Tourneau minutes fall 2012 by pdhyman

MINUTES ISSUE 1.

Volume 2

CONTENTS 04

A NOTE FROM TOURNEAU CEO JAMES SEUSS

FIVE MODERN WATCHES BASED ON ICONIC CLASSICS

THE ELEGANT CALIBRE DE CARTIER AND ITS INSPIRED MOVEMENT

WELCOME

OLD IS NEW AGAIN

GRACE UNDER PRESSURE

(dining, action, diving & watches)

CHEF’S SPECIAL

FALL GUYS

WATER WORLD

LE BERNADIN’S ERIC RIPERT ON COLLECTING WATCHES AND THE CULINARY ARTS

SIX HOLLYWOOD LEGENDS AND THE WATCHES THEY WORE

DOWN TO THE DEPTHS AT FIVE OF THE BEST WRECKDIVING SITES IN THE WORLD

24 HOURS IN THE CITY OF LIGHTS

A JOURNEY THROUGH TOURNEAU’S RENOWNED SERVICE CENTER

FIVE DRESS WATCHES THAT REDEFINE “CLASSIC”

HIGHER LEARNING

THE ROLEX-SPONSORED LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM TRAINS TOMORROW’S ELITE WATCHMAKERS

SKELETON CREW

SKELETON WATCHES OFFER A GLIMPSE AT THE GEARS

GET THE STORY BEHIND SOME FAMOUS WATCH MONIKERS

WATCHES AND SPORTS CARS: A PERFECT MATCH

WHAT WATCH DOES THE BUSIEST MAN IN THE WORLD WEAR?

WHERE TO BUY ALL THESE (AND MORE) WONDERFUL WATCHES

EVERY SECOND COUNTS

DRIVEN TO PERFECTION

AT YOUR SERVICE

PRESIDENTIAL TIME

SET IN STONE

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

THE LIST

ARM CANDY THE SEASON’S MOST DAZZLING TIMEPIECES

ON THE COVER Style icon and watch lover Paul Newman, in a studio photo from the late 1950s. For more on Newman and five other Hollywood legends, turn to the “Fall Guys” portfolio

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WELCOME Welcome to the second issue of Minutes. We hope you had a great summer. At Tourneau, we were working around the clock: we opened a beautiful concept store with a Patek Philippe corner at South Coast Plaza in Orange County, California, and we partnered with the (RED)™ Campaign, unveiling two special-edition Tourneau (RED)™ watches, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria. We also worked diligently to bring together a stellar array of watch writers, journalists, photographers and designers for this edition of Minutes, which explores the passions of collectors, chefs, action heroes and athletes whose watches make us tick. In the pages that follow, read about the impressive horological eye of Le Bernardin’s chef Eric Ripert; check out the history of the “President’s Watch” in time for the U.S. election; and dote on Hollywood’s most revered men of action—including cover model Paul Newman—and the watches that helped them get the job done. You’ll also get a glimpse behind-the-scenes at Tourneau’s unparalleled service center, a review of the most amazing down-to-the-wire wins in the history of sports, and a coveted journey down to the five best wreck scuba diving sites in the world. Watches accompany us through life’s most exhilarating and important adventures, which is why we offer over 8,000 different styles to ensure that you’ll find your perfect travel partner. And like our selection, there’s something for everybody in this issue of Minutes. We always strive to bring you a blend of variety and expertise, the twin foundations of Tourneau.

JAMES SEUSS PRESIDENT AND CEO, TOURNEAU

Tourneau TNY Series 44 Chrono Automatic. $2,750

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OLD IS NEW AGAIN

BY JACK FORSTER

Every year, watchmakers offer eye-catching new timepieces that define the future of the industry. But some of the best styles (and values) come from watches whose designs are based solidly in the past and that have stood the test of time. Here are five current watches that pay homage to the iconic designs of their originals, offering timelessness, history and a guarantee of satisfaction for years to come. THE RADO ORIGINAL In 1962 Rado introduced the revolutionary Diastar, billed as the world’s first scratchproof watch. With its “hard metal” tungsten and titanium carbide case and sublime profile, the watch became a hit. But today’s Diastar fans needn’t go vintage hunting—the Rado Original has the same ultra-tough hard-metal case and design aesthetic that made the original such a sought-after piece. THE TANK LOUIS CARTIER XL SLIMLINE Cartier’s Tank, a classic of Art Deco design, debuted in 1918, taking its name from its resemblance to a military tank as seen from above. Tanks were very exclusive— until the 1960s Cartier often made fewer than 100 per year. The current version of the original—the Louis

Cartier XL Slimline—is a tad easier to find. Like the 1918 version, it’s ultra-thin, made with a high-grade mechanical movement, and classically designed. THE IWC PORTOFINO Famous for their Pilot’s Watch, IWC has also been making one of the world’s most classic dress watches since 1984: the thin, round and elegantly masculine Portofino. Named for the famed Italian Riviera hideaway, today’s version is no mere reproduction; it’s a perfect homage to the flawless watch that been gracing well-dressed wrists for a quarter century. JAEGER LECOULTRE REVERSO GRANDE 976 Another Deco-era classic, the Reverso, named for its reversible case, was originally developed for polo players

to safeguard the watch face from damage. The update of the 1931 version is the Reverso Grande 976, upsized for contemporary tastes, but with the same harmonious proportions and reversible case as the original. PANERAI RADIOMIR 3 DAYS In 1938 Panerai delivered what may have been the world’s ﬁrst true diver’s watch to the Italian navy. Called the Panerai Radiomir, it was named for its then-revolutionary luminous dial. Today’s version—the Radiomir 3 Days— is identical to the 1938 original, even if most people don’t use it to launch underwater commando raids on the Axis countries.

Jack Forster is the editor-in-chief of Revolution. He also writes for Forbes, Departures, and other periodicals, and is the author of Cartier Time Art, a history of Cartier’s clocks and watches, published by Skira.

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GRACE UNDER PRESSURE

hen a watchmaker as renowned as Cartier decides to improve upon the reliability of the automatic movements used in its wristwatches, it often ends up setting a new standard. Such is the case with the Caliber 1904 MC, Cartier’s first in-house automatic movement.

Released in 2010, the mechanism debuted in the exquisite Calibre de Cartier and now fulﬁlls the all-important position of the base movement within the Cartier catalogue of mechanical movements.

Named in homage to the birth of watchmaking at the brand—it was in 1904 that Louis Cartier created one of the ﬁrst ever wristwatches for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont—the movement was created by Carole Forestier-Kasapi (pictured on the next page), who leads the design and manufacturing of Cartier’s in-house movements, a role she has held since 2005. In an industry populated mostly by men, she is a shining example of female ingenuity, and it shows in both the 1904 MC and the Calibre de Cartier.

Measuring 25.6 mm by 4 mm, this grouping of 186 components was designed with chronometric stability in mind. Double spring barrels ensure long-term consistency for the mainspring. Further exemplifying its accuracy, the Caliber 1904 MC contains a stop-seconds function, which allows the wearer to set the time to the second, a feature that not all mechanical watches offer.

Forestier-Kasapi, who joined Cartier in 1999, leads a specialized team of more than twenty technicians representing all stages of movement creation—design, development, industrialization, prototyping, reliability and quality control—in the 1,000-man-strong Cartier factory located in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

As much as anything, the 1904 MC reﬂects a new way of thinking about automatic winding. Most likely invented in 1770 by Abraham-Louis Perrelet, automatic winding uses a component called the rotor to take over the manual winding usually performed by ﬁngers and the watch’s crown. The rotor, a weighted element that swings freely upon ball bearings—in the case of the Calibre de Cartier, ceramic ball bearings for guaranteed longevity—takes over the function of crown winding. The kinetic motion of the wearer’s arm continuously winds the movement, ensuring that the wearer never has to think about winding.

The robust and aesthetic Caliber 1904 MC owes its reliable capabilities to the diligent research performed by Forestier-Kasapi and her team, who spent a full three years developing and perfecting it.

This is the most comfortable way to wear a mechanical watch, and the Calibre de Cartier remains wound for a full 48 hours without the input of additional kinetic energy. Additionally, Cartier does not use the

“It is an extraordinary adventure to begin with a blank sheet of paper and write the ﬁrst pages of a novel within such a beautiful company as ours,” ForestierKasapi discloses. “[I experienced] real emotion in laying the ﬁrst stone in the catalogue of movements at Cartier.”

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“We reflected on infinitesimal details in terms of what we could win in performance, time, and eventual cost of manufacturing, finishing, pre-assembly and assembly of the movement,” she says. “We had the chance to represent something new in the movement and to develop our products without using accepted ideas, questioning everything.”

The Calibre de Cartier utilizes Cartier’s ﬁrst in-house automatic movement, which has set a new standard for the renowned watchmaker. BY ELIZABETH DOERR

traditional reverser in its automatic movement, having replaced this with a pawl system that results in faster and easier winding. “This system has the great advantage of not including little parts—like the reverser does—which are delicate and fragile,” Forestier-Kasapi explains. The first Cartier wristwatch powered by the unique new automatic movement is the Calibre de Cartier, instantly recognizable as a product of the house of Cartier. The first thing that strikes the observer is the reinterpretation of the Roman numeral XII in subtle relief that graces many watch dials created by this brand. Here, it is extra-large and resolutely modern, projecting a robust structure and masculine elegance. A date window is found at the three o’clock position while the subdial at six o’clock shows the passing seconds. Housed in stainless steel, rose gold, or a mixture of the two for a twotone look, the Calibre de Cartier is a pleasure to wear, thanks to its classically masculine size, four ergonomically curved lugs, and the polished, satin-brushed protection surrounding the crown, which not only enhances comfort but protects the crown and its sapphire cabochon from unnecessary duress. The beautifully finished movement is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back of the 42 mm case. The rotor and visible bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and the base plate displays the overlapping circles applied using a wooden peg and diamond paste known as perlage. “Obviously, our haute horlogerie collection will continue to receive new modular complications on the base of the 1904 MC. It is truly our reference caliber—outfitted with the reliability, durability and ideal chronometry to receive complications.” Going forward, Caliber 1904 MC will be Cartier’s base for added modular complications to create other, much more complicated movements such as the Calibre de

Cartier Multiple Time Zone and Perpetual Calendar models, which have already been released. Given all that she has accomplished, Forestier-Kasapi is both modest and unassuming. Still, she is pleased with the creation she and her team have worked so hard to call to life. “Caliber 1904 MC has proven to all that our company truly has strong ambitions in terms of movements and we have the means and the quality to be the best at those ambitions. My satisfaction is in seeing that today Caliber 1904 MC has the lowest rate of return of all Cartier movements. And at this moment in time, as a designer of movements, I recognize this as a real success.”

“The robust and aesthetic Caliber 1904 MC owes its reliable capabilities to the diligent research performed by Forestier-Kasapi and her team, who spent a full three years developing and perfecting it.” Elizabeth Doerr, author of Twelve Faces of Time, has written for Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, On Time, Cigar Aficionado, Robb Report, Hourglass Magazine, Plaza Watch, duPont Registry, International Watch, Revolution and QP, among others.

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EVERY SECOND COUNTS BY BRIAN O’CONNOR

While sports are inherently exciting, it’s the reality that they are played against measured time that provides their sense of drama and humanity. Every so often, as the clock ticks down toward impending expiration, the ﬁnal moments of a tight game provide tension, angst and heart-stopping heroics. Here are ﬁve of the best buzzer-beaters of all time. THE HAIL FLUTIE

THE UNDERDOGS

Down by ﬁve with no time left on the clock in this lateseason 1984 nail-biter, Boston College quarterback Doug Flutie desperately uncorked a 50-yard “Hail Mary” toward the end zone. The ball found the outstretched arms of wide receiver Gerard Phelan, giving BC a thrilling 47-45 win over the champion Miami Hurricanes, who had underestimated the small quarterback’s arm.

Forty-ﬁve seconds into stoppage-time play at the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, Landon Donovan authored American soccer’s most heroic moment, scoring on a lightning-quick counterattack to beat Algeria 1-0 and sending the underdog United States to the Cup’s second round.

THE SHOT With 3.2 seconds remaining in the ﬁnal game of the ﬁrst round of the 1989 NBA playoffs, Michael Jordan leapt into a fadeaway jumper from the foul line and hung in mid-air long enough to beat two Cleveland Cavalier defenders. As the buzzer sounded the ball swished through the net, giving birth to “His Airness.”

THE BUZZER-BEATER After the lead had seesawed ﬁve times in the last 31.5 seconds of the 1992 NCAA East Regional Finals, Duke’s Christian Laettner caught an inbounds pass, pivoted, and sank a 17-footer to give the Blue Devils a 104–103 victory over Kentucky, forever enshrining Laettner as college basketball’s most iconic buzzer-beater.

THE STUFF With six seconds left in the third period of Game 5 of the 2012 NHL playoff quarterﬁnals, New York Rangers’ Brad Richards stuffed the puck past goalie Braden Holtby to tie the game, stunning the Washington Capitals, who eventually lost the game in overtime.

WATCHES TO WEAR WHEN EVERY SECOND COUNTS • OMEGA SPEEDMASTER DATE AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH • BREMONT ALT-1 ZULU CHRONOGRAPH • TISSOT PRC 200 STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPH • TECHNOMARINE CRUISE STYLE STEEL WATCH • TOURNEAU TNY SERIES 44 CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC • CASIO G-SHOCK AVIATION MULTI BAND 6 TOUGH SOLAR WATCH

Brian O’Connor has written for The New York Times, Rolling Stone and Slate.

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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW HRANEK Chef Eric Ripert of the world-renowned Le Bernadin in New York City is an avid collector of fine timepieces. He opens up about food, watches and his dream collection of certified pre-owned treasures. Chef Eric Ripert quickly responds when asked about the first watch he ever purchased. “A Cartier Santos—I was about 15 or 16 years old,” says Ripert, the Michelin-starred chef and owner of Le Bernardin in New York City (he is also well known for his cookbooks as well as his muted appearances on Bravo’s Top Chef). The watch was a gift from his mother, whom he credits for sparking his passion for watches. He vividly remembers her collection of Cartiers and Omegas. The 47-year-old Frenchman has been adding watches to his collection ever since that first Cartier. The list now includes four Vacheron Constantins, a Hublot, a Patek Philippe and a Rolex. He tells me that what draws him to fine timepieces is the beauty, precision, and craft of watchmaking. We also talk about the concept of an heirloom and how significant it can be to hand something special down to the next generation. Watches, to his mind, fit this bill perfectly. I ask what watch he has earmarked for his son. “My platinum Vacheron Constantin Patrimony,” he says without hesitation. “But this is a watch that has to be earned. Besides being a good son, you have to be able to handle a watch like this.” Ripert’s choice makes sense—he seems to favor his Vacheron Constantins at the moment, even traveling to the factory in Geneva to meet and speak with the watchmakers who craft his beloved watches. As befits a man who began his career in the kitchen of the famous Parisian landmark La Tour d’Argent, Chef Ripert draws parallels between the artistry of watchmaking and the crafting of fine food. “With food the presentation—or the exterior, if you will—can often come easily. But as in watchmaking, it is the inner workings— the flavors—where the art is mastered.” He believes that time and flavor are fleeting elements and each of these has to be carefully calculated to produce the harmony of the final product. This is true of both cooking and watchmaking, where accuracy is everything. As an old-school watch enthusiast, Ripert prefers manuals over automatics, stressing his appreciation for the winding ritual. “The winding of the watch creates the relationship you develop with the timepiece,” he says. Ripert does not use a winding box. He prefers to store his watches in individual leather cases, each labeled with the name of the watch it contains. Though he rotates through all of the watches in his collection, the watch you will most likely see on his wrist nowadays is his Vacheron Constantin American 21. In fact, he rarely removes it, even when he is working.

CPO SELECTIONS Breguet Aeronavale Type XX LE Automatic ◆ “I like this one because it’s sporty and I’m also fascinated with blue-faced watches. Breguet has had a very long history with the French military, and this watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the French Royal Navy.” Vacheron Constantin Gold Cushion Manual “I love this watch. I love its simplicity. It reminds me of the Patrimony. It’s sophisticated without being too busy. And, of course, it’s a manual winder, which I very much prefer.” Rolex Air-King Automaticel Automatic “This is one of my favorite Rolexes—again, I love the blue face. Because of its price point this is a great watch for beginning collectors, and it has a nice tie to military history, originally built for long-distance pilots.” Breguet Gold Perpetual Calendar Equation of Time “This is a true masterpiece. It’s simple yet I love the craftsmanship that shows in the mechanism.” Vacheron Constantin Classic Rectangular Manual “Although square-faced, this again reminds me somewhat of the Patrimony in its simplicity and elegance. Square-faced watches have always been a curiosity for me, since time rotates and I always associate it with circles and spheres.” Rolex Daytona 18K White Gold Automatic “An iconic watch. A must-have. This, of course, is the chronograph that Paul Newman made famous. Highly collectible, and somewhat hard to find. Part of the Holy Grail for watch collectors, in fact.” Patek Philippe Rose Gold Gondolo Manual ✱ “Simple yet refined and made with some of the best craftsmanship and artistry on the market when it comes to the mechanism. But what really makes this watch is the Art Deco style, which shows in the shape.” Cartier Gold Ballon Bleu Chronograph Automatic “If you are a collector, you must have a Cartier. And the Ballon Bleu, with its rounded case and sapphire cabochon, is as good a place as any to start.” Audemars Piguet Rose Gold Millenary Perpetual LE Automatic ▲ “The rose gold on this watch really shows its elegance in its style. The case shape and numbers pay homage to some of the more vintage models the company used to make, bridging classicism and modernism.”

“Though there is a clock in the kitchen that we use, I still will look at the watch on my wrist,” he says. The American 21 was originally created by Vacheron in the early 1920’s and is often referred to as the “driver’s watch.” The dial is turned slightly so that the 12 o’clock position is where the crown normally sits, at the upper right corner. Thus, if the watch is worn on the right wrist, it is possible to read the time while keeping your hand on the steering wheel of, say, a vintage Porsche driving at 100 mph down the Autobahn. The American 21 was reproduced recently in a limited edition of 68 in yellow gold. Chef Ripert received number seven, by request. “There are some watches you see and you just can’t seem to get them out of your head and you have to posses them,” Ripert says of his purchase. That being said, he is receptive to new additions in his collection, though none have been acquired recently. “A wristwatch is deﬁnitely a statement of who you are and what you represent, and with the American 21 on my wrist, that statement for me is quite clear. What I’m saying is I am the driver behind Le Bernardin.”

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RECOMMENDED TIME-SENSITIVE CULINARY ITEM Wild Strawberry Soufflé from Ripert’s A Return to Cooking: “Soufflé is a recipe I associate with time. This wild strawberry version is timely in the seasonality of the ingredients and also the nature in which it is prepared and cooked. Timing is vital in the process—not just for the soufflé to rise perfectly but the timing of the whole procedure: pre-heating the oven, beating the egg whites, mixing together the ingredients, the cooking. A few extra seconds could destroy it.” To see additional timepieces from Tourneau’s exquisite Certiﬁed Pre-Owned collection, or to sell us your watch, visit: tourneau.com/cpo

Eric Ripert, wearing his Vacheron Constantin American 21

Matthew Hranek’s writing and photography have appeared in GQ, Travel + Leisure, and Martha Stewart Living, among others. His blog, The William Brown Project, details life on his farm in upstate New York along with his eff orts to create the perfect vintage Rolex collection.

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n the rolling farmland of Pennsylvania Dutch country stands a bastion of horological expertise. Located 80 miles northwest of Philadelphia, The Lititz Watch Technicum is an educational bulwark of centuries-old watchmaking craftsmanship in an era awash in massproduced, disposable electronic accessories.

BY WILLIAM GEORGE SHUSTER

Founded by Rolex in 2001—the school graduated its tenth class this past August—it resides in a stately two-story stone citadel designed by noted architect Michael Graves to resemble the barns of local farms. Its stated purpose is to “protect the future of this time-honored craft by ensuring the quality education of the watchmakers of the future.” Indeed, the school was started to stem what was, until recently, a serious shortage of skilled watchmakers who service timepieces. This crisis, like so many others, began in the 1970s, when inexpensive quartz watches radically changed watchmaking. Accurate, cheap to make, and disposable, they quickly dominated the watch business. Sales of mechanical watches plummeted, and with them, retailers’ need for professional watchmakers. Retirement and mortality took thousands more. From 30,000 in the 1970s, their number shrank to 10,000 in the 1990s, falling to less than 4,000 by the start of the current decade. Meanwhile, many U.S. watchmaking programs shut their doors. In the late 1990s, however, a mechanical watch renaissance of sorts began. While quartz still dominates the overall market, mechanical watches once again account for a large part of sales for mid- to luxury-priced brands, thanks to a renewed fascination with craftsmanship, exclusivity and durability. As a result, more watch brands are producing mechanical movements. Thus there is increased demand from retailers, watch brands, service centers, and consumers for watchmakers to service these timepieces, which has led to a renewed interest in the watchmaking profession. The school’s principal, Herman Mayer, a respected watchmaking educator trained in Germany, leads a staff of three teachers (all experienced watchmakers), a school administrator and an assistant. The school features state-of-the-art equipment; labs for cleaning movements and for polishing cases and bracelets; a classroom where horological theory is taught; a library; and administrative ofﬁces. But the program is centered around the three brightly lit, pristine workshops where students hone their craft. Originally, the school advertised for students, but now its reputation is its best calling card. “Our solid program, well-deﬁned curriculum, and successful graduates give us a strong image that constantly draws applicants,” says Mayer.

From a pool of about 100 annual applicants, some 30 candidates are invited each spring for a day of interviews and tests. Of those, only 14 are chosen for each incoming class. Most are men, aged 18 to 45 and college-educated (there are currently only two women enrolled). Rolex pays the tuition and the school provides all training materials. Students, however, have to buy their own watchmaker’s toolkits, which run about $7,000. Of course, they’ll use them for the rest of their working lives, so it’s a worthy investment. Students come to the Technicum for many reasons. Some have prior contact with watchmaking, like Janey Yu, 28, whose father is a watchmaker. Others are starting second careers, like Michael Graham, 37, a long-time precision instrument maker, who says he enjoys “the chance to concentrate on the aesthetics and beauty of a watch.” “Others like making things work,” notes Karen Harnish, the school’s administrator. “And some just dislike ofﬁce work, or simply want something different.” What the school looks for—in addition to dexterity, hand-eye coordination and mechanical aptitude— are self-starters with strong communication, social and strategic skills. Abstract thinking is also essential, notes Mayer, because diagnosing problems in coin-sized watch movements with hundreds of parts requires a fair bit of conceptualization. The two-year program follows the 3,500-hour curriculum of the Swiss American Watchmakers Training Alliance (SAWTA) of U.S. watch schools and groups. Its development was overseen by Mayer, who is also the co-director of SAWTA. Courses cover the history and culture of watchmaking; micromechanics (component and toolmaking); diagnosing and repairing mechanical movements (including vintage ones), quartz movements, cases, and bracelets; and customer service. The curriculum expands on traditional Swiss watchmaking training by adding information relevant to U.S. watchmakers, like estimating costs, parts logistics, quality control, and customer consultation.

Instruction is “intense,” say both students and school officials. The school day starts sharply at 7:30 a.m. and runs until 4 p.m., and there are few days off. Like the timepieces they work on, students are expected to be precise. Wearing blue lab coats for micromechanics or polishing, and crisp white ones at their workbenches, students work intently under the tutelage of experienced watchmakers. They make and assemble watch parts; take apart, put together, oil, clean and repair numerous timepieces; learn to build a required “school watch,” and to manage and organize a workshop. Students are encouraged to stay late and work on side projects, like the lobby’s glass-cased precision regulator pendulum wall clock, handcrafted by the class of 2007 using technical designs developed by students. “We want our people to be self-starters,” says Mayer. “We expect them to study at home, research the watch industry, and learn things, like the types of watch calibers used now and in the past.” Training is rigorous, but the results are rewarding. Graduating as “full-fledged watchmaking students,” students receive the Lititz Watch Technicum diploma, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute CW21 certificate (for meeting watchmaking’s most stringent standards) and the SAWTA certificate. Graduates tend to land good jobs, with salaries starting near $50,000. A few join service centers or start businesses. But most go to work for jewelers, with their workshop on the sales floor so customers can see the watchmakers performing their age-old craft. The program, however, is more than a means to job security and a paycheck. Many echo the sentiments of Tyler Ludwigson, 25, who traded a career in psychology for a life exploring the intricacies of watchmaking. “You can put your whole self into it,” he says. “No other work mixes art and function like watchmaking does.”

William George Shuster has been an award-winning journalist for 40 years. He writes extensively about watches and the international watch business.

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DRIVEN TO PERFECTION BY JASON HARPERR

Cars, like watches, serve both as functional machines and works of art, especially when one is talking about European sporting automobiles of a certain pedigree and price point. But driving one of these precision machines requires a watch that is built for such a purpose. Below we proﬁle three highly prized collectible cars and the ﬁne timepieces they inspired. ALFA ROMEO 8C COMPETIZIONE This car has a heritage that dates to the Mille Miglia, a grueling 1,000-mile race held on public roads across Italy that began in the 1920s. Featuring both gorgeous cars and harrowing switchback roads, the early years were dominated by Alfa Romeo’s 6C and 8C models, cars of perfect proportions and staggering beauty. The 2007 Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione coupe pays tribute to those early versions in both its style and performance. With suggestive hips, teardropshaped side windows and deep sloping hood, it is the Sophia Loren of supercars. Inspired by the dashboards of the early Mille Miglia racers like the original Alfas, Chopard’s GT XL Chrono is built for both speed and comfort. YEARS MADE 2007 AND 2008 ORIGINAL BASE PRICE $265,000 WATCH CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA GT XL CHRONO TOURNEAU SPECIAL EDITION

BUGATTI TYPE 57SC ATLANTIC Few vintage cars are as sought-after as the Bugatti Atlantic, a coach-made work of art. Only four were made, and only two exist today, one of which is owned by fashion magnate Ralph Lauren. No other car looks anything like it, with its bubble-like roof, long hood and swooping twin front fenders. But it’s the details that make this car, including the naked rivets on the exterior, wooden steering wheel and split front window. It’s easy to see how Ralph Lauren found the inspiration for his Sporting Automotive watch, with an elm-inlaid dial and black leather band, which honor the Atlantic’s wooden dashboard and leather seats. And, since you’re unlikely to ever get your hands on this car, the next best thing to do is wrap a piece of it around your wrist. YEAR MADE 1938 PRICE AT AUCTION $30-MILLION-PLUS WATCH RALPH LAUREN SPORTING AUTOMOTIVE

FERRARI F40 Mortals don’t drive Formula 1 racecars. But they can drive a car laden with technology derived from the world of Grand Prix. Ferrari’s stunning F40 looks as radical today as when it rolled off the line in 1987. Extremely rare, it was the fastest consumer car Ferrari had ever created to that point. Built with materials like carbon ﬁ ber (which made it light) and a 400-plus horsepower V8 (which made it rattlesnake-quick), there’s no question it was derived from the same Italian minds that designed F1 winners season after season. Any wristwatch that carries the F1 name must be light, functional and tough enough to handle intense engine vibrations. Such is the case with the FORMULA 1 Chronograph by TAG Heuer, a brand associated with racing since the early 1900s. Ferrari lovers should also consider the new VERTU CONSTELLATION QUEST FERRARI, inspired by the Ferrari 458. YEARS MADE 1987-1992 PRICE AT AUCTION $350,000-PLUS WATCH TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 CHRONOGRAPH

Jason Harper writes the weekly high-end automobile column for Bloomberg News. He has also written for Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and Automobile Magazine, among others.

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OURNEAU’s Long Island City workshop is a hive of activity where watchmakers can service almost any watch under the sun. BY JONATHAN BUES I arrived at Tourneau’s New York Time “We’ll visit him in a little while. By then Machine on a June morning wearing the your watch will be in about 300 parts.” first mechanical watch I had ever bought, During my day at Tourneau’s service facility, an entry-level Hamilton chronograph. I saw timepieces from a handful of the Seven years prior, I’d proudly purchased fi nest brands in watchmaking. There were the watch for what at the time was a more Rolexes than I could count, and Irby considerable sum. I hadn’t even bothered confi rmed that this highly collectible to set my watch, as I knew that within a few marque accounts for nearly 50 percent of his hours it would read several minutes slow. Mechanical watches need to be maintained, and I’d dropped the ball. Tourneau Time Machine, like each of the Tourneau locations across the country, has dedicated professionals on hand to evaluate timepieces and recommend service needs. These range from in-store battery changes (free for watches purchased at Tourneau) to complete overhauls at Tourneau’s Long Island City workshop, the largest watch-repair facility in the United States. Throughout the process, Tourneau regularly emails customers to inform them of the status of their timepiece’s servicing. (Before customers agree to have a watch serviced, Tourneau provides an estimate of the cost). After a watch is evaluated and photographed, it goes to the store’s secure vault. From there an armored car whisks it away to master watchmaker Terry Irby and his team in their Long Island City facility, modeled after the laboratory-like watch manufactures that dot the landscape of Romandie, the French-speaking region of Switzerland. I met Irby, a genial Arkansas native from a family of watchmakers, in his office to discuss the process that my watch would undergo. Within a few seconds of holding it, Irby predicted that a handful of its parts, including the reversing wheel, would likely need to be replaced.

“We’re going to ﬁx your watch,” Irby told me. “And we’re going to do it today.” Before showing me around the sprawling facility that employs 25 watchmakers and a number of supporting staff, Irby handed my watch to his trusted associate Rafaat Mihkail, a watchmaker with 28 years of experience who, like Irby, hails from a long line of watchmakers. “Rafaat is one of the best when it comes to servicing chronographs,” Irby told me.

under the sun, including some no longer in production. (Including its certiﬁed pre-owned inventory, Tourneau sells nearly 90 brands.) Jai Shivprasad is responsible for keeping stock of those myriad movements and parts. A former schoolteacher with 40 years of watchmaking experience, Mr. Shivprasad

SERVICE

“We have a whole room where we store a large inventory of Rolex parts,” said Irby. “We used to keep all parts in one room, until it became clear that Rolex warranted the extra space.”

The task of removing my watch’s scratches fell to Tourneau’s expert reﬁnishers, whose work brings even the most beaten-up timepiece back to new. The head of the department of four, a gregarious gentleman named Tito, has been restoring watches for more than 30 years. His years of experience have taught him how to approach delicate situations, such as polishing gold-and-steel bracelets. Tito told me that he often encounters watches that present new challenges, such as a Panerai timepiece whose bracelet was comprised of beautiful overlapping brushed and polished links. “The only way to return this bracelet to its factory ﬁnish,” he said, “is to disassemble it and polish each link individually.”

@ YOUR

division’s annual service, owing to the fact that so many people own, collect and wear Rolexes.

the loose casing screws could cause severe damage if left inside the movement.

has an encyclopedic knowledge of watch movements and components. His expertise reaches even to obscure parts out of production for more than half a century. Rather unsurprisingly, Jai too has watchmaking in his blood—he learned the trade from his grandfather.

Before a watch is considered ﬁt for return to its owner, it must pass through Tourneau’s rigorous Quality Control department. Here, a technician double-checks the watch’s rate and amplitude. For good measure, each watch is demagnetized, a procedure that reverses the detrimental effects that modern electronics have on hairsprings. If any irregularities are discovered, the watch is returned to the relevant department so the problem can be corrected. “Our watchmakers are graded based on their performance—on how many of their repairs do not pass Quality Control or are returned by customers for further work,” Irby said. “No one is perfect, but we strive for perfection at Tourneau.”

“Over time, you get to know the parts and their particular personalities,” the witty In addition to Rolexes, I witnessed a number parts manager told me. “They are like of Cartiers, TAG Heuers, Raymond Weils, people. Some are friends; some are enemies.” I couldn’t be happier with my TechnoMarines and Movados. I even spied chronograph, which hasn’t left my Back at Rafaat Mihkail’s desk, my a disassembled Patek Philippe pocket wrist since my visit. It performs chronograph was, as Terry Irby had watch that was likely more than 70 years exactly as it did the day I bought it. predicted, in several hundred parts, a old, a true watch-geek treasure. Luckily, Terry and his team will be number of which were less than a there the next time it needs servicing. Keeping up with all of the different millimeter in length. Rafaat had sorted and movements and components used by cleaned the parts, and was explaining that various brands is a challenge. The average in addition to the reversing wheel, some age and experience level of Tourneau’s other components needed replacing. watchmakers is higher than those found Jonathan Bues is the managing editor and web editor of International Watch magazine, Two broken casing screws had dislodged at your typical Swiss manufacture. a leading consumer publication on the topic of Swiss watchmakers, after all, are typically and fallen into the movement, and the fine watchmaking. He has written about the responsible for working on just one brand. watch’s pallet fork, a vital component of the fascinating subject of mechanical watches for By contrast, Tourneau’s watchmakers escapement, had gone bad. It was a good service just about every type of watch thing that I brought my watch in when I did: more than six years.

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SKELETON CREW

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

SE T

AG AI

NS T

MO SA IC

OF C

EL BO NE

DEVON TREAD 1B DLC and stainless steel 53.3mm case, four interwoven time belts, Microswitch crown, rubber strap. $17,500 HUBLOT AERO BANG GOLD Brushed finish 18K rose gold 44mm case, automatic movement, chronograph and date, black skeleton dial, rubber strap. $18,300

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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EIR H T PSE M I GL

T H ES E SKE LETO N WA TCHE S

S. E D I I NS

LET Y OU…

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANOINVERSE XL Stainless steel 42mm case, handwound movement, small seconds, power-reserve indication, silver galvanic treated with ruthenium dial, see-through caseback, alligator strap. $12,600

VULCAIN ANNIVERSARY HEART Stainless steel 42mm case, handwound movement, Vulcain Cricket Calibre V17, skeleton dial with blue indices, alligator strap. $7,995

TAG HEUER CARRERA AUTOMATIC TWIN-TIME Polished steel 39mm case, automatic movement, 2nd time zone and date, white dial, alligator strap. $2,900

JAEGER LECOULTRE GRANDE REVERSO 976 18K pink gold case, hand-wound movement, small seconds, silvered satin-brushed and guilloché dial, alligator strap. $15,900

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT DOUBLE HEART BEAT Stainless steel 34mm case set with diamonds, automatic movement, black mother-of-pearl dial with central heart-shaped guilloché and diamonds, satin strap. $3,995

CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED DANIEL ROTH MASTER CHRONO SKELETON 18K white gold 38 x 41mm case, automatic movement, chronograph and date, silver skeleton dial with painted roman numerals. $19,200

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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FALL GUYS By Elizabeth Warner

When you think about Hollywood’s leading men of action, you picture fast cars, gruff demeanors and sleek weapons. But there’s another component that sets a certain band of brothers apart—namely, a love for expensive timepieces. From Bond to Brando the men of action collected in this portfolio are inseparable from their watches.

STEVE McQUEEN

JASON STATHAM JASON STATHAM

STEVE McQUEEN

MOVIE: TRANSPORTER (2002) WATCH: PANERAI LUMINOR CHRONO DAYLIGHT

MOVIE: LE MANS (1971) WATCH: HEUER MONACO

Though Statham had been in notable films prior to Transporter, it was his turn as a scowling, no-questionsasked driver for hire that turned him into the action man of the decade. Statham’s characters tend to don nice suits, drive sporty cars and wear expensive watches—in this instance, a Luminor Chrono Daylight. It’s fitting that his Transporter character was a Special Forces officer, as the sleek, stealthy Luminor was originally made for Italian army officers. A Panerai devotee both on-screen and off, Statham is rarely without his Italian chronograph. And given that he’s called on to navigate the dark, murky waters of Hollywood, the Panerai’s unique illumination is likely quite useful.

Hollywood’s undisputed king of cool was well known for his love of precision instruments, ranging from racecars and dirt bikes to his beloved watch collection, which included Rolex Submariners and Explorers. For the cult favorite Le Mans, which pits Porsche against Ferrari in a grueling 24-hour race, he selected a Heuer Monaco, based on its sporting pedigree and distinctive blue face and white sub-dial. Heuer, an official timekeeper of Formula1 racing for years, introduced the watch in 1969 to commemorate the Monaco Grand Prix, and it was the first automatic, square-cased chronograph. (Its association with McQueen has made it an extremely rare collectible today.) The Monaco that McQueen chose to wear in Le Mans typified all his passions, to say nothing of his unerring eye for style.

MARLON BRANDO

ROBERT DOWNEY JR. ROBERT DOWNEY JR.

MARLON BRANDO

MOVIE: IRON MAN (2008) WATCH: BULGARI DIAGONO

MOVIE: APOCALYPSE NOW (1979) WATCH: ROLEX GMT MASTER

Long regarded as one of his generation’s finest actors, Robert Downey Jr. is now a certified man of action thanks to his run as Tony Stark, the genius billionaire bon vivant who fights crime wearing an iron suit that he created. He’s also a bona fide watch lover off-screen, taking every opportunity to sport exotic luxury timepieces. Over the course of Iron Man, Iron Man 2, and The Avengers, Stark has sported a jeweler’s case full of watches, including a Hublot, at least three Jaeger LeCoultres, and the Bulgari Diagono, visible under the cuff of his bespoke tuxedo in the accompanying photo. What else would a wealthy superhero wear to dinner before saving the world from assured destruction but a watch inspired by Myron’s Discobolus statue?

One of cinema’s most daunting and provocative roles was that of Colonel Walter Kurtz, the rogue Green Beret Martin Sheen is sent to terminate in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 Vietnam War masterpiece. An avid watch collector, Brando was rarely spotted without a Rolex and owned several models. For this role he chose to wear the GMT Master, although a luxury timepiece of this caliber was clearly not U.S. Army standard issue. But Brando, in both his life and his art, liked to keep people guessing, so the provenance of this one—whether a deliberate selection or just what he happened to have on at the time—may never be known. Another curious fact: A close viewing of the movie reveals that the watch’s bezel is missing. Was this a character choice? A mishap on set? Whatever the case, it’s more than ﬁtting for both the actor and the character.

PAUL NEWMAN

DANIEL CRAIG PAUL NEWMAN MOVIE: THE COLOR OF MONEY (1986) WATCH: ROLEX DATEJUST STAINLESS STEEL

By the time Newman reprised his role as pool hustler “Fast Eddie” Felson he was both a preeminent Hollywood man of action and a well-known collector of Rolexes. This particular turn as Tom Cruise’s mentor won him an Oscar, and his choice of timepiece—the stainless steel Rolex Datejust—seems apt, mirroring the character’s steely resolve and low profile while still exuding confidence. Though Newman had an array of Rolexes, his wife Joanne Woodward gave him the infamous “Daytona” in 1972, which he reportedly wore until the day he died. Indeed, the model soon became known as the “Paul Newman Daytona” and is now a rare collectible that routinely fetches six figures at auction. As Fast Eddie might say, “rack ’em.”

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DANIEL CRAIG MOVIE: SKYFALL (2012) WATCH: OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN

James Bond is easily the most iconic, beloved wristwatchwearing action hero of all time, and his watches typify chic, stylish efﬁciency. But Bond’s timepieces do more than tell time and complement his sartorial splendor. They are frequently called into service, be it Sean Connery’s Rolex Submariner and Roger Moore’s Seiko G757, to name but two. In Skyfall Daniel Craig races from London to Shanghai to save MI6 while sporting a Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. The man with the license to kill will need the watch’s chromium nitride diving scale and helium escape valve (keeping it water-resistant to a depth of 600 meters). And, lest there be any confusion as to ownership, the tiny “007” logo at the seven o’clock position ensures that people know the watch belongs to Bond. James Bond. Author and on-air radio personality Elizabeth Warner is the author of Ditched by Dr. Right (Random House). She’s worked for Time, Entertainment Weekly, BusinessWeek, and Martha Stewart Living, among others. She hosts two weekly radio programs and is a former brand ambassador for Breguet.

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PRESIDENTIAL TIME

Since 1953 every sitting United States president has been given a Vulcain Cricket, known as “the President’s Watch.” With the 2012 presidential election a few weeks away, it’s the perfect moment to explore the history of this unique timepiece. BY JACK FORSTER

According to the conventional wisdom, the President of the United States is the most powerful man in the world. He’s also the busiest, essentially on call for an entire four-year term, every last moment of his existence blocked out in a leather-bound appointment book. So what is the watch of choice for the man for whom every minute matters? As befits an office now run by image handlers and national polls, American presidents (and presidential hopefuls) for the last two decades have been very democratic when it comes to choosing a watch. Our leaders need to appear folksy and common, and this implies the wearing of affordable watches. This trend began with Bill Clinton, who wore a Timex Ironman while in office (despite being an enthusiastic collector of high-end timepieces, including a Cartier Santos Dumont and a Panerai Luminor). George W. Bush preferred a simple black Timex. And President Obama wears a plain Jorg Gray quartz chronograph given to him by his Secret Service detail. Even Mitt Romney has gotten the memo: The watches he’s worn on the campaign trail have been decidedly understated, including what appears to be an appropriately named Nixon Private (see photo above), which carries a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $125. But since 1953, every man who has held the highest office in the land has been given another watch, one with such a long relationship with the White House that it’s come to be known as “the President’s Watch.” That timepiece is the Vulcain Cricket, the world’s first fully functional alarm wristwatch, which debuted in 1947. Named for the disproportionately loud sound created by the stridulations of a cricket, the watch is now a part of presidential history. Indeed, the analog sound is very reminiscent of the loud chirping familiar to anybody who has been outdoors during the summer. The original Cricket was manually wound with an elegant round face. It looked very much like a classic dress watch, except for the telltale extra hand and additional crown, both used for setting the alarm. Today, the company offers a range of models and styles based on the signature Cricket, including the 50s Presidents’ Watch, which has the look and functionality of the original but with an updated automatic movement. All of them are, of course, as loud as ever. The latest president to receive a Cricket was President Obama, who was given his in August 2009. His version is a limited-edition update to the original, known as the Cricket Anniversary Heart model. The $9,975 watch features a 42-millimeter case with an open dial that fully reveals the V-18 movement inside. The president’s name is engraved on both the movement and the case. But he’s far from the first POTUS to own one. In fact, the tradition started with President Harry Truman, who was given a Vulcain Cricket in 1953 by the president of the White House News Photographers Association. Truman enjoyed wearing several different watches but he wore his Cricket with some regularity, using it for its intended purpose of reminding him of important

appointments often enough that it occasionally startled his Secret Service detail, an indication of just how remarkably loud the Cricket alarm actually is. The key to the Cricket’s success is, of course, sound, but this is more complex than it might seem. Although small alarm clocks had been made before, and attempts to reduce alarm mechanisms to wristwatch size had been made, they all faced the problem of low volume. Wristwatch alarms were not loud enough to awaken the owner, the standard by which any effective alarm timepiece is judged. To meet this goal, Vulcain created a new alarm watch complication. In the Cricket watch, when the alarm goes off, a hammer strikes a pin attached to a thin metal membrane inside the outer watch case. This thin membrane has a low mass that allows the energy from the hammer to be converted into sound very efficiently. To keep the resulting buzz from being muffled, the Cricket features small holes in the case-back, so the sound can travel out of the case unobstructed. It’s more than loud enough to wake a sleeper— in fact the Cricket alarm can easily be heard across a large room, and over loud conversation. While Truman was the first president to wear one, he was far from the last. Dwight Eisenhower was such a fan that he wore a Cricket alarm watch before becoming president, continuing that tradition during his tenure. The watch even caused embarrassment for the usually unflappable Ike. During a press conference where he was arguing that the tariffs on Swiss imports should be raised, his Cricket went off, loudly alerting reporters that he was a fan of at least one high-precision product of Switzerland. Though John F. Kennedy isn’t known to have worn one (preferring, among others, a gold Omega dress watch), his successor, Lyndon Johnson, often wore a Cricket (though he is also known for his habit of wearing a Rolex Day-Date—the only other watch to be called “President” by watch historians). Richard M. Nixon and Ronald Reagan both had Cricket watches and wore them frequently, and Presidents Ford, Carter and George H.W. Bush were all proud Cricket owners, as is current Vice President Joe Biden. Whomever America chooses as the next president will likely wear a low-key watch chosen by his handlers as he goes about running the affairs of the nation. But if Mitt Romney is elected, he’ll be given a Vulcain Cricket, in keeping with tradition. Obama, should he win, will likely not be given a second Cricket, as the company seems to follow a one-per-president rule. Fortunately, the rest of us are free to choose a watch without worrying about the message it sends to the voting public. And whatever side of the aisle you’re on, casting a vote for the Vulcain Cricket makes sense if you’re a fan of unwavering design and a deep sense of history. WATCHES THAT MAKE YOU FEEL PRESIDENTIAL Want to wear a watch befitting the POTUS without having to run for office? Try one of these stellar timepieces: RAYMOND WEIL FREELANCER AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH, TOURNEAU TNY SERIES CHRONO AUTOMATIC, CARTIER ROADSTER

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ARM C A N D Y PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

CHOPARD IMPERIALE 18k rose gold 38mm case with 2.27 cts of diamonds, date, mother-of-pearl dial, amethyst crown, 18k rose gold bracelet with 4 amethysts. $69,200

Handbag by Alexander McQueen

CARTIER TANK ANGLAISE 18K rhodiumized white gold 39.2 x 29.8mm case and dial set with diamonds, automatic movement, crown set with a diamond, 18K rhodiumized white gold bracelet. $43,510 TOURNEAU TNY SERIES 35 Stainless steel 35mm case with diamond set bezel, mother-of-pearl dial, quartz movement, alligator strap with ardillon buckle. $2,600

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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EMBRACE THE SEASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRECIOUS STONES, GEMS, AND INLAYS AS LUXURY WATCHES AND ACCESSORIES WALK THE WALK

BULGARI BZERO1 Steel and pink gold 35mm case, quartz movement, mother-of-pearl flower and 0.11 ct diamond dial, leather strap. $6,350 HUBLOT GOLD TUTTI FRUTTI 18K red gold 41mm case set with 48 green sapphire baguette, automatic movement, chronograph and date, matte green dial, rubber and alligator strap. $40,500 RADO TRUE JUBILE High-tech ceramic 27mm case, quartz movement, white .054 ct diamond dial, high-tech ceramic bracelet. $2,100

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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WORLD

BY JASON HEATON

DIVING THE WORLD’S MOST EXOTIC SHIPWRECK SITES REQUIRES PERSISTENCE, A PASSPORT AND A BIT OF PREPARATION (ALONG WITH THE RIGHT WATCH). WE TAKE YOU DOWN TO THE DEPTHS AT FIVE OF THE BEST. Almost every body of water in the world is home to a shipwreck of one sort or another. From the smallest lake to the greatest ocean, man has found a way to sink vessels in any number of ways— torpedoed in battle, rammed in the fog, run upon a shoal or sometimes intentionally sunk to create an artificial reef. Some ships have gone down with mundane cargo, like iron ore or lumber, while others hold the proverbial pirate’s booty, which every diver hopes to find. But all of them offer recreational divers the chance to explore new worlds. That’s the thing about shipwrecks—they lie silently and leave no trace after they’ve sunk, making diving them feel like a new discovery every time. We’ve assembled five that represent a cross-section of geographies, accessibilities and the circumstances surrounding their demise.

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HMS THISTLEGORM

GUNILDA

RED SEA, EGYPT

ROSSPORT, ONTARIO

The Thistlegorm is consistently on or near the top of every wreck diver’s list of favorites, and for good reason. It has the holy trinity of wreck dive attributes: accessibility, visibility, and fascinating things to see. It sits in 100 feet of gin-clear warm water off the coast of Ras Mohammed, Egypt in the Red Sea. Bombed by the German Luftwaffe in 1941, she sank with a hold full of varied cargo—trucks, motorcycles, rubber boots, even two steam locomotives. The wreck sat undisturbed until the early 1950s, when Jacques Cousteau discovered it with the help of some local ﬁshermen.

No wreck could be more different from the Thistlegorm than the Gunilda. While she is decades older, having sunk in 1911, she is also far better preserved, thanks to her ﬁnal resting place in the deep, fresh waters of Lake Superior. But for the privilege of wondering at the intact gold-leaf scrollwork on her hull and the hanging chandelier inside, you have to be willing to brave bone-chilling water and the narcosis-inducing 265-foot depth. This is not a dive for the timid. The Gunilda sank due to the arrogance of her rich owner, Standard Oil investor William Harkness, who waved off the advice to employ a local pilot as he navigated the rocky shoals off Rossport, Ontario. Sure enough, Harkness managed to run his lovely 200-foot yacht aground. An attempt to free the injured boat only ﬂooded her torn hull with freezing Lake Superior water and she plummeted to her grave, where she awaits brave, drysuit-clad divers today.

Relatively long bottom time combined with safe penetration combine to make this an easy wreck to explore for divers of all experience levels. And if you’re tired of manmade scenery, the wreck also teems with groupers, barracudas and batﬁsh. But get there soon. The briny Red Sea is having its way with the Thistlegorm and every year it deteriorates a little more.

Recommended Dive Watch:

PANERAI LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS

BREMONT SUPERMARINE

If you’re diving the Gunilda, you’re going to wear a drysuit and that requires a long, secure watchstrap. So opt for Panerai’s long-length hook-and-loop strap that utilizes the brand’s quick-release system. Set the chunky timing bezel before you descend to track your (short) bottom time. It gets dark 250 feet below the surface, so you’ll be thankful for the luminous dial markers and hands for which the brand is famous.

Started by two British brothers, Bremont’s tagline is “Tested Beyond Endurance” and the brand backs up this claim. They encase a chronometer-grade Swiss movement inside a highly shock-resistant steel case that is also anti-magnetic and water-resistant to approx. 1650 feet. So it should have no problem with the mere 100-foot depth of the Thistlegorm. And Bremont is a British brand, making it perfect for diving a British shipwreck.

RED ROCKS ON THE SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR, NEAR THE SITE WHERE THE GUNILDA WENT DOWN MORE THAN A CENTURY AGO.

NORTON MOTORCYCLES REMAIN ON THE DECK OF THE SS THISTLEGORM, WHICH WAS SUNK IN 1941 BY THE GERMAN LUFTWAFFE.

FUJIKAWA MARU TRUK LAGOON, MICRONESIA Truk Lagoon, an atoll in Micronesia, was ground zero in the battle of the Pacific during World War II and site of Operation Hailstone, an American naval and aerial bombardment that claimed over 40 Japanese warships and hundreds of fighter planes. Choosing the best wreck in Truk Lagoon is a popular argument among divers but most agree that the Fujikawa Maru comes out on top. This armored supply ship sits upright in 110 feet of water and, like the Thistlegorm, is still chock-full of wartime cargo. Especially fascinating are the three Zero fighter planes that rest in the forward cargo hold, an ornate Japanese bathtub, and her six-inch bow gun, still seemingly poised for defense. Recommended Dive Watch:

ROLEX SUBMARINER Since 1954, the Rolex Submariner has been synonymous with diving, worn by countless adventurers. Last year, the brand took the bold step of reinventing the classic no-date Submariner, adding a ceramic bezel insert and a new solid-link steel bracelet with an innovative adjustable clasp. It’s the perfect choice for diving the classic wrecks of Truk Lagoon, where the ceramic bezel will be impervious to scrapes and the blue Chromalight luminescent-coated hands will be visible when you’re checking out those Zeros in the dark cargo hold.

BIANCA C

A DIVER EXPLORES THE TELEGRAPH ON THE DECK OF THE FUJIKAWA MARU, SUNK BY TORPEDO AND BOMBS IN THE PACIFIC THEATER IN 1944.

GRENADA

GENERAL HOYT S. VANDENBERG

Most ships that now lie on the seaﬂoor led unglamorous careers, made famous almost solely by their sinking. This may be why sunken cruise ships are such a draw for divers. Not only are the ships’ former beauty and leisurely purpose a draw, but also the prospect of ﬁnding unique treasure, such as monogrammed china plates and portholes. The most infamous lost luxury liners, such as the Andrea Doria or the Empress of Ireland, lie in deep, cold water, inaccessible to all but the heartiest of divers. But the Bianca C lies in the balmy Caribbean, just off the coast of Grenada, making it far more accessible, and pleasant, to dive.

KEY WEST, FLORIDA Many wreck divers turn up their noses at intentionally sunken ships, considering them unworthy of the title “shipwreck.” But the 520-footlong Hoyt S. Vandenberg is worth making an exception for, no matter how hardened and jaded a wreck diver you are. The “Vandy” led a colorful life prior to her sinking, ﬁrst as a U.S. Navy transport and missiletracking ship and then as a movie prop, where she was made to look like a Russian research ship, complete with Cyrillic lettering on the hull. She was sunk in 2009 ten miles off the coast of Key West, Florida, creating an artiﬁcial reef and a destination for divers.

The Bianca C, which belonged to the Italian Costa Line, caught ﬁre while at anchor in October 1961. Local Grenadians watched from shore as she burned while being towed out to deeper water. Now at rest in 100 feet of water, the wreck, known as the “Titanic of the Caribbean,” provides 600 feet of luxury liner for divers to explore. The top deck swimming pool is a favorite spot to linger, where one can imagine the formerly ﬂoating hotel’s once-proud days cruising the sunny waters.

The Vandenberg makes for a spectacular dive, due in no small part to its accessible depth, warm water, and interesting structure. The wreck sits upright in 140 feet of water, with most of its interesting features starting at only 40 feet. These include massive parabolic antennae, the bridge and the crow’s nest. Holes cut into the sides of the hull allow for penetration to the interior by more experienced divers while her massive rudder rewards those who bottom out at 140 feet.

Recommended Dive Watch:

Breitling SuperOcean Chronograph II

BELL & ROSS BR02 MARINE PHANTOM

Most shipwrecks started life as beasts of burden – hauling freight or going to war. Same too with dive watches, brutish tools built for a singular purpose. But that doesn’t mean they can’t evolve. The new SuperOcean Chronograph II is part of Breitling’s refresh of its legendary SuperOcean diver lineup. It now features a bold, contemporary dial and a grippy rubber-coated bezel to go with its chronometer-certiﬁed movement. Unlike many chronographs, this one can go approx. 1,650 feet deep, which is far deeper than the Bianca C, and indeed far deeper than you’ll ever dive.

The internal rotating bezel on the BR02 Marine Phantom is ideal for exploring a shipwreck since it cannot be inadvertently knocked off its setting. Set your descent marker before you jump off the dive boat and keep track of your dive time while you’re navigating the wreck. And with its black PVD case and stealthy blacked-out hands and dial, the Marine Phantom is the perfect watch to wear to the Miami nightclubs three hours to the north, where you can brag about your “Vandy” exploits. A JELLYFISH FLOATS IN THE SEA OFF THE COAST OF GRENADA, NOT FAR FROM THE WRECK OF THE BIANCA C, KNOWN AS THE “TITANIC OF THE CARIBBEAN.”

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Based in Minneapolis, Jason Heaton covers adventure travel, gear and timepieces, sometimes all at once, for Revolution, GearPatrol.com, HODINKEE.com, and AskMen.com.

THE HOYT S. VANDENBERG WAS PURPOSELY SUNK IN MAY 2009, SEVEN MILES OFF KEY WEST, FLORIDA.

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TIMELESS TIMEPIECES PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT KATO

BLANCPAIN VILLERET ULTRA-SLIM Red gold 40mm case, hand-wound movement, date and small seconds, power-reserve indication, opaline dial, see-through caseback, alligator strap. $19,200 JAEGER LECOULTRE MASTER MEMOVOX Stainless steel 40mm case, automatic movement, date and alarm, silvered dial, alligator strap. $9,900

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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PURE CLASSICISM

MONTBLANC STAR DATE Stainless steel 39mm case, quartz movement, date, black guillochÃ© dial, buffalo-hide strap. $1,660 BAUME & MERCIER HAMPTON Polished and bushed steel 40mm x 21mm case, quartz movement, date, sun satin-finished and opaline silver-colored dial, alligator strap. $2,650

THE ART OF THE MOVEMENT

IWC PORTUGUESE HAND-WOUND VINTAGE Stainless steel 44mm case, hand-wound movement, small seconds, opaline dial, see-through caseback, alligator strap. $9,900

Available at select Tourneau locations nationwide. 800.348.3332

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0:49

WHAT’S IN A NAME? BY ELIZABETH WARNER

Naming a watch is never an easy task. But how did your favorite watches get the monikers they now have? We dig into the stories behind some famous (and lesser-known) watch names. CARTIER TANK

EBEL

Perhaps the best-known anecdote in watch nomenclature belongs to Cartier’s classic Tank. By the time Louis Cartier’s rectangular art-deco masterpiece arrived in 1917, he’d opted to commemorate the Allied military tanks he witnessed helping France during the Great War. Even the signature bracelet on the Tank Française harkens back to the treads of a tank.

EBEL’s distinctive timepieces are easy to spot, whether you’re looking at a Wave, a 1911 or a Beluga. But the story behind the brand’s name is somewhat utilitarian. EBEL is an acronym for the initials of its founders as they appeared when they applied for a Swiss patent in 1911—“Eugène Blum Et Lévy.”

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK The signature octagonal Royal Oak is named for a very speciﬁc tree that once stood in a forest in Shropshire and which served a key role in the English Civil War. In 1651 King Charles II hid from the Roundheads while encamped in the branches of this tree, which would eventually come to be known as The Royal Oak. The English have in turn named several warships, towns, and (of course) pubs after the noble tree.

HUBLOT BIG BANG KING The Big Bang is the perfect name for this substantial watch, which has a hefty 48-millimeter case (thus the “big”). In terms of the “bang,” the watch line represents the company’s history of fusing precious metals, gemstones, carbon ﬁber, tantalum, ceramic, and rubber. Interestingly, Hublot was the ﬁrst luxury watchmaker to introduce the use of a rubber strap with a horological-quality timepiece, which they did more than 30 years ago. In keeping with this marine theme, the name “Hublot” is French for “porthole,” and most of the watch faces are shaped like ship windows.

BREMONT MARTIN-BAKER I AND II To create these models, English watchmaker Bremont teamed up with Martin-Baker, the foremost manufacturer of airplane ejection seats, which is where the sturdy-sounding name is derived from. To qualify to purchase the MBI, you have to have been ejected from a Martin-Baker ejection seat during a ﬂight. However, the MBII is available to the general watch-buying public.

BREMONT HMS VICTORY The HMS Victory is a first-rate ship launched by the British Royal Navy in 1765. It figured heavily in the Battle of Trafalgar as Lord Nelson’s flagship, and it is the oldest naval ship still in commission. This watch is a limited-edition piece, and contains timber and copper from the Victory in each case.

ROLEX If the name Hans Wilsdorf doesn’t ring a bell, it’s because when he formed his now-famous watch company in 1905 with his brother-inlaw, he opted for a name that would be memorable and easy to pronounce in all languages. They settled on “Rolex,” derived from the French phrase horlogerie exquise, meaning “exquisite clockwork” (though some suggest it’s a contraction of “horological excellence”). Whatever the case, it has a nicer ring to it than “Wilsdorf.”

ROLEX OYSTER As legend has it, Wilsdorf was hard at work on a new wristwatch when, at a dinner, he encountered a plate of cocktail oysters that were impossible to open. When it came time to name the world’s ﬁrst waterproof watch, he named it the Oyster in commemoration of the feisty mollusk and its determination to remain airtight.

CARTIER SANTOS Allegedly Louis Cartier’s pal Brazilian ﬂying ace Alberto SantosDumont had complained to the French designer about how tough it was to check your pocket watch while manning the controls of an airplane. Ever the problem solver, Cartier designed a proper wristwatch and named the world’s ﬁrst “hands-free device” for his friend.

PERRELET TURBINE This watch owes its name to that marvel of modern engineering, the jet engine. It features 12 titanium blades that oscillate as the wearer moves and a tapered case that narrows just like an aviation turbine. Even the flush crown lies flat until needed. The result is a striking timepiece that personifies the marriage of aerodynamic design and state-of-the-art craftsmanship, as you’d expect from the company that invented the automatic watch.

IWC AQUATIMER ‘COUSTEAU DIVERS’ HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD OFFICER The Hamilton Watch Company has been a part of American history for over a century, initially regulating the railroads before soldiers and aviators came to rely upon the durable and accurate timepieces (Hamilton was named supplier to the U.S. Armed Forces in 1914). During World War II the company shipped more than a million watches overseas for Allied troops. Thus, this model is named in ﬁtting tribute to the uniforms worn by the ﬁghting men and women of America.

Named to honor the late great French explorer, conservationist, and documentary ﬁlmmaker Jacques Cousteau on the 10th anniversary of his 1997 death, this limited-edition watch features wood from Cousteau’s infamous research vessel Calypso built into the casing.

Author and on-air radio personality Elizabeth Warner is the author of Ditched by Dr. Right (Random House). She’s worked for Time, Entertainment Weekly, BusinessWeek, and Martha Stewart Living, among others. She hosts two weekly radio programs and is a former brand ambassador for Breguet.

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THE LIST STORE LOCATIONS ARIZONA SCOTTSDALE FASHION SQUARE 7014 East Camelback Road, Scottsdale (480) 429-2304 CALIFORNIA

MASSACHUSETTS COPLEY PLACE 100 Huntington Avenue, Boston (617) 267-8463 BURLINGTON MALL 75 Middlesex Turnpike, Burlington (781) 272-8463 NATICK COLLECTION 1245 Worcester Street, Natick (508) 653-8463 NEVADA

SOUTH COAST PLAZA 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa (714) 850-0222

TOURNEAU TIME DOME – THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS 3500 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas (702) 732-8463

FASHION VALLEY MALL 7007 Friars Road, San Diego (619) 296-8463

NEW JERSEY

SOUTH COAST PLAZA

WESTFIELD SAN FRANCISCO CENTRE 845 Market Street, San Francisco (415) 974-1846

WESTFIELD GARDEN STATE PLAZA One Garden State Plaza, Paramus (201) 368-8463

SANTANA ROW 355 Santana Row, San Jose (408) 244-8463

NEW YORK

COSTA MESA, CALIFORNIA

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles (310) 553-8463

TOURNEAU TIMEMACHINE 12 East 57th Street, New York (212) 758-7300

FLORIDA

MADISON AVENUE 510 Madison Avenue, New York (212) 758-5830

AVENTURA MALL 19575 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura (305) 932-2280

THE SHOPS AT COLUMBUS CIRCLE 10 Columbus Circle, New York (212) 823-9425

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS 9700 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour (305) 866-4312

THE WESTCHESTER 125 Westchester Avenue, White Plains (914) 397-2301

MERRICK SHOPS 320 San Lorenzo Avenue, Coral Gables (305) 448-6878

ROOSEVELT FIELD MALL 630 Old Country Road, Garden City (516) 873-0209

WATERSIDE SHOPS AT PELICAN BAY 5495 Tamiami Trail N, Naples (239) 591-1342

WALT WHITMAN MALL 160 Walt Whitman Road, Huntington Station (631) 427-2649

PALM BEACH WORTH AVENUE 175 Worth Avenue, Palm Beach (561) 832-8812

PENNSYLVANIA

THE GARDENS MALL 3101 PGA Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens (561) 694-6028

THE PLAZA AT KING OF PRUSSIA 160 North Gulph Road, King of Prussia (610) 491-8801

GEORGIA

TEXAS

LENOX SQUARE MALL 3393 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta (404) 760-1883

GALLERIA DALLAS 13350 North Dallas Parkway, Dallas (972) 661-1503

HAWAII

THE GALLERIA 5015 Westheimer Road, Houston (713) 871-8282

ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER 2301 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu (808) 922-4111

THE SHOPS AT LA CANTERA 15900 La Cantera Parkway, San Antonio (210) 694-5654

ILLINOIS

VIRGINIA

WATER TOWER PLACE 835 N Michigan Avenue, Chicago (312) 266-7600

FASHION CENTRE AT PENTAGON CITY 1100 South Hayes Street, Arlington (703) 414-8463

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Tourneau’s newest concept store is located in the luxurious South Coast Plaza, an elegant shopping destination 45 minutes south of Los Angeles. The sophisticated modernist space is designed to make the process of watch shopping more accessible, inviting, and interactive. Through curated displays, expert assistance, educational tools, and technological innovation, Tourneau helps customers discover the remarkable world of ﬁne timepieces. The store, which departs from the traditional “behind the counter” relationship between client and sales professional in favor of a more personalized experience, also features a freestanding Breitling boutique and a Patek Philippe corner.

SERVICE & REPAIR Most mechanical watches require a full maintenance every three to ﬁve years. Tourneau has the largest factoryauthorized watch service center in the United States and includes a fully staffed service department in every store. To keep every watch working in excellent condition, we offer complimentary estimates on all domestic repairs. Every Tourneau location provides convenient in-store maintenance and repair services, including complimentary battery replacement for all timepieces purchased at Tourneau. For more sophisticated needs, our factoryauthorized watch service center is equipped to repair, rebuild and restore every watch with expert precision.

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