, with a vastly expanding portfolio of work. With a contemporary and largely minimalist design approach, that is pragmatic and takes great consideration to vernaculars and sustainability, their unique attention to detail is prevalent throughout all of their projects from micro to macro scale designs. Alma-nac also engage in activities outside of the office, from curating educational introductions to architecture in schools all around London to creating a new scheme which they refer to as ‘free architecture’. Which involves the trio setting up market and offering their architectural services for free, with the intention of providing architectural solutions for the everyman (or woman). The practise isn’t showing any signs slowing down anytime soon, with numerous projects underway and no doubt more in the skyline
SLIM HOUSE, CLAPHAM
MOROGOGO INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, TANZANIA
CHARLIE PATTERSON Having recently graduated from Chelsea College of Art & Design in Graphic Design Communication, Patterson’s work owes itself to various platforms such as; product innovation, art direction and graphic design. With Adidas, Southbank Centre and Virgin Media amongst his most recent collaborations, providing solid groundwork for a portfolio of dream clientele. However, it is Patterson’s work for the recent YCN’s Lego brief which showcases his playful and imaginative design aesthetic, in creating jocular and innovative print campaigns. Since leaving Chelsea, Patterson has since formed multi-disciplinary design studio ‘Opposite’ alongside fellow graduate Johnny Holmes as a platform to work across both graphic design and art direction.
YCN-LEGO CAMPAIGN
GENTLETUDE-SPORTS OF KINDNESS
TEXT: GEMMA ELLIOT AND STEPHANIE ABOAGYE PHOTOGRAPHY: SAM BATE
STEPINTOCOLOUR A/W13 is well underway, and this is the time where we really start compiling our shopping list, for those cold days ahead! Designers this season has taken a modern twist on the traditional colour trends for A/W2013. They have mixed colours such as green, which is a huge colour for this season, and added various different tones to it. Emerald green, linden green; which is a more yellow-based green and deep lichen green, which is a more nature inspired colour. All these tones have been a huge influence on the catwalk. Moving away from green and onto the deeper colours like blue and purple that also dominates the runway, these colours give us a colder icier feel. Combined with warm and pale tones and pastels, designers have used the mixture of these colours for confident women who want to revamp their winter wardrobe. Rich colours like red add a real spiciness and fieriness, as well as orange another tone, which shows the beautiful glow of the autumn. These colours can defiantly make a statement this season. RED:
JET BLACK:
Black may set a classic look to your wardrobe but can be used as a standard tone for every season. Black tones can create a small but very dynamic contract with any statement piece. Across the fashion platform designers have created many effective collections within the black tones originally collaborating with many different bold colours.
CHOCOLATE BROWN:
Indulge this winter in chocolate tones colours, these rich glamorous brown tones will transform your look as an alternative to black. It’s definitely a tone that could be used during the colder months as we delve deep into the new year. Setting up a whole new look for you these brown tones will generate a whole new side to your personality, creating zestfulness to your boudoir.
A colour for this season that adds drama to any outfit. The brightness of the colour adds richness’, warmth and is the colour of passion. High street shops like Topshop and River Island have all taken up the red colour trend and manipulated the colour to give two different tones from light to dark. The lightest tone being a fiery red sets a foundation colour and makes a statement with the boldness and the brightness of it in contrast to the darker tone of red, will instantly change your mood bringing out the more romantic and wild side. Invest in a colour that empowers and oozes confidence within you
BURGUNDY:
AZURE BLUE:
Blue is the key colour of the season, being predicted to last right through to until 2015. Buy into the blue and buy a statement piece that will last. With cold mornings and even darker nights here to stay, wrap up warm with polo neck sweaters seen at Etro and Canali and crew neck sweats at Prada. If subtlety is your thing and you’re not ready to commit then head on down to Topman for their simple chinos and skinny fit jeans or American Apparel for their beanies. Remember blue is here to stay so whatever you purchase it can always be seen as an investment, even if it is that slim fit Lanvin shirt or the linen Paul Smith Blazer.
SLATE GERY:
Grey is the new black. 50 shades of grey are taken quite literally this winter as designers across the runways vamp up the dull colour. Keeping it simple with lean tailored suits and slim coats at Dior Homme whilst button up cardigans were all over the Missoni and Nicole Farhi catwalks. If you’re looking for the perfect blazer or a smart suit for that NYE party you’ve been looking forward too, then get yourselves to Topman, Hentsch Man and Sartorial Rossi for some seriously chic tailoring.
Winter is here and its time to get festive. Red is forever associated with Christmas, from giftwrap and stockings to tinsel and red noses. It’s all about dark reds and muted tones this autumn as Burgundy is seen all over the runway. Maison Martin Margiela sent models down the runway in full block colour whilst crew neck sweaters were seen at Hermes and Louis Vuitton. Get festive and get shopping as H&M and The Kooples have plenty in store for you whether it’s a chic blazer or skinny fit trousers.
TEXT: ABBIE NIROOMAND ILLUSTRATOR: MAYANG ADISTA PUTRI
UNISEXBEAUTY With temperatures dropping and winds blowing, we are all feeling the effects of this harsh weather on our skin, hair and lips. That’s why here at Juicebox we are going to give you the best tips to keep you glowing all through the winter season. First things first, all of these products are unisex so all you well groomed men out there, listen up. Just because the winter season is approaching does not mean we have to put up with frizzy hair or chapped lips. We have selected the very best of the best at affordable prices to keep you looking your best this winter. So get your bankcards ready, as these products will change your life forever. COCOA BUTTER FORMULA
JACK BLACK INTENSE THERAPY LIP BALM
As we all like to have super smooth, kissable lips, Jack Black lip balm is completely natural and colour-free. Although this line is originally for men, it is mint scented and helps women achieve that silky effect that have extremely dry lips. Due to its natural mint Shea butter it really is an essential for this winter season.
This cocoa butter body lotion is my absolute favourite as it miraculously changes the way your skin feels almost instantly. You can feel it sinking in as it is just the right thickness as you lather it on. This formula also really helps with reducing stretch marks, but the real bonus is that its fragrance free so you never have to worry about it mixing with your perfume or aftershave.
£3.75 - Superdrug
MOROCCAN OIL
Moroccan Oil, or otherwise known as “miracle oil,” is one of those rare products that are so versatile you’ll find yourself carrying it with you everywhere you go. Men and women alike use this magical oil for hair treatment, moisturiser, stretch marks and even helps reduce the appearances of spots - an all rounder product!
£13.34 – www.feelunique.com
£7.25 - Boots
CK ONE
Calvin Klein was one of the first to release this unisex fragrance in 1994. It was a huge hit and continues to be so. If you are looking for a citrus floral and herbaceous scent this is ideal for you this winter. With extracts of lemon, mandarin and refreshing tones of bergamot it will have both sexes falling for each other under the mistletoe.
£18.50 - The Perfume Shop
JOEY HEALY ELITE SCULPTING TWEEZERS
It doesn’t matter what you’re grooming preferences are, most people will agree that a uni-brow is a no-no. However, it isn’t very often you can find tweezers with a strong design and good grip. Luckily, for us we have found Joey Healy sculpting tweezers to give both men and women that perfect brow. Whether it be neat clean or a handsome rugged look, you can design your ideal brow.
£20 - www.joeyhealy.com
TEXT: ALISA MILCHEVSKAYA
REVOLTORSOCIALHALT IN THE LAST HALF A CENTURY, BRITISH CULTURE HAS BEEN GALVANISED BY THE ANTI-ESTABLISHMENT YOUTH REBELLION MOVEMENTS. ALISA MILCHEVSKAYA SETS OUT TO FIND WHETHER ANY OF THEM STILL REMAIN TO THIS DAY AND WHAT THEY STAND FOR IN THE CURRENT ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL CLIMATE. The mod teddy boy’s greasing up the skinhead starting on the flower power hippy trying to keep up with the acid house raver stealing Mcat from the street corner chav about to knife the punk who just accidentally sprayed him with his canister too distracted looking at the skater’s sick flow through the graffitied street aligned with posing pissed off hipsters. All mass underground movements. All fiery individuals alight a passion for change, to have a voice, an opportunity. To rebel. Throughout the last decades what made Britain so British was the anti-establishment stance of it’s youth. The teenage rebel has been a central part of culture and has dictated, given birth to and pushed creativity and eventually the mass market. But where are they today? I set out in search for individuals who stand for their intrepid view of the world and against the social and political hierarchy. NEON HOUSE M&C Saatchi recently asked Neon House, Daero Ra and Adrian Law to create an installation for the House of Peroni and the outcome was a new-age DJ booth which opened the door to a neoteric form of interaction between the DJ and his audience. The booth was home to resident DJ Alessio Natalizia who threw his beats out from within the steel cube frame wrapped by two kilometres of fluorescent nylon string. The neon glow of the string rocketed the booth into a ‘space-age’ feel, coinciding with it’s futuristic, innovative concept which combines sound and movement into one. The structure is reminiscent of modern pop-up, open-space architecture which encourages interaction by reducing walls and boundaries and bestowing the visitor with power to control their environment. The relationship between the DJ and his audience has grown and developed from the all-night dance parties to Jack Your Body and Strings of Life to the M25 congregations where ravers took over and blasted their electronic sounds over quiet suburban towns and to today’s dark, undiscerning underground maze that is Fabric where the location of the tap water man is the only thing anyone’s really sure of. Music for the DJ is a tool to converse with his audience, to set the mood and to provoke a reaction which usually materialises itself in uncontrolled shuffling and arm-jerking. However, the booth in question lets the listener touch the outside strings which in effect create a melody, playing alongside that of the DJ. Is this be the future of clubbing? Will we soon be the ones dictating the music through our own movement and feelings rather than the other way around? I spoke to the duo behind the installation to find out. CECILIA MARI | ILLUSTRATOR ‘Many people are saying my work looks feminist’ ‘blurts out the London-adopted Italian illustrator in her native animated fashion. Who could’ve expected a boisterous voice of that magnitude to fit into such a slight frame, ‘most of my subjects are women - I wouldn’t consider myself a feminist. My work is a statement of my personality. I link my creative process to personal satisfaction, creating something that I consider beautiful.’ Certainly she must be satisfied with the spirited collages that appear to reminisce old film stills, renovated by those of current news reports - all intertwined into a moving story which converses a poetic portrayal of the mundane subject of politics. The move to England two years ago broadened her consciousness of the impact of social establishment, which
materialises within most of her pieces: ‘I like my work to be engaged in the surrounding political and social scenes’. Ceci, as she likes to be called, bellowed her gallant take on the subject loud enough to be heard and duly featured by the ICP magazine which tracks current developments within global international relations. The harsh reality of the political impact in Britain today is impossible to ignore and Cecilia’s take is that ‘most of the conservatives’ choices don’t mean a positive change for the nation - they are aggravating the social gap between the working and the ruling classes, making the price of life generally higher.’ The hierarchy of politics and the adverse consequences ignite her creative drive. ‘The political scenery is not so much about left or right. It’s much more about the effectiveness of the political choices and it’s closeness to people. If everyone had a critical consciousness
of what is happening around us then maybe they’d take care of the choices that create damage to the world we live in.’ She herself crusaded to raise the said consciousness by joining in protests against cuts to education funding and impelled the public to take action, after all ‘loud tone and Italian accent can be a winning combination.’ ‘All these issues are connected and derived from individual choices so to change the world from the basis, I’d change the system of information that we have in order to defeat the general ignorance diffused in society.’ - let’s hope that the future will be as rosy as David Cameron’s soon-to-be blushing cheeks. I LIKE MY WORK TO BE ENGAGED IN THE SURROUNDING POLITICAL AND SOCIAL SCENE
GEZI PARK
FAMILY PORTRAIT
PANOS ANTONOPOLUS/ ARTIST London-based artist Panos Antonopoulos is no ordinary Greek. Rising from the ashes of the ongoing 6 year-long economic downturn in his home country, he walks amongst the dampening spirits of the nation, using his paint brush as a weapon to call out the lack of hope and opportunities. Yet along the way he came to believe the ridiculous, egocentric hierarchy of politics is as much to blame as the idleness of the people themselves. A VERY SIMPLE ARTWORK CAN BE MUCH MORE POWERFUL THAN A COMPLEX ONE At first trained as an engineer, he felt tied down by the monotony of the work. Deciding on an art pathway came naturally as he began to disentangle from the net of his past and finally found an outlet for his vibrant views. ‘I started to experiment myself to find something that can satisfy my ego and apparently I found it through art.’ Moving to London again in 2013 (he has been in and out of the city for a few years) alternated his view on the modern social establishment ‘London has influenced my view on society in issues like consumerism and a completely uncontrollable financial situation in terms of products and services, under the umbrella of
SUPER-HUMAN
liberalism.’ Each one of his artworks is a unique rendition of the governing cartel’s callous greed. All bold and contrasting for he proclaims ‘everything can be an inspiration. A political event, a poster on the street or another artist. Each work is a different concept, expressed in a different way’. He cites Marcel Duchamp as an inspiration and ‘a rebellion of modern art’. Yet Panos himself takes on a defiant stance within today’s art sphere, counteracting the bland mainstream mentality: ‘art has become quite commercial during the last decades, which was the initial inspiration for my painting’ he speaks of ‘What Is Contemporary Art?’ which questions the infinite translations of art’s ambiguous creations and the materialism which has dimmed some of his contemporaries’ fiery imagination. ‘A very simple artwork can be much more powerful than a complex one. A lot of new elements entered the art game, like technology and art is transforming. Real contemporary art has to do more with the concept and less with the technique. If I start creating art similar to Monet’s landscapes or Picasso’s cubist paintings in 2013, then I have nothing to offer to the art scene. Those guys did that 100 years ago. It can only satisfy people who just want to put something nice on their walls.’ ‘I believe that we should be able to challenge and criticise everything that is
EXPERIMENT IN BERLIN
THREE MINUTE KISS
OLD YOUTH
against us.’ ‘The Ego and His Own’ fabricates this notion by raising the individual ‘above the religion, country, family or any kind of society’. Unsurprisingly, the rough and dishonest civic climate both in his home country and the world galvanises his inspiration. Yet it’s the individuals’ reactions to these which inhabit the narrative of most pieces: ‘I believe that the problem is not primarily financial but cultural. It is the general way of thinking. It is very easy to blame anyone but ourselves. I think that Greece is a fucked up situation, mainly because the majority of people are not willing to take any responsibility for anything and this is why parties like the Golden Dawn or Independent Greeks have such voting percentages.’ I THINK THAT GREECE IS A FUCKED UP SITUATION However recently Greece began to take baby steps in a promising direction by absorbing the EU structural funds and generating neoteric schemes to rebuild it’s economy brick by fractured brick, ‘there is some hope, mainly from young people who are not so ‘’polluted’’ like the previous generations and they need to get far away from that.’ Panos’ art is as frank, loud and liberal as the energy of the youth today, shouting out for us to take initiative and stand up for our rights and against ‘the culture of fear’.
THE EGO AND HIS OWN
WHAT IS CONTEMPORARY ART?
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: ELLIOT ROSE
CONSUMERISMADDICTION It’s time to think about how we can stop ourselves from shopping our way into oblivion. With ever more people, ever fewer resources and a compulsive need to shop, our addiction to consumerism is hurting more than ourselves
Our generation has a lot of addictions. Raise a hand if you’ve heard a friend say ‘I’m totally addicted to Starbucks!’ or completely without irony, ‘my shopping addiction is way out of hand! Lol!’ Aside from an addiction to overuse of the word itself, it seems the only real problem we have is an unfaltering, debilitating dependence on buying stuff we don’t need. Assuming you are a person who’s between sixteen and twenty six, who grew up in Western Europe or North America during the 1990’s and 2000’s (which if you’re reading this magazine, you most likely are), you’re very lucky indeed. Titled by many as Generation Y, the successors to our parents Generation X and our Baby Boomer grandparents, but referred to as millennial and Generation D by others, we’ve been very lucky. From the mid 1990’s through to the late 2000’s recession that we all remember so fondly, the UK economy grew, unemployment fell and borrowing money was oh so simple. Not to get weighed down in figures, but when government types appear on television, celebrating that the economy grew by 0.1% this year and that it’s a Christmas miracle, well the economy grew every year between 1991 and 2008. Which was a very good thing. Similarly, during our very cushy childhoods, the famine and war that struck much of the world wasn’t around in the suburbs of Western Europe. There was never a malaria outbreak in the Home Counties. The residents of Ile-de-France weren’t troubled by guerrilla warfare. Madrid’s commuter belt didn’t experience a devastating tsunami. We’ve had an easy life, and with the lack of hardship and increase in our (parent)’s disposable income/increased credit card limits meant that we’ve become accustomed to being able to have more than any generation before us. We truly grew up in a time of excess. Because as time went on, very American ideas of consumption and branding drifted across the globalised world. Like the gulf stream, if the gulf stream carried Toys ‘R’ Us franchises and overpriced coffee chains over the Atlantic. A new business model emerged where companies didn’t actually make anything, but instead spent all their time designing and marketing their products, ‘creating brands’ rather than manufacturing goods. As we well know now, companies like Nike and Apple instead like to pass on the unsexy, dirty task of actually making their stuff to people in countries most of their customer’s can’t place on a map, paying their workers 12p a day to do so. And it’s been going on for all of our lives. Yes, it’s evil and shady and quite wrong, but this is obviously why the power-brands of our time have been able to sell their products and services at such a low price that we can consume them near constantly. Imagine if the price of cocaine dropped to a level where it was affordable to be high all day and all night.
With the financial barriers lowered, sooner or later a great deal of people could be addicted. And with the power of so many consumers, the producers could easily suppress knowledge of the negative effects their product has both on its users, and the people who make it, and even advertise it’s perceived benefits. Now imagine that it’s not coke, but it’s £10 self -assembly wardrobes, £5 pairs of shoes or 99p cheeseburgers and you really don’t have to imagine at all. We are all addicts. Much like actual drugs addicts, we consumerism addicts will deny our problem and happily ignore the damage it’s doing to us and others. I say ‘we’ and ‘us’, because I’m no different. Last night I bought three pairs of Nikes on eBay for reasons I couldn’t rationally explain. But then again, when everyone’s all suffering from the same substance abuse problem, there’s a world full of people who will happily empathise with your latest binge.
“
AMERICAN IDEAS OF CONSUMPTION AND BRANDING DRIFTED ACROSS THE GLOBALISED WORLD. LIKE THE GULF STREAM, IF THE GULF STREAM CARRIED TOYS ‘R’ US FRANCHISES AND OVERPRICED COFFEE CHAINS OVER THE ATLANTIC.
”
Because of course, much like how smokers are told many times a day how dangerous a habit it is, we regularly have the bitter truth nagged at us. The campaigners who see what’s really happening will write article after book, make film after TV special about what a bad position we’re putting ourselves in. And the educated ones of us will probably listen, and will shake our heads and say ‘how terrible’. We may boycott that coffee franchise that doesn’t pay its tax or avoid that high street retailer after a TV exposé on sweatshop labour, but when push comes to shove, it’s pretty impossible to avoid the malevolent superbrand. Either because we’re hooked, or because they are so pervasively unavoidable. The problems they cause are as well publicised as they are ignored. In the same way that the Western world’s taste for the occasional dabble in party drugs has a devastating effect on communities and people in countries many of us have never heard of, our thing for consumerism
does damage in a similar way. Like how a drug baron will bully the little people into poverty and keep the profit all to himself, big brands are doing the same. To keep the stock price up, the companies we shop from ignore the bitter irony of a child in the third world sewing together the school uniform for a child the same age in the first. Even if the workers involved in the making of products and growing of cheap food were paid fairly, and their countries’ economic growth not stunted at the expense of our taste for the cheap and cheerful, we’re all still pretty screwed anyway. For example, if everybody lived like an American, there would be a lot of problems. Aside from every other person carrying a handgun and never being able to find decent cheese, we’d also need the land and resources of four earths to keep us going. If we all lived like the French, we’d need two and a half. If we all lived like the people of the United Arab Emirates, we’d need five and a half. At any rate, we’d need a lot more earths than we actually have to keep going. This is part of the reason why the ‘little people’ on the other side of the planet are exploited. It’s not just because they can keep us in inexpensive beef and jumpers, it’s because if they all lived like us there wouldn’t be enough food for everyone. We’d all be middle class kids, addicted to our little luxuries. We’d all want it all. And who would make it all? If the whole planet demands a living wage, then there’s nobody who the west can pay £8 a month to grow cocoa beans and cotton plants and the consumer economy collapses. Bummer. So the pretty shameful status quo we have at the moment stops us running into a pretty epic catastrophe for everyone. While the situation is unacceptable in so many ways, a lot of people will argue somebody being paid £1 a week is better than someone having no job at all. This seems to be the argument a lot people will use to excuse the metaphorical lines of consumerism they’ve been snorting. Well put down the credit card and listen, because the traditional tables are starting to turn. I’m sure we can all
remember since we were children the stamp of ‘Made in [insert faraway poor county here]’ being on the bottom of everything. Whether it’s a Made in China Mattel something in 1996 or a Made in India Primark something in 2006, this may not be the case forever as these countries get richer and richer. The middle classes in countries like China, India and Brazil are expanding faster than an American’s waistline on Thanksgiving. Within a couple of decades, the amount of people in each of these nations’ middle income brackets will surpass anything Europe and North America have ever seen. Right at this moment, China has just become the biggest market for luxury goods in the world, and western possessions and pastimes are the ultimate expression of wealth. With this comes aspiration to drive a BMW, remake your home to look like an Ikea catalogue, and eat more meat than a Texas ranger. In fact, environmentalists are saying over and over than the increased levels of beef consumption in countries now eating a more western diet will lead to serious economic doom and gloom. Apparently if the BRIC economies keep it up with the Big Macs, we’ll have to consider eating insect protein by 2030. It’s not only a skyward rate of consumerism addicts in the developing world that are going to send us shopping ourselves into an early grave, it’s the terminal increase in population. By the time most of us are about sixty in 2050, the world’s population will be 9.7 billion, which makes current estimates of 7 billion look like a drop in the overpopulation ocean. That’ll be 9.7 billion people all wanting food, shelter, medicine, water and a source of income. And while it is developing countries that will bear the brunt of the growth, we in the UK won’t get off easy either. The demand for resources will hit us hardest, as scientists and population analysts estimate that the resources that Britain has naturally can provide for 15 million maximum. With our national population hitting 70 million(ish) by the late 30’s, our issue is symptomatic of what’s happening worldwide.
“
TO KEEP THE STOCK PRICE UP, THE COMPANIES WE SHOP FROM IGNORE THE BITTER IRONY OF A CHILD IN THE THIRD WORLD SEWING TOGETHER THE SCHOOL UNIFORM FOR A CHILD THE SAME AGE IN THE FIRST.
”
It’s hard to see how we might decrease our dependency on the consumerism drug. It’s not like there’s rehab for a bad H&M habit, and it’s not like we can put the entire population of Europe and North America in there. The problem is, that the economic good weather that got us hooked on buying stuff as children has left us appalled at the thought of ever going back to leaner times. For the economy to grow, more goods and services need to be bought. Governments want economies to grow and are very happy when they do, hence the smug grin on Tony Blair’s face for most of the last decade. Hence, they are more than happy to let us keep on exploiting the third world and keep being conned into spending our money on crap we just do not need. The problem with human nature is that greed is inherent. We are always wanting more. We want the country to be richer, us to be richer, our lives to improve, our surrounds more comfortable and our food more plentiful. A step in the opposite direction seems wrong, somehow. The only thing thinkable that reverses this trend that I can think of is our technology. In the 21st century, less can do more. Think of everything that your iPhone has replaced: an address book, a calculator, an MP3 player, a camera, a camcorder, a notebook, a map, an alarm clock. The list is pretty endless. Obviously you might still have a camera as well as a phone, but the idea of having one advanced, multifunctional thing to replace fifteen smaller, crappier things might be what eases us away from the insane overconsumption we suffer from. Technologies like the smartphone may be just the nicotine patch our shopping-addict generation needs. This idea is spreading through technological circles, and in a way is seen to be spreading to the world of fashion. For those with good fashion taste, the days of blowing £200 on a trip to Primark on crap you’ll wear once seem to be subsiding. For those in the know, less is more is the new mantra.
People who can afford to are now seeing through the high street’s constant tirade of ‘pile them high, sell them cheap’, and are stretching the budgets to buy fewer, more expensive, better qualities items. It’s how Vivienne Westwood, one woman environmental crusader, has rationalised her business in the face of hypocrisy claims. And she’s right: it’s better for you, your wardrobe and the planet if you stick to classic staple pieces. The retail sector is seeing this mantra hold true, with the two most profitable areas of fashion being economy and luxury, with big business premium labels like Burberry and Michael Kors setting the business papers alight with record profits. Who said saving the world couldn’t be chic? There are many who say that we should be able to eschew this principle and continue our addiction unstopped, and rely on recycling to clear up our mess for us. Although recycling techniques are more advanced than ever, the fact remains that we still need to use energy to turn waste into something useful. Old diet coke cans don’t just magically transform into car bodywork, it’s a energy-hungry industrial process that does as much harm as good. Technologies like the smartphone may be just the nicotine patch our shopping-addict generation needs. To reuse and recycle can help ease the pain, but the only true way to avoid shopping ourselves into oblivion is to embrace the future. The old motto of ‘less is more’ has never seemed so relevant. HERE’S SOME NOT SO FUN FACTS ABOUT THE CONSUMERISM DISASTER THAT’S COMING AT US FASTER THAN A SPEEDING BMW: - In 1900, a total of $1.5 trillion was spent by public and private consumers. By 1975 it was estimated at $12 trillion. By 1998 it doubled to $24 trillion. It continues to grow rapidly. - 20% of the world’s people living in rich countries account for 86% of total global consumer spending. - The US and Canada, with 5.2% of the world’s population, are responsible for 31.5% of consumption. South Asia, with 22.4% of the population, is responsible for 2% of consumption. - The average African household today consumes 25% less than 25 years ago.1 In 2005, China used 26% of the world’s steel, 32% of rice, and 47% of cement.
TEXT: ELLIOT ROSE ILLUSTRATION: MAYANG ADISTA PUTRI
AGINGGRACEFULLY
Whatever happened to ageing gracefully? It got old. As the digital youth start to approach thirty, Elliot Rose considers what girls and boys with tattoos and septum piercings will look like as pensioners. For years, we’ve seen our parents fight the ageing process. Being dragged to Debenhams as a child with your mother, seething with boredom as she perused the lacklustre beauty hall for the latest anti-wrinkle miracle on a suburban budget is a painful childhood memory for many of us. If you had a father like mine, you may also remember the mid life crises of strict diet and authoritarian exercise regime. Nobody should have to see their father in bike shorts. Nobody. This begs the question, how will our generation battle getting old? Arguably, the technology that could save us from being wrinkled messes is on another level to what was available even 15 years ago. One the one end there’s the Boots ‘£10 miracle’ anti-ageing cream that has women everywhere clawing each others gently sagging eyelids off to get at, and at the other end there’s the likes of Creme de la Mer and that stuff that contains real particles of gold. A friend of mine recently blew a large chunk of student loan on the magic gold cream and says it’s “the best possible thing you could buy with money you don’t have”. Can’t argue with those rave reviews. Whilst the scientifically backed elixirs that may be our saviour are advanced enough to keep Madonna looking south of forty, surely the factors dragging us towards an unattractive end are getting worse? Who knows what WHO KNOWS WHAT EFFECT effect litres of Diet Coke or the occasional hair-bleach will have LITRES OF DIET COKE OR THE on our health? It’s an untested OCCASIONAL HAIR-BLEACH hair and beauty disaster waiting to happen. And even worse: our WILL HAVE ON OUR HEALTH? current obsession with tattoos and IT’S AN UNTESTED HAIR AND piercings really won’t translate to a good look in 2050. Imagine BEAUTY DISASTER WAITING TO the dormant holes from snake HAPPEN. bites punctuating a wrinkled chin. Once cool, but now faded Chinese lettering on a sagging cankle. It’s a grim image. But it’s possible that we will reject the notion of growing old altogether. We’re the generation that’s never known much major hardship: we didn’t grow up during a war, through a major recession, disease epidemic or the rise of the Kardashians. It’s been fairly easy for Generation Y, with the broad majority of us living in a time where our parents grew richer and life became easier, being told ‘no’ arguably less than generations before us. Can I have a happy meal? Yes. Can I have a phone contract? Yes. Can I have a state subsidised university education? Yes. After years of relatively plain sailing, will we simply accept the inevitability of being old, or will we kick up a tantrum in the style of a seven year old in the cereal aisle. Maybe we will be dip-dying in a blue rinse and be buying our zimmer frames from Urban Outfitters, or maybe slowly turning into our parents is inevitable, but at least one thing’s for sure: we’ll definitely be less racist than current old people, and that’s the happy truth to hold onto.
“
”
FAITHIN FASHION DISCOVERING HOW RELIGION CAN BE UNIFIED WITH FASHION IN A MODERN BRITAIN. STREET MEETING RELIGIOUS CODE AND FORMING A NEW IDENTITY, A NEW HERITAGE.
PHOTOGRAPHY: NICOLE PATRICE STLYING: NATHAN HENRY & REBECCA LIGHTBODY PRODUCER: PAULINA PRAKAPAITE DESIGNER: GRACE GIBSON
BUDDHISM: JACKET – ROKIT VINTAGE,BOTTOMS – ZARA, SHOES – FILA, ISLAM: TOP – TEETH, BOTTOM – THAWB STYLISTS OWN, LONG JOHNS, STYLIST OWN, SHOES - FILA, HINDUISM: HAT – ZARA, TOP – FOOTLOCKER, BOTTOMS – STYLIST’S OWN, SHOES – NIKE, ACCESSORIES – STYLIST’S OWN, CHRISTIANITY: TOP – H&M, BOTTOM – FOREVER 21, SOCKS – PRINGLE, SHOES – DIADORA, JEWISH: TOP – ZARA, DUNGAREES – TOPSHOP, SOCKS – PRINGLE , ACCESSORIES – STYLIST’S OWN
TOP – ADDIAS, JUMPER STYLIST’S OWN BOTTOM– ADDIDAS, LONG JOHNS STYLIST’S OWN, ACCESSORIES – VINTAGE, SHOES – FILA
TOP – LONDIS, JACKET – ROKIT VINTAGE, SKIRT – MISGUIDED, SCARF – STYLIST’S OWN , SHOES – NIKE
BUDDHISM: TOP – AGI & SAM FOR TOPMAN, JUMBER – UMBRO , BOTTOMS – ADDIDAS, SHOES – FILA ISLAM: TOP – AGI & SAM FOR TOPMAN, BOTTOMS – SUPPLY AND DEMAND, SOCKS – PYREX, SHOES – FILA
TOP, BRALET – ADDIADS, SHIRT - H&M, BOTTOM – H&M SKIRT, EARINGS – STYLIST’S OWN DIADORA
TOP – TOPMAN, BOTTOM – THAWB, STYLISTS OWN, LONG JOHN STYLIST OWN, HAT – STYLIST’S HAT
CHRISTIANITY: TOP – ROSE BLAIR, STYLIST’S OWN, BOTTOMS – H&M, SHOES DIADORA, EAR RINGS – STYLISTS OWN, HINDUISM: TOP – ROSE BLAIR, BOTTOMS – SUPPLY AND DEMAND, SHOES – NIKE, ACCESSORIES – STYLIST’S OWN
ISLAM : TOP – ADDIDAS, BOTTOM – THAWB STYLISTS OWN, LONG JOHN STYLIST OWN, SHOES – FILA, JEWISH: DRESS – ROSE BLAIR, JACKET – ROKIT VINTAGE, SHOES – DIADORA
CHRISTIANITY: JACKET – ROKIT VINTAGE, TOP – FOREVER 21, BOTTOMS – H&M, ACCESSORIES – STYLISTS OWN
MODELS: ISHIKA, MARIKA, ALESSANDRO, J ULIJA, MATTIAS HAIR & MAKE-UP: JADE LDC, NEEZA RAHIM, HYEBIN LEE, SUNYOUNG HA
TEXT: HOLLY KNOWLES. PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW ANDERSON & JESSICA CALDERWOOD
GENTLEMANAESTHETIC WHAT DOES THE POWER SUIT REALLY MEAN TO THE UNTAPPED MODERN MAN OF TODAYS GENERATION? HOLLY KNOWLES DELVES INTO OUR GENTLEMAN’S GENERATION. Deploying a gentlemanly look may have been a thing of the past five years ago but this is not to say that it is an understated industry. Designers on Savile Row are never outrightly disturbed by the recession, the custom merely shifts from business to business and that in itself shows the aptitude of the tailoring industry. Perhaps the next generation of mens fashion will encapsulate the untapped modern man. the last decades what made Britain so British was the anti-establishment stance of it’s youth. The teenage rebel has been a central part of culture and has dictated, given birth to and pushed creativity and eventually the mass market. But where are they today? I set out in search for individuals who stand for their intrepid view of the world and against the social and political hierarchy. Within the aristocracy of male fashion we can note that a gentleman’s charm is an effortless ideal to publicise his status; but what is charm without a well tailored suit? A suit can tell a story, it can be a powerful expression of wealth, style and ultimately gain him those much strived for man points. Take James Bond, who’s English accent and well tailored suits teamed with an uncontrollable sexiness - fazed not even by Goldfinger himself - shows the innate meaning of the power suit. But the real creator of the gentlemanly aesthetic derived from the pioneer himself, englishman Beau Brummell. He is a arbiter of mens fashion and confidently changed a flamboyant look of male wigs and white powder for the face which were once to be seen as the norm. Brummells exuberant confidence in his taste is what gave him the stance to change the face of male fashion; he depicted what the classic Englishman is seen to be, sarcastic yet witty, slightly reserved but graceful and a recognisable taste in fashion, a Gentleman of standards. The suit was considered perhaps, an elitist accessory. Savile Row played homage to the high brow clientele offering a personal made to measure service which trickled through the grape vine and provided Savile Row with an ever expanding client base, while America encapsulated the Ivy leagues by offering a youthful yet authoritative look. Elitist or not this iconic power look has stemmed through generation after generation with an ever changing purpose. It is inevitable in our knowledge that fashion is on a turn wheel which is constantly reinventing the past in some form or another. Menswear has seemingly been pushed to the back of everyones watch list in recent years of the fashion week epidemics; womenswear is in the prime of its life and although we all try and convince each other that we follow menswear as religiously as women’s, we don’t. Men were once the adjudicator of style, it only takes a glimpse back into history to understand the forceful nature that these men have had on current dress. Henry V||| took his style so seriously that he ordered his own army to dress a certain way, and that is the passion that ultimately shaped style. An abundance of layering was seen throughout the rein of Henry V||| and when this is compared to current fashion, it simply takes a recent Haider Ackermann show providing shiny renaissance jacquard, or a 4minute video on youtube to show Kanye West layered up in the latest Givenchy to show
the similarities; and yes, he might be head to toe in black and yes, he may be wearing a skirt, but this still doesn’t excuse the undercurrent referencing from the historic style seekers within the renaissance period.
WILLIAM HUNT, SAVILE ROW Britain once was considered an island of class, filled with high sobriety and snobbery; was this true? Perhaps not, an illusion caused by our undeniable knowledge and confidence in knowing how to dress, somewhat similar to the Parisians. The 1920’s saw the end of World War 1 when men started to employ a relaxed form of tailoring, skimming down from the three piece suit which the Edwardian era embodied. The 20’s exuded the coolest jazz and in-turn, the coolest suit. What did this suit represent? The suit was a representation of the cultural influences of the time, music, film and theatre; it embodied relaxed fun. Spencer Hart is a designer in which music openly inspires, stroll into the store located on Savile Row which exudes fluid lines and curved dark wooden walls with relaxing yet fun jazz playing in the background allows men to shop for the suit with the same mindset as the designer himself. And further to music, we can note that film is an exposition of the ultimate force that the character wearing a power suit can have; Marcello in the timeless film, La Dolce Vita is first introduced dressed in a chic and lavish suit, this provides the backbone to his persona; he held gracious power and a sexually alluring
personality which was portrayed through his impeccable dress. Italian style recognised the implications of a flattering fit that will ultimately signify the masculine sophistication, this was a far cry from the Ivy Leagues conservative yet comfort-driven clothing. Spring/Summer ‘14 sees similar attributes to the above; the suit which exudes fluid lines and relaxed tailoring is a top trend on the cat walk, from Ermenegildo Zegna to Alber Elbaz at Lanvin proving that romanticised shaping and a shawl lapel can provide just as much power as a stiffly tailored and exceptionally fitted suit; helped by the ideal of looking utterly effortless. Appearing to leave your home without as much as a thought to the clothes on your back is what shows this effortless look; the renaissance period so evidently never succeeded in such a thing, nor did they want to, but a powerful suit is one that looks as though it’s where it belongs, effortlessly draping the masculine frame, not to show off or magnify arrogance, but to look like an effortlessly dressed gentleman.
against the grain, ‘new money’ is evident on the streets of London which in time will become the new custom of Savile Row. A beautifully made grey suit was once sufficient enough to magnify an individuals identity in the professional world, double or single breasted would have been the decider of how extravagant the suit needed to be, accessories extended as far as a cravat and a patterned pocket square to match the socks. The modern man seeks self expression, the modern man wants to stand out and speak to the world through his creative voice. Sauvage exudes understated contemporary design, built for the modern gentleman, a designer which doesn’t want to be contained by seasons or trends; he is inspired by art, culture and doesn’t limit himself on the luxury he provides. Prints and jacquard blazers made a spectacle this season and Tom Ford was no exception, individuality couldn’t have been more prominent with beautiful brights and prints.
WILLIAM HUNT, SAVILE ROW
POOLE & CO, SAVILE ROW
Private investment company, Fung Capital has recently acquired Kilgour, Hardy Aimes and many more of Savile Row, a Hong Kong based company with the hope of expanding Fung Capital, the large conglomerate shows promise and provides the strong indication to the importance that the tailoring industry still holds, and the next generation of gentlemen will encompass this. The modern man is a new breed, and we have seen him develop through history. The historic flamboyant renaissance, cool gentlemanly dandys and the 20’s relaxed suit triumphing after World War 1. The mod suit still makes an appearance on the streets of Shoreditch, where fashion has no evident boundaries.
The modern man seeks self expression, the modern man wants to stand out and speak to the world through his creative voice. Sauvage exudes understated contemporary design, built for the modern gentleman, a designer which doesn’t want to be contained by seasons or trends; he is inspired by art, culture and doesn’t limit himself on the luxury he provides. Prints and jacquard blazers made a spectacle this season and Tom Ford was no exception, individuality couldn’t have been more prominent with beautiful brights and prints.
POOLE & CO, SAVILE ROW
WILLIAM HUNT, SAVILE ROW
Gangsters wanted power, gangsters acquired power; along with a great looking wardrobe which rivalled the Bond’s that modernised over time. The moguls through history have shaped menswear, and now, a new age of gentlemen has emerged. We are seeing ambitious young men growing
helped me to come to conclude and evaluate the difference between a boy and a man. A fashion forward mogul to someone who thinks himself to seriously to care, or simply a man who has worked hard for everything he owns (including
Personal experience has led me the idea of what a power suit
HUNTSMAN, SAVILE ROW the suit) to a boy who has inherited a hefty cash flow and inturn a boyish and casual style. Tom Ford states; ‘[Menswear] is a detail-driven business. It really is about the fabrics, or the make, or the buttonholes, or the lapels. At the designer level, it is a very, very different business than women’s.’ Menswear is so refined, the lapel will abide to the wearers wish, the fabric will have the correct amount of cashmere in and the jacket needs to consider how many buttons will show. A peaked lapel to finish of the bow tie with tuxedo for the evening, and a classic lapel for the day time business dress, the lining in the jacket which can provide individuality without the obvious implications; consisting of a cleverly placed pattern or label in the lining, this is something that tailor William Hunt abides too, a flamboyant and individual lining which discreetly notes the exclusive component. Its the small things that will essentially create the look of a man. A reference to a historic trend in the 60’s is the Mods who centred around rebellion, but equally these males were of the lower class demographic. An evident trend of this subculture was the shortened trouser hem to show the ankle, perhaps this was a purposeful feature but this was presumably something caused by lack of funds for properly fitting trousers, and allas, a shortened hem to show
the ankle or the patterned sock is now completely on trend and modernistic; a favourite amongst the younger business men who circuit the high-rise buildings in Canary Wharf., each trying implement something to forth come their youth and a new approach to not only business but to fashion, while the older professionals are in-keeping with the classically fitted three piece suit, suggesting the same approach to business. The suit is an evolving fashion, it can provide a male with their chosen persona, whether it be a classic gentleman to a youthful mogul. What is the new gentleman’s aesthetic? It’s an aesthetic that exudes individualism, tailoring and refined details.
TEXT: HOLLY KNOWLES
BESTDRESSEDMEN As Britain still heralds a knack for a reserved and quietly elegant persona, we can see everything that strides within a foot of the modest islands walls resembles that with conviction. There is something to be said for discreet architecture and historic areas that ooze with character and charm which occasionally rubs off on the people within it. There is seemingly a strong love affair between the British and secrecy; Gentlemen clubs and secret societies is a series of unlabelled doors and the undeniable knowledge to discover what is behind the perfectly disguised walls. Perhaps an extravagant door knocker will herald a clue to the location of the mysterious destination, but once within these walls, an array of upper class men all discretely trying to outbid each other with the sharpest suit to show the wealth that they all ultimately hold. Annabel’s; A club doesn’t come better dressed than Annabel’s. The membership is as strict as the dress code which creates a decadent and luxurious club on every level. Forget the boyish charm, and the casual designer gear that might allow you entry into many other clubs on the basis of ‘cool’, Annabel’s is not forgiving in that sense. Classic gentlemen parade the club wearing equally classic tailors such as Geives and Hawkes. The men that have made this club their regular visit in the knowledge of the forthcoming pampering and five star service, with good liquor and a well chosen tie, for added style.
1
Tramps; Thanks to a non photography policy the members of Tramps are safe in the knowledge that whatever happens in this club, stays here. The lavish interiors consist of rich furnishings and well dressed waiters. Tramps is famous for it’s relaxed dress code, which was a unique touch when the club first opened 40years ago. Despite a smart casual dress code, the men within here look handsome and well dressed by employing an effortless and luxurious look. When you look to the ground, loafers are in full display; the most eye catching of all were a pair of Louis Vuitton snakeskin loafers employed by the most discerning of young moguls. Ties are flung to the tables - which are filled with hoards of alcohol - in the pursuit of freeing themselves from the trials of business, while the cleverly placed Hermes belts are worn in abundance.
2
Colony Club; Arrive in your newly brought Audi and the valley will run to you without hesitation. This formidable club offers a elegant mix of Contemporary yet traditional design. Members ooze sophistication and, dare I say it, intense affluence. Walk up the twisting staircase which is an array of full length mirrors to satisfy the guests egos. The restaurant sees a mixture of Middle Eastern business men and young Europeans; who are dressed smart yet casual, as if to say that their wealth doesn’t need to be transpired through their chosen attire, however sophisticated the venue may be. A shirt buttoned down without a tie may suggest the result of a stressful poker game, but equally these guests want to arrive in comfortable, yet opulent style.
3
Sanctum Hotel; Afternoon tea, woman’s territory right? No. Men want a piece of this action too, and London is providing just the thing; Gentlemen’s Afternoon tea. Take away the pink infused cupcakes and finger sandwich’s enjoyed by elegant woman, and opt for a masculine mixture of red meat, top of the range cigars and strong tea. Attended by business professionals looking to impress, or to simply enjoy, the classic grey suit with a narrow lapel is a favourite for the tea time goers. The men that encapsulate the room are business men on a mission, shirts with a personalised cuff or a tie to match the socks; casual might be the idea when you think afternoon tea but Gentleman’s Afternoon Tea is a different ballgame.
4
The Blind Pig; This laid back speakeasy is discreetly hidden behind a thick wooden door which parades an impressive door knocker, lending itself to the forthcoming interior of the bar. The Cocktails at The Blind Pig are as masculine as the occupancy, the liquor is strong and poured generously; even a popcorn infused option isn’t a feminine as it sounds, offering a whiskey base in a whiskey -and ever so masculine - glass. The men that fill the room implement an element of creativity to their dress, a cravat and flamboyant pocket square perhaps, or the Ted Baker global range also appears to be a favourite as I spy the shiny jacquard prints reminiscent of Middle Eastern dress.
5
Shoreditch House; With a membership worth £700 per annum and only a exclusive amount of them available (1000 to be exact) the crowd within Shoreditch House is an eclectic range of people to be seen with, the ‘in crowd’, a discerning group of wealthy creatives. This being said, the style that lies within this renovated tea house is a nod to the hipster trend setters. The males converse in a blasé manner wearing the latest Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh, pushing their effortlessly cool attitude to the people who are within their surroundings. The heated roof top pool comprises of a skinny model like women and attractive males slightly resembling a Calvin Klein ad from the 90’s, again the key word within Shoreditch House is ‘cool’.
6
PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW ANDERSON STYLING: DAVID DALEY PRODUCER: PAULINA PRAKAPAITE DESIGNER: JASMINE MACPHEE
MRMODERNITY
A NEW SILHOUETTE FOR TODAYS MODERN MAN REDEFINING SHAPE AND CUT. USING CLEAN LINES AND A MINIMAL COLOUR PALETTE IN A MASCULINE TERRITORY.
NAVY TOP, WORN BACK TO FRONT, ZARA. SHORTS, NIKE. MEGGINGS, TOPMAN. CUFF, LUKE HARRIS.
BLACK OVERSIZED TOP, QUASIMI HOMME. WHITE SHIRT, COS. GREY SHORTS, TOPMAN.
PINSTRIPE DRESS, H&M TROUSERS, TOPMAN
CROP TOP, ZARA. TROUSERS, TOPMAN.
BLAZER, ZARA. DRESS, BRICK LANE MARKET.
COAT, LUKE HARRIS. SHIRT, COS. SHORTS, TOPMAN
MODEL: GEORGE W @ OXYGEN HAIR AND MAKEUP: VITHYA VISVENDRA
TEXT: JESSICA CALDERWOOD PHOTOGRAPHERS:JESSICA CALDERWOOD, ALEXANDRA MILLER
REMEMBERINGTODAY We live in a world that is constantly striving for something new, but what is the outlook for the future generations. We all love a throwback don’t we? As I watched Clueless the other day, I was relishing in the fact that I only recently picked up the same Lilac plaid A-line mini skirt that Dionne Davenport was sporting. It dawned on me that we pick the best of the best from the previous decades as inspiration to adapt, particularly when finding a new trend, but what are we providing for future generations? Most of the fashion trends and art styles emerged as a way to rebel; some would say to be ‘eccentric’. Today dress codes aren’t as dictating and we can be ourselves. But with this freedom, I believe the craving to be different is lacking. Britain to me is very much mundane. Especially considering that the only original garment to derive from this generation to date is the Onsie, which was the result of three teenage boys wanting the perfect ‘chill-out wear’.
“
”
BRITAIN’S COLLEGES ARE CULTIVATING THE NEXT DIVERSE AND ACCOMPLISHED GENERATION
I think everybody would agree that technology is at the forefront of progress when considering our well-established heritage. With eight products, from Macs to I-Pads, being released this year by Apple, how much further can they go until we are completely content? The next generation of I-phones are said to have face recognition and a laser keyboard. It has even seen a transformation in shopping experiences, with Burberry’s digitalized ‘magic’ mirrors in the Regent Street store. When a customer wearing a garment approaches a mirror, it switches into a screen that shows them how the garment was made and it’s catwalk debut. The advancement in technology will only keep making lifestyles simpler but more effective for the forthcoming generations. The creative industries are becoming aware of the uses of
KENSINGTON GARDENS, BURBERRY PRORSUM MENS S/S14 SHOW technology; 3D printing has already been seen entering the fashion world. Some people would say that we are losing a human touch when it comes to art and design, does digitally printed chiffon have the same effect as hand painted silk? But this technology means future designers can produce in as wide or limited quantities, and requires less people to manufacture. In 2010, the Electrolux Design Competition saw Joshua Harris devise a 3D printing wardrobe, whereby an old shirt goes in, and a new one comes out. Harris explains that ‘People are becoming more and more comfortable with the concept of printing objects for immediate use’, suggesting we will see a shift of this method from couture to mainstream. People are much more open-minded nowadays and this encourages us to grow upon our global community. Britain is known for nurturing creative talent, with it’s well established, reputable institutions. According to the British Fashion Council’s report, ‘Future of Fashion – Strategic Considerations for Growth’ they are looking at new VISA regimes to ensure that it does not divert international students away from London. Britain’s colleges are cultivating the next diverse and accomplished generation of creative people that have the ability to inspire with their art, music or designs.
“
”
THE ACQUISITION OF EXPERIENCE HAS BECOME APPARENT IN THIS GENERATION
To say that our generation is fuelled with technology is true, but also generic. The acquisition of experience has become apparent in this generation. This year at V-Festival, I stood at the main stage waiting for Beyoncé four hours prior to her performance. The achy legs, dehydration and being surrounded by sticky people did not hinder the experience, but was merely part of it. Our generation is not principally about products but the experience. Exhibitions are becoming not only much more common, but more accessible and interactive. At the Biba exhibition in Brighton earlier this year, the public were able to leave a note for other exhibitors to read and for Biba themselves. This interaction transforms the idea of looking at imagery or clothes in a passive way, to something that is more dynamic and fulfilling. It was the ‘Chloe Attitudes’ exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris last year, which included a table of ten I-Pad’s holding different archives. This engaged more of the audience than the photographs that occupied the walls.
V-FESTIVAL CHELMSFORD 2013
“
”
LIBERTY LONDON, ‘THIS IS HARDCORE’ WINDOW
AN EXPERIENCE DEFINES AND INSPIRES US MORE THAN A PHYSICAL OBJECT.
BURBERRY PRORSUM MENS SS14 DIOR AT HARRODS
GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2012, THE GREAT MENAGERIE POPUP STORE SPONSERED BY ELLE
Pop-up stores and events are becoming more popular; a concept that people want to experience for the short time is it available. LS:N Global says that ‘Experience was once a part of luxury. Now, in many cases, it is luxury’. If you were in London March/April then you would have no doubt seen Dior take-over the windows, lifts and top floor of Harrods. This was a 360° emersion experience, you could capture the spirit of Dior and connect with its narrative after being encompassed in their journey. Similarly, Selfridges ran ‘The Silence Room’, which was an immersive experience held in their Ultralounge, taking shoppers away from the hustle and bustle of shopping to unwind. Likewise, catwalks aren’t just to display the clothes, but a show where people engross themselves within a designer’s concept. Festivals today aren’t just for a bands fans or people who own a camper van enjoying the hippy lifestyle, but for an eclectic audience. The people to the left of your tent could be grungy teenagers, and to the right a generic family. Glastonbury sold out, selling 135,000 tickets in less than two hours. A paper ticket or a fabric wristband is more valuable than a product nowadays. An experience defines and inspires us more than a physical object. People want to share these experiences with others, and is essentially the purpose of social media. Instagram has been designed to take, edit and upload instant images that capture a moment. As experience seekers, we are providing better events and developing new ways to create memories for the future generations. The future is being defined as Generation D, we have become accustomed to technology, but digital awareness will be embedded in its entirety. I have no doubt that Generation Y will create something inspirational to leave in our wake, whether it be tangible or not. 62
TEXT: TIYA PRISCILLA ILLUSTRATIONS: MAYANG ADISTA PUTRI
BRITISHDESIRABILTY Unique designs and heritage brands are putting British clothes into wardrobes around the world. This summer’s Diamond Jubilee and the London Olympics present a unique selling opportunity. But what exactly is that about the British fashion so desirable to overseas buyers? As London Fashion Week 2013 comes to a close and begins to fade away, among the international designers who sent their latest collections down the runway were a mass of British designers including well-known names such as Christopher Kane, Henry Holland and of course Vivienne Westwood whom all presented outstanding and emotive collections as well as up and coming talent such as Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff whom are becoming internationally successful with their exceptional collections. British fashion has become increasingly popular across the globe, putting the nation well and truly on the fashion map and offering big opportunities for fashion outlets of all shapes and sizes, including designers who launched at Fashion week as this is the time that the world gets to receive the best and newest insight of upcoming fashion and designers. UK brand Heritage clothing is a leading player within the British fashion movement that has proven so popular over the past year. The ethos is simple, using traditional manufacturing techniques alongside the highest quality raw materials to create clothing of the highest calibre.
“
”
SO WHAT EXACTLY IS IT ABOUT BRITISH FASHION WHICH APPEALS TO OVERSEAS BUYERS?
Popular styles within the collection include Heritage Research Jackets, Knitwear and shirts with every piece within the collection subject to the same attention to detail and immaculate finish. It’s difficult to say why heritage brands are starting to prove so popular once again in the United Kingdom, given that up until very recently people would turn their noses up at the thought of wearing what they considered to be “old fashioned” styles. However, with such a broad historical palette to choose from, it’s perhaps not surprising that younger designers are starting to look to the past in order to delivery stunning contemporary threads. British fashion is definitely becoming more popular overseas; with the number of consumers searching online for British brands and retailers from outside of the UK has been growing. Keeping in mind that in today’s world, everything is just under the touch of a button meaning everyone from around the globe can simply go on online and flick through absolutely everything that the British fashion has to offer.
“
”
I BELIEVE THAT SOME BRITISH DESIGNERS STILL STICK HIGHLY TO THEIR ROOTS IN TERMS OF PRODUCING THEIR COLLECTIONS.
Janika Mazjane Job: Buyer Company: Baltic Designer Showroom Based: Russia Who do you think are the most important fashion retailers and why? Major UK store groups such as Topshop, Burton, Dorothy Perkins and Burburry have successfully diversified, including mail order and e-retailing. Middle mass market is extremely overcrowded with fashion retailers, though I would say Zara is the most successful in terms of “product vs price”. Independent fashion online retailer Netaporter’s one of the most successful online retailers in luxury segment. Children retail multiple “Detsky Mir” running over 250 stores in Russia, offering a wider product range than “Toys R Us”, including nursery products, fashion, furniture, books and stationery. Why do you think UK fashion buyers like to work internationally? I find that UK designer fashion businesses have unexpectedly strong international links, with many examples of the overseas sourcing of manufacturing and fabrics. They enjoy excellent relationships with the international fashion press, employ international sales and PR agents, and take part in international trade fairs. As a result, their international sales are rapidly growing. What do you wish for the domestic international fashion industry? My wish is more for designers to believe that profit and turnover is not only in the segment of “luxury” Do not try to be a “ freelance “ and the merchant in one. Stop creating a blueprint collection with brands and stop paint something left, then the right hand, but instead to have his own style and stick with it. What do you think are the key issues to affect the Retail Industry in the next 5 years? Consumer and demographic trends (spending habits, buying behaviour, trends), Price deflation vs rising costs (rent, property taxes etc), human resources issues, development of online retail. Luxury market is turning into a mass market and fashion today is more about sociology and economics, not a unique way of consumption (it’s like skimmed milk in a porcelain cup).
Paloma LoLo Karamel Job: Buyer Company: LoLosKloset Based: London What do you think about the UK fashion market? I feel the UK is always embracing retailing, clothing and fashion as well as beauty products. The UK fashion markets are continuously changing, however always remaining current, new and fresh. What is your intake on British heritage brands? On our very own British soil, we have an extensive history based around classic, rural pieces; an aesthetic that has always remained strong and relevant. When I think of British heritage the first thing that comes to mind is English Classic. I believe that some British designers still stick highly to their roots in terms of producing their collections. What do you think makes British fashion so desirable? The UK is renowned as the birthplace of some of the world’s most creative and innovative designer fashion labels. These labels have an important economic impact on the UK, particularly London. People from outside the UK are attracted to our excellence as well as our high quality goods. London is a huge Fashion capital, which is seen as very exciting and new. It’s a place that people want to keep coming back and forth to just for the Fashion. Why do you think overseas buyers are attracted to UK based retailers? London Fashion Week is seen by most designers to be very influential, receiving substantial press coverage, introducing new designers and setting new trends and styles in the fashion industry as a whole. London is viewed as the UK’s designer fashion capital. The capital is seen as an influential hub for talent, trends, and creativity. London also hosts many of the leading fashion colleges and specialist fashion service providers. Most designers recognise London’s importance, regardless of their own location. The UK market is extremely popular towards international buyers; they are fascinated by the high quality standards that UK produces. London itself being one of the capitals of fashion attracts thousands of people from all over the globe. Britain is constantly developing and growing in terms of fashion. From shows that can be seen at London fashion week which present the upmost amazing talent to the everyday street style that we see all around Britain
LADYOF LEISURE EMBRACE THE FILM NOIR MOOD, INDULGE IN A CLASSIC HERITAGE LOOK AND TAKE A STROLL AROUND LONDON’S COVENT GARDEN
CREATIVE PRODUCER: SHAWN WILKINSON-CLARKE PHOTOGRAPHY: SARA BABIKZ STYLING: JENNA PIHKOLA AND ALICE WILLSON DESIGNER: ALAIN JAIMEZ
TOP: SHIRT (BELT INCLUDED): NECKLACE:
TRENCH COAT: KAPPHL BLOUSE: VINTAGE TROUSERS: H & M
TOP: RIVER ISLAND SHIRT (BELT INCLUDED): ZARA NECKLACE: H & M
82
TRENCH COAT: KAPPHL BLOUSE: TROUSERS: H & M
JACKET: VINTAGE BOTTOM: ZARA
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTORIA SIMPSON
FASHIONWEEKEXTINCTION Fashion Week was once seen as a celebration where designers would come together to showcase their collections. A major shift has been said to of took place over the years, and in order to conjure up an accurate stance, I’ve set out to speak with the professionals to find out their personal views. It has been said that showing in fashion has lost its purpose over the years. According to an article in the New York Times on New York Fashion Week, it was said that designers felt fashion week is nothing more than a ‘panic-inducing’ and ‘depressing’ experience. A far cry from what we anticipate and hope it would be. Speaking with Shaun Kearney, creative director and designer of Cynthia Steffe, situated in New York, I set out to discover whether he felt this theory was indeed true. Shaun explained how after participating and showing in fashion for a number of years, he has seen a dramatic shift. ‘The calendar for one is insanely packed and essentially anyone with a big cheque with zero talent can show, just as there are many people becoming fashion designers because they are a celebrity’. ‘The panic-inducing is also precise, mainly down to there being such a multitude of shows within a small time-frame, which leads to conflict with editor and buyer attendance overlapping, as well as model-bookings also overlapping.’ Kearney also made the point of saying how it has vastly developed into what could be considered as one big circus. ‘Everyone has a blog and thinks they’re entitled to be at a fashion show to promote their own sites and style, which has led to them taken so much attention away from the brand or the designer.’ From working at London Fashion Week this year, I had first hand experience in witnessing this ongoing case that has formed a reality over the years. The vast majority of models I came across would have less than ten minutes to rapidly catch another show on the other side of London, which is physically impossible in this city no matter what time of day it is. Unless, however, you have a jet on hand. As of late, the dramatic shift does not just include celebrities and bloggers. TV reality ‘stars’ are now being branded as designers; many of whom have now even established their own independant labels. The designs they are producing, however, are those that have been established throughout the high street for the past decade. There is no creativity or thought process. No concept or appreciation. Although it may sell for a small period of time, to designers and fashionistas alikethis can be seen as a form of dishonesty and lack of courtesy to those who thrive of sheer creativity and have worked years upon years to build up their empires. What was once the norm is no longer apparent as unfortunate as this may seem. Each year will forever consist of an array of bloggers, along with others alike who class themselves as genuine devoters to fashion, flock to the scene in a dress code that becomes more outrageous than the latter.
LIGHTS. CAMERA. ACTION. PAUL SMITH LFW S/S’14 One must not forget why fashion exists today. Why we’d do anything to be at fashion week, whether it’s in London, Paris, Milan or New York. Fashion is about appreciating the arts. It’s about the eccentrics whom have created an outcome that has been inspired purely through the means of devotion.
“ ”
FASHION WEEK IS NOTHING MORE THAN A PANIC-INDUCING AND DEPRESSING EXPERIENCE
Speaking with British Vogue’s editor, Alexandra Shulman, a much respected woman who certainly has the knowledge regarding this specific subject, I asked whether she felt Fashion Week has not just lost its purpose, but whether there’s compelling evidence that the future of it is in deputy. To my surprise she answered immediately. Short, yes, but nevertheless she gave me everything I needed to know in order to conjure up an accurate conclusion.
TEXT: ELIZABETH FOWLER
THEEX-CENTRICS
MODELS PREPARE FOR SHOWTIME BACKSTAGE AT HENRY HOLLAND S/S’14 ‘Funnily enough we are working on a piece for our February issue on the subject of the future of the shows. I think you can argue it both ways. My feeling is that we certainly need fashion shows but there could be far fewer. They are also very time consuming and expensive to attend,’ said Alexandra.
“ ”
EVERYONE HAS A BLOG AND THINKS THEY’RE ENTITLED TO BE AT A FASHION SHOW Fashion week, which was first established in New York in 1943, remains today the opportunity for designers and brands to showcase their talent to the world. Whether we wish for fashion week to be rekindled in the form of its original purpose, or whether it is simply the case of accepting it how it is, one thing is for definite: there is a lack in appreciation which could potentially threaten the future of fashion week, and one can only hope that a more thorough education on the historical aspects of fashion will be compelling enough to establish a more valued perception.
Many moons ago, fashion week was an event hosted simply to showcase fashion and the talent of some of Britains finest designers, it seems that fashion week has become a spectacle, a circus of sorts, for the people not the clothes themselves. For one week, the cobbles of Somerset House become the stomping ground for fashion nobodies pretending to be fashion somebodies. How do you spot these fakers you ask, its easy just look out for these four tell tale signs.
EXTENSIVE LOITERING:
1
These people live in hope that they’ll be “discovered” or land themselves a place on a high-flying street style blog, ambitious huh. They’re nowhere near important enough to be invited to any shows, so the likelihood is they will spend their entire day/week stumbling around the infamous cobbles, so if you spot a couple of faces you recognize but can’t put your finger on where you know them from its probably because you don’t, you just saw them doing the same thing 2 days prior.
‘COMICAL’ FASHION TEES:
2
The rise of the ‘ironic’ fashion tee has, believe it or not, had one advantage; it makes these nobodies stand out like crazy. “Too bad I can’t afford a real Celine tee, instead I’ll wear this comical ‘Feline’ tee to make people think I’m hip and don’t give a fuck”. See also; ‘Comme Des Fuckdown’ and ‘Aint Laurent Without Yves’ or perhaps most tragic ‘Ballinciaga’, totes hilar babe.
AN OUTFIT CONSISTING OF EVERY GARMENT THEY OWN: A sure fire way to get spotted at fashion week? Wear anything and everything in your wardrobe. We can’t guarantee you’ll be spotted for the right reasons but it does seem to be the method favored by most. People go out of their way to dress as outlandishly as humanely possible, which causes a few raised eyebrows, a few “oh so chic” ’s but ultimately begs the question, do you seriously dress like this on a daily basis? Like you’ve rolled in superglue and ran through Susie Bubbles (and the entire neighborhoods for that matter) wardrobe? Well, each to their own I guess.
3
NON-STOP MENTIONING OF THEIR BLOG:
EXCLUSIVE BACKSTAGE ACCESS AT PAUL SMITH LFW S/S’14
Lastly, they’ll be swaning around in ridiculously dark sunglasses thinking they’re the next Anna Wintour. In fact, they just spend their evenings copying news stories from vogue.com on to blogger.com in hope one day they’ll find themselves tucked front row between their new BFF’s Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof. If (god help you) you have the misfortune of conversing with the fashion week nobodies, I suggest you mentally tally how many times they mention their awesome fashion blog or perhaps countdown how long it takes them to mention it, you never know it could make the conversation slightly entertaining.
4
TEXT: ALISA MILCHEVSKAYA. ILLUSTRATOR: MAYANG ADISTA
WWWDOWNTHELINE One of the most notable british inventions, the internet, changed the way we communicate forever and lead to incredible discoveries across the galaxies. Alisa milchevskaya explores the future of interaction and how three small letters are shaping the world today. It is the year 1990 and Tim Berners-Lee is set on a seraphic journey to the manger where his computer rests to gave birth to the world wide web - one which arguably rivalled that of Jesus himself. That very nativity opened the gate into heaven of alternative new communication between human and machine that has been fluctuating ever since. Today, practically every single one of our everyday objects can listen, change, manoeuvre and interact with us by means of sensors and the internet. However the synergy from human to human has also reformed into an expansive, ever-evolving entity - researchers Rajesh Rao and Andrea Stocco at the University of Washington claim to have developed a brain-to-brain interface which allows one person to transmit his thoughts through a rubber helmet covered in sensors (which somewhat resembles the inside of an octopus’ tentacle) to the other individual’s helmet which then jolts particular motor receptor, causing a corresponding muscle to move. As demand for efficiency grows and our spare time decreases, the future of communication will be dictated by our generation’s current and future needs.
HOW DID THE IDEA COME ABOUT?
I therefore questioned members of our sprightly younger generation on how they prefer to interact today and what other mind boggling (and brain interfering) inventions we may have to look forward to. Fear not - the future may not be as dark, cold and detached as one may have predicted. Even though some of the more cynical suggest we might have a ‘neuro-scanner’ or ‘chips implanted in our brains to create a synthetic telekinesis’ and robots joining the party to take over daily tasks ‘as the entire human race is becoming lazier and lazier’. Surprisingly, a lot of responses celebrate raw, natural communication - today it seems ‘visual imagery is very effective’ and ‘good old body language and a smile. Possibly scent as it’s an unconscious one’. ‘Heightened level of body language’ is certainly the desired imminent synergy, guess there’s some emotions hiding behind the ‘duck face’ profile pics after all. Even though the opportunity for communication is enabled through technology, ‘to build or develop and to sustain you need more than just an opportunity – you need a core. And the core of pretty much everything is based on relationships’.
create a unique connection between the DJ, the structure, the music, and the Daero Ra: An interaction booth was audience - this truly was the heart of this needed for the House of Peroni’s marinteractive art installation, and because keting event. There was a plan to make of that the magnitude of its impact was the DJ booth interactive and communiquite unprecedented. cate with the audience in real time. DO YOU FEEL THERE IS A PARTITION Adrian Law: The event lasted for the BETWEEN THE DJ AND THE CROWD? CAN better part of June over at Portland THE INTERACTION BE PUSHED FURTHER? Place. What started out as a neon string Daero Ra: If there are interactive ways structure to simply house an Italian DJ to communicate between the DJ or manifested into making the entire insenvironment and the people, it must be tallation interactive, which is when we more exciting and interesting! were brought into the mix. Adrian Law: The clubbing scene, I would DO YOU CLUB A LOT? WHAT’S YOUR consider to be a venue, or rather a VIEW ON THE CLUB SCENE TODAY? canvas in which this sort of artwork can take place. To that end I think that the Daero Ra: To be honest I don’t enjoy interaction between the DJ and the loud or noisy places. However, a DJ Crowd is being experimented even playing music is a great idea! In a club, now, and the partition between them the DJ leads the atmosphere. is challenged. I recall going to a Silent Disco event at the Royal Festival Hall, Adrian Law: Well yes frequently as I and what was equally great to the believe it’s an expression of how we live strange yet fun sensation to be dancing our lives in contemporary times. in a silent room with headphones on, The actual premise behind this was to was that you were listening to awesome
music you liked in the same manner that the DJ was with his on! The fact that Jonathan Ross was the DJ made the connection and experience all the more personal. But unconventional events such as Silent Disco and VJ performances are happening, and have been since the dawn of partying, it is just continually evolving, quietly in the background. DO YOU THINK PROJECTS LIKE NEON HOUSE CAN SHIFT AND LESSEN THE POWER OF THE DJ IN THE FUTURE? Daero Ra: I do think so. Currently, the DJ always watches the audience’s responses - these are untouchable. If there is a more clear way to communicate with the audience, it must be more dramatic not only for the DJ but also for the audience because the above is a two-way communication. CURRENTLY, THE DJ ALWAYS WATCHES THE AUDIENCE’S RESPONSES THESE ARE UNTOUCHABLE
Adrian Law: Well, arguably DJs are having to evolve to become VJs so that they can still maintain the rhythm and vibe of the nightclub. So I’d say no, it wouldn’t because it doesn’t seem to have been happening with other interactive projects. Or in other words projects that do weaken the role of the DJ are bad projects for doing so. MUSIC BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER AND EVOKES A PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL RESPONSE FROM THE LISTENER. THE PROJECT HOWEVER EMPOWERS THE LISTENER TO TAKE CONTROL OF THE MUSIC - HOW DO YOU THINK THIS WOULD CHANGE THE INTERACTION IN A CLUB ENVIRONMENT? WOULD THERE BE A SENSE OF COMPETITION AND LESS UNITY AND COHESION? Daero Ra: The interaction system should be well designed to avoid interrupting each other. In the House of Peroni’s case, I allocated different channels of each sound from each input from stimulus. Adrian Law: This was a principal issue that was brought up during the collaboration - architects whose priority was on their structure - DJ Alessio, who was concerned about contending with such discourse, and us who were worried that we were being brought in to practically make all the magic happen! That’s why I would say that by design we were responsible for giving the audience the power of participation, rather than a power to gain control. I had to negotiate between the sound and the structure, so that while the audience was able
to interact, the sounds were carefully chosen by Alessio. WE ARE CONSTANTLY DEVELOPING NEW MEANS OF COMMUNICATION, WHAT DO YOU THINK THE FUTURE HOLDS FOR HOW WE INTERACT WITH ONE ANOTHER? Daero Ra: I believe technologies can bring more plentiful and intuitional human communication with human or digital devices. Current interfaces are limited to screens, monitors, and sound interface. Technology will, however, allow more physical and trifling communication with extended, spatial censoring systems. Adrian Law: Participation is definitely our frontier with regards to the future and new methods of communication. Our world has changed with technology, smart phones, social network, blogging etc. - the audience is no longer a passive entity and is more engaged and interactive. The future will definitely involve experimenting with new technology and engaging the artist’s audience - the partition between the artist and the audience is shrinking, and that is an exciting and terrifying revelation. PARTICIPATION IS DEFINITELY OUR FRONTIER WITH REGARDS TO THE FUTURE AND NEW METHODS OF COMMUNICATION
WOULD YOU LIKE TO EXPERIMENT WITH INTERACTIVE ARCHITECTURE FURTHER? WHERE DO YOU SEE THE JOURNEY TAKING YOU? Daero Ra: I will test a new type of Tangible User Interface with a more organic and kinetic design for a particular environment. If devices can save and reload human emotion or feeling and also feel the same feeling in real time, it must be a true communication. My role is to find applicable existing technology and design interactive and touchable interface. Adrian Law: I’ve been in touch with both Alessio and Neon with the prospects of doing a version 2.0, since all the parties involved were so invigorated with what we had created. Daero and myself are working on a collaboration with Eccleston Square Hotel to produce a collection of interactive sound and light sculptures following in the same spirit. The individual is no longer passive and the world and our way of living is becoming more and more dynamic.
TWISTS&TALES FORESTS AND FACTORIES, SPELLS AND FANTASYJUICEBOX EXPLORES THE STORIES OF OUR BRITISH CHILDHOOD. THE CLASSIC TALES WITH A MODERN TWIST.
CREATIVE PRODUCER: NADIA SHAIKL PHOTOGRAPHY: NATALIE HEPWORTH STYLING: LACEY TEOLI & POLLY DUFF DESIGNER: ALEXANDRA MILLER
LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD: HAT RIVER ISLAND, SHIRT - NEW LOOK, SCARF - ACCESSORIZE.
PETER RABBIT: JACKET - RIVER ISLAND, TROUSERS - ZARA
CHARLIE & THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY: SHIRT - JACK WILLS, COAT - ZARA , TROUSERS - ZARA, BOOTS - VAGABOND
ALICE: DRESS - TOPSHOP, JACKET - H&M, NECKLACE - ACCESSORIZE H&M JACKET NECKLACE ACCESSORIZE
THE LION THE WITCH & THE WARDROBE: DRESS - TOPSHOP, NECKLACE - URBAN OUTFITTERS. COAT - VINTAGE
THE TIN MAN: DRESS & BELT - TOPSHOP, NECKLACE - M&S
TEXT: PAIGE CRONIN, PHOTOGRAPHY: THE POUNDSHOP ANDREW MEREDITH, CAROL SACHS, SIMON ARCHER HURLSTONE AND ALEXANDRA MILLER
DIY Everybody loves a bargain, so how great would it be if your local pound shop wasn’t full of mops, bad autobiographies and cheap cleaning products, but unusual, handmade and artistic creations, for a fraction of their expected price. Well that’s exactly where The Designer Pound Shop comes in..
SUMMER TOUR 2012
The Designer Pound POUNDSHOP 4, EAST LONDON SELFRIDGES WINDOW, LONDON Shop was set up by three graduates of The Royal College of Art in 2010 with the aim of selling imaginative and good quality products, with an affordable price tag. The Designer Pound Shop is an If you want to make something quirky and cool for under a innovative and refreshing idea, not only does it showcase the pound, then look no further than these quick and easy persowork of artists and designers, it makes it accessible to a wider nalised cards. audience who may not have a huge budget to splurge, and it also encourages up-cycling of old possessions. Staying with their low budget theme, The Pound shop tends to set up camp in disused shops, using cheap but effective methods to furbish the shop. They have gone from a little known shop to being picked as part of the Bright Young Things 2013, Selfridges annual initiative which chooses the UK’s best up and coming designers from fashion,art,design and food backgrounds. The Pound shop created a vivid window display on Oxford Street’s Selfridges store. They have already created nine pop-up shops around Britain, and have been backed by some huge companies and institutions including High Street2012, The Shoreditch Trust and Somerset House. It’s definitely worth keeping an eye out for upcoming Pound shop exhibitions as they encourage creatives to send in their unconventional and inventive products to sell in the pop-up shop. The Designer Pound Shop will be holding opening their tenth shop this December in collaboration with KK outlet. So get down to Hoxton store between the 5th-20th December to take a look at the enterprising store and grab yourself a bargain!
87
1. Draw your initial backwards on cardboard, cut out and stick onto a square piece of cardboard to create your stamp. 2. Cut out the dictionary page with your initial on. 3. Dip your stamp in paint and print onto the page. 4. Once dry, mount your page onto stiff card, frame and enjoy!
1 2
4 3
TEXT: PAIGE CRONIN, PHOTOGRAPHY: PAIGE CRONIN, TONY RAY JONES COURTESY OF © NATIONAL MEDIA MUSEUM
EXHIBITIONREVIEWS Michael O’Connell: The Lost Modernist Place: The Gibberd Gallery Date: 15/11/2013 For the first time in Britain, the work of the internationally acclaimed textile artist Michael O’Connell is being shown in the Gibberd Gallery in Essex. The retrospective charts O’Connells work throughout his life, showcasing his abstract prints, vibrant colours and sharp lines that saw him become one of the most influential textile artists of his time. The show includes large wall hangings, clothing and hand written notes and sketches. The notebooks added a personal touch to the exhibition and showed the thought and depth that went into developing the prints, they look as though they were impulsive and abstract, however the notebooks show the thought and passion that went into them. You can clearly see the various inspirations behind the prints, which include aboriginal art, african culture and the London underground. The exhibition showcases the designers abstract printing style,containing narratives and inspiration from various cultures and intricate techniques such as a combination of batik and resist dyeing. O’Connells work is eclectic, innovative and the narratives within them moved with the
Only In England Place: The Sceince Museum - The Media Space Date: 10/11/2013 “Eccentricity is a quality the British prize above other”, a quote by Tony Ray-Jones that I believe truly sums up the current exhibition of his work in The Media Space of The Science Museum. The space featured more than 100 photographs, some previously unseen and many chosen by fellow photographer and fan of Ray-Jones, Martin Parr. Tony Ray-Jones had an interest in comedy and this shows throughout his images, he portrays bizarre social interactions through his work and I found that it takes more than your first glance to see the disconnected narratives layered up in the photos. The exhibition is full of quirky observations of British life, people miserably watching punch and Judy shows, men on a freezing cold beach sprawled over deck chairs wearing their finest suit, the typical British summer, and our eternal love of a good cup of tea. His work portrays melancholy in everyday life, peppered with humour and joy; it presents quirky English customs and traditions that seem a lifetime away. There is a sincere truth to his images, which is something I really liked. As well as portraits, there are also cabinets containing Ray-Jones’ collections of self critical notes to avoid making his photos boring and cliché, hand written reading lists of books on British culture and a compilation of postcards from seaside towns which inspired his photography. The exhibition truly shows the British in all their eccentricity! The exhibition runs until March 2014 and then shows at the National Media Museum, Bradford and is just £5 for students!
BLACKPOOL , 1968
BEACHY HEAD BAOT TRIP, 1967
88
TEXT: ELIZABETH FOWLER
EVENTDIRECTORY Looking for something to do this coming season? Look no further, Juicebox have compiled a list of must see events, exhibitions and shows you can see over the next three months. From London to Paris, we’ve got you sorted. We’ve even gone as far as to tell you which tube stations to get off at, so whether you’re looking for inspiration for a project or just fancy a day out be sure to check here first!
LONDON 3D: PRINTING THE FUTURE Science Museum 9 October 15 June South Kensington SW7 2DD
RINSE ICE DISCO W/ SKREAM, RICHY AHMED AND TOM SHORTERZ, T Somerset House 28 November Temple WC2R 1LA
BAILEYS STARDUST National Portrait Gallery 6 February 1 June Leicester Square WC2H 0HE
ROLLER DISCO Renaissance Rooms Vauxhall Victoria SW8 1RZ
EAST LONDON DESIGN SHOW Truman Brewery 5th - 8th December Shoreditch High St E1 6QL
SKATE AT SOMERSET HOUSE Somerset House November 14 Jan 5 Temple WC2R 1LA
HELLO, MY NAME IS PAUL SMITH Design Museum 15th November 9th March London Bridge SE1 2YD HOT TUB CINEMA WINTER WARMERS Factory 7 Till Dec 8 Shorditch High St EC2A 3LS ISABELLA BLOW: FASHION GALORE! Somerset House 20th November - 2nd March Temple WC2R 1LA
WINTER WONDERLAND Hyde Park 23rd November 5th January Green Park W2 2UH
MIDLANDS AMERICAN PHOTOREALISM Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery November 30 – March 30 B3 3DH ASCO: NO MOVIES Nottingham Contemporary 12 October 2013 – 5 January 2014 NG1 2GB
CLOTHES SHOW LIVE THE NEC 06th December – 10th NEW YEARS EVE FIREWORKS December Southbank B40 1NT 31st December Waterloo SE1 7PB
81
GATECRASHER BOXING DAY WHITE PARTY Gatecrasher Broad Street 26th December B15 1DA
NORTH WEST
SIXWAYS FRIGHT NIGHT AT THE MOVIES Sixways Stadium Worcester 13th December WR3 8ZE
BLACKPOOL ROCKS Winter Gardens Blackpool 21st December FY1 1HU
SOUTH
AQUATOPIA Tate Gallery St Ives 12 October 2013 – 26 January 2014 TR26 1TG ICE SKATING AT EDEN Eden Project St Ives 19 October – 02 March PL24 2SG MY GENERATION EXHIBITION: THE GLORY YEARS OF BRITISH ROCK Portsmouth Guildhall 4th November – 1st February PO1 2AB THE FIRST CUT – PAPER AT THE CUTTING EDGE SeaCity Museum Southampton 11th October – 12th January SO14 7FY WINTER WONDERLAND ILLUMINATIONS Drusillas Park Brighton 30th December – 5th January BN26 5QS
BUGGED OUT WEEKENDER 2014 Pontins Southport 18th -20th January PR8 2PZ CHRISTIAN DIOR DESIGNER IN FOCUS Manchester Gallery of Costume 12 June 2013 - 12 January 2014 M14 5LL DAVID HOCKNEY: EARLY REFLECTIONS Walker Art Gallery Liverpool 11th October – 17th March L3 8EL MAN VS FOOD Robinsons Brewery Visitors Centre Cheshire 17th December SK1 1JJ
NORTH EAST
THE ART SALE 2013 Queens Hall Hexam 7th - 31st December NE46 3LS
CANAL MILLS PRESENTS NYE WITH DISCLOSURE Canal Mills Leeds 31st December LS12 2ED A CELEBRATION OF SAVILE ROW AND WOOL CLOTH Bowes Museum Country Durham 21st September – 28th February DL12 8NP HUDDERSFIELD FESTIVAL OF LIGHT Huddersfield 6th -8th December Various venues YORKSHIRES WINTER WONDERLAND York Designer Outlet Fulford 23rd December – 5th anuary YO19 4TA
EUROPE
FRANCE
ALAÏA Musée Galliera 28th September – 26th January 2014 75116 Paris ERWIN BLUMENFELD (18971969) Jeu de Paume 17th October – 26th January 2014 75008 Paris EUROPUNK, UNE RÉVOLUTION ARTISTIQUE Cité de la Musique 17th October – 19th January 75019 Paris LES FÉERIES D’AUTEUIL (CHRISTMAS MARKET) 40 rue Jean de la Fontaine 7th - 15th December 75016 Paris
PATINOIRE DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE (ICE RINK), Place de l’Hôtel de Ville 18th December - 3rd March 75004 Paris
HOLLAND
538 JINGLE BALL Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 21st December 1101 Amsterdam
AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL FASHION WEEK Westergasfabriek January 2014 1014 Amsterdam AMERSTERSAM LIGHT FESTIVAL Various Venues 6th December -19th January HED KANDI NYE 2013 Oceandiva Piet Heinkade 35; 1019 Zeeburg 31st December 1019 Amsterdam WILLIAM KLEIN Keizersgracht 609 20th December – 12th March 1017 Amsterdam
SWEDEN GOTEBORG INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Gothenburg 24th January – 3rd February 2014 Various Venues ICE BAR STOCKHOLM, Vasaplan 4 Stockholm September 14 – May 8 101 37 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK STOCKHOLM Berns Stockholm 27th-29th January 103 27
THE OLD TOWN CHRISTMAS MARKET Stortorget Main Square 23rd November – 23rd December 111 29 POWER OF FASHION - 300 YEARS OF CLOTHING Nordiska Museet 1st January 2013 – 31st December 2013 115 93
GERMANY WEIHNACHTSMARKT VOR DEM SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG (Christmas Market) Charlottenburg Castle 25th Nov – 31st Dec 14059 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN A/W 2014 Bradenburger Tor 14th – 17th January 2014 10117 MUNICH FABRIC START S/S 2015 Munich Order Center (M,O,C) 4th – 6th February 80939 NEW YEARS EVE FIREWORKS AND STREET PARTIES Brandenburg Gate 31st December 10117 PERSISTAL SIGNUM: BERLIN’S LABRIYNTH BAR SALON ZUR WILDEN RENATE, Alt-Strahlau 70 Berlin Open Wednesday to Saturday, from 6pm to 10pm 10245 TRANSMEDIALE: FESTIVAL FOR ART AND DIGITAL CULTURE House of World Cultures Berlin January 31st - February 5th 10557
82
TEXT: JESS CALDERWOOD ILLUSTRATOR: LILLY COOPER
TAKETHETHRONE The Royal family represents the continuity of British tradition. Over the recent years, the British monarchy has grown, with the Duchess of Cambridge, and their new addition of Prince George. Kate Middleton has always been loyal to British heritage with regards to fashion. She wore Alexandra McQueen on both her wevdding day and christening of her son, a designer that was known for breaking boundaries, and supports the high street. They are the focus of a sense of patriotism and national identity, however there is a new surge of royalties. It is not dependent on your ancestors, but who you are. Today we have Icons, people who rule and command the same respect, so here is how to reign supreme.
YOUR IDENITY
TRAVEL THE WORLD
1
Today it is about global success, so experience the world and show people what you can offer. Meeting other Icons whist on your travels will only inspire your journey to royalty.
4
2
It’s not just about what you but who you are. Think about how you want to be known and build a brand upon that. You and your talent need to be admired by your followers.
3
YOUR CASTLE
Personal creative space is important; it is where the ideas are generated. It starts with a room you can call your own, and the Kingdom follows.
SILENCE IS GOLDEN
Instead of the HRH shouting about the birth of our future King, an easel in the forecourt of the Palace released the information. You must think before you speak, as you will be in the spotlight.
HAVE FUN
SHARE YOU WISDOM
Work hard, play harder! Your new found royalty does mean you have more responsibility and certain stress, so channel this into your creativity, and release it by letting your hair down.
The first stage of becoming an Icon is by having an original idea. It needs to contribute to transforming individual and collective experiences of the world. Sharing an innovative idea will become the crux to your success.
5
8
6
BE PASSIONATE
OPEN YOUR MIND
7
You need to embrace the change that is constantly happening around us, and use it to your advantage. The key is to never stop; the world won’t slow down for anyone, even you.
71
If you don’t believe in yourself, then who will? Be dedicated and love what you do. Be confident in what you are offering and people will follow.
9
RULES ARE MADE TO BE BROKEN Work hard, play harder! Your new found royalty does mean you have more responsibility and certain stress, so channel this into your creativity, and release it by letting your hair down.
TEXT: NATALIE CATHERINE BELL
MANIFESTO The Manifesto. A published declaration of intentions, opinions and motives of a particular group of people. At Juicebox our manifesto is ever-changing to the theme of the issue, quite like the world of design. This is by no means a forceful list of rules on how to live your life, though it may seem passive aggressive at times. However, we do not discourage following it religiously if you see fit. So this is our British Manifesto. Rule 1. Make like a touring circus, and adorn solely OTT sartorial choices with matching garish accessories for the ultimate self indulgent street style performance. Rule 2. There’s nothing wrong with channelling regality even if you reside in SAFF EAST LANDAN/Sheffield/Northampton or somewhere equally grim. Rule 3. The National sport is binge drinking, don’t let the team down. Rule 4. Yes, Charlotte from Geordie Shore has replaced Cheryl Cole as a ‘National Treasure’, No, it’s not a bad thing. Rule 5. Seek opportunities to invent and challenge convention (sorry, we needed a serious one). Rule 6. Have (try) to have a ‘zest’ for life, unless it’s raining, no zest. Rule 7. It’s okay to still feel emotional about the birth of Prince George. Rule 8. Always think creatively. Rule 9. It’s time to get off the Delevigne hype bus, and start reshaping those brows. Rule 10. Debating whether to dial 999 when discovering you’ve run out of tea is absolutely a legitimate reason to use the emergency services.
72