To Napa’s restaurant workers, who nourished not just our bodies, but also our souls during a most difficult couple of years—and have continued to do so since.
No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the copyright owner or the publisher.
Published by Pediment Publishing, a division of The Pediment Group, Inc. www.pediment.com • Printed in Canada
Book design by DESIGNTHIS!
Photography by Alexander Rubin
Recipe editing by Deirdre Bourdet
Wine pairings selected by Desmond Echavarrie
Most wares by NBC Pottery
About the Author
Jess Lander moved to Napa in 2010 and is the wine reporter for the San Francisco Chronicle. Her work has also appeared in publications like Wine Enthusiast, Decanter, Eating Well, Afar, Lonely Planet, Eater SF and others. In 2021, Jess published the first edition of The Essential Napa Valley Cookbook and raised over $100,000 for local restaurant workers impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. For recommendations on the best places to eat, stay, and play in Wine Country, follow Jess on Instagram at @willwrite4wine.
16 Meatball Stuffed Peppers, Ciccio
18 Onion Dip, Charlie’s Napa Valley
20 Meatballs, Pizzeria Tra Vigne
22 Lobster Corn Dogs, Charlie Palmer Steak
24 Socca, Compline Wine Bar & Restaurant
26 Crab Fondue, Brix Restaurant & Gardens
28 Brandada, Zuzu
30 Shrimp Cocktail, Cole’s Chop House
32 | Sides
34 Greens & Beans, Stateline Road Smokehouse
36 Broccoli Slaw, Contimo
38 Beet Salad, Press Restaurant
40 Very Adult Mac & Cheese, Market Restaurant
41 Cheese Biscuits, Solbar at Solage
42 Fiscalini Pearl Tapioca, La Toque
43 Grilled Peach Condimento, Oenotri
44 | Mains
46 Sumac and Za’atar Roasted Chicken, TORC
48 Cauliflower Tacos, Southside
50 Beer Can Chicken, Bounty Hunter Wine Bar & Smokin’ BBQ
52 Lamb Shanks, Farmstead
54 Cheese and Mushroom Risotto, Cook St. Helena
55 Mighty Meatloaf, Mustards Grill
56 Fried Chicken, Boon Fly Café
58 G&G Burger, Goose & Gander
60 Pesto Tagliatelle, Oenotri
62 Ahi Tuna Burger, Gott’s Roadside
64 Moules au Cidre, Bistro Jeanty
65 Pork Ribs, The Charter Oak
66 Gumbo Yaya, Evangeline
68 Seared Salmon Filet, Bistro Don Giovanni
70 Pan Seared Halibut, Angèle Restaurant
72 Korean Short Ribs, Kitchen Door
74 Ricotta Gnocchi, Pizzeria Tra Vigne
76 Fish Tacos, Napa Palisades Saloon
78 | Sweets
80 Almost Cheesecake, Lovina
82 Chocolate Rads, Model Bakery
84 Chocolate Soufflé, La Toque
86 | Cocktails
88 The Bee’s Sneeze, The Fink
90 Jalisco Royale, Chispa Bar
92 Incognito, Evangeline
94 Bali Spice Old-Fashioned, Goose & Gander
Introduction
In the fall of 2017, a few weeks after my in-laws lost their home in the Atlas Peak Fire, we took them out to dinner at Mustards Grill, the king of Napa comfort food. It was meant as a much-needed distraction to take their minds off their predicament and heartache for at least a few hours. But naturally, all we did at dinner was talk about the fire.
When it came time for the bill, the number at the bottom read zero. The staff had overheard our conversations and decided to cover our meal. It was one of the most generous acts from a group of strangers I’ve ever personally experienced and it still brings me to tears writing about it now.
I thought about this dinner a lot when the COVID-19 pandemic started. Mustards was there for us when we needed it most, and now in its time of need, how could I return the favor? How could I help all of the local restaurants survive this?
I ordered a lot of takeout, and once allowed, dined outdoors. Food was one of few comforts in the day-today monotony of sheltering in place. I devoured countless buckets of Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc fried chicken and spent many long, maskless lunches in Bistro Don Giovanni’s garden. But it didn’t feel like enough.
And then when the Glass Fire came a few months later and took our home with it, Napa Valley restaurants once again came to the rescue, providing convenient, hot meals during a time when “What’s for dinner?” was of the lowest priority. Later, we began to heal over good food and good wine with friends at restaurants like Compline, Press, Angele, and The Charter Oak.
This desire to help, to return the favor, grew every time a friend lost their job. It grew with each new announcement of another beloved restaurant closing— like the stellar Miminashi and then ABC Bakery, my old breakfast haunt from when I first moved to Napa over a decade ago. Eventually, I settled on creating The Essential Napa Valley Cookbook—full of 33 recipes from Napa Valley restaurants—and donated 100% of the proceeds to our community in need. I’m proud to say that we sold 5,000 books and raised over $100,000, which we distributed directly to restaurant workers.
It’s been three years since we released the cookbook and Napa Valley is on the rebound. Tourism is starting to return and all but one of the restaurants in the first edition of the cookbook remain open (RIP Gran Electrica). Yet the desire to support these businesses and the people behind them hasn’t waned. I jumped at the opportunity to release a second edition with the help of Pediment Publishing; the cookbook is largely the same, but we made small changes and added six recipes from some old and new spots.
I hope you enjoy this taste of Napa Valley at home and that you’ll plan a visit in person as soon as you are able.
Jess Lander
Creator of The Essential Napa Valley Cookbook
Foreword
It is an honor to have the opportunity to tip my hat to our fantastic chefs in the Napa Valley and to help support everyone that works in our vibrant restaurant industry.
Reflecting on the dramatic evolution of Napa’s physical and culinary landscapes over the years is amazing. In the late 1960s, Americans had not yet awakened to the pleasures their palates could bring, and Napa was just another small, sleepy agricultural community. There were fewer than 25 wineries and fruit and nut orchards outnumbered vineyards.
In the early ’70s, things began to change. More vineyards were planted in Napa Valley and a few more wineries began to dot the landscape. With wine leading the way, Americans started to discover the joys of aroma and flavor. Believing that wine and food enrich life as well as one another, I wanted to impress visiting VIPs by showcasing our wines alongside a good meal. But where to take them? At that point—and I know this is hard to believe today—our valley was a culinary desert. There were no great restaurants here at that time. So, what to do?
Luckily for me, a small group of enterprising women got together and shared their cooking techniques with each other, spawning the Napa Valley Cooking Class, which quickly found a home at Trefethen Family Vineyards. Over more than 20 years, we hosted some great names in the culinary world, and through the Cooking Class, I had the honor and delight to meet acclaimed chefs such as Julia Child, James Beard, Thomas Keller, Cindy Pawlcyn, Michael Chiarello, Donna Scala, and Christopher Kostow, to name just a few. Many of them have continued to create and contribute to Napa’s restaurant scene.
Today, Napa Valley has one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in the world, and the wines made here are consistently recognized as amongst the world’s best. It has been incredibly enjoyable to watch local chefs develop their confidence and a unique style, emphasizing the quality and freshness of what we produce right here in our valley.
Be it fine dining or casual fare, wine and food bring people together, contributing to one of life’s greatest and most accessible pleasures, and there is no doubt that Napa’s restaurants and wineries have benefited from each other. We are integral allies, drawing people to the Napa Valley to enjoy great wine and food in beautiful surroundings, served by gracious people.
It is the latter, the courteous, thoughtful people that take care of us at our favorite restaurants that we honor throughout this book. Hopefully these recipes will bring back wonderful memories of a trip or tempt you to come and enjoy Napa’s epicurean treasure trove of great wine and food.
The challenge for me today is not deciding which dish to serve my guests, but deciding which restaurant to take them to. Such a dilemma!
Cheers,
Janet Trefethen , Proprietor of Trefethen
Family Vineyards
Wine Pairings
A Napa Valley cookbook would not be complete without wine pairings and so the recipes in this book were carefully paired with wines from Napa Valley producers. These selections were made by Napa-based Master Sommelier Desmond Echavarrie and we hope you’ll consider also supporting the wineries in this by purchasing their wines or visiting their tasting rooms on your next trip.
Though I’m not a native, my love affair with Napa Valley began early. At twenty, I endeavored to learn as much as I could about food and wine. I poured through every cookbook and wine book available. Visiting Napa for the first time before I was legally of age, I always dreamt that I might someday live here. Until I am reading these words myself from a published copy, I won’t actually believe that I contributed to such an important cookbook celebrating the region I love and have called home for over a decade.
Pairing wines with the cuisine of some of the most celebrated chefs in the world has been the great adventure of my career. I began bussing tables at fourteen but eventually weaseled my way into some of the best restaurants in the nation working with Michelin-Starred chefs and grand, award-winning wine programs.
Moving to Napa Valley to join the wine team at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in the Spring of 2011 was truly a dream come true. In that little old house in Yountville, I had no choice but to become a food and wine pairing ninja. Every service, each sommelier creates a fully personalized and custom-tailored wine experience for every reservation. Twenty tables, times eleven courses, for a unique menu, six times a week! It was the absolute pinnacle of wine service. The perfect place to hone the craft of the sommelier.
In the summer of 2012, nine years after sitting for my introductory sommelier exam, I was finally able to pass the Master Sommelier blind tasting and received my diploma. Until my wedding day six years later, it remained the happiest day of my life. Over the years, I have developed a few guiding principles for food and wine pairing that I am honored to share.
WGTGT — “ What grows together goes together.” Often through hundreds of years of evolution, humans have figured out what food is best paired with indigenous grapes resulting in classic styles of wine that pair perfectly with the cuisine of the region.
Tannins Need Fat — Wines with significant tannin structure like Cabernet Sauvignon or Nebbiolo need food that is rich and fatty, like a well-marbled steak or a creamy risotto. The astringency of tannin helps cut through the fatty texture and creates a very harmonious and always decadent consumption experience.
Salt Loves Sweet — Salty foods have historically always paired well with sweet wines. Everything from Sauternes and foie gras to Champagne and caviar work well together because these contrasting flavors create a balance and harmony for the palate. Since wines are not inherently salty, they usually serve as the sweet component in this equation, like a classic port with salty blue cheese.
These concepts and years of playing the food and wine memory game have informed my choices for the incredible dishes featured in this cookbook. You may not love each pairing or dish featured on these pages and that is perfectly fine because I didn’t make the dish or the wine. In all seriousness, it is important to remember that when cooking and drinking wine, experimentation is the key and having fun is required.
Reflecting on the enormous challenges we have all faced in recent years, I am inspired by how resilient the Napa Valley has been through a global pandemic and devastating fires. As a community, we rely on the support and friendship of our extended community of wine lovers across the country and around the globe. This cookbook is a celebration of our little place in the world. Thank you for sharing in it.
Master Sommelier & Founder of Scale Wine Group
Starters
The first impression, these starters will set the tone for an incredible evening. They’ll also steal the show at your family potluck and inspire fancy, new traditions— say, crab fondue on New Year’s Eve.
Meatball Stuffed Peppers
Onion Dip
Meatballs
Lobster Corn Dogs
Socca
Crab Fondue
Brandada
Shrimp Cocktail
PAIRS WITH CITRUS MARTINI
Onion Dip
Servings: 15 | Charlie’s Napa Valley, St. Helena
“Our caramelized onion dip is a nod to the classic recipe we grew up enjoying at every family gathering, thanks to our grandma. Served with our potato skins or your favorite bag of salt and vinegar potato chips, this dip is the perfect pre-dinner snack or party pleaser. Pair it with a citrus martini for maximum enjoyment.”
CHARLIE’S NAPA VALLEY CHEF-OWNER ELLIOT BELL
INGREDIENTS
(Yields 6 cups)
10 tbsp. onion flakes, toasted
2½ tbsp. beef bouillon
(Charlie’s recommends Knorr’s)
3½ tbsp. granulated onion
½ tsp. ground celery seed
2½ tbsp. granulated sugar
½ tbsp. finely ground black pepper
1 tbsp. granulated garlic
¼ tbsp. kosher salt
5¼ cups sour cream
6 tbsp. buttermilk
Caviar (optional)
POTATO SKINS
10 russet potatoes, medium-sized
1 gal. peanut oil
Malt vinegar powder, as needed
Kosher salt, as needed
STEPS
Heat oven to 350°F. Poke holes in the potatoes with a fork and bake on a bed of salt for 40 minutes. Potatoes should be just cooked through, but not completely soft. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop out the centers, leaving about a ¼-inch around the edges. (Save the discarded interiors for mashed potatoes.)
Pour the peanut oil in a large pot on the stove over medium heat. Place the potato skins in the room-temperature oil and slowly raise the heat to 325°F. Remove the skins from the pot with a spider skimmer or slotted spoon and place on a cooling rack. Place in the freezer until they’re almost frozen. Remove from the freezer, cut each skin into 8 pieces and then place back in the freezer until at least slightly frozen, about 1 hour. These can be made ahead of time and reserved in the freezer until you’re ready to use them.
Bring the frying oil temperature back up to 350°F. Place the skins back in the pot and fry for approximately 2 minutes or until golden brown. Remove with the spider and place the fried skins in a bowl. Sprinkle generously with malt vinegar powder and a small amount of salt.
Thoroughly combine the onion dip ingredients in a bowl, except for the sour cream and buttermilk. Set aside. In another bowl, thoroughly combine the sour cream and buttermilk until smooth. Combine the two mixtures and serve with the potato skins. Optional: To make this a true Napa Valley dish, top the onion dip with caviar.
CHARLIE’S NAPA VALLEY, ST. HELENA
Socca with Arrabbiata Sauce
Servings: 4 | Compline Wine Bar & Restaurant, Napa
“Socca is a Mediterranean staple and a versatile vegetarian dish that works with a wide variety of wines. We like serving it with seasonal, flavorful accompaniments, like arrabiata sauce in the summer and early fall, or mole in the wintertime. You can pair it with Mediterranean reds, like Barbera when it’s warm, or Gigondas when you want something weightier in the colder months.”
CO-OWNER RYAN STETINS
INGREDIENTS
ARRABBIATA SAUCE
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
8 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp. crushed chili flakes
( or more, if you want more spice )
3–4 lbs. ripe Roma tomatoes, ½″ dice
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ cup tomato paste
10 basil leaves, torn
1 tsp. fresh oregano, minced
SOCCA
1¾ cup chickpea flour
¼ cup nutritional yeast
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
½ tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. fresh oregano, minced
2 cups cold water
1 cup fresh corn kernels
( yellow or white )
1 cup zucchini, ½″ dice
½ cup jingle bell peppers
( or other sweet pepper ), ½″ dice
½ cup spinach, roughly chopped
2 tbsp. shallots, minced
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Parmesan cheese for garnish
STEPS
To make the sauce, heat the olive oil on medium-low in a large saucepan. Add the minced garlic and crushed chili flakes and cook until fragrant, 3–4 minutes. Take care not to brown the garlic, as it will make the sauce bitter.
Add the diced tomatoes, crushed chili flakes, salt, and tomato paste to the garlic. Cook low and slow for about 25 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes to make sure that the sauce is not sticking to the pan. The tomatoes will be chunky and broken down. After 25 minutes, add the torn basil and minced oregano. Adjust the final seasoning with kosher salt and more chili flakes if desired.
While the sauce cooks, combine the chickpea flour, nutritional yeast, baking powder, garlic powder, kosher salt, and fresh oregano in a large mixing bowl. Whisk in all of the water. The batter will be runny. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the corn, zucchini, peppers, shallots, and spinach.
In an 8″ nonstick pan, heat 2 tbsp. olive oil on medium heat until hot, about 2–3 minutes. Scoop 1 cup of the socca batter into the hot pan and cook for 4 minutes. Keep an eye on the heat; if it’s too hot it can burn. Flip the socca over using a spatula and continue to cook for an additional 4 minutes.
Test that the socca is cooked through by making a small cut in the middle and checking for the raw batter. Once the socca is cooked, serve with warm arrabbiata sauce and a light grating of Parmesan cheese.
PAIRS WITH REVERIE WINERY BARBERA
PAIRS WITH TREFETHEN FAMILY VINEYARDS DRY RIESLING
Cauliflower Tacos
Servings: 4–6 | Southside, Napa
“At Southside we create interesting, vegetable-focused versions of California comfort foods, and what’s more iconic than fish tacos from Baja California? For this recipe, we simply substitute cauliflower for fish.”
— SOUTHSIDE OWNER AND CHEF MORGAN ROBINSON
INGREDIENTS
SALSA BAJA
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
1 tbsp. lime juice
1 tbsp. Tapatio hot sauce
Kosher salt to taste
TEMPURA BATTER
1 cup all-purpose flour
⅔ cup corn starch
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
½ can ( 6 oz.) Mexican beer, plus more if needed Kosher salt to taste
TACOS
1 head of cauliflower
1 quart grapeseed oil
Tajín seasoning spice to taste
Kosher salt to taste
12 corn tortillas
16 oz. guacamole
2 cups shaved cabbage ( red & green )
6 radishes, cut into matchsticks
Bunch of cilantro sprigs
3 fresh limes
STEPS
Whisk all Salsa Baja ingredients in a bowl until thoroughly combined, and refrigerate until needed.
To make the tempura batter, whisk the flour, corn starch, baking soda, and baking powder in a bowl, then whisk in the beer until thoroughly combined. Season with kosher salt. The consistency should look like thin pancake batter. Add more beer if needed.
Break the cauliflower into bite-size pieces. In a large saucepan, heat the oil on medium heat until a drop of batter sizzles on contact. Dip the cauliflower pieces in the tempura batter and then drop into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown for approximately 4 minutes. If needed, fry the cauliflower in two batches. Remove cauliflower from oil, season with salt and Tajín, and drain on a paper towel.
Heat tortillas on a skillet and place on a plate. Spread guacamole evenly on tortillas and add fried cauliflower, then shaved cabbage and radishes. Drizzle the tacos with the Salsa Baja, and top with a sprig of cilantro and squeeze of fresh lime.
Tagliatelle with
Basil Pesto, Pine Nuts and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Servings: 2 | Oenotri, Napa
“These pesto and pasta recipes can be enjoyed year-round to create one dish, or you can enjoy them separately—the pesto with a protein like chicken or fresh garden veggies and the pasta with another sauce of your choosing. But together, this dish is simple to execute and highlights the magic of just a few ingredients. The pine nuts give the pesto a nutty texture and body, while the basil, garlic, and Meyer lemon give it flavor and zest, making it the perfect entree or side whether served hot or cold.”
— OENOTRI OWNER TYLER RODDE
INGREDIENTS
PASTA
1 cup 00 flour
1 egg, plus 2 egg yolks
1 tsp. olive oil
A few sprinkles of water, as needed Pasta machine ( or attachment )
PESTO
3 cups basil, blanched in lightly-salted water
3 oz. pine nuts
1 garlic clove
1 tsp. salt
Juice of ½ a small Meyer lemon
6 oz. olive oil
2 oz. cold water
ADDTIONAL
3 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
Additional Parmigiano-Reggiano for garnish
Fresh basil leaves, torn
STEPS
Make a well in the center of the flour. Add the egg, yolks, and olive oil to the well. Using a fork, beat the eggs and oil together and incorporate it into the “walls” of the flour until all ingredients are fully combined; you may need to add a few sprinkles of water. Wrap the dough and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Blanch the basil leaves in boiling, lightly salted water then transfer to an ice bath; once cool, drain and pat dry with towels. Toast the pine nuts in the oven at 325°F until lightly golden brown. Do not overdo it, as the nuts will become bitter. Using the side of a chef’s knife or a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic with the salt to create a smooth paste. Place the garlic paste, the blanched basil, two-thirds of the toasted pine nuts, and the Meyer lemon juice in a blender. Turn on the blender and then pour in the olive oil. Add cold water and blend until the consistency is smooth. If it separates, add a touch more water. Set pesto aside.
Unwrap the dough, knead it for 10 minutes, and fold it over several times to make sure all of the ingredients are incorporated. Cut the dough in half. Start running the first half through the pasta machine until it’s thin enough to cut into noodles. Place the noodles in a “nest” on a baking sheet that’s lightly covered with semolina flour to prevent them from sticking together. Repeat with the second half.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. The water should taste like the ocean; use 2 oz. of sea salt for 6 quarts of water. In a large saucepan, bring the pesto to bubble. When the pasta water is boiling, cook the pasta until al dente (2–3 minutes), then use tongs to transfer the cooked noodles to the pesto, and toss with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Finish with torn basil leaves and more shaved cheese, if desired. Top with leftover pine nuts to serve.
PAIRS WITH MATTHIASSON WHITE WINE NAPA VALLEY
Sweets
An encore, because these sweet treats offer an unforgettable finale and are always worth “saving room.”
Almost Cheesecake
Chocolate Rads
Chocolate Soufflé
A lmost C heesecake
Servings: 8 | Lovina, Calistoga
“A local’s favorite in a historic home, Lovina is well known in Calistoga for our gluten-free and vegan options. This no-bake ‘cheesecake’ is a favorite among the plant-based diet crowd. Paired with our Impossible Sausage Lasagna, it’s a fantastic guilt-free meal.”
— LOVINA OWNER JENNIFER BENNETT
NOTE: YOU NEED TO START THIS RECIPE 48 HOURS AHEAD, BUT THE ADVANCE PLANNING IS WORTH IT!
INGREDIENTS
FILLING
3⅛ heaping cups ( 472 g.) raw unsalted cashews, soaked overnight in water
⅔ cup ( 225 g.) maple syrup
⅔ scant cups (137 g.) unsweetened coconut milk
5 tbsp. plus ½ tsp. ( 70 g.) cocoa butter, melted
2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. ( 25 g.) vanilla paste, or vanilla extract if you can’t find paste ½ tsp. salt
CRUST
2 cups ( 300 g.) chopped dates ( pits removed before measuring )
1½ cups (180 g.) raw walnut pieces
¾ cup (100 g.) unsalted macadamia nuts, toasted ½ tsp. salt
TOPPING
1 can coconut milk, chilled overnight Zest of 2 limes
ADDITIONAL
8 (6 oz.) ramekins or 1 (8″) springform pan
STEPS
Soak the cashews 48 hours before you plan to serve the cheesecake. Make the filling and crust the day before you plan to serve, so you can chill the cheesecake overnight. Put the can of coconut milk for the whipped topping in the fridge overnight as well.
To make the filling, blend all ingredients in a high-powered blender (like a Vitamix) until smooth and creamy. For the crust, pulse macadamia nuts and walnuts in a food processor and then remove to a side bowl. Pulse the dates in the processor until a ball loosely forms, then add the nuts back and pulse until combined.
Pack the crust into individual ramekins or a large springform pan. Pour filling into the crust, smoothing the top with a spatula, and refrigerate overnight. Two hours before service, open the can of chilled coconut milk and discard any clear liquid. Whip the chilled coconut milk solids until fluffy and light, and set aside. Serve cheesecake topped with a dollop of whipped coconut milk and freshly grated lime zest.
