The meat issue. £ 6.50 / € 7.50 / $ 10.50
Britain’s favourite food has now become that much better
THE HAMBURGER Take a mini break to the land of style and gastronomic delights
TRAVEL TO BARCELONA Food trucks leaving their tire marks right across London
MEAT ON WHEELS Men step into the kitchen with more than just food on their minds
THE GASTRO SEXUAL MAN
Bread The Meat Issue. Summer 2012.
Bread The Meat Issue. Summer 2012.
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Contributors Words from the Editor
Food & Recipes Food for thought New York Style Recipies The New York Lime Cheesecake Lamb Verde The Manwich Coca-cola Pulled Pork Bun 10 Reasons to Eat your Meat The Ultimate Steak Manual How to Cook the Perfect Steak Around Town A food moment with: James Ramsden London Food Guide: The All American Diner The Diner Mishkins Spuntino Food Culture & Travel The Hamburger How to Burger Rate Food of the World Five Plates of Interest The Gastro Sexual Man CafĂŠ of the month: Shorditch Grind Eat this & travel: Barcelona Eat this, Try that Meat on Wheels Eat it. Tweet it. Book review for Cooks Absolute Gluttony
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CONTENTS
CONTRIBUTORS
Editor-in-Chief Phoebe Strapp Director of Art Paz Matinez Capuz Contributing Writers Natasha Slee Luiz Rodrigues Josh Walker Natayla Xavier Photography Cat Linton Rose Turner Phoebe Strapp Illustrations Joseph Prince 006
EDITORS NOTE
Here it is, the first issue of Bread magazine. With Britain in the midst of what they are calling a food renaissance, it seemed the perfect opportunity to offer Bread to the young foodie culture out there. Bread magazine is dedicated to discovering and inspiring a new edge to food journalism. Seeking and exciting, Bread is an agency for trends, taste, traditions and thoughts. What unites our contributors is their obsession and passion for the food industry as well as a strong dedication and enthusiasm for discovering.
This issue was inspired by meat as well as the influence of America’s food culture on Britain. By that, we are not referring to the fast food industry but more their delightful iconic food styles. From the heroic hamburger to the food truck industry that has a taken London by storm. Bread offers a range of New York inspired recipes as well as divulging the true secrets of the steak. With articles to inspire and photography to make those stomachs rumble, our determination is to leave you with the urge to discover more of Britain’s food delights.
Bread presents to you the following pages that are a celebration and a journey of our current food fixations.
Thank you for picking up the first issue of Bread, please wait patiently for seconds. Phoebe Strapp, Editor
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The coffee culture is unstoppable. In the last decade take away coffee has become a lucrative business. A study in Britain found that across the country the public are spending on average £15,000 in a lifetime on their favourite coffees. Avoiding the do it yourself at home coffee machines and forgetting the instant coffee, Britons, have become addicted to their take away latte’s and cappuccinos. Without realising it, this daily habit is working out to be an extremely expensive one. A general survey conducted found, that a daily coffee is one luxur y people are not willing to cut back on. Studies found that over half the population in Britain spend between £1 and £5 in coffee shops five days a week. Most people surveyed believed that they were not confident enough at home to recreate their coffee favourites and prefer the ease of take away. But this is more than just a caffeine addiction. A take away coffee has now become a ritual for many, so much so that so, that without their takeaway cup in one hand, their morning seems inadequate and incomplete. What seems like spare change at the time is adding up to be a lifetime investment.
STILL HUNGRY? YOU CAN EAT THE WRAPPER…
Imagine finishing off a packet of your favourite crisps, only to turn around and continue to consume the packaging as well. The sound of it does not seem appetizingly but it is being drummed up as the next big thing in food technology. Dr David Edwards from Harvard is known to many as a “food technology wizard” and has recently turned his attention to WikiCells, which is an edible membrane made from a biodegradable polymer and food particles that can imitate nature. He told the Harvard campus newspaper that he believes that anything edible with any flavour is possible to create. Although he believes that this unimaginable process is viable for future sales, it is hard to comprehend how willing the general public would be in eating their leftover wrappings. From a sustainable perspective it could potentially have a large impact on the reducing waste, a global crisis we are currently faced with. Rather than throwing your milk cartons away, you can enjoy them as an afternoon snack. Within the United Kingdom we currently create 6.6 million tonnes a year of food and drink packaging waste. This food technology revolution could be a major contributor helping saving the environment. The question is that after packaging, storage and handling would you eat your wrappers?
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY: ROSE TURNER
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Cheesecake
RECIPIES
If there ever were a cheesecake so phenomenal, this would be it. With its ever so fluffy, creamy and silky smooth centre, its perfectly ‘biscuity’ base and its surprisingly lime meringue topping, this cheesecake is worth every bite. Inspired by the world famous New York cheesecakes, this is an absolute crowd pleaser and Über easy to bake.
The Cheesecake: 350g Plain digestive biscuits 120g Unsalted butter, melted 900g Cream cheese, softened 150g Caster sugar 5 large eggs 5-6 Fresh Lime juice Meringue Topping: 3 large egg whites 110g Caster Sugar 40g Desiccated coconut (optional) Zest of 1 lime, finely grated
Start by greasing a 24cm spring-form tin with butter. Crush the biscuits into fine crumbs with either a food processor or crushing them up with a whacking them with a rolling pin. Melt the butter and add to a bowl, along with crushed up biscuit crumbs and combine them together. Pour the biscuit mix into the greased tin, making sure that they are spread out evenly. Finish by packing them down firmly with the back of a wooden spoon or the palm of your hands, making sure it is packed in well around the edge of the tin. Put the tin in the fridge to set while you continue on the cheesecake mixture. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Measure out the correct amount of cream cheese and dice it up then beat it until creamy smooth, making sure that the cream cheese is nice a soft. Add the sugar gradually to make sure it doesn’t clump. Once combined, add each egg separately, mixing thoroughly after each. Pour in the limejuice and beat until all ingredients are combined well, it should appear thin, light and smooth.
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Take the base out of the fridge and poor the cheesecake filling over the base and spread evenly over the top. Bake in the oven for fifty minuets. Once baked the cheesecake should still have a slight wobble in the centre. Leave it to cool and start on the meringue topping. Turn oven up to 220 degrees Celsius and separate the three eggs whites from their yolks. Put the egg whites into a new bowl with the sugar and beat on slow speed, then gradually increase the speed after a minuet. Once you have soft, glossy peaks your done. Gently fold in the coconut making sure you don’t loose the air out of those beaten eggs. Spoon the meringue evenly onto the cooled cheesecake and bake for five minuets until the meringue is golden and firm. Last step is placing the cheesecake in the fridge for two hours to firm before serving. Finish by grating the zest of a lime.
Lamb Verde
1 rack of lamb 1 potted parsley plant 2 big handfulls of fresh chives 2 tablespoons of capers 6 anchovies 1 tblsp dijon mustard 1 clove garlic 1/2 an egg yolk Small pinch of rock salt
Every true Brit loves a Sunday roast. This rack of lamb with salsa Verde is one of the easiest things to make, it looks impressive and tastes incredible. Roast a lamb and pile it on top of buttery, mustard mash and summer greens. However, it would be equally delicious thrown on the barbie and served with salted new potatoes, fresh salad and cocktails. It’s up to you... and the Great British weather. It is best cooked with the meat pink, or still wriggling if at all possible. Some people don’t feel like it this way, so please, feel free to adjust the cooking times to suit you. Start by cooking up some mash potato. Don’t think directions are needed. Grab all of your ingredients, minus the lamb and put them in your processer. If you don’t have a blender, just use a pestle and mortar or chop everything as finely as you can and mix together. Whizz together, until you have a beautifuly fragrant, green gloop. Take your meat and pour on some of your salsa, and rub it all over. Once it’s entirely covered, wrap it up in some clingfilm and leave to relax. It needs a minimum of 30mins, but can be left over night in the fridge. If you leave it in the fridge, remove it 30mins before you cook it so the meat comes back to room temp. Pre-heat your oven to 230°C, with your pan or dish inside, getting nice and hot. When it’s heated, remove the dish and place the lamb in, skin down. This should sizzle and steam a little.
Enjoy the smell, it should be fantastic. Pop it straight into the oven. Roast for about 16-20 minuets, depending on how rare you like it. (Remember it will continue to cook as it rests, so don’t worry if it’s a little bloodier than you want.) Remove from the oven and cover with tin foil and a couple tea towels. The meat needs to rest for roughly the same time as it was roasted for. While it does this, make your mash. Stir through a generous teaspoon of your favourite mustard, lots of butter and a big glug of cream. Cut it into individual chops, and serve. Scoop a little of your salsa Verde ontop….and devour.
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There are some days where you just want something mean. Something rough, tough & utterly satisfying. This is where The Manwich steps in.
The Manwich Definition of the Manwich: Two large hunks of crusty fresh bread, surrounding gooey melting cheese, thick succulent steak, peppery rocket & lashings of mustard. Eaten with two hands. Not to be shared. Enjoyed by hearty men or particularly naughty women. It is the hero of all sandwiches.
Loaf of crusty bread preferably sourdough Boursin Cheese Chedder Cheese Sirloin Streak at room temperature Fresh Rocket Hot English Mustard
Begin by heating up a griddle pan until it’s seriously hot. When it starts to smoke you’ll know it’s ready. Splash in a dash of olive oil and a knob of butter and spread around the pan. Dust your steaks with good quality sea salt and lay them in your pan. Your sirloins should have lots of lovely fat marbled through them, so they should absorb up the oil and butter. Let the fat from the steak do the work. Flip your steak every 30 seconds (more or less), this insures even cooking & the outside will begin to caramelise. How long you cook your steak for will depend on how you like your steak: Rare: 4-5mins Medium: 6-7mins Well done: 8-10mins It is time now to sprinkle your steak with a little pepper and slice using a very sharp knife. After slicing your bread, place the rocker on one side and then lay the slices on top of to your rocket. Top with your grated cheddar. Slather the top piece of bread in mustard and boursin cheese and place it on top. Serve with your drink of choice and enjoy. If this doesn’t satisfy you, nothing will.
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Coca-Cola Pulled Pork Bun
Pork Ingredients:
BBQ meat is one of the biggest food trends in London right now.
Pork racks of ribs
Places like Pitt Cue have people queuing around the block and street food
Coca Cola
vendors are serving up mind blowing pork & beef buns all over town.
1 Jar of BBQ sauce
But what if you want some of this succulent meaty goodness at home? Well you’d have to spend hours over a hot stove, adding bits and pieces to a
Ingredients to serve:
complex recipe and sweating as you felt the pressure to get the meaty texture
Bread buns
just perfect... right?
1 Jar of pickles
Wrong.
1 Jar of red cabbage
This recipe is your new best friend and a must try. Three ingredients are all you need for a rootin’ tootin’ good meal.
Use a slow cooker for this recipe. If you throw this all together in the morning, it should be just perfect by suppertime. Cut your ribs into manageable chunks, so that they fit into your pot. Put them into the bottom with your cooker on ‘low’. Pour in your bbq sauce & enough Coke to almost cover them all. Put your lid on, and leave it well alone for at least 6 hours. Go check on it after about 6 hours. Give it a stir & if you want a bit of a kick, add a few splashes of your favourite hot sauce & cover it all up again. Leave it bubbling away until you’re ready to eat. When you are, put a sieve over a large bowl. Pour your meat & juices into it.
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Carefully pick out all of the rib bones, they should slide away from the meat pretty perfectly by now. Pop all of your meat back into the cooker & add a few tablespoons of your left over sauce. Stir it around & break up some of the bigger chunks of meat. Cover it up while you get your buns ready. Slice your buns in half, grate or slice your pickles and crack that jar of cabbage open. Pile your fillings into your buns. Serve solo or with your favourite chips & an icecold beer. There you have it! 3 ingredient pulled pork that will knock your socks off. It should come out golden, chewy & gooey.
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10 Reasons To Eat Your Meat Some say that if our ancestors had not eaten meat, we wouldn’t have evolved as far as we have now. Others say that within particular areas on the planet where inhabitants have the longest lifespan, it is because their diets revolve around meat. Meat has the power to cause a lot of controversy, especially when it comes to our health. Often we feel uncertain about what meat we should eat and how often, as new studies are constantly arising about the implications or benefits from eating meat. Whoever is saying what, one thing is for sure. It is good to clear the plate and serve you up 10 reasons why it is important to eat your meat. Words by Josh Walker.
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1. PROTEIN
Seeing as how the word ‘protein’ comes from the Greek word meaning “to hold first place”, it becomes obvious how important it really is. Protein is essential for the body’s growth, repair, and general all round maintenance. Luckily meat is packed full of protein, so it is the ideal way of getting your daily dose of protein.
2. AMINO ACIDS
The goodness of protein doesn’t just stop there. To build the proteins found in the body, you need 22 amino acids. Seeing as how the body can only produce 13 without any help, the rest need to come from somewhere else. It’s a good job animal protein contains these other nine essential amino acids. This allows protein to build up in the body, which advocates weight loss, muscle activity, and increase in energy levels as well as helping fight illness and disease.
3. B-EAUTIFUL VITAMINS
With various types of vitamins out there it’s hard to know which does what. B vitamins are the ones that help you produce energy from the food you are eating. Eating your meat is the perfect source for getting your vitamin B.
4. IT’S HUMAN
We have instincts, we’re primal and funnily enough we like to eat meat. Hunting and eating meat traces back to the start of human life on earth. It is a natural form of sustenance and has allowed humans to evolve to the extent we have. That makes it a pretty great advocate for human growth both physically and mentally. Having been a part of our diet since the very beginning, it’s one of the best and most traditional things we could ever consume.
5. OMEGA-3 – THE HEALTHY FAT
Although commonly found in fish and seafood, Omega-3 is present in grass-fed red meat and is an essential in your body’s growth. Known as ‘the healthy fat’, it’s also been said to prevent and help treat coronary artery disease, arthritis and cancer. Get those steaks sizzling.
6. BEATING STRESS
Following a recent study, the McGill University in Canada have claimed that just looking at red meat helps reduce stress in men. Strange as it may seem, it explains the strange love between a man and his steak. So the next time you’re feeling strained after a long day, get yourself some juicy red meat and allow your brain and right calm down.
7. BEATING DEPRESSION
Red meat may ease the stress and strain of men but rest assured the women are not left out. A study at the Deakin University in Australia has proved that women, who consumed less than the recommended amount of red meat, had a higher chance of gaining depression. So much to their chances could double. Eating meat will bring smiles all round.
8. ZINC
Minerals are what makes your body work properly and like vitamins, it’s difficult to know which are best. Rest assured that Zinc is one of the top. Known to knock a day off your cold and boost your immune system, it’s also good for your skin and hair. Studies have even shown that it has positive effects on your sense of taste and smell.
9. IRON
Seeing as how Iron produces red blood cells, which then carry oxygen around the body, it’s another mineral that’s pretty important. Meat not only offers an amazing source of iron, but in particular Heme iron, which is the type most easily absorbed by the body. If your not eating your meat, your whole mood can seriously slumped.
10. HORMONES
There’s an array of positive hormones released through consuming different, good food and having a healthy, balanced diet can make the world of difference to your mood. When it comes to red meat, it’s Dopamine that’s rushed through our bodies. Not only does it keep you mentally alert, it helps produce happy hormones, making your mindset a positive one.
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THE ULTIMATE
STEAK MANUAL THE STEAK IS A TRUE MEAT LOVER’S OBSESSION, GRATIFICATION AND INDULGENCE. RIGHT NOW IN BRITAIN, BEEF HAS BEEN REDISCOVERED AND IS CRAZILY FASHIONABLE. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE IN KNOW ABOUT THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF A COW AND HOW EACH BIT OF MEAT APPEARS, TASTES AND COOKS, WELL DONE YOU’RE CURRENTLY ON MEAT TREND. FOR THOSE WHO AREN’T SO FAMILIAR, WE PRESENT TO YOU ‘THE ULTIMATE STEAK MANUAL.’ FEAST YOUR EYES AND REDISCOVER HOW GOOD BEEF IS AND JOIN THE ZEAL OF BORN AGAIN BEEF BELIEVERS.
The steak is the ultimate meat dish. It can be a subject of debate and potential disappointment, but when cooked to perfection it is none other than brilliant. To avoid disastrous situations from occurring we sought out the advice from a prime-cut expert Charlotte Harbottle from O’Shea butchery in Knightsbridge to reveal all you need to know about everything steak.
RIB EYE
because of the bone. It is also important to look out for higher fat content in the meat as well, the perfect prime rib should be a deep brown colour.” Usually you will get a prime rib weighing a lot more than the other cuts because of the bone. Prime Rib is best cooked in the oven, so treat it like a roast. You want it to have the perfect brown crust but full of juiciness in the centre.
Known for its being fatty and flavoursome, this is one of the most popular cuts of steak. It is the high marble of fat running through the steak that gives it all that rich flavour. “It is usually around an inch in thickness and should be cooked four minuets each side for the perfect medium rare cook. It is best cooked on a grill or for bbq-ing.”
SIRLOIN
“When purchasing your rib eye steak be picky. Choose the one with the most marble in it as well as a good rind of fat running along the top.” The rib eye is from the fore-rib area of the cow, usually has no bone and the fat factor is the huge appeal to this steak.
“This cut of meat is from the area between the rib and fillet. It is such a popular choice in steak and should be cooked the same way as a rib eye.”
PRIME RIB The prime rib is a section of meat taken from any of the ribs. It is usually bigger is size as it is cooked on the bone. “It is known for being a superb steak when it is well aged and usually has a lot more flavor than other meat cuts
If your watching your weight or you are particularly health conscious the sirloin steak is the way to go. “Sirloin is the leaner of the steaks, because it lacks in fat. It still has a great flavour and the great thing about sirloin is you can be more generous with a rich béarnaise sauce.”
RUMP Known as the ‘real man’s’ steak, it is an excellent steak bursting with flavour if you buy it well aged. “This is my favourite steak cut. It is cut from the middle of the rump. Again it is cooked the same way as a rib eye about 4 minuets each side for a medium rare cook, but the most important thing is how the meat 020
is cut. I would always serve it up sliced.”
FILLET & CHATEAUBRIAND Fillet, the priciest of all the meat cuts. You should be wary that you are likely to spend over £50 per kilogram. Unlike the other steaks, “you should ensure that it is not aged, in this case the younger the better.” “Personally as a butcher, I find this a very over rated cut of steak, there is not that much flavour. It is known for being leanness and being low in fat content.” This steak is ideal to add lots of rich flavour too, such a bone marrow or strong garlic butter. “To cook medium rare is should take 9 minuets each side. Try not to overcook, as it really will dry out.
PORTERHOUSE & T BONE There is not much of a difference between these two cuts of meat. Both of them are part sirloin and part fillet. The T-bone obviously derives its name from the ‘T’ style bone through the fillet of the steak. “It is the best of both worlds with the T-bone and Poterhouse because you get that flavour off the bone. The combination of sirloin and fillet is really a marriage made in heaven and with bone flavour and some fat running through.” Normally served larger in size it also takes longer to cook so will be naturally rarer than other meat cuts.
FOOD GUIDE
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How To Cook The Perfect Steak Under the list of things that one must master in kitchen alongside cooking a perfect soft-boiled egg, is the matter of mastering the perfect steak. Charlotte Harbottle a leading butcher from O’Share butchery in Knightsbridge helps divulge the simple secrets of how to sizzle up a heavenly steak.
STEP ONE: CHOOSE THE MEAT Select the meat you want to cook with, often it is a personal choice, but often rib eye or sirloin is the most flavoursome because they are so rich in fat content. It is worth taking the time to select the right meat, making sure that there is clear marbling of fat throughout the steak. All that amazing flavour pours out from the fat, so choosing the right meat is key. For a guaranteed excellent steak, always choose an older age rib eye. STEP TWO: PREPARE The preparation can be crucial, but can also be rectifiable if not prepared correctly. Let the meat sit for a while until it is at room temperature, then season it. Rub the steak with a good amount of a high quality olive oil and then season it with plenty of salt and a coarsely ground pepper.
starts smoking turn it down because you want to avoid burning. Most butchers and chefs would suggest cooking the steak three to four minuets each side if it were about an inch thick for a medium rare finish. But if you wish for it to be cooked through further, just make sure you consistently turn the steak over for an even cook. You want to see a really crispy exterior with a bit of caramelisation on the meat. Watch the steak sizzle away and enjoy the flavours oozing out from the mouth-watering meat as it grills. If the meat is really thick it is best to pop the whole pan into the oven for about 8 minuets for it to cook through.
STEP FOUR: LEAVE TO REST This step is usually left out when cooking a steak, as many people are unaware of its importance. It is essential that you leave the steak rest for five to ten minuets. This If you want to ooze out the best flavour possible from the steak, then blast the pan allows for the heat to soak into the centre of the meat. This is time for the meat to up to full heat. Take a pair on tongs and sear the fat running the length of the steak relax and enables all those delicious juices until it is lovely and crisp, and has rendered to start flowing out as well as a consistent cook all the way through the steak. into the pan. This allows for the pan to be full of flavour before cooking, as well as STEP FIVE: SERVING UP TIME bringing a bit of warmth to the steak. Simply pop the steak onto a plate and then spoon over the juices from the pan. STEP THREE: START SIZZLING Adding extra ingredients to the steak is Firstly, keep that pan hot but if the pan 022
another matter of personal taste. For the best flavour leave it simple, steaks have a phenomenal taste why spoil it with overpowering ingredients. Simply pepper, salt and great English mustard is what works best. THE 10 STEAK COMMANDMENTS Make sure you get your steak right. Follow these rules and things will be hunky-dory. 1. Find a good, honest butcher. 2. Refrigerate the steak in its paper on a plate, not plastic. 3. Cook over griddle pan that should be smoking hot. 4. Start by cooking the steak only when it is at room temperature. 5. Season the steak with salt and pepper just before you cook it. Be generous. 6. A good steak shouldn’t need oil, but if you insist, apply it to the steak, not the pan or the grill. 7. A medium-rare steak is four minuets each side and a well-done steak must be finished in the oven. 8. Leave the steak to rest in a nice warm place to drip those juices out. 9. Don’t be afraid of being picky when choosing the right steak. Go for a wellaged steak with plenty of marbling. 10. Enjoy your steak that you have prepared and cooked with loving care.
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James Ramsden Up and coming food writer and blogger James Ramsden, is making his name as a young foodie by releasing his first cookbook and continuing his successful supperclub restaurant. Bread sits down with James to discuss his passions and future pursuits.
WHAT AGE DID YOU START COOKING? I started cooking from a very young age, insofar as you can call licking the cake mix off the spoon cooking. But I was 14 when I first started cooking more ambitious things. It was at that age I realised that this was not just an activity but something I wanted to take seriously. The passion arose when I started cooking meals for the family at a young age. WHO HAS INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING? Oh, loads of people. My mum of course, Eileen Buchanan, who taught me when I was 14, Darina Allen, Nigel Slater…it’s a long list. I think you pick things up from everywhere when you’re into food, if only subconsciously. As long as I can remember I have been trying and testing things for myself that is what I think creates your own cooking style. HOW IMPORTANT ARE MEALTIMES TO YOU? Very. I’ve never been known to skip a meal. It’s not good for you and it buggers up the day. One of my biggest frustrations is people skipping breakfast. It is the most important meal of the day and you can cook up so many delicious things.
WHO DO YOU MOST ADMIRE AND WHY? In a cookery sense? I suppose I admire Jamie Oliver for his dedication and I have genuine belief in what he does. Jamie Oliver is a character that pursues things because he is so passionate about changing the food culture not only in the UK but globally. He is so dedicated and he works purely from the heart. I admire that so much… oh and Nigel Slater is always admirable in many respects. LET’S TALK SUPPERCLUBS, HOW IMPORTANT IS THE CULTURE OF SHARING FOOD? To me sharing meals is a vital part of mealtime. Maybe it is how I grew up but I see it as a very simple and primal form of bonding with someone that you don’t get in any other area of life. We are so stressed and busy throughout the day, meal times are so important in giving you that time out. Sharing food with people and sharing the stories of your day come hand in hand. WHAT MADE YOU START UP YOUR OWN SUPPERCLUB? I’d always liked the idea of doing something along those lines and then we moved into a flat that had the space just as the supper club thing was taking off and it all seemed to make sense.
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We’re always into novelty when it comes to food. I also think people are now drawn to relaxed dining experiences that still offer great tasting, comfort food. I thought it was a great way to share my cooking with people without starting my own restaurant as such. WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE HAVE TAKEN TO SUPPERCLUBS SO STRONGLY? It’s a more interesting way of spending your dinner money than in a homogenous restaurant. It is a new experience, visiting someone’s home, meeting new people, sharing a home cooked meal, it is far from your typical restaurant evening. I think it is great that it is challenging the conventional way of eating out. WHAT’S HAS BEEN ONE OF THE MOST MEMORABLE SUPPERCLUBS NIGHTS & WHY? Good question. There’ve been too many, but probably the one when my sister Mary got stuck in the bathroom for two hours. But there have been too many memorable nights to count. The great thing with these evenings is you never know what mix of people are going to turn up at your door. Some of my most hilarious moments have been experienced during a Supperclub night. Things don’t always go to plan, its fantastic.
WHAT’S ON NEXT FOR YOU? My new recipe book is in early stages at the moment. Should be out some time next year. My aspirations are really just to keep writing and seeing where it goes. With food there is always something new to experience. I just get such an incredible buzz from creating something great to read. I think food is such an exciting thing to write about and to share with people. I find it rewarding taking a little bit from places I go, cultures I experience and people I learn from and creating great food out of that. It is something that I know I will never tire of. HOW DO YOU THINK FOOD CULTURE HAS BEEN INFLUENCED BY INCREASE IN FOOD JOURNALISM AND FOOD BLOGGERS? Bloggers have the ability to nudge things forward. Just look at what’s happened with burgers recently. This overhype of the burger is purely to do with the power of bloggers spreading the word. My hunch is that food in this country was never as bad as we like to think it was and probably isn’t quite as good now as we think it is. With more food journalist out there and more people becoming involved and obsessed with food, I think that itself has changed the food scene, not so much the quality.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANT AROUND LONDON? It changes all the time, but I’ve never had a bad meal at El Parador in Camden. My pals’ restaurant, the 10 Cases is great fun, I love all the Polpo restaurants, Spuntino being my favourite and places like Terroirs. Put me somewhere unfussy with good food and decently priced wine and I’m happy. But I prefer finding great street food at the moment rather than dining at restaurants. I love the booming street food movement happening at the moment. Weekends are a great time to go and hunt down some food trucks or search through markets for some fantastically fresh food. I love the falafels at Hoxton Beach and the burgers at Lucky Chip. Can’t beat a good burrito, either. It doesn’t surprise me how long the ques are at these places.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: STEVEN JOYCE
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR COOKING STYLE? Informal, loose, adaptable, undogmatic. My moto is always cook with wine, it adds a punch to food. I want my recipes to be something that everyone can try and be inspired to cook. If there is one thing I would like to achieve from all of this is pushing forward family and friends dining together everyday. That culture is reemerging. Cooking doesn’t need to be complex.
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A FOOD MOMENT WITH
THE ALL AMERICAN
DINER
London’s food style is drastically changing. Once known for their Michelin star restaurants and finer dining, there is now an escalation in trendy, relaxed and understated eating out destinations. What we are witnessing is a migration of American themed restaurants building a roaring trade on the streets of Britain. Styled around the iconic American Diner, this new culture of ‘grabbing a bite to eat’ is what this food revolution is about. These effortlessly cool restaurants are the new ‘it’ places to be seen at.
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AROUND TOWN
Cosy red booths, high stool chairs, loud music, fat pancakes and a double thick vanilla milkshake. The American diner is a symbol of large portions, black coffee, 1960’s America and a roadside meeting place. The diners of yesteryear were an asset to people with little money where they could find a cheap bite to eat and confined in a conversation with a stranger. It was place people from all walks of life, all just with one thing in common, their love for the diner atmosphere. That same atmosphere travels with the diners today. “It should be a place people feel at ease and is entirely effortless,” says Steve from the Diner Soho. When we think about diners, we trace back to the food we loved as children, the milkshake that we would only ever be aloud on special occasions and corn dogs that we use to eat mistakenly just before we jumped onto a rollercoaster. The thick pancakes with clotted cream and excessive amounts of maple syrup that left us with sticky hands and aching stomachs or the hamburger that more often than not was bigger than our faces and impossible to eat. The diner hits a nostalgic string with most of us that even the thought of it brings a cheeky smile to our faces. Culturally and historically the diner is about quick cheap fast food. It’s not too far fetched to consider that the recession has played a major part in the renewal of these restaurants. “Younger people are looking for a new experience in eating out,” says Steve. “With the recession people are no longer inclined to eat at upmarket restaurants and as a result we have seen a boom in really cool, laid back, low key, comfort food eating out.” It is the 20 to 30 year olds that have had a huge influence on London’s current restaurant scene. Although tightening their belts, they are still willing to spend a significant part of their disposable incomes on things that matter and to them, eating out is still vital part to their daily lives. Along with recession and the pressure from London’s young foodies, new pop up, fashionable, lively diner type restaurants are in high demand. “London food culture is really finding itself again,” says Simon from Burger Anarchy. “It is the time of the independent restaurants and this could see the Michelin star restaurants suffering. It is no longer about perfect food. It is about great tasting food, dirty fun and an energetic restaurant with music
so loud you can’t hear the couple next to you.” Diners around London are offering just that, whether you go for the authentic experience or a more understated American influenced joint, it’s all about the dimmed lighting, basic cutlery, scratched and dinted plates, paper table mats and great greasy food. These places have become so thriving it is almost impossible not to be waiting in a long queue just to be seated. “Fondly enough, what surprises me is that people are willing to wait for an hour to be seated,” says David from Spuntino. “I think people like being part of a queue, feeling like they are going to eat something great.” Spuntino has people queuing from 6 o’clock onwards with the wait quickly entering the hour zone, people are still keen to wait. Many of these diner restaurants like Spuntino or Miskins are extremely nonchalant in appearance and rely on the word of mouth, which makes these types of diners more of a novelty experience. On the other hand, there are the true blue diner experiences such as The Diner Soho, Ed’s Easy and Fatboy’s diner that have you stepping into a time warp. “At the Diner we love to create the true atmosphere of the all American Diner,” says Steve. “We play everything from classic rock to 50’s and 60’s swing music. We like the make conversation with our customers and serve up food the way it was, like milkshakes in the classic large metal shake cups.” Picking up the extensive menus is an overwhelming experience of excitement. You feel a rush of cheekiness overcome you as you prepare yourself to indulge in the ultimate of great quality ‘junk’ food. The trickiest part of dining at these all American diners is choosing the right thing to eat as you realise, you can’t possibly eat everything. London is in a surge of American influenced food. Its not that is wasn’t here before, it is just now that people are recognising it. “All other food in the UK has got progressively better, and burgers and American cuisine in general is the epitome of comfort food,” says Simon from the Burger Anarchy. “Burgers really represent that, but everything else has been getting bigger too: hot dogs are back, we’re seeing sliders in London, proper American BBQ is getting popular.”
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THE
DINER If you are craving a good hard hit of the classic all American diner, this is the place. Extremely popular this restaurant prides itself on its extensive menu that covers every diner dish imaginable – Plus more if you are aware of the specials menu via Twitter. For a hard-hitting alcoholic milkshake The Diner does it just right. With the ideal red booth, classic 50’s and 60’s diner tunes, red lighting and chequered floors, the atmosphere is just right. The key is to turn up on the verge of starvation because you will need all the room possible.
The pancakes are thick, perfectly golden topped with ice-cream, maple syrup, plus anything imaginable. The glorious and rather overwhelming aspect of The Diner is its rather extensive menu. If ever in doubt, go with a fabulously meaty, juicy hamburger and chilli fries. Although the food is outrageously bad for you, sometimes we all need to bring out the child inside of us and indulge on some great greasy good. This is a perfect restaurant to visit with a big crowd because it means the more dishes you can order and try. Served up in basic red plastic bowls, lined with greaseproof paper, you feel right in your element to just dig in. Don’t forget that in the tradition of a great American diner, endless coffee is available. 18 Ganton Street London, W1F 7BU 0871 960 9975
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SOHO
z Mishkins z COVENT GARDEN Mishkin’s is the latest venture of sassy diner restaurants in London. From the same team behind Polpo and Spuntino it bills itself as “The Jewish Deli Diner.” The décor is what you wish a real New York diner stilled looked like, with redbrick walls, black and white checkerboard floor, big leather red booths and 1970’s wallpaper. The evenings are buzzing with a cosmopolitan trendy atmosphere. The music’s up and the lights are down, to say it is busy is an understatement. People queue up outside the faux-30’s frontage with half net curtains. This new diner establishment is for the cosmopolitan types with a love for oldschool New York deli food – the salt beef really says it all. Although it labels itself as a Jewish restaurant it is not exactly kosher. If you want to break the rules, you may as well go all the way and order one of the famous Big Apple Hot Dogs, it is worth falling off the pork wagon for. The cod cheek popcorn with lime & jalapenos are the perfect mix of comfort, spice & citrus. You can’t go past the half n’ half (half fries half onion rings) and the garden green’s as your sides.
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This diner is a keeps true to tradition. It is diner you will visit once and return to and keep returning too guarantee. Mishkin’s is full of life, noise and clatter which feel just right. 25 Catherine Street, London, WC2B 5 (020) 7240 2078
Spuntino
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: CAT LINTON
SOHO
This laid-back, offhand restaurant is unrecognisable form the outside. It is safe to say you have walked past this diner plenty of times without noticing it. It prides itself on being causal, understated and informal. Spuntino comes to life at night. With people queuing outside, bypasses can’t help but stare into the restaurant, wondering what all the fuss is about. Extremely dimmed lighting coming from the dangling lights, no tablecloths, it is all about the American style finger food. And the food is…wow. The small diner with a u-shaped counter is effortlessly cool. Everything from the walls to the plating have distressed grudge feel about them. The anonymous frontage with the name scribbled to one side, makes it feel as though it’s a pop up diner. There is no telephone number, no reservations. You have to know what it is to know what it is. It is all about word of mouth.
The food is outstanding and almost indescribable. It is safe to say anything you order on the menu will be delicious. The truffle egg toast is their most wanted item, served as one thick slab of white bread layered with melted cheese and smeared with truffle oil and in the middle a leaking egg yolk. You can feel your cholesterol in overload as you eat it but it’s worth every bite. The sliders are also a must when you go. A three bite burgers in a soft white bun, with a unique Spuntino spin on the burger fillings. Ground beef with nuggets of bone marrow, lamb with pickled cucumber or a hunk of salt beef with dill pickle and mustard. Just… Incredible. To finish order a coffee black, served to you in a rustic tin mug. The coffee is bold and rich and the perfect way to end the meal. This trendy, underrated diner is a must. It is by far one of the coolest places to be in London right now. 61 Rupert Street London W1. No booking.
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Introducing you to the luxury hamburger. Made from an organic beef patty rich in fatty juices and seasoned to perfection. The juices soak into the freshest bun with a soft pillowy interior and a perfectly seeded crisp top. The cheese immaculately folds over the burger patty and the salty bacon sits between the crispy lettuce and juicy tomato. It is heart wrenchingly irresistible. A twister of iconic American food has hit London recently and has eager Britons scrambling to find the next great burger truck or swanky undiscovered restaurant serving up hard-core burgers. Many restaurants, high or low end, have given the iconic grub food, aka the hamburger, a contemporary twist by altering size, style and fillings. There’s MEATliquor for example, which within no time became the restaurant to be seen queuing outside in rain, hail or shine. Originally known as the Meatwagon burger truck, it has now become a burger institution, serving up the ultimate grub food.
The Admiral Codrington, Lucky Chip, Burger and Lobster and Honest Burger. Those names should have two reactions. Either you are completely baffled or your mouth has started to drool. If you are unaware of the current burger boom happening around the country, you are truly missing out. This big burger movement is happening away from the high street chains, in places that have reinvented the burger as an intoxicatingly tender and mind-blowing juicy trip to gastronomic paradise. The hamburger originated as a comfort food. It originally became big in the United States as a staple item within all diners restaurants across the country. Although Germany claims the hamburger as theirs, it was the American culture that created the great burger boom. It quickly became the icon of fast food chain stores such as McDonalds and Burger King. “They became so accessible because of their fuss free nature, you could grab a burger to go in some greaseproof paper and drive on,” says Tom from Byron Burger. “In the UK, you could arguably say it began with the introduction of McDonald’s in the 1970s, and has ebbed and flowed ever since,” says Simon from the popular hamburger blog ‘Burger Anarchy’. As we gradually move through history the hamburger has become more accessible from the rise in fast food chains and the burger itself increasing in size. Unfortunately now often the image we associate with the obesity epidemic. “What’s interesting about the hamburger,” says Simon, 038
“are different connotations associated with it. In one aspect the burger can be grotesque, discoloured, tasteless and unappetizing. On the other hand it is in fashion (in culinary terms), it is marvelled and praised as a ‘must eat before you die item’ and has no affiliation with it’s fast food family.” After chowing down endless hamburgers you realise that each burger is an individual. They have their own personalities, to which it becomes extremely difficult to compare one exceptional burger to the next. After every mouth full, a new unusual variation, a new sensational taste and a new personality. This could be predominantly why London is in the grip of a burger-mania. Bloggers and their
followers swarm the streets of London in search of the perfect patty, interested to see how the burger has been once again transformed and bettered. The top burger restaurants and trucks in London have quickly infiltrated into the
THE HAMBURGER. ORIGINALLY KNOWN AS THE ICON OF THE FAST FOOD INDUSTRY, THE HAMBURGER HAS NOW TRANSFORMED INTO A VISION OF REFINED PERFECTION AND OBSESSION. IT IS FASCINATING HOW THE ONCE GRILLED BEEF PATTY IN A BASIC SOGGY BUN HAS HAD COMPLETE OVERHAUL AND NOW SENDING BRITAIN INTO HAMBURGER FRENZY. BREAD UNCOVERS HOW THE HAMBURGER HAS METAMORPHOSED INTO A SECRET PLEASURE OF EVERY GASTRONOME IN BRITAIN. bloggers sphere, to the point where you wonder what all the fuss is about, but at the same time, you feel like your are missing out on something truly superior. “It’s not that they’re a delicacy per se. Burgers are universally available across the world. That abundance makes the hunt for good ones much more interesting,” says burger blogger Simon. “Most foodies love dirty fast food as much as the high end stuff. Good burgers will always bring people together. But there’s also been a trend in ‘high-end’ food becoming less fashionable, and the more standard stuff becoming much more accessible.” Burger cynics claim that this is a phase, fuelled by a recession-induced yearning for comfort food and this current culinary fashion trend will not last long. However, the marvel of the luxury burger has turned heads and made people reassess their burger stereotypes. The hamburger has now transcended onto every menu in the land and is almost always seductively irresistible. “Right now, we’re definitely in the most productive phase of burger evolution,” says Simon. “The elevation of something simple and cheap into something special has natural appeal,” says Tom from the burger institute Byron. “It is undeniable that everyone loves a burger as it is the perfect comfort food. But until 5 years ago frankly the London market just didn’t do them very well. There has been a huge shift in knowledge about hamburgers mainly driven by closer understanding and knowledge of the US market. Such shifts have produced some outstanding burgers and quality everywhere has improved. Social media has accelerated word of mouth and interest.” It is the era of the pop up everything and right now it is about the burger pop ups that are big. It is all about the meat, bun and cheese, every time. Got those three things right and there’s not many ways you can go wrong.
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MEATLIQUOR, MAYFAIR
LUCKY CHIP TRUCK, BROADWAY MARKET
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: CAT LINTON
Recently dubbed by the Evening Standard as ‘The capital’s hippest hang out.’ MEATliquor is the trendiest burger place to hit London. “We have really created our own particular brand of Meaty Mayhem,” says Gemma Mc Aloon from MEATtliquor. “We aim to be different and I definitely think we are. We often describe ourselves as a family restaurant but a rather dysfunctional family. We took what was learned from the Meateasy truck and taken it to the next level in all accounts.”
If you think you are just visiting a food truck for a cheeky hamburger, think again. This Hamburger van is more than just a dine n’ dash. It is worth leaving plenty of time to pitch up at the silver and green truck, queue for your burger and then see it away while sitting on the miscellaneous wooden chairs scattered around Netil vintage market. The East London market itself is rather nondescript but there are crafts, vintage stalls and delicious baked things to munch down if there is any stomach room left.
Although you have to queue from around 6 o’clock onwards, the queue moves relatively fast and it is worth any wait. With a gloomy, shocking and explicit aesthetic, you feel as though you are in a whole new world. With illustrations and graffiti paint across the walls that resemble a mix between pornographic meets country western. It is unquestionably trendy. With the dim lighting and packed out by young and hip crowd, enjoying the loud rock soundtrack and skull-tingling strong cocktails. You feel, as though you are part of a unique underground experience, they don’t even hand out cutlery, all you have is conventional roll of kitchen paper. Choosing which hamburger to murder is the tricky part. The “Dead Hippie” cheeseburger ended up being the obvious choice. It is true indulgence of grub food. Served up in plastic bowls lined with greaseproof paper it is the epitome of basic dining. Tables are packed with ravenous diners with their hands clasped around these sloppy burgers, utterly enjoying this extravagantly cool experience.
Lucky Chip’s hamburgers are insanely good. Although they serve up Chili, Rude Dogs and Lucky Chip’s Naked, none are as good as the hamburgers themselves. This truck is all about the burgers, burgers and the side fries. As you wait impatiently in line you can see the patties sizzling away and the smell of the burgers wafts over, both of which are deliciously unbearable. All the cooking makes your mouth drip and your stomach rumble. This has clearly become a burger institution as you notice the regulars greeting the chefs by name and then walking away with an assortment of hamburgers. Although the menu changes, there are still some staple regulars such as the single with cheese, being dangerously simple it is a winner every time. Although not a restaurant, it is a weekend frontrunner for a great burger fix. There is no such thing as an overrated burger around these parts.
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BURGER AND LOBSTER, GREEN PARK This American inspired restaurant has received a lot of attention recently, for two reasons, its reasonably priced lobster but its expensive burgers. The originally name Burger and Lobster has the feel of a pop up restaurant due to its limited food menu, only serving up three options. Option one is a big, stonking beast of grilled lobster, dripping with lemon butter. Option two is a big juicy cheeseburger served in a brioche bun and bursting with flavour. Or finally a sweet toasted brioche bun, with a generous helping of lobster meat, accompanied with mayonnaise and lemon herb butter. An aggressively generous side of fries that are perfectly golden, crunchy and steaming hot accompanies all mains. Which ever you decide you will not be disappointed, each is as tasty as the other. Thankfully there is a fabulous bar with excellent cocktails to distract you from what can be a severely long waiting time. Waiting at the bar you feel as though you are dining in true Mayfair style. The restaurant has a vibe of wealth and superiority without being uncomfortably pretentious. Unlike the more relaxed hamburger restaurants, here you feel as though you are in for a luxurious treat, served up on a silver platter. This large restaurant has queuing customers that range from after work diners to the fashionable trendsetters, lining up at the door every night from 7 o’clock. Burger or Lobster, the crowds are divided, but this is a not to be missed dining experience.
HONEST BURGER, BRIXTON VILLAGE Honest Burger and honest the hamburgers are. Situated in the Brixton Village, this small burger joint is never short of eager diners, patiently waiting to dig into one of their juicy burgers with generous toppings. Without a doubt these perfectly sized hamburgers are delightfully yummy, and their rosemary-salted fries are safely the best fries in all of London – big call, but the rumours are true. The most popular burger on the menu is the hamburger with smoked cheddar, oaked-smoked bacon and onion rings. Originally a special on the menu, but became so highly demanded it became a regular. Honest burger itself is very simplistic and has an organic stripped back, New York inspired feel about it. It contains a few tables inside, that are wedged in around the open active kitchen, along with a number of tables outside. It clearly does not have enough tables to feed the masses of people that want to experience the legendary Honest Burger. Although like many of these infamous burger joints, space is limited, but that is almost what makes the overall experience more exhilarating and worthwhile. In the humble surroundings, they serve up a humble hamburger that leaves you wanting more of juicy meat. The overall vibe is laid back and superbly fashionable, crowded with people perched on tables wherever they can grab a seat. It is worth hopping on the tube down to Brixton to see what all the hype is about.
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HOW TO
“BURGER-RATE” What makes a burger exceptional? Why is it that certain burgers have that inexplicable something that leaves you wanting more.
We believe that a brilliant burger should be glorified, shouted from the rooftops and placed on a pedestal. There is a certain expertise and an extra touch that causes a burger to have that wow factor. With Britain’s burger culture booming, we thought it necessary to formulate the ultimate burger rating system that will help you to find the best burgers in London.
significantly impacted by the appearance of our food, therefore how delectable the burger looks is crucial.
That moment between picking up the hamburger and taking the first bite your senses are in overload. The aroma of the burger, the feel of the burger bun, the weight of the burger and the tingling of the taste buds as they eagerly await. Are When devouring your next burger consider your eyes fixed to the juicy meatiness of the the following factors: presentation, beef ? Is your mouth watering, despairingly toppings, the bread, the meat and the sides. waiting for the first bite? If the burger has A hamburger should be broken down you diving in without a moments pause, into these five elements, to ensure that it means the hamburger is a good-looking you consider each component in detail. one. In most cases, I’m sure you would agree it is the overall experience that makes that TOPPINGS one special burger unforgettable. Join the Toppings are indispensible when it comes burger culture, become a burger maniac down to discovering the mother of all and obsess with each meaty bite you take. burgers. However, they are often a personal matter. It is each to their own when it PRESENTATION comes to selecting cheeses, tomato, pickles, As you sit at your table, eagerly awaiting onions, bacon and spreads. Whichever your meal, your eyeing off each burger as you choose they play a factor in the they pour out of the kitchen, praying yours overall taste. Sometimes the cheese is too is next. With the excitement building strong, the tomato is too soggy or the and your stomach growing emptier, you sauces are too overpowering. Once you sigh with relief as your chosen burger have eaten your way into the heart of the is finally in front of you. Your eyes pour hamburger, take a moment to think about over the hamburger, thinking of the best the toppings and how well they boost the eating tactics. It is true that our taste is general tastiness. Does the cheese melt all 042
over the beef patty? Is it the perfect shade of yellow? Remember the toppings are essential to building that burger up to a masterpiece. BREAD More often than not people are oblivious to the bun of the burger, but it should never go unnoticed. Picking up that burger, gazing up at it, deciding whether you are able to demolish the height of the burger in one bite, think about the texture of the bun in your palm of your hands. A great burger bun should be perfectly fresh but not to the point of crumbling. The inside of the bun should soak up all the delightful beef juices and the crisp exterior should hold everything together. How fresh does it feel, is it dry or moist, is it ‘squash-able’ and does it add that something special to the overall taste of the burger? If the bread bun stands out as being phenomenal then you know that this burger means business. MEAT Oh the meat. It is the core ingredient, the heart and soul of the hamburger and the element that satisfies every tiny taste bud. If it is served up with a full body of flavour, it is without doubt the most celebrated part of the hamburger. The meat without
exception should be juicy, sizzling, pouring of flavour and undeniably delectable. As you devour the burger think about how it has been cooked, the consistency of the meat, the seasoning and herbs, the quality of the meat and obviously the taste. If after finishing the hamburger you still trying to soak up every last spectacle on your plate, that is a sign of an epic meaty burger. THE SIDES You may think side dishes are not as important as the hamburger itself. Still, they should not be ignored. Often a burger meal is remarkable because of the crispy, golden and perfectly seasoned chips. With a wonderful crunch and saltiness, they are the ideal way to clean the palette before diving in for another burger bite. For what is a hamburger without a side of fries?
It is on the very rare occasion that you find a burger that is marvellous, extraordinary and exhilarating. The only way to find them is to start digging around for them.
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ELSEWHERE Food Of The World Scientists in Australia are dishing up meat dishes beyond the imagination and beyond what our stomachs can digest. There is new research that has found that there is potentially a whole new world of food that is created by extracting more from the elements of meat leftovers. Scientists believe that withdrawing the protein from meat, it could be manipulated it into the foods we eat on the daily basis. Already tried and tested, Australia has produced spaghetti and high protein bread made from extracted meat protein, as well as several flavoured ice creams. Rather than throwing away leftover meat parts, they can now be used in a far more resourceful and sustainable way. Although it may take a while for us to grasp, food producers believe that protein produced food is only five years away from our shelves. Maybe it is time to think outside the plate and open our minds and stomachs to a food group that could be more nutritious and who knows, maybe more delicious.
Finally the first cookbook you can read, cook and then eat. In the aim to create a whole new cooking experience a design company called Korefe in Germany have named it The Real Cookbook. This special edition item gives a whole new and very literal meaning to the word ‘cookbook’. The cookbook is made from 100% fresh lasagne pasta, which contains all the necessary cooking instructions. It has the ability to be read like any other cookbook. However it is worth nothing down the recipe as your turn through the pages, as once read the pages will soon be covered in cheese and tomato sauce. By following the pages made from sheets of pasta and the edible words, you basically fill in the cookbook with ingredients that is then baked into an authentic lasagne. This unusual and novel and experience of cooking is sure to be a talking point at the dinner table. 044
If you thought that you had the Internet dating scene down, think again. You could now find your true soul mate by examining the leftover food in your fridge. As strange as it may sound this could be the answer to your exhausting single life. Farmers cooperative Lantmännen in Sweden have developed a new dating tool called Restdejting that connects singles compatibility based on the leftovers in their fridge. Your invited to visit the website and prudently select up to five leftovers that make up the contents of your fridge. The list is then published to Facebook for other RestDejting singles to browse and pursue. To further add to your chances of finding ‘the one’ there is a speed dating option that allows users to narrow down their searches quickly by selecting ingredients they are interested in pursuing, from there you can have your pick from the food that takes your fancy. Finding your perfect match doesn’t always have to make sense. Maybe personalities can be matched by the food leftover in our fridges. So far 600 people have hooked up over their leftovers, which must mean something. Just imagine your profile reading, “Beef steak looking for spicy sauce. Meal for two.”
Panic is now beginning to set in across New Zealand, as Marmite lovers are feeling the loss of their favourite national spread. After several hard hitting earthquakes shook Christchurch, the Sanitarian Marmite factory was severely damaged. This has lead to the suspension of production of the yeast extract spread. The public has been delivered an indigestible message that there supermarket shelves where the jars of Marmite are stacked will become increasingly bare if not already empty. With supplies coming to their end New Zealanders have been advised to shop around for the imported British version of Marmite, which is just as quickly being snapped off the shelves and becoming too increasingly low in stock. At this point, their best option is to reluctantly buy the Australian version, Vegemite, also a by-product of beer manufacturing and various vegetable extract, but many admit that would be their last resort. Or on the other they could splash out and buy a jar for around £60 at the asking online auction price. It is a wonder how long the country will last before they hit serious crisis point. How much longer can the New Zealanders last without their daily dosage of Marmite? 045
Featuring some classic food dishes that are inspiring Bread Magazine this summer season. Cook, style, plate up and photograph your own dishes that you think are exciting, delicious and worth showcasing. Send them through to Bread and show us what is igniting your current passion and devotion for food.
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FIVE PLATES OF INTEREST
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Eggs & Bacon
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Waffle
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY: CAT LINTON
NEW ZELAND Hot Dog
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Steak
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Gastro Sexuality Men are taking stance in the kitchen, more now than ever before. It is not only acceptable for a man to take control of dinner, but also deemed as a highly attractive trait. It is the Gastrosexual man who utilizes his skill and love for cooking to his advantage, especially in the prospect of potential seduction and praise. If a man can cook up a gastronomic delight, it is definitely a tick in the right box. Words by Natalya Xavier.
It is 7pm and Jacque turns on the light to his newly decorated kitchen. He places his Dior Homme briefcase down, changes into his home attire and looks through the freshly purchased groceries from Whole Foods. Bill Evans is playing in the background – there is something about jazz that has an unexplainable calming effect on him. What strain and headache “Meatless Mondays” use to bring has simply simmered away, as Jacque delicately slices up five different types of mushroom for the Wild Fungus and Yuzu Salad recipe he is about to try out from the Nobu Cookbook. It is to be accompanied by the salmon miso soup left over from yesterday and vegetarian gyoza dumplings. Men appear to be claiming a stake in the kitchen, a place that has historically been seen as a woman’s domain, more now than ever before. Cooking itself has changed
and taken on more prominence and extra meaning. This group of accomplished and keen male cooks, the ‘Gastrosexuals’, aged 25 – 44, are masculine, upwardly mobile men, passionate about cooking and the rewards that it might bring – pleasure, praise and potential seduction. The term not only expresses their passion for the culinary arts, but also the new ways food and cooking integrate into gender identities and relationships. The pleasure of eating and cooking for this generation is no longer a matter of refueling, but rather, an enjoyable experience where time, effort and skill can be demonstrated. The emphatic arrival of men in to the nation’s kitchens is an underappreciated revolution. As late as the 1970s, it was almost unheard of for men to take on an active share of the cooking in their households. Since 1961, time spent 052
cooking has increased five times. Society’s perception of men taking an interest in food – even being passionate about it, has definitely transformed. From going organic, to seasonal hamper deliveries, creations of foam and essences and molecular food creation, it is only a fair statement that our interest towards food is simply insatiable. Long gone are the days where cooking is seen as a chore. New influences and ingredients from all over the world have infused British cooking with fresh life and innovative vibrancy. The tastes and smells of Britain’s kitchens show the influence of these international inspirations. Celebrity chefs such as Jamie Oliver and Heston Blumenthal look out at us from the pages of every magazine and the flickering image of every television and laptop. Battles to be crowned “Master Chef ”, competition to
fill restaurants with global celebrities, and silent feuds of gaining the longest waiting list up (appallingly up to four months) are common place in the food industry. The omniscient presence of the celebrity chef has mirrored a growing passion for food in the wider country and that the nation’s men are following their food heroes and playing a greater role in the preparation of our food. The Gastrosexual sits majestically at the head of the dinner table, as he explains to his party of five how perfectly robust the Bordeaux compliments the tender confit pan fried to a crisp. Rising affluence has played a major role in opening up new gastronomic horizons to men and cooking culture is strongest in some of the more wealthy parts of British society. Finally has the tension between cooking and masculinity been resolved. It is now deemed perfectly acceptable, if not an attractive trait for men to show enthusiasm for food. This has been aided by the latest crop of celebrity chefs - with Jamie Oliver (29% say he is their biggest food hero) and Gordon Ramsay (23%) being the biggest inspirations for British cooks. The presence of unabashedly male cooks on television has helped the Gastrosexual man feel comfortable with his love of cooking - a crucial development is that men are seizing this role with relish. More than half of men agree that they enjoy cooking for friends and family, this rises over 65% with men between the ages of 25-44 – the Gastrosexual generation. ‘Ready to be eaten’ – words we see on hundreds and thousands of food packaging more and more so. An apparent contradiction, or hypocrisy even, of recent times, is the development of prepared meals and foods that parallel the desire of cooking from scratch. The dinner party is a prominent feature of many social lives, chefs are among the country’s best-known
personalities, farmer’s markets spring up, the ‘slow food’ movement is born … and yet still prepared and convenience foods continue to grow. The idea is floated that food is now only an entertainment product; that we watch celebrity chefs create culinary high art as we content ourselves with microwave meals. Au contraire my friend - the two actually go hand in hand. This is simply a demonstration of people selecting when it is appropriate to display their skills, and when a ‘Grab and Go’ option will do. Given the prevalence of frequent time pressure, trade offs do have to be made. So while there is a growing interest in food and people are cooking at home from base ingredients - this cannot fit every occasion. So convenience food, prepared food and fresh food are not sworn enemies. For most people, including many of the keenest cooks, they are a necessary part of a repertoire of ingredients and cooking styles. Reality of the situation is that with new priorities and development, alongside pressure on time management, practicality and acting tactically is key. Opting for ready chopped ingredients, for example, is a huge time saver that promises freshness. In Nigella’s words ‘cheating is absolutely fine.’ In the context of busy, complicated lives, people simply pick the dish and the ingredients that are most appropriate to them. The simultaneous growth of convenience and of cooking is not a contradiction; it is a symptom of the largely successful way in which we manage our time. The nation is not simply split between couch potatoes and organic, healthy-eating purists - most people are a mixture of all parts of the spectrum. There are many sides to cooking – it can be a stylish affair, a heartwarming one, fiercely passionate or directly competitive. Male identity has been reconciled with the art of preparing food. “Many of the current, best 053
known celebrity chefs are men. And that’s different from the earlier era when the most prominent cooks on TV tended to be women.” Remarks Dan Davies, deputy editor of Esquire. These celebrity chefs are no doubt often shown in a laddish, masculine and hot-blooded manner or are simply angry when they cook. Ironically, therefore, by disassociating cooking from the traditionally female norms, celebrity chefs have encouraged men to transform into domestic gods. “Food is the first and amongst the most positive and exuberant expressions of a positive multiculturalism”. States Professor Melanie Howard, and correctly so. The Gastrosexual has grown up in an era where foreign travel has become a norm – and with this, comes the rise in foreign influence in terms of cuisine, flavours, condiments, cooking styles and methodology. Food has become an important part of the travel experience; 64% of people agree that experiencing the authentic culture of the place visited is the most important thing for them when on holiday. Often this experience takes the form of the consumption of local food - recently many travel companies have begun to offer “gastro-tours” of various regions in Europe, Asia and beyond. The consumption of Asian food comes along with exoticism, knowledge, vigour and worldliness. So it is hardly alarming that it is one of the most popular type of food to make by the Gastrosexual. The Gastrosexual. A man that drinks his Cristal from Baccarat crystal. A man who enjoys cashmere socks and velvet slippers. Knows his Fitzgerald and is well versed in Baudelaire. Still undeniably hot-blooded and meat hungry. But he’d prefer that filet mignon medium rare, and charred to a crisp si vous plait. Gentlemen, I applaud you.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: CAT LINTON
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CAFÉ OF THE MONTH!
Almost year old, Shoreditch Grind coffee destination is uncharacteristically unpretentious. They use their own house blend of coffee to ensure they are serving up the highest of quality. “We have our own coffee roasted for us. We tweek it every so often because its not a constant thing, says one of the co-owners. “For me a great cup of coffee is not only about skill but the devotion that goes into making it.” The café has an original style with the overexposed brickwork design, the communal table with old wooden school chairs and the bar seating overlooking the street. The unparalleled fishbowl view of Old Street round-a-bout becomes unexpectedly picturesque when framed by their windows, and becomes a perfect place to watch the world pass around you. Two large communal tables are filled with casual meetings, gossiping sessions and people reading the paper, along with others gathered around on laptops either finishing off work or socialising. You can tell this is a place people call home, with the staff knowing customers by name and their orders by heart. The counter is laden with rustic wooden boards filled with ciabatta and baguettes, coffee and walnut cake, Moroccan honey cake and irresistible chocolate brownies.
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With London is in the middle of a coffee revitalisation and you might have guessed that Shoreditch Grind continues the trends, with its roots straight from the Melbourne coffee culture. Shoreditch Grind is a café that offers more than just a perfect cup of coffee. It is fulfilling the most important ritual of the day. It is about ordering your coffee of choice. Grabbing the next free stool at the side bar, picking up that teaspoon and meditatively stirring it around the mug. Taking the first sip and fluidly placing down the mug, the shoulders drop with a sigh of relief… what an excellent cup of coffee. Stepping into the café, you’re hit with an ambience of warmth and the smell of freshly ground coffee beans. It is small yet airy and bright with the sun beaming in across the room. The grind serves up a great cappuccino that has that perfect tonguetingling coffee bite which is complemented perfectly by the creamy milk blend. The coffee is of the perfect degree and most importantly, full bodied. Shoreditch Grind has successfully created a community with many types congregating for one purpose, taking pleasure in the great coffee. Follow of twitter @Shoreditchgrind
BARCELONA IS ITS OWN INDIVIDUAL MEDITERRANEAN CITY WITH A UNIQUE CHARM. FROM THE VARIABLE PATCHWORK OF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES TO THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS IN FOOD, SIMPLY STROLLING THROUGH THE MARVELLOUS STREETS YOU REALISE HOW UNIQUELY RELAXED AND COSMOPOLITAN THE CITY TRULY IS.
I spent three days travelling the city by foot. What I discovered was city full of contrast and surprises, from walking the La Rambla to venturing into the maze-style alleyways of the Barri Gòtic. The city offered an atmosphere of warmth, created by the art, culture, food and the naturally friendly locals. You can understand why there is a strong desire to preserve the city’s cultural importance and status.
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EAT THIS & TRAVEL
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FRIDAY This was my first time to Spain and I felt the pressure to try and brush up on my high school Spanish. Scrambling through vocabulary lists trying to construct sentences, I decided it was a lost cause. Instead I thought it was more vital to plan my three days to ensure I covered all four corners of the city. Unsure of what to expect on the food front, before I left I swiftly scanned through as many travel blogs as possible to find the best eateries. I was determined not to miss out on anything spectacular. However in this case, all that research was unnecessary, as at no point was it difficult to stumble upon outstanding Catalan and Mediterranean food. I felt at complete ease as I wandered the streets of Barcelona, starting in the Barri Gòtic I could sense the cities energy. With the sun shining down in between the tiny cobbled streets it was undeniably wine time. I went straight for the local tapas at La Alcoba Azul Bar. Sitting out in the warm sunshine with a glass of rose wine, along with a selected array of tapas, which included; chorizo, jamon (Iberian ham), red peppers stuffed with goat’s cheese and jam and fresh tomatoes set the scene for three days ahead. Sticking to what I knew best, after lunch I initially made my way through the shopping area called Ribera. I aimlessly
wandered through the streets popping into boutiques and browsing the local designers. But it wasn’t before long that I became distracted by the wonderful old food delis. I managed to stumble upon the second oldest store in Barcelona called Barri de la Ribera. Packed with every nut, dried fruit and chilli, it was a foodies delight. The endless shelves of olive oils, Mediterranean tuna and chocolates provided everything you would need to create your own tapas meal. With my stomach rumbling I decided to abolish the late night dining ritual Spaniards are known for and eat ‘early’. I took a recommendation from the hotel to try the restaurant Pla, which was praised for its excellent meats. I started with a platter of jamon, which I demolished in an instant. This cured meat is so delectable that it is literally impossible to not to order for every meal. The entrée was followed by exquisite curried pork with roasted vegetables and mushrooms. The meal would have been perfection had I not been distracted by the bizarre theatrical performance of the headwaiter. The service struck me as being a perfectly orchestrated performance. All the staff had a specific role to play in managing the efficient but if not a little unusual dinner service. 058
SATURDAY After a night of sweet dreams and meat sweats, a strong cup of coffee and a croissant was in order. There are countless coffee bars in Barcelona bustling with locals grabbing their morning espressos. Tucking into breakfast at a local cafe is essential. With food in mind, I was ready to embark on the much talked about market, La Boutique. The market was flourishing with smells, colours and culture from every direction. The locals were pushing past the tourist to reach the stalls packed with every meat, fish and vegetable imaginable. I quickly became overwhelmed with excitement. I had restrain myself from buying things that I couldn’t possibly have time to eat or fit into my carry on suitcase. In all the commotion I managed to reach my destination. A small tapas bar called La Quim, nestled within the market stalls. I was surprised that it was already full of people eating tapas and drinking cava (Catalonia sparkling wine made by the champagne method) so early on in the day. Although not particularly hungry I joined in the frivolities.
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One of the chefs recommended the fried scrambled eggs with octopus known in Spanish as ‘heuvos fritos con chipi rones’. He told me, “This is our traditional dish, the most popular. People come to La Boutique to try it and here we serve the best. Good food comes from good people.” It was undeniably excellent, full of exciting flavours and originality. The menu was overwhelmingly extensive that I just wish I had the stomach space to try all gastronomic delights. Continuing on with my food extravaganza I decided to venture out on my own for dinner and find a low-key local restaurant. After wandering around Barri Gòtic for a while, I stumbled upon a dark looking restaurant called La Vinateria del Call. Not welcoming from the outside, I thought I would take my chances and try something daring. The restaurant offered a wide selection of excellent tapas dishes and the waitress recommended four to be shared between two. I ordered the perfect selection of goat’s cheese, cured duck meat and roasted vegetables along with spicy stuff mussels, which was the hero of the meal. The mussels where so exceptional I tried desperately to scrapped every last bit from the shells.
SUNDAY
Back in Barcelona that evening I was craving a hearty meal, which to me means a generous bowl of carbohydrates. Although clearly an old institution it was overpriced, pretentious and brightly lit. Having doubts about the choice of restaurant I preceded Wanting to venture out of the city for the day, Sitges, with ordering the Paella, which I specifically venture a typical Mediterranean seaside town not far outside there to sample. Supposedly the second best Paella in Barcelona, seemed like the obvious choice. Delighted Barcelona was a let down. Although full of flavours, by the sublime warm spring day, it was the perfect the rice undercooked and chewy. After a disappointing occasion to sit and enjoy a glass of rose wine and a evening I concluded that maybe Barcelona is not the platter of food. The Catalan district is renowned for its place to be finding the Paella. fresh seafood and my plate of cuttlefish marinated in garlic butter sauce lived up to my expectations. It was utterly superb. Another morning of perfect Barcelona sunshine, blue skies and coffee. I couldn’t resist munching on a fresh baguette with jamon for breakfast, which I had been eyeing off since I had arrived.
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MONDAY
My last day was all about visiting La Sagrada Familia, which is said to be the most remarkable church in Europe. I must admit I am not an enthusiast for churches, therefore as of this point I had yet to embark on any of the key architectural monuments Barcelona is known for. Clearly over the three days, I was more concerned about my stomach. In this case I knew that I would be ridden with guilt if I left without a visit to the highly anticipated La Sagrada Familia. So as you can imagine, I went with indifferent expectations and on entering I shamelessly knew little about the church originally designed by a young Gaudi. I was stunned, as I stood at the entrance speechless. I now find it hard to string together the right words to describe the church’s absolute beauty. What struck me most were the unique features and touches, like the mosaic tiles on the roof and the overall modern design, which was clearly designed beyond its time. The effect of the whole structure is indescribable as it dominates the Barcelona skyline. This extraordinary unfinished church is an artistic and religious statement.
With small window of time to spare, I raced back to La Boutique market for a crepe, which I had spotted earlier on Saturday but had not, had the room to consume. I could not resist ordering a scrumptious cheese, oregano, caramelised onion and of course jamon crepe. Strolling around the market stalls contently eating my crepe, I sucked up the last of Barcelona’s buzzing atmosphere. Barcelona is undeniably a city of history, style, delicacies and refinement. Barcelona is a classic European city that offered far more beyond its expectations. One thing for absolute certain was the unquestionable high quality of food. Every meal I devoured (discounting the unfortunate paella) was superb. My three days in Barcelona became a trip of food indulgence and discovery.
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How environmentally sustainable is a vegetarian dinner? We are currently in a global crisis over the amount of meat we consume. According to research we are eating so much meat that it is having large repercussions on the environment. We have been advised that a vegetarian diet is more sustainable towards the planets future, but what would be the impact if we all stopped eating meat and adopted a vegetarian diet? Words by Luiz Rodrigues.
There has never been so much information on our plates. Every odd packet of nuts on offer and any salad side dish become instant ingredients to global debates. Nutrients, minerals and even provenance are as familiar elements as hunger or taste in our basic nutrition dictionary. Whereas eating for most was purely a matter of practicality - and for many, a matter of survival - it has become a mark of social positioning. Consequently the food
choices we make are increasingly influenced by politics and economics, so picking up pre-washed broccoli florets as opposed to its organic bulb form promptly indicates the ideology of the cook. Humans have been slowly confirming to the sustainable needs of the world, by for instance, cycling to work and deciding to eliminate disposable shopping bags. Yet, the prolonged argument from vegetarians, vegans and further sympathizers 062
A MEATY DEBATE
suggest that the only way to significantly reduce ecological threats is by abdicating animal consumption. With the demands of the world’s rising population and the bittersweet essence of the international food industry, is giving-up meat altogether the ultimate step to saving the planet? According to the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO) 2011 report, meat-eating of any kind (be it beef, chicken, fish or pork etc.) is at its peak; with consumption levels projected to rise by nearly 73 percent as of 2050. Similarly, dairy consumption points to a 58 percent growth over current levels. Whilst such information might be regarded positively as an indication of a successful global industry, its effects on the environment are far less grand. To comply with the world’s meat appetite, animals must be raised through livestock farming and industrial processes. In 2006 the FAO, the respected journalistic resource for its unbiased authority on food politics, astonished preservationists by revealing that this same sector generates 18 % (as measured in CO2 equivalent) of all greenhouse emissions – more than worldwide transport pollution. For Tony Wardle, associate director of animal campaign group Viva! and of health charity Vegetarian & Vegan Foundation, this figure comes as no surprise. In fact he sees no path for sustainable development with the current methods of the global meat industry “Livestock production is the primary cause of deforestation and loss of biodiversity and a leading cause of desertification, nitrogen pollution, antibiotic resistance and most other environmental catastrophes.” Tony Wardle believes the reason for meat popularity and its “overconsumption” (beyond the taste factor) is due to the dependence from various industries. From pharmaceutical industries providing fertilizers to “equipment manufacturers, food processors, advertising agencies etc.” For Mr. Wardle embracing veganism is a social and political stance for the environment “It would make a huge contribution to reducing global warming by absorbing vast amounts of carbon by allowing the world’s wild places to regenerate.” Despite his activism, Mr. Wardle is secure that reducing meat production is practically impossible due to current models of capitalism, which encourage permanent growth and consequently influences the meat and dairy industries. Mr. Wardle is far from being an isolated campaigner; in fact changing dinner habits in regards to the environment is a growing trend. According to the educational charity group, The Vegetarian Society, almost a quarter of the world’s population enjoys a strictly vegetarian regime. The group, which supports the
transition of newcomers into the lifestyle, credits environmental consciousness as a significant factor for the change. As a passionate follower advocated on the group’s online forum “A lifelong vegetarian will save the lives of approximately 760 chickens, 5 cows, 20 pigs, 29 sheep, 46 turkeys and half a tone of fish.” Nevertheless it is simple to notice that despite the success of ethical campaigns such as ‘Meatless Mondays’ and the fashionable popularity of organic food stores, meet is deeply ingrained in our habit. In the USA, according to the US Department of Agriculture, Americans consume half-pound of meat a day; that is approximately 10 billion animals a year and more than anywhere else on the planet. Similarly, Brazilian nutritionist Patricia Augustroze identifies a loyal meat appetite within her client base. Augustroze attributes this pattern to two main reasons. The first relates to the high satisfying properties of proteins, which reduces excessive eating for many. The second credited to the popularity of “Hyper-protein diets, where carbohydrates are prohibited, under the false-claim that this increases weight-loss.” She explains that a vegetarian diet possesses potential health benefits, such as reduced cholesterol rates. However, fears that encouraging more people to embrace it would not benefit the environment and even impair those who are not able to afford meat products. For over 25 years American writer, Lierre Keith, avidly campaigned for the ecological attributes of vegetarianism. A fter a lifetime of devout veganism Keith gradually encountered “revealing information” that prompted her to abandon the lifestyle and publish the controversial book “The Vegetarian Myth.” In her ubiquitous literature Keith conjures equal amounts of political and ethical reasoning, which has set the vegetarian society alight ever since. In opposition to Wardle, Keith argues that society (and capitalism) far from being meat dependent is dependent on “imperialism.” A quest for power that has destroyed most of the world’s natural landscapes and transformed us into “parasites of the soil.” Keith explains that the Green Revolution initiated in the 1950s in which corn, soy and similar grains that feed livestock became subsidies are the true villains. “People figured out how to use fossil fuels and we have been eating chemicals ever since.” For Keith, the environmental claims of vegetarianism are irrelevant compared to the gravity of agriculture “Its very odd that in a way of saving animals, the vegetarians have a model where there is no space for them.” She is referring primarily to 063
grain-based cultures, an issue she has written and spoken widely about “It is the most destructive thing people have done to the planet.” She describes them as unnatural and as industrialised as livestock “It eliminates animals which are essential for the land: for manure, calcium.” Keith believes that if the majority of the world population would shift to vegetarianism it would result in a “disaster for human health and for the planet. The only way we are going to restore this ecosystem is by letting the animals come back home.” Keith’s arguments are based on the fact that vegetarians possess a diet full of soy and grains and therefore support the contemporary agriculture model. Soybeans, for example, which are used in a wide-range of vegetarian ingredients and products, have been linked to deforestation in South-East Asia and South America. Soybeans are damaging because they require massive transportation infrastructure projects that unleash a chain of events leading to the destruction of natural habitats. Nutritionist Patricia Augustroze is aware of the environmental resonance of the crop. She advises her clients to steer away from its processed and transgenic forms and “consume it in moderation, preferring its healthy forms such as tofu, miso and tempeh.” Tony Wardle believes that this assumption of the vegetarian or vegan diet is a regular criticism levelled at the community and bears no validity. “Vegan-specific products account for a tiny proportion of soya production – so small that no one can supply accurate data. We are probably talking one or two per cent of total soya production and as many vegan products are organic, the raw materials are not sourced from the same industrial sources.” He argues that worldwide soya production has not increased to suit the demand from vegans, but that from livestock producers. “Soya meal is now the animal fodder of choice, which accounts for over 80 per cent of all soya production. The bulk of the remaining 20 per cent is used in general food manufacture to pad out such products as meat pies and pasties, cat and dog food.” Despite his ethical standings, Wardle strongly reiterates that livestock production is at the heart of environmental implications that surround eating meat. Similarly, many supporters of meat-based diets have also condemned the livestock system. When Lierre Keith argues that eating meat is healthful and environmental appropriate, she does not make reference in any circumstance to factory farming. She reveals that improving animal farming practices is a global challenge “The only solution is encourage a transition to an ecological and social sustainable food system.” Joel Salatin is a pioneer farmer from the American state of Virginia who abides through these principles. Under his self-proclaimed “green farming” he founded ‘Polyface Farm – the farm of many faces” and a mecca of sustainable arable culture.
In the 550-acre land Salatin raises cows, chickens, pigs, rabbits and poultry without any industrial “disturbance.” In a holistic system that goes beyond the free-range method the team at Polyface Farm uses animals to “heal the land”. Asked about his iconic methods such as the ‘pigaerator’ and the ‘rakin’(rabbitchicken house), Salatin responds that he is committed to “mimicking nature’s natural templates.” The end result benefits both animals that roam freely and the land, which is enriched by such activities. “Animal grazing keeps the ecosystem balanced reduces the need for the fertilizers and fuel used by farm machinery in crop cultivation, things that aggravate climate change.” Salatin, who is also the author of ‘Folks, This Ain’t Normal’, and other titles that question contemporary farming, understands that his approach is unable to feed the growing global demand. In regards to the discussion about the environmental aspects of vegetarianism, Salatin cites the importance of eating meat within a community and in moderation. “The solution is not to give up meat altogether. The only way to restore nature is to return to localised, visceral farming.” Complying with such efforts, Polyface Farm does not commercialise its products in large scale and encourages anyone from outside their food shed to source local farmers. The difficulty of evaluating the arguments on food politics is identifying the authenticity of ecological and personal claims. Any question on how we feed ourselves is often considered a personal attack. A brief taste of the current debates on sustainable eating will showcase the raging disparities between its two main courses. It seems that ‘meat-eaters’ and ‘veggies’ are always ready to spice-up ecological condemning facts about each other’s respective diets. While scientists might be ready to offer accurate data on livestock numbers, leading farmers or food enthusiasts usually evoke emotional imagery. As it stands, there are no technically or economically viable alternatives to intensive production for providing the bulk of the global food supply for growing cities. The reality of intensive livestock production can only be reversed gradually: systemizing resilience into the production and factoring animal welfare and environmental protection. Surely individual green initiatives can trigger wider traction from the industry, recent global demand for recyclable products resulted in positive reactions from corporations. The path to securing an environmentally benign future, therefore, does not involve condemning individual food choices, but encouraging proud vegans and meat-lovers alike to ensure sustainability as a priority.
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MEAT ON
WHEELS its eling its way across the Atlantic and landing The New York food truck phenomenon is whe e full swing and becoming an unstoppable forc tracks in London. This food movement is in the g centre. These trucks are quickly transformin with new food trucks popping right, left and sly but outstandingly gourmet, authentic, deliciou London food scene, by serving up nothing s, trucks have now transcended into the fresh food. From once being on the sideline grabbing a quick bite to eat. mainstream of eating out, with the notion of
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Food trucks have been a huge contributor to the food revolution happening within Britain. Street food trends have been continually escalating since the arrival of the farmers markets. Many Britons now populate their weekends by strolling around markets trying and testing local produce. With the arrival of food trucks, these markets now offer a whole new way to enjoy ‘eating on the hoof.’ It is not just London seeing such culinary pursuits, right across Britain there is a growing community of mobile street vendors.
Food trucks are offering something that up until now has been neglected within the British food culture. It is only now that there is a new vibrancy and excitement within the foodie community. These food trucks have become pivotal in London’s food scene and for good reason. As well as providing food from a diverse range of cultures, majority of these trucks advocate using locally produce ingredients. “We use and support locally grown produce,” says Joel from Daddy Donkey food truck.J “Most food trucks embrace a similar notion. That is why truck food tastes so fantastic, its local, fresh and made on the spot. Our veg arrives at midnight and we would serve it up the next day.” At affordable prices, food trucks have the advantage of experimentation without the cost and risk of setting up a restaurant. They take the plunge by mixing ethnicities together to create exciting new food concepts. For example the food truck
Yum Bun in Broadway market, dishes up the much hyped pork buns with a voluptuous slab of tender slow roast belly pork, crunchy cucumber and spring onion. It is then enveloped in a moist, pillowy homemade steamed bun, embellished with a choice of sauce. “Just the fact that people are willing to make the effort to not only come and try our food, but also become loyal regulars,” says Lisa from Yum Bun. There is a new booming culture of foodie loyalty that has developed alongside the arrival of the trucks. There are customers who become regulars, familiar with the menu and loyal to their favourite food trucks. They will follow their tracks, be in tune with their weekly specials and banter with the staff as they work. The true followers can be spotted as the ones you will request extra fillings and ask for markings on assorted packages so they can distinguish their own choice from their friends. While waiting in the queue, there is an atmosphere of amusement, eagerness and friendliness, so much so, that there is no time for impatience to develop. You feel as though you are becoming part of a bigger cultural movement, part of the latest food trends. “I think people like eating from food trucks because there is that element of surprise, you don’t expect something served out of a truck to blow you away and be great tasting,” says Joel. “I find that there is something about food trucks, says Aibye from Big Apple Hot Dogs. “When we think about food trucks we think about ice cream vans turning up in our streets. That is why I think people enjoy food trucks b ecause it is traditional.” No longer are street food vans associated with dishing out greasy, unhealthy and rather unappetising food. The stereotype has changed, each truck serves up a taste of their personality. One of the best things about the food truck is the unexpected experience that they are no longer home to the soggy hamburger or oily fish and chips.
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Loyal followers and true die-hard fans trumpet information about their favourite vendors as well as exploring new trucks hitting the streets. Many of the trucks have touched base within a network and strategically set up their trucks or pop-up food in the same place, where a crowd is sure to develop. Social media has played a huge role is the sudden rise in popularity, in the aspect of providing free promotional possibilities. Daddy Donkey has sizeable number of 2,117 followers on twitter, while Eat St, a website that connections the country’s food trucks with one another and their customers and organises a group of trucks to appear at Eat St on weekday basis, has knocked up a solid 4,246 followers. Food truckers have embraced the world of social networking and many update their twitter feeds constantly with daily specials as well as where to find them. But more than offering menu changes, twitter has turned into a stream of conversation between customers and other food trucks. “Young people want a new experience from food,” says James Ramsden food writer. “People are in it for the experience and to be part of something trendy. Social media has been a big player in changing the street food scene in London. People are eager to be part of it.” Making the trip to a food truck is about more than just the unexpected superb food. It is an adventure. It is about watching a masterpiece as these vans dish out endless grub to a hungry crowd. It is about being part of the building atmosphere of true hearty street food. There is a true sense of occasion that comes when you discover something truly wonderful. This perhaps is why, more than anything, these food trucks are so successful. There is one thing that is true, is that this is sure to be the summer of the food trucks.
MEAT ON WHEELS
LONDON’S BEST
DADDY DONKEY Serving up authentic Mexican food to the masses, providing Britain with some of the best burritos in the country. Joel from the truck explains that Daddy Donkey prides itself of using locally sourced produce and serving up a hearty authentic Mexican food that is worth the wait. Renowned for their spicy burrito, it is worth making the trip to Leather Lane. Make sure your hungry, these burritos are an absolute mouthful, but worth every bite. £6 on average per wrap Weekdays at Leather Lane Market, EC1N TE, Breakfast Burrito 7:30 am - 11 Kick- ass Lunch Burritos 11am – 4pm – 5pm Follow @DaddyDonkey BIG APPLE HOT DOGS With the tag line “no brains, no bones, no butts,” Abiye the owner of the Big Apple Hot Dog truck, produced proper hand made hot dogs. With a range of different dogs to try, all are served up in a big freshly baked bun with onion, along with all the classic toppings available. The signature hot dog is ‘The Big Dog’ made with pork and steak sausage and marjoram, garlic and pepper, is by far one of the best, if not the number one hot dog in Britain. Big call, but this little aluminium cart at Old Street Station is so outstanding, the hot dogs now feature on the menu of Mishkins restaurant. Abiye is out on the streets in rain, hail, snow or sunshine, keeping his dogs warm and is constantly updating secret dog releases on twitter, so keep a look out. £2.50 per dog Weekdays at Old Street, EC1V 9EY; 11am -4pm Sundays at Chatsworth Road Market, E5; Follow @bigapplehotdogs BHANGRA BURGER This truck is really making a buzz by bringing a range of different ethnicities together in one handmade-spiced burger wrap. Easily recognisable with its blue painted horse lorry, Bhangra Burger serves up flatbread wraps covered with homemade chutney, prickles and salad. Choose from the Balti Beef, Crazy Lamb Jalfrezzi, Veggie Chana masala and the might masala fish. The owner of the van Alec use to make burger for his friends after travelling the world he set up his own truck in the aim of fusing together the best of east and west in none other than a burger. He can been seen bright and early every day cooking all his patties on a hot plate. Enjoy your fusion wrap with sides of pakoras, sweet onion samosas, lassis or masala coffee. £6 per burger At Eat.St, Kings Boulevard on Fridays Real Food Market, Southbank Follow @bhangraburger to see where he’ll appear next. 071
WELL KNEADED One of the newer trucks on the streets of London, co owners Bridget and Byrony learnt the skill of fire bread pizzas on the job, after they found their iconic tomato red and mozzarella white VW van in the Swiss Alps. Start by choosing the base of the pizza, garlic, pesto or tomato. Then choose from several of the pizza toppings, the meatiest being the chorizo with mushrooms, chillies and thyme. These flat bread pizzas are made fresh in front of you and served up steaming hot. Watch the dough being stretched, topping thrown on and then whole pizza sizzle away in the wood fire stone oven. Finish off with drizzle with some chilli garlic sauce and sprinkle with some parsman cheese. The secret is cooking the sourdough base for 2 minuets, which leaves it crunchy but chewy. These pizzas are as good as you would get anywhere, absolutely delicious. I would turn up early, this pizza van has created quiet a following. Tues/Thurs, 11am-8pm, Northcote Road Market, SW11; Friday,11am-8pm, Falcon Terrace, SW11, Saturday, 10.30am-4pm, Battersea High Street Market, SW11. Now part of the eat.st collective in Kings Cross too. Follow @WellKneadedFood
PHOTOGRAPHED BY: CAT LINTON
BÁNH MÌ 11 From the streets of Vietnam, Bánh Mì this crusty fresh baguette is filled with pork, mayonnaise and a heavenly pate. It is then topped off with crisp pickles and fresh herbs and a homemade chilli sauce. This meaty roll is the iconic street style food of Vietnam with an influence of the French. Bánh Mì 11 began as a culinary venture of Anh and Van, two school friends from Hanoi who couldn't satisfy their cravings for Bánh Mì in London. Now their stall is iconic to the London street food scene. You don’t need directions as you can sniff out the street stall, from the aromatic smell of pork being barbecued. Everything is made from scratch and served up sizzling fresh. The baguette ideal, with a thin golden crust and a soft fresh texture it soaks up all the barbecued pork juices. The shop is set up in Broadway market and it seems that every weekend the cues get longer and longer. London's Broadway Market, E8, from 10am to 5pm Shoreditch's late-night Red Market from 7pm to 3am, every Saturday Follow @ @Banhmi11uk SUMMER COMEBACKS The two iconic food trucks that serve up the best that meaty meals food trucks have to offer Pitt Cue and Meatwagon will take back to the streets this summer. Keeps yours eyes peeled for where they will be, as they are sure to be on the road. Follow http://pittcue.co.uk/ or @MEATliquor
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Eat It, Tweet It The world has been blessed with tools that allow us connect to extensive levels through the gift of social networking. The growing obsession is managing to fulfil this narcissistic age where we have become addicted to gathering followers and talking about ourselves. As a result there has been an emergence of new age of food enthusiasts, who hunt, update, check in and photograph their latest food finds. How is this infatuation driving forward a new food culture and giving rise to the ‘expert foodie’?
There has recently been a surge in fashionforward foodies who seek out the newest vibrant and stylish places to eat at. They are tracking down the quirky, secret and unknown food hot spots around town, eager to be the first ones to rant and rave about their little discoveries. This undeniable foodie energy is having a huge influence on Britain’s food culture. Over the past five years Britons have entered a whole new food landscape, where there has been an outpour of supperclubs and pop up restaurants. The arrival of this food utopia has been driven by many factors, but it’s the unstoppable domination of social media and phone applications that
have made it so trendy to be in the know about food. We have been blessed with an outburst of apps to satisfy our interest and cravings, especially when it comes to connecting and sharing with other users. But we ask ourselves why we have become so preoccupied with this plague of technology? The power of being in the know is what drives many of us to click onto Twitter and investigate what is currently ‘trending.’ Food has become a cultural obsession, one that has translated onto social media applications that entice us to hunt out the 074
latest places to be. “There is a fear that if we are not part of something massive, something that many people are following, we will be left behind,” says psychiatrist Jim Lees. “This fear is a human instinct that comes from the need to belong.” Psychologists have claimed that Twitter and Facebook, along with other forms of social networking, fill a deep psychological void in our society. “As humans we have an evolutionary need for community,” says Jim Lees. “Reality is that within our culture we are deprived of real community. Today online networks make us feel connected and as a result we have become relentlessly addicted.”
However this has developed into needing constant social recognition. “It is ‘the simple things going on in our lives’ that forms the content of so much of social networking communication,” says Dr Jim Lees, Consultant in Psychiatry. “It seems to have broadened into competitiveness, exhibitionistic and voyeuristic intentions that are very active in the communications of social networks.” Photography apps have enabled each of us to be our own professional photographer. We find gratification in visually recording the food we eat. Before the world of social mayhem, we would mention that the food looks great, now we dive for our phones and snap away, edit, and upload instantly to social media forums without forgetting the crucial a comment and tag. With our phones strategically placed beside us we eagerly await comments, likes and retweets that gives us the self-assurance and social recognition.
food offers something special and out of the ordinary. Like Spuntino we have a very signature look about the way we present food. We put great looking food on very basic plates and the restaurant itself is not obvious when you walk by. I think that it becomes a novelty, knowing something someone else doesn’t. For me it tells me that they have discovered something unique that they love.” These trendy and once undiscovered restaurants like Spuntino are now crawling with young professionals, dying to become part of the forward foodie crowd. The reason why such pop up, novelty and supperclub restaurants are suddenly on the food map is purely due to word of mouth via social media.
‘Platter’ is the newest apps to help users share their foodie delights with the world. Like many social media applications, it allows us to entertain with photos of what we eat. The social media app Foodspotting has had more than 1million A 2011 survey on Online Food and Photo food images uploaded to its site since in sharing conducted by 360i marketing, started two years ago. Other social media found that one-quarter of those sharing applications like Foursquare, SnapDish food photos were simply publishing them and Instagram are also driving this trend to share. The survey found that people see forward. All of these social media apps are personal value in just “sharing the simple then connected to Facebook and Twitter moments in life.” They discovered that a pages that then tagged and checked-in in further 22% uploaded to show off their their correct locations. This bombardment gastronomic achievements. of information has quickly become an addictive obsession that we now sub “So many people come in and take pictures consciously confide in. of the food. Most I guess will just upload to some type of social media, which is “Our fascination with food is innate,” good publicity if people like what they see,” says Jim Lees. The combination of this says Dave from Spuntino, an extremely along with the rise of photography being nonchalant restaurant in Soho. “I think inextricably linked into our modern it happens more when restaurants or the technology means that we are able to 075
capture food moments more vividly and instantly than ever before. For all those foodie obsesses out there, why not capture that fabulous food moment. The capabilities of these food apps entitles each and every one of us to be in control, to review, to praise or criticise the food we eat. This media freedom automatically places the customers or these young foodies in the driving seat. “We tweet and reply to customers all the time and we use Twitter to announce menu specials and novelty events happening,” says Steve from The Diner Soho. “If we retweet followers, it makes them feel special and therefore creates loyalty. If it wasn’t for Twitter and other social media forums, I don’t think London’s food culture would be where it is at today.” Off the beaten track food destinations are now in high demand. Young foodies have new expectations from what they want out of a dining experience. Its more than just about the food, its about, the atmosphere, the experience, the idea of being the first to visit, to feel as though you belong to an institution, to say you have been and tried the fabulous meal. This being true, it is fair to say that Britons food culture is in the middle of a renaissance, one that is being powered by the addiction and gratification we obtained from social networking. Whatever the motivation is behind it, people like taking photos of food and this is not a trend that is disappearing any time soon. Modern technology and social media means you can take a quick photo, post online and inspire others. Everyone wants to be the expert in the London food scene.
The Book Review For Cook HOW MANY OF US HAVE AN ENTIRE BOOKSHELF DEDICATED TO ENDLESS EXOTIC COOKBOOKS BUT HARDLY EVER MAKE THE EFFORT TO COOK FROM THEM. WE ALL HAVE THE INTENTION TO COOK UP AN EPIC SUNDAY ROAST BUT HOW OFTEN DOES THAT IDEA FALL THROUGH. IT IS TIME TO REGAIN THE SKILLS OF GREAT BRITISH COOKING AND GO BACK TO THE COOKBOOKS WE GREW UP WITH AND CAN RELY ON. IT IS OUT WITH NEW AND IN WITH THE OLD.
Sat on the London Underground last week I watched four-yearold twins tuck greedily into a tub of marinated olives stuffed with goat’s cheese their Mother had proffered from a Waitrose bag. Olives? At four all I wanted was grapes. And custard creams. When did us reserved Brits become so exotic? I love to try new ‘foreign’ foods, a habit I share with over 60% of the population according to a Mintel report, but I must admit I do miss a good, wholesome home cooked British dinner. Who in Britain doesn’t crave cottage pie with piles of creamy mash and steaming carrots? Mushy vegetable soup made with all the
slightly squishy vegetables that yesterday were languishing in the larder. And to finish, a marmalade laced bread and butter pudding complete with ‘rabbit poo’ sultanas. According to my child self, burnt sultanas most closely resembled my pet’s poop. These were the meals my Mother raised me on, with not a chickpea, chorizo sausage or antipasti pepper in sight. Yet now, living on my own and cooking for myself, I rarely return to the basics; the tried and tested meat, potatoes and veg ratio that served generations before me well. 076
I blame a lack of adequate food tech education in schools. My memory of home economics is a dodgy run in with gelatin for a cheesecake, and a bland pasta bake. If we want our children to not grow up obese and addicted to frozen pizza and curly fries, we should arm them with the knowledge of seasonal British fruit and vegetables, the tastiest cuts of meat and a good handful of satisfying, but healthy, recipes. That is not to say, however, that we are not interested in local produce and home cooking. We, as a nation, fantasize about it; we have a fetish for it. We watch River Cottage religiously, populate trendy deli cafes like Sussex’s worst kept secret Bill’s and spend extortionate money on cheese in the monthly farmer’s market. But when we bring home our organic vegetables say, or the local butchers brisket cut, do we actually know what the hell to do with it? The coolest place to be on a Sunday where I live in East London is the Breakfast Club. The queue snakes around the street corner, as the hungover crowds try to wait patiently for their breakfast fix. What have we come to, when we can’t even whip up our own greasy English Breakfast? I raise the white flag here: I can barely fry a decent egg. My own inadequacy angers me so much that when at home recently I furiously rifled through my Mother’s cookbooks searching for the bible I believed would guide me: Delia’s Complete Cookery Course. Ah, the times I have seen my Mother, Grandmother, and Aunties toil with flour-covered aprons over this book. First published in 1982, this British institution has sold over 2million copies since. Our family hardback copy has browning pages, the occasional grease spot, and several post-it notes with recipe variations.
Across the world, the food goddess may change, but the sentiment stays the same. Our very own editor Phoebe remembers Stephanie Alexander’s Cook’s Companion from growing up in her native Australia. “Stephanie Alexander’s cookbook is like a bible for the average cook. It isn’t so much a particular style but more about learning the skills of anything you want to cook. It is all about the basics. I constantly crave the basic chicken pie. So basic, but incredible,” says Phoebe. Stephanie first published the book in 1996, after forty years running successful restaurants. The Cook’s Companion packs in over 1000 recipes, organised alphabetically according to their principal ingredient. For example, there is a whole section dedicated to eggs, and egg based meals. Delia and Stephanie shaped our relationship with food; from the steaming meals our Mother’s put in front of us, to our first foray in front of the stove. Who then is shaping the food relationship for children growing up in 2012? There can be no doubt that the greatest influence on the rising generations, and ours to some extent, is the King of turkeytwizzler bashing, Jamie Oliver. He was solely responsible for a 290% rise in asparagus sales in 2005; introducing thousands of British children no doubt to a long awaited change from overcooked broccoli. He is an advocate for knowing the basics skills that go into cooking and sees the importance of revolutionizing Britain’s food mentality. Jamie found himself at the top of the book charts for the third time last Christmas with his cookbook Jamie Great Britain. It has since sold 60,000 copies. Jamie’s cheeky Essex charm has even found its way overseas – Editor Phoebe claims her Mother has every single one, and they’ve usurped Stephanie on the cookbook shelf.
In it I find fish pie, still a firm favourite with my brother, the perfect Yorkshire puddings, and I’ll admit less-than-appetising offal recipes. I thank god my Mother hated offal, so never subjected me to the guts and all.
In ‘Great Britain’, Jamie takes classic homely dishes and gives them that exotic twist we’re all curious for, like rabbit Bolognese and roast vegetable vindaloo. He patiently holds our hand as we pair our newfound love for the organic, local and unusual with meals we recognise and love.
I brought up Delia over a few pints at the pub recently; it seems every 20-something was raised on the original kitchen goddess’ recipes. “I know my Mum used it fairly often, especially for the things that are basic and staple, like how to make amazing roasties & Victoria sponge,” agrees Sally Fairclough, 20, from Nottingham. “My first ever cake was made using Delia’s recipe.”
So next time you arrive home with a carrier bag heavy with meat and veg, take Delia, Stephanie or Jamie off the shelf and cook yourself a piled-high plate of wholesome, healthy, home-cooked grub. Reclaim British staples, spiced up with a few foreign food newcomers. But be warned; you may never leave your kitchen again once you’ve mastered to art of the hearty meal. 077
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Aftertaste Leaving a single scrap of food on your plate after a delicious meal is something that we do not like doing. So much so that we will continue to eat until our stomachs reach beyond maximum capacity. We are forced unbutton our jeans and let our bursting tummy’s just hang out. It has become such an issue in our society that you can now join overeaters anonymous to help curb that bad habit of scrapping up every last crumb the plate. Words by Josh Walker.
Ah, the feeling of a full stomach, one that can be a magical feeling of content, or one of suffering pain. The seven deadly sins have been used to educate in religion since the beginning of time. So why is it that when it comes to the sin of Gluttony and overindulging, it’s something we’re all guilty of ? We’ve all reached for that extra mouthful when we’re full purely because it tastes good. In fact, if we haven’t already, we’ll probably be doing it later today. No one likes to be called a pig, but you can’t deny it you have once been a culprit. Maybe it’s the spontaneous culture we live in. Streets are packed with cafes, bakeries, and restaurants, meaning shoppers can’t help but be always eating with their eyes. We’re living in a culture where when we see it, we want it and with next to no effort, we can have it, straight from the plate to our bellies. The prime example would of course be the all-you-can-eat buffet. If you’ve ever been, you’ll know the situation of squeezing an extra helping of food into an already exploding stomach. Oh yes, there is always room for more. Or perhaps, to stop feeling bad we could blame our indulgence on common courtesy? We’re forever told as children by parents
and grandparents alike to “finish everything on the plate” or “don’t let that go to waste” as a matter of manners. A survey by diet programme Lighter Life found that every nine in ten Brits were told by their parents to do just that. Honestly though, that doesn’t stop our willpower evaporating when we’re offered another helping. As we watch the words “oh, go on then” tumble from our mouths to the already filling plate, we’re loaded with another portion, which would only be rude to not finish. The classic trait of an overeater are the types that try to justify their lack of control with such nonsense as, “I went for a run this morning,” “I haven’t eaten all day” or “I have such a fast metabolism.” However we look at it, whatever we choose to blame our overeating habits on, it seems we can’t help but indulge in a little bit of gluttony from time to time. As a society we are addicted to overindulgence. Everything is too big, our portions are massive and food is far too accessible and the worst of it is cheap. We over-eat and over-indulge because we want to and if the food tastes good, why not? Eating is such a pleasurable pursuit.
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Phoebe Strapp. May 2012.