Prunus

Cherries, plums and apricots. Prunus is the tree that gives so many fruits to the world after a brief period of breathtaking bloom. Peaches and nectarines (which are a type of peach) also come from the genus Prunus in Ontario and BC and almonds grow in warmer climes. If you garden for strictly ornamental reasons, there are flowering cherries and plums available that don’t produce fruit.

Canada has a few native cherries and plums. Chokecherries (P. virginiana) and black cherries (P. serotina) are from the prunus genre, though both are too sour for most people to eat out of hand. They are delicious cooked with sugar into jams and pies. For plums there are the Canada plum (P. nigra) and the American plum (P. americana), which are quite lovely when fully ripe. They also make fantastic pies, jams and other sweets. Sand cherries (P. pumila) are native to much of Canada as well and edible, though not many people bother. There are some recipes online. Planting

All fruit trees should be planted in a position where they will get plenty of sun. If you cannot get full sun exposure, choose an eastern exposure first, western second. It isn’t a good idea to plant a fruit tree to the north of a building where it will be in shadow for most or all of the day.

They are not too fussy about soil pH and like average moisture and humus. When you plant them, keep them watered well for the first year, while they get established. Choose a site sheltered from the wind.

Pruning

When it comes to pruning, there are several websites with articles specific to prunus trees. Make sure you are consulting a Canadian one because requirements can differ between Canadian Zone 2 and USDA Zone 8.

In general, though, except for peaches and sweet cherries, you will prune your prunus in the very late winter, while the trees are still bare. This will prevent them from putting energy into branches you’re going to cut off without leaving the cut wound un-healed for too long. With peaches and sweet cherries, the cut wounds will not heal below 15 degrees Celsius, so you should prune when tempera-

Prunus virginiana ‘Chokecherry’. tures are in this range.

You can prune in spring or summer, which will slow the growth of your tree. This can be good if your tree is already at or beyond the size you want it to be.

You should never prune in fall unless it is to be rid of dead or diseased wood. You can and should prune dead or diseased branches out at any time.

On a new tree, prune to direct growth. Let it grow as it is for the first six to nine months until it is late winter. First, get rid of all branches less than three feet above the soil. Then choose main branches growing outward, at least 12 inches apart, going east, west, north and south. (The directions are not specific; you can choose branches going north-west, south-east, northeast and south-west, or whatever. Just choose your lowest good branch above three feet and alternate directions from there.)

Look for good branches with a wide crotch, the spot where the branch joins the trunk. A wide crotch is one that is more than 35 degrees from the trunk. A crotch of less than 35 degrees will be weak.

Cut off all the branches between these main branches. This will keep the tree open, allowing sunlight to get in.

There will probably be a leader branch or trunk on a young tree. Let

Photo by Glysiak.

‘Valor’ plum. ‘Pembina’ plum.

‘Stanley’ plum. this grow until the tree is tall enough for you, then cut it back to the first lateral branch.

Plums

Plums in Canada tend to be descended from the Canadian natives. European plums are more blue or purple and meatier. You can grow the European plums here too. The thing to remember is that most plums descended from Canadian natives require a Canadian native to fertilize them. European plums cannot be fertilized by Canadian plums but aren’t too fussy about which Europeans fertilize them. Asian plums are a whole other kettle of fish, each one requiring specific pollinators.

Recommended plums

‘Pembina’ is probably the mostgrown plum in Western Canada. It is thin-skinned and red on the outside, yellow inside. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 2.

‘Brookred’ has rosy-red skin and yellow flesh. It is good for eating out of hand, but the skin is sour and the sourness intensifies when cooked. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 3, but try it in Zone 2.

‘Brookgold’ is yellow inside and out, with delicate skin. It’s sweet for eating out of hand but will can fairly well. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 2.

‘La Crescent’ looks like a cross between a plum and an apricot and tastes a little like it too! Great for all uses and makes lovely jam. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 4.

‘Patterson’ is another red-skinned, yellow-flesh tree but it takes a weeping form. Sweet and delicious, but better for jam than pie. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 2.

‘Black Ice’ is a big plum with red flesh and dark skin. Very sweet cross with a cherry plum. Requires wild plum for pollination, either P. nigra or P. americana. Zone 4.

‘Valor’ is a European plum that is excellent for fresh eating. Big and violet

‘Evans’ cherry.

Scan here for a link to our delicious plum streusel cake recipe!

https://localgardener.net/plum-cake/

‘Scout’ apricot. ‘Harrow Diamond’ peach.

Scan here for a link to our delicious cherry pie recipe!

https://localgardener.net/cherry-pie/

blue. Requires one of several plums, including ‘Stanley’ or ‘Violette’, for cross-pollination. Zone 5.

‘Violette’ is another European that is oblong and blue-black in colour. The flesh is greenish-yellow. Requires cross-pollination by ‘Valor’ or ‘Stanley’. Zone 5.

‘Stanley’ is a third European plum. It is the classic blue plum you see. Has yellow flesh. It is self-fertile but does better with another European, such as ‘Valor’ or ‘Violette’, for cross-pollination. Zone 6.

Cherries

Europeans had two kinds of cherries, sour (P. cerasus) and sweet (P. avium). The sour cherries are all selffertile—yay! The sweet cherries are sometimes self-fertile, but they are less cold-hardy than the sour.

When you’re thinking about planting cherries, look for a spot that is sheltered from the winds while still getting plenty of sun. If you want to push climate zones with cherries, be prepared for failure and celebrate your successes heartily.

Recommended sour cherries

‘Evans’ is a dark red sour cherry that will get sweeter if they’re left on the tree longer. Developed in Alberta by Dr. Ieuan Evans. Self-fertile. Zone 3. ‘Romeo’ and ‘Juliet’ are two of the Romance series of cherries developed at the University of Saskatchewan. They are descended from European sour cherries (P. cerasus) crossed with Siberian Mongolian cherries, resulting in these very hardy and quite sweet cherries. They only continue to be called sour cherries because of their parentage. Self-fertile. Zone 2.

‘Montmorency’ is the bright red sour cherry you’re probably buying at the farmers market. Self-fertile. Zone 4.

Recommended sweet cherries

‘Black Tartarian’ is dark and flavourful, growing on a tree that can reach 30 feet tall. The taste is truly exceptional. Requires cross-pollination from ‘Lapins’ or another sweet cherry that blooms at the same time. Zone 5.

‘Lapins’ is full-flavoured and mahogany coloured. It has largely replaced ‘Bing’ as a favourite. Selffertile. Zone 4.

Apricots

Yes, you can grow apricots in Alberta and Manitoba, and get fruit in some years. Originally, apricots were from P. armeniaca, but there are fruits from P. mandshurica, from northern China, that work well. The trees are hardy to Zone 2 or 3, but they will blossom at the slightest hint of a thaw, so the flowers are often done in by a subsequent frost.

Recommended apricots

‘Scout’ comes from the Morden Research Station in Manitoba, so it’s a good place to start if you’re in a cool zone. The fruits are blushed with red. It is semi-self-fertile, so for best fruit production, get a ‘Debbie’s Gold’ as well. Zone 3.

‘Debbie’s Gold’ doesn’t have the red blush of ‘Scout’, but it is very sweet with no stringiness. It was developed by Aubin Nurseries in Manitoba. Selffertile, but why not plant a ‘Scout’ as well? Zone 3.

‘Precious’ comes from a number of Russian trees brought to Ontario around 1900. The fruit is thickskinned and small but sweet and the pit contains an edible almond. Selffertile. Zone 4.

Peaches and nectarines

Peaches are probably best left to southern Ontario. The ones we list are hardy to Zone 5. If you’re growing peaches in lower zones, tell us about it! Recommended peaches and nectarines

‘Harrow Diamond’ peach is yellowfleshed and the earliest to harvest. Freestone when fully ripe. Self-fertile. Zone 5.

‘Reliance’ peach is medium-sized and yellow-green covered with a flush. Yellow-fleshed and free-stone. Selffertile. Zone 5.

‘Hardired’ nectarine is on the larger side with good texture and flavour. Has showy pink flowers! Self-fertile. Zone 5. h

Scan here for a link to our delicious peach cobbler recipe!

https://localgardener.net/peach-cobbler/