Penn Appetit
ISSUE 5 • FALL 2009
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
fall 2009 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Emma Morgenstern LAYOUT EDITORS
Olivia Coffey Brynn Shepherd PHOTOGRAPHY EDITORS
Michael Chien Kendall Haupt Rachel Stone
Dear Penn Appétit Readers and Eaters, As a kid, I resorted to bread whenever I didn’t like my dinner options. A friend’s mom was serving steak and potatoes? I’d take the white rolls with butter instead. I didn’t care about rudeness or being dubbed picky. I just needed food within my comfort zone, and bread and butter would always firmly fall there. In August, however, regular old bread became forbidden. I was diagnosed with Celiac’s disease—an intolerance for the gluten protein found in wheat, rye, and barley—and have eaten gluten-free since. This disease
PUBLICITY CHAIRS
Courtney Brown Maria Pellegrini TREASURERS
Susan Luo Elise Dihlmann-Malzer BLOG EDITORS
Celine Kosian Maria Pellegrini STORY EDITORS Amber Alhadeff Melissa Braff Maura Goldstein Khánh-Anh Lê Karuna Meda
sucks, but that’s as bad as it will get. It won’t ever cause me serious suffering since my minor intestinal dam-
Marianne O’Brien
age is reversible. There are infinite ways to work around gluten when I cook or eat out. Gluten-free options
COPY EDITORS
aren’t always suitable “substitutions” for the normal stuff—good pizza is hard to find—but most vegeta-
Elise Dihlmann-Malzer
Melody Chan
bles, fruits, meats, dairy products, and legumes, plus grains like rice and quinoa, are naturally gluten-free.
Becca Kaplan
After reading the articles in this issue of Penn Appétit, I’ve realized I’m not the only one experiencing
Becka Lef koe
change in my relationship with food. This happens in the most literal sense, as in Yaanik Desai’s move to carnivorism (page 7). Zahav Chef Michael Solomonov went from refusing to eat tomato sauce on pizza to becoming a world-renowned chef, as we learn in Olivia Coffey’s interview (page 22). Karuna Meda takes us through the perceptual and culinary shifts of immigrants, relating the history of hybrid cuisines around the globe (page 10). David Winchell shows us how a meal at Per Se rocked his preconceived notions of culi-
Jordan Kay
WRITERS Shiri Bogomolny Melody Chan Patrick Chung Olivia Coffey Yaanik Desai Maura Goldstein Victoria Johnston Karuna Meda Elizabeth O’Brien
nary achievement and attention (page 5).
Jamie Png
So instead of evaluating my new diet as a bummer, I can just see it as a change, one that allows me to
Timothy Sakhuja Calder Silcox Andy Tan
expand my creativity and fit in with the hipster food blogging crowd. Grab your favorite snack—a gluten-
David Winchell
free cookie, a piece of beef jerky, pizza without the sauce—and enjoy reading about our shifting attitudes
PHOTOGRAPHERS Michael Chien
towards food.
Olivia Coffey Elizabeth Cunningham Maggie Edkins Alice Gao Kendall Haupt Christiana Hay
Emma Morgenstern, Editor-in-Chief
Brynn Shepherd Rachel Stone Andy Tan Zachary Wasserman
Penn Appétit is a student-run semesterly magazine for all types of food writing. Look for our next issue in the Spring of 2010. Our website, www . pennappetit . com , has information about our organization as well as an electronic version of the magazine.
BUSINESS STAFF Charlotte Crowley Susan Luo Eric Yoshida Alphonse Tam Kelly Newman Caroline Murray
Our food blog, www . pennappetit . com / blog , features writing and photos about all kinds of food and food-related topics. The blog is updated daily by Penn-affiliated writers and photographers. To get involved or for advertising inquiries, email the editor at pennappetit @ gmail . com .
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penn appetit • fall 2009
Kate Wiber LAYOUT STAFF Jeena Choi Kaitlin Pollock Nana Adwoa Sey Yiyi Zhou
cover photo by Alice Gao
penn appetit • fall 2009
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Doing Dinner Right, Per Se STORY BY DAVID WINCHELL • ILLUSTRATION BY BRYNN SHEPHERD
Not the big, showy, parting-the-Red-Sea miracles, but those that masquerade as prosaic or even boring. Take, for instance, the water: we chose sparkling, delivered in a frosted, tapered bottle and poured into pleasantly hefty crystal tumblers. It was bubbly and slightly sweet, almost like champagne. The source? New York City tap water, filtered and bottled on site. The sommelier was positively ebullient as she arrived with a freshly uncorked German Riesling, to be paired with the foie gras terrine sitting in front of me. She poured a little in the glass, which I swirled, sniffed, and finally tasted. I sighed involuntarily. “That’s what I like to see!” she said.
Over roughly four hours, my dining companion and I were treated to a seemingly endless parade of dishes—ten in all—punctuated by pauses the staff instinctively knew we needed. We had ample time to take in the sumptuous (though vaguely corporate) dining room, with its giant arrangements of ivory flowers, stately wood paneling, and serene view of Central Park. But mostly, on this grey afternoon in mid-June, our thoughts were on the food. The tiny, jewel-like tomatoes accompanying a fillet of rouget were bursting with juice, incarnations of summer made even more memorable by their pairing with Moroccan mint and a paste of nasturtium seeds. Lobster, butter-poached to pliant doneness, melded with ribbons of English cucumber, lettuce, and grapes in an unfussy demonstration of the kitchen’s faultless grasp of texture. The pork belly was more blunt, reveling in its fatty richness; syrupy wedges of caramelized fig only added to the decadence. Our favorite dish was also the simplest: a single quenelle of blueberry sorbet. “I think it’s the best we’ve ever served!” our waiter exclaimed. One taste vindicated that optimism: exploding with the essence of the fruit, this purest of desserts both dazzled and humbled. Nothing, in years of cooking and dining out, had come remotely close.
Bon Appétweet!
STORY BY CALDER SILCOX • ILLUSTRATION BY YIYI ZHOU
“For me, life’s perfect in 140 doses.” This is the cardinal tweet of Chicago
touch with patrons through Twitter, leaving their predecessors like payphones—relics of a bygone era.
celebrity chef Rick Bayless.
L.A. Mexi-Korean eatery Kogi tweets its trucks’ locations to 45,000
Bayless is one of many
followers, causing hour-long waits for $3 tacos. Rickshaw Dumpling Bar
chefs, restaurants, and rec-
informs hungry Manhattanites with tongue-in-cheek tweets like, “You
ipe makers who use Twitter’s
lucky ducks at Columbus Circle get Peking Duck dumplings today!!”
micro-blogging world to share photos, tips, and promotions. In a tweet, Bayless noted that Twitter is a “great way 2 share spirit/ inner workings” of his restaurants. Twitter makes it all human, he said.
Some Philadelphia trucks, such as Buttercream Cupcake Lady and Honest Tom’s Taco Shop, advertise their whereabouts on the site. However, Philly’s predominantly stationary food trucks don’t lend themSome brick-and-mortar eateries in Philly are taking part in the
and opened his third Chicago restaurant, Xoco. His 16,000 follow-
Twitter trend. Restaurateur Stephen Starr utilizes the 140-character
ers were there for every minute. Daily, he tweets recipes, photos of his
limit as “another voice” for his restaurants, according to Starr’s Director
tasting menus and gardens, and answers to questions from followers.
of Creative Services, Randi Sirkin. “It’s a good vehicle to get informa-
and New York City, food trucks use Twitter as a permanent virtual home while they roll from corner to corner. nationwide vendrification—the encroachment of high-tech food trucks on traditional street vendors. These 21 century-style vendors stay in st
penn appetit • fall 2009
tion out immediately,” including promotions and specials, she said. Sirkin thinks Twitter works for the food world because food and socializing go hand in hand. “Foodies are always looking for the next
In his New York Times blog “Schott’s Vocab,” Ben Schott described a
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After two more desserts, several cups of coffee, a few chocolates, and a tour of the bustling but spotless kitchen, we thanked the ever-gracious staff once more and headed back into the real world. I ate nothing for more than 24 hours after.
selves to Twitter, as menus vary little day to day and specials are rare.
This past year, Bayless won Bravo’s Top Chef Masters competition
Bayless’s is just one way to tweet in the food world. In Los Angeles
Per Se’s excellence is the product of its singularly passionate and uncompromising dedication to Executive Chef Thomas Keller’s mission, “making people happy.” I thought I understood this commitment, having read Keller’s French Laundry Cookbook and countless interviews before setting foot in the restaurant that day. Yet, I found myself wholly unprepared for the sheer enormity of the experience. Despite my knowing seemingly everything about what a meal there should be like, Per Se overwhelmed me.
fun thing to do,” she added, and Twitter can help them find just that. Foodies are taking easily to tweeting—and with only 140 characters, they’re careful to trim the fat. penn appetit • fall 2009
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Becoming a Carnivore
I
STORY BY YAANIK DESAI • PHOTO BY ZACHARY WASSERMAN dominated by tree-hugging, organic-crazed vegans from Northern California, I recently started eating meat. I grew up in an anything-but-devout Hindu family that never prays in Hindu temples, never celebrates Diwali, and never watches Bollywood films. Yet my family never abandoned a vegetarian diet. Whether they weren’t brave enough to make the switch, or felt no desire to do so in a vegetarian-friendly country, my parents remained herbivores and bred me in the same fashion. I was content for most of my life—there’s nothing wrong with being a vegetarian! So why did I feel the need to change? Ultimately, I felt that excluding meat from my diet made me a bad foodie. n a culinary er a
La Famiglia: A Feast of Seven Fishes STORY BY & PHOTO COURTESY OF VICTORIA JOHNSTON
the Feast of Seven Fishes is as central
symbolizing the Holy Trinity, or as many as thirteen, representing
to our family’s holiday traditions as exchanging gifts on Christmas
Jesus and the Twelve Apostles. But seven is the most common num-
morning. Growing up with an Italian grandmother, I have learned
ber, signifying the biblical number of perfection; the number might
how to both prepare and devour homemade Mediterranean fare
also be based on the Seven Sacraments, the Seven Days of Creation,
replete with extra virgin olive oil, San Marzano tomatoes, toasted
or perhaps the Seven Hills of Rome.
in the johnston household ,
pignoli, and of course, parmigiano reggiano cheese. The Christmas
Every year, the aroma of sautéed garlic and onion perfumes my
Eve fish feast is a true marriage of culture and cuisine. Our menu
grandmother’s house as she prepares for Christmas Eve supper. In
includes peppery jumbo-lump crabmeat salad; linguini and fresh
one pan, succulent scallops caramelize in butter until tender, while
clams in white wine, lemon juice, and olive oil; fried and sautéed
fresh clams steam to perfection. In the oven, Dover sole broils to a
calamari; and lots and lots of spaghetti. The customary Italian fish
light golden-brown and breaded calamari bakes to a heavenly crisp.
dishes, like fried smelts and whiting, are served alongside more
In the fridge, juicy, pink Gulf Coast shrimp stay chilled alongside
unconventional items, such as smoked salmon or sushi. Yet, before
savory smoked salmon. Vegetarian dishes, like spaghetti in seasoned
we can devour the food before us, we perform our most challenging
tomato sauce, sautéed escarole adorned with cured black olives and
task: squeezing fourteen of us around my grandmother’s tiny din-
toasted pine nuts, and velvety oven roasted eggplant, truly make this
ing room table. We may sacrifice comfort, sitting elbow to elbow,
meal an Italian feast.
but we are able to enjoy time-honored family recipes and reminisce about our past Christmas Eve dinners.
My grandmother has always told me that this meal is all about what Italians call la famiglia, because when you are surrounded by
The Feast of the Seven Fishes is based on the Roman Catholic tra-
good food and good people, you have received the greatest Christmas
dition of abstaining from meat on Holy Days and Fridays. Therefore,
gift there is: love. Not only does this meal have the power to excite
an entire meal of fish (which doesn’t count as meat) is a permissible
our taste buds with the aromas and f lavors of Italy, but it also brings
way to celebrate. Some Italians may have as few as three fish dishes,
together generations in a celebration of thanks and tradition.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
How could I claim to love food if I arbitrarily chose not to eat so much of it? I was tired of skipping straight to the vegetarian section of restaurant menus. I was tired of being taunted by the likes of Anthony Bourdain—one of my culinary heroes. My girlfriend gave me one of his cookbooks and I returned it because it didn’t have enough vegetarian options. I wanted to go to a fancy restaurant and enjoy whatever the chef had to offer, not a special vegetarian dish. But it wasn’t easy to make the switch. By shunning meat my entire life, I developed a fear of it. For years, the thought of eating meat disgusted me. I couldn’t imagine enjoying the texture of an animal’s flesh. The only cure for my carnophobia was to immerse myself head-on. Instead of starting easy (say, with chicken nuggets), I turned to a sushi joint near campus for my first carnivorous encounter. The “dancing shrimp roll” initially looked repulsive to me, the wannabe meat-eater. The roll was wrapped with a sliver of avocado and shrimp, filled with tuna and—the hardest for me to stomach—salmon roe. I was already prepared to renege on my commitment. Instead, I soaked the roll in soy sauce, closed my eyes, and chewed. I did not instantly love the pasty feel of raw fish on my tongue, but the flavors were surprisingly neutral. I didn’t mind the salty nuttiness of the roe. The second bite wasn’t nearly as hard to swallow. My next meeting with meat was at a Middle Eastern café a few blocks west of campus, where I ordered a lamb sandwich. Unlike the sushi, the lamb afforded a much starker contrast to the flavors I’d experienced as a vegetarian. Even so, it was easier for me to acclimate myself to farm meat. Once I overcame my initial psychological woes, I didn’t have any trouble at all. I found myself ordering a meat dish every time I ate out, and I never got (or felt) sick. Shrimp nigiri, lamb shish tawook, stir-fried jellyfish, prosciutto pizza—I soon became comfortable with a lush palette of new textures, flavors, and aromas. I’ve been eating meat for three months now. While my culinary journey is not over, I’ve realized my goal to become a better “foodie” was misguided. Eating exotic meats doesn’t necessarily mean that I appreciate food more than anybody else. Unlike Bourdain, I don’t look down on vegetarians. I’ve come away with a better understanding of why we eat. Rather than eating something for the sake of eating it or avoiding something for the sake of avoiding it, I’ve learned to appreciate food as one of the most primal but rewarding pleasures. penn appetit • fall 2009
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It’s Alive! A Fermentation Primer
how to: make a sourdough starter
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STORY BY MAURA GOLDSTEIN • PHOTO BY ELIZABETH CUNNINGHAM fermentation might have a negative connotation, as in,
hosts bacteria and yeast. When placed in sweetened tea and left
“Dang, that two-week-old orange juice is fermented and stinky.” But
exposed for a few days, the mother causes the liquid to become
in reality, fermentation can both promote health and be fun.
slightly acidic, and even reproduces itself so you can pass one on to
these days ,
The ancient practice of fermentation uses microscopic living
a friend. With ginger beer, I got the “ginger bug” starter to bubble
organisms to preserve foods and make them more nutritious, digest-
and ferment. However, the fermentation stopped after bottling, pre-
ible, and delicious. During the process, yeasts or bacteria feed on
venting proper carbonation. I plan to try again, doing a better job of
the sugars in a mixture of grain and water, converting them into
priming—adding sugar during bottling—to jump-start the yeasts.
alcohol and carbon dioxide. This is why your bubbly bottle of beer
A lot of the fun in fermentation comes from interacting with
makes you drunk. Just about anything can be fermented, but the timing varies: it
and feeding my sourdough starter, a living mixture of f lour and water. My starter has already produced some delicious breads and I
year (as with miso, a Japanese seasoning made from fermented soy-
aim to perfect this decelerated method of baking. You can also mix
beans, barley, or rice). Other fermented foods include sauerkraut,
up a batter with some starter at night to enjoy fantastic sourdough
tempeh, fish sauce, and sourdough bread.
pancakes in the morning.
For a simple ferment like sourdough, one simply mixes flour with
The historic practice of fermentation makes sense for a variety
water and leaves the mixture exposed to air. Over the course of a few
of reasons. It has the ability to render foods such as soybeans more
days, naturally-occurring airborne yeasts feed on the sugars, causing
digestible by breaking down the proteins into amino acids. Milk,
the mixture to bubble and give off a pleasant sour smell. Watching
too, undergoes a convenient transformation: many lactose-intolerant
this mixture come alive is, in my opinion, one of the more exciting
people can eat yogurt because fermentation transforms the milk’s
things that can happen in a kitchen.
lactose into easily digestible lactic acid.
Fermenting milk to make yogurt or cheese requires adding live
Fermentation teaches that bacteria can be a good thing and that,
cultures of bacteria. Sauerkraut and pickles, on the other hand, soak
by inviting these microorganisms to participate in our food prepa-
in brine colonized by wild bacteria that work magic on vegetables.
ration, we can experience unique and complex flavors. Indeed, the
I’ve experimented with making kombucha, ginger beer, and sourdough bread. Kombucha uses a “mother,” a gelatinous skin that
Mix together two cups flour and two cups water in a jar or bowl. Rye flour makes for a really active starter but any kind of flour works. Stir the mixture vigorously. Dropping unwashed whole fruit such as plums, grapes, or berries into your starter will speed up the introduction of wild yeasts. There is often a film of yeast on the outside of fruit that is drawn to their sweetness. Make sure the fruit is organic.
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cover & store Cover the jar with cheesecloth or another porous material that keeps flies out but allows air in. Store your batter in a warm place with good air circulation. Visit your batter as often as you think of it, at least daily, and stir it vigorously. Agitation distributes yeast activity and stimulates the process.
living organisms. For the past several months I’ve enjoyed tending
can take a few days (as with kombucha, a fermented tea) or over a
mix & stir
Adapted from Sandor Ellix Katz’s Wild Fermentation
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watch for bubbles After some number of days you will notice tiny bubbles releasing at the batter’s surface, which means the yeast is active. Note that the action of stirring the batter may create some air bubbles—do not confuse these with the yeast bubbles that occur without stirring. If you do not find bubbles forming after three or four days, find a warmer spot or add a pinch of packaged yeast.
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strain & feed Once yeast activity is evident, strain out the fruit. Then add one or two tablespoons more flour to the mixture each day for three or four days, and continue stirring. You can add any kind of flour, leftover cooked grains, rolled oats, or whole grains. You want the mixture to remain liquid in form, so add more water if the sourdough gets so thick that it starts to become solid.
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yeasts and bacteria in your kitchen, town, and state are different than those anywhere else. Celebrate them!
use your starter! Once you have a thick, bubbly batter, your starter is ready to use. Pour out what you need and save the rest to keep the sourdough going. All you need is a little, so what remains on the edges of the jar will suffice. To replenish the starter, add water roughly equal to the volume of starter you removed and the same volume of flour. Feed it a little flour every day or two if you’re baking weekly. If you use it less frequently, refrigerate it. It is best to refrigerate sourdough after the replenished starter has had at least four to eight hours of active bubbly fermentation. Feed the refrigerated starter about once a week. A day or two before you plan to bake, move it to
SOURDOUGH PANCAKES
a warm location and feed it to warm it up and get the yeast active again.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
2 ½ cups wheat flour 2 cups water ½ cup sourdough starter (or more for more sour flavor) 1 egg, beaten 2 tbsp. oil ¾-1 cup of milk 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. baking soda 2 tbsp. brown sugar
› The night before you plan to make pancakes, make the sponge by mixing the flour, water, and starter in a large bowl. Leave at room temperature covered with a cloth. › In the morning, add the egg, oil, and milk to the sponge. Mix together the salt, baking soda, and brown sugar, then add to the sponge. Let the batter sit for 10 minutes while you heat the griddle or pan. › When the griddle is hot, spread some butter on it. Pour about ¼ cup of batter on the griddle for each pancake. Cook until bubbles start appearing and the bottoms have browned. Flip the pancakes and cook until browned on the other side. › Continue pouring the batter and cooking the pancakes until you have used all the batter. Serve the pancakes with butter, maple syrup, or whatever you like. Enjoy!
penn appetit • fall 2009
9
RESTAURANT REVIEW:
Cuisine Crossings
CHINA
sazon
Sazon: Like a Venezuelan Home
I
STORY BY JAMIE PNG • PHOTOS BY MICHAEL CHIEN & CHRISTIANA HAY some weeks ago to check out Philly’s lone
jungle roots.” I’d place this firmly in the category of winter warmer: a
Venezuelan restaurant, Sazon. These weren’t just any friends, though.
complete meal of meat, vegetables, and starches in a robust clear broth.
We came with dietary restrictions: celiac, vegetarian, lactose-intolerant.
If you’re looking for that home-cooked quality, this is your best bet.
i rounded up a few friends
MEXICO
LEBANON
STORY BY KARUNA MEDA ILLUSTRATION BY BRYNN SHEPHERD
PERU
D
INDIA
Along with a cabernet sauvignon, we brought one digestively unafflicted
Happily for the celiac member of our party, the enticing list of
individual to act as the control sample so we could all decide: could Sazon
arepas was wholly gluten-free. Each coarse cornmeal patty was toasted
accommodate our picky party of five on a busy Friday night?
to encourage a crisp crust and tender crumb, and was stuffed high
Sazon markets itself as celiac-friendly. All gluten-free dishes are pre-
with filling. A serving could easily have fed one person. The reina pepi-
pared in a separate part of the kitchen, and the menu helpfully denotes
ada arepa ($7.50), essentially a mayonnaise chicken salad with avocado,
gluten-free selections. A perusal of the offerings on the restaurant’s
failed to excite us. The grilled vegetable selva arepa ($9) pleased our eyes
website sounded tasty and promising. Alongside “gluten-free,” phrases
and our palates with its generous slab of portabella mushroom under a
such as “healthy,” “homestyle,” and “non-fattening” popped up all over
stack of mixed vegetables. The veggies could have been less thoroughly
the menu. According to the website, Sazon’s Venezuelan-born chef,
oiled, but that is a minor complaint. Best of our three arepas was the
smoth-
economically, they imported ingredients from
peninsula. With the oil boom and an inf lux
Judith Suzarra-Campbell, uses only recipes from her family’s village.
pernil ($9)—pulled pork and black olives in a marinade of wine and
ered in “Maggie” sweet and
their ancestral towns in addition to planting
of World War II refugees in the 1940s, the
We were keen to find out how authentic her food tasted.
orange juice, topped with long strands of cooked onions. Glorious and
sour ketchup and soy sauce,
their own vegetables. Around 1910, the first
Lebanese population grew and spread into
We shared a range of dishes—a soup, a selection of arepas, and two
laden with chilis, ginger, and
Peruvian-Chinese restaurants opened in Lima.
Central Mexico. The Lebanese quickly assimi-
entrées. I was most intrigued by the sancocho de carne ($9.50), translated
According to the general consensus (including the vegetarian!), the
MSG. This dish is the epitome of Indo-Chinese
Residents of Lima were enthralled with
lated into the new culture but also maintained
on the menu as “exotic vegetables beef stew” and containing all man-
standout dish was the asado negro ($18), an entrée of beef shoulder
cuisine, a mingling of diverse f lavors that
the spicy sauces, rice, soups, and vegetables;
many traditions, including their culinary heri-
ner of winter vegetables
slow-cooked in garlic sauce and unrefined cane sugar. The sweet, dark
Indians have embraced in both street food and
chifa spread across Lima and was enjoyed
tage. As it turns out, this was not hard: during
and mysterious
meat sauce seeped into the neighboring pile of savory white rice, and I
fine dining. The small Chinese community
by all social strata. Through the establish-
the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the early
“exot ic
would’ve happily eaten just spoonfuls of that. We also mopped up the
in Kolkata, home to India’s only Chinatown,
ment of an expansive Chinatown, ingredients
15 century, the Spaniards had already brought
sauce with slices of fried plantain, salvaged arepa bits, or the edge of a
developed this hybrid style. Through the
like soy sauce, ginger, and scallions became
many traditional Lebanese ingredients. Hence
fork. Our other entrée was the vegetarian patacon ($18), a huge tostone
exchange of culinary techniques, spices, and
widely available. The Chinese also introduced
homemade Lebanese dishes could be prepared
sandwich filled with fresh vegetables, cheese, avocado, and spinach,
flavors, Chinese people and their cuisine have
the “culture of the wok” to Peruvian cuisine.
quite easily.
integrated into the larger Indian community.
Arroz chaufa is emblematic of the Peruvian
The Lebanese were open to giving their
Given China’s shared border with the north
and Chinese gastronomic fusion: rice sautéed
conventional dishes a Mexican twist. For
Voluble owner Bob Campbell served us most of the night, stop-
Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, the trans-
in a wok with soy sauce, Chinese onion, ginger,
instance, the recipe for tabbouleh, a salad of
ping by our table to give his two cents on everything from the
mission of culture—and development of
egg, beef, and potato—Peru’s national tuber.
bulghur wheat, olive oil, citrus juice, parsley,
charms of Venezuelan women, to the tapas restaurant craze,
Indo-Chinese food—seems intuitive.
In Chinese, chi means “to eat” and fan means
and tomato, soon included cucumbers and
to the slip-ups of other chocolatiers. He prides himself on his
eep fried c auliflower
th
hefty, yes, but also unexpectedly delicate in flavor.
with a side of rice. Like the arepas, the tostones were perfectly cooked, though once again, we found the grilled vegetables oily.
These so-called “hybrid cuisines” pervade
“rice”; indeed Peruvians have embraced this
the popular Seville orange. This simple salad
skills with hot chocolate. “I’m creative as shit!” he assured us
the globe, even when there is no geographical
tradition, preparing rice with Chinese-inspired
is hugely popular and is included in Mexican
as we peered at the dessert menu. We ordered two hot choc-
connection. How does such a culinary merger
ingredients and cooking styles.
cookbooks as ensalada árabe or Arabic salad.
olates—the seasonally-inspired calabaza king (pumpkin, fall
Mexico has also been enriched by outside
The national Lebanese dish kibbeh, usually
spices, and crushed walnuts) and the hot chili-spiced, dairy-
take place? A little historical exploration will shed some light.
influences, from the Spanish conquest in the
made with lamb, uses more locally available
free la cuaima. Both evoked the bodily effects of “a warm
Peruvian-Chinese food is another exam-
15th century to the more recent influx of busi-
ingredients in Mexico such as deer, fish, beef,
bath,” as one of our group said. A selection of housemade choc-
ple of a hybrid cuisine, known to Peruvians
nessmen, adventurers, and diplomats from
or potatoes.
as chifa. The concept of chifa began with the
France, Italy, and Lebanon. The Lebanese pres-
Indo-Chinese, chifa, and Lebanese-Mexican
arrival of Chinese immigrants from Canton
ence in Mexico has given rise to another hybrid
cuisines are just a few examples of hybrid
and Macau in the late 1800s. Chinese people
cuisine. In the early 19th century, the first wave
cooking styles. The fusion represents much
Campbell’s chocolates, like his wife’s food, have definite integ-
were hired as chefs for the long journey across
of Lebanese immigrants arrived to Mexico,
more than the exchange of food; it symbolizes
rity. He claims they don’t cut corners, personally sourcing local
the Pacific Ocean, and many continued to work
driven from their native land because of reli-
the intermingling of people who share expe-
ingredients and cooking from authentic or original recipes. All of this,
as chefs on ranches upon reaching the main-
gious and political instability under Ottoman
riences, the richness of culture, and a passion
he says, justifies his being “cocky as hell.” I can about as confidently
land. As these Chinese Peruvians progressed
rule. These immigrants settled in the Yucatán
for delectable food.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
olate truffles completed our dessert course. The negrita—my personal favorite—utilized the f lavors of a Venezuelan hangover cure: carrot, orange, and beet.
SAZON 941 SPRING GARDEN STREET WWW.SAZONRESTAURANT.COM
vouch for the food’s quality—and you definitely won’t leave hungry. penn appetit • fall 2009
11
Giwa Korean:
“Simplicity, Plenty of Ingredients, and Balance” STORY BY PATRICK CHUNG • PHOTOS BY OLIVIA COFFEY & RACHEL STONE
A familiar smile pops onto owner Yong Chi’s face as I walk into Giwa on 16th and Sansom. “Back again?” he asks in his native tongue, as he prepares my favorite Korean food in Philadelphia. A web-designer turned restaurateur, Yong Chi hails from Jeola-Do, a Korean province known for its rustic food. His family taught him to cook because he had to learn. “Since my wife is Chinese, if I wanted to eat Korean food, I had no other choice but to cook,” he said. 12
penn appetit • fall 2009
penn appetit • fall 2009
13
On previous page, from left: Dolsot-bibimbop cooks in a stone bowl, allowing the white rice to become slightly burnt and crunchy; a hot dish sits on the self-serve counter in the restaurant; owner and chef Yong Chi flashes his familiar smile in the dining area. Clockwise from top left: The open kitchen of Giwa contributes to the inviting atmosphere of the restaurant; a cold vegetarian bibimbop waits in the kitchen for its seaweed garnish; workers (including owner Yong Chi, second from left) move around the bustling kitchen at Giwa’s lunch hour; one customer scoops dolsot-bibimbop out of its stone bowl after it’s been mixed with sweet-and-spicy pepper paste; a cook slices tofu for vegetarian bibimbop.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
Yong Chi highlights the time-tested basics of Korean food he learned from childhood: “Simplicity, plenty of ingredients, and balance.” He yearned to spread his love of his native food and desperately wanted to break the mold. “Most Korean restaurants are intimidating for non-Koreans, so I wanted to make Giwa simple and inviting, while providing genuine Korean food,” he said. After a year of planning and three years of business dealings, Giwa opened and soon won a Best of Philly Award for Nuevo Korean. Yong Chi’s food combines the homey goodness of comfort food with complexity of taste. He serves peasant dishes like the dolsot-bibimbop— rice, vegetables, and meat in a heated stone bowl—melding elegance with humble beginnings. “I just want more people to appreciate Korean food,” Yong Chi told me. As long as he continues to cook, people will.
penn appetit • fall 2009
15
The Labor Behind Flavor
E
STORY BY ELIZABETH O’BRIEN • ILLUSTRATION BY YIYI ZHOU author of Fast
International Flavors and Fragrances,
and present it to the company’s flavorists.
Food Nation, introduced me to
another leading firm, sent researchers to China
These chemists then work to duplicate
the hidden world of the flavor
to complete the ambitious task of profiling the
and enhance the molecules from the pal-
industry. In his famous exposé,
economic status, religious beliefs, and daily
ette. They create flavor sample kits, which
ric schlosser,
he illustrates the engineering behind pro-
they then mass-produce and send to food
cessed food by describing how companies
manufacturing companies. The latest pal-
create chemical compounds that taste just
ette from Givaudan, for example, focuses
like, for example, a piece of fruit or a hamburger. This intrigued and skeeved me at the
Researchers collect samples of natural materials for analysis.
lence, umami.
same time, so I did some research. I did not
The flavor industry has a large role in
find a suspicious industry distorting natural
daily life, but it must conceal itself; people
products. Rather, I learned about a creative and scientific endeavor, inspired by nature, which contributes to the experience of food.
Flavors are synthesized with volatile (quickly evaporating) molecules.
do not want to know their ice cream, cheese, meat, and soft drinks get their tastes from “chemical” ingredients. Consumers love
The flavor industry is so pervasive that it is
caramel truffles because of sweet homofu-
here to stay in our culinary lives.
ronol, and berry-flavored sodas and juices
The flavor sector comprises a large part of the $18 billion flavor and fragrance industry. Flavor companies—like Givaudan,
Sample of molecule of interest is extracted on location and mailed to flavor company headquarters.
International Flavors and Fragrances, and Sensient—employ chefs, researchers, biol-
Flavorists create identical-tonature flavor molecules by imitating natural molecules.
because of 2-Methyltetrahydrothiophen-3one. Recently companies have consolidated
I
it was pure fortune
“
STORY & PHOTO BY ANDY TAN
that I stumbled upon an agricultural gem during
my vacation in Bali and got the chance to savor its cuisine. My companion and I decided to visit the picturesque rice fields in Ubud one morning; what was supposed to be a five-minute stroll led us deep into
the enchanting countryside. We saw local farmers mending an irrigation network, weeding crops, and planting rice seedlings into flooded
fields. After wandering for 20 minutes on a mud trail that hugged the
As we relished the dishes that came directly from the fields in front of us, we tasted the goodness and freshness of the land.
the names of flavor compounds, reducing
terraces, we saw a sign for a warung (Indonesian for a local café serving
enjoy a made-to-order meal. Such was the flexibility of eating in a café
the number of artificial-sounding ingredi-
traditional fare) nestled among the tranquil rice fields. It was beckon-
located just a hop away from the source of its produce.
ents on product labels.
ing for us to get refreshments before we continued our hike.
Gado-gado, cold bean curd and tempeh drenched in spicy peanut
However, flavorists are far from mad
Sari Organik is a cooperative farm in Ubud, near central Bali, co-
sauce, is popular in many parts of Southeast Asia; the Balinese ver-
scientists who want to doctor up bastard-
founded by Ms. Nila Wati, an Indonesian native, and an Israeli partner,
sion, with its special blend of spices, is irresistible. The gado-gado at the
So how exactly does the industry shape
ized, food-reminiscent potions. They are
Mr. Oded. Both are firm believers in sustainable, organic farming prac-
warung was hands-down the best I’ve had: a hearty serving of freshly
our eating and drinking experience? The
strikingly similar to cooks in their attitude
tices and local Balinese cuisine. Since 2003, the farm has grown from a
boiled vegetables, tempeh, and tofu in a sweet peanut sauce with hints of
toward what they create.
tiny 0.4 hectare tract of land to over three hectares, providing a source of
tamarind and curry. This made the less-beaten track to the café worth it.
“It is important to understand how the
income for 15 families in the area. The farm uses adapted permaculture
All over Bali, nasi campur—mixed rice with vegetables and meat—
balance and harmony of taste affects the
and chemical-free principles, supplying a range of organic products,
is a simple daily staple for locals and tourists alike. The warung version
eating experience,” says Matthew Walter, a
such as rice and vegetables, to the Ubud area. In 2007, the owners estab-
used organic brown rice surrounded by a colorful array of side dishes:
researcher for Givaudan’s culinary center
lished Warung Bodag Maliah, a café adjacent to the farm, offering local
a corn-based biscuit, chicken thigh sautéed in bright red tomato sauce,
of expertise, which spearheaded the com-
cuisine made from the farm’s produce.
stir-fried green beans, dark brown fried tempeh, and a light pink shred-
ogists, and chemists (known as flavorists) to shape tastes.
creative chemists in the flavor industry must look for “inspiration” from a team of flavor researchers, chefs, and biologists who
An efficient method of production that maximizes flavor and cost efficiency is found.
are able to give a wide perspective on flavors across the globe. This kind of mobile research is a large focus of flavor companies,
Molecules are mass-produced and sent to food processing factories, usually in powder form.
pany’s exploration of the science behind the
The warung, a rustic wood and bamboo structure, overlooks a series
umami sensation. Walter asserts that fla-
of rice terraces. It was a rare treat to escape the tourists and instead lis-
For dessert, we ordered a Balinese crepe with banana filling, topped
When a flavor company wants to
vor creation balances the natural and the
ten to farm animals, occasional wind chimes, and clicks of homemade
with shredded fresh coconut and brown sugar sauce. A warm cup of
broaden its horizons, it dispatches a team
chemical and is “much more complex” than
scarecrows in the breeze. This café was unlike the touristy eateries in
sweet ginger tea brought the whole Warung Bodag Maliah experience to a satisfying finish.
as the world becomes more interconnected and people’s tastes more international.
of chefs and scientists to a location rich in
lives of the country’s citizens. This informa-
the reckless addition of ingredients like the
the main town, which boasted a traditional pura (temple) backdrop for
plants and other organic specimens, such
tion was gathered to help flavorists understand
infamous monosodium glutamate (MSG)
Balinese dance performances or served modern fusion cuisine.
as the rainforest. Givaudan’s TasteTrek pro-
why different people in China bought and used
gram promotes travel to different locales to
certain ingredients, leading to the creation of
investigate both ingredients and techniques
the Asian flavors now popular in the U.S.
to create new flavor molecules back at the companies’ laboratories.
16
on the recently defined sensation of succu-
penn appetit • fall 2009
Flavor research teams create a taste palette with natural ingredients they encounter
ded onion dip.
As we relished the dishes that came directly from the fields in front
The warung’s seasonal menu offered a variety of dishes depending
of us, we tasted the goodness and freshness of the land. Dining in this
Instead of being scared of the flavor
on the availability of produce from the farm. Dishes were predominantly
setting, we saw how other farmers in the Ubud area could duplicate Ms.
industry, one can appreciate the flavorists’
Balinese or Indonesian style, with hints of Middle Eastern influences,
Wati’s model of sustainable “family-size” farming. Sari Organik and
whimsical creativity, passion, and innova-
such as falafel and kebabs. For those inclined to work for their food,
Warung Bodag Maliah demonstrate how to offer affordable, delicious,
tion for creating tastes.
the café also allowed customers to harvest directly from the farm and
and locally-grown organic food to the public.
to foods.
penn appetit • fall 2009
17
Spill the Beans: The Secret to a Fine Espresso STORY BY TIMOTHY SAKHUJA • PHOTOS BY ALICE GAO
A proper espresso drink is not simply a means of caffeine delivery, nor is it a canvas for a collage of flavored syrups. It is a stripped down libation made of a minimum of ingredients—espresso and often milk—that can be as beautiful to the eyes and taste buds as it is simple. An espresso drink is only as good as the sum of its parts; high-quality ingredients will bring it over the top. 1
THE BEANS
2 THE PULL
The selection and quality of beans define an espresso. The beans
The pull—the manner in which espresso is brewed—truly sepa-
should produce a shot of espresso worthy of sipping on its own, even if
rates espresso from your average cup of coffee. With early piston lever
it will be mixed with milk later. Indicative of a properly brewed espresso
espresso machines, the quality of the espresso depended on the barista
shot is a thick reddish foam cap called the crema, a frothy conglomera-
applying a consistent force to extract (or pull) the coffee. These days,
tion of proteins, sugars, and oils.
automated pump-driven machines consistently pour a perfect shot of
The mixture should accentuate specific f lavor profiles, which
espresso with a rich crema. But a skilled operator still produces the
requires experimentation. While everyone has different preferences,
optimal result: the barista must decide how finely ground and tightly
the ideal mixture produces a sweet, well-rounded espresso that is never
tamped the coffee should be to produce an exceptional pull.
overly acidic or astringent. However, even the best beans cannot make
The pressure source in an espresso machine forces hot water
an exceptional espresso unless they are ground immediately before
through a tightly packed coffee puck, extracting its concentrated f la-
brewing; ground coffee begins to lose its complexity in minutes. Of the
vors and partially emulsifying its oils with water to thicken it. This
two major varieties of coffee beans—Arabica and Robusta—Arabica is
thickening distinguishes espresso from standard coffee. In the pro-
preferred in espresso because it is more aromatic and less bitter. Some
cess, a very small amount of water passes through a large amount of
aficionados, though, opt for single origin coffee, highlighting specific
coffee, thereby extracting only the most aromatic elements and leaving
aromas and supporting one growing region’s economy.
the bitterness behind.
3 THE MILK
2
1
4 THE FINISH
Most espresso enthusiasts agree that 2% is the milk of choice for
To finish the drink with milk, a barista carefully pours or spoons freshly
espresso drinks. When properly frothed, it takes on a velvety, uniform
steamed milk into a cup of espresso. With skill, a barista can create
consistency that is neither too dry nor too watery. The best way to froth
elaborate espresso art, commonly in the shape of a fern or heart, which
milk is by using the steam wand on an espresso machine. The barista
results from mixing the milk with the crema. Espresso art is the perfect
raises the wand to the surface to work in the air for frothing.
finish to a beverage that is as much art as it is drink.
guide to espresso drinks CAPPUCCINO: Classic Italian. Equal parts espresso, steamed milk, and milk foam. CAFFÈ LATTE: Made for Americans who dislike espresso’s strong flavor. Three parts steamed milk to one part espresso. Little or no foam. ESPRESSO RISTRETTO: Literally, “restrained” espresso. Extracted to only 0.75 ounces, resulting in a stronger, less bitter drink. ESPRESSO LUNGO: A shot of espresso extracted to 1.5 ounces. Less concentrated but more bitter. ESPRESSO CON PANNA: One shot of espresso topped with whipped cream. ESPRESSO ROMANO: One shot of espresso served with a twist of lemon peel. ESPRESSO MACCHIATO: One shot of espresso topped with a bit of foamed milk.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
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penn appetit • fall 2009
19
4
Philadelphia Gets Soft Served
Twist and Shout STORY BY SHIRI BOGOMOLNY • PHOTOS BY MAGGIE EDKINS
W
STORY BY MELODY CHAN • PHOTO BY KENDALL HAUPT a Philadelphian frozen yogurt
yogurt stores in general caters to that demo-
how to twist their own. With the sanction of Governor Ed Rendell,
devotee had to journey to New York City for
graphic. Sweet Ending has a cheery red and
Philadelphia proudly celebrates Pretzel Day every April 26.
a fix of their favorite tart treat. Since then,
white interior; Phileo has pink and green tiled
you may
every corner. The Pretzel Museum, now closed, used to show visitors
pay attention to the tangy mustard or dissolving
hen biting into a soft, doughy pretzel ,
rocks of salt on your tongue. You probably don’t
a y e a r ago ,
ponder how our salty, twisted snacks got to be the
Pinpointing the best pretzel in town is nearly impossible, but I
though, Philly has seen the openings of four
walls and a heart in its logo, trying to appeal to
way they are. But really: how do wheat flour, water, sugar, and yeast com-
was determined to find some of the greatest pretzels in the city. I first
fro-yo shops, even in the midst of a recession:
female customers.
stopped at the Tasty Twisters Bakery. When I stepped into the small
Sprinkles on 36 and Chestnut, Sweet Ending
Fans of tangy frozen yogurt have turned
shop on Umbria Street in Manayunk, I was greeted by a delicious smell
on 17 th and Chestnut, Yogorino on 20th and
into cult followings. A section of the Pinkberry
The soft pretzel, according to legend, dates all the way back to 610
and a world of pretzel variations: nuggets, twists, bagels, buns, and of
Locust, and Phileo on 4th and South.
website is devoted to “Pinkberry Groupies”—
when monks twisted scraps of dough to represent a child’s arms
course, the original. I had to go for the traditional. Hand-twisted daily
The tangy frozen yogurt trend began in
essentially, a fro-yo Facebook. In January
folded in prayer. In the Middle Ages, pretzels were placed on spears and
and selling for only a quarter a piece, the traditional pretzels live up to
Seoul, South Korea, where Red Mango opened
2009, Red Mango introduced their loyalty
their reputation!
in 2002. It didn’t make its way to the U.S. until
program, “Club Mango.” Frozen yogurt com-
The next stop on my hunt was the Philly Pretzel Factory, an east coast
2005, when Pinkberry opened in Los Angeles.
panies aim to sell not just a product, but an
chain that won the 2008 Best
Attracting celebrities like Lindsay Lohan and
experience, to their customers. Pinkberry uses
of Philly award. Open 1 am to
Paris Hilton with its promise of healthful
$350 chairs and $500 tables in an effort to cre-
7pm, the factory serves pretzels
indulgence, it wasn’t long before frozen yogurt
ate an ambience of casual luxury. The current
all day. It prides itself on varia-
became the next big thing.
craze, and its accompanying aesthetic, is com-
bine to taste so good? And how did it become such an integral part of Philadelphia culture? ad,
used as good-luck charms.
“
Pretzels finally made their way to the New World with the Pennsylvania Dutch in the 18th century, but the first official pretzel factory didn’t come
about until a century later after a most unusual course
of events. According to legend, in 1850, Pennslvania
Philadelphians consume twelve times more pretzels than the typical American, and soft pretzel carts can be found parked on almost every corner.
baker Julius Sturgis gave food
and shelter to a homeless man, who in return presented him with a
th
tions like pretzel dogs, and the
Pinkberry leads the U.S. fro-yo market,
parable to the 1990s Starbucks revolution,
array of dipping sauces, from
with 73 stores mostly in California and New
which created a new type of gourmet coffee
honey mustard to chocolate.
York. Red Mango follows Pinkberry with 48
experience. It is no coincidence that Howard
Philly Pretzel Factory’s sales
stores across the country. These two chains are
Schultz, co-founder of Starbucks, is one of
now engaged in an all-out yogurt war as they
Pinkberry’s key investors.
across all of its locations were about $40 million in the same year. Prominent enough to be found on every corner of Philly, and signif-
both plan for explosive growth: Red Mango
Smaller stores are also able to use the trend
from baking these new snacks. In 1861 he opened the first commer-
icant enough to have its own commemorative day, the pretzel is more
wants to expand to 550 locations in five years,
to turn a healthy profit. The business model of
cial American Pretzel bakery in Lititz, Pennsylvania, which continues
than just a snack. The irresistible munchie is a symbol and long tra-
concentrating on Texas and the Midwest, while
a frozen-yogurt store is relatively simple, with
to bake its daily batch of pretzels today.
dition of Europe and Philadelphia. Whether the pretzel is arms folded
Pinkberry is looking to open in U.S. airports
reasonable equipment costs (mainly soft-serve
in prayer, a lucky charm, or an immigrant from a foreign country,
and the Middle East.
machines and refrigeration) and small space
secret pretzel recipe. Sturgis tried the recipe and obtained great success
Since then, the capital of American pretzels has shifted 75 miles east to Philadelphia. Philadelphians consume twelve times more pretzels
one thing is for sure: there is nothing like a soft, fresh-from-the-oven
than the typical American, and soft pretzel carts are parked on almost
Philadelphia soft pretzel.
Apart from the attraction of the “it” fac-
needs. Even with industry giants Pinkberry
tor, fro-yo vendors tout their products’ health
and Red Mango, there are still profitable
benefits. In general, tangy frozen yogurt is fat-
opportunities for independent stores and
free and has about 90-100 calories per serving.
smaller chains, such as those in Philadelphia.
Active yogurt cultures called probiotics may aid
There is no cooking involved with frozen
digestion and build a healthy immune system.
yogurt—a store can run with only one or two
A 2007 lawsuit accused Pinkberry of making
employees at a time. With an attractive return
unsupported claims about their fro-yo’s health-
on investment, entrepreneurs and franchisees
fulness, centering on the lack of active yogurt
are as eager to open frozen yogurt stores as
cultures. In response, Pinkberry became cer-
customers are to come to them.
tified by the National Yogurt Association with the Live and Active Cultures seal.
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penn appetit • fall 2009
However, in Korea, the frozen yogurt craze is dying down. Red Mango’s store count has
Perhaps because of these supposed health
decreased from 150 stores in 2005 to 118 cur-
benefits, the majority of fro-yo consumers are
rently. Who knows how long the trend will last
women. Seventy percent of Red Mango’s cus-
in the U.S.? For now, though, Philadelphia’s
tomers are female, and the ambience of frozen
fro-yo scene has only begun to heat up.
penn appetit • fall 2009
21
INTERVIEW:
Michael Solomonov of Zahav
michael solomonov
INTERVIEW BY OLIVIA COFFEY • PHOTOS BY BRYNN SHEPHERD
Michael Solomonov, 31, has been Executive Chef at the Israeli restaurant Zahav since it opened in 2008. Named a James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef in 2009, Solomonov also co-owns Xochitl, a Mexican restaurant, and the recentlyopened Percy Street Barbecue. Solomonov spoke with Penn Appétit about the motivations behind his cooking and the way he wants Philadelphians to eat.
What did you do before you became a chef?
thing about the United States. We
The restaurant scene in Philly has
I was really into art when I was younger. I went from being a photo
have over 20 different countries
changed recently; it seems to have
major in college— and also snowboarding and partying and not really
represented here in our menu and
gotten more casual. Do you think
going to class—to dropping out and ending up in Israel. There was no
there’s probably about double that
that’s true and for the better?
outlet for photography there, especially an art major that doesn’t speak
over in Israel.
I think it’s changing for a reason.
Hebrew. I was useless. Once I started cooking, I put down the camera. I have not shot a roll of film since I started cooking.
What a lot of people seem to forWhat is the philosophy behind your
get is that we are in the hospitality
restaurants?
business, so catering to our custom-
Why did you come to Philadelphia?
Season perfectly, cook everything
ers is the most important thing. If
I went to culinary school in West Palm Beach, Florida. I moved there after
perfectly, get the best ingredients
it were about what I wanted to do,
Israel. I met a girl there in a restaurant and we ended up moving to Philly
possible, and present it nicely. At
I’d have a ten-seat restaurant where
because she had a brother in Yardley. I grew up in Pittsburgh—although
Zahav, as far as plating, it’s low
I only sold hummus, made bread,
not in the most metropolitan area, still the northeast. So, we ended up
on the totem pole for me. I want
wore a dirty T-shirt, and cooked
in Philly. I worked at a restaurant called Striped Bass which was owned
people rolling up their sleeves and
with lit cigarettes like they do in
by Neil Stein, one of the big restaurateurs of that era. Then I worked at
eating with their hands. I think
Israel. Or I’d want a ten-seater with
Vetri for a couple years, and then I took a chef’s job at Marigold Kitchen.
that things should be eaten with
only a tasting menu and people that
a little more gusto. Our meat is
just came in to eat the food. When
What is your favorite dish at Zahav?
all cooked over coals on sticks.
I came to Philly and I was working
It changes all the time. Right now, we’re doing a lamb three ways: bar-
It’s a rudimentary way to cook
at Striped Bass, we had $52 lobster
becued lamb leg, braised lamb’s tongue, and lamb rib. It’s kind
and I want people to be really
entrées. We were packed every sin-
of Persian style using some tamarind, so it’s got the sweet-
comfortable eating. We have very
sour thing. We’re using a Jerusalem artichoke purée and
high-end wine and we have very
baby artichoke salad for that. Hummus is my favorite
attentive service.
thing too.
“
How do the politics of food play Second to Israel, what region of the world is most influential for your cuisine? I guess I would say the United
into your menus?
We have a reputable fish company
I want people rolling up their sleeves and eating with their hands. I think that things should be eaten with a little more gusto.
gle night and people wanted that. Now, there’s no way—you’d be out of business if you tried that. There’s no restaurant that is doing that right now. Do you try to appeal to students in any way?
and they are pretty conscious of
States. Israeli cuisine is a lot
what’s going on politically. We try to use as much of the local pro-
It’s sort of a different style of food which I think students are into. I
of different cuisines. A
duce as we can, but it gets a little bit difficult to do that. We still have
certainly wasn’t when I was a student. I wasn’t that much into eating.
lot of people use the
responsibilities to our customers to provide something that’s going to
I was the pickiest eater ever—I would wipe tomato sauce off of pizza. I
term melting pot,
be consistent, affordable, and tasty. There’s nothing worse than going
was a difficult child. When I was about 17, 18, I started eating a lot and
and people say
totally organic and then ending up with really shitty produce, like
started cooking shortly thereafter.
the same
organic tomatoes that taste mealy and flat. What kinds of customers do you want at Zahav? I like having the variety of customers that we have. We have families. We have people coming to hang out at the bar and to drink a Goldstar beer and eat hummus, which is, if I weren’t working here, exactly what I would be doing everyday. We have huge groups of people. And we’ve got people here on dates, which is really nice. There are a hundred different ways to make a meal here or have a dining experience. ZAHAV 217 ST. JAMES PLACE WWW.ZAHAVRESTAURANT.COM
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