OFF THE VINE

Chapel Down (inset and bottom right), Balfour (right), and Hattingley Valley (below) are among the most sought-after producers of English sparkling wine.

JASON ALDEN SALTWICK MEDIA

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OFF THE VINE

JASON ALDEN

BRITISH Invasion

As temperatures rise, English vintners are giving Champagne a run for its money

By Mark Spivak

Just when you thought there was no possible upside to global warming, along comes English sparkling wine.

Although sparkling wine production in the South of England only began in the 1980s, it is now home to more than 100 producers. Most are using the traditional Champagne method and the same grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier). The majority of the estates are located in Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, with the largest producers being Gusbourne and Chapel Down. Given that the area has similar soil and topography to the Champagne region across the Channel, success was probably inevitable. Even the house of Taittinger has joined the party, with its first vintage from Kent expected next year.

Champagne is frequently the standard by which English sparkling wine is measured, but there are distinctions. While the best English sparklers compare favorably to mass-market Champagne, the real analogy would be to grower Champagne. Most English producers are small, family-run, quality-oriented operations, and many of the wines display a vibrancy and freshness that commercial Champagne lacks. Here, we spotlight some wineries to watch.

BALFOUR: Founded by Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn, Balfour released its first harvest in 2004. The estate gained recognition when its brut rosé ($60) won a gold medal at the 2007 International Wine Challenge; made in small quantities every year, it’s Balfour’s flagship and

worth seeking out. Straddling the divide between brut and demi-sec, Leslie’s Reserve Gold NV ($45) is filled with tart green apple flavors and good acidity, making it a nice match with seafood and a lovely wine to enjoy on a summer’s day. (balfourwinery.com)

GUSBOURNE: Imported by Broadbent Selections, Gusbourne is readily available around the United States. The Estate Brut Reserve 2016 ($55) contains Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It’s remarkably well-balanced, with a creamy texture and classic Chardonnay flavors of citrus, melon, apple, and pear. It’s also an excellent value for a vintage-dated Brut. (gusbourne.com)

CHAPEL DOWN: Kent’s largest producer thumbs its nose at its French counterpart by stating that it operates “without the confines of 350 years’ worth of rules and traditions.” Chapel Down’s Classic Brut NV ($50) is brash and forward on entry, but it fleshes out in the mid-palate to reveal flavors of vanilla, citrus, custard, and candied fruit, all of which linger on a subtle finish. This charming wine is finding its way onto the shelves of both boutique retailers and big-box stores. (chapeldown.com)

RIDGEVIEW: Mike and Christine Roberts established Ridgeview in the South Downs of Sussex in 1995, and it remains a family winery. They produce nonvintage brut (Cavendish and Bloomsbury), blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs, and several bottlings of rosé. Pale salmon in color, Fitzrovia Rosé NV ($60) blends wild berry flavors with earthy, savory notes. It was deemed good enough for Queen Elizabeth to serve to President Obama at Buckingham Palace in 2011. (ridgeview.co.uk)

HATTINGLEY VALLEY: Simon Robinson gave up practicing law in 2008 to become a vintner. With the help of winemaker Emma Rice, he transformed this rural Hampshire property into an eco-friendly, stateof-the-art vineyard and winery. Classic Reserve ($45), Hattingley’s nonvintage brut, contains nearly equal parts Chardonnay and black grapes. The clean, fresh texture combines vivid lemon flavors with hints of yeast and brioche. (hattingleyvalley.com)

Other English sparkling wines worth investigating include Denbies, Kingscote, Langham, Camel Valley, Nyetimber, Furleigh Estate, Breaky Bottom, Harrow & Hope, Court Garden, and Greyfriars. Distribution is increasing among both boutique retailers and big-box stores, as well as with online sellers such as wine.com. «

Hattingley Valley winery in Hampshire, England

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