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AC-22 Vinyl Awning Cleaner Formulated to quickly and safely remove normal dirt and grime from woven fabric materials. Can be used as a heavy duty cleaner or for light duty scheduled maintenance. Click Here
Canvas and Vinyl Super Awning Cleaner A specially formulated blend of active deep cleaning agents to give the maintenance professional the one cleaning tool required to remove even the most deeply embedded soils. Use it to remove sap, bird droppings, pollution, & run-off. Click Here
Vinyl Awning Protectant Helps enhance colors. Restores softness and suppleness, and provides a degree of protection from the sun, rain and airborne soils. Click Here
AC-12 Fabric Awning Cleaner Formulated to quickly and safely remove normal dirt and grime from woven fabric materials. Click Here
Canvas Awning Water Repellent Specifically designed to protect all types of woven fabrics (both manmade and natural fibers). Easy to apply and easy to maintain Canvas Awning Water Repellent is safe for all color fast fabrics and may be used with confidence on most acrylics. Click Here
2-n-1 Vinyl Awning Treatment A balanced system of surface active agents for cleaning, plasticizers to keep vinyl like new and supple and UV inhibitors to deter the damaging affects weather. Click Here
Unger Pro Window Washer Bucket 6 Gallon Deluxe Edition Unger Bucket Barge with Casters Don’t lift it...roll it! This perfect accessory for the Pro Window Washer Bucket features smooth-gliding swivel ball casters and bumper guards to protect against splashes. It holds onto the bucket base and is easily detachable. Unger Bucket Sieve This compliment to your Pro Window Washer Bucket hooks securely onto the lip and its powder coated steel features a chemical resistant surface. Wrings out up to an 18”
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10” BI-Level Brush Tackle high-surface cleaning jobs with care using this soft-bristle non-marking wash brush. The unique angled design utilizes the bristles for optimum contact with the surface to be cleaned. Click Here
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Telescoping Wand Supports up to 4000 PSI, and it can be used with downstream chemical injectors to wash 2 story buildings from the ground. Click Here
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Low Pressure Gun Specifications: 1/2” FPT Inlet/Outlet Lock-on Trigger Loop 18.5 GPM 700 PSI Click Here
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In This Issue:
July 2012
The Building Cleaning Issue
5 Cleaning Brick: Common Problems – and Their
Solutions, by Larry Kotke, Diedrich Technologies
10 Bird Control is a Natural Add-On for Cleaning
Contractors, by Meredith Walako, Bird-B-Gone
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20 The Awning Cleaning Market: An Interview with
Wayne Shockey, Awning Cleaning Services
Additional Features
15 Sealers 101, by David Phillips, Southern Stain & Seal 16 F9 BARC: Rust, Fertilizer and Orange Battery Stain
Concrete Cleaner, Craig Harrison, Front 9 Restoration
18 UAMCC Hires Nichole Anglin 19 House Washing: All-in-One or a Two-Pass Clean?,
10
by Linda Chambers, Soap Warehouse
24 Concrete Cleaning Inside Out, Pt. 2, by Rick Meehan,
Marko Janitorial Supplies
29 Three Benefits of Commercial Building Cleaning, by Paul Horsley
Cover Photo
Courtesy of Alex Curry, ARC Power Washing in Raleigh, NC, www.ARCPW.com
eClean Magazine is published monthly Publisher: Paul Horsley, paul@ecleanmag.com Editor: Allison Hester, allison@ecleanmag.com Sales: Maurice Clark, maurice@ecleanmag.com eClean Magazine
July 2012
eClean Magazine Box 262, 16 Midlake Blvd S.E. Calgary, Alberta Canada T2X2X7 www.eCleanMag.com www.eCleanMag.com
3
Cleaning Brick Common Problems – and Their Solutions by Larry Kotke, Technical Sales Director for Diedrich Technologies, www.DiedrichTechnologies.com
photo courtesy of John Greene, Camelot Pressure Washing, www.CamelotPressureWashing.com
W
hen I was approached by eClean Magazine to write an article, I thought about which brick-cleaning problems and questions contractors have called us about the most often over the years. While there are numerous causes of problems, the one I hear most often usually starts, “The guy cleaning my brick used muriatic acid and now my red brick is pink and the mortar joints are yellow.” So let’s start there. Muriatic Acid Muriatic acid is great for a swimming pool but can be a major headache when used on masonry. Muriatic acid – which is a raw, unrefined acid – is a byproduct of steel pickling. As such, it is prone to have a lot of impurities that can leave metal particles on surfaces that result in staining. In addition, muriatic contains no detergents or wetting agent, which makes it uncontrollable. This is why brick, block, and eClean Magazine
stone manufacturers all state specifically not to use muriatic acid on their products. Instead, they will recommend the use of proprietary cleaners. These cleaning compounds contain a combination of organic and inorganic acids, wetting agent, and inhibitors to buffer, control and improve the solution’s action. Most of these products contain small amounts of hydrochloric acid (HCL), which is the pure refined version of muriatic, and have a consistent Baume (acid strength) that muriatic does not; others may have a different acid base. The proprietary cleaners are formulated to address the specific characteristics of different types of brick, block and stone, and incorporate the wetting agents necessary to keep the solutions on the surface where they need to be. This makes them controllable
July 2012
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where muriatic is not. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer of the masonry or chemicals. We can direct you to the proper cleaner for your substrate and save you time and money in having to go back and rectify what was screwed up. The manufacturer/supplier of the muriatic won’t have a clue if there is a problem. Efflorescence Another of the most encountered situations, efflorescence is caused by excessive moisture in a masonry wall. New construction can develop efflorescence simply from the normal drying process. This is sometimes referred to as “new building bloom.” As the building dries, the moisture brings the soluble salts to the surface, causing the white
salt deposits to form. Usually, this will weather off over a short period of time and stop once the building has dried completely. If a building has a reoccurring case of efflorescence, such as after a hard wind-driven rain, this indicates a moisture intrusion problem. This can be through cracks in the brick or mortar joints, bad flashing, deteriorated or missing caulking, or bad gutters or downspouts. Whatever it is, the source must be identified and corrected or the efflorescence will just keep coming back. I often get questioned on how to identify if it is actually efflorescence on the wall. One way is to wet your fingertip, rub it on the wall and then touch your finger to your tongue. If it has a salty taste, it is efflorescence. Another way is to wet the surface with water; efflorescence will disappear and reappear when the surface dries. 6
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Once the problem has been identified and corrected, the efflorescence can be removed using either a hydrochloric acid or acetic acidbased product such as one of the Diedrich new masonry cleaners or Diedrich Green Clean 250 and the following procedure: 1. Pre-wet the wall using either a garden hose or pressure washer. If using a pressure washer, use a 40-degree tip and stay well back from the face of the wall. You don’t want to push a lot of moisture deep into the wall. 2. Apply your diluted product with a pumpup garden sprayer or brush. 3. Allow the solution to sit on the surface for three to five minutes. 4. Lightly rinse the surface. DO NOT pressure wash, as this will force excess moisture into the wall and cause more efflorescence to come to the surface. I don’t know how many calls I have received where the person said, “I pressure washed the efflorescence off and it came right back.” Calcium Carbonate Another moisture-induced problem is calcium carbonate, or “Lime Run” as it is sometimes referred to because it appears to form streaks or runs down a wall. People often will misidentify calcium carbonate as efflorescence. Calcium carbonate will appear as a thick, crusty-looking deposit rather than the salt-crystal appearance of efflorescence. Usually this is found on concrete block (CMU) walls but can form on brick as well. There is no easy way to remove this. Most often, removal involves a mechanical grinding removal or an abrasive method such as soda blasting. Calcium carbonate can be extremely difficult to remove because it can build from the inside of the substrate to the outside. So unlike efflorescence, it is not just on the outer face. Other Common Stains There are many different stains that can
July 2012
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develop on masonry surfaces. Each will need to be identified and treated individually. Many stains are caused by either moisture infiltration or metallic reactions. If the cause is moisture, as with efflorescence, the source must be identified and dealt with before remedial action is taken. Some of the most prevalent staining situations are as follows: Vanadium stains usually will occur on buff or light-colored brick. The vanadium stain can appear as green or green/brown. Vanadium stains can develop from excessive moisture in the masonry wall. The usual cause is the use of an inappropriate cleaner, most often muriatic acid. Most brick cleaner manufacturers have cleaners specifically for cleaning vanadium-containing brick. Should vanadium stains occur, there are specific products developed over the years to kill this type of stain. They are a blend of several types of acids. The Diedrich 950 Stain Remover is one such product. Manganese dioxide is a color-enhancing additive used in darker bricks and is in a powdered form. Because of this, it can be a significant cause of stains unless care is taken. As with vanadium stains, manganese stains can be activated by excessive moisture (usually not covering wall tops during construction to keep out rain and snow) or using an inappropriate cleaner or muriatic acid. The manganese dioxide is dissolved and moves to the surface, plus it can leach into the mortar joints. If it migrates into the joints, it may be difficult – if not impossible – to remove. The sooner manganese stains are addressed, the eClean Magazine
easier it will be to remove and kill. Like vanadium, it requires a special blend of acids to remove. The Diedrich 940 Iron and Manganese Stain Remover has been highly effective in removing this type stain. Iron stains are most often deposited on the surface of a wall from exposed steel lintels, sign anchors, fire escapes, etc. Some older white-face brick can also be susceptible if it contains iron fillers (clinkers). With the white brick, excessive moisture from cracked joints and brick – as well as the old standbys of bad or missing flashing, caulking, gutters, and downspouts – can be the activating culprit. In these cases, the problem must be remedied before stain removal is attempted. A word of caution is needed here. Make sure to allow the wall to dry thoroughly before removal is attempted or the stain will reoccur. If the stains are coming from rusting metal, the metal should be primed and painted before the stains are attacked. As with other stains, a blend of acids including phosphoric acid is needed to remove iron stains. Here again, the Diedrich 940 Iron and Manganese Stain Remover will be effective. White scum is another stain that can be encountered occasionally. It will have a similar appearance as efflorescence. An easy way to tell the difference between the two is to wet the wall with water. Efflorescence will disappear but the white scum will not. White scum is typically caused by residue left from incomplete washing. Muriatic acid can be a major contributor due to its uncontrollable aggressive nature. The muriatic dissolves the cement in mortar and will leave the residue on the wall face. The main cause for this is lack of attention in pre-wetting or final wash down of the wall surface. The thorough pre-wetting and rinsing are essential in the prevention of white scum.
July 2012
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Fortunately, this condition can be taken care of but will involve more complicated acids. The Diedrich 930 White Scum Remover should be able to remove it. Acid burn can be caused either by using an acid solution that is too strong or uncontrolled, as happens with muriatic acid, leaving the solution on the wall too long, or not prewetting the wall sufficiently. In some cases, it is possible to remove; in others, not. Where muriatic acid has been used, the residual metals in the acid from the pickling process can react with other elements in the brick. Each situation must be handled on a caseby-case basis. A specially formulated acidic product will be required. The Diedrich 950 Stain Remover has been effective in many cases. Test samples must be conducted to verify if the 950 will or will not be effective. In some cases, once a stain such as the vanadium or manganese has been activated, it may be reactivated even though it has been removed. The same can apply to efflorescence. Sometimes hard wind-driven rains have caused reoccurrences. Should this be the
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case, the wall or building involved may require the application of a clear, breathable water repellent. A contractor may want to offer this to a building owner as an option when called to do stain removal. If the contractor was responsible for the stain activation, he might want to use the water repellent to eliminate the possibility of being called back or ending up in litigation. Here again Diedrich offers a line of water repellents and can recommend a product compatible with the type of surface involved and the end result required. Most staining situations can be avoided by utilizing proper cleaning procedures, using the proper cleaning product, and conducting a test sample. In most cases, a thorough prewetting of the wall surface is the first necessary step. Apply the properly diluted product, as determined in the test sample, by brush or low pressure sprayer like a plastic pump-up sprayer. The spray application, in most cases, is the preferred method because a thorough, uniform application can be achieved. This will result in an even wall appearance. The final wash-down can be done with either a garden hose or a pressure washer. If a pressure washer is used, a fan-type tip of 20 degree or larger should be used. In either case, rinsing should be done until all sudsing has ceased, indicating the cleaning solution has been removed. Whenever you encounter a situation where you feel uneasy or in doubt, call the brick manufacturer or chemical manufacturer. We are here to help. In most cases, a few minutes spent on the phone can end up saving you a lot of time and money in the long run. Larry Kotke has been with Diedrich Technologies for over 28 years. As Technical Sales Director, Kotke handles technical support for Diedrich products and has also been involved in product development and testing over the years. Part of Kotke’s duties involve training Diedrich’s sales staff, as well as distributors and contractors, and he has given cleaning seminars to architects and others. To learn more about Diedrich Techonologies, go to www.DiedrichTechnologies.com.
July 2012
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MASONRY CLEANING & RESTORATION DIEDRICH engineers a full line of high-performance detergent products that fulfill today’s demand for a safe, cost-effective alternative to surface-damaging standbys such as sandblasting and muriatic acids.
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202 - NEW MASONRY CLEANER
CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION www.diedrichtechnologies.com | 800.283.3888 eClean Magazine
July 2012
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9
Bird Control Is A Natural Add On For Cleaning Contractors
by Meredith Walako, Bird-B-Gone, www.BirdBGone.com
regularly access areas that few see. This gives One of the best ways to increase revenue is them an advantage over other bird control to add to the number of services you offer to contractors, as they can be the first to propose customers. An often overlooked but natural fit a solution for their client. for exterior building contract cleaners is bird With some training and product knowledge, control. Bird proofing protects structures from you too could add bird control to your list of the damages caused by pest birds and is a vital services. After all, contract cleaners usually part of overall facility maintenance. have the equipment and experience for Helping clients solve their bird problem can accessing those hard-to-reach spaces where save them time and money in the long run, and birds like to land and roost. is an easy proposal to make when equipped The good news is that adding bird control with the facts about damage caused by birds. to your business is easy. Today, there are Birds commonly choose windowsills, parapet a number of highly-effective bird control walls and rooftop areas to land or nest in. products on the market that, with a little Beyond negatively impacting the aesthetics training, are of the building (whether it’s on the building easy to install exterior, windows, signage or other places), and maintain. bird droppings can also stain and corrode The most surfaces. Over time, the highly acidic droppings common bird can eat through common building materials deterrents used such as brick, stone and metal, and potentially on windowsills cause structural damage. Bird droppings and and ledges are nests can clog drains, create fire hazards, and bird spikes, damage rooftop equipment. Bird droppings and electric track nesting materials also may carry diseases and bird deterrents, parasites. bird slopes On some occasions, cleaning companies and bird repellent gels. These products are have actually refused to service a building that humane and effective ways to prevent birds is covered in bird debris, as exposure poses a from landing in unwanted areas. health risk to workers and can be difficult to 1. Bird spikes simply create an uneven work around or in. surface that large birds such as pigeons, gulls Cleaning contractors are sometimes the first and crows can’t land on. They generally come to notice a bird problem on a facility as they 10 eClean Magazine July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com
in two-foot sections in various widths, colors and materials – such as plastic or stainless steel. Bird spikes can be glued or nailed into place. 2. Electric track bird deterrents, such as Bird Jolt Flat Track, are ideal for areas where aesthetics are a concern. These systems emit a slight shock to birds when they land on its surface that won’t harm them, but will condition them to avoid the area. Electric track systems are low profile and can be powered with electric or solar chargers. 3. Bird slopes eliminate a bird’s ability to land. The slope’s angled surface turns flat window sills into a slippery 45° angled surface and is effective for preventing both small and large birds from landing. 4. Bird gel is a thick, sticky repellent that can be applied on flat horizontal surfaces to prevent birds from landing. Most bird gel repellents are clear in color and will last up to six months outdoors. Getting started in bird control begins with training and familiarization with products and common bird problems. Your existing clients are an excellent place to start looking for business. Tips for gaining bird control business: 1. Get Trained • Find a bird control company – such as Bird-B-Gone Inc. – that offers free training for your technicians. Bird control courses will teach the basics of bird control on everything from quoting a job to site preparation and proper installation of products. • Look for free online resources such as training manuals and installation guides. 2. Make the Case • Let your customers know why bird control is an important feature of building maintenance. • Inform clients on existing bird problems and train your technicians to note and report bird problems. • Contact Bird-B-Gone for free sell sheets that you can leave with your customer that explain the negative impacts birds can have on a building. 3. Spread the Word • Let your customers know you now can eClean Magazine
handle their bird problem by adding a section to your website, creating a sell sheet or leave behind and verbally engaging customers when you notice a bird problem at their facility. • An extra selling point is that your technicians are already servicing the building and have the access equipment needed to reach the areas affected by pest birds. • If your technicians work with magnetic decals on service vehicles, make sure to mention bird control. • Blog about it and talk about it on your social media platforms such as Facebook and Twitter. If you are interested in offering bird control to your clients, or have questions about any of the products or information listed above, please contact Bird-B-Gone, Inc. at 1-800-3926915. Bird-B-Gone can provide free training and materials to help get you started. Meredith Walako has worked with Bird-BGone since 2001 in marketing and advertising and has seen the interest in bird control services grow over the past 11 years.
July 2012
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Sealers 101
by David Phillips, Southern Stain and Seal, www.SouthernStainandSeal.com
“Yeah, I need some sealer…” That’s how most of the calls to our office begin. If you think about it, the word “sealer” is really a lot like the word “car.” Imagine walking onto a used car lot and announcing, “Yeah, I want to buy a car.” Sure, that’s a great place to start, but before the dealer can hand you the keys, you’ve got some decisions to make. Are you looking for an SUV, sedan, or maybe a sports car? Are you on a budget, or is money not an issue? What about color? All of these decisions will play a part in determining which “car” you ultimately take home. Choosing the right sealer for your project is really no different. Types, Not Brands There are thousands of different products on the market, and every manufacturer is trying to convince you that their product is the best. So, where do you start? Successful product selection begins with understanding the fundamental differences between the different types of sealers. Yes, I said types, not brands. Don’t get me wrong – brand names are important. They help us to quickly recognize reputable companies whose products, service, and support we know we can trust. On the other hand, brands, marketing and propaganda can also be misleading when it comes to choosing which “car” is right for you. Remember, every job is different and no one product line is perfect for every situation. There are a lot of great coatings companies who make many unique and different products, but there are also an equal or greater number who actually make nothing at all. They simply private label the same old products over and over, each time with a shiny new label and a new claim to fame. This practice is one of the main reasons why our company is in business today. I just never believed it was fair to the 12
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customer to pay twice as much for a product they have been led to believe is better, when the only thing different is the label. When it comes to sealing and protecting surfaces like concrete, pavers, brick and stone, you have to remember that every job is unique and every customer has different needs and desires. Likewise, as a professional contractor it is your responsibility to let your customer know when their desires may not be in their best interest. Example: An elderly couple with 15 grandchildren asks you to seal their hill-side aggregate driveway with a super high gloss shiny sealer because they love the way it looks when they walk to the mailbox in the rain. This would probably be a good time to at least suggest a non-slippery penetrating sealer, just before presenting them with a liability waiver. Having a good working knowledge of the different types of sealers available will not only help you make better choices, but also help you to educate your customers about these differences as well. Knowledge and experience are what sets a true professional apart from the crowd. Your customer will immediately feel more at ease with your company and view your proposal as a premium service if you take the time to educate them on their options. As we begin our look at the different types of sealers, it is important for me to point out that this is a very basic overview of sealing products. With the vast number of increasingly advanced products on the market, it would be literally impossible to cover every formulation without something being left out or something overlapping. All sealers will ultimately fall into one of two distinct categories: penetrating sealers or film-forming sealers. Film-forming sealers
July 2012
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actually physically coat the surface while penetrating sealers work 100 percent below the surface to seal the substrate internally. Both offer protection but they each do it very differently. Film-forming sealers usually add gloss and enhancement, but are often slippery when wet. Penetrating sealers leave a very natural appearance and usually do not change the traction of the surface. As a general rule, penetrating sealers offer better protection outdoors and are less problematic since they cannot flake, peel or chip. For indoor applications or for colored decorative concrete, film-forming sealers are usually the sealer of choice. They enhance the colors, add sheen and the physical coating acts as a sacrificial layer to protect the colored surface from wear and abrasion. Almost all types of penetrating and filmforming sealers are available in both solvent and water-based formulas. Both have different strengths and weaknesses when it comes to compatibility, application and performance. Your choice between the two will be based
eClean Magazine
on several factors: What are the V.O.C. regulations in your area? Is there adequate ventilation? Are there compatibility issues with an existing coating? Which will last longer and be more durable? What about maintenance? These are all questions you should discuss with your distributor or supplier. It is your job to apply the product. It is their job to make sure you are successful! Let’s now take a closer look at the characteristics of the four basic types of sealers on the market. Penetrating Sealers Description: Penetrating sealers do not form a film or coating over the surface. They work 100% below the surface, creating a chemically bonded barrier against the water, moisture, salts, and other de-icing chemicals. Common types of penetrating sealers include silanes, siloxanes, silicones, silicates, and fluoropolymers. Although most penetrating sealers are water-based, some are also available in solvent-based formulas. Application: Penetrating sealers offer the
July 2012
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Penetrating Sealer on Brick & Stone
Pure Acrylic on Exposed Aggregate
easiest application of any type of sealer. Most acrylics. They are pure resins that have been products can be applied with a sprayer, roller blended with epoxies or urethanes to improve or brush. You simply saturate the surface performance. These are usually used on with the recommended amount of product, interior projects since they have very little and that’s it. Except for a few solvent based breathability and can often trap moisture products that can be applied over existing cure on exterior projects. Although they are often & seals, most penetrating sealers require clean, marketed for different applications, acrylics as bare, unsealed surfaces. a whole are usually a very poor choice for any Performance: Penetrating sealers provide surface other than concrete. All three types excellent protection for all types of outdoor of acrylics are available in both water and concrete, pavers, brick, natural stone and solvent-based formulas. manufactured stone. Most penetrating sealers Application: Acrylic concrete sealers offer are also breathable, allowing moisture vapor relatively easy application with either a pumpto escape and not become trapped below the up sprayer or roller. With acrylics, more is not sealer. Since they do not leave a film or coating better. They should be applied in thin coats, on the surface, penetrating sealers usually do with a total thickness of no more than 2mils. not change the appearance or traction of the Performance: Acrylic concrete sealers offer surface. They are a great choice anytime you good protection against water and salts. They need excellent protection from the elements, are economical, easy to apply, and work well while retaining a completely natural finish. on decorative concrete, exposed aggregate and Acrylics interior floors. Solvent-based acrylics generally Description: Acrylics are the most common perform better outdoors than do water-based type of film-forming concrete sealer. They offer acrylics. Solvent-based acrylics also offer much easy application, easy maintenance and lower better color enhancement than water-based cost than epoxies or urethanes. Acrylic sealers acrylics. On the other hand, solvent-based are produced in three common types: styrene acrylics can darken un-colored broom finished acrylic, pure acrylic and modified acrylic. concrete, making it look splotchy. Styrene acrylics, also commonly called cure Polyurethanes & seals, are primarily designed for use over Description: Polyurethane sealers are “green” or freshly poured concrete. Styrene extremely high-performance film-forming acrylic is a low-performance resin that will products. Polyurethanes are much more often yellow or degrade in direct sunlight. Pure expensive than acrylics, but offer much better acrylics are made from high quality resins, chemical and abrasion resistance. They dry contain no styrene, and will not yellow in UV crystal clear and are available in a variety of light. Unlike styrene acrylics, they can only sheen levels. Polyurethanes are non-yellowing be applied to concrete that has fully cured. and can be used on both interior and exterior Modified acrylics are the high performance projects. Although primarily designed for 14 eClean Magazine July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com
Urethane Photo courtesy of Kevin Ormsby, AeroFlor
Atomic Top Coat Epoxy Photo courtesy of Kevin Ormsby, AeroFlor
concrete, some specific products can also be upcoming issues we will be looking at each used successfully on pavers, brick and stone. type of sealer more in-depth as we discuss Application: Polyurethane sealers are not as specific applications such as concrete floors, easy to apply as acrylics or penetrating sealers. driveways, brick sealing, paver sealing, stone Most are two component products that must be sealing and more! Remember, choosing the carefully mixed before application. After mixing, right product for each job is always the first the product immediately begins to cure, and will step to having a successful project. completely harden within thirty to sixty minutes. David Phillips founded Southern Stain Although some products are thin enough to be and Seal in 2007 as a service company applied with a pump-up sprayer or roller, most specializing in wood restoration and concrete polyurethanes are best applied with a high sealing. As a manufacturing engineer, Phiillips pressure airless sprayer. immediately began researching and testing Performance: Polyurethane sealers are every product and process on the market. UV stable and extremely durable. They offer After a very successful four years, Phillips excellent protection from chemicals and decided to follow his passion to help others do abrasion in high traffic areas. Since most what he had done. On July 2, 2011, he shut polyurethanes are not breathable, care should down the service company and began sharing be taken not to trap moisture under the sealer. what he had learned. Phillips’ focus is now on On most surfaces, water-based products tend bringing both contractors and homeowners the to be more forgiving if moisture is present below products, training and guidance they need to be the surface. successful. To learn more, visit their website at Epoxies www.SouthernStainandSeal.com, or sign up for Description: Epoxies are also high-build, their contractor rewards program at high performance film-forming sealers. Unlike www.SprayNPay.com. polyurethanes, most epoxies are not UV stable and are primarily used indoors on commercial or industrial projects. Epoxies come in many different colors and most produce a durable high-gloss finish. Both solvent and water-based formulas are available. Application: Almost all epoxies are twocomponent products that must be carefully mixed before application. Once mixed, the epoxy will immediately begin to cure, and will completely harden within thirty to sixty minutes. Contact Maurice for Our Low Epoxy coatings are most often applied with Advertising Rates an airless sprayer or notched squeegee, then immediately back-rolled with a lint-free roller. maurice@ecleanmag.com Performance: Epoxy coatings are extremely hard, durable and long wearing. If properly eClean Magazine July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com 15
Your Ad Here
Why I Use What I Use
Photos courtesy of Mike Barrett, Barrett’s Pressure Cleaning, St. Augustine, Fla.
F9 BARC: Rust, Fertilizer and Orange Battery
Before
by Craig Harrison, Eco-Friendly Power Washing and Front 9 Restoration, www.Front9Restoration.com
After
As the owner of Eco-Friendly Power Washing located in Palm Desert, California – one of the largest golf course environments in the United States – I founded a concrete restoration business that serviced hotels, golf courses, parks, municipalities and commercial and industrial buildings. Over the years, our company received thousands of calls from golf course management, homeowners and homeowner associations asking us to remove the dreaded “orange golf cart battery stains” and fertilizer stains from their properties and golf cart barn areas. We tried just about every product on the market, but could not find one that produced the results we needed. The problem with most rust removers currently on the market is that they contain acids that “eat” the concrete. They strip the concrete of its cement paste and create a micro-aggregate or “etched” surface surrounding the orange acid burn. When these cleaners react with the cement, they only take a minimal amount of the stain with it and cause deep, permanent damage to the concrete. Almost all concrete rust removers will discolor the concrete, turning it white or sometimes even turning it more orange, amplifying the stain and sustaining permanent damage to your customer’s concrete. 16
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In turn, we began speaking with concrete scientists and concrete experts. Combining a few of their pointers with our own experiences, we began formulating our own cleaners. Job after job and year after year, our formulations and results for our rust stain and battery acid stain remover – which we’ve named F9 BARC – got better and better. F9 BARC has special proprietary properties that allow it to soak into the concrete ¼ to ½-inch deep, lock into the pores and chemically reverse the orange battery acid stains. It does so in a way that will not harm or etch concrete and will even give the concrete some protection from future staining. F9 BARC is infused with rust removers, allowing our proprietary blend to dive deep within the concrete to remove the deep rust staining. It is almost a magical thing to see orange stains on a customer driveway literally disappear when the concrete dries! One thing we always explain to our customers is this: Orange golf cart stains and some thin rust can travel into the concrete up to two inches deep, which is further than F9 BARC can reach. When concrete is wet, you can see deeper into the cement and may be able to see spots of the deeper staining. As soon as the concrete dries, the cement will turn back to its normal color. This is because July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com
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stains and see if they have a block captain. The block captain (or delegate) can email their residents and you can clean a driveway or perform a demo for an entire group. Other possible areas where rust and battery acid removal can get you business include golf courses, country clubs, cities, maintenance departments, landscape companies, pool companies, concrete coating companies, airports, schools, hotels, motels, resorts, property management, boulder and stone companies, AAA, retirement villages, battery stores and more. In my experience as a contract cleaner, F9 BARC is the perfect fit for contractors in the pressure washing business. Cleaning stains that were formerly thought of as being impossible to remove can be a lucrative move on the contractor’s behalf. We and other cleaning companies have used F9 BARC to get businesses into monthly commercial cleaning contracts with well-known resorts because of its impressive results. To learn more, visit our website at www.Front9Restoration.com, our Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/ Front9Restoration, or our how-to video at www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg-yy3aZabs.
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that when concrete is dry, you visually cannot see into it more than about ¼ to ½ of an inch. Usually we will ask the customer to come out and watch us use a blower on the wet spots so they can see that immediately upon drying, the orange staining disappears. Battery stains are very different in nature but look almost identical to rust and fertilizer staining. Because of the similarities and misconceptions about these stains, F9 BARC was formulated to remove fertilizer, rust stains and the ever-difficult orange-colored golf cart battery acid burn. The product is also safe to use on concrete, concrete coatings, sealed concrete, colored concrete, pavers, brick, stone and masonry, stucco and pool decks. acid burn. F9 BARC does not contain hydrochloric acid or any acids that will eat or damage your customer’s cement, grass or plants. One gallon of F9 BARC restores 400 to 800 feet of orange staining on concrete or up to 1,600-feet when cleaning on a sealed surface. Creating New Markets Being able to remove battery acid, fertilizer and rust stains opens the doors to new cleaning markets for contractors. We recommend that you go to your local golf cart dealer, golf courses, homeowner associations and let them know that you are the go-to business for these problems. In fact, we even provide contractors who purchase at least one case (four gallons) of F9 BARC with our marketing brochures, tri-folds, door hangers and business cards (via email), and a listing on our website. You may use our photos, put your business cards on the sample pieces and use them any way you wish to gain business. (We also have brochures you can purchase and staple your business card onto.) We have had good success with the golf cart dealers referring work our way. Many retirement communities give infraction tickets to their homeowners for having golf cart stains on their driveways. It might be a good idea to call your local communities and ask them if they give homeowners infractions for dirty driveways. Many of these communities also have newsletters or monthly magazines that your business can advertise in. One example of marketing we like to do is to find a house with
July 2012
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UAMCC Board Hires Nichole Anglin On July 10, the United Association of Mobile Cleaning Contractors (UAMCC) brought on Nichole Anglin to serve as the association’s office administrator. Nichole, who has been in the industry for over six years, is well-versed in the mobile cleaning industry and well known by many industry members. Nichole has many talents that she brings to the table. She has experience in customer service. She assisted with and organized many of the events and education seminars. And she cares for the people in the industry. “I’m really looking forward to working with the industry again and with the UAMCC,” Nichole said. “I made a lot of friends throughout the industry and am excited to be a part of something that will help them with their
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businesses.” Specifically, Nichole has been brought in by the UAMCC Board of Directors to help with the many administrative duties. Her role will include keeping member records, keeping them informed of association happenings, distributing membership packets, and helping with other clerical responsibilities. “Nichole is going to be a great asset to the association,” said UAMCC President Ron Musgraves. “We are very happy to have her on board.” All of the members of the UAMCC Board of Directors are looking forward to getting the ball rolling with the tasks that Nichole has been assigned. “She came very highly recommended from her previous employer so we feel confident in their decision to bring her on board,” Musgraves added. “I’m excited about this new opportunity, and I’m just very happy to be back,” she concluded. To learn more about the UAMCC, visit their website at www.UAMCC.org.
July 2012
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House Washing: All-in-One or a TwoPass Clean?
by Linda Chambers, Brand and Sales Manager for Soap Warehouse, www.SoapWarehouse.biz (This is the second part of the discussion I started last month.) Historically, house washes were single step chemical washes made just to try and clean the surface. But now, customers often want more from a house wash. Yes they want clean, but they want mold killing, UV protection, and a shiny appearance on their vinyl-siding homes. As I stated in our last installment, most cleaners are alkaline since we live in an acid world, but it goes even further than that. Here’s a little more of a chemistry lesson: High pressure soap formulations are primarily an anionic (negative) soap. Most of the soils on houses are also anionic in nature, so the soap can clean off the dirt (Chemistry 101 teaches that “like dissolves like”). Un-likes, such as oil and water, are those that repel each other or can never mix. Once rinsed, the cleaned surface of the exterior will remain slightly anionic. High pressure wax formulations are mostly cationic (positive) formulations that are attracted to the anionic cleaned surface – just like soil and dirt that are cationic and are also attracted to the just cleaned surface. So should your soap also contain waxes to help prevent this attraction? Dirty Little Secrets All-in-one formulations must contain both soaps and modified waxes to clean and protect the exterior of houses at the same time. The difficulty comes in two areas: 1. The combination of both anionic and cationic ingredients in an all-in-one solution tend to bind with each other, reducing both effectiveness of the soap and the wax. 2. The wax needs to be attracted by the clean surface, but is hampered by the soap, which is in higher concentrations (typically) than the wax. An all-in-one formulation is a compromise, usually shifted to cleaning, not protecting. Some eCleanMagazine Magazine eClean
products enhance the wax and reduce the soap ingredients in an attempt to add better protection. This all adds up to a compromise of properties in all-in-one formulations. Example: Wax in Car Washes At the end of a carwash tunnel, three streams of different colored foamy substance are squirted on your car just prior to the last rinse. Magically, the last rinse runs off the car – and quickly! You have experienced the automatic carwash “cheater wax,” which is not a wax at all. Worse, whether you pay for the wax or not, you will receive a stream of “cheater wax” (most likely in the final rinse) because it makes the final rinse water run off the car surface quickly, enabling the blowers to more effectively dry the car. You may get more of this product when you pay for it. The product is an emulsion of a solvent and a quaternary ammonium compound (a cousin of hair cream rinse’s active ingredient). It’s attracted to your cleaned car’s painted surface (anionic) and puts a small amount of modified fat on the surface. Don’t worry, it won’t harm your paint and it lasts at least until the next time the car gets wet. Two Steps: Soap to Clean, Wax to Protect Sometimes the compromise between soap and wax can be managed to yield an acceptable result, cleaning the exterior and protecting the surface. Generally, the results are better with TWO separate steps, using different formulations, requiring two passes around the exterior of the house being cleaned. The wash has no competition in the formulation, and has more than enough soap to clean. The wax spray will be attracted to the exterior surface that was just cleaned and will cover more completely. Properly formulated water-based waxes provide better protection of the exteriors and can even repel anionic dust and grime over time, plus be easier to clean the next time. So shouldn’t you also try and get the better results doing each step one at a time? That is for you, your business’ profitability and your customers to decide. Linda Chambers is the Brand and Sales Manager for Soap Warehouse, where she has worked since 2007. Visit their website to learn more at www.SoapWarehouse.biz.
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The Awning Cleaning Market An Interview with Wayne Shockey, Awning Cleaning Services by Allison Hester, Editor
Photo courtesy of PowerWash.com Out of the thousands of power washing and window cleaning companies in existence, only a small percentage are in awning cleaning. Yet it’s a low-cost, high-profit margin cleaning market that, comparatively, can be easy to sell. For this article, I interviewed Wayne Shockey of Awning Cleaning Services in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Shockey has specialized in awning cleaning for over 20 years, and has taught the awning cleaning school for Power Wash University for the past 18 years. Introduction to the Market Awning manufacturers require that their awnings be properly and regularly cleaned or else their warranties are void. In fact, that’s how Shockey entered into the industry. An awning manufacturer contacted him when its customers needed their awnings cleaned and the manufacturer didn’t know who could provide that service. 20
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Shockey had been a power-washing contractor until that point, dabbling in a variety of different cleaning markets. After the awning manufacturer contacted him, however, he “saw there was a real need for awning cleaning, but no one was offering those services.” So he began contacting fabric manufacturers to learn what they recommended. From there he entered into a niche market that has kept him busy for the past two decades. “When people had awnings that were getting dirty or mildewed, they would call their awning company and say something was wrong with the fabric,” he explained. “The manufacturer would explain that it just needed cleaning, and they would give us the referral.” According to Shockey, awnings generally need to be cleaned anywhere from monthly
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Right: Wayne Shockey of Awning Cleaning Services to semi-annually, depending on the type of awning (vinyl versus canvas) and the location. Awnings located close to interstates or airports tend to get dirtier faster due to exhaust in the air. Awnings in areas with lots of birds get dirtier faster as well. “There’s nothing worse than a beautiful, expensive black awning covered in white bird droppings,” he added. Shockey said he also found a lot of success with national chains that have awnings – such as the old Blockbuster stores. Some of the stores would fail their inspections by the corporate office because they did not keep their awnings clean. “We always try to set businesses up on a maintenance schedule so that their awnings never get to looking dirty,” he added. “And that’s where the real money comes in.” Finally, he also gets calls from residential owners who, for example, are planning to host a wedding or party in their backyard, but are embarrassed by the condition of their awnings. Here’s a quick tip. Shockey has learned that one trick for selling jobs is to do a small demo on a portion of the awning. This serves two purposes. First, it tells him what the condition
of the awning is and how clean it can actually get. “Like anything, a five-old-old awning is going to look better cleaned, but it won’t necessarily look like new.” Secondly, the demo is a good way to make the sale. “Now they’ve got a funny-looking clean spot in the middle of their dirty awning,” he explains. “They most likely don’t want to keep it that way.” The Investment Awning cleaning can be a very inexpensive field to get into. The most basic tools needed are a garden hose, a soft-bristled brush, an
gaiN the suPPort of the origiNal Power washiNg trade orgaNizatioN
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represented contractors in the Power Washing industry. We stand for all power washers: fleet washing, concrete cleaning, kitchen exhaust, wood restoration, as well as everything in between. The PWNA provides quality education and certification to power wash contractors along with conventions, networking opportunities, and a clear voice for our industry. Visit www.thepwna.org for more info on becoming a member.
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Photo of before (right side of photo) and after (left side) provided by Awning Cleaning Services
extension pole and some awning cleaner. That can cost just a few hundred dollars. Just as importantly, the out-of-pocket expense for doing a job is minimal, so about 95 percent of the job price is profit. About half of Shockey’s clients don’t have their own water on the premises, so that gets to be more expensive. In those cases, contractors need to have a water tank plus a means for getting the water from the tank to the awning,
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such as an inexpensive pressure washer – which should be modified to lower the pressure – or some sort of pump sprayer. Additionally, many jobs require the need for a ladder. However, as technology has changed, so has the need for ladder time. Shockey says he used to spend about 50 percent of his cleaning time on a ladder. Nowadays it’s down to about 10 percent. Part of this is because he’s learned how to make some inexpensive tools – which he teaches about in his awning cleaning class – to make the process more efficient, and therefore, more profitable. For example, one client he has had since the early days is a shopping center with five large awnings. What used to take him eight hours to complete, he can now do in two. The Cost So, on the one hand, getting into awning cleaning is very inexpensive. On the other hand, though, doing a job incorrectly can be very costly. Awnings generally have a lifespan of five to 10 years. Some awnings are too old or rotted to clean, and will fall apart if cleaning is attempted, meaning that you, the contractor, will owe the customer a new awning. “The real key is inspecting the awning to make sure it can withstand the cleaning process,” Shockey added. So, in addition to teaching the proper awning cleaning methods, Shockey’s class focuses on inspecting awnings to make sure they are safe to clean. “The weakest part of the awning is the seam. That often wears first, and if you’re unaware of that and put any kind of pressure on it, then all of a sudden the awning is flapping in the wind,” he explained. In fact, that’s how Shockey first learned to do awning repair. “I actually did that and realized I had better fix this guy’s awning or I would be in real trouble,” he said. So he developed a method there on the spot that fixed the seam. In fact, a year later, the rest of that particular awning’s seams failed, but Shockey’s repaired seam held strong. However, some seams cannot be repaired, and it’s important to know how to identify
July 2012
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Awning repair photos provided by Awning Cleaning Services
those as well. Awnings that are too dilapidated can actually be a safety hazard. For instance, Shockey said a few years ago an old awning – frame and all – blew off in the wind and actually killed a pedestrian. Beyond age, using the wrong chemistry can also ruin an awning, and different stains must be approached differently. Shockey teaches the ins and outs of products in his course. Those not taking the class should at least contact the awning cleaning product manufacturer or distributor to learn more. Also, doing a small test patch in an inconspicuous spot on the awning is smart to make sure the product does what you want it to. Finally, pressure can ruin an awning, and the use of pressure washers is not recommended, unless the pressure washer is modified. The chemicals do the cleaning work, and the water simply does the rinsing. According to Shockey, no more than 200 psi should be applied. Additional Cleaning Opportunities As with many cleaning markets, additional add-on cleaning services naturally come with awning cleaning. First, canvas awnings lose their water resistance after about five years in the sun and will leak when it rains. Adding a water repellent is an add-on that can be suggested. Vinyl awnings need a UV protectant. These are also natural selling points when talking with potential customers. “We tell our customers that their awnings will not only look better, but they will last longer if they are properly maintained,” Shockey explained. A lot of awnings are located over windows, eClean Magazine
and after the awning is cleaned the windows are dirtied. Shockey actually teaches windowcleaning basics for this purpose. Awnings located under metal signs may suffer from rust stains, as do the buildings and concrete below. So rust stain removal is another add-on that falls naturally into an awning cleaning contractor’s realm of potential work. A Final Word While the awning cleaning market is growing, it is still a rather untapped market in most areas, and a natural add-on for cleaning contractors. It’s important to go into the market fairly well prepared, not only in cleaning techniques, but in problem detection. If you think there may be a problem cleaning the awning, it’s better to turn down the job than to damage the awning. Unique situations always arise, and that’s where a support system – such as through Shockey’s class – really comes in handy. “One of the services we offer our students is that they can call with a situation and I’m happy to help,” Shockey concludes. “You have PowerWash.com and myself in your corner.” Power Wash University’s awning cleaning class will be offered on September 23 – 24 and November 11 – 12, as well as several times in 2013. To learn more, go to http:// www.powerwash.com/training/powerwashuniversity. To learn more about Wayne Shockey’s awning cleaning business, visit his company website at www.awningcleaningservices.com.
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Concrete Cleaning Inside Out (Pt. 2) by Rick Meehan, Marko Janitorial Supplies, www.MarkoInc.com Not all indoor concrete slabs are considered covering. decorative, but the principle behind scrubbing Identify the type them clean is the same. It is time consuming, of concrete: bare hard work. It requires a level of expertise with uncoated, cureequipment. It requires knowledge of cleaning sealed, polyurethane chemicals and reactions with concrete. In sealed, acrylic floor finish sealed, slathered short, it requires DACQAC (pronounced “Dackin adhesives (carpet glue, vinyl glue, and Quack”), with explanations to follow. ceramic tile mastic), natural paste waxed, Remember the guiding rule from my last painted (latex, oil-base, and epoxy), article, “Concrete Cleaning Inside-Out (Part decorative stained (acid stained, dye One)”: a cleaning company must become a stained), stamped, non-decorative old or lean, mean, efficient cleanup machine. I will new concrete. It is important to make a assume that your company is well on its way at correct determination by asking questions this point to reaching this auspicious position. of the homeowner, the installer, or your Therefore, we’ll jump right into the murky favorite supply house, about the exact type waters of indoor slab cleaning. of surface you are dealing with, even if you Whoa up thar pardner…thar ain’t no such think you already know. thing as “jumpin’ in!” The moment you do is Each slab cleaning and/or recoating when you assume a loss – perhaps financially – job is different and may require an array but at the very least of an opportunity to make of chemicals, equipment, and cleanup some real dough. There is a list of variables processes to complete the tasks. (Follow the – or, maybe I should say factors – that will general procedure outlined in Part One.) determine the advisability of going forward with Work with chemical suppliers to obtain an indoor slab job. Here they are: the right products for the job; seek proper • Differentiation training in chemical use. Differentiate (D) • Assessment between the surface types and treat them • Contemplation accordingly to prevent mistakes. • Quotation The chart on the next two pages shows • Acceptance the general breakdown. • Completion Next, assessing (A) the extent of the job By following the rules of DACQAC, you will narrow down the amount of material will turn a profit in the realm of indoor slab costs and labor involved. It may even cleaning. become evident that your company is not The first task is to differentiate (D) between equipped to handle it. There is no shame the types of indoor concrete surfaces. We’ve in walking away in deference to a more already taken a good look at decorative experienced, better equipped concrete stained slabs, so what’s left? Many homes are cleaning crew. It comes down to dollars built with slab subflooring. Bare concrete is and cents (or sense), as a mistake can cost sometimes found in basements. Carpet, wood, megabucks to fix. tile, laminate, vinyl, and other floorings can be The biggest part of assessing the job hiding a slab until it comes time to change the is figuring the amount of labor required. 24 eClean Magazine July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com
Concrete Slab Differetiation (D) SLAB SURFACE
Bare Uncoated OLD
Bare Uncoated NEW
Cure-Sealed
Polyurethane Sealed
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CHEMICALS USED
Most types of non-acid detergents may be used without harming the concrete, from neutral cleaners to degreasers. NO ACIDS (pH of less the 7.0) should be used unless prepping for paint, dye, stain, or glues. Acids change the surface – especially the color. If all other methods fail to remove a stain like rust or red mud, citrus-based cleaners or muriatic acid may be applied. The customer must be informed that this may change the appearance of the concrete in that area. Sometimes it is best to live with a spot than chance making the spot stand out more. All acids react with the calcium content in the concrete, even vinegar. Sanding and scraping methods used in resurfacing a slab are the next step beyond a thorough scrubbing with an appropriate detergent, but remember, we’re a contract cleaning company, not a specialty restoration crew (yet). As part of the contract, always offer to apply cure-and-seal or acrylic floor finish as an add-on sale. Either of these coatings helps seal the concrete pores (all concrete is porous), add a shine, and protect the slab from further damage. As with old concrete, avoid acid-based cleaning products. Keep all of the same information from above in mind, but consider too that changing the surface of new concrete, unless prepping for another non-clear coating, is taboo. That’s where lawsuits get filed. Unless your company is professionally trained in slab resurfacing (grinding, sanding), DON’T use acids! The best choice for new slabs is something like this: Marko SC100 All Purpose Neutral Cleaner. Most concrete companies install a coating of Cure Seal Compound after their job is complete. This product used to be solvent-based, but now is available in acrylic-based finishes too. Both types are designed to soak into the surface of the concrete, filling the natural pores, protecting the slab from damage, slowing the drying time to make the surface harder, and leaving a temporary shine. Outside concrete is especially susceptible to damages from automotive grease, acid rain, heavy equipment, and wear from erosion over time. Indoor concrete gets the abuse of unprofessional homeowner cleaning tactics, food and drink spills, and common ablution products like nail polish, makeup, and rubbing alcohol. Think of polyurethane as a clear plastic surface. Concrete-rated polys come in many flavors, but serve the same purpose. They seal the slab, give a shine, last for years, and make the surface easier to clean. In a home, using a general purpose neutral cleaner, degreaser, or disinfectant within a pH range of 7.0 – 9.0 is sufficient. Rule of thumb: milder is better. Always use the mildest detergent that gets the job done. The drawbacks to polyurethane are encountered when refinishing or stripping is required. Polys usually have to be sanded off. The chemicals to remove them create hazardous waste as well as dangers to organic life. They are bad for you.
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Acrylic Floor Finish Sealed
Adhesives
Natural Paste Wax
Painted
Decorative Stains and Dyes
Stamped
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While not as permanent as polyurethane, acrylic floor finishes serve the same purposes. Like the stars of the sky, there are many qualities of acrylic finishes available. The cheap stuff doesn’t last long; the good stuff can last for years. You get what you pay for. However, it is even more critical that neutral cleaners ONLY are used for scrubbing these finishes. The homeowner should be instructed in proper care after the job, including materials to avoid. Acrylics are much easier to damage, but far easier to buff to a shine or apply new coats on top of the existing ones. Acrylics are more forgiving than polyurethanes. Most glues, adhesives, and mastics can be removed with citrus-and-solventbased cleaners, which soften them up, and then scraped away with a bladed tool. Paint removers containing MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), acetone, or alcohols may be necessary depending on the exact type of adhesive. Here again comes the issue of generating unwanted hazardous waste and carcinogenic materials. The easiest of concrete coatings to remove, a standard wax stripper (pH 11-13) is all that is necessary. Follow the same procedure as stripping acrylic floor finish from a VCT or vinyl floor. This involves soak time, rotary machines, tank vacuums, mopping equipment, etc. Paints include a wide variety of oil-based, epoxy-based, and latex-based products. Treat them the same as you would polyurethane coatings. Except epoxies, paints tend to be more easily damaged. They are softer than polys while tougher than acrylics in most cases. Milder detergents are recommended. Epoxies can be had in many qualities to withstand many thousands of pounds of pressure, so they rank in durability much like polyurethanes. Even strippers and degreasers (pH 10 – 14) can be used on most epoxies without fear. As with polyurethanes, removal of paints can generate unwanted hazardous situations. Beware of OHSA regulations pertaining to house remodeling. The fines can be huge, as in many thousands of bucks. Most decorative stains bond with the slab through chemical reactions, while most dyes are simply sprayed on to soak in while the concrete is curing/ drying. Usually a clear coating of polyurethane or acrylic floor finish is applied after completion; once again, to protect the surface from damage. In a home, damage to concrete usually occurs from soda spills, food spills, and common household cleaner usage. Any of these materials may contain acids or other incompatible chemicals. If the protective coating is compromised, even if from simply dragging furniture and causing scratches, it is best to recoat those wear areas. An intact clear coat virtually insures household chemical mistakes cannot change the stained or dyed surface. Stamped concrete is nothing more than pretty patterns etched, ground, or pressed into the surface to simulate tiles and stones. All types of coatings, dyes, and stains may be applied to the stamped surface. Treat these floors according to the coating type.
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This depends on your crew, your machine capabilities, and quality of chemicals used. Since we covered this thoroughly in Part One, let’s just add an assessment checklist: 1. Take exact measurements of the floor space and calculate the total square footage (length x width). 2. Decide on the types of cleaning equipment required based on square footage. 3. Pick the cleaning crew based on capabilities compared to job size. 4. Calculate the amount of labor time from beginning to completion based on crew speeds from past jobs using the equipment needed for the job. 5. Figure the trip costs including loading, setup, takedown, travel, and fuel. 6. Estimate the cleaning chemical requirements. 7. Don’t forget about the sundries like replacement mop heads, scraper blades, gum removers, rags, absorbents, etc. 8. Add about five percent to overall total to cover unexpected needs. 9. Add about five percent more to cover equipment wear. Rotary grit brushes deteriorate through usage and are expensive to replace. There is a difference between cleaning, refinishing, or resurfacing concrete. Resurfacing is not within the scope of what we are doing here. Cleaning and refinishing is what a cleaning company does. Unless it is your intention to become a slab resurfacing specialist, leave that to the specialists. Therefore, assess the cost of the cleaning and refinishing (if needed) only. Contemplation (C) means to weigh the pros, cons, and rewards of taking on a slab job. Make a thorough list of materials required to complete the task, from floor machines to labor costs. Think about it – hard. Punch holes in it. Question the capabilities of your company. Suspect that you may have missed something and snoop for it. Mistakes are costly. Don’t even attempt a slab job unless you are totally confident that you have identified all the variables that may affect your profits. Oooopsies mean the difference between making money and breaking contractors. eClean Magazine
Once all the costs are established, it is time to make a quotation (Q) – not estimation – to the customer. This usually comes in the form of a short contract for services that the customer must sign. NEVER take on slab work, or any other indoor cleaning project, without a written agreement stating exactly what work will be performed and at exactly what cost. Most cleaning companies make the mistake of giving an estimate rather than providing a fixed price based on differentiation, assessment, and contemplation. This leaves the idea in a homeowner’s head that maybe the cleaning company doesn’t actually know how to handle the job or at best, that there will be hidden costs to come around and slap them in the pocketbook. By giving an exact price in writing, several things will occur: A. The customer knows exactly where he or she stands on money owed. B. You know exactly how much profit to expect from the job. C. Both parties can move forward with confidence and understanding. D. If mistakes are made, at least they are honest ones, easier to forgive, and not due to a lack of differentiation, assessment, or contemplation. E. Since the contractor is ultimately responsible for everything that happens on the job, eliminate many issues by quoting properly. Quotation (Q), therefore, is a matter of exactness, accuracy, care, meticulousness, correctness, fastidiousness. If a cleaning contractor operates under these auspices at all times, it is more likely that the moving facets of the job will fall properly into place. This is mutually beneficial to all parties – wouldn’t you agree? That’s where acceptance (A) of the job comes in. Both parties – the homeowner and the contractor – must be in total agreement and understanding of every aspect of the proposed work. This reduces risks involved with working inside a home. What are the risks? Let’s list a few: • Water travels easily and sometimes goes where it shouldn’t.
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• Cleaning chemicals can cause damage to incompatible materials even though it doesn’t seem that they could. • Accidental damage can occur to furniture or other objects of value simply because cleaning equipment can be unwieldy in smaller spaces. • Like raccoons, sometimes employees see shiny baubles and just have to carry them off. Even if your employees have exemplary records, homeowners are very leery of unfamiliar folks having access to their stuff. Unwarranted accusations do occur. Bonded insurance is a must even if you work with your own family! • Homeowners are notorious for stiffing contractors if anything about the job becomes suspect. Get money up front to cover the costs before work begins. Fifty percent to start and fifty percent at the end is a generally reliable method. Most home cleaning jobs fall into the category of “petty” costs in small claims courts. Don’t go there. Use DACQAC instead. It’s cheaper. Acceptance of the proposed cleaning job should be in writing. Although hand-shake deals are the way many contractors prefer to work, when it comes to the inside of a home (the castle, you know), forget it. Shake if you wish, but sign on the dotted line every time. Now comes the final part: Completion (C). Completion does not mean hauling all the equipment back to the truck and heading out, although that’s part of it. No, there’s much more.
Coming in August
Fleet Washing CLEAN 28
eClean Magazine
Completing a job means that both parties are satisfied that the work was performed in the manner expected with the desired results achieved. Who should be the most concerned about how the job turned out? The homeowner? Not on your life! YOU, the contractor, the hired help, the promisor of great things to come. YOU are the ultimate judge on whether the job was completed to the satisfaction of all involved. There is an easy way to determine if the job has been completed properly though. Simply imagine yourself in the shoes of your client, the homeowner. Scrutinize the “completed” job as if even a hair found in the new acrylic floor coating were an affront to society. Dissect the entire performance from the first act of opening the door to turning off the light as you leave. Everything should be perfect, like a flawless diamond. Not a spec, not a scratch, not a single issue should be left unresolved. The homeowner should expect completion, but you should expect perfection. Never walk away from a job unless the customer is ecstatic with your work. This is Completion (C). Now we’ve discussed the variables associated with DACQAC. But, are they truly variables? Perhaps, but I prefer to make them known factors by gaining knowledge and expertise. In reality, DACQAC is just another method of describing sound business practices. If we eliminate variables by making the unknown known, we can turn our mediocre companies into cleaning powerhouses. Unfortunately, most contractors fall short somewhere along the line. What separates the followers of DACQAC from the fallen is the experience of increased profits and success. “Hey man, your crew did a great job! The quote was dead on, the job was completed on time, and they didn’t make a mess, but got the place fixed up real nice! I’m gonna tell everyone I know!” Versions of the same comment will be commonplace, word will spread, prestige will rise, and services will be sought. In this line of business, word of mouth determines the success and failure. Make those words positive to turn your company into a lean, mean, cleanup success by using DACQAC as your modus operandi on every job!
July 2012
www.eCleanMag.com
Three Benefits of Commercial Property Cleaning by Paul Horsley, Publisher Customers and clients are likely to are made after a customer enters the store. In decide whether to do business with certain other words, once you have customers in the organizations based on exterior cues. If your door there’s a good chance they will be open to business is being unfairly judged according buying one of your products or services. to its shabby exterior, commercial pressure ENGAGE EMPLOYEES washing services offer a wonderful solution. Many businesses are focused on boosting Pressure washing for commercial buildings profits by improving employee engagement. can make your business more attractive to Research has shown that engaged employees customers. Below is a look at the many benefits transfer their positive attitudes to customers, of commercial pressure washing. who are more likely to make purchases if they ATTRACT MORE CUSTOMERS experience a positive emotional connection to a Modern marketing professionals carefully certain brand. Overall, engaged employees sell review atmospherics when predicting a certain more and satisfy both internal and external store’s success. According to Contemporary customers more often. Marketing 2011, the term “atmospherics” refers Work setting is a major driver of employee to “physical characteristics and amenities that engagement. Employees are less likely to attract customers and satisfy their shopping be enthusiastic about working in a runneeds.” A store’s exterior is an important down, dirty office. Fortunately, there’s a aspect of atmospherics. Those who design retail quick, inexpensive way to boost employee outlets recognize that customers are attracted pride and engagement: commercial pressure to clean, contemporary buildings. A dingy, oldwashing. You may not be able to rent that looking property will fail to draw in customers. new, expensive office, but you can ensure your Retailers aren’t the only ones who are affected building’s exterior is sparkling clean. by architectural characteristics; across LIABILITY PROTECTION industries, clients are influenced by exterior Depending on what kind of business you atmospherics. run, your building’s exterior could contain Unfortunately, not every business can afford hazards for customers and employees. a building facelift. Storefront development can For instance, an automobile repair shop be so expensive that some cities fund storefront might have a slippery pool of engine fluids revitalization with public funds. Fortunately, where customers could easily fall and hurt pressure washing for commercial buildings themselves. Even if you’re not the owner of a is an affordable method of rejuvenating any mechanical company, most businesses have location. Pressure washing services can change a greasy, slippery dumpster zone. Failing to your store’s exterior from “blah” (or worse) to clean up this kind of area is like asking for a “wow!” in only a couple of hours. lawsuit. It’s only a matter of time before an If you do choose to partner with a employee or customer slips and calls for a commercial pressure washing company, make lawyer. sure they use earth-friendly cleaning solutions Pressure washing for commercial buildings and green techniques to capture waste runoff. can remove these dangerous areas by washing These are the methods green pressure washing away any slippery substances. Protect yourself services use to protect the planet. from lawsuits by regularly contracting with EARN HIGHER PROFITS pressure washing services to keep your In the U.S, 70 percent of purchase decisions building’s exterior in tip-top shape. eClean Magazine July 2012 www.eCleanMag.com 29