Spring 2022: The Spice Issue by penn appétit

penn appétit

THE

SPICE

IS S U E

SPRING 2022

penn appétit EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Randy Bach

MANAGING EDITOR

Emily Truong

EDITORIAL STAFF CREATIVE DIRECTOR DESIGN STAFF PHOTO DIRECTOR PHOTO STAFF DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR DIGITAL TEAM CULINARY DIRECTOR CULINARY TEAM

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING TEAM WEBMASTER COMMUNICATIONS SOCIAL IMPACT CHAIR SOCIAL IMPACT TEAM EVENTS CHAIR EVENTS TEAM

Andie Goldmacher, Anushka Dasgupta, Ano Patel, Ayelet Gross, Clara Ke, Grace Busser, Isabel Fiato, Rebecca Jiang, Roger Ge, Talia Desai Monika Lee Alice Choi, Elizabeth Xu, Emily Xiong, Hailie Goldsmith, Ishaani Basu, Joyce He, Olivia Tang, Queenie Huang, Yune Kim Pinn Chirathivat Anna Feng, Daniel Shi, Emily Chen, Jasmine Young, Olivia Kim Isabelle Lin Aakanksha Malhotra, Alex Bardwell, Alex Won, Ananya Deb, Brandon Kong, Emily Liu, Nakyung Lee, Talia Desai Anna Feng Anh Ngo, Joey Wu, Shan Shan Liang, Annie Wang, Anya Arora, Ashrit Challa, Brigette Fuentes, George Drago, Jad Abouchalache, Kaya Patidar, Liam Umbs, Melody Cheng, Peyton Ronkin, Randy Bach, Rishin Sharma, Sharon Dong, Sophia Powell, Thrusha Puttaraju, Zain Salloum, Zoe Millstein Kade Shippy Amaliya Yunusova, Anna Metzger, I’deyah Ricketts, Irene Pak, Isabelle Glat, Rene Chen Vibha Makam Sienna Chen Qianhan Huang Caleb Yam, Jamie Yuen, Rebecca Jiang, Sienna Chen, Sophia Powell Eitan Goodman Emily Xi, Isabelle Glat, Isabelle Kauffman, Neha Jain, Sophia Powell

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR DEAR READER, I’m not that great of a cook. That’s a scandalous thing to reveal here, in the opening pages of the latest issue of Penn Appétit that I’ve spent the last few months working on, but it’s true. When I’m in the kitchen, beware. Mise en place? Never heard of her. Religiously following a recipe? Can’t imagine that. My style of cooking and baking is chaotic, countless ingredients spread across the island, a few of which I’ll likely forget to use and a few of which the recipe doesn’t even call for. What you won’t see are many measuring spoons or prep bowls (or, at least, you won’t see them actually used for prep). I guess my measurements most of the time, and even then I’ll often change my mind and add a little more of this, a little more of that, afterward. I like shaking things up, trying new things, adding a bit of spice. I try to rely on my own judgment as much as possible, though sometimes that manifests more in impulse versus instinct. Does everything turn out well? No, not always. I get it from my dad, only his dishes actually turn out well. (Most of the time. Sorry, Dada.) When he cooks, he has total command of the kitchen: he doesn’t always follow recipes, he knows just what spices to use, and he knows what works well with what. To him, recipes are guidelines, a framework to use if needed, but not something to listen to. He knows exactly what to do to spice up a dish. With The Spice Issue, we wanted to capture the diversity of spice. Spice unites us across cultures. Some are universal, like black pepper, and then there are some like star anise, shared by both Vietnamese and Mexican cuisines (among others) yet used differently in each. Spice is exciting and beautiful and powerful. The bold color, the variety, the depth and breadth can’t be ignored. There are so many ways to use and combine spices. Yet spice is more than just food. There’s a sense of family and connectivity — for many of us, spices and spicy foods are core elements of our memories and identity. Read on to find out how our favorite peppers got their names, meet the Korde family who have found community through lonsa, and discover new ways to spice up your baked goods. Explore the world through its endangered spices, learn how to build up your spice tolerance, and unpack the MSG myth. And the next time you’re in the kitchen, don’t forget to add a little spice. Just for fun. Here’s to spicing things up,

Emily

the menu

THE BARE NECESSITIES: FIVE SPICES YOU NEED IN YOUR KITCHEN SOMEWHERE NEAR HOME, SOMEWHERE IN SPICE, SOMEWHERE IN BENGAL ENDANGERED SPICES

WHAT WE’RE WATCHING A WORD ON CHILI OIL SPICE BLEND BREAKDOWN MSG: MISUNDERSTOOD, MALIGNED, MINE. CINNAMON 101: A CRASH COURSE PALATE IN A PICKLE SUGAR, SPICE, AND EVERYTHING NICE SPICE ADVICE: FOUR WAYS TO ELEVATE CHICKEN BRAVING THE HEAT AAJI’S LONSA WHAT’S IN A NAME: PEPPER EDITION

12 14 16

22 spice recipes 24 26

32 34 38

42 44

52 54

SHAKSHUKA UPSIDE DOWN CARMELIZED BANANA CAKE EGG WHITES ON EGG WHITES CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA MAPO TOFU CINNAMON CAYENNE BROWNIES ANTS CLIMBING ON A TREE MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE DIRTY CHAI ESPRESSO MARTINI

Spices make a world of difference in your food, especially if you’re grabbing some dining hall food quickly before your next class or meeting. Back home, I had spices filling up drawers and drawers, with some spillover into my pantry, but, now that I’m at college living in a dorm room, whenever I need a dash of spice in my food, I can’t seem to find any. Whether you’re in a dorm, apartment, or house, keep these essential spices around to truly make your kitchen or dorm space feel like home.

Salt

Pepper

Let’s start off strong with the most absolutely essential spice to keep in your dorm: salt (granted, salt isn’t technically a spice, but we cannot leave this off of the list). Salt is such a classic ingredient that you can never go wrong with it. There are so many varieties of salt, from chipotle to lime salt, but I recommend keeping basic table salt in your home at all times. Adding even a tiny pinch to anything can really elevate any meal.

Put some pep into your food with pepper! Like their best friend “salt,” there are so many variations, but I would stick with keeping a jar of just regular black pepper in your dorm. Not only helpful for if you need to sneeze, pepper is essential to add any little bit of flavor to your meal. Try sprinkling some pepper and salt into your next pasta dish or salad for a delicious bite.

Crushed Red Pepper

Garlic Powder

Don’t be crushed, I know you were waiting for this one. Crushed red pepper is an essential for anyone who likes a bit of fire. While this won’t transform any dish, this red spice will definitely add a bit of heat. Additionally, you can mix it with cumin and garlic powder to form an Indian spice blend that is delicious when sprinkled on literally anything. My friend’s mom made this for her to keep in her dorm and sprinkling it on Wawa mac & cheese makes it just *chef’s kiss* so good.

Imagine you bring up pasta from the dining hall, Wawa, or even one of the microwavable macs from CVS. You take out your fork (or spoon) and slowly take a bite of your dinner, but then you are disappointed by the lackluster taste. Suddenly your eyes widen and you spot the spice you need. You sprinkle a little bit of it on your pasta and instantly a punchy flavor hits your tongue. What was this spice you ask? Garlic powder! You may not think of garlic powder as an essential at first, but garlic powder will definitely be a spice you will be glad to have around.

Old Bay If you would like something with a little warmth, kick, and salt flavor, opt for Old Bay, or as I call it, “Old Bae.” Being a Maryland native I may have a bias to this spice, but I truly believe it makes any food taste good. This spice is a blend of paprika, celery salt, black pepper, dry mustard, and cumin. Sprinkle a little on your popcorn, fries, or poultry and you will see the magic this spice can do.

penn appétit 9

somewhere

near home,

somewhere

in spice,

somewhere in Bengal By ANUSHKA DASGUPTA Photos by PINN CHIRATHIVAT

omewhere in the words of Jhumpa Lahiri’s pages, I’m overwhelmed by the perfume of koraishutir kochuri, rui macher kalia, chingri macher malaikari, and chom chom. Her writing brings me back to the thatchy dining table of my grandma’s flat, specks of sunshine shimmering through the window panes on a lulling afternoon. Time stands still and nothing exists but me in this room, smells avowed. They’re the smells of home — the smells of Bengal. Food, of course, is art. Perhaps I didn’t realize it when I was younger, but now, I can see the way the colors of a thali — the deep yellow of mishti pulao, the plush, dark brown of kosha mangsho, and hints of green from cilantro and chili — ease into each other like a creamy, rich oil painting. My parents eat the food with their hands, letting the gravy stain their palms, their fingers seeping into the fusing dishes. Flavors of Bengal are simultaneously gentle and bold, tempered with love, each as passionately thought out as the nevxt. Spices are selectively incorporated in distinct ratios, leading to unique, layered flavor profiles. Bengali cuisine broadly refers to the cuisine of the eastern Indian subcontinent, specifically, Bangladesh and the Indian state of West Bengal. The region sits on the Ganges Delta and Bay of Bengal, leading to a heavy emphasis on seafood (particularly, fish and shrimp). The cuisine is shaped by the complex history of Mughal conquest, British colonialism, the Partition of Bengal, and cultural practices that have evolved over time. Dishes are often cooked in mustard oil, which possesses a pungent, sharp flavor. Spices are then tempered in hot, sizzling oil (creating a tarka), allowing them to “bloom,” enhancing flavor. On the whole, Bengali food is not characteristically spicy; rather, it includes surprising and unassuming nuances of sweet, bitter, tangy, and fragrant. A backbone of Bengali cuisine is the five-spice mix of panch phoron (a blend of jeera, methi, kalo jeera, mauri, and shorshe). Other notable spices include posto, radhuni seeds, cloves, turmeric, ground coriander, cumin, and cardamom. Flavors are further shaped by the addition of ingredients like raisins, gondhoraj lebu, and coconut, and cooking processes like kosha, where meat is cooked for a long time over a mix of high and low heat, making it tender, browning and deepening flavor.

A traditional meal may be multiple courses and will contain an array of rice, rotis, dal, chutney, and various vegetable, meat, and fish dishes. Some popular fish varieties include rui (roho labeo), katla (Catla), ilish (hilsha), pabda (Bangladeshi butterfish), and koi (Koi). Although fish and meat are ubiquitously considered delicacies, the cuisine is attentive to and heavily relies on vegetables and vegetarian dishes. Bengali cuisine is also notable for its sweets that are widely popular throughout India. Some are jilipi, roshogolla, laddu/darbesh, and mishti doi. Even the simplest of dishes are artfully thought of. In my mundane, at-home diet of rice, dal, and vegetable curries, I possibly lost sight of the profound history in every dish — the farms and land from which they came, the recipes cooked in the same house, those that were carried across continents. In the Interpreter of the Maladies, Lahiri writes, “They ate pickled mangoes with their meals, ate rice every night for supper with their hands. Like my parents, Mr. Pirzada took off his shoes before entering a room, chewed fennel seeds after meals as a digestive, drank no alcohol, for dessert dipped austere biscuits into successive cups of tea.” Bengali cuisine, like its people, is vibrant, diverse, and brilliantly created from a long lineage. From here, I can see my grandma’s nimble but rugged fingers clap down, molding a roti.

Each p i e c e imbues in her fingers, a process she does so easily, it’s almost religious. I’m reminded that food isn’t just the ingredients that make it. Food offers a sense of belonging, it’s a place, it’s the spices I taste from the hands of my ancestors, wherever I am in the world.

terms • koraishutir kochuri: fried puffy bread with a mildly-spiced pea filling • rui macher kalia: Rohu fish with spicy chillies, sour yogurt and tomatoes, and sweet fried onions and raisins • chingri macher malaikari: prawn curry in a coconut-based gravy chom chom: a saffron- and lemoninfused sweet coated with mawa flakes • mishti pulao: a fragrant, sweeter rice pilaf seasoned with turmeric, ginger, and cloves among others, with jewels of cashews and raisins • kosha mangsho: mutton seasoned with cloves, cinnamon, onion and garlic • jeera: cumin • methi: fenugreek seeds • kalo jeera: black caraway/nigella seeds • mauri: fennel seeds • shorshe: black mustard seeds • posto: ground poppy seeds • radhuni: technically, “Trachyspermum roxburghianum,” a flowering plant whose dried fruits are used for seasoning, aromatically similar to parsley and a similar taste to celery • gondhoraj lebu: Bengali lime — an indescribable fresh, tangy aroma • jilipi: glossy and almost saccharine, tangerine-orange, whimsical spirals of a fried rice- and urad daal- based batter, seasoned with fennel and cardamom • roshogolla: spongy dumplings of chhena (Indian cottage cheese), saturated in syrup • laddu/darbesh: bright orange or yellow flour- and ghee-based ball-shaped sweets, nutty, often incorporating jaggery and seeds • mishti doi: “sweet yogurt,” thick and delicately sweet, notable for its technical preparation, which includes a long simmering, cooked and served in reddish clay earthen pots penn appétit 11

By Rebecca Jiang Illustrated by Olivia Tang Spices are the catalysts of cooking— pinches of magic that somehow transform leavened dough into cardamom buns that evoke autumn warmth or grocery store chicken thighs into a blissful Thai Khao Soi. I used to always play with my mom’s spice cabinet as a kid, pretending her hot mustard powder was pixie dust and sprinkling it recklessly across the kitchen counter. Although I actually try to aim for the pan now, I still think spices are just as magnificent. The global demand for spices began several thousands of years ago, defining some of the world’s first international trade routes. Wealth of spices soon translated to wealth of flavor, which gave rise to affluent Europeans using spices to display their lives of luxury.

12 penn appétit

This unanticipated social and economic impact of spices has driven a turbulent history of colonization and even war between the Dutch and Portuguese, but it has also been responsible for economic development and the rich makeup of modern cuisines. However, the cultivation of spices faces increasing pressure from climate change and continued violence within the trade. Extreme and unpredictable weather patterns, as well as flooding and droughts, in many parts of the world are threatening crop production, which is especially dangerous given certain spices are concentrated in regions that are conditional for their growth. A prime example of this is within Pampore, Kashmir, a region that has long been tied to fields of beautiful purple saffron flowers. Known colloquially as the “saffron town,” Pampore is home to around 19,000 families that build their livelihoods

around saffron farming, and the spice is often called “red gold” due to the fact that it is the world’s most expensive spice — selling for $1,550 a pound. But harvest size has been decimated over the past two decades. A severe drought followed by flooding has created a hostile environment, as the soil loses the nutrients specific to saffron growth, and this has led many farmers in the region to sell their land in hopes of finding more lucrative practices. In addition, Kashmir is the most militarized region in the world, facing continuous oppression and violence due to conflict over the area between India and Pakistan. The military presence has directly impacted not only the farmers in South Kashmir, but the land itself, which is a disastrous complement to the existing climate change effects. Kahwa, a widely-consumed spiced green tea, rogan josh, slow-cooked lamb curry, and phirni, a sweet rice pudding all hold prized Kashmiri saffron as its medicinal and culinary heart. With the slow pace of change and continued environmental issues, the crop will grow even higher in price and eventually risk eradication. Our endangered spices journey continues southwest toward the island of Madagascar. Eighty percent of the world’s vanilla is grown there, but the coveted crop

is also facing the highest risk of extinction. The biggest environmental challenge in the region is deforestation, as most of the original forest cover has been lost due to slash-and-burn practices to make way for agriculture. This has contributed to water and soil degradation which is squeezing away vanilla production. What is just as pressing is the crime and corruption that lies behind the vanilla trade. Because the price of Madagascar

vanilla has soared to be more expensive per pound than silver, vanilla thieves (might be the most unique criminal category I’ve ever seen) have been targeting local farmers, which often remain unresolved by law enforcement or politicians. As a result, a shortage of natural vanilla is only becoming more prominent, and the dessert world may soon have to rely solely on its synthetic substitute. Our final stop lies in the Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca, Mexico, home to one of the rarest and sought-after chiles in the culinary world — pasilla Mixe. They have a particularly smoky, meaty flavor, and at harvest, they are taken to caves specially designed for smoking the chiles. Locally, they are utilized in a wide range of dishes, from flavor pastes in tortillas to being stuffed with Oaxacan cheese. Pasilla production is highly protected because of its cultural importance to the Mixes, and its rarity is due to its exclusive growth in the remote towns four hours away from Oaxaca City. But an issue of misinformation is threatening the hot commodity. Most of the local farmers are unaware of the pasilla’s monetary value outside of the Oaxaca region, causing wealthier

middlemen to resell the product at a steep upcharge. They also tend to be reluctant to implement more modern farming techniques out of tradition and foreign distrust, and are thus forced to accept low prices and yields. However, communitybased efforts and external investments from companies such as Vera Mexicana have been working to make market information more accessible. The disastrous weather events and nutrient degradation associated with climate change are bringing some of the world’s most loved and historically rich spices to extinction. Its impact doesn’t stop at these crops either, as core diet crops are also facing low productivity and decreased nutritional value. Addressing the way farmers are treated, paid, and the methods in which they grow will be vital to keeping our food systems intact and with them, the magic that spices add to our dishes.

penn appétit 13

14 penn appétit

HIGH ON THE HOG

For when you’re craving mindful entertainment

HOT ONES

For when you finally emerge from the rock you’ve been living under

High on the Hog reframes American food (“Black food is American food” reads its Netflix tagline) and traces the canon of recipes and foodways of the United States. Shaped by centuries of agricultural and culinary labor by African people and their descendants, Southern food is the foundation of American cooking. The show is celebratory and ebullient—an antidote to the aggressive politicization of Black joy.

Celebrity guests answer questions posed by host Sean Evans, accompanied by chicken wings of increasingly hotter sauce. It’s Season 17 now, and things are heating up: look out for interviews with your favorite big names.

WORDS ON BATHROOM WALLS

This is the show that proves that all stereotypes about Americans are based in truth. The show travels across the United States exploring unique “big foods” and taking on food challenges involving super-spicy or super-sized dishes.

High school sucks. Especially when you’ve just been diagnosed with schizophrenia. Words on Bathroom Walls follows seventeen-year-old Adam as he navigates young love, dreams of culinary school, and mental illness.

An endearing rom-com-dram, Master Cheng follows a Chinese chef who travels with his young son to a remote village in Finland in search of an old friend. The quest becomes one of cultural connection as Cheng’s cooking saves a local café and he becomes a celebrated member of the community.

THE SPICE TRAIL

For when you want the soothing experience of British ASMR but you also want to be *educated* The Spice Trail is a BBC docuseries that travels around the world exploring the history, production, and people of different spices. If you’re hungry for more info after reading Andie’s Cinnamon 101, stream an episode of this awesome series.

Young Tita is forbidden to marry her true love Pedro as tradition dictates that she must care for her mother. Obviously, Pedro marries Tita’s older sister instead. The story unfolds as Tita discovers a passion and talent for cooking. The title refers to the precision it takes to boil water to melt chocolate (no microwaves in early twentieth century Mexico) and the film is shot in delightful early ‘90s style. Don’t watch with your parents.

For when you want a magical romantic drama with Bollywood tendencies and a motorcycleriding, havoc-wreaking love interest

For when you feel like eating vicariously through your laptop

For when your cold heart needs a little warming

For when you want a tragic love story perfected by “meals spiced with passion”

THE MISTRESS OF SPICES

MAN V. FOOD

MASTER CHENG

LIKE WATER FOR CHOCOLATE

For when you need something to watch with friends

CRAZYHOT

For when you want to give yourself an ultrahot pepper obsession This documentary gives you all the information you never knew you needed about the spiciest peppers in the world. Over three continents, the documentary talks with farmers, scientists, food alchemists, and devoted “chileheads” who are using peppers in a myriad of ways.

SRIRACHA

For when you want to watch an award-winning documentary about an iconic sauce

Customers visit an eclectic store in the Bay Area in hopes of finding spices that will help to solve various problems (e.g. “sandalwood to dispel painful memories”). The shopkeeper, Tilo, is an Indian immigrant who has been appointed Mistress of Spices. Her life changes when she meets a young architect. What follows is a whirlwind of love, tradition, and loyalty.

RATATOUILLE

For when you wish there was a rat controlling your every move by pulling on different strands of hair This Pixar childhood classic stands the test of time and will give you a nostalgic desire for your EZBake oven. Remy (the rat) ends up in Paris and helps lovably idiotic garbage boy Linguini earn his place in the kitchen of a famous restaurant and the heart of its only female chef.

Enjoying a cult following, Sriracha delights the tastebuds of many diners, and often provides the perfect spicy, garlicky complement to a dish. What many fans don’t know is the story of where it came from. This documentary travels around the world to reveal Sriracha’s origin and the man behind the magic.

penn appétit 15

16 penn appétit

A WORD ON CHILI OIL By Talia Desai | Illustration by Monika Lee

he other day, my friend Ayesha told me about the best chili oil she ever had. GASP! Shocking, I know. “The best chili oil” is a strong label, but hear her out. This one sounded just delectable. To give some context: this is the chili oil from Pitruco Pizza at Franklin’s Table. In her words, the chili oil was “the most beautiful tangy spice that compliments the flavors of the tomato base of a pizza perfectly.” While I personally have not had this chili oil (because unfortunately I can not handle much heat), I would take her word for it as she loves all things spicy. This conversation led me to dive more into the realm of chili oil. With dozens of types of chili oil, this red, punchy sauce can be drizzled, dipped, or even drunk straight if you are brave enough. Pairing chili oil with just about any food will instantly elevate it. Bread? Dip the plain starch and let it absorb the oil. With each bite, you will be drawn to add more chili oil for just a hint of spice that leaves your mouth bursting with a tangy flavor. Salad? Drizzle your veggies with a bit of chili oil to liven those greens up. Especially for salads with a sweeter note, try dashing a bit of chili oil in for a delicious sweet-spicy combination. Pasta? Definitely add chili oil to any type of noodle from tortellini to ramen. Trust me (actually, trust my friends who are able to handle spice and do this), you won’t be able to go back to plain noodles with just a simple sauce without a bit of heat anymore. The list goes on and on, but the bottom line is that pairing chili oil with just about any meal is a simple way to add a major upgrade. Additionally, the health benefits are amazing! From preventing chronic disease and strengthening your immune system to protecting skin and calming inflammation, your whole body will thank you. Try making your own and experimenting with different types of oils and chilis. There’s even a recipe right here to start off with if you want :). PS: Unfortunately, Pitruco no longer sells this chili oil, so if you happen to create or taste what you think is the best chili oil please send it to my friend Ayesha as she is on the hunt for another chili oil that is as delicious.

Sichuan Chili Oil Recipe By Randy Bach

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • •

1 cup neutral vegetable oil 4 star anise 2 bay leaves 1 cinnamon stick 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorn ½ cup Sichuan chili flakes ½ tsp salt 1 tsp sesame seeds (optional) 1 clove of garlic, minced (optional) 2 thai chili peppers, thinly sliced (optional)

Directions 1.

Add oil to a saucepan along with your aromatics: star anise, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, and Sichuan peppercorns. Turn on medium heat until oil reaches 250° Fahrenheit, or until aromatics are at a very slow simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes for the aromatics to infuse into the oil, making sure they don’t burn in the process. This should be around medium-low heat, but turn down heat as necessary. In a heat safe bowl, add in Sichuan chili flakes as well as any optional additions to your chili oil, such as

sesame seeds, garlic, fresh chilis, etc. 4.

Take the pot off the stove and pour the oil through a strainer directly into the bowl with your chili flakes. Stir in salt and make sure all the chili flakes are incorporated. Take in the smell!

Pour chili oil into an airtight jar and seal for later use. Feel free to play around with aromatic proportions and additional toppings of your choice. Recommended to pair with sesame oil, soy sauce, or any of your favorite dishes for some extra fragrance and spice!

penn appétit 17

I eI bl l e nned r b eA A k kd d o w wn n Article and Illustrations by Randy Bach

asterchefs had to have been the ones who created spice blends. They were more than chefs — they were mad scientists, like Dr. Frankenstein. True visionaries. Not only do you have to understand each spice, individually poignant and complex, but also combine all of these spices into one perfectly balanced mixture. Or maybe someone just threw together their

18 penn appétit

favorite spices, gave it a name, and called it a day. Some spice blends even use other spice blends. It’s meta this way. Requiring a recipe within a recipe. Inception? Spice blends represent more than just seasonings and powders thrown together. They resemble the cumulation of all the spices that our ancestors had around them, combining into a

harmonious mixture that elevates all of our favorite dishes. They bring depth and character to your mom’s cooking, a latte from your favorite cafe, or that mom-and-pop takeout owned by the friendly old couple. On the next page, you’ll find a noncomprehensive origin story of some of our most popular spice blends. Time for a history lesson, nerds.

CURRY

CLOVES

CINNAMON NUTMEG

ALL SPICE

PUMPKIN SPICE Starting off with the most infamous blend: pumpkin spice. You can find it plastered on any fall dessert recipe or Starbucks menu. Originating from the first American cookbook — American Cookery — in 1796, our thirteen colonies went straight feral for pumpkin spice. However, some can argue we basically stole it from the British. Revenge, right? (I’m not ashamed to say that I thought this mix had pumpkin in it. Bad judgment on my part. I guess you wouldn’t need to add more pumpkin to a pumpkin dish.)

GINGER

Curry powder, I would have to say, wins hands down for most variations. Name any country, and they likely have their own take on curry. Originating from the Indian subcontinent, curry is derived from the word meaning “sauce” in Tamil and is commonly paired with rice. Funny enough, “curry powder” doesn’t really exist in India; they just have unique blends of spices depending on the region. With the one specific mix popularized throughout the world through trade, this explains the international phenomenon known as a good bowl of curry.

TUMERIC

CORIANDER SEEDS

OLD BAY

CINAMMON

STAR ANISE

FENNEL SEEDS

SESAME SEEDS CLOVES

OREGANO

FENUGREEK

I blame Old Bay for my YouTube mukbang obsession in 2017. Packaged in the iconic yellow can, Old Bay was founded in Maryland by a German refugee from World War II, with the seasoning mix originally named “Delicious Brand Shrimp and Crab Seasoning.” Properly named for its prominence in seafood dishes, it adds that sweet and spicy kick to shrimp and crab favorites. Maybe we can tone it down a bit, though, because questionably Old Bay ale and ice cream exists.

FIVE SPICE SUMAC

THYME

ZA’ATAR Originating in the Middle East, Za’atar can take on many forms: an herb, condiment, or spice mix; most notably, it’s said to have biblical roots, referencing the “ezov” herb. Across countries, there are also many differences depending on regional specialities. With these combinations of herbs and spices, it manages to balance earthy, nutty, and tangy tones while acting as a powerful antioxidant blend. The scent of freshly baked Manakish Za’atar is like nothing else.

If you grew up in a Chinese or Asian American household, your cupboard probably smells like five spice. This mix is based on the balance of yin and yang and the interplay of the five flavor profiles, and it’s been used for its medicinal properties for thousands of years. Commonly used in meat dishes or marinating, it gives the distinct fragrance and sweetness to many Asian and Pacific Island cuisines. Different regions call for more than five spices, giving each local area a distinct flavor. The five spice would still be called five spice though (not six spice, seven spice….?!).

RED PEPPER

BAY LEAF

CELERY SEEDS

PAPRIKA

penn appétit 19

ARTICLE BY CLARA KE ARTWORK AND DESIGN BY AVA SAKAMOTO AND MONIKA LEE My mother had a scandalous secret. Watching her stir-fry our dinner one night, I saw the usual seasonings tumble into the wok: salt, soy sauce, cooking wine. Then out of the pantry came something I’d never seen before — a squat can striped in gold, green, and red. I watched her take a tiny spoonful and tap it gently into the simmering sauce. “What is that?” I asked her. “Chicken powder,” she replied without even a glance. I wandered over to inspect the can, reading the ingredients out loud. Salt, maltodextrin, dehydrated chicken meat, sugar, monosodium glutamate— I did a double take. “Ma, you put MSG in our food?” She looked up only to shrug. “It helps flavor the dish.” I was appalled. My own mother. Using MSG. The stuff I imagined looked like crack dumped into greasy, flavorless Chinese-American takeout. For years I’d been working to debunk my nonChinese friends’ myths about our food. “Real Chinese food,” I’d say, “isn’t oversauced or soggy. Chop suey isn’t a thing. And we certainly don’t use MSG.” Yet here we were in the kitchen. Watching my mother put MSG into our food. It wasn’t always like this though, our disgust at MSG. Think about the name: monosodium glutamate. There’s the way it rolls off the tongue and coats it, like the first lick of spaghetti sauce or the creaminess of brie. After all, glutamate is umami, that pleasant, savory taste that isn’t quite sour or sweet, salty or bitter. Glutamate was never anything insidious. It’s an amino acid found in all animal and plant proteins, the molecule key to our neurons firing fast enough to read this sentence. The creator of MSG, Dr. Kikunae Ikeda, never intended for it to be a substitute for flavor. His muse was his wife’s kombu dashi, the taste of which

inspired him to seek to distill that everelusive flavor in 1908. Ikeda marketed his umami crystals as ajinomoto, the “essence of taste.” It was a way to enhance the otherwise bland flavors of everyday Japanese peasantry — a taste of meaty luxury rarely found amidst the inescapable mundanity of vegetables and rice. Ikeda simply wanted everyone to be able to have a little touch of umami heaven in their food, just like in his beloved dashi. For a moment, MSG seemed to say, you could feel as if you had feasted like a king. While MSG quickly became a mainstay in many Asian kitchens, it was only in the 1920s and ‘30s that MSG came to the US, where it solidified its place in industrial cooking. It was the messiah of processed foods: MSG could accentuate pleasant flavors while suppressing undesirable ones, defying the laws of time to create near-immortally delectable vittles. Companies like Campbell’s and Heinz liberally sprinkled it into their soups and frozen dinners, evangelizing the post-war masses to the magic of MSG. Soon enough, it found its way into American kitchens as well. Ac’cent, a domestic MSG brand that began in the 1940s, was listed in recipe books all the way until the 1970s. In 1968 though, a Dr. Robert Ho Man Kwok wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine reporting an episode of headache, weakness, and palpitations after eating at an American Chinese restaurant. Dubbing the experience “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome”, he hypothesized several ingredients as possible causes. One of them was MSG. Kwok’s letter spawned a flurry of responses among the medical community, ranging from reports of similar symptoms after eating Chinese takeout to claiming that “excessive” use of MSG in Chinese food could lead to brain lesions. Although he stressed that this was purely speculative, researchers fixated on the fact that it was apparently a Chinese phenomenon. The New York Times caught wind of the hubbub, setting off a chain of sensationalist journalism and paranoia. Eating Chinese takeout, it seemed, was no better than ingesting cyanide.

Although WHO and the UN Food and Agricultural Organization jointly concluded that MSG was safe in moderate consumption in 1987, the MSG controversy only legitimized racialized discourse surrounding Chinese food, the echoes of which remain today. For years there had been a quietly lingering suspicion about the “exotic,” “bizarre,” and possibly “dangerous” practices associated with Chinese culture. After all, could you really trust a place full of people that ate snakes and dogs? Even as Chinese immigrants buried their origins in a saucy, oversaturated shield and created their Frankenstein chop suey and General Tso’s chicken, Chinese food wasn’t allowed to be American. It betrayed the unspoken belief in the eternal “otherness” of the Chinese immigrant. No one batted an eye when companies rebranded their MSG to “hydrolyzed vegetable protein” or “autolyzed yeast.” No one batted an eye at their hotdogs slathered with ketchup or canned chicken noodle soup. But no one hesitated to point their fingers at Chinese restaurants, at people like me. Whatever they did would never be enough. I, America told me, would never be enough. Maybe that’s why I despised the idea of MSG in my mother’s cooking. I was tired of my food, my people, being demonized for everything we did to make a home for ourselves in the US. Why did I have to keep justifying myself when Big Food was even more of an MSG culprit? Why couldn’t I be unashamed about sprinkling a bit of luxury into my own food, momentarily forgetting the bitterness of racism that sat in my stomach and instead savoring the taste of kinship and family? Love could be chicken soup in powdered form. Love could be the seasoning packet I’d gleefully crumble into a bag of snack ramen. Love could be a Japanese scientist craving the taste of home so much he blew molecules apart to piece them together again. Love, maybe, just maybe, could be MSG. Because for a minute, it reminds me that I’m part of a dynasty. One that is resilient. Beautiful. Mine.

penn appétit 21

CINNAMON 101 A CRASH COURSE ARTICLE BY ANDIE GOLDMACHER PHOTO BY OLIVIA KIM Call me basic if you want, but my favorite spice of all time is cinnamon. Yes, there are a lot of quirky spices out there, but you just can’t go wrong with cinnamon. If its warm, fragrant aroma and naturally sweet taste isn’t enticing enough, you can literally dust cinnamon powder on anything, sweet or savory, to elevate it from basic to beyond delicious. From French toast to sweet potatoes to curries, the uses for cinnamon are endless. So, I’m going to give you the knowledge about cinnamon you didn’t know you needed, from its history to its production to its uses in different cultures around the world. If you’re not convinced already, by the end of this crash course you’ll realize that cinnamon is the best spice on the planet.

HISTORY LESSON

Cinnamon comes from the bark of different species of evergreen trees. The spice is native to Sri Lanka, the Malabar Coast of India, and Myanmar, though it’s also harvested in South America and the West Indies. Cinnamon has a long history of human use. Chinese writings in 2800 B.C. were the first to mention the spice. Ancient Egyptians found cinnamon more valuable than gold and used the spice for embalming and other religious practices. Medieval European physicians used cinnamon in medicine to treat coughing, hoarseness, and sore throats. The spice was also used for religious rites, flavoring, and preserving meat due to the phenols that stop the bacteria responsible for spoilage and the sweet fragrance that masks the scent of aging meats. Cinnamon quickly became the most profitable spice in the Dutch East India Company trade, so much so that the Dutch captured the world’s largest supplier of cinnamon, the island of Ceylon — presentday Sri Lanka — from the Portuguese, and

22 penn appétit

controlled the island from 1658 to 1796. By 1833, cinnamon no longer needed to be monopolized, as harvesters realized the spice could be grown in tropical areas all around the world from Indonesia to South America to the Caribbean.

CINNAMON LAB: HOW IT’S HARVESTED

Each species of cinnamon is grown in different areas, has different flavor profiles, and is harvested in different ways. Cassia, the most commonly sold type of cinnamon in North America, is harvested primarily in China, Vietnam, and Indonesia, and is considered hotter and more intense than the rarer and more expensive Ceylon cinnamon, native to, you guessed it, Sri Lanka. Cassia has a hard, hollow, cylinder shape, whereas Ceylon cinnamon is more pliable and can be rolled like a cigar. Cassia is traditionally harvested in a small-scale, hands-on, environmentallyconscious manner. Evergreen trees are planted and harvested anytime after ten years, often harvested when local farmers need money. Harvesters chop off cassia trees’ branches then cut down the entire tree to peel off the outer bark, revealing the cinnamon, which curls into quills as it dries. These curls can be left as cinnamon sticks or ground into powder. The cassia harvest is a long process: once a tree is cut down another cannot grow from the root stump for a few generations. But farmers can harvest cassia trees during any time of year since they are working with bark and not fruit, and the trees can be harvested twice a year after heavy rain. Cinnamon is a naturally sustainable crop since cinnamon forests grow without agrochemicals and can be intercropped with other trees. To export local harvesters’ cinnamon, Cassia Co-ops in Indonesia connect farmers directly with customers to create a more

transparent supply chain and work with the farmers to raise the quality and cost of the cinnamon.

COURSE APPLICATION: HOW CINNAMON IS USED

Cinnamon is used in various dishes around the world, from American sticky buns and Tunisian baharat-spiced chicken to Iranian stuffed apples and Sri Lankan dhal, as well as for medicinal and health purposes. Cinnamon is the richest in antioxidants of all the spices, even surpassing “superfoods” such as garlic and oregano. Cinnamon has also been linked to reducing heart disease, reducing insulin resistance, lowering blood sugar levels, reducing neurodegenerative diseases, reducing the growth of cancer cells, combatting various infections, and fighting HIV. Cinnamon even has a powerful role in popular culture. I’m sure you remember the viral internet cinnamon challenge most popular in 2012, where participants would post a video of themselves eating a spoonful of ground cinnamon. Cinnamon has also been promoted in pop culture to aid with weight less by reducing the effects of some high-fat foods due to its antiinflammatory and antibacterial properties, as well as its fiber content which helps increase feelings of fullness at meals.

COURSE WRAP-UP

So next time you’re biting into a gooey, soft cinnamon roll (National Cinnamon Roll Day is October 4th!), think of how you’re actually being healthy by loading your body with antioxidants, and the journey that warm spice took around the world and throughout history.

penn appétit 23

Palate in a Pickle

Article by Ano Patel | Illustrations by Monika Lee

or as long as I can remember, summer vacations meant a trip to my grandparents’ house in the village. It’s peak mango season. The minute I enter the kitchen, I see the floor laden with freshly plucked raw mangoes. Ma would cut these mangoes into small pieces using a giant cutter, while I sat cross-legged on the floor and helped my grandma salt the mango cubes. We would spread out the cubes on the rooftop to sun-dry them over the next few days, after which Grandma would mix them in her special (and secret) spice mix, then dunk them into oil and put it in an air-tight barni (handcrafted, glossy ceramic jar that is typical to Indian households to store pickles for 1-2 years), to be sun-dried again for the next few weeks. Years after my grandparents passed on, this tradition has stayed with me. Only now, Ma and I follow this routine ourselves. Pickles are an integral part of Indian meals. They add a touch of sweet, sour, savory spiciness to every meal, and can be paired with flatbreads, rice, curries, salads — just about anything. While pickles are a common spicy addition to a meal across

the country, the recipe and process is unique to every household, resulting in a plethora of pickles to choose from. Pickles, more commonly known as achaar in Hindi, pachadi in Telugu, loncha in Marathi, athanu in Gujarati, and urukai in Tamil — among other names — has a rich cultural history that dates back over 4,000 years. Over many generations, pickling has become an art — an art of grinding spices in a specific way and knowing the perfect blend, an art of fermentation to give a natural tanginess, an art of cooking through intuition without measurements, and an art of tickling the taste buds. With the advent of all-season fruits and veggies and modern kitchen equipment, it is now possible to pickle anything from vegetables to fruits, berries, gourds, leaves, shoots, roots, and even aromatics such as garlic! Even for the carnivores, pickles are a treat. While in the far east pickled beef and dried fish with bamboo shoots make the perfectly spicy condiment for every meal, down south makes the most of prawns and fish pickles. It’s not just about adding the touch of spice to every meal. Pickles are deeply

embedded in cultural traditions across India. For instance, for Parsis in Gujarat, a state in western India, serving lagan nu achar (wedding pickle) to the elders of the family is the first step toward formalizing a wedding match, while in the far eastern state of Meghalaya, the Karbi tribe has a special folk dance that enacts the recipe of their bamboo pickle. While western pickles are stored in a salt/vinegar brine, Indian pickles use oil (typically mustard or sesame) as the main preservative. Some Hyderabadi pickles also use limestone as a preservative, while mahali pickles use yogurt. Making pickles the traditional way is now a dying art. The process is timeconsuming, spanning several weeks, and labor-intensive. Traditional homemade pickles are being quickly replaced by factory-made, mass-produced jar pickles with artificial preservatives. However, they miss the magic of the love and affection that comes with preparing it with the family. I cherish the summer days I spend preparing pickles with my mother, and hope to pass on the recipes to the next generation someday!

recipe: mango pickle aka aam ka achaar This traditional condiment is made with raw mangoes, spices, and oil, and is relished as a side with all meals at home. Here is my family recipe for readers who’d like to enjoy a burst of flavor with every bite!

note: Everything that you use for making pickles (the spices, the jar, etc.) should be moisture-free and absolutely dry.

ingredients • • • • • • • • •

¼ cup Fenugreek seeds (methi) ¼ cup Fennel seeds (saunf) ¼ cup Mustard seeds (yellow sarson) ¼ cup Nigella seeds (kalonji) 3 tablespoons Turmeric powder ¼ cup Red chili powder 1 kg Raw mango 4 cups Salt 3 cups Mustard oil

directions 1.

Wipe the mangoes clean with a wet and dry cloth. Chop them into 1.5-inch pieces. Put the chopped mangoes in a glass bowl. Salt them and put them out in the sun to dry for 1-2 days. Take them inside after sunset.

Add the ground spices to the mangoes and along with turmeric powder and red chili powder. Mix well so that the spices uniformly coat all the mango pieces.

Add salt (it should taste a little extra salty)

10. On the 4th day, add 2.5 cups of mustard oil so that the mangoes and spices are well covered in oil.

Add ½ cup mustard oil.

11.

Seal the lid tightly and put it in a cool, dry place for 4-5 days more.

12.

Enjoy it with your meals!

In a pan, roast all the spices for 2-3 minutes.

Add the spices to a food grinder and grind into a coarse powder.

Store in a clean, dry glass/ceramic jar. Seal the lid tightly.

After 2 days, take the mango pieces. You will feel that the skin has tenderized.

Put it in the sunlight for 3-4 days. When you bring the jar inside every night, stir

it gently with a clean, dry spoon. On the 3rd day, you will see the oil floating on top.

penn appétit 25

Sugar, Spice, and Everything Nice ARTICLE BY AYELET GROSS || PHOTOS BY PINN CHIRATHIVAT RECIPE BY LIAM UMBS

or better or for worse, baking is synonymous with sweet flavors. Whether it be vanilla, chocolate, caramel, funfetti, or anything in between, desserts have been historically dominated by sugary decadence. But there can be more! Nobody restricts appetizers, mains, and sides to just savory flavors, so who says that confections need to be overwhelmingly sweet? Adding spice to dessert is a superb way to cut through the sweetness and introduce a rounded, deeper flavor to any dish. In all fairness…this isn’t a new idea. Plenty of baked goods incorporate the fall spices: cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and cloves. These flavors actually compose some of the most mainstream baked-goods. Think spice cake, gingerbread people, and molasses cookies. Yet, while cloves and cinnamon are certainly home-y and delicious in their own right, this particular brand of flavors doesn’t exactly scream “punchy.” So, there has been a rising trend of more outlandish spices to pack desserts with even funkier flavors. Incorporating unique spices into baked goods shouldn’t be daunting at all. In fact, it’s as simple as mixing a tablespoon of spice into the batter or sprinkling some sea salt atop the final product. Brownies are the perfect beginner dessert for some spice experimentation. To make a bold, hot statement in any chocolate dish, add a few shakes of smoked paprika, chili powder, or cayenne pepper. The rich chocolate flavor blends wonderfully with any zing of heat. Paprika is the most mild of the bunch

26 penn appétit

and adds both subtle heat and color. Chili powder and cayenne become increasingly hotter, so it is important to gauge one’s own spice tolerance before adding them into the mix. Cakes and cupcakes can also benefit from the addition of unique spices, but it is important to think through their broader flavor palette before rummaging through the spice cabinet. Though technically herbs, dried rosemary and basil pair beautifully with citrus or olive oil cakes, and contribute a subtly woodsy tone to deepen the dessert. Or consider adding turmeric to fruity desserts to fuse an earthy flavor and balance out the extra sugar. Poppy seeds are also a different way to add appearance and texture to any lightly-seasoned cake. Cookies require a careful moderation of spices, partially due to the smaller portions and potential for clumping. Replacing the table salt with sea salt in a cookie includes a crunchy texture and a well-distributed salty flavor. Tahini and sesame make excellent additions to plain or chocolate chip cookie batter and imbue a smooth, Mediterranean flavor. Coriander possesses a light, floral essence perfect for any spring cookie, while mint serves as a refreshing base all by itself. The potentials for spiced desserts are endless. Incorporating bold and savory flavors is perhaps the best way to add originality and a unique perspective to baking, while also cutting the sweetness in a dish. As the saying goes, “sugar, spice, and everything nice.” Why settle for just sweetness?

Chai-Spiced Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting and Candied Ginger Topping Ingredients: Frosting • • • •

2 cup Cream cheese, softened 8 cups Powdered sugar 1 tsp Vanilla 2 tbsp milk

Candied Ginger • • • •

4 ounces fresh ginger, thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick) 2 cup water Pinch of salt 1/2 cup sugar + extra for coating finished pieces

Cupcake • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1/2 cup hot milk 1 chai tea bag 3 1/2 cup flour 1 cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 3 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp ginger 1/2 tsp allspice 1/2 tsp cloves 1/2 tsp nutmeg

• • • • •

1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup butter, melted 4 tsp vanilla extract 4 eggs 3 cup carrots, grated

penn appétit 27

28 penn appétit

Instructions For cake

For ginger

For frosting

Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare three 8-inch cake pans.

Peel ginger and slice thinly using a knife or mandoline.

Steep a bag of chai tea in hot milk for several minutes. Proceed with next steps while waiting for the tea to steep and milk to cool.

Place ginger in small saucepan and cover with 2 cups of water, or enough to cover all the ginger. Add pinch of salt.

Beat together softened cream cheese and powdered sugar in stand mixer on high speed.

Stir in vanilla and milk.

Mix at high speed for 2-3 minutes until smooth.

Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let cool in refrigerator.

Stir together flour, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt and the spices in stand mixer with paddle attachment.

Stir in oil, melted butter and vanilla. Add in eggs one at a time, mixing at high speed until well combined.

Remove teabag from milk and pour in, mix at high speed.

Stir in grated carrots.

Scoop batter into prepared pans.

Bake for 20-22 minutes at 350°F. Let cool before frosting.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat and strain ginger from water in a bowl. Discard half of the water and place the remaining water and the ginger back in the saucepan.

Add sugar, and bring back to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn down heat and simmer for 20 minutes, being careful not to burn the ginger. The mixture should thicken significantly and the ginger should absorb the syrup and become sticky.

Assembly 1.

Stack cakes by spreading frosting in between layers. Frost top and sides of threelayer cake.

Remove ginger pieces from baking sheet and mix with sugar to coat.

Place candied ginger pieces on top of cupcakes.

Remove from heat and strain any remains syrup, if there is any. Spread out ginger pieces on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and let cool for 2 hours.

penn appétit 29

s p i c e

advice: FOUR WAYS TO ELEVATE CHICKEN When thinking of the typical diet of a college student, a few staples come to mind: boxed mac and cheese, chicken, rice. Pretty much whatever requires the least amount of work and takes the least amount of time. Now, I’m not saying this is a bad thing, but for some of us, the repetition of the same three meals gets old, fast. We all know Annie’s mac and cheese recipe has been perfected, so how can we spice up our chicken to give our palates some diversity? Here are four spice blends that will have you craving chicken every night.

ARTICLE BY ISABEL FIATO PHOTO BY EMILY CHEN 30 penn appétit

If you’re in need of caffeine:

If you like it smoky:

A mocha brown sugar rub will be sure to act as a pick-me-up, as the coffee grounds are exactly what you need to power you through a long night of studying. Mixing together coffee grounds, light brown sugar, chili powder, and grated chocolate to taste will achieve this decadent blend. The ingredients individually are heavenly, and together they make the perfect mix for a Monday night dinner.. Typically, chefs cooking with a mocha brown sugar rub will use two ingredients that are prominent in Mexican cuisine: Mexican chocolate and star anise. While we are all familiar with chocolate, star anise is a spice that not many have had the chance to experience. Its sweet and licorice-like flavor is unique and pairs well with the bitterness of Mexican chocolate.

This spice rub will have your chicken tasting as if it came straight off of the barbeque. The key ingredients are smoked paprika, celery salt, chili powder, and cumin. Achieving the perfect blend, however, requires a balance between smoky and sweet. This is where sugar, usually turbinado sugar, comes into play. There are three types of paprika that pop up in many recipes: smoked, sweet, and hot. Diving deeper into the types of paprika, there are basic, Hungarian, and Spanish paprikas as well. Basic paprika is the type you buy at the grocery store and is typically mild. Hungarian paprika has eight different flavors, ranging from mild to spicy. Last but not least, is smoked Spanish paprika, or pimentón, made from peppers that are smoke-dried. No matter your paprika of choice, this spice blend is sure to be a crowd-pleaser.

If you’re craving Chipotle: Niche, I know, but we all have those days, and a chipotle chicken rub is exactly what you need. Try out this blend with friends and have a build-your-own-burrito-bowl night. It’s cheaper, more fun, and just as good as going to Chipotle. A winning Chipotle spice blend has chili powder, cumin, smoked paprika, onion and garlic powder, and dried oregano. For an extra kick, try adding two types of chili powder to your blend: dark chili powder and chipotle chili powder. All chili powders contain dried and ground hot peppers along with cumin, garlic, and oregano as their foundation, and differ by their added ingredients. Dark chili powder typically contains more ancho pepper, giving it a darker color. Chipotle chili powder has chipotle peppers in it, hence the name.

If you’re too broke for Chinese takeout: The struggles of a college student. Good thing we can make Chinese five-spice chicken and imitate your favorite hole-in-thewall Chinese restaurant that you stumbled upon one day. A typical Chinese five-spice blend includes ground star anise, cloves, Chinese cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorns, and fennel seeds, but feel free to add in other spices like ginger, nutmeg, or anything else you think will enhance your dish. We need some additional ingredients to make this spice blend pop. Consider marinating your chicken with soy sauce, minced garlic and red onion, dry cooking sherry, and sesame oil. Honey adds a nice glaze to the chicken as well, especially when oven-roasted.

The next time you’re cooking chicken for the second night in a row, give one of these recipes a try for a change. Each and every recipe can be adapted to your preferences based on spice tolerance, allergies, and what you have in your pantry. penn appétit 31

Article by Emily Truong Photo by Jasmine Young

Braving the Heat A

t my grandparents’ house, there’s always a small dish of sliced Thai chili peppers, each a vibrant red or a bright green, only slightly larger than a pencil eraser in diameter. It gets passed around the table, quickly depleted by eager chopsticks. There’s a potted plant, somewhere in the house, where my grandmother grows them. She can eat them whole with no flicker of pain. It’s incredibly impressive. The harvested chilis that haven’t been sliced and eaten yet sit whole in a snack-size plastic bag, dormant but ready to strike. I’ve always avoided these chilis like the plague. I picked them out of my food and violently shook my head every time my grandparents, parents, or other relatives offered them to me. My spice tolerance was so low that I was scared to add even the tiniest squirt of Sriracha onto my bánh mì. I didn’t understand why everyone else liked eating them or why they didn’t mind the burning pain or runny nose. That didn’t seem enticing. At all. Sometimes, as I’d help set the table for dinner, my dad would pass me two serving

32 penn appétit

bowls. The same dish was scooped into each, one spicy and one not. “That one’s for you.” I’d peer closer, sniff it a little, suspicious that he’d added a little kick anyway. I appreciated having a separate mild dish, yet as time went on, and as I watched my sister shift from eating from the non-spicy bowl to the spicy bowl, I couldn’t help but wonder if I was missing out.

But that’s the thing with comfort zones: even if you’re curious about the world beyond, you never want to leave them behind. Occasionally, I would try a cautious bite of things that my mom claimed only had a “small kick,” but I never got past the first few bites. I needed a push if I were to ever finish the plate. My push came in the form of a bowl of

popcorn chicken drizzled with spicy mayo, an unintentional mistake as I rushed in and out between classes. I was hungry, it was there in front of me, and I hated the idea of wasting an entire meal. The first bites had me chugging from my water bottle, but I bravely endured. For the first time, I understood the allure of spicy food. I felt that euphoria, that excitement, that sense of accomplishment. The pain from the heat was still there, of course, but that euphoric sensation, that runner’s high (this time achieved without the exercise), was enough to draw me back in. Soon enough, I stopped throwing out the chili powder packets whenever my sister and I made midnight ramen. And the cycle continued: tossing crushed red pepper flakes on top of my pizza. Swapping out my go-to mild barbeque sauce for the (slightly) hotter option. No longer hesitating before grabbing a second bowl of bún bò Huế, a spicy Vietnamese noodle dish that my great-aunt makes for special occasions. The act of eating spicy foods was no longer something I associated with raw heat

and pointless pain. Instead, my newfound, though still relatively weak, tolerance felt refreshing. There were new foods and new food combinations that became available to me: everything that I had previously snubbed or been too scared to try was now on the table. Spice and heat became something that was fun — it felt like a game, testing my tolerance, discovering where the boundaries of that tolerance stood, and then trying to push against those boundaries. I’m still working up to my grandparents’ level, though, and I don’t know if I’ll ever reach that tolerance. . .

. . . but for now, those small yet mighty Thai chilis are a nice goal to look forward to.

Building up your spice tolerance 101 1. Be prepared

Decide on your ‘neutralizer’ and have it ready beside you for those fiery first bites. Dairy is great for breaking down the capsaicin (the chemical that makes chili peppers hot) you’ve consumed, but anything that’s starchy, sugary, fatty, or oily will help. Avoid cold water (and other drinks that are mostly water) if you can — it may provide temporary relief, but it’ll only spread the capsaicin around your mouth.

2. Start small

Try bites of milder foods and figure out what your baseline tolerance is. It’ll differ from person to person, depending on genetics, psychology, and other factors that my English-major brain can’t quite understand.

3. Up the heat … slowly

Don’t get too excited. It’ll take time to build up your tolerance. Slow and steady wins the race. Try eating spicy foods regularly, gradually increasing the heat level. Push the boundaries, but don’t assume you can knock them down.

4. Reevaluate

Your stomach may hate you after all this. And that’s okay. Spicy food isn’t for everyone, and everyone’s tolerance is different. Keep ordering the mild version if that’s what you decide — no judgment here! But if you want to keep going, experiment a little. Find your favorite sauces and peppers and figure out what you like eating them with. Have fun with it.

penn appétit 33

Some see food as just another form of love. Some see it as family. With AAJI’S, a small business run by the Korde family, they take this literally. “Aaji” roughly translates to “grandma” in Marathi, the language of the coastal Indian state of Maharashtra, and their family lonsa — a tomato spread that makes them stand out amongst the competition of dips, sauces, and salsas — is a product decades in the making. From recipes passed down through generations to new innovations fostered during the COVID pandemic, AAJI’S lonsa is a special condiment to me and the community, in more ways than one. Sienna and I met Rajus and his wife Poorva at a local farmer’s market in Old City. 34 penn appétit

We were instantly drawn to their quaint stand that had a diverse spread of spices as well as old family photographs. Hearing about the humble beginnings of their company, my ears instantly perked — I was drawn to that warm friendliness that I missed so much, being so far away from home and old friends. Being fortunate enough to interview them and Rajus’ parents, Arvind and Vijoo (Aaji!), I now know to cherish family more than ever. The Korde family is just one story among many in Philly, and it’s essential that we keep these stories alive. It’s easy to have a Penn-centric view as a student, but in my journey to understanding the different walks of life that

are so prominent in the Philly community around me, I can’t wait to learn about the experiences of more Philadelphia citizens, all equally complex and human. Besides their message and backgrounds, you can’t deny that AAJI’S Tomato Lonsa packs a punch of flavor; I’ll never view any tomato product the same way again. I’ll look forward to seeing Rajus and his family again whenever I visit Clark Park or Headhouse for a weekend walk. I know their welcoming ambience and bright smiles will be there waiting for me. **This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Start-Up Randy: Give me a rundown. How did AAJI’S come to be? Poorva: Where should I start? We had a baby two weeks before the pandemic was official. We had lots of plans for all the support we were going to have — going back to our jobs, everything like that. All of that flew out the window, as it did for everybody in the entire world, right? Aaji: We started sending food from Michigan because we wanted to supply their family with nutritious food. We were doing that for a few months and then at some point, we realized — it’s senseless! They were in Philadelphia while we were in Michigan, sitting by ourselves. We decided to move to Philadelphia for a few months to be close with them, and we thought the pandemic would be over within those few months. Well, long story short, it continues. Randy: I remember schools announcing a prolonged spring break. Longest spring break ever. Poorva: Before our parents moved here, they would send prepared frozen boxes of Indian food and some American dishes — food for our kids and food for us — and it took care of all of our meals for the week. It was a labor of love for Aaji to do it again and again during the height of the pandemic. Rajus: I also want to talk about how fortunate we were that we could experience this in a time when so many people were in pain and suffering alone. That sparked our mission for what we had to do. Others needed to experience love in this way, so when our parents came to Philadelphia, we started to have more formal conversations about creating a food business. Aaji: Rajus came up with this wonderful idea, because food has always been a very integral part of our family. I grew up seeing my mother cook for people when they were sick, when they were in need. It was always very healing, nurturing, and comforting. That was how I grew up. It was the same in my husband’s family. Randy: It’s amazing how strong of a relationship that your family has with each other. Really emphasizes the aspect of family in your brand. I’m guessing that’s how the name of AAJI’S came to be? Rajus: We all centered on one idea very, very quickly because, one, it’s authentic. It’s our ideas and recipes, coming from my mother, her mother, or my father’s mother, or her maternal and paternal grandmothers. Really, all these dishes were either passed down from grandmothers or great grandmothers. The wisdom, the compassion, the love, the strength in all cultures that you

know — Abuela, Nona, or whatever it is — it means something.You know when your grandmother is cooking something that it is done with such love. Randy: Would you say the message of AAJI’S is based on family? On the food itself?

an uplift center for grieving children. With around one in five children in Philadelphia having experienced loss, they provide a lot of resources, so we’re formalizing that relationship. That’s an important part of our mission and who we want to be. Sienna: I think it’s great that you plan to give back to the community. I’m sure it means a lot to your family and to everyone else in Philly.

The Lonsa Rajus: Food has been our source of love and comfort. For us, it was represented in times of joy, but also in times of sadness. It had always served such a strong purpose. We began this company with the mission to demonstrate love through the food we serve and the good we do. That’s really the driving force behind our ideas. After facing tragedy in the family, our lives changed completely. We were searching for meaning and purpose. Or even more, we were searching to do something with meaning and purpose. We are still trying to formalize the giving aspect to AAJI’S, but it will be for those who have lost or encountered tragedy in their lives, that is to support them. Specifically, we’re starting with Uplift Philly,

Randy: I’ve personally never heard of lonsa before trying AAJI’S. Wish I did earlier. How do you think your tomato lonsa stands out in Indian cuisine? I’ve tried lots of Indian restaurants around Philly but AAJI’S lonsa was super unique to me. Aaji: When Rajus decided to experiment with all these foods, we always thought that coastal Indian cuisine was not represented in the United States. Rajus: One theme or trend in the food space that I think excited us is this regionalization of food. We felt that there’s that same opportunity, given our cuisines from the coastal states of Maharashtra and Goa. It’s not really that prevalent in the U.S. If you Google lonsa or lonche, you will find other people’s home recipes, but you’re not penn appétit 35

gonna find it at a restaurant. Poorva: I would say lonsa is more of a category, and within Marathi cuisine, there are different types of lonsa. Not every house in Maharashtra makes tomato lonsa.

Arvind: Vijoo’s family has been making it for over 70 years. Their tomato lonsa has a unique preparation for it. Everybody’s version is different and everybody’s ingredients are different. Our tomato lonsa is unique. Sienna: For this unique lonsa, was the recipe derived from 70 years ago or did you have to change or alter the recipe while making the product? Rajus: There was a lot of fine-tuning. Normally, our recipes are just not written down. Aaji: Right? It’s like, “Oh my gosh, I have to really measure the ingredients!” It was very tedious to me. For many cultures, the recipe is just passed down by watching, observing, and cooking together. Now, you’re actually backing into the recipe because you’re not going by instinct. Randy: Yeah, I can definitely relate from recipe making! It’s always not always based on the amount of something but rather the color, the smell, or something like that. Aaji: Same with me. It depends on the 36 penn appétit

flavor, whether it smells great or not. Does the texture and color look good? Randy: Depending on the ingredients and everything, you need to adjust it. That’s why recipes can act as a guide, but you don’t have to follow them 100%. We know that the flavors probably come from the best ingredients along with that perfected recipe. So how does AAJI’S get the freshest flavor? How do you source your ingredients and spices? Rajus: One, the tomatoes are the most important ingredient. There’s more than a pound of tomatoes in every 8 oz. container. We were sourcing directly from a few farms, which was outstanding since we’re always using fresh tomatoes, and we try to learn as much about the farms that they’re coming from. We always source locally when possible. You know, there were even some culinary experts, some chefs saying, “Use canned tomatoes.” Canned tomatoes can be very high quality, but because they’re canned, the flavor and texture changes. The lonsa became more saucy and pasty. So, we decided to always use fresh tomatoes, and we make sure that that’s a priority. Aaji: I decided that canned tomatoes weren’t a good representation of the tomato lonsa. It never satisfied me and that taste never came close. For spices, we source from Indian retailers. Throughout your cooking, you trust and know the flavors, and we’ve also made sure to keep out preservatives and GMO ingredients. Randy: And of course, I have to ask: what is the Korde family’s favorite foods to pair with your lonsa? Poorva: I love it on a breakfast sandwich. I’ve been putting it on as my spread, with or

without cheese. I think it just adds so much to a fried egg. That’s my favorite way to eat it. Randy: Wait, I think the first time I ate lonsa was also with a bagel and a fried egg. Rajus: I think for me, it’s a sandwich too. It’s anything with bread or starch. I think we’re surprising ourselves every day and our customers are surprising us. Somebody used it as their pizza base. One person said, “I can’t eat pasta without it.” Somebody used it as a meatloaf topping. The possibilities are endless — we call it “no-rules lonsa.” No judgment. Aaji: I grew up eating this lonsa, and my mother made it specially paired with a lentil curry. She would combine it with this stuffed flatbread with potatoes. It was a great combination. When I eat a meal and feel like I need something else, I just add tomato lonsa to bring everything together. In my mind, it’s to enhance something whenever I need to. Arvind: Top it, spread it, cook with it. I think anything with bread goes.

Farmers Markets Randy: Speaking of farmers markets, how has your interactions with farmers markets been, especially with The Food Trust or other farmers markets? How has your experience been? Rajus: The farmers markets have really been an integral part of our journey. We said, well, “How are we going to bring this food to market?” We realized we’re not going to start a restaurant because that really takes culinary expertise and is a day-to-day challenge. We thought, okay, we want to introduce packaged products and sell it, but because our cuisine is brand new, nobody even knows what tomato lonsa is. With farmers markets, it’s the place where we chose to start because it helps us talk to customers. We have a dialogue versus just putting it on a shelf and hoping people try it. We knocked on farmers markets doors for a few months, and I think after a couple months, they let us in. The Food Trust really made it happen for us; they were instrumental in giving us footing in the farmers markets, such as Fairmount, Clark Park, and more recently Headhouse. It has been extraordinary, outstanding. Not only from the organization like The

Food Trust, but also from other vendors and the community and their missions and what they represent in sourcing: sustainable and farm-to-table foods. They have different missions to giving back. The community has been so supportive. I had not imagined anything like this. The people that we meet and the reaction we get. When they get to come back, the feedback we get is just so rewarding and uplifting. Randy: I was at your booth and I heard someone say, “I tried your lonsa six months ago and I’ve been craving it since.” Why do you guys think you are so memorable to your customer base, and what do you think keeps them coming back for your product? Aaji: I think we’ve made this connection with the people. The customers that come are really enriching my life. When you’re so busy and you don’t have the time to make these extra sauces and this and that, I hope this lonsa is really giving something special to their families. Arvind: I will just add to that. Why do they come back? Of course, there is a personal connection. They like our story, but they love the product. That is the main reason they come back and pay for it. There’s nothing else like our lonsa. It’s not a sauce. It’s not ketchup. It’s not salsa. They can’t go to the store and buy it. That’s why they come back.

Aaji: When our customers repeatedly come back, I feel like we’re seeing our old friends. We all get so excited. Poorva: None of us ever want to say no to farmers markets. We always want to be there because we get so much out of connecting with the people who are coming by our table and trying our food. Our food is made with lots of love and care, but I think we also carry that love to our presence at the market. Randy: With everything we’ve talked about so far, I think that’s the best part about food. It’s not just about the food, but also the people responsible for it. There’s a really strong human aspect to food, but when I hear about your family’s story about your communities, farmers markets, and interactions with customers, that truly reminds me of why food is so beautiful.

Rajus: Yeah, it’s the human connection, and it’s the food connection. It’s all intertwined.

n o i dit

38 penn appétit

By Roger Ge Illustrated by Olivia Tang For many of us, having spices in our food is almost essential to augment the flavor and enrich the dining experience. From the good ol’ reliable black pepper to lesser-seen varieties like the Sichuan peppercorn, they are additions to our daily meals that we might take for granted. But have you ever wondered how certain peppers got their names? Here are some of the stories behind how some of the peppers we know and love came to have their famous names.

Bell Pepper …as it is known in the United States. The name seems to make perfect sense. After all, if one were to squint somewhat, the pepper does indeed begin to take the shape of a bell. One can even argue this is an apt name. But what about a capsicum? That is what people in some other English speaking countries call it in reference to the vegetable’s scientific name c a p s i c u m annum. The botanical name derives from Latin capsa, which meant “box” or “case.” If you have sliced open a capiscum before, the internal structure certainly mirrors this nomenclature. This name may s e e m unapproacable to the casual grocery shopper. The name obfuscates any easily identifiable characteristic of the pepper. However, it may add a certain, academic flair to a dish — if that is indeed the theme for dinner.

Sichuan Peppers Have you ever eaten at a Chinese restaurant and decided to order a spicy dish? Perhaps you have even seen the word “ma” or “mala” thrown around somewhere on the menu. The Sichuan peppers are likely the origin behind all those sensations. Its name is evidently a reference to its famous association with the Sichuan Province in Southwestern China. Sichuan is known for its spicy cuisine, which is often characterized by the use of this spice. In Sichuan cuisine, this spice is unique with its combination of delightful aroma and numbing aftertaste.

— if you’ve ever eaten one, the sensation is extremely memorable. In fact, this iconic aftertaste is precisely what “ma/ mala” refers to.

Shishito This pepper originates from Japan but has other names in various nations and cultures. It is a shortened version of shishitōgarashi, where “shishi’’ means lion, stemming from the perceived resemblance of the pepper to a lion’s head. The latter part, “tōgarashi,” has a slightly more complex origin. “Tō” is represented by the character for China, but in this context has come to be used as a proxy for “foreign.” “Karashi” is a word for something spicy, usually a mustard. In effect, this name would come down to mean something along the lines of “lion-looking spice from overseas.”

Carolina Reaper Despite the ominous nature of its name, t h e “Carolina Reaper” actually has rather downto-earth origins. “Carolina” refers simply to the state of South Carolina, where pepper breeder Ed Currie cultivated this pepper. “Reaper” reflects the shape of the pepper, which is perceived to resemble a scythe like the one carried by the Grim Reaper. Although, the Grim Reaper may pay a fearfully close visit following the level of pain from the consumption of the pepper’s ridiculous levels of capsaicin, surpassing even that of most high grade pepper sprays.

Chipotle Whilst this may not immediately conjure up images of a pepper, more so of a certain restaurant chain, it does in fact refer to what is essentially smoke-dried jalapeño peppers. Coming into the English vernacular through Spanish spoken in Mexico, the word itself is a compound formed from two words in Nahuatl, a language that has a long tradition going back to the Aztecs. It combines chilli — which is indeed where the word “chili” comes from — and poctli, meaning “smoke-dried.” As a side note, “jalapeño” is also of Nahuatl origin, referring to the location where it was originally cultivated — the city of Xalapa.

Eating spicy may not be for everyone. However, the world of spicy spices is not limited in its diversity and variety. From the milder tastes of bell peppers (or rather, capsicums…) to the Carolina Reaper that may make your life flash before your eyes, levels of spice for any number of people are possible. If you ever give spice a go — or are already a connoisseur — perhaps as you enjoy the searing heat, the names would be just as spicy to recall.

penn appétit 39

RECIP

R RE

REC RECIPE

REC

RECIPES R E C I P E S

PES RECIPES RECIPES

R ECIP ES R E C I P E S RECIPES RECIPES ECIPES RECIPES RECIPE

RECIPES

RECIPES RECIPES

RECIPES

R E C I P E S

RECIPES RECIPES

RECIPE

CIPES RECIPES ES RECIPES RECIPES

CIPESRECIPES RECI RECIPES RECIPES RECIPES

4 servings Prep Time: 10 mins Cook Time: about 30 mins

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • •

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced 1-28 oz can diced plum tomatoes 5 garlic cloves 1.5 teaspoons ground cumin, or to taste 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, or to taste 1/8 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste 1 teaspoon dried cilantro, or to taste salt and pepper to taste

• • •

6 large eggs 6 ounces feta, crumbled 3 sprigs of cilantro, for topping

DIRECTIONS 1.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees

Place oven-proof pan on medium-low heat

Add in onions and bell peppers and cook until soft, about 8-10 minutes

Add garlic, cook until fragrant and tender, about another minute

Add in cumin, paprika, cayenne, and dried cilantro, stir until well combined, and cook for another minute

Stir in the tomatoes, and season to taste with salt and pepper, for about 10 minutes.

Add in about 5 ounces of feta (reserve a bit to garnish with)

With a spoon, create 6 wells, and gently crack an egg into each well. Season eggs with salt and pepper

Place pan into oven and allow eggs to bake for about 8 minutes

10. Garnish the dish with the rest of the feta and cilantro, and serve with favorite hot sauce

42 penn appétit

RECIPE AND PHOTO BY ANNA FENG

SHAKSHUKA

penn appétit 43

Upside Down Caramelized Banana Cake BY ASHRIT CHALLA ILLUSTRATION BY MONIKA LEE

Yields: 8 Servings Prep Time: 50 Minutes Total Time: 120 Minutes

Ingredients

Spiced Caramel Banana Topping • • • • •

¼ cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup dark brown sugar 1 tsp ground cardamom ½ tsp ground cinnamon 4 ripe bananas, sliced lengthwise

Spiced Yellow Cake • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1 ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 ½ tsps baking powder ¾ tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp allspice ¼ tsp ground cloves ½ cup vegetable oil 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tsps vanilla extract 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 1 cup buttermilk, room temperature

Directions 1.

Preheat the oven to 350.

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the butter, dark brown sugar, cardamom, and cinnamon until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved, stirring occasionally.

Lower the heat to low and cook the caramel further until it is smooth.

Add the egg and egg yolk, and whisk. After this, add the buttermilk to the wet ingredients and whisk once more.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients bowl and use a rubber spatula to fold the dry mixture into the batter.

10. Pour the batter over the bananas and caramel. 11.

Remove the saucepan from heat and spread the caramel sauce along the bottom of a greased deep dish 9 inch circular pan.

Insert the cake pan into the oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, rotating halfway through.

12.

Press the sliced bananas into the caramel with the flat side down and curved side up.

Once a toothpick is inserted and comes out with one or two moist crumbs at most, remove the pan from the oven.

13.

Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and spices to a medium bowl and whisk together the dry ingredients.

Use a knife to slice around the outside of the cake to separate it from the pan. Let the cake rest for five minutes.

In a separate large bowl, whisk together the oil, sugar, and vanilla.

14. Invert the cake onto a serving platter and let it rest for 20 minutes. 15.

Slice the cake into eight pieces and serve with whipped cream or ice cream!

penn appétit 45

EGG WHITES ON EGG WHITES: MACARON WITH BLACK SESAME GANACHE AND HORCHATA MERINGUE RECIPE AND PHOTO BY ANH NGO

46 penn appétit

INGREDIENTs For the Macaron Shell: • • • •

½ cup icing sugar ½ cup almond flour 1 large aged egg whites, temperature 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

room

For the Black Sesame Ganache: • • • • •

For the HORCHATA MERINGUE:

4 ounces white chocolate ¼ cup heavy whipping cream 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp sesame powder 1 tbsp dark rum (optional)

• •

2 large egg whites, room temperature ¼ cup granulated white sugar

Directions For the Black Sesame Ganache:

For the Macaron Shell:

Heat the cream and butter in a saucepan or in the microwave. When the cream starts bubbling up, take it off the heat and immediately pour the cream over the chopped white chocolate.

In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they begin to rise and hold their shape. While whipping, beat in the granulated sugar until very stiff and firm, about 7-8 minutes.

Let the mixture stand for a few minutes before stirring gently with a spoon or a whisk until the chocolate is incorporated

Add the liquor to the mixture (optional)

Refrigerate the ganache for 2 hours before frosting

Grind together the icing sugar with the almond powder so there are no lumps. Carefully fold the dry mixture into the beaten egg whites with a rubber spatula. Stop folding immediately when the mixture is just smooth and there are no streaks of egg white.

Pipe the batter on the parchment-lined baking sheets and let it rest for about 30 minutes. Bake the macarons in a preheated oven at 300º F (150º C) for 22-23 minutes. Let cool completely then remove from the baking sheet.

For the horchata meringue: 1.

In a heatproof bowl whisk the egg whites with sugar. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir the mixture over low heat until the sugar has melted.

Transfer the egg whites to a mixing bowl and beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form

Assemble 1.

Take two macaron shells and sandwich them together with the ganache. Using a blowtorch, gently caramelize the meringue and place the macarons on top.

penn appétit 47

Chicken Tikka Masala Article by Anya Arora Serves: 4 people Prep Time: 30 minutes Cook Time: 45 minutes

Il lu str b ation y Alic e Cho

Chicken Marinade • • • • • • • • • • • •

600 g chicken thigh fillets, cut into cubes 2 tbsp lemon juice 6 garlic cloves 1 inch piece fresh ginger 1 ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp coriander powder ½ tsp garam masala 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp red chili powder 2 tbsp yogurt 2 tbsp oil Salt to taste

Chicken Tikka Masala • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 tbsp oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 tsp ginger paste ½ tsp ground turmeric powder 2 tsp ground coriander powder 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp red chilli powder 1 tbsp tomato paste ¼ cup canned tomatoes or 2 medium tomatoes, grated 1 tsp lemon juice ¾ cup fresh cream ¼ garam masala Handful of cilantro leaves, chopped Water Salt to taste

Recipe 1.

Place garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, garam masala, chili powder, salt and yogurt in a blender, and process until smooth. Place chicken in a large bowl and pour marinade over. Add in lemon juice and oil. Mix well and marinate for at least 30 minutes in the fridge, or overnight if possible.

When ready to prepare the chicken, preheat a grill. Thread chicken pieces onto skewers. Grill, turning occasionally, for 15-20 minutes. Remove chicken from skewers and set aside.

Meanwhile heat oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add in onions, and sauté for 2-3 minutes until tender and lightly browned. Add ginger, and sauté until aromatic. Add ground ginger, ground coriander, paprika and red chilli powder. Sauté for a minute. Add tomato paste and fry for a few seconds. Add in the tomatoes, and sauté until soft and mushy. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 2-3 minutes.

Add lemon juice and cream. Add enough water to make a thick sauce. Season with salt, and simmer, stirring occasionally for 3-4 minutes.

Add garam masala and coriander leaves, and heat through. Stir in the grilled chicken. Garnish with more coriander leaves and a drizzle of cream. Serve with naan, roti, or rice.

s t n

e i d

e r g

penn appétit 49

MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU MAPO MAPO TOFU TOFU 50 penn appétit

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 Thai bird chili peppers, thinly sliced ½ tbsp of red chili flakes ½ teaspoon ground white pepper 3 tbsp ginger, finely minced 5 cloves of garlic, finely minced 8 oz ground pork 1½ - 2½ tbsp spicy bean sauce 2/3 cup chicken broth 16 oz tofu, cube to preferred size 2 tsp cornstarch 1 scallion finely sliced separating whites from greens sesame oil chili oil ¼ tsp sugar

BY ANH NGO PHOTO BY PINN CHIRATHIVAT

DIRECTIONS 1.

Toasting the aromatics: Heat a drizzle of oil in a saucepan over low heat and add in the thinly sliced Thai bird chili peppers and red chili flakes. Mix around occasionally and toast until spices are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Heat another drizzle of oil in a wok over medium heat. Add in ginger and garlic and fry until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes.

On high heat, add in ground pork

and use the spatula to break the meat up. Cook pork until cooked through. To the pork, add white pepper and stir. 4.

Add in spicy bean sauce and stir. Then add in chicken broth and stir. Bring the sauce up to a simmer, about 1-2 minutes.

In a small bowl, add cornstarch and a couple of tablespoons of water to make a cornstarch slurry. Add the cornstarch slurry to sauce and stir.

Add in toasted chilis and a touch of chili oil and stir. Use a spatula to lightly mix the tofu so it doesn’t break. Allow everything to cook for 3-5 minutes.

Add in sesame oil, sugar, and scallion whites.

Serve the dish with a bowl of rice, a sprinkle of sesame seeds, and the greens of the scallions.

penn appétit 51

cinnamon cayenne b r o w n i e s By Annie Wang | Photo by Pinn Chirathivat

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • •

1 stick salted butter 8oz bar dark or semisweet chocolate bar ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup dark brown sugar 2 tsp vanilla 2 eggs + 1 egg yolk ½ cup flour ¼ cup cocoa powder ¾ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp cayenne powder (optional) flaky sea salt or kosher salt

Directions

52 penn appétit

Melt the butter and the chocolate bar together, either in the microwave at 30 second intervals, or in a double boiler on the stove.

Whisk in the sugars, then whisk in the eggs and vanilla. Mix until smooth and no lumps!

Whisk together the remaining dry ingredients. Fold in the butter/chocolate/ egg mixture gently, being careful to not overmix.

Butter an 8x8in baking pan with some more salted butter. Pour in the batter and spread it in the tin, filling all the corners.

Bake at 350 degrees F for 25-30 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean. If you like your brownies on the gooier side, you can take them out earlier!

Let cool, sprinkle on some flaky sea salt or kosher salt and enjoy :).

penn appétit 53

54 penn appétit

ants climbing up a tree By Anna Feng | Photo by Pinn Chirathivat 4 servings Prep Time: 10 mins Cook Time: about 10 mins

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •

8 oz. dry vermicelli noodles a drizzle of oil 2 tbsp ginger, finely minced 2 tbsp spicy bean sauce (doubanjiang) 4 oz. ground chicken ¼ cup water 2 tsp chicken bouillon powder 1 tsp sugar 2 tsp dark soy sauce 4 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp dried chili flakes 2 scallions, finely sliced sesame oil

DIRECTIONS 1.

Cooking the noodles: In a bowl of cold water, soak the dry noodles in cold water for about 10 minutes. Then, in a pot of boiling water, add in noodles and cook for about a minute. Drain and rinse noodles and set aside.

In a wok or pan, heat a drizzle of oil over medium heat. To the oil, add in minced garlic. Fry garlic until fragrant.

Add in spicy bean sauce and stir. Allow this to cook for another minute.

Add in the ground chicken and stir-fry until meat is cooked through.

In the same sauce pan, add in the water, chicken bouillon powder, sugar, dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, and dried chili flakes. Stir everything until combined and allow sauce to simmer for 1-2 minutes.

Add in vermicelli noodles and serve with the finely sliced scallions and a drizzle of olive oil.

penn appétit 55

56 penn appétit

Mexican Hot Chocolate By Bridgette Fuentes • Illustrations by Yune Kim

Ingredients • • • • •

1 packet of hot chocolate powder ¼ teaspoon to ½ teaspoon of chili powder (depending on desired spice level) ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon powder 2 cups of milk Marshmallows (optional)

Optional ingredients to make your own hot cocoa powder: • 3 mini hershey’s milk chocolate bars (or any other brand of chocolate) • ¼ cup powdered sugar

Directions (Optional) Make homemade chocolate powder: 1. Finely chop the milk chocolate 2.

Add the chocolate into a food processor (or coffee grinder) with ¼ of the powdered sugar and pulse to make into a powder

Continue adding in the powdered sugar until all is combined

Note: you can also combine the cinnamon and chili powder to the mix in the food processor/coffee grinder

Preparing the hot chocolate drink: 1. Bring 2 cups of milk to a light simmer over the stove 2.

Add in the chocolate powder, ground cinnamon, and chili powder

Stir until combined

Top with marshmallows and enjoy!

penn appétit 57

Recipe by Anna Feng Illustration by Alice Choi

Dirty Chai Expresso Martini 4 servings Prep Time: 10 mins Cook time: about 10 mins 58 penn appétit

Ingredients FOR THE HOMEMADE CHAI TEA SYRUP (12 SERVINGS)

FOR THE REST OF THE MARTINI

• • • • •

• • • • • • •

1/2 whole star anise 4 whole cloves 2 whole allspice 1 cinnamon sticks 2 cardamon pod, cracked open to reveal seeds 2 in. piece of ginger 1 vanilla bean 1 tbsp brown sugar 1/8 tsp nutmeg 2 bags of black tea 1 cup of water 1 cup honey

1 1/2 oz vodka 1 1/2 oz Kahlúa 1 oz espresso 1 oz oat milk nutmeg and star anise, for garnish

Directions 1.

Making the homemade chai tea: In a pot of water, add all ingredients except black tea bags to a boil over medium-high heat. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes and then add tea bags. Allow the black tea bags to steep for 5 minutes, and then pour concentrate through a strainer. Let chai tea concentrate cool to room temperature.

Making the syrup: in a saucepan, add chai tea concentrate and honey to a saucepan. Boil this mixture for 6-9 minutes, then remove from heat.

Shaking the cocktail: In a cocktail shaker, combine 2 tablespoons of chai tea syrup, vodka, Kahlua, espresso, and oat milk. Add ice and shake vigorously for 1 minute.

Strain into a cocktail glass and top with grated nutmeg and a piece of star anise.

penn appétit 59

SPRING 2022