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THE ELECTRIC EYE PHOTOGRAPHY
OFF THE VINE
SALTWICK MEDIA
Chapel Down (inset and bottom right), Balfour (right), and Hattingley Valley (below) are among the most sought-after producers of English sparkling wine.
JASON ALDEN
JASON ALDEN
EAT DRINK
BRITISH Invasion
As temperatures rise, English vintners are giving Champagne a run for its money
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By Mark Spivak
ust when you thought there was no possible upside to global warming, along comes English sparkling wine. Although sparkling wine production in the South of England only began in the 1980s, it is now home to more than 100 producers. Most are using the traditional Champagne method and the same grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier). The majority of the estates are located in Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, with the largest producers being Gusbourne and Chapel Down. Given that the area has similar soil and topography to the Champagne region across the Channel, success was probably inevitable. Even the house of Taittinger has joined the party, with its first vintage from Kent expected next year.
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Champagne is frequently the standard by which English sparkling wine is measured, but there are distinctions. While the best English sparklers compare favorably to mass-market Champagne, the real analogy would be to grower Champagne. Most English producers are small, family-run, quality-oriented operations, and many of the wines display a vibrancy and freshness that commercial Champagne lacks. Here, we spotlight some wineries to watch. BALFOUR: Founded by Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn, Balfour released its first harvest in 2004. The estate gained recognition when its brut rosé ($60) won a gold medal at the 2007 International Wine Challenge; made in small quantities every year, it’s Balfour’s flagship and
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