28 minute read
ROAD TRIP
Florida teems with bucket-list experiences, hidden gems, worldclass hotels, great food, and bizarre attractions. Pack your bags and gas up your convertible because it’s time to explore the state and pen an unforgettable summer vacation sure to go down in family lore.
LUMINA / STOCKSY
SCORE SOME FACE TIME WITH FLORIDA’S MOST CAPTIVATING LAND AND SEA CREATURES THE CALL OF THE WILD[ [ WITNESS Mass Coral Spawning
Florida Keys
Every year around the full moons of August and September, the reefs of the Florida Keys erupt with colossal clouds of gametes as corals of all shapes and sizes— from brain to elkhorn to staghorn—engage in synchronized mass-spawning rituals. Peep this rare spectacle with a scheduled night dive through a professional dive operator. (fla-keys.com)
ROAM AMONG WILD HORSES AND BISON MICANOPY
One of Florida’s best-kept secrets is the 21,000-acre savanna at the state’s core, protected as Paynes Prairie Preserve State Park and home to herds of wild bison and horses. Take your pick of eight trails, including the 16-mile paved GainesvilleHawthorne State Trail, in hopes of frolicking among these unlikely residents—and capturing some stunning images along the way. (floridastateparks.org)
SWIM WITH SHARKS
JUPITER
MICKEY SMITH
WHILE MOST ARE CONTENT TO LIMIT INTERACTION WITH THE PLANET’S FIERCEST FISH TO THEIR HD SCREENS, A NICHE MARKET HAS GROWN FOR EXTREME MARINE EXPEDITIONS IN REAL LIFE AND REAL TIME. SUBMERGED IN EARTH’S TECHNICOLOR AQUARIUM, ALL ANTHROPOGENIC BORDERS DISAPPEAR, AND WE QUICKLY LEARN THAT, UNDER THE SEA, IT’S A SHARK’S WORLD AND WE’RE JUST SWIMMING IN IT. JOIN THE CREW OF SHARK ADDICTS IN JUPITER TO FREE DIVE AMONG THE OCEAN’S APEX PREDATORS, WHICH VARY DEPENDING ON THE SEASON BUT OFTEN INCLUDE BULL SHARKS, DUSKIES, HAMMERHEADS, AND LEMON SHARKS. ANTICIPATE A FREAK-OUT MOMENT UPON ENTERING SHARK-INFESTED WATERS— FEELING AT ONCE EXCITED, SCARED, AND INTIMIDATED. SOON, HOWEVER, AWE REPLACES FEAR, AND A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME WILD INTERACTION COMMENCES. (SHARKADDICTSJUPITER.COM)
PAUL RUBIO
COURTESY OF DISCOVERCRYSTALRIVERFL.COM
MINGLE WITH MANATEES
CRYSTAL RIVER
PAUL RUBIO
See Bobcats, Otters, Gators, and More
Lakeland On the northwest shore of Lake Hancock in Lakeland, a former cattle ranch has been restored to its natural marsh state—and the full cast of Florida’s Jungle Book appears to have received the memo. In the 1,267-acre urban oasis known as Circle B Bar Reserve, go on a Sunshine State safari via nine trails, keeping your eyes open and ears alert for eagles, osprey, owls, bobcats, otters, gray foxes, fox squirrels, and the colossal, 12-foot-long gator named Humpback who has set the internet on fire. (polknature.com)
LYNETTE SPENCE
WHILE MANATEES ON FLORIDA’S EAST COAST REMAIN IN CRISIS DUE TO POLLUTION, FOOD SHORTAGES, AND BOAT STRIKES, THE WEST COAST POPULATION IS THRIVING THANKS TO STAUNCH PROTECTION AND A DECADE OF EELGRASS RESTORATION BY ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS SAVE CRYSTAL RIVER AND SEA & SHORELINE. IN FACT, IN EARLY 2022, OFFICIALS RECORDED 1,333 MANATEES IN CITRUS COUNTY WATERS, THE HIGHEST NUMBER EVER DOCUMENTED. THE HEART OF THIS MANATEE UTOPIA IS CRYSTAL RIVER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, WHERE THE GENTLE GIANTS BASK IN THE WARMTH OF NATURAL SPRINGS. IT ALSO HAPPENS TO BE THE ONLY PLACE ON THE PLANET WHERE HUMANS CAN SWIM AMONG MANATEES. A STAY AT THE WATERFRONT PLANTATION ON CRYSTAL RIVER IS ANCHORED BY THE OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH MANATEES THROUGH TOURS OFFERED BY THE HOTEL’S PLANTATION ADVENTURE CENTER. WHILE NUMBERS ARE GREATEST DURING WINTER, SOME MANATEES RESIDE IN THE AREA YEAR-ROUND—AND GO-PRO-EQUIPPED NATURALISTS ARE AT THE READY TO CAPTURE YOUR UNDERWATER ADVENTURE. (DISCOVERCRYSTALRIVERFL. COM; PLANTATIONONCRYSTAL RIVER.COM)
KELLY ROGERS
PAUL RUBIO
COMB THE BEACH FOR
SEA TURTLES MELBOURNE BEACH
Between May and October, tens of thousands of endangered sea turtles—mainly loggerheads, greens, and leatherbacks—arrive on Florida’s shores to nest. Approximately two months later, hatchlings emerge from the sand and begin the journey called life. Lucky for us, several coastal parks and organizations host seasonal walks in search of nesting turtles and their offspring. Some of our favorite experiences take place at Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge, which boasts the highest concentration of nesting loggerhead turtles in the western hemisphere. Here, Sea Turtle Conservancy, Friends of the Carr Refuge, Stella Maris Environmental Research, and others lead these encounters, which typically occur at night or very early in the morning. (fws.gov/refuge/archie-carr) —Paul Rubio
NOT YOUR AVERAGE EVERGLADES [ [HOW TO STAY STYLISH IN THE SWAMP
BRENDA STELZER PAUL RUBIO
Spanning more than 2,400 square miles, most of which remains impenetrable, Everglades National Park is an untamed beast of subtropical wilderness that begs an honest question from luxury travelers: Is it possible to immerse in these extreme wilds without completely roughing it?
The short answer is yes, thanks namely to Clyde Butcher, the celebrated photographer synonymous with the Florida Everglades. On the park’s outskirts but still within the Everglades’ ecosystem in Big Cypress National Preserve, Butcher invites travelers to experience the best of the region through his Big Cypress Gallery swamp rentals (explorebigcypress. com). The duo of accommodations—one a cozy one-bedroom bungalow and the second a twobedroom, family-friendly cottage—are located directly behind Butcher’s gallery (clydebutcher. com), where his black-and-white masterpieces are on display. (Many of these captivating images were snapped in the swamplands surrounding the cottages.) A standout of staying at the cottages—besides breakfast with baby gators and wading birds at your feet—is a guided swamp walk eco-tour, which entails getting up close with the Everglades by slogging waist-deep through the flooded terrain.
The rentals’ prime location also puts other Everglades highlights within reach. Visit Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary (corkscrew. audubon.org) to search for the likes of barred owls and rubythroated hummingbirds while keeping watch for summerspecific spectacles like the world’s largest ghost orchid in bloom and the seasonal appearance of bioluminescent tree fungi. Head to Chokoloskee for a private photography and birding excursion across the Everglades’ Ten Thousand Islands with Everglades Boat Tours (everglades-boattours. com). Explore a labyrinth of coastal mangrove islets and narrow channels, snapping scenes of roseate spoonbills taking flight, predatory hawks catching a snack, bottlenose dolphins leaping through the air, and rookeries teeming with just-hatched pelicans, ibises, and egrets.
Finally, indulge in memorable Everglades-to-table meals at Everglades City’s best no-frills restaurants. Try Triad Seafood Market & Café (triadseafood marketcafe.com) for fried alligator tail and stone crabs fresh off the boat when in season. Be sure to check out Camellia Street Grill (camelliastreetgrill.com) for hyper-fresh blackened grouper salad and decadent peanut butter pie. (paradisecoast.com) –P.R.
NIKI BUTCHER
Clockwise from far left: Barred owl; tricolored heron; Big Cypress Gallery bungalow; Clyde Butcher Everglades eco-tour.
KAYLA OBENDORF KOPP
SUBTERRANEAN SPLENDOR [ [CARVED BY THE HANDS OF TIME, THESE SPRINGS AND CAVES UNDERSCORE THE COMPLEXITY AND BEAUTY OF FLORIDA’S OCALA/MARION COUNTY VIS ITORS AN D C O N V E NT I ON BUREAU OTHERWORLDLY HOLLOWS
RAINBOW Springs
MATT MARRIOTT, MATT MARRIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY / DISCOVER CRYSTAL RIVER FLORIDA
THREE SISTERS SPRINGS
CRYSTAL RIVER
OF FLORIDA’S MYRIAD SPRINGS, NONE IMPRESSES MORE THAN SIBLINGS PRETTY SISTER, DEEP SISTER, AND LITTLE SISTER, TOGETHER COMPRISING A 1-ACRE EXPANSE OF MESMERIZING BLUE-OMBRE WATERS, SAND VOLCANOES, AND UNDERWATER VENTS IN CRYSTAL RIVER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE. WHILE IT’S POSSIBLE TO CIRCUMVENT THE SPRINGS OVERLAND VIA WALKING TRAILS AND TO KAYAK WITHIN, THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE GALS IS WITH A MASK AND SNORKEL. OOH AND AAH OVER THE FERVENT BUBBLES RISING FROM INNER EARTH, OGLE THE INSANE COLORS OF THE WATER, AND— BEST OF ALL—LOOK FORWARD TO POSSIBLE ENCOUNTERS WITH THE MANATEES THAT FREQUENT THE SPRINGS. (DISCOVERCRYSTAL RIVERFL.COM) —P.R.
Ocala Rainbow Springs, at the headwaters of the Rainbow River, is known for water so clear you can see all the way to the bottom. It’s best to experience the springs in the early morning, as the fog lifts and the resident wildlife is active. The preferred mode of transport is the kayak, though tubing is supremely popular with families. Either way, you’ll cross crystalline waters and gaze at fish darting in and out of aquatic grasses on your way to view the area’s famed waterfalls. Swimming is a must, with the water averaging 72 degrees and a depth of 5 to 18 feet. (visitrainbowsprings.com) —Daphne Nikolopoulos
DEVIL’S DEN SPRING WILLISTON
THIS PREHISTORIC SPRING HAS LONG ENTRANCED FLORIDIANS, WITH EARLY SETTLERS NAMING IT “DEVIL’S DEN” BECAUSE OF THE STEAM THAT RISES THROUGH ITS CHIMNEY ON COLD MORNINGS. NESTLED WITHIN A DRY CAVE, THE SPRING’S DEPTH TOPS OUT AT 54 FEET AND THE WATER IS 72 DEGREES YEAR-ROUND. WHILE GENERAL SWIMMING IS NOT ALLOWED, DEVIL’S DEN WELCOMES DIVERS AND SNORKELERS EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK, WITH NIGHT DIVES AVAILABLE BY APPOINTMENT. (DEVILSDEN.COM) —MARY MURRAY
FLORIDA CAVERNS STATE PARK MARIANNA
One of Florida’s greatest—and most unexpected—natural treasures is an elaborate cave system etched into the northern reaches of the Panhandle and accessible through Florida Caverns State Park. Under the direction of a skilled guide, travelers can traverse a series of mind-boggling cavernous chambers, each a unique karst expanse erupting in ethereal formations of stalactites, stalagmites, flowstones, and draperies. (floridastateparks.org) —P.R.
WEIRD,WACKY,AND UNKNOWN [ [WHERE FLORIDA FOLKLORE AND THE STATE’S SUPERNATURAL SIDE COME ALIVE
Coral Castle Museum
Homestead Did Edward Leedskalnin use paranormal powers or call upon alien aid when constructing a massive sculpture garden out of tons of coral rock? You can judge for yourself when you visit the Coral Castle Museum, which hosts Psychic Saturdays—with palm readers and fortune tellers—the fi rst Saturday of every month. (coralcastle.com)
ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES RILEY
WEEKI WACHEE SPRINGS MERMAID SHOWS SPRING HILL
Finned femme fatales are a reality at Weeki Wachee Springs State Park. Thrice daily, mermaids take to the tank to perform an underwater show, supported by oxygen hoses. These aquatic theatrics have been a staple of the Weeki Wachee Springs experience since 1947, but other on-site activities range from river boat cruises to a seasonal water park. (weekiwachee.com)
ROBERT THE DOLL KEY WEST
IF KEY WEST IS WHERE THE WEIRD GO PRO, THEN ROBERT THE DOLL IS THE ISLAND’S UNOFFICIAL MASCOT. ROBERT WAS THE CHILDHOOD COMPANION OF ROBERT EUGENE “GENE” OTTO, WHO WOULD OFTEN BLAME HIS MISDEEDS ON THE SAILOR-SUITED DOLL. SINCE THE 1940S, PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED SEEING ROBERT MOVE, LAUGH, AND THROW THINGS. HE RESIDES AT THE FORT EAST MARTELLO MUSEUM, WHERE HE RECEIVES VISITORS DAILY OR NIGHTLY AS PART OF SLOAN’S GHOST FORT ADVENTURES. (KWAHS.ORG/MUSEUMS; GHOSTFORT.COM)
THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH ST. AUGUSTINE
The original Florida tall tale, the Fountain of Youth does exist—kind of. Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park is the site of the city of St. Augustine circa 1565. Start at the Spring House, a coquina building with a spring that dates to at least the seventeenth century, fed by the Floridan aquifer and boasting more than 30 minerals. Additional highlights include a planetarium, a blacksmith exhibit, and peacocks galore. (fountainofyouthfl orida.com)
MARY MURRAY
SOUTHERN CASSADAGA SPIRITUALIST CAMP
CASSADAGA
JUST AN HOUR NORTH OF ORLANDO AWAITS THIS SPIRITUALIST COMMUNITY FOUNDED IN 1894. VISITORS CAN EMBARK ON A HISTORICAL TOUR (HOSTED FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS) TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS UNIQUE DESTINATION WHERE HOMES HAVE SECOND-FLOOR SPIRIT DOORS AND MANY OF THE RESIDENTS ARE MEDIUMS OR HEALERS. THOSE INTERESTED IN A READING SHOULD BOOK IN ADVANCE AND ATTEND WITH AN OPEN MIND. (CASSADAGA.ORG) —M.M.
THE KENNEDY SPACE
CENTER CAPE CANAVERAL
Is there anything cooler than feeling the power of a rocket launch? Floridians can do that and more in their own backyard. Make a day of space exploration at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, where you can experiment with high-tech simulators inside Space Shuttle Atlantis and visit the national memorial honoring fallen astronauts from the American space program. New this year is Gateway: The Deep Space Launch Complex, which chronicles current and forthcoming advances. Pro tip: Keep an eye on launch schedules as they often change due to weather conditions. (kennedy spacecenter.com) —Melissa Puppo
KENNEDY SPACE CENTER VISITOR COMPLEX
EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES AND ISLANDS[ [THE STATE’S MUST-VISIT LOCALES AND MUST-DO ACTIVITIES
©2022 – SALVADOR DALÍ MUSEUM, INC., ST. PETERSBURG, FL
THEME PARK THRILLS
ORLANDO
THERE’S A REASON WHY MORE THAN 60 MILLION OUTSIDERS FLOCK TO ORLANDO EVERY YEAR: IT’S THE THEME PARK CAPITAL OF THE WORLD. WHETHER YOU WANT TO SNAP A PHOTO WITH MICKEY IN FRONT OF CINDERELLA’S CASTLE IN MAGIC KINGDOM OR EAT AND DRINK YOUR WAY ACROSS THE CONTINENTS AT EPCOT, THERE IS SOMETHING FOR ALL AGES AND INTERESTS AT WALT DISNEY WORLD. ONE OF THE PARKS YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS? UNIVERSAL. TAKE YOUR PICK BETWEEN UNIVERSAL STUDIOS, ISLANDS OF ADVENTURE, AND THE VOLCANO BAY WATER PARK. AND WHILE THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW TO SEE AT UNIVERSAL, SIPPING A BUTTER BEER AND RIDING HARRY POTTER AND THE ESCAPE FROM GRINGOTTS IN THE WIZARDING WORLD OF HARRY POTTER NEVER LOSES ITS CHARM. (DISNEYWORLD.DISNEY.GO.COM; UNIVERSALORLANDO.COM) —M.P.
THE DALÍ Museum
St. Petersburg A cultural beacon in the heart of downtown St. Pete, The Dalí Museum is home to more than 2,400 works by the late Spanish Surrealist artist. The building itself is a work of art, enhanced by a bubble composed of 1,062 pieces of triangular glass. Salvador Dalí was a renegade innovator, and the museum takes this spirit to heart in the form of augmented and virtual reality experiences as well as artificial intelligence that resurrects Dalí. Special exhibitions on view this summer include works by student surrealists and the first U.S. solo show by UruguayanSpanish artist Yamandú Canosa. (thedali.org) —M.M.
©SALVADOR DALÍ. FUNDACIÓ GALA-SALVADOR DALÍ, (ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY), 2021 / COLLECTION OF THE SALVADOR DALÍ MUSEUM, INC., ST. PETERSBURG, FL, 2022
Above: The Hallucinogenic Toreador, Salvador Dalí, The Dalí Museum
KEEWAYDIN ISLAND
SEAN GILMORE
Little Palm ISLAND
Being isolated on a sandbar of an island with more coves than people may be an urbanite’s fantasy, but for those of us within driving distance of the Florida Keys, it’s as real as the coconuts that line these shores. Little Palm Island is the stuff of fairy tales—remote, lush, magical—and it’s located in the Straits of Florida, a short boat or seaplane ride from Little Torch Key.
The 4-acre private island has a long history as a getaway for luminaries, including several celebrities and a U.S. president. (Harry S. Truman famously spent time here in the 1940s, fishing for tarpon and entertaining dignitaries.) These days, Little Palm Island honors its past by embracing a socialclub aesthetic that dials back to the heyday of American royalty. Steeped in romance, it is a favorite of honeymooning couples and anyone looking for a secluded hideaway where top-notch dining, wellness offerings, and just about any activity in or on the water are apropos to the experience.
If you’ve ever spent time in a treehouse, you already know what the thatched-roof bungalows feel like. Elevated from the sand and surrounded by wood-plank decks, these elegantly tropical accommodations come with private beaches, hammocks, firepits, outdoor tubs and showers—in short, everything you need to ignite castaway fantasies. But be warned: After a few days here, you might not want to be rescued. (littlepalmisland.com) —D.N. Located 3 miles off Naples, Keewaydin Island is one of the largest unbridged islands in Southwest Florida. The majority of its 1,300 acres is conserved land, part of the Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve (rookerybay.org) and home to a rich habitat and excellent shelling.
The northern tip boasts pioneer history and a dozen privately owned cottages that are sometimes available to rent. There is no infrastructure on the island—and no public dock or bathroom facilities. Most visitors make it a day trip on a private or rented boat or through charter and sightseeing companies. Rookery Bay, Hemingway Water Shuttle, and Pure Naples, among others, offer trips.
This slice of paradise is close to the sophisticated culture of Marco Island and Fifth Avenue South. The Inn on Fifth and its Club Level Suites (innonfifth.com) are within 10 minutes of Pure Naples’ pontoon docked at Tin City on the Gordon River (purenaples.com), and the journey out passes Naples landmarks, the mansions of Port Royal, and mangrove-fringed barrier islands. Locals refer to the southern tip as Boater’s Beach, where they tether their boats offshore. The food boat Just Beachy Burgers & More is open most days for lunch. Visitors who want to spot wildlife seek out hiking trails or head to the island’s west side. About 30 yards out is a sizJHIRD FOR V C B able sandbar that rewards waders with a knee-deep perch when the tide is out. —Cathy Chestnut
THE LIGHTNER
MUSEUM ST. AUGUSTINE
THE GILDED AGE COMES TO LIFE AT THIS GEM OF A MUSEUM THAT HOUSES ART, CURIOSITIES, FURNITURE, MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, AND MORE FROM THE LATE EIGHTEENTH AND EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURIES. THE COLLECTION LIVES INSIDE THE FORMER ALCAZAR HOTEL, A SPANISH RENAISSANCE REVIVAL BUILDING COMMISSIONED BY HENRY FLAGLER AND COMPLETED IN 1888. VISITORS CAN TOUR UNIQUE SPACES, INCLUDING A LUSH COURTYARD, EXPANSIVE BATHS, A GYMNASIUM, AND AN INDOOR POOL AREA THAT HAS BEEN REPURPOSED AS CAFÉ ALCAZAR. (LIGHTNERMUSEUM.ORG) —M.M.
ICONIC HOTELS AND RESORTS [ [OVERNIGHT AT SOME OF FLORIDA’S LIVING LEGENDS
THE TERRACE HOTEL LAKELAND
Rewind to 1924, when the Lakeland Terrace Hotel debuted as Florida’s first air-conditioned hotel. Back then, little Lakeland was experiencing a big economic boom, fueled by Florida’s growing status as a vacation destination. Soon, the high-rise hotel overlooking serene Lake Mirror became a favorite of the roaring twenties elite. Fast-forward nearly 100 years, and today’s traveler can again bask in the glory of the 88-room property, reinvented after a head-to-toe renovation as The Terrace Hotel Lakeland, Tapestry Collection by Hilton. In its current form, the hotel commingles Art Deco flair with contemporary works by local artists. Patterned furnishings and soft goods in common spaces are inspired by native flora and fauna, while guest rooms skew mid-century modern.
Base yourself here for easy access to Central Florida’s enchanting lake district, wildlife-rich Circle B Bar Reserve, or even the theme park excess of Tampa, Orlando, or nearby Legoland. Also look forward to exceptional eclectic dining at the Terrace Grille, including the awardwinning “Garlic,” a roasted-garlic-poached scallop, crowned with garlic cream foam, candied garlic chips, and a black garlic tuile. (hilton.com) —P.R.
CASA MONICA
RESORT & SPA ST. AUGUSTINE
THOSE LOOKING TO SPEND TIME IN ST.
AUGUSTINE—FLORIDA’S OLDEST CITY AND ONE OF ITS MOST QUAINT DESTINATIONS—CAN FIND REPRIEVE AT THE CASA MONICA RESORT & SPA, PART OF THE MARRIOTT AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION. LOCATED IN
THE CITY’S HISTORIC DISTRICT JUST STEPS FROM FLAGLER COLLEGE AND OTHER FAMOUS SIGHTS, THIS
PREMIER PROPERTY WAS BUILT IN 1888 AND FEATURES MOORISH REVIVAL–INSPIRED DESIGN ELEMENTS. ON-SITE GEMS INCLUDE FIVE SUITES (ONE HAS COLORED GLASSWORK FROM THE ORIGINAL HOTEL),
THE POSEIDON SPA, RESTAURANT CASA BRAVA, AND THE COBALT LOUNGE, WHICH IS AN IDEAL SPOT FOR A NIGHTCAP AFTER A DAY OF EXPLORATION. (KESSLERCOLLECTION.COM/CASA-MONICA) —M.P.
ARROW STUDIO LLC MORIS MORENO
FONTAINEBLEAU
MIAMI BEACH
WHETHER YOU’RE COMING TO MIAMI TO RELAX OR ENJOY THE THRILLS OF THE WORLD’S SEXIEST CITY, NOTHING COMPARES TO THE FONTAINEBLEAU. EFFORTLESS LUXURY MEETS A HIGH-END NIGHTCLUB VIBE AT THIS MORRIS LAPIDUS–DESIGNED PROPERTY THAT’S BEEN FEATURED IN MOVIES LIKE SCARFACE AND JAMES BOND’S GOLDFINGER. BY DAY, RELAX IN A CABANA AT ONE OF THE 11 POOLS, RECEIVE AN INDULGENT TREATMENT AT THE LAPIS SPA, AND ADMIRE ARTWORKS FROM JAMES TURRELL AND SOL LEWITT. AS THE SUN SETS, DINE AT ONE OF A HANDFUL OF CONCEPTS RANGING FROM SCARPETTA, CELEBRITY CHEF SCOTT CONANT’S ITALIAN EATERY, TO HAKKASAN, WHICH SERVES MODERN CANTONESE FARE AND DIM SUM. AFTERWARD, PARTY LIKE YOU’RE 21 AGAIN INSIDE THE ICONIC LIV NIGHTCLUB, WHERE BOTTLES ARE APLENTY AND PERFORMANCES BY ACTS SUCH AS TIËSTO AND BAD BUNNY ARE AS WILD AS THE SETTING ITSELF. (FONTAINEBLEAU.COM) —M.P.
PAUL WARCHOL
COURTESY OF THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH
THE BILTMORE HOTEL CORAL GABLES
A National Historic Landmark, The Biltmore is worth a stay for its grand architecture alone. Since its debut in 1926, The Biltmore has lived many lives, including serving as a hospital during World War II, which it remained until 1968. Restored as a hotel in 1987, this crown jewel of Coral Gables flaunts a Mediterranean Revival design inclusive of hand-painted frescos, marble columns, and carved mahogany furnishings. Guests return time and again to dip in the 600,000-gallon pool, live like royalty in one of the opulent suites, play a round of golf on the Donald Ross–designed course, THE BILTMORE HOTEL MIAMI and dine at the award-winning Italian restaurant Fontana. (biltmorehotel.com) —M.P.
COURTESY OF THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH COURTESY OF THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH
The Breakers
Palm Beach The grande dame of Palm Beach doesn’t wear Oscar de la Renta and a tiara—but she does look amazing for her 126 years. The Breakers, Palm Beach’s most iconic hotel whose history dates back to the Gilded Age, was founded by Henry Morrison Flagler as a seaside resort for the wealthy patrons traveling south on his famed railroad. Flagler’s descendants still own the resort and have preserved his ideals of timeless elegance and refined service. The Palm Beach experience really is incomplete without a stay here—or at least a visit to classic Breakers restaurants like the Seafood Bar and The Circle, which serves a princely
Scenes from The Breakers, clockwise
breakfast daily and
from above: The lobby, with its vaulted
ceiling and design by Adam D. Tihany; a Sunday brunch to
Imperial Suite; shrimp pad thai at Echo;
end all brunches. Or
cocktails at Flagler Steakhouse.
take the chauffeured Tesla to Echo for a lobster tempura roll and a Buddha’s Fizz. For next-level privacy, we recommend the Flagler Club, a 25-room boutique hotel within the hotel. Luxury aside, the club offers the most Instagrammable sunset view in all of Palm Beach—and some amazing sundowners to go with it. (thebreakers.com) —D.N.
COURTESY OF THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH
COURTESY JOE’S STONE CRAB RESTAURANT
JOE’S STONE
CRAB MIAMI FABULOUS FOOD [ [LONG BEFORE THE MODERN FOODIE MOVEMENT, THESE RESTAURANTS AND SWEET SHOPS SOLIDIFIED THEIR STATUS AS FLORIDA ICONS
This South Beach icon has been cracking the claws of Florida’s prized stone crabs for more than a century—and diners still can’t get enough. While some reservations are available at this old-school institution, prepare for long waits to score chilled delicacies in jumbo, large, select, or medium, gently cracked and served with a secret mustard sauce plus a very necessary bib. When visiting outside of stone crab season (which takes place October 15 to May 1), enjoy an array of succulent dishes and sides that are almost as famous as its crabs: the chopped salad, blackened mahi-mahi, hashed brown potatoes, skinny fried sweets, and key lime pie, to name a few. (joesstonecrab.com) —P.R.
BERN’S STEAK HOUSE TAMPA
COLUMB I A RES T A U R A N T
BERN’S RECALLS A TIME WHEN DINING WAS AN EXPERIENCE WITH A CAPITAL “E.” MAKE RESERVATIONS FAR IN ADVANCE TO SAVOR USDA PRIME DRY-AGED STEAKS, COMPLEMENTED BY A SELECTION FROM THE MASSIVE WINE CELLAR. THE PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE IS THE HARRY WAUGH DESSERT ROOM. YOU READ THAT RIGHT: AN ENTIRE SECTION OF THE RESTAURANT IS DEVOTED TO SWEETS, FROM BAKED ALASKAS TO CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER TRUFFLES AND WHATEVER ELSE YOUR HEART DESIRES. (BERNS STEAKHOUSE. COM) —M.M.
Columbia Restaurant
COLUMBIA RESTAURANT
For authentic Cuban cuisine, Tampayou can’t beat Columbia. In 1905, Casimiro Hernandez opened a 60-seat café in Ybor City to serve Cuban coffee and sandwiches to immigrant cigar factory workers. Now regarded as the state’s oldest restaurant, Columbia is lauded for its comprehensive menu of Cuban delicacies as well as its charming ambience. Don’t sleep on the paella à la Valenciana or the velvety flan. (columbiarestaurant.com) —M.M.
DAVIDSON OF DUNDEE
DAVIDSON OF DUNDEE DUNDEE
This roadside must-stop offers a sweet taste of Old Florida. Watch as confectioners tip a steaming concoction from a copper kettle onto a marble-topped table to form jellied candies in fresh-from-the-grove flavors like honeybell, key lime, and grapefruit. Snag a sample or two and be sure to bring home several jars of the house-made preserves. Our favorites? Coconut butter, guava jelly, and the iconic Florida Hurricane marmalade—a mashup of orange, pineapple, and mango that’s like sunshine in a jar. (davidsonofdundee.com) —Kristen Desmond LeFevre
Ask around, and Miami locals will steer you toward a taste of Cuba stateside at Versailles, an institution in the Little Havana neighborhood. A tall, flashy sign reading “The World’s Most Famous Cuban Restaurant” beckons visitors to its cafeteria-style digs, outfitted in green upholstery and chandeliers that pay homage to its namesake French palace. This culinary landmark is best known for its Cubano sandwich, but save room for other classic plates like fried pork chunks served with rice, beans, and sweet plantains. A walk-up ventanita (“little window”) makes ordering a colada coffee and a fresh guava and cheese pastelito a breeze. (versaillesrestaurant.com) —M.P.
CAP’S Place
Lighthouse Point When it opened in 1928, Cap’s Place was a casino and speakeasy likely hidden from the law because of its secret location: It’s perched on an island off Lighthouse Point and can only be reached by boat. We love a restaurant with a checkered past. If you can look past the shabby-chic buildings, you’ll find some of the best seafood in Florida. You can’t go wrong with anything on Cap’s menu, but we’re here to tell you that the seafood-stuffed Maine lobster is worthy of last-meal status. And don’t skip the Okeechobee hearts of palm salad; it’s the real deal, and you don’t find that very often. In a day of destination dining and glitzy chef-driven restaurants, Broward County’s oldest—and most colorful—restaurant still reigns supreme. (capsplace.com) —D.N.
THE BUBBLE ROOM CAPTIVA
IF YOU HAVEN’T EXPERIENCED THE BUBBLE ROOM’S TOY TRAINS, 1940S MUSIC, AND KITSCHY CHRISTMAS DECOR, ARE YOU EVEN A FLORIDIAN? HERE’S SOME ADVICE: SKIP LUNCH AND GO STRAIGHT FOR THE CAKE. THE MILE-HIGH CONFECTIONS ARE WORTH THE DRIVE TO CAPTIVA, BUT BRACE YOURSELF FOR THE EXISTENTIAL CONFLICT OVER WHICH TO CHOOSE. THE WHITE CHRISTMAS, WITH ITS AIRY WHITE CAKE AND WHIPPED CREAM? THE BUTTERCRUNCH ICE CREAM PIE, WHICH WE CAN’T EVEN SAY WITHOUT SALIVATING? THE JAMAICAN RUM CAKE, GENEROUSLY SOAKED IN JAMAICA’S FINEST? TO EARN YOUR FLORIDIAN STRIPES, YOU’LL NEED TO DO YOUR SACRED DUTY AND TRY THEM ALL. (BUBBLEROOMRESTAURANT.COM) —D.N.
VERSAILLES RESTAURANT MIAMI
THE YEARLING RESTAURANT
HAWTHORNE
SET BENEATH A CANOPY OF GRANDDADDY OAKS AND SCRUB PALMS THAT POPULATE MARJORIE KINNAN RAWLINGS HISTORIC STATE PARK, THE YEARLING HAS BEEN SERVING UP DELICIOUS BUT UNFANCY FLORIDA FARE SINCE 1952. PREPARE TO BE TRANSPORTED BACK IN TIME VIA YOUR TASTE BUDS: FROM FROG’S LEGS AND GATOR TO VENISON AND DUCK, YOU’LL SAMPLE THE DELICACIES THAT FLORIDA PIONEERS AND NATIVES HAVE HUNTED, TRAPPED, AND SERVED AS SUPPER FOR GENERATIONS. (YEARLING RESTAURANT.NET) —K.D.L.
JAXSON’S ICE CREAM PARLOR & RESTAURANT
DANIA BEACH
FLORIDA EATS [ [OUR EDITORS SHARE THEIR PERSONAL PICKS OF THE RESTAURANTS AND DISHES WORTH TRAVELING FOR
DIXIE FRIED CHICKEN
BELLE GLADE
“Fried and gone to heaven’’ is the unofficial mantra at this half-century-old local favorite, affectionately known as DFC. Go for the freshly fried chicken by the box or bucket, but don’t miss the chicken wingettes or the catfish fingers. On Mondays only, make the worthwhile trek to DFC for the homemade chicken and dumplings, but reserve your order ahead as they often sell out. (561-996-4000) —K.D.L.
THIS SOUTH FLORIDA MAINSTAY SINCE 1956 IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS GOT-TO-SEEIT-TO-BELIEVE-IT HEADLINER: THE ORIGINAL KITCHEN SINK. CONCEIVED BY FOUNDER MONROE UDELL AND SERVED IN AN ACTUAL KITCHEN SINK, THIS SUNDAE ON STEROIDS BOASTS A POUND OF ICE CREAM PER PERSON, TOPPED WITH BANANAS, HOMEMADE WHIPPED CREAM, MIXED NUTS, AND CHERRIES. IT’S THEN LIT WITH SPARKLERS BEFORE ARRIVING TABLESIDE. AT LEAST FOUR PEOPLE ARE REQUIRED TO DEVOUR THIS BEAST OF A DESSERT. (JAXSONS ICECREAM.COM) —M.P.
SHERRY ANN MORRIS The Mucky Duck
Cold brews and sunset Captivaviews is the theme at The Mucky Duck, one of Captiva’s must-visit restaurants. Perched right on the sand by the water’s edge, the Duck offers a front-row seat to the famed “green flash” that follows the sun’s dip below the horizon (but don’t look for it until after the second round of margaritas). While you wait for the spectacle, order up some “BBQ Shrimp & Bacon,” bacon-wrapped shrimp brushed with barbecue sauce and grilled. It’s been on the menu since 1976 for a reason. (muckyduck.com) —D.N.
DOUGLASR . CLIFFORD
HELLAS BAKERY & RESTAURANT
TARPON SPRINGS
THE HISTORIC SEMINOLE INN
INDIANTOWN
Despite geography, sometimes Florida doesn’t seem very Southern. But make a Sunday brunch trip to The Historic Seminole Inn (circa 1926), and you’ll be treated to a Southern-style feast that includes standouts of fried green tomatoes, scratch biscuits with sausage gravy, sweet potato casserole, and the inn’s famous peach cobbler. Georgia, eat your heart out. (seminoleinn.com) —K.D.L. Florida’s Greek village, Tarpon Springs, off ers a glimpse at the Hellenic culture, from sponge diving to tiny shops selling blue glass eyes to supper clubs with loud Greek music and patrons dancing the zeibekiko. These are all good reasons to visit, though most people come for the food. Hellas Bakery has all the classic sweet and savory baked goods (try the galaktoboureko, a semolina custard wrapped in phyllo dough and drizzled with honey syrup), and Hellas Restaurant makes a mean saganaki—fl amed tableside, of course. The menu is rather vast, featuring just about every Greek dish you can imagine. Is it as good as you’d get in a taverna in Athens? Maybe not, but it’s a fi ne alternative when you can’t get to the real thing. (hellasbakery.com) —D.N.
KANE’S CATTLE CO.
STEAKHOUSE CRYSTAL RIVER
THIS SMALL, FAMILY-OWNED STEAK HOUSE IN DOWNTOWN CRYSTAL RIVER IS A VERITABLE CARNIVORE’S DELIGHT, WITH MEAT SOURCED FROM THE FAMILY’S CATTLE FARM IN NEIGHBORING FLORAL CITY. HOWEVER, KANE’S IS SO MUCH MORE THAN PERFECT FILET MIGNON AND TOMAHAWK STEAKS. THE HOMEMADE SALAD DRESSINGS ARE EPIC—TRY THE WEDGE SALAD WITH CREAMY BLUE CHEESE—AS ARE THE OLD-FASHIONED MILKSHAKES SERVED IN MASON JARS TO KEEP AND THE EVER-CHANGING, INNOVATIVE SUSHI SPECIALS (THINK: AHI TUNA AND CUCUMBER ROLL TOPPED WITH BLUE CRAB AND DRIZZLED WITH KEY LIME SAUCE). (FACEBOOK.COM/KANESCATTLECO) —P.R.
PAUL RUBIO Sun Harvest CITRUS
No visit to Southwest Florida is complete without an Fort Myersorange-vanilla or key-lime-chocolate soft serve ice cream cone from Sun Harvest. Spot the larger-than-life orange off Six Mile Cypress Parkway and you know you’ve arrived at this family-friendly outpost, which also sells seasonal citrus, tropical tchotchkes, fresh-squeezed juices, and perfectly tart lemonade. (sunharvestcitrus.com) —M.M. «