Fall 2021: The Dough Issue P.I by penn appétit

penn appétit FALL

2021

THE

DOUGH

ISSUE

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR EDITORIAL STAFF

CREATIVE DIRECTOR DESIGN STAFF PHOTO DIRECTOR PHOTO STAFF

DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR DIGITAL TEAM

CULINARY DIRECTOR CULINARY TEAM

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING TEAM FINANCE DIRECTOR FINANCE TEAM

WEBMASTER COMMUNICATIONS

Maggie Tang Helen Wu Andie Goldmacher, Ano Patel, Anusha Mathur, Ayelet Gross, Clara Ke, Dhivya Arasappan, Emily Truong, Grace Busser, Josephine Buccini, Rebecca Jiang, Roger Ge Malia Kealaluhi Hailie Goldsmith, Hannah Chan, Jonathan Xue, Joyce He, Monika Lee, Olivia Tang Alaina Chou Alan Jinich, Amy Liu, Anna Feng, Caroline Birkel, Daniel Shi, Dhivya Arasappan, Emily Chen, Fiona Wu, Ilana Jacobs, Jasmine Young, Jonathan Xue, Kaelin Suh, Liliann Zou, Melisa Yaman, Olivia Kim, Pinn Chirathivat, Rachel Zhang, Ria Vieira Michelle Kwon, Janet Lee Aakanksha Deb, Alex Bardwell, Alex Won, Ananya Malhotra, Cole Suplee, Isabelle Lin, Janet Lee, Joanna Shan, Melisa Yaman, Nakyung Lee, Rachel Ker, Serena Huang, Zoe Lu Sarah Berstein Advait Thaploo, Alex Doppelt, Anh Ngo, Anna Feng Anya Arora, Apoorvi Bharat Ram, Ashrit Challa, Brigette Fuentes, Eesha Balar, Jad Abouchalache, Joey Wu, Joshua Chertok, Lauren E Traas, Liam Umbs, Lulu Schmitt, Max Tsiang, Melody Cheng, Milan Chand, Neha Gupta, Peyton Ronki, Phillip Trieu, Pinn Chirathivat, Randy Bach, Rishin Sharma, Roni Itkin-Ofer, Rose Wang, Shan Shan Liang, Sharon Dong, Tianne Fitzmaurice, Yujung Lee, Zain Salloum, Zoe Millstein Josephine Cheng Amaliya Yunusova, Anna Metzger, Irene Pak, Kade Shippy, Rene Chen, Roni Itkin-Ofer Diya Sethi Allison Chen, Ashley Leoni, Beverly Feng, Chloe Barshay, Rebecca Wirtschafter, Ruby Chen, Stephanie Shen, Toby Dorfman Vibha Makam Shaila Lothe

SOCIAL IMPACT CHAIR

Randy Bach

SOCIAL IMPACT STAFF

Erin Lee, Helen Hu, Jamie Yuen, Joshua Chertok, Rebecca Jiang, Serena Huang, Sienna Chen

EVENTS CHAIR

Stephanie Yoon

EVENTS STAFF

Eitan Goodman, Giselle Wagner, Isabel Fiato, Rachel Ker, Shan Shan Liang, Stephanie Shen

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Dear Reader, It’s a Saturday morning, and the moment you lift your head from the pillow, a dull malaise washes over you. Nothing a strong cup of coffee can’t solve, right? You open your phone and browse reviews upon reviews of coffee places, trying to filter out your indecisiveness. How about the multinational, cult-favorite chain? 3.9 stars. Eh, you’re feeling something more refined today. Or you could play it safe and go to that coffee shop that also sells oddly placed “sustainable clothes’’ that you’ve never seen anyone buy. 4.6 stars. Not too bad, but is it worth the overpriced brews and not being able to find seating? Woah. 4.9 stars! And 62 reviews too. A new eclectic place at the edge of the neighborhood. You’ll give that one a try. You arrive at the place, and the exterior is a bright baby pink that screams “look at me” amidst a street of other more dilapidated shops. You join the line and notice immediately that its clientele is quite different from the rest of the neighborhood. Right across the coffee shop is a community fridge, painted in the same hue of happy baby pink. While in the line, you observe community residents toll over their bags to fill it with an amalgam of lettuce, eggs, potatoes, and berries. You finally get to the front of the line, and you’re confronted by an overwhelming array of options. What to do? Well, you heard from a

friend recently that pumpernickel bagels are the underrated superhero of the bagel world. So you get that. And a seasonal maple latte of course. The barista flips over the payment machine, and the dreaded moment arrives. Out of panic, you select 18%. Shoot. Was that too much? You take your food to a nearby park bench. Sipping your $6 latte, you watch the ebb and flow of people to and from the community fridge grow as the day settles in. Everyday, you interact with food in a social dimension, beyond the taste, sights, and smells. With the dough double issue, we wanted to create a socially conscious spread of articles featuring doughy foods, as well as articles that explored the financial aspects of the restaurant industry. I hope this issue will help you understand your daily interactions with dough, whether it’s reading food guides, interrogating why you have certain conceptions about fast food) , or selecting the right amount to tip your servers.. Enjoy,

H!" Wu

The Menu The Perks of Being a Wall-Flour

Our Global Obsession With Fried Dough

A Treatise on Bagels

Route to Roots: Origins of Indian Bread

Ratatouille

Between the Layers of a Multinational Pastry Company

Dragonfruit Bread

Mochi

An Ode To Toast

Supermarket Showdown

The Elevation of Dough

Mango Tapioca

The Rise of Bread Art

Tteokbokki

In Defense of Ugly Bread

Gone Viral: How Three Philly Bakeries Mobilized Online

THE

PERKS

BEING

WALLFLOUR What is flour? Is it the all purpose flour in white bags at the grocery store? Or rice flour that molds into delicious, slippery noodles? Maybe even tapioca flour, the strong, sticky foundation of boba? Instead of giving you the official Oxford definition—which revolves around a Western centric idea of flour as a fine white or brown grain made from wheat—I hope to give you a more inclusive view of different flours that constitute staples around the world. One might even say that I am hoping to bring these alternative wall-flours into the spotlight.

6 penn appétit

BY HELEN WU ILLUSTRATION BY MALIA KEALALUHI

South America

Corn, arguably one of the most iconic Latin American crops, is so versatile that it can be turned into multiple different flours. Corn meal, the iconic yellow particles that we so often see on the bottom of pizza to prevent the dough from sticking to the pan, is made from medium or coarse ground dried corn. Corn flour is finer ground cornmeal that can be used as breading for fried foods and incorporated into baked goods. Then there is masa harina, which is a flour made from dried hominy. Despite the unique name, hominy is essentially dried corn kernels that have been treated in limewater to remove the hull and add nutrition. While corn flour and corn meal are more common in non-South American recipes, masa harina is the beloved flour that forms tortillas, tamales, pupusas, and empanadas. It’s as easy as just adding different ratios of water to masa harina to create the base of so many South American foods!

Africa

Africa is home to many varieties of alternative flours, such as millet, cassava, tapioca, and teff. After trying injera, a flatbread made from teff, I have corrected my previously false notion of flour being a flavorless base to serve other foods. An ancient grain popular in Ethiopia and Eritrea, teff is a small seed harvested from the lovegrass plant. To make injera, teff flour is mixed with water and left to ferment for a few days—the dough collects aerobic yeast, which contributes to injera’s signature tangy sourdough flavor. After fermentation, it is spread thinly on a pan and cooked to yield a thin flatbread with densely packed air holes. The resulting product is injera, a flatbread that is not only served with a spicy amalgam of other foods but functions as both the serving platter and utensil of your meal. The diner is encouraged to grab a piece of teff with their hands and pinch other ingredients to form the perfect bite.

North America

Bread baking is an important Native American tradition, especially for Navajo tribes in the Southwest. Traditionally, Native Americans enjoyed their own diverse repertoire of bread by binding various ingredients to make cornbread, bean bread, and acorn bread. After the Spanish colonization brought many new imports such as wheat and ovens, Native Americans baked bread in large domed outdoor ovens fired by cedarwood, which are also known as hornos. The result is pueblo bread, whose taste varies between different bakers, each with closely guarded family recipes. Pueblo bread is a staple food with a complicated history, reminding many Native Americans today of how the history of colonization has shaped their cuisine.

Asia

Rice doesn’t have to be eaten in grain form. In many countries whose main harvest is rice rather than wheat, brown or white rice is stripped of its tough husk and pulverized into a fine flour that comprises the staple ingredient in noodles, rice cakes, rice balls, rice paper…If you are well-versed in Asian cuisines, you might even be aware of glutinous rice flour, rice flour’s fraternal twin made from short grain sweet rice instead of long or medium grain rice. Contrary to its name, glutinous rice flour does not contain gluten; the name merely alludes to its bouncy texture which lends so well to desserts such as mochi, tang yuan, and sweet rice cakes.

Europe

Europe is a surprisingly gluten-free friendly place due to the popularity of alternative flours such as almond flour, chestnut flour, and buckwheat flour. Frangipane, a cake filling made from almond flour, has quite an interesting Catholic origin story. In the year 1212, Saint Francis befriended a woman named Lady Jacoba di Settesoli, widow of the knight Gratiano Frangipani. Saint Francis became very fond of the dessert she served him and aptly called it Frangipane after her deceased husband. In addition to frangipane, almond flour can be turned into delicious macarons, cookies, tarts—it is easy to use as a gluten free alternative in most baking recipes.

penn appétit 7

B y Yujung L ee Yields: 4 servings Prep time: 4.5 hours Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients • • • • • •

White rice, washed 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp maple syrup ½ tsp salt cup warm water (120-122F) ½ tsp instant dry yeast

Basic Rice Bread (Gluten-Free)

Directions 1.

In a bowl, soak the washed rice grains in water for at least 3 hours.

Line a loaf pan with parchment paper.

Drain the soaked rice and remove any excess moisture.

In a blender, blend together the soaked rice, oil, maple syrup, salt, and warm water for 30 seconds.

Add in dry yeast and repeat blending for 30 seconds 4-5 times. Scrape the sides in between for a smooth mixture.

When the mixture is smooth and its temperature is around 100104F, the batter is ready to rise.

Pour the batter into the lined loaf pan. Spray water on the surface to prevent the batter from drying, which would lead to cracked bread when baked. Cover with a lid or aluminum foil.

Let the batter rise for 15-20 minutes at 104F. You can place the pan and 1-2 cups of warm water in a closed container and replace water when it becomes cold.

When the batter has risen to 1.5 times the original volume, place the pan at room temperature.

10. Preheat the oven to 355F. Continue to watch the batter and wait until it rises to 2 times the original volume. 11.

Spray the surface of batter with water and bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

12.

Remove rice bread from the pan when cooled, and slice when the bread has completely cooled.

13.

8 penn appétit

Enjoy! Rice bread goes well with any condiments to your liking.

BY DHIVYA ARASAPPAN; COLLAGE BY MALIA KEALALUHI If you think about it, fried doughs and batters are practically universal, whether sweet or savory. From buñuelos to falafels and everything in between, the variations are rather endless. For many, the sputtering hot oil flying from a pot is enough to put a stop to their deep frying dreams. Still, maybe, just maybe, this selection of fried doughs will make your mouth water enough to face the sizzle. When you think of American food, you likely bring up the image of something like burgers and fries. But equally quintessential are popular fair foods like funnel cake, found anywhere where there is fun to be had. Amusement parks? Check. How about carnivals and beachside boardwalks? Absolutely. The batter is swirled in frying oil using the eponymous funnel and looks like a hodgepodge of swirls and squiggles over which you add a healthy dusting of some powdered sugar. And while that’s the classic version that often comes to mind, funnel cakes can quickly become elaborate creations with toppings like fruit and chocolate or, if you’re feeling fancy, even jelly. A beloved favorite in South Asia is the breakfast vadai—a savory fried dough peppered with bits of green chilies, mustard seeds, chopped onions, and of course, whole black peppers. Vadai can easily be enjoyed on its own, but it’s best when it’s hot out of the oil and eaten with fresh coconut chutney and sambar. It’s these hints of spice and wonderfully golden color that’ll truly bring you to life in the morning. If you’re not a fan of spice, no worries, because vadais are versatile creatures—one can soak the vadais (usually day-old by this point) in salted warm water for a few seconds before removing and gently squeezing the water out. Pat them dry, and let them soak in plain yogurt dressed up with cumin, salt, chopped coriander, and asafoetida for an hour in the refrigerator. Creamy and just a little salty, thayir vadai make for a soothing afternoon snack or the perfect dinner for a peaceful night in. New Orleans is famous for its beignets, which translates to donut or fritter. It’s a type of donut made with yeast, noted for its square shape instead of many curricular donuts. It tends to be even fluffier and puffier than your average do-

nut, and while they can be eaten at any time of day, they’re especially lovely for breakfast. They’re adapted from a choux pastry that you know is rather fussy if you’ve ever seen the contestants on The Great British Baking Show struggle. Best described as just a little crispy and tantalizingly sweet, fresh beignets are so well coated in powdered sugar that it’s close to being attacked by white dust, according to a fellow editor. And if you want to go the extra mile, beignets can be filled with anything from chocolate to raspberry and paired with a cup of coffee or café au lait. Falafels have become a super versatile food found in everything from salads to grain bowls or covered in various sauces, like tahini or tzatziki. But it originated as a Middle Eastern staple, made from ground chickpeas or fava beans in some regions and a wonderful array of aromatic spices from coriander and cumin to herbs like parsley and cilantro. The best falafels are crispy on the outside and full of texture and warmth on the inside. Falafel has many regional differences in how they’re made with different recipes that reflect the local tastes and availability of ingredients. It would make a great addition to a mezze plate accompanied by muhammara, a roasted red pepper walnut dip, or creamy labneh, alongside fresh lettuce, tomatoes, pickled onions, and maybe even some pita. Originating in Portugal, malasadas have one of the best contrasts in texture. From a crispy, sugary exterior that with one bite will open up a doughy center, malasadas are in no way your everyday donuts. While it may look like any other sugary, yeast-leavened doughnut you can find at the supermarket, that’s where the similarities end. Malasadas incorporate about one egg for every cup of flour in addition to milk or cream, or as often done in Hawaii, evaporated milk which makes for a very rich and indulgent treat. They can also be filled with haupia for a coconut custard flair. And if this has your mouth watering, I’d say it’s time to heat that oil and get to work. Alternatively, you could walk (more like run!) to the nearest bakery or restaurant and get your hands on some beautiful fried goodies.

OUR GLOBAL OBSESSION WITH FRIED DOUGH

T R E AT I S E

O N

B AG E LS BY AYELET GROSS, ILLUSTRATION BY MALIA KEALALUHI, RECIPE BY SARAH BERNSTEIN

Let’s talk about bagels. Everybody cares about bagels. Whether you’re a bagel elitist (ahem, New Yorkers), or you’re content with some good ol’ pre-packaged Thomas Plains, I guarantee that you have an opinion; nay, a mindset about bagels. Some people stand by toasted bagels. Others stand by odd open-face versions. And everybody has that “excuse me?” moment when somebody dares to question their bagel staple. If you doubt my scallion cream cheese on pumpernickel dough, I will fight you. That being said, if opinions could be false, most people would cross that line.

What makes a good bagel? It isn’t exactly a mystery. You know a good bagel when you taste it. A scrumptious bagel should have a crisp, darker crust, and a soft, fluffy interior. It shouldn’t be flat, or spherical, and for God’s sake, the hole in the center shouldn’t be a crater. If all of the cream cheese is falling straight through to the plate, there’s a problem. And moreover, a good bagel absolutely does not need to be toasted in order to be delicious. If your bagel only tastes good after a stint in the oven, you may need to reevaluate your bagel shop choices.

Are New York Bagels actually “the superior bagel?” Well, no… but also yes. Objectively, New York does have soft tap water: the lack of harsh salts make for a softer inside in the final bagel. You don’t necessarily get that effect everywhere else in the world. But perhaps the best trait is that almost all New Yorkers boil their dough before baking, lending the bagel a thin, crisp exterior while still allowing it to rise in the oven. After extensive research, and much testing, I do believe that I have constructed the definitive ranking of bagels. The criteria are texture, fluffiness, cooperation with sides and spreads, and tastiness...

12 penn appétit

1. PUMPERNICKEL

2. Everything

3. PLAIN

4. SWEET

5. WHOLE GRAINS

6. OTHERS

The Luxury Bagel. Made of dark, sweet rye with a tendency to crisp beautifully, pumpernickel bagels are mouthwatering with both sweet and savory spreads and toppings. Yum.

The Classic. It’s hard to top an everything bagel with cream cheese, because they’re just darn delicious. But— they’re messy! I don’t need a million toppings dropping on to my plate or getting stuck in my teeth.

The Basic. Plain bagels are great, but let’s be honest. They lack some oomph.

The Hot Takes. Cinnamon Raisin and Blueberry: spread choices are definitely limited. Sometimes they feel more like dessert than a main course.

The “Healthies” Multigrain, Whole Wheat, and Rye are close in taste to plain bagels, but not quite. The texture’s a bit worse, and they don’t crisp as well.

The Ill-Prepared Garlic, Onion, Sesame Seed, Poppy Seed, Salt. Okay, I have such strong opinions about these bagels. They all go way at the bottom of the list. I’m sorry, but those are just everything bagels without the “everything” on it! Don’t hand me poppy seeds without the garlic, onion, and sesame! No way. And salt bagels? A crime! If I am that desperate, I may as well eat a pretzel.

The Sweet ‘n Rich

The Plain ‘n Simple A classic

Ingredients:

• • • • •

1 pumpernickel bagel 2-4 tbsp ricotta 1-2 tbsp honey (optionally, replace honey with a sweet vinegar like a high quality balsamic) 1-2 sprigs of mint leaves, chopped or torn into small pieces Salt, as needed

Directions: 1.

2. 3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

Split and toast the pumpernickel bagel evenly using your preferred method of toasting until crisp and evenly browned For extra richness, add a thin layer of butter to the hot bagel Spread a tablespoon of ricotta on each half of the bagel, adding more if desired Drizzle the top with honey or sweet vinegar, making sure to check that yours is a high quality vinegar with a thick viscosity and sweetness along with the acidity Prepare the mint by removing the leaves from the stem and finely chopping the herb into small pieces or alternatively tearing them apart with your hands Top the bagel slices with mint and a very light sprinkling of salt Serve as two halves and enjoy the richness of the ricotta with the sweetness of honey and the sharpness of mint on top of the dark and moist pumpernickel bagel

• • • • • • •

1 plain bagel 1 bunch of fresh chives 2-3 sprigs fresh dill 1 thinly, evenly, sliced cucumber 1-3 tbsp cream cheese 1-3 sprigs mint (optional) Salt, as needed

Directions: 1.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Cut in half and lightly toast the bagel using your preferred method of toasting, stopping before it turns a deep gold or browns Allow bagel to cool while preparing the toppings Chop the fresh chives and dill as finely as possible, mixing them in thoroughly with the cream cheese to create an herbed spread Spread the herbed cream cheese over each side of the bagel, taking care not to add too much Arrange a layer of cucumbers evenly over the herbed cream cheese Season the cucumbers lightly with salt Optionally top with small pieces of mint, either cut or torn Serve open-faced or as a sandwich immediately

The Hot ‘n Heavy: There’s always some way to sneak dessert in Ingredients: • • • • • •

1 bagel of the sweet variety (cinnamon raisin, blueberry, egg, etc.) 2-3 tbsp cream cheese 1 tbsp powdered sugar or honey (optional) 2 tbsp lemon curd 1 handful fresh blueberries or 1-3 tbsp blueberry syrup Salt, as needed

Directions: 1.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Halve and toast the bagel evenly using your preferred method of toasting until crisp, and warmed through, but still springy For added sweetness, combine cream cheese with a tablespoon of powdered sugar, honey, or other desired sweetener While still warm, spread a thick layer of cream cheese each toasted side Top the cream cheese with good quality lemon curd, distributed evenly Finish with blueberries, or blueberry syrup, and a sprinkle of salt Serve warm, open-faced or as a sandwich, with many napkins

Notes: Replace cream cheese with mascarpone for a slightly (and I do mean slightly) lighter Hot ‘n Heavy that has the same richness and is additionally lightly tangier. Disregard optional powdered sugar, or honey, if using mascarpone.

15 penn appétit

16 penn appétit

ROUTE TO ROOTS: THE ORIGINS OF INDIAN BREADS ANO PATEL Illustrations by OLIVIA TANG While we are familiar with regular Indian rotis like naan, laccha paratha, and poori, a lot of unique breads eaten in India today owe their birth to regional diversity or foreign influences, and have evolved over the decades with distinct techniques and tastes. Here’s a look at the story of the origins of indigenous breads from across India that offer a gastronomic gateway to these regions

1 2 3

BAJRI NA ROTLA, Gujarat (Black pearl millet flatbread) Bajra has been a staple for banjaras (nomadic tribes) in the dry, arid lands of Gujarat and Rajasthan since prehistoric times. Bajra is an essential winter food as it warms the body. A dough ball is beaten into shape with hands, cooked over an earthen tawa, and roasted over full flame for smokiness. While peasants even today eat a meal of bajra rotlas, garlic-red chili chutney, and raw onions, others eat it with ringan no olo (spicy, smoky eggplant stew). BAATI, Rajasthan (Coarse whole wheat balls) Baati was the official wartime meal of Rajput soldiers in the kingdom of Mewar. Before going to war, the warriors buried these dough balls under layers of sand in the desert. When they returned from war, these balls would be baked and were eaten with curd made from camel milk. Over the decades, the dish evolved and now as a full meal, baati is eaten with spicy panchmel dal (mix of five lentils) and sweet, crumbly churma (made by mixing crushed baati, ghee and jaggery). KULCHA, Punjab (Soft leavened maida flatbread) It is said that Punjabi cooks learned the art of layering flaky pastry from the French chefs who worked in the royal kitchens of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, hence its similarity to the French croissant. Over the years, these cooks experimented with a variety of stuffing, and started adding aloo (potato mash), paneer (cottage cheese), matar (crushed peas), or cheese. It makes a lipsmacking meal when teamed with Amritsari chhole (chickpea curry) and tangy mint chutney.

4 5

MAKKI DI ROTI, Haryana (Cornmeal flatbread) Maize was brought to India in the 16th century by the Portuguese. Grown across the northern states of Punjab and Haryana, makki di roti (corn flatbread) & sarson da saag (fresh mustard greens) is eaten to celebrate the winter harvest, with many folk songs dedicated to the crop. The dough ball is thumped into shape between palms and baked inside a fiery hot tandoor. It is then topped with a generous dollop of white makkhan (unsalted butter). TINGMO/TIMOK, Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh (Tibetan braided steamed buns) The origins of these steamed buns can be traced to the surrounding Himalayan region of Tibet and are similar to the Chinese mantou. They are a perfect bite when dunked in a rich curry or Tibetan red chili sauce. For a complete meal, they are teamed with a variety of datshis (cheese prepped with hot green chili, or potato, or meat) or pork/chicken shapta (Tibetan-style curry).

GIRDA/TCHOT, Kashmir (Fingertip-dented bread sprinkled with poppy seeds) The origins of Kashmiri breads go back to the 2nd century, when they were brought to India from Persia via the Silk Route. Girda, or Tchot is generally not prepared at home. Kandurwans (bakery shops) come to life long before daybreak, with the smell of fresh bread wafting from wood-fired tandoors as bakers perform namaz-efajr (dawn prayer). This bread is served for breakfast with salty nun chai (pink tea) or aromatic kehwa (green tea) to community men who gather at these bakery shops to talk about current affairs. It is also served with rogan josh (spicy red meat curry) at weddings.

penn appétit 17

SHEERMAL, Uttar Pradesh (Saffron-laced flatbread) When the first king of Awadh - Ghaziuddin Haider - wished to eat a new type of bread, a migrant baker whipped up an innovative flatbread made with milk and zafran (saffron) to balance the spiciness of nihari. The king immediately picked out the yellow bread from an array of breads laid on the table, and asked the raqabdaar (royal chef) to include it daily in his diet. A popular celebratory bread even today, it’s served with Lucknowi Nihari (spicy mutton stew), or kakori kebabs.

8 9

SEL ROTI, Sikkim & Assam (Ring-shaped sweet rice bread) This ceremonial bread originated in Nepal over 800 years ago and was eaten on New Year and at weddings. Sel comes from the word ‘saal’ which means both year and confectionary. Even today, it is customary for a groom to present the family of the bride with a basket full of Sel Roti before the wedding. In the north-east regions of India, this sweet bread is eaten during celebrations with aloo achaar (potato pickle) or spicy meat. LITTI, Bihar & Jharkhand (Whole-wheat dough balls stuffed with sattu) The origins of litti can be traced back to the royal kitchens of the Magadha Empire in 600 BCE. Centuries later, the Mughals ate litti with shorba (creamy soups) or payas (spicy broths). It was the preferred travel food of freedom fighters Rani Laxmi Bai and Tantia Tope. These are traditionally baked over open fire and served with chokha (charred eggplants mashed with heavy spices and aromatics).

10 11 12

RAGI MUDDE, Karnataka (Finger millet lumps) Also known as a miracle superfood or the OG ‘protein bite’, this hearty peasant grain has been cultivated in India since the Iron Age and was first prepared for farmers who needed high energy for intense physical labor. It can be teamed with bassaru (rasam), or chicken pulusu (curry), or soppu saaru (radish leaves & lentils). POEE/POI, Goa (Whole-wheat hollow buns) An Indian adaptation of the Portuguese pão, locals use toddy (palm liquor) as the leavening agent instead of yeast. These are traditionally sold by poders (breadmakers) in a basket strapped to a bicycle every morning. These buns are either stuffed with Goan sausage, or eaten with chicken cafreal. PURAN POLI/OBBATTU, Maharashtra & Andhra Pradesh (Lentil-stuffed sweet flatbread) Puran poli goes by different names in different states - holige, obbattu, and vedhmi. The recipe of Bakshyam (as it’s called in Andhra) can be traced back to the 14thCentury Telugu epic Manucharitra. In Maharashtra, Puran poli is prepared on auspicious occasions as an offering to Hindu gods and is usually eaten with katachi amti, a spicy, tangy broth made with leftover lentil stock, tamarind and spices.

*** RATATOUILLE 20 penn appétit

BY YUJUNG LEE; PHOTO BY DANIEL SHI

YIELDS: 3-4 SERVINGS PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES COOK TIME: 35 MINUTES

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1-2 eggplant 1 zucchini 1 yellow squash 6 tomatoes ¼ cup olive oil ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper ½ Tbsp dried parsley or basil Sauce 3 garlic cloves, minced ½ yellow onion 1 cup tomato sauce 2 Tbsp olive oil

DIRECTIONS 1.

Cut the eggplant, zucchini, and yellow squash using a mandoline slicer into 2 mm slices. Cut the tomatoes with a sharp knife into 2 mm slices. 2. Set aside leftover pieces of vegetables and slices that are too large or small compared to others. 3. Mince garlic and julienne the onions. Dice the scrap pieces of vegetables. 4. In a medium skillet on medium-high heat, add olive oil and minced garlic. 5. Cook the garlic in oil until aromatic for one minute, and add in onion and diced vegetables, except tomato. 6. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and continue to cook on medium heat. 7. Once the vegetables have cooked and softened, add diced tomato and tomato sauce. 8. On low-medium heat, simmer for 10 minutes or until the sauce reduces and thickens. 9. Using a blender, blend the sauce mixture until homogenized and smooth. 10. On a round baking dish, cover the bottom with a generous layer of sauce. 11. Arrange alternating slices of eggplant, zucchini, squash, and tomato to create a spiral shape of overlapping vegetables, covering the sauce. 12. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the vegetable slices. 13. Mix dried herbs in olive oil, and drizzle the mixture on top of the vegetables. 14. Cover the top of the pan with a piece of parchment paper to prevent the vegetables from drying and burning. 15. Bake in the oven preheated at 360°C for 30~35 minutes.

penn appétit 21

A Rose In Bloom:

When Gérard Dubois first opened his pâtisserie, La Rose Noire (LRN), little did he know that the Hong Kong restaurant and cakeshop would turn into a global operation. The once-small thirty-seat store is now a multinational enterprise, purveying over 500 varieties of handmade pastry, chocolate, and baked goods to 47 countries. Yet its exponential growth was largely thanks to Gérard’s fiery passion for his craft, evident from the moment we sat down to chat. Born in Switzerland, Gérard discovered his zeal for pastry baking with his mother. “My father was like, ‘Pft, what’s that?’,” he joked, showing a toothy grin as he recalled sharing his desire to be a baker. Gérard made good on his word, taking two apprenticeships in chocolate/pastry and baking, eventually moving to work for Hilton in London in 1983. He later landed in Shanghai in 1986, working with Hilton to develop pastry for China’s first international hotel. His hard labor creating baked goods in a country bereft of chocolate and cream won the Shanghai Hilton numerous acclaims, securing him a position at Hilton’s Hong Kong headquarters in 1988, where he later met his future wife, Janita. Although his Hilton position promised stability and a solid salary, Gérard longed to do even more. With the support of Janita, he made the leap to start his own business, and on August 26, 1991, the LRN cake shop/café opened its doors in Hong Kong. The first few years were incredibly taxing. Gérard often began work early and returned late in the night, toiling without a day off or a salary during the first year. While Janita initially worked at the front of the store, she eventually transitioned to caring for their children after becoming pregnant with their daughter Caroline, then son Dominic. It was especially difficult for the family: Gérard rarely saw them unless they came between the lunch and dinner rush. “Without [ Janita] there to really drive the family,” he confessed, “we would not have been able to make it.” And make it it did. LRN grew large enough to start mass production, and in 2003 Gérard opened the first LRN factory in China. Business in the region, however, was largely unprofitable. His face lit up as he recalled fighting to turn his business around. “I’ve always had a fire inside me… But when I put myself into it, I can’t stop!” Gérard laughed. “I just go full blast.” Sensing an opportunity, he packed his bags full of samples and flew to Australia, courting local frozen pastry distributors with his

BY CLARA KE PHOTO USED WITH PERMISSION FROM LA ROSE NOIRE

BEtween the LaYers of a Mutinational Pastry Company

tart shells and macarons. Gérard eventually landed a deal, shipping his first batch of pastry to New Zealand. From Australia Gérard moved on to Gulf countries, then to North America, then finally to Europe. France, of course, gave him the most resistance. “Selling the French a tart shell made with French flour and French butter [in the French tradition, but] made in China?” he scoffed, mimicking his buyers. In the end though, France joined the LRN universe. Dedicated team members like Yvonne Wong (Hong Kong Managing director) and Terrence Chan (Global Production Manager) labored with Gérard to grow the company. The cherry on top for him however was finding success in his motherland. “I cannot afford to mess it up in Switzerland!” he exclaimed. “I could afford to mess up in New Zealand—I don’t know anyone, I don’t even know the sheep.” Gérard’s ceaseless pursuit of innovative pastry complemented La Rose Noire’s expansion, drawing inspiration from his travels and his competitors’ mistakes. Yet not only did LRN’s goods need to be creative—they also needed to be the best. Gérard repeatedly expounded his philosophy of quality first in our discussion. “You want to be the Aston Martin... the Rolls-Royce. So when you develop a product, just go for the best…Forget the price. Get the best ingredients and make it handmade…High quality with a lot of… Constant innovation.” But all of his travel came to a screeching halt with the COVID-19 pandemic. Gérard found himself stuck in Hong Kong with manufacturing immobilized in the Philippines, only worsened by a factory fire in August 2021. As the hospitality sector slumped, he struggled to get his buyers to place orders and was forced to destroy stock. In spite of all of the roadblocks, he remained optimistic. “You need to be very positive, you need to keep smiling, and you need to tell yourself that life is wonderful,” he chuckled. “Otherwise, you have a nightmare and white hair and you can’t sleep!” Even in the face of so many challenges, Gérard’s dedication drove him to think outside of the box and strive for the best despite the odds. As I walked away from our conversation, I couldn’t help but think of his closing remarks on what he attributed to his success. “Passion and being passionate about what I do,” he replied. That was all there was to it.

penn appétit 23

DRAGONFRUIT BREAD WITH MARSCAPONE FILLING BY ANH NGO

Yields: 30 craquelin puffs Prep time: 2 hours Cook time: 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the Dragon Fruit Bread Dough: 1. Slice the dragon fruit into small cubes. Stir in the lemon juice and let it sit for 5 minutes. This step prevents the dragon fruit from browning out when the bread is baked. 2. In the bowl of your electric stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, yeast, sugar, and dragon fruit. With the mixer on second speed with the dough hook, beat about 15 seconds until the dragon fruit chunks into the flour. 3. Add the salt. Reduce the to the stand mixer’s first speed and knead the dough until it is silky smooth and elastic (about 5 to 7 minutes). Check if the dough is ready using the Windowpane test. 4. Grease the proofing bowl with a little oil. Place the dough inside the bowl and turn it around so that it is covered with oil (to prevent the dough from drying out). Cover the bowl with a damp towel. Proof at room temperature until the dough doubles in size. Proofing time will be between 60-90 minutes, dough will proof faster at warmer temperatures. 5. After the first proof, take the dough out of the bowl and knead for another 2 – 3 minutes until the dough is smooth. Divide the dough into 10 equal portions, each

For the Dragon Fruit Dough: • 1 red dragon fruit • 2 tsp lemon juice • 4 cup bread flour • 1 tsp instant dry yeast • ½ tsp salt • 3 tbsp butter, room temperature • 2 tbsp olive oil For the Cream Cheese Filling: • ¾ cup Mascarpone, room temperature • 1 tsp unsalted butter • 1 egg yolk • 5 tbsp white sugar • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 1 tbsp cornstarch • ½ cup heavy cream

DIRECTIONS For the Mascarpone Filling: 1. Place cream cheese, heavy cream and sugar into a saucepan. Sift in the cornstarch and whisk the ingredients together until they are dissolved and incorporated. Bring the mixture to a boil under low heat. 2. As the filling is heating up, use a hand blender to blend the cream cheese until smooth. Add in the egg yolk and continue blending until a silky texture is achieved.

Continue heating the mixture and stir constantly to prevent the egg yolks from scrambling. Take the filling off the heat and let it cool down.

weighing about 90 grams. Roll each ball into a round disk about 5-6 inches in diameter. Scoop a tablespoon of the Mascarpone filling into the center, spread it out so that it is half an inch away from the edges. 7. Take the edges of the dough, fold them into the center and gently seal. Then flip your dough over so the smooth side is facing up. With the palm of your hand rotate the ball of dough on your surface to create surface tension and to seal the edges of the dough completely. 8. Place the rounds of the dough onto the baking sheets, spacing them several inches apart. Cover loosely with plastic wrap that has been sprayed with a non-stick spray or lightly oiled to prevent the buns from sticking to the plastic wrap and let proof at room temperature until almost doubled in size (about 90 - 120 minutes). 9. Preheat the oven at 390˚F with the oven racks in the top and bottom thirds of your oven. Mix ½ cup of water with ½ tsp lemon juice , and brush a thin layer of this acidic water onto the surface of the dough. Do this very gently as the dough may deflate from strong force. 10. Bake the dough at 390˚F for 5 minutes. Open the oven door, brush another layer of acidic water on the dough and reduce the temperature to 330˚F and bake for another 10 minutes. Turn off the oven and wait 5 minutes before opening the oven. 6.

penn appétit 25

Mochi has always been one of my favorite desserts to get at a grocery store. It combines a chewy texture with a very light but pleasant flavor. Made in Japan, these delightful desserts are made of rice flour, turned stretchy and soft. Inside these balls of dough are hidden different fillings, whether it be ice cream, peanuts, or even- a delicious red bean paste.

Mochi w/ Red Bean Filling By Randy Bach; PHOTO BY DANIEL SHI Ingredients

Red Bean Paste • 1 cup of dried red beans • ½ cup brown sugar • 4 tbs. butter

Mochi • ¼ cup of corn starch • 1 cup sweet rice flour • ¼ cup granulated sugar • 1 cup water

Directions

Red Bean Paste 1.

2. 3.

4. 5.

Place the dried red beans to soak in a container of water overnight. This will help the beans cook easier and faster! Drain the beans and place into a pot. Pour water to generously cover the beans. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and then lower the heat. Maintain a simmer for around 6090 minutes, or until the beans become soft. Then turn off the heat and drain the beans. Mash or process the red beans until smooth. Pour the thick paste into a bowl and set aside. In a saucepan, add brown sugar and butter over medium heat. Stir until everything is melted and slightly bubbling. Lower the heat to low and add in the red bean paste. Slowly cook while stirring paste for 5 minutes, or until the paste becomes very thick. Take off the heat and allow it to cool. Afterwards, place into the fridge.

Mochi 1.

2. 3.

Yields: 12 pieces of mochi Prep time: Soak overnight, 5 minute prep Cook time: 90 minutes

5. 6.

Prepare a tray with parchment paper. Dust generously with corn starch to prevent sticking. In a microwave safe bowl, add rice flour, sugar, and water. Mix thoroughly with a whisk until a thick slurry is formed. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 1 minute. Take out the mixture and whisk to get rid of bumps. Cover with plastic and microwave for another minute. Use a rubber spatula to scoop out the mixture onto the parchment paper. Dust the dough with more corn starch. Roll the dough into an even layer, about ¼ inch thick. Add more corn starch as necessary to prevent the mochi from sticking to the roller and the tray. Set the dough into the fridge to cool for 30 minutes. Use a circle cookie cutter to cut as many circles as possible with the dough. With each circle, add a small spoonful of red bean paste into the center. Using your hands, wrap the dough around the paste and pinch the mochi closed. Wrap each mochi in plastic wrap to maintain its shape. Place onto a plate and into the fridge. penn appétit 27

I didn’t grow up eating toast. The first time I was even faced with the concept of “toast” as a food—eaten by itself nonetheless—was when I arrived at a friend’s house in the morning ready to carpool to summer camp together. She, unfortunately, wasn’t quite a morning person and had yet to eat breakfast, which happened to be two slices of white bread, only slightly toasted with some butter. Growing up, bagged and sliced bread from the grocery store wasn’t eaten by itself. If I was eating it all, it was likely in a sandwich. Chicken, turkey, egg, maybe even peanut butter and jelly sandwiches if you were feeling particularly classic (I never did). But at some point within the last few years, I began to realize that I was never experiencing bread at its best. It can be more than the Wonderbreads of our childhoods. There is something to be said about the wonderful artistry of bread, from the varieties in textures and nuances in flavors. Now, I love anything from sturdy Ezekiel bread to even an evenly toasted golden sourdough. I’ve learned to love rye and pumpernickel (I’ll take them marbled!), which have an earthy, sometimes tart, tangy flavor when a sourdough starter is incorporated. I do love a good cranberry walnut pecan toast with the sound of a butter knife swiping across its crisp surface. Toast, in particular, lends itself to being one of the best canvases the food world has to offer. Think about a crusty sourdough aroma permeating your kitchen as you layer on pesto, sliced tomatoes, and fresh mozzarella with an inky balsamic vinaigrette. How about one of my go-to combos? A fried egg with a few pinches of zaatar seasoning and flaky salt on smashed avocado and rye, topped with quick pickled onions and a few squirts of your favorite hot sauce? If you’re looking for a less timeconsuming option, skip the bells and whistles, and go right to a toast slathered in pesto and plop a fried egg on top. If you’re partial to the sweeter options, I’d recommend almost any combination of nut butter, fruit, and a drizzle of honey for a wholesome breakfast or snack you’ll be dreaming about all day long. A favorite over the summer consisted of Ezekiel toast topped with salted almond butter, a layer of thinly sliced peaches, and honey. And yes, while the flavor combinations are endless, staring at the blank canvas can be a little overwhelming. How many times have I stood in front of the refrigerator wondering whether to have a savory or sweet toast? I can’t say, but often I end up having both ;) I can’t say I’m the only one invested in elaborate toasts. I’m inspired by the artistic nature of assembling a well-done toast in terms of colors, textures, and flavors. I love much of Brittany Wright’s food-related artwork, but there’s this one image of extravagant and elaborate toasts that just seems to get me. At the end of the day, it’s the bread, covered by all manner of gregarious toppings, that I’d argue is the most important part, both in terms of flavor and structure. So don’t reach for any old bread. Try something new and grab pumpernickel or rye. If you’re feeling a little more cautious, pick up a trusty sourdough. With that, good luck and adieu on your toast journeys.

penn appétit 29

AN ODE TO ELABORATE TOAST: RECIPES CHARCUTERIE TOAST Yields: 2 servings/slices of toast Prep time: 5 min Cook time: 0 min Ingredients • 2 slices of bread of your choice • 2 medium tomatoes • 1 clove of garlic, minced • 5-8 slices of prosciutto or salami • 5-8 slices of semi-hard cheese (gouda, gruyere, swiss, cheddar, etc), thinly sliced • Add some sort of herb? • Salt and pepper • 1 tbsp Olive oil + more for drizzling Directions 1. Toast your pieces of bread to your desired level in a toaster or toaster oven 2. With a grater, grate your tomatoes into a puree. Add garlic, herb, salt, pepper and olive oil to the puree, mix well. 3. Spread the tomato puree on the toast, place a few slices of prosciutto or salami and your cheese on top. Top with a drizzle of olive oil and more salt and pepper if needed.

30 penn appétit

WHIPPED RICOTTA TOAST WITH BERRY JAM Yields: 2 servings/slices of toast Prep time: 8 min Cook time: 20 min Ingredients • 2 slices of bread of your choice • 2 cups of berries (frozen or fresh) • cups of sugar • 2 tsp lemon juice • ½ cup Ricotta cheese • ½ tsp Lemon zest • 1½ tbsp Heavy cream • Honey Directions 1. In a small saucepan on medium heat, add your berries, sugar, and lemon juice. Stir the mixture and bring it to a boil. Cook uncovered on medium-low heat, stirring frequently for about 15-20 minutes, or until the berries have softened to a jam-like consistency. 2. While the berry mixture is cooking, prepare the whipped ricotta by combining the ricotta, lemon zest, and heavy cream in a bowl and whisk with a fork until creamy. 3. Toast your pieces of bread to your desired level in a toaster or toaster oven 4. Spread the ricotta evenly on the toast, then spread the jam. Top with a drizzle of honey

TUNA MELT TOAST Yields: 2 servings/slices of toast Prep time: 10 min Cook time: 4-7 min Ingredients • 2 slices of bread of your choice • 2 cans of tuna, drained from the oil • 1 hard boiled egg, peeled • 2 tbsp celery or dill pickles (or both), diced • 2 tbsp parsley • 2 tbsp red onion, diced • 2 tbsp mayo • 1 tbsp mustard (optional) • 1/2 lemon, juiced • 2-4 slices of cheddar cheese • Salt and pepper to taste • Optional: dill, sliced tomatoes or pickled onions Directions 1. Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 375 degrees fahrenheit 2. Toast your pieces of bread to your desired level in a toaster, toaster oven, or oven 3. Combine tuna, egg, celery/pickles, onion, mayo, mustard, parsley, lemon, salt and pepper in a bowl, and mix well 4. Spread tuna salad evenly on the toast and top with cheese slices 5. Place on a baking sheet and into the oven for about 4-7 minutes, or until cheese begins to melt Optional: top the toast with dill, sliced tomatoes, or pickled onions

CHEESY EGG TOAST Yields: 2 servings/slices of toast Prep time: 5 min Cook time: 5 min Ingredients • 2 slices of bread of your choice • 2 tbsp Butter • 3 eggs • ¼ cup Cheddar Cheese (or other cheese of choice), grated • Salt and pepper • Optional: chives, red pepper flakes, or Sriracha Directions 1. Toast your pieces of bread to your desired level in a toaster or toaster oven 2. While the bread is toasting, whisk the eggs in a bowl with a big pinch of salt and pepper. 3. Heat a pan on medium heat and add 1 tbsp of butter. Pour in the whisked eggs and sprinkle the cheese on top. Once the egg starts cooking, pull the sides into the middle, and repeat until the egg is cooked (about 2-3 min or to your liking), and remove from the pan. Tip: it’s very easy to overcook your eggs, so make sure you take them off the heat or else they will keep cooking from the heat of the pan 4. Spread 1 tbsp of butter onto the toast, and lay your cheesy eggs on top. Optional: Top with chives, red pepper flakes, or a drizzle of Sriracha

ROASTED GARLIC TOAST WITH GOAT CHEESE AND ROASTED TOMATOES Yields: 2 servings/slices of toast Prep time: 5 min Cook time: 30-40 min Ingredients • 2 slices of bread of your choice • 1 full unbroken and unpeeled head of garlic • 2 tbsp Olive oil + more for drizzling • Salt and pepper to taste • 1 handful of cherry tomatoes • ½ tsp thyme • Crumbled goat cheese Directions 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees fahrenheit 2. Slice off the tip of your head of garlic (not the part with the root), exposing most of the cloves. Place your full head of garlic (peel and all) in the middle of a sheet of tinfoil, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, season with salt and pepper. 3. Wrap the foil around the head of garlic and place in a baking dish in the oven for about 30-40 min, or until the cloves are golden and soft. 4. Rinse your cherry tomatoes and place on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, season with salt, pepper, and thyme. 5. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are slightly blistered and soft. 6. Remove tomatoes and garlic from the oven and carefully squeeze out roasted garlic onto the two pieces of toast. Spread evenly, then add the roasted tomatoes and crumbled goat cheese on top.

penn appétit 31

Supermarket Showdown:

HEIRLOOM ACME SUPREMO VS

BY ANDIE GOLDMACHER | PHOTOS BY PINN CHIRATHIVAT

rom freshmen buying whatever perishable snacks can fit in their minifridge to upperclassmen filling their kitchen cabinets with cooking supplies, grocery shopping is an essential part of college. There are three main grocery stores around Penn: Heirloom, Acme, and Supremo. But with all of these options, you may find yourself wondering which is best for your needs. That’s where I come in. I took a trip to all three of these supermarkets and compared them so you don’t have to. I will be considering price, products offered, location, and overall aesthetic and cleanliness. To compare prices, I looked at the price for the same grapes and Pepperidge Farm wheat bread across all three supermarkets. I picked these items because I assumed all three grocery stores would carry them. I started my journey at Heirloom on 34th and Chestnut. As soon as you walk in, you are greeted by the fairly large produce section, with a wide variety of colorful fruits and vegetables on display. All of the produce appeared ripe and fresh. Grapes cost $2.49 per pound. Looping around the store, there is a wide variety of options: from shelf-stable snacks to dairy products such as ice cream, yogurt, and cheese, to wine and other spirits. Heirloom seems to be the most healthfood focused, carrying lots of “healthy alternative” snacks, such as cauliflower pretzels, chickpea puffs, Ezekiel bread, and low-calorie, high-protein ice cream. The Pepperidge Farm wheat bread costs $3.99 here. Since Heirloom is one of the only options right off Penn’s campus, they are able to charge high prices and retain business. “It’s not the most affordable for college students, but it’s one of the only options nearby,” one of the employees explained. I then walked a few blocks over to 40th and Walnut to visit Acme. The largest of the three, Acme even features its own Starbucks. Once you grab a shopping cart, you are immediately overwhelmed by the number of aisles and options. Making my way over to the produce section–pretty close to the entrance–I was shocked to see that grapes here cost $5.00 per pound, with the produce quality nowhere near as good as Heirloom’s. The berries looked moldy and

HEIRLOOM

rotting, and the grapes were not nearly as big or plump. While produce prices vary greatly between Heirloom and Acme, the same loaf of Pepperidge Farm bread also costs $3.99 here. Being the largest store, they certainly offer the widest variety, but it is less health-food focused. While healthy processed snacks are available here, there is a wider variety of that at Heirloom, and any grocery essentials you would purchase here are likely available at Heirloom as well. My final stop was a few blocks further to Supremo Market on 43rd and Walnut, slightly out of the way for most Penn students living closer to or on campus. You walk in facing the cash registers, and just to your left, you will find the produce section. There is not a huge variety of produce compared to both Acme and Heirloom, but the most basic berries and vegetables were there. Just like Heirloom, grapes here cost $2.49 per pound. While these grapes looked more fresh and ripe than Acme’s, I would have to give Heirloom the crown for produce quality. Supremo, however, has the most diverse range of food, from cactus leaves to shelves upon shelves of Goya beans. Along with grocery store essentials and some health-conscious snacks, Supremo largely features cuisine staples from around the world, particularly Latin America. Supremo feels a lot less sanitary than Acme or Heirloom— I even saw a rat run past the checkout line. My main takeaway from this journey–as I’m sure you’re all wondering– is that Heirloom won my supermarket showdown on all counts: location, price, variety of products, and overall aesthetic and cleanliness. 34th and Chestnut is a fairly central location on campus, and given that Heirloom and Supremo are charging pretty much the same for produce, Heirloom’s is definitely higher quality. Heirloom offers a wide variety of products that best suit my needs, from fresh and frozen fruit and vegetables to yogurts to healthy snacks for the dorm.

The market is big, but not overwhelming. It’s fairly easy to find everything you’re looking for, and it feels clean and sanitary. While grocery shopping in college often comes down to convenience at that moment you need to shop, if you have the choice, I would recommend spending your grocery money at Heirloom.

Heirloom won my supermarket showdown on all counts: location, price, variety of products, and overall aesthetic ACME and cleanliness.

SUPREMO

penn appétit 33

IT WAS THE

BEST

OF DOUGH IT WAS THE

WORST

OF DOUGH BY REBECCA JIANG PHOTOS BY OLIVIA KIM

ough, in the sense of the word that depicts mouth-watering displays of French patisseries or the batter left in your grandma’s stand mixer that you sneak while she slides the tray of unbaked cookies into the oven, has been a staple of the human diet since 8000 BC. In fact, the ancient Egyptians are credited with creating the earliest form of bread, leavened through wild yeast from the surrounding air and baked over an open fire. Since then, bread has risen to become a surviving -- yet overlooked -- symbol of economic status in virtually every country and every time period.

Thriving on Dough: As breadmaking became a developed practice in Ancient Egypt, a dichotomy between rich and poor quickly surfaced where bread for the high priest and Pharaoh was specially adorned with nature’s jewels: honey, berries, and sesame seeds. Perhaps the informal definition of dough as money arose from the fact that Egyptian workers who built the pyramids were actually paid in bread -- the original breadwinners, if you will. Baking as a profession went on to flourish during the Roman Empire because of how prized bread was. Luxurious

additives such as milk, eggs, and butter were incorporated to enrich both the bread itself and the privileged classes that ate it. The first Bakers Guild in Ancient Rome, Collegium Pistorum, would even send a representative to the Roman Senate, exemplifying how intertwined dough was to political, economic, and religious power. Dough as a vehicle of success and symbol of luxury is not a remnant of ancient history. Intricate pastries and grand, tiered wedding cakes are modern day examples of how this dichotomy continues. Especially considering the foundational perception of dessert as an optional luxury that is added onto a meal, people find incredible ways to redefine the standard of luxury and raise the bar for dessert -- from a $1.72 million diamond fruitcake to a gold leaf-adorned Krispy Kreme donut. In addition, social media has only expanded the frenzy for these exclusive items as consumers are now able to share their economic standing with the world through sharing pictures of these desserts; essentially saying “you’re making dough and getting it too.”

Surviving on Dough: By the same token, dough has meant the difference between life and death for some of history’s poorest communities

and worst economic downturns. The storming of Bastille, which ultimately incited the French Revolution, was not only a hunt for weaponry, but also primarily a desperate pursuit of bread, as poor grain harvests throughout the 18th century led to widespread hunger among the lower classes. Breadlines, an iconic phenomenon during the Great Depression, were long crowds of hungry city residents waiting for most of the daytime just for a small ration of bread. These exemplified the status of bread as the only survivable food source during an age of poverty, and were often located next to faded billboards that ironically displayed the lavish lifestyle of the Roaring Twenties just prior. Having laid within the tombs of pharaohs and precariously savored in times of extreme hunger, dough is a culinary element that truly spans geographical boundaries, historical time periods, and socioeconomic divides. Bread is incredibly unique in its ability to be valuable in the eyes of both the world’s most and least wealthy. The next time you go out with friends to eat, think about the types of dough you encounter, from pizza and pita to phyllo and choux pastry, and whether you feel like you’re surviving or thriving on that dough.

penn appétit 35

Yields: 4 servings Prep time: 15 mins Cook time: 1 hr

I n g r e d i e n t s Tapioca Pudding 3 ½ cups of coconut milk • ½ cup granulated sugar • pinch of salt • ½ cup mini tapioca pearls • 2 egg yolks • 1 tsp vanilla extract •

• •

Mango Purée 1 diced mango 1 tbsp. honey

D i r e c t i o n s 1. 2.

3. 4.

5. 6. 1. 2. 3.

36 penn appétit

Tapioca Pudding Add coconut milk to a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir in the sugar and sprinkle in a little salt, making sure everything is dissolved. Add the small tapioca pearls and cook on medium-low for 25 minutes, or as stated on the tapioca packaging. Make sure to keep the lid closed, but occasionally open the lid and stir to make sure tapioca does not stick or burn at the bottom of the pot. Remove from the heat after the tapioca pearls are plump and rest for 10 minutes with the lid closed. In a separate bowl, whisk together 2 egg yolks. Slowly temper the egg yolks by adding in small amounts of the warm tapioca, whisking constantly to make sure the egg yolks do not curdle. After doing this several times, slowly add the egg mixture into the tapioca, being sure to stir while doing so. Turn on the heat to medium and cook the tapioca for an additional 3 minutes, stirring constantly to thicken the mixture. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract. Mango Purée Leave out a handful of diced mango for garnish. Blend the rest of the mango and some honey into a purée. Layer the mango purée and tapioca pudding into a glass bowl/cup very slowly. To avoid mixing the layers, try using a spoon to slowly slide the tapioca/purée on top of one another. Decorate with diced mango and a sprig of mint/basil! Enjoy!

M a

ioca Pudd i n g Tap go BY RANDY BACH Calling all pudding lovers! If you’re looking for that familiar vanilla pudding taste with a twist, look no further. Tapioca pudding is made from tapioca starch pearls, which are derived from the cassava plant. Flourlike starch is combined with water to form a dough that is then cut into very small sized pearls. When thrown into sweetened milk, the pearls grow in size and turn into a sweet,creamy dessert! penn appétit 37

Ri s

Bre

o e

THE

A r d t a

BY JOSEPHINE BUCCINI PHOTOS BY @SOURDOUGH_ENZO

BREAD AND ART HAVE EXISTED FOREVER (WELL, ALMOST). Evidence from 30,000 years ago shows the beginnings of bread in multiple continents. India developed Naan 2,500 years ago, Italy has had focaccia for 2,000, and even the youngest forms, like English muffins from Britain, have existed for hundreds of years. Most people eat some form of bread everyday. And because it’s such a staple in nearly everyone’s lives, it has become more than just food. It has transcended the boundary into art. Bread is perhaps another institution that we adorn, like how we house our most important functions of society in the most beautiful spaces, or pay homage to our past with art.

In Jewish culture, challah is braided into beautiful shapes for various historical and cultural reasons. Ukrainian korovai, a decorative bread, is intricately sculpted for weddings, serving as both food and art. Birds on top of the sculpted bread represent the couple, and the intricate braiding represents the intertwining of the two families. Grapes, vines, and other designs adorn the koravai, which serve both as food for the guests and a centerpiece for the wedding. However, bread art is just as prevalent in less traditional spaces. During lockdowns, it seemed that everyone began experimenting with baking, and

the Instagram posts of sourdough starters were endless. A series of trends and fads later, bread art remains incredibly popular even after the height of the pandemic. Recently, social media has blown up with sourdough dusted with colors and Japanese bread roll art. My personal favorite trend is creating intricate designs with focaccia, often floral, with slices of vegetables in assorted shapes and colors. 342k followers are enamoured by @Konel_bread’s art on Instagram. She takes inspiration from sushi rolls, and when you cut open her breads, they reveal adorable characters and designs. Her bread is made by rolling separate tubes

of colored dough together, accounting for how the dough will rise and change shape. “It all started with the pandemic! I’ve always needed to have an artistic outlet in my life and at the same time have always loved baking,” says Rachel, also known as @sourdough_enzo on Instagram. She carves intricate designs into her bread by sprinkling flour on her risen sourdough and cutting designs into it with a razor. She also braids beautiful challah and dips bread loavwves into seed designs. She lays out seeds on her counter into intricate patterns and gently places her bread into it. “Sourdough bread art, for me, was the perfect marriage of two things that I love so much,” Rachel explained. Yana, @yanabechava on Instagram, writes about her practice of baking and designing bread, “It is therapy and friendship, comfort and indulgence. A new skill and burst of creativity. Inspiration and lesson in patience. A new world that seems to only be expanding and giving.” For those who make bread art, the process is both traditional and trendy,

methodical and creative. As Rachel puts it, “I feel that almost anything can be a form of art. Art, in my mind, is any form of creative expression combined with some degree of skill. Bread is a perfect example of that.”

SUNDRIED GALETTE Crust: • 2 sticks butter, cold and cut into cubes • 2 ½ cups flour • 1 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp fresh basil • 1 cup cold water • ¼ cup cider vinegar • 1 cup ice Tomato filling: • 1½ lb. heirloom tomatoes, sliced ¼" thick • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 4 oz. Greek feta (or brie) • 2 oz sun dried tomatoes • 1 large egg, beaten to blend • Flaky sea salt • Freshly ground black pepper • ½ lemon • 1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives FOR THE CRUST

2. 3.

Combine flour, sugar, salt and basil in a large bowl. Add the butter and coat the cubes in the flour mixture, using a spatula. Using a pastry blender, two knives, or your fingertips, cut the butter into the flour until most of the butter pieces are small, about the size of peas, with a few larger clumps. In a small bowl, stir together the water, cider vinegar, and ice. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of this over the flour/ butter mixture, and stir together using a spatula. Keep adding in the water mixture 2 tablespoons at a time (and get your hands in there to make sure everything is being incorporated) until you can get the dough to form a ball, with some dry crumbs remaining. You can add some more water to the dry bits if they need it, and then press everything together. Divide the dough in half. Form each half into a disk and wrap with plastic wrap. Chill it in the fridge for at least half an hour (preferably more) before rolling it out.

FOR THE GALETTE

Preheat oven to 400°. Gently toss

tomatoes, garlic, and remaining 1 tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Let sit for 20 minutes (tomatoes will start releasing some liquid). Drain tomato mixture and transfer to paper towels to remove extra moisture. I don't recommend skipping this step because we want to avoid soggy crusts! 2. Unwrap dough and roll out on a lightly floured sheet of parchment paper to a 14" round about " thick. Transfer on parchment to a baking sheet. Scatter cheese over dough, leaving a 1½" border. Arrange tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, and garlic over cheese. 3. Bring edges of dough up and over filling, overlapping as needed to create about a 1½" border; brush dough with egg. Sprinkle tomatoes with sea salt and pepper. Chill in the freezer for 10 minutes. 4. Bake galette, rotating once, until crust is golden brown and cooked through, 55– 65 minutes. Let cool slightly on a baking sheet. Finely grate zest from lemon over galette; sprinkle with chives.

TTEOKBOKKI (KOREAN SPICY RICE CAKE) BY YUJUNG LEE

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • •

1½ cups garaetteok (cylinder-shaped Korean rice cake) 4 sheets flat fish cake 1-2 stalks of green onion, sliced 2 eggs, hard boiled 2½ cups water Sauce 2 Tbsp Korean fine red pepper powder (can be substituted with 1 Tbsp of gochujang and 1 Tbsp of coarse red pepper flakes) 1 Tbsp Korean coarse red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 1 Tbsp oligo syrup (or corn syrup) 2 tsp ground pepper

DIRECTIONS 1.

Combine the fine and coarse red pepper flakes, gochujang, sugar, oligo syrup, and ground pepper in a bowl. Let it sit in the fridge until ready to use. 2. Wash the rice cakes under cold water and soak in water for 10 minutes. 3. Cut a fish cake sheet into 6 equal pieces longitudinally (long strips). Repeat for the remaining sheets of fish cake. 4. Slice green onion diagonally into ½ inch pieces. 5. In a medium saucepan, dissolve the sauce mixture in 2½ cups of water. 6. On medium-high heat, bring the sauce and water mixture to a light boil. 7. Drain the soaked rice cakes and add into the boiling sauce. 8. Boil for 10 minutes or until the rice cakes float to the top. 9. Add in fish cake strips and green onion slices. 10. Boil until the sauce thickens up and becomes shiny. 11. Add hard boiled eggs and cook for another minute. 12. Serve on a flat plate or in a soup bowl, and enjoy!

40 penn appétit

Yields: 2 servings Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 18-20 minutes

You know that feeling when you’re baking sourdough and it’s nearly time to pull it from the oven? A slightly sweet, yeasty aroma fills your kitchen, the heat from the appliance warming your skin. There’s five seconds left on your timer and you’re pacing in front of the oven, pot holder in hand, visions of that Instagram-worthy crackly crust making your mouth water. You open the oven door and grab the pan and — It’s ugly. With a loud, violent clang, you drop the pan onto your stove to cool, turn on the light, and stare. And all you feel is shock. Confusion. Disappointment. A fun mix of all three. The loaf smells amazing — like home and happiness and afternoons spent with your grandmother — but what you’ve just made looks nothing like the photos you’ve liked on Instagram. The crust isn’t golden-brown; perhaps it’s a little burnt in some places. It’s a little lumpy, a little misshapen. It’s not exactly terrible, but it’s not quite right. It’s not really that ugly though, is it? There’s promise. Generally speaking, it could pass as bread-shaped, and who’s to say that it won’t taste better than it looks? Appearances can be deceiving, after all. Maybe it’s not that bad, you think to yourself. I’m just being too self-critical. But it could be better. Why isn’t it

better? Y o u r mom, your friend, your brother — they say it smells great, looks great, but you don’t see what they see. To you it looks terrible. Unappetizing. Hideous. You’re frustrated with your apparent lack of baking skills. Breadmaking is overhyped. Sourdough is too difficult. Keeping a starter is so not worth it. Let’s back it up a little though — deep breath….1…. 2….3. Maybe it’s about the process, not the result. Searching for the right recipe, feeding your starter every day after class, and But you don’t want to eat this bread anymore. How could you, when it looks the way it does? You don’t even want to try again — you’d probably feel like this all over again. But soon enough, once you’ve peeled yourself off the kitchen floor and made your way back to the stove, your stomach rumbles and you begrudgingly cut a small slice

from the now-cooled loaf. And it’s good. Better than good, really. It’s incredible. Soft and chewy and incredible. Sometimes bread is just ugly. There’s no other way to put it. Sometimes you can’t properly knead the dough because your ancient stand mixer shorts the entire kitchen, or you don’t realize your oven is 50° off from where it should be, or you take a nap and sleep through the annoying alarm on your phone telling you it’s time to check on your bread. Most of the time though, you don’t need that perfectly aesthetic ear or open crumb to have a good loaf of sourdough. However ugly the bread looks, chances are it still tastes great.

Mistakes happen. To other people. Definitely not to you. kneading the dough were fun. Who cares that the loaf didn’t turn out perfectly? You’ve learned a lot about fermentation and breadmaking techniques and tradition. But you don’t want to eat this bread anymore. How could you, when it looks the way it does? You don’t even want to try again — you’d probably feel like this all over again. But soon enough, once you’ve peeled yourself off the kitchen floor and made your way back to the stove, your stomach rumbles and you begrudgingly cut a small slice from the now-cooled loaf. And it’s good. Better than good, really. It’s incredible. Soft and chewy and incredible. Sometimes bread is just ugly. There’s no other way to put it. Sometimes you can't properly knead the dough because your ancient stand mixer shorts the entire kitchen, or you don’t realize your oven is 50° off from where it should be, or you take a nap and sleep through the annoying alarm on your phone telling you it’s time to check on your bread. Most of the time though, you don’t need that perfectly aesthetic ear or open crumb to have a good loaf of sourdough. However ugly the bread looks, chances are it still tastes great.

Mistakes happen. To other people. Definitely not to you.

By Emily Truong

penn appétit 43

GONE VIRAL HOW THREE PHILLY BAKERIES MOBILIZED ONLINE

BY ANDIE GOLDMACHER, PHOTO BY DHIVYA ARASAPPAN Strolling through the streets of Philadelphia, there seems to be a bakery everywhere you turn, selling everything from pastries and bon bons to cakes and breads; but the bakery scene hardly ends there. With the virtual world rapidly growing from the pandemic, inventive bakers saw an opportunity to use the internet to sell their goods without a storefront. I’ve interviewed three of the inspiring founders of some of the best online bakeries in Philadelphia—Hey Sugar!, Second Daughter Baking Co., and Kouklet Brazilian Bakehouse—to hear about how they got their start, how they make their goods, and the future of their bakeries.

Hey Sugar! Though she never expected to run her own confectionery fulltime, founder Davina Soondrum started Hey Sugar! in December 2020 as a result of the pandemic. She was working for a catering company when the pandemic began and she lost her job. “Restaurants are still having a tough time, so the last thing most companies are looking for is a pastry chef,” she explained. While Soondrum initially intended for Hey Sugar! to be a candy business, at the start of quarantine, she started making custom cake orders for her Instagram followers, so the confectionery now offers both. Her cakes are entirely customizable, and have been decorated with everything from huge elephants, to elmo, to a mouthwatering stack of donuts. Soondrum carefully makes and curates her candy offerings, combining seasonal flavors and mainstays like a classic 72% dark chocolate. She tries to accommodate as many different flavor profiles as possible to satisfy milk, white, and dark chocolate lovers, she explained. “It’s always a nice surprise when you open the box and see them, I’ve heard them called little jewels.” While it would be helpful for her customers to have a walk-in option to see her candies, it has never made sense or appealed to Soondrum to have a storefront due to the amount of product she would have to sell to upkeep it. However, a storefront “is not a never say never situation,” she says. “I’ve developed a fan base that is very humbling and overwhelming at the same time. I appreciate everyone’s business and I try to give everyone the same care and concern I would give myself.”

Hey Sugar!

Second Daughter Baking Co. Kouklet Brazilian Bakehouse

Second Daughter Baking Co. Sisters Rhonda Saltzman and Mercedes Brooks have been selling beautifully decorated cakes and cookies via Etsy for years, but when they found themselves living together during the pandemic, they began to pursue Second Daughter full time. “We positioned ourselves throughout our career to start pursuing this full time, but with the pandemic it became how we made a way for ourselves,” Saltzman explained. The pair started in their mother’s kitchen in November 2020, and moved to a shared commercial space on January 1, 2021. Second Daughter prides themselves on freshbaked goods using seasonal ingredients from Indian Orchard and Green Meadows farms in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. “We source our eggs and dairy locally because we want to put the community first, and the only way to do so is supporting it.” Saltzman adds, “We are very proud of our brownies,” which are shipped nationwide. The pair’s business strategy has allowed Second Daughter to rapidly expand in the pandemic ecosystem. Their pre-order system allows them the flexibility to shut small orders temporarily so they can take on large private events and allows for more intimate interactions with their customers. “We have a lot of customer interaction through emails and calls,” Saltzman said. While Brooks and Saltzman recognize the benefits of quick-sale interactions in storefronts, they have hosted bake sales “so people can come and get one brownie and not a whole tray,” and are expanding into pop-ups around the city to enhance the retail component of the bakery without having the overhead of storefront, Saltzman explained. In October, the sisters will be moving from their shared space to their own commercial space, which will allow them to double production capacity and host baking workshops.

Kouklet Brazilian Bakehouse Inspired by the flavors of home, founder Mardhory Cepeda created Kouklet in 2018 to share them with the world. Cepeda started the business in New York, but she and her husband moved to Philly from Astoria, Queens in 2019 and relocated the business to Philly in early 2020 right before the pandemic. Kouklet creates a wide variety of Brazilian sweets, but their main focus is their cake rolls, or bolo de rolo, which they sell by the slice, half loaf, and full loaf and ship nationwide. The cake is a very thin layer of sponge made from four ingredients: butter, eggs, flour, and sugar. The bakers spread a very thin layer of batter, then pile on various homemade fillings. “Whatever ingredients we can get locally, we try to,” Cepeda explained. While the most popular flavor is the classic guava, because “most people want to try what they would try in Brazil first,” Kouklet offers a wide variety of fillings, Cepeda said. Cepeda’s favorites are the guava and the caramelized orange and milk. Due to the supportive community in Philly, Kouklet has been able to gradually expand from just Cepeda to a team of three people, and open their first storefront in East Passyunk in mid-December 2021. While the biggest benefit of operating remotely has been the overhead, as Kouklet has been renting a commissary kitchen at a very affordable rate will all of the kitchen equipment provided, the kitchen is in a remote location and “public transportation does not really go there,” Cepeda explained. Cepeda is looking forward to consolidating all bakery production to the East Passyunk location.

penn appétit 45