Spring 2010 by penn appétit

Penn Appetit

issue 6 / spring 2010 spring 2010 / penn appĂŠtit / 1

letter from the editor / spring 2010

inside

exclusive recipes

Maple-mustard Brussels sprouts 10 Smokey maple sweet potatoes 18 Mini Mojito cupcakes 23 Pickled beet eggs 25 Homemade marshmallows 27

Penn Appetit Editor-in-Chief Design Editors Photo Editors Business Manager Publicity Manager Treasurer Blog Editors Story Editors

Copy Editors

Layout Staff

Business Staff

Elise Dihlmann-Malzer Jaclyn Chen Jeena Choi Michael Chien Christiana Hay Cady Chen Celine Kosian Alex Brownstein Tucker Johns Marianne O’Brien Michelle Cryder Yaanik Desai Khánh-Anh Lê Karuna Meda Eesha Sardesai Teagan Schweitzer Yaanik Desai Emma Morgenstern Sandra Rubinchik Richie Stark Celine Kosian Maddie Hunt Stacey Lee Nana Adwoa Sey Charlotte Crowley John Meadows Ann Oh Stephanie Siaw Kate Wiber Eric Yoshida

Dear readers and eaters, I’m sure I grew up in the only house in Wisconsin where TastyKakes have a designated spot in the pantry, soft pretzels are a favorite afternoon snack, and homemade cheesesteaks are common dinner fare. Though I am a Midwestern gal through and through, Philadelphia foods have always been part of my life. My father, born and raised in Philly, made sure of that. But it wasn’t until I moved here for college that I could fully appreciate the city’s dynamic culinary scene. What surprised me most was how Philadelphia had been reduced to a onedish-wonder by the national media, when in reality, the city offers so much gastronomic diversity to its eaters. Beginning in the 1980s and continuing to this day, a restaurant revolution of sorts has been occurring in the City of Brotherly Love. Prior to this massive change, excellent food could only be had at a few establishments; now, I can’t seem to go more than a few days without adding another eatery to my never-ending “must-try” list. Looking at this issue of Penn Appétit, it seems that our writers have been encountering the same situation. The magazine is packed with articles about the foods, restaurants, and people that make Philadelphia’s culinary offerings so interesting and accessible. Richie Stark helps you forget the cheesesteak as he describes the mouthwatering Philly classic that is the Italian roast pork sandwich (page 7). Michelle Cryder explores how Pennsylvania Dutch culture has shaped Philadelphia’s cuisine (page 25). And Iron Chef Jose Garces shares why he thinks Philadelphia is such a great city to cook and eat in (page 30). These articles are just a taste of what’s inside Penn Appétit this semester, and Penn Appétit offers only a glimpse of some of the many culinary delights to be found in this great city. I hope that what you find in this issue encourages you to get out and explore all that Philadelphia’s unique food culture has to offer. I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Cover photo by Christiana Hay and Michael Chien

Elise Dihlmann-Malzer Editor-in-Chief

restaurant U bar 306 market street, philadelphia 215 625 9425 forkrestaurant.com open seven days lunch U brunch U dinner U late night private dining U catering

the art of old world baking Visit our new website www.metropolitanbakery.com! 2 / penn appétit / spring 2010

gently sophisticated

Make any address Fork at Fork: etc . Prepared foods to go and catering.

When I began thinking about opening my own restaurant, I found that I wanted to stay in Philly.

The food scene here is exciting, and since opening Amada in 2005, I’ve built my life—and my family—here.

jose garces REVIEW: VILLAGE WHISKEY 28 Interview 30

contents

careers in food

Many jobs outside the restaurant await today’s generation of food lovers.

RAY MODERSKI An exclusive interview with a former Philly restaurateur, with his perspective on the city’s restaurant renaissance.

Philly’s #1 sandwich 07 Philadelphia’s best sandwich may be getting overshadowed by its most iconic.

spring 2010 Perfectly offal

Offal is too often left out of American fare. Eating it though, can be a healthy, tasty, and environmentally friendly choice.

eat French in philly

From bread to cheese, the French know a thing or two about good food. Learn where to find the best French classics around the city.

A DISH of history

Catfish, waffles, and coffee used to be the dish that brought tourists to Philadelphia.

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

A pinch here and a sprinkle there can add some color to your daily routine.

MAPLE SYRUP

A behind-the-scenes look at the time and effort required to turn sap into syrup.

DIM SUM

Dim sum offers a snapshot of a unique part of Chinese cuisine and culture.

BRUSSELS sprouts

Despite their bad reputation, these cabbages deserve a bit more love.

Fondant—or don’t

BAKE-OFF 2010

Penn bakers battle it out, trying to earn their confectionsthe title of best in show.

Using fondant is en vogue in the world of cake decorating. Its appearance is clean, but its taste leaves much to be desired.

PUrple eggs & ham

Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine adds vivid hues and flavors to Philadelphia’s culinary scene.

Marshmallow magic

Handmade marshmallows are surprisingly simple to make and taste far better than the store-bought variety. CRAVING MORE? Check out the Penn Appétit blog at www.pennappetit.com spring 2010 / penn appétit / 3

people and places / careers

thinking outside the restaurant by JAMIE NICHOL AS A STUDENT at the very career-oriented university that is Penn, it’s probably unusual that I don’t know what I want to do after graduation. As of yet, I have been unable to reconcile my main interest—food—with the working world. Reacting to my indecision, people exclaim, “You should open a restaurant!” or “Why don’t you become a chef?” However, I know that other niche opportunities await me in the gastronomic community. The growing public awareness about the role of food in our culture means more possibilities for people who look at food as more than a means to achieving satiety. There are increasingly more job opportunities available in the culinary realm. As Paul Bulau, district manager of Bon Appétit Management Company, the dining service at Penn, observes about the food industry, “What it looks like today is not what it’s going to look like tomorrow.”

FOOD

+ Business =

FOOD

+ Environment =

FOOD

+ Shopping =

FOOD

+ Science =

Food Service Manager

Non-Profit Food Director

Gourmet Foods Buyer

Food Scientist

Food service managers oversee the daily and longterm activities of operations that provide food for patrons. Bon Appétit Management Company actively promotes and observes sustainable dining practices such as using local ingredients. “My role in Bon Appétit is quite different than what you would normally find in some of the big corporations,” says Paul Bulau. “It’s all about the food. We’re not a big production company; we really develop site specific programs that are going to fit into the community.”

Community organizations raising awareness about socially responsible food consumption and production practices have become more prevalent in recent years. The Farm to Institution Program of Fair Food in Philadelphia, which helps connect local farmers to larger institutions, is one such example. Deb Bentzel of Fair Food notes, “I love seeing food service professionals get excited about making changes. They feel good about what they’re doing, they’re proud of what they’re doing, and I’m proud of them.”

A gourmet foods buyer works for specialty grocery stores or restaurants, seeking out highquality food products. Buyers can also specialize in wine or beer. This job requires an indepth knowledge of both the market and the food industry, and a sensitive palate. Buyers often have the opportunity to interact with customers to find them the perfect product, and to educate them about their finds. Some of the numerous job perks in this field include frequent taste-testing and travel to discover new items.

This job is for the chemist or biologist who also has a love for food. Food scientists can work for the government to regulate and maintain the health and safety of food, develop new products and methods for preservation and production, and explore the dietary implications of different substances and preparation techniques. Food science is an everexpanding field, especially with the growing international interest in nutrition and food security. Many jobs in this field require either a Master’s degree or a Doctorate.

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people and places / ray moderski Chocolate croissants— one of Ray’s confections.

Ray Moderski knows a little something about pastries. He was born and raised in Philadelphia, and after service in the navy, studied invertebrate biology at Penn. He later moved to Paris to study cooking at École de Cuisine de La Varenne, and went on to own and operate three restaurants in Philadelphia. In 1992 he received a degree in nursing, and in 1998 a master’s degree in Oncology, both from the University of Delaware. Now retired from a career in nursing, Ray lives in Naval Square where he offers baking lessons to curious pupils. He is also working on a book about European pastries. Read his interview on the next page. interview by teagan schweitzer photos by teagan schweitzer and michael chien spring 2010 / penn appétit / 5

people and places / ray moderski PA: What is your background in food? RM: I grew up in a family where, because of European influence, food was always a celebration. Dinner was a time to sit down and be with family during the week. On weekends it was a time to be with family and grandparents. These meals were a celebration of the time we had together and the food we had. PA: How did you get interested in cooking and baking? RM: One day, I just decided that I wanted to become a better cook. I started off using Julia Child’s Mastering the Art to expand my technique, palate, and ideas on food. Then I got into a circle of friends that were very into food and they were also very competitive about making the best food. We would have people over to dinner one or two times a week. There was no sense of fear for me about serving anything to dinner guests. This fearlessness developed and allowed me to become a good critic of my own food. PA: Did you have any formal training? RM: In 1980, I took the professional level curriculum course at La Varenne (in Paris) for nine months. This was the best thing I could have ever done. It got me out of the Philadelphia mentality. The school was taught in French and I did not speak a word of French. But within a few weeks in France I learned quickly and picked

the language up. Even though it was great it was still not restaurant experience. In the 1990s, I went to the School for American Chefs at Beringer to work with Madeleine Kamman. She is one of the great culinary teachers left. She taught by taking us out to the market at 5 a.m. to make the best purchases. Then we had to create two menus with what we’d purchased. You’d just have to come up with things you were going to do from the components. PA: What was it like owning a restaurant in Philadelphia? Why did you choose here? RM: I got into the restaurant business during the Philadelphia restaurant renaissance. Before that time, La Panetiere and Le Bec Fin were the only two quality restaurants in the city. The other restaurants weren’t great cuisine; they didn’t challenge anyone. But all of a sudden people decided they wanted to open restaurants. I went to Russell’s and the owner said, “do you want to buy this?” I had the energy, and the price was very reasonable. It was amazing to own a restaurant at that time. People were kind of competitive because they wanted to break even, but they were much more open about sharing the food scene. Most of the people were like me—artsy with some background and experience. They were bohemian restaurant owners. You could do anything. I experimented, in my own style.

PA: What do you think makes Philadelphia different than other food cities? RM: The diversity and the way the restaurant idea has grown. People are coming to a more European mentality of celebrating with food and meals. We’ve got such a wonderful collection of restaurants today—wonderful Italian, the Asian cuisines all well-represented, interesting Indian restaurants—that have all really blossomed. Every meal that I’ve had since I’ve been back to Philly has been good. Some were expensive, some cheap. The diversity makes Philly amazing. People really know how to use a restaurant; they had to learn that. Food is the focus of the celebration. PA: What advice would you give to people who want to go into a food-related field? RM: Get some experience, but most importantly go out and eat and read. If you want to do something in the area of food, you have to have it in your brain, you have to be able to taste, and you have to understand the components. PA: What inspires you about food? RM: The experience of eating a great dinner, especially when the dishes involve things that I have played and worked with in my own life, I go “wow” and am dazzled. A sauce or a great dessert gets me to want to go back and play; it inspires me and I want to see if I can do that too. It gets my juices going.

LEFT: Moderski coats a layer cake with smooth, shiny chocolate ganache. RIGHT: His mantra is simple: “Make good food, make it appealing, make it taste good.”

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local / pork sandwiches

Layers of sliced roast pork, broccoli rabe, sharp provolone, a crusty roll—the key elements of a Philly roast pork sandwich.

philly’s hidden treasure Philadelphian cuisine has become synonymous with the hot, gooey, grease-dripping mess that is the cheesesteak—but it may not even be the best sandwich in the city. BY RICHIE STARK PHOTOS BY CHRISTINE LOUI THOUGH THE roast pork sandwich, like the cheesesteak, exists thanks to the ItalianAmericans of South Philadelphia and should be eaten on a baked long roll, its contents differentiate it from the rest of the city’s sandwich scene. The pork sandwich is a complex and savory meal comprised of sliced roasted pork shoulder, sharp provolone cheese, and sautéed broccoli rabe, all stuffed inside a crusty long roll. Despite its merits, Philadelphia roast pork is not sharing the national stage with the cheesesteak. One reason may be that most parts of the U.S. have treasured regional pork sandwich recipes, so importing another city’s would be downright blasphemous. Also, unlike the quick cooking cheesesteak, preparing roast pork is a process which requires both time and diligence. The juicy pork is the key to a great sandwich. Rubbed with a combination of herbs, and slow-roasted with garlic and onions for hours, infusing the meat with tremendous

flavor. It’s then sliced and simmered in its own juices before being served. An alternative to sliced roast pork is its cousin, pulled braised pork, which has recently been showing up on the menus of premier pork sandwich eateries. In an article for his blog, “Unbreaded,” Jeff Vogel describes the cooking process: “the pulled pork is marinated for a day with spices and fresh aromatics, then browned and slow cooked till the meat falls off the bone, simmered in the same natural stock as the roast pork, plus some wine and tomato sauce.” Regardless of which variety of pork you opt for, sharp, aged provolone is the pungent cheese that will melt over it into the bread. Aged provolone contributes a more pronounced bite than would the typical mild provolone served at delicatessens. Topping the sandwich with bitter, garlicky broccoli rabe adds another dimension to the sandwich. The greens are often cooked with red pepper flakes to add heat. Some places also offer non-traditional

variations like sautéed spinach, which is slightly sweeter and milder. Adding long hot peppers is often an option for those who want a sandwich with more kick. The foundation of the roast pork sandwich is the roll. The bread must simultaneously absorb the juices from the pork and broccoli rabe, allowing the flavors to mingle, while remaining a neat and sturdy carrier for the delightful disorder inside. The perfect vehicle is a Philadlephia-baked Italian long roll, which is soft and chewy on the inside with a firm outer crust. As this delicious sandwich gains popularity, more places outside of South Philadelphia are starting to serve it. The best known roast pork sandwiches in the city are made at DiNic’s at Reading Terminal Market, John’s Roast Pork at Snyder and Weccacoe Aves., and Tony Luke’s, at Front Street and Oregon. Next time you find yourself craving a bit of Philly flavor on a roll, treat yourself to a hot roast pork sandwich. spring 2010 / penn appétit / 7

Tripe—a variety of offal made from the lining of an animal’s stomach—is a common ingredient in many Asian, African, and European dishes. The pearly white ribbons have a subtle, savory flavor and a chewy texture.

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elements / expand your repertoire

PERFECTLY OFFAL (it’s pronounced ‘awful’)

Due to its unsavory reputation, offal is underutilized in American cooking. However, its rich tradition in many cuisines around the world signals that perhaps it deserves a second look. by patrick chung photos by Dana Robinson

OFFAL IS an integral part of many countries’ cuisines, but until recently, it was incredibly difficult to find on menus in the United States. Categorized by most Americans as mystery meat, entrails, or parts of animals that should be thrown away, offal is actually environmentallyfriendly, healthy, and surprisingly tasty. As such, offal is beginning to enjoy an appetizing niche in United States food culture. Offal, pronounced like the word “awful,” shares its etymology with the German, Dutch, Norwegian, and Danish words for “garbage.” Many parts of an animal are included in this catch-all term, including feet, brain, kidney, tongue, coagulated blood, and scrotum. Offal has enjoyed a rich and venerable tradition in much of Europe, Africa, and Asia, where historically, animals were slaughtered only if indulgency permitted, leading to a belief that no part should be wasted. The Italians call offal la cucina povera, or “poor food,” a reminder of its utilitarian origins. Offal is a staple in Korean cuisine, so it has always been a part of my life. One of the first meals I remember vividly is boiled ox tail, a salty delicacy that melts in your mouth. Yet, in the U.S., I had trouble finding offal outside of Chinese and Korean restaurants; apart from a few dishes such as Rocky Mountain oysters (fried bovine testicles) and scrapple, American cuisine seemed to lack offal. Considering the history of the American meat industry, this is not surprising. U.S. meat prices have been low since the late 19th century due to the surplus of cattle raised in the West. Jack Ubaldi writes in his work, Meat Book, “We became a nation of muscle-meat eaters and could afford to throw out the innards and other exotica…” Therefore, my offal options were quite limited until the recent surge in popularity of these “variety meats,” spearheaded by European-trained chefs. Thomas Keller, considered by some to be America’s greatest living

chef, devotes an entire chapter of his French Laundry Cookbook to stress the “Importance of Offal.” “It’s easy to cook a filet mignon, or to sauté a piece of trout… and call yourself a chef,” he writes. “But that’s not real cooking. That’s heating. Preparing tripe, however, is a transcendental act.” Eating well-prepared offal offers an equally spiritual experience. Mario Batali, of Iron Chef fame and of the posh New York restaurant Babbo, creates my favorite offal dish, testa, which is made by boiling a pig’s head and using the materials that rise to the water’s surface to make an aged salami. Although paying top dollar for pig grey matter may seem absurd, the character of this dish surpasses all expectations. It also attests to the respect and painstaking care that master chefs give to offal. I have had filets that lack the bold flavor, crunchy and tender textures, and subdued aroma of this cured brain. It makes sense that offal is so becoming popular; it’s too good to throw aside like America has for decades. There are now a variety of places to try offal in Philadelphia. Chic restaurants such as Bibou (1009 S. 8th Street) and Vetri (13th and Spruce) offer mouthwatering delicacies in Keller-esque extravagance. More moderately-priced offal-serving establishments include the Portuguese Koo Zee Doo (614 North 2nd Street), where the fried chicken gizzards are superb, and the Italian Modo Mio (161 W. Girard), that has impossibly-tender veal cheek. For more of an adventure, Chinatown presents endless opportunities to sample the eclectic tastes of offal. Restaurants offer reasonably priced, rustic delicacies, and street vendors sell delicious cart offal, including the must-try deep-fried pork intestine. With such a wide range of offerings and broad price spectrum, offal has never been more accessible or fashionable for casual diners. If offal piques your interest, head to one of many local restaurants to partake in this culinary trend. spring 2010 / penn appétit / 9

in the kitchen / vegetable

for the love of sprouts BY KATE ARIAN PHOTO BY ZACH WASSERMAN

Thursday mornings made me cringe. On these days I would wake up, look at the Lisa Frank calendar above my desk, and realize that it was Brussels sprouts day. Anticipating my fate upon returning home from school on Thursdays was enough to instill a sense of dread in my feeble third grade consciousness. Week after week, the sprouts remained untouched on my dinner plate. Despite my persistent complaints, my mother continued to prepare sprouts every week, assuring me that I would thank her one day. Fast-forward 13 years and I am the cabbage queen. Reigning over campus with an iron fist, it has become my personal mission to reform Penn’s most crucifer-hating students. Appreciating the struggle of those born with an aversion to all things leafy and green, I simply want others to open up and experience these same culinary pleasures. Like most journeys, my transformation began with a courageous first experience. While it was not quite love at first bite, the moment I placed that inaugural Brussels sprout in my mouth marked the beginning of my transition towards an expanded palate. With each additional encounter, my taste for Brussels sprouts grew. By the time I began at Penn, I could honestly say that I was a lover of the tiny green cabbages. Once I began to appreciate them, it felt like Brussels sprouts were everywhere. Appearing in highbrow publications and the classiest of restaurants, not a single cultivated palate seemed able to resist them. Heralded in food publications as “ingredient of the year,” Brussels sprouts were unavoidable. From casual diner grub to more sophisticated ethnic fare, chefs were defying expected combinations, incorporating the cruciferous greens into

all sorts of surprising recipes. Brussels sprouts with Kimchi puree and bacon made an appearance in Chef David Chang’s celebrated Momofuku cookbook, while pizzerias across the country introduced innovative dishes such as Brussels sprouts with prosciutto breadcrumbs, and Brussels sprout pizza. Philly restaurant, Sampan, began offering crispy sprouts alongside their traditional Asian cuisine. Brussels sprouts may be en vogue in the restaurant world, but they are not always warmly received by eaters. Modern sprout aficionados believe that this bad reputation could be reversed if people knew some basic preparation guidelines. Brussels sprouts should not be overcooked, and they taste best refrigerated in an airtight container for no longer than three days after they are cooked. Although Brussels sprouts are considered a cool weather vegetable, they are available nearly year round. Almost all U.S. Brussels sprouts are grown in California, where good weather reduces many seasonal constraints on the growing season. They are also always available frozen. For those who enjoy them, Brussels sprouts offer a range of health benefits. Like other members of the crucifer family, including arugula, turnips, radishes, and broccoli, sprouts are loaded with vitamin A, folacin, potassium, calcium and other beneficial nutrients. In addition to their suspected cancer fighting properties, they are low in fat and calories. Brussels sprouts boast an impressive 5g of fiber per cup and are particularly high in protein, making them a great addition to a vegetarian or vegan diet. Whether on a newly inspired health kick or simply following your taste buds, Brussels sprouts have something to offer every audience. So take that courageous first bite—you’ll be hooked.

Maple-Mustard Brussels Sprouts serves six to eight

Ingredients 4 slices bacon 2 lbs. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and alved 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. maple syrup 1 Tbsp. lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste

Recipe courtesy of Elise Dihlmann-Malzer

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directions Render bacon in large skillet on medium heat. Once crisp, remove from pan. Toss sprouts into pan with bacon drippings, and sauté until they turn bright green and become tender, about six minutes. Mix the mustard, maple syrup, and lemon juice, and pour over sprouts, stirring to coat. Crumble bacon and gently incorporate. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

elements / baking

fondant— or fondon’t if used properly, fondant has the potential to enhance a cake’s visual aesthetic. a fine line, however, lies between tasteful decorations and gaudy embellishments. BY eesha sardesai PHOTO BY christiana hay

We’ve all seen it: that six-foot-tall, gravity-defying cake on Ace of Cakes or Food Network Challenge, covered in an edible blanket of fondant. These extravagant cakes are sensationalized by the modern media for their style, but why isn’t their taste ever called into question? After all, the most obvious reason for baking a cake is to eat it. In many food competitions, televised cake shows, and commercial bakeries, the appearance of a cake is often given priority over the taste. The root of this decision lies in the fondant. Fondant is a thick, creamy sugar paste used to cover cakes. Confectioner’s sugar, water, and gelatin are combined and set out to dry until a hardened putty is formed. This doughy icing is then rolled out to a uniform thickness, at which point it can be used to cover a cake, yielding a smooth appearance. By using fondant, chefs have the ability to turn cakes into works of art. Though fondant can be instrumental in bringing a cake to life, many people don’t think much of the taste; sickeningly sweet and thick to the point of chewiness, the best that can be said for it is that it’s not bad. Given the tasty alternatives, however, fondant becomes less appealing. Buttercream, for example, is a common favorite. This rich icing is made with powdered sugar, butter, cream, vanilla extract, and occasionally, eggs. A delectable blend of melted dark chocolate,

Slice of c ake, Greg’s 3rd birthda y Oct. ll, 20 07

cream, and at times, liqueurs, chocolate ganache is another elegant alternative. Moreover, its smooth, shiny finish provides a sophisticated look which rivals that of fondant. But this trend of covering expensive, high-quality cakes with fondant continues. Sacrificing a cake’s taste for its appearance is at odds with the philosophy of the rest of the culinary world. While appearance is always important—an idea exemplified by the often elaborate plating of dishes in restaurants—it is still the taste of a food that truly defines it. The rules should be no different for desserts. This does not mean that fondant should be banished entirely from the world of cake baking and decorating; rather, its role in the process should be re-examined. For one, it is not uncommon for chefs to misuse fondant. If the ingredients are not combined properly, the texture of the fondant becomes grainy, compromising the overall texture of the cake. Or, if fondant is rolled too thick, each bite of delicious cake is overwhelmed by globs of the chewy substance. Pastry chefs also have a tendency to overuse fondant, choosing to drape it over an entire cake, rather than using it as an accent in specific areas. If bakers pay careful attention to where and how fondant is used, they can achieve incredible visual art in a cake, without compomising its taste and texture. But as for me, I think I’ll stick with the buttercream.

Fondant Alternatives Buttercream Classic buttercream usually involves making a custard, then beating butter into it until the mixture reaches frosting consistency. A smooth layer of buttercream goes well with almost any kind of cake, from carrot to plain chocolate or vanilla. Whipped Cream A simple whipped cream frosting contains fresh whipped cream, powdered sugar, and flavorings. The cornstarch in powdered sugar helps to stabilize the frosting. If you choose to decorate cakes or other desserts with this light, refreshing mixture, be sure to keep them refrigerated so the cream does not spoil. Ganache Ganache makes a beautiful shiny glaze for cakes or cookies. If you chill and beat a ganache, the aerated result can be used to frost a layer cake, or can be formed into balls and rolled in cocoa powder (or other toppings) to make truffles. spring 2010 / penn appétit / 11

local / french finds

FINDING FRANCE IN PHILLY When I moved from Paris to Philadelphia at age ten, I found myself longing for many of my beloved French foods. I missed boulangeries most of all, the French bakeries stocked with crispy, warm baguettes, buttery croissants, and delicious desserts. As the years progressed, slowly but surely, authentic and reasonably priced staples of my French diet started showing up on the shelves of Philadelphia grocery stores. Whether you’ve recently visited France and are missing the taste of the Héxagone, or you want to get your taste buds accustomed to a French regimen before you study abroad, dive into these French favorites. by julie charbonnier photos by maggie edkins Baguette, Parc, $3 The best in Philadelphia, this baguette is exactly like those found in a French boulangerie: moist on the inside with a crisp, light crust. Plain Croissant, Williams’ Café, $2 The most buttery, crispy croissant in Philadelphia, these are just like the ones I enjoyed as a kid—and convenient to buy.

Jambon Royal, Whole Foods, $10/lb. Put this European-style cured ham on a baguette with butter to make yourself a traditional jambon-beurre sandwich. Moules Frites, Parc, $17 Though pricey, these mussels cooked in white wine sauce and served alongside French fries are divine. Dip the fries in mayonaise for an authentic twist. Cornichons, Trader’s Joe’s, $3 The traditional French pickles, corninchons are crisp, tart, and more acidic than the American variety. 12 / penn appétit / spring 2010

Crème Fraiche, Trader’s Joe’s, $4 A bit like sour cream, a bit like butter, crème fraiche is a staple in any French kitchen. Add it to pasta, soup, salad dressing, or wherever you use sour cream. French Loaf, Trader Joe’s, $4 This rustic loaf is similar to France’s popular bread, le pain de campagne. This large, round loaf is great for sandwiches, or served alongside soup.

Cheese, DiBruno Bros., prices vary Unfortunately, French cheese is pricey in the United States. The best selection is usually found at DiBruno Bros. Italian market location. French favorites include camembert, roquefort, brie, comté and gruyère. Café au Lait, La Colombe, $3 At La Colombe Coffee Shop, this French drink made of coffee and warm milk is served in the atmosphere of a Parisian cafe. Ask for a brioche, a sugary french loaf, to accompany your coffee.

Salami Sopresa, Trader Joe’s, $4 This salami is a good reproduction of traditional saucisson sec francais, though the typical French variety often contains pepper corns. Slice the salami thin, remove the outer layer, and enjoy on a baguette.

Crème Brûlée, Buddakan, $9 While Buddakan clearly isn’t a French restaurant, their crème brûlée served with fresh fruit is a great facsimile of the classic French favorite.

Demi-Sel Butter, Whole Foods, $5 This creamy butter is filled with tiny salt crystals, and is ideal for spreading on a fresh baguette. Lady Fingers, Trader Joe’s, $3 These cookies are imported from France and are perfect for desert with coffee or champagne. Or, use them to make a Charlotte, a classic, creamy molded dessert. Note: These cookies are a seasonal item found only during the holidays.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: red wine, grapes, cornichons, baguette, croissant, brie, café au lait.

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local

/ history

A number of years ago there was a famous resort near Philadelphia, on the Wissahickon, where a visitor was escorted by the native that he might enjoy the pleasures of catfish and waffles whose praises were sung as being rivals to the ambrosia and nectar of gods on Olympus.

Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture, 1914

CATFISH, WAFFLES, AND COFFEE: a historical Philadelphia icon by teagan schweitzer photos by maggie edkins, christiana hay and missy ma

nbeknownst to many Philadelphians today, during the 19th century this city was a renowned destination for tourists seeking out the best catfish, waffles, and coffee. That’s right—catfish, served atop waffles with a cup of coffee. How on Earth did Philadelphia become famous for such a strange culinary combination? Historical sources differ on what exactly catfish, waffles, and coffee entailed. Some claim that these were the only three ingredients in the meal. Others, however, note that “catfish, waffles, and coffee” was instead a colloquialism similar to the modern phrase “from soup to nuts,” which denotes a full course dinner from beginning to end. In these descriptions, the meal consisted of fried catfish served with a relish, followed by beefsteak, fried potatoes, stewed or broiled chicken, waffles, and a cup of coffee, all followed by an optional dessert. The catfish, waffles, and coffee were omnipresent, but not necessarily served atop and alongside one another. East Falls—a neighborhood in northwest Philadelphia and adjacent to what is today 14 / penn appétit / spring 2010

Fairmont Park—was the place to go to for this famous local dish in the mid-1800s. Although none of them survive today, many roadhouses and inns along the Schuylkill River served up this fare. The Schuylkill River and its tributary, the Wissahickon Creek, were once teaming with catfish. The word Wissahickon is actually a combination of two Lenape (a local Native American tribe) words: Wisamickan, meaning catfish creek, and Wisaucksickan, meaning yellow-colored stream. Catfish were so numerous in the Schuylkill and Wissahickon that they would literally, as Charles Keyser wrote in 1872, “blacken the narrow passages of the river,” and a single scoop of the a fishing net would pull up more fish than could be lifted into a boat by one person. In the first quarter of the 19th century, it was not unusual for a fisherman to net some 3,000 catfish in a single night. Catfish from the Wissahickon were said to be “dainty and toothsome, and when served with the equally famous waffles, brought visions of Paradise on Earth,” according to a historical source quoted in the Philadelphia

food history book, The Larder Invaded. The catfish were available only during a short season, lasting two to three weeks while the fish swam up the rivers to spawn. Thus, fishermen caught as many of the fish as possible and put them in artificial ponds until they were needed in the summer and fall. Beacause of this, the dish was a seasonal item, which certainly added to its desirability and appeal. Despite the once overwhelming popularity of catfish, waffles, and coffee, no restaurant in the city still offers this fare on their menu. It seems to have fallen into the pages of history. The only recent sighting of this type of preparation was at the Reading Terminal Market Festival of Forgotten Foods in November 2009, where the Down Home Diner prepared fried catfish to be served atop Belgian waffles. In this recreation, the fish was topped with a dollap of Thousand Island dressing. It was indeed an odd combination, but assuredly quite tasty. For now, we can only hope for a revival of this once renowned dish.

Though no one knows exactly what the dish entailed, one possible preparation of this historical Philadelphia favorite was catfish served atop waffles with a cup of coffee.

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elements / flavors

spice up your life Salt and pepper aren’t the only spices that can enhance the flavor of food. The world isn’t black and white—and your spice cabinet shouldn’t be either. by Laura Steel photo by lui hui mum melvin Lim EVER WONDER WHY you would use the spices at the salad bar, or in the shakers next to the sugar packets at the coffee shop? Well, countless studies have shown that herbs and spices have surprising health benefits, ranging from improved cognitive function to increased metabolism. In trying to make healthy decisions as you go through your day, try adding a sprinkle here and a pinch there. First stop of the day—Starbucks. You need your caffeine to function in that 9 a.m. class. Try spiking your joe with a few shakes of the cinnamon and nutmeg that sit inconspicuously next to the cream and sugar. Cinnamon has been shown to reduce blood-sugar levels, which will help mitigate the crash once your coffee wears off. The smell of cinnamon alone may improve both virtual-recognition and working memory, as well as increase visualmotor speed. Nutmeg has brain-stimulating properties too, as it contains a compound called myristicin, 16 / penn appétit / spring 2010

which is associated with memory retention and stress relief. Both nutmeg and cinnamon pack a huge antioxidant punch. So, instead of paying extra for two pumps of sugar-free vanilla syrup, spice up your coffee for free and take advantage of some of these health benefits. After morning classes you’re off to Subway for lunch, or whatever you call a meal at 4 p.m. Before choosing a creamy, fatty sauce for your sub, think about this—mustard has only five calories per serving, as opposed to the 110 calories and 12 grams of fat contained in just one tablespoon of mayonnaise. It also contains selenium and magnesium, and its seed has been studied as an effective cancer-fighting substance. Make sure to request a shake of oregano before your sandwich makes it to the register. Per gram, oregano exhibits 42 times more antioxidant activity than apples, 12 times more than oranges, and four times more than blueberries. It is a great source of iron, manganese, calcium, vitamins A and C, as well

as omega-3 fatty acids. Oregano also provides a trace of fiber to keep your digestive system happy. Shiny hair, radiant skin, and regularity, all from just a hint of color between your slices of bread. After a few hours at the library, it’s dinner time. You head to Hill for your customary slice of pizza. Ever noticed the red pepper flakes on the counter? Try them out next time. Red pepper contains capsaicin, a compound which increases metabolism and improves appetite control. It may also lower the risk of certain cancers and ease joint pain. But be audacious, and try another shade of pepper too. Black pepper improves digestion, while the peppercorn shell encourages the breakdown of fat cells. These spices are available at any grocery store, as well as in many eateries around campus. Soon enough, you may find yourself healthier and happier, enjoying increased sophistication and flavor by introducing these simple additions to your daily routine.

elements / maple syrup

Syrup at the source

The sap tapped from maple trees is roughly 2% sugar and 98% water, so it must be boiled for hours to produce a thick maple syrup.

Maple sugaring takes patienceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a bit of luck, a few bucks, some elbow grease, and a whole lot of patience. STORY AND PHOTOS BY CALDER SILCOX spring 2010 / penn appĂŠtit / 17

T Smoky Maple Sweet Potatoes serves four

INGREDIENTS 2 large sweet potatoes 2 Tbsp. butter, cut into small cubes, plus more for dish 1/4 cup maple syrup 1/4 tsp. chipotle powder (or 1/4 tsp. cayenne plus 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika, well mixed) 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper Sea salt to taste DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 400 ° F. Slice sweet potatoes in half the long way, then into inch-wide semicircles. Place potatoes in a buttered oven-proof dish. Pour maple syrup over the potatoes, and dot with pieces of the butter. Sprinkle with chipotle powder or cayenne-paprika mix, sea salt, and pepper. Bake until fork tender, about 50 minutes. Turn once during baking. Recipe courtesy of M. F. Silcox

he sap run that starts the syrup season happens each spring when temperatures hover above freezing during the day, and drop below at night. This disparity in conditions causes a pressure differential within the trees, forcing their watery sap to flow. Until Mother Nature turns up the heat—which usually doesn’t happen until early March in the Northeast where sugaring is most popular— syrup makers can do nothing but wait. Luckily for me, that early March date coincides with spring break. So while my classmates head south to Cancun or Miami, I go north to Becket, Massachusetts, a sleepy Berkshire town where the Maples grow thick, and the sap runs fast. But before the first drop is collected, the trees must be tapped. Tapping is the most active part of sugaring. With a little help from my botanist of a mother, I identify the Sugar Maples, or acer Saccharum on our land. Maples can be distinguished from the riff-raff by their bark, which is grey, with long, irregular furrows running vertically up the tree. Though there are hundreds in the forests around our house, a dozen or so nearby are enough for my production. With a power drill, I bore holes about three inches deep into the trees at a slight upward angle, which helps coax the sap out. Then the taps, or spiles as they are called, are hammered gently into the holes. Each spile costs about $2.50, and a hefty tree can support three taps without damage, healing easily once the taps are removed. Any more taps, however, is not a sustainable practice. In my first attempt at sugaring last March, my tapped acers—including three enormous, ancient Maples, measuring nearly three feet in diameter—dripped out ten gallons of sap in about 24 hours. Professional sugaring operations scale this production way up, connecting hundreds of taps with plastic tubing, and collecting the sap in massive tanks.

My robust ten gallons of sap, collected in recycled milk jugs, tin buckets, and Gatorade bottles, is a bit misleading. Depending on seasonal variables, the sap is roughly 2% sugar and 98% water, and tastes like water with just a hint of what’s to come. To get the thick amber stuff, most of that water has to be boiled off. Professional operations use evaporators the size of cars, but for my small-scale endeavor, a backyard wood fire worked just fine. Guides to sugaring clearly advise not to boil inside, as the evaporated sugar will condense and crystallize on any metal surface. So after waiting for drip after precious drip, I sat and watched water boil. Perched on a lawn chair on top of three feet of snow, I started a fire at 9 a.m. Then, I waited. It wasn’t until five at night that my sap had become syrup. The ten gallons of sap boiled down to a mere quart of syrup, a ratio of 40:1. Near the end of the boiling process, the syrup must be monitored carefully to keep it from overheating and scorching. I used a digital meat thermometer, and as the syrup reached 219º F, 7.1º above water’s boiling point, I quickly removed it from the fire, strained it through cheese cloth, and jarred it. As a city boy, the idea of a backwoods process like sugaring fascinated me, but expectations were low when my mother and I tried it for the first time. She was skeptical. I was hopeful. But sure enough, two days after the first taps went in, we had a finished product. Our Grade A, light amber was delicate, smoky, and ever-so sweet. Its flavor far surpassed the store-bought junk, most of which contains corn syrup and no maple at all. This spring, my mom and I were back in Becket, with more confidence and readiness for the diligence sugaring requires. Patience is a virtue, one that sugaring has helped me to master, and a sweet one when you taste that first drop of syrup, poured over a handful of fresh snow, as is the tradition.

Our Grade A light amber was delicate, smoky, and ever so sweet. 18 / penn appétit / spring 2010

Tin buckets collect drips of sweet sap from an ancient acer. A large maple like this one can support up to three spiles in one sugaring season.

spring 2010 / penn appĂŠtit / 19

A waiter at Ocean Harbor—one of Philly’s most popular dim sum spots—weaves through the bustling crowds to deliver steaming dishes to hungry patrons.

to touch

the heart It is difficult to order a traditional Chinese meal for just a few people; the amount of food is simply overwhelming. If two people were to venture out for dinner in Taipei, it would be uncouth to step into a traditional restaurant, filled with tables obviously designed for large parties. My dad, experienced in eating Chinese food, has always shied away from it when only the two of us were out. That is, except for DIM SUM. BY STELLA YING PHOTOS BY MICHAEL CHIEN AND CHRISTIANA HAY 20 / penn appétit / spring 2010

elements / cuisine

im sum (點心) means snack or dessert in Cantonese, and describes the delicacies served with a traditional Yum Cha (飲茶) tea-drinking experience. Dim sum consists of light dishes, ranging from buns and dumplings, to vegetables and pastries, commonly served from early morning to late afternoon. Originally part of the Cantonese food culture, dim sum is now highly symbolic of the Hong Kong and Guangdong culinary scenes. The dim sum culture originated during the time of the Silk Road. Teahouses along the trading route began serving tea and snacks for those who needed rest. Nowadays, it is a type of eating experience that caters to, quite frankly, anybody. From gourmets to families, and the elderly to college students, dim sum has something for everyone. Dim sum fills a special niche in the Chinese food culture; it allows parties of any size to enjoy dining out. Dishes are small, reasonably priced, and don’t require the large portions of rice that other Chinese meals do. For this reason, one or two dishes per person makes for a great snack, while ordering many for the table turns dim sum into a meal. Even for people who don’t have time to go out to eat, dim sum can be found in the freezer aisle of most supermarkets, ready to serve after just minutes in the microwave. The Chinese equivalent of tapas, dim sum is great for people who like to eat a variety of foods at each meal. While dim sum can be ordered from a menu, customers more often choose dishes spontaneously from the trolleys waiters push through the restaurant. The trolleys don’t wait for anyone though, so diners frequently need to flag down the waiters to snag their favorite foods. For the diner who wants a typical loud, happy, Chinese dining experience without the stress of the Chinese’s often excessive attention to etiquette when eating with large groups, dim sum is a perfect option. The hustle and bustle of a dim sum restaurant is an important and salient part of the experience. Though dim sum does translate to the Chinese phrase for snack or dessert, when translated word for word, dim signifies “touch,” and sum stands for “heart.” Together, dim sum means “to touch the heart.” And for a dining tradition that is so tasty, practical, and unconventional, no other name could be more fitting.

A SAMPLING OF TRADITIONAL DISHES (FROM TOP): SHAO MAI (燒賣) A thin, yellow, flour wrapper is steamed around small spheres of ground pork, prawns, and Chinese mushrooms. These dumplings are commonly served with a colorful dot on top, created with a dab of crab roe, a piece of carrot, or a pea.

HA GAOS (蝦餃) Each of these dumplings contains a bright orange shrimp. Surrounded by a cloudy white wrapper and steamed to the perfection, they are tender and mildly sweet.

PHOENIX TALONS (鳳爪) This poetic Chinese term describes dark red chicken feet which have been marinated in black bean sauce, then steamed, and fried. The marinating and steaming leaves

the talons moist and tender, while the frying gives them a delightful, crunchy texture.

RICE NOODLE ROLLS (腸粉) These steamed noodles are rolled around a filling that often includes beef, shrimp, barbecued pork, or vegetables, or a combination of several. Served half-immersed in sweetened soy sauce, they may be topped with crunchy sesame seeds.

BAMBOO LEAF RICE (糯米雞) Steamed glutinous sticky rice, wrapped in a vivid green bamboo leaf, surrounds meaty pieces of egg yolk, dried shrimp, and pork. The leaf can’t be eaten, but its scent permeates the edibles wrapped inside, giving the dish a light aroma that mingles with the other flavors. spring 2010 / penn appétit / 21

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local / bake-off 2010

Best in dough by ANDY TAN photo by CHRISTIANA HAY

et the baking begin! BakeOff 2010 was a highly anticipated annual Penn culinary event hosted by Annenberg graduate students Lee Shaker and Sarah Vaala. Lee and Sarah invite fellow Annenberg students and significant others to a pot-luck party with a twist—guests are encouraged to bring homemade baked goods to compete for various prizes. The inaugural Bake-Off was a small, intimate party in 2007, which was so well-received that Lee and Sarah decided to hold subsequent Bake-Offs for the larger Annenberg community. They also raised the stakes by creating a Best in Show award, accompanied by a coveted prize—the Bake-Off Rolling Pin. Since its inception, the Bake-Off has evolved to attract entries beyond traditional sweet treats, such as exotic savory baked goods and innovative alcohol-infused desserts. With each year, the quality of the entries improves. Several 2010 pieces would have looked right at home on tables next to creations from televised baking competitions. In the invitation for the January 23 Bake-Off, Lee and Sarah advised, “Competition will be fierce & here are a few lessons from prior Bake-Offs: 1) PR can only help your cause, 2) Late arriving desserts may be neglected do to prior gluttony, and 3) Creativity is essential.” So in the weeks leading up to the Bake-off, a frenzy of activity began. Imaginations ran wild, eggs were beaten, ovens were fired-up, recipes were

Best in Show Mini Mohito Cupcakes makes 30 cupcakes

INGREDIENTS cupcakes 1/2 cup buttermilk, at room temperature 1/2 Tbsp. dark rum 1/4 tsp. vanilla extract 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp. baking powder 1/4 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 cup butter, at room temperature 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature rum syrup 1/2 cup sugar 2 Tbsp. water 2 Tbsp. butter 2 Tbsp. dark rum 2 or 3 pieces of lime zest sprigs of fresh mint lime-and-rum frosting 1 8-oz. package cream cheese, at room temperature 3/4 cup butter (1-1/2 sticks), at room temperature 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 2 Tbsp. dark rum zest of 3 limes Sarah Jacknis won Best in Show for this recipe.

DIRECTIONS cupcakes Preheat the oven to 325 ° F. Line mini muffin pans with cupcake wrappers. Combine the buttermilk, rum and vanilla extract. Set aside. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Sift, then set aside. Beat the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy (4 to 5 minutes). Reduce the speed to low, and add the eggs one at a time. With the mixer still on low speed, alternate adding 1/3 of the dry ingredients and 1/2 of half of the buttermilk mixture. Beat well after each addition. Fill each cupcake tin halfway with batter. Bake mini cupcakes for 30 minutes, checking them for doneness with five minutes remaining. Meanwhile, prepare rum syrup (below). Remove the cupcakes from the oven and let cool for five minutes before poking holes in them with a skewer or toothpick. Immediately spoon the rum syrup over the warm cupcakes and let them soak it up. Once they’ve cooled, ice them with the lime and rum frosting. rum syrup In a small pot, combine the sugar, water and butter over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often. Once the butter has melted completely and the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat. Carefully add the rum. The mixture will bubble and spurt so take care not to burn yourself. Next add the lime zest and mint, and let the syrup infuse for five minutes before spooning over the cupcakes. lime-and-rum frosting Beat the cream cheese and butter at high speed for five minutes. Reduce the speed to low and add the confectioners’ sugar. Mix for a minute to incorporate the sugar and then increase the speed to high again, mixing until frosting is light and fluffy. Add the rum and the lime zest and mix at medium speed until well incorporated. The frosting should be used immediately so make it once your cupcakes have soaked up the syrup and are cool. Frost cupcakes and garnish with mint leaves and or lime peel.

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local / bake-off 2010

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taste-tested, and gossip about other contenders’ dishes ensued. Guests brought their creations to Lee’s Center City apartment, where some required last-minute tweaking, and others needed more fanciful final decorations, ranging from fresh rose petals to mushroom-shaped meringue cookies. Names of the entries were equally imaginative, such as the “Cookakie—the illicit love-child of a cookie, a cake, and a pie.” As the competition heated up, “Liz Lemons,” vodka-infused jello in lemon wedges, helped cool things down. After a suspenseful wait for the judges to tally the popular vote, this year’s honor roll was announced. The Best in Show award went to first-time Bake-Off contender, Sarah Jacknis.

Her entry “Mini Mojito Cupcakes” was an undeniable crowd-pleaser, winning her the Bake-Off Rolling Pin. Sarah’s winning cupcakes were infused with an aromatic rum syrup and decorated with lime frosting and mint leaves. The hints of rum, tangy lime, and rich buttermilk made this entry the perfect combination of flavors. Second place, bite-sized “S’more Cupcakes” also deserve special mention. Each of these luscious chocolate cupcakes was topped with creamy icing and a perfectly flambéed marshmallow. The Best Presentation award-winner was “Nora’s Canadian Shield”, an intricately decorated logcabin cake complete with miniature meringue mushrooms.

CRAVING MORE? Check out the Penn Appétit blog at www.pennappetit.com

24 / penn appétit / spring 2010

The title of best-named dessert went to “Snookie’s Boozy Muffin Tops,” chocolate bourbon cupcake tops which offered the unmistakable crunch of dark chocolate in each bite. The bizarre but innovative “Bacon Explosion,” a unique blend of sweet and savory flavors garnered the impromptu, “Best Use of Bacon” award. As the Bake-Off participants departed with full stomachs, one question was certainly on most minds, “What shall I bring for next year’s Bake-Off?” Judging from this year’s outstanding entries, it will definitely be a tough act to follow. Luckily, participants have the whole year to experiment with more whimsical recipe ideas.

local / PA Dutch

Pickled beet eggs are a Pennsylvania Dutch classic.

purple eggs & ham STORY AND PHOTO by Michelle Cryder PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH culture was so tightly woven into my south-central Pennsylvania hometown that its significance didn’t hit me until I moved to Philadelphia for college. I went through a minor culture shock when I found out that, no, pickled beet eggs are not standard American fare, and tacking the word “awhile” onto statements to propose simultaneous action is grammatically incorrect. Thus, my appreciation for the uniqueness of Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine is something relatively newfound. Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine has Germanic roots, including the use of meat products like pork offal, and a strong tradition of food preservation. My first experience with Pennsylvania Dutch fare was hog maw, or stuffed pig stomach. A mixture of sausage, potatoes, onions, and cabbage is roasted in a stomach, creating an intensely smoky comfort food. The flavor is similar to that of another Pennsylvania Dutch staple, and Philly favorite, scrapple. Scrapple—a fried mixture of cornmeal, pork scraps, and seasonings—makes for a convenient and savory breakfast. Another classic Pennsylvania Dutch meal is chicken corn soup with rivels, or dumplings. Made from scratch, this saffron-colored elixir is the definition of comfort. Whole chickens are simmered with vegetables and spices until the meat is falling off the bone, creating a rich broth. Fresh corn is added,

and spoonfuls of batter are dropped into the piping hot stock to form tiny, fluffy dumplings. The Pennsylvania Dutch are also known for making an incredible variety of pickled and preserved goods, ranging from pickled beets and spiced peaches, to apple butter and chow chow, a green tomato relish. These specialties allow surplus produce at its peak freshness to be preserved and served with meals throughout the cold winter months. Since moving Philly, I’ve found that Reading Terminal is the area’s epicenter of Pennsylvania Dutch food. Multiple merchants boast a variety of meats, pickles, and other goods. The Dutch Eating Place serves an excellent chicken corn soup, divine scrapple, and a traditional apple dumpling. (Wed. 8:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m., Thurs.-Sat. 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.) Kauffman’s Lancaster County Produce features a mountain of preserves made in season and well as farm fresh produce. (Wed.-Sat., 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.) L. Halteman Family sells a variety of fresh poultry, beef, and pork, as well as scrapple by the pound. (Wed.-Sat. 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.) Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine is a unique and tasty aspect of the Philadelphia food scene. Take a trip to Reading Terminal for a taste, or, try my grandmother’s recipe for pickled beet eggs. Either way, I’m sure you’ll be back for seconds.

Pickled Beet Eggs Though the idea of purple eggs may seem a little Dr. Seuss-esque, the brine lends the eggs a complex sweetness. INGREDIENTS Peeled, hard-boiled eggs Equal parts sugar, apple cider vinegar, and beet juice (from canned beets) DIRECTIONS Add sugar, beet juice, and vinegar to a pot, and simmer for 15 min. or until the sugar dissolves. Place eggs and some or all of the beets in a jar and fill with brine. Refrigerate for at least a day. Recipe courtesy of DeLois Fluke spring 2010 / penn appétit / 25

in the kitchen / marshmallows

marshmallow magic Homemade marshmallows are not only easy to make, but also much tastier than their pre-packaged counterparts. The process is time-consuming but well worth the effort. by Khánh-Anh Lê photos by Christiana Hay SUGARY WISPS dissolving in mugs of hot cocoa, lush between chocolate and graham crackers, buttery white silk enrobing puffed rice. Marshmallows. Like chocolate pudding or the nuclear yellow cheesedoodle, marshmallows are one of those mysterious food stuffs that I have always left to food companies to produce for me. The idea of making marshmallows from scratch was rather daunting since years of eating them had failed to make their ingredients clear to me. Yet the lure of the culinary respect earned from saying, “I make fresh marshmallow on the weekends,” outweighed my cooking fears. So, in an attempt to demystify the marshmallow, and to earn some respect in the kitchen, I tried my hand at marshmallowing. It’s surprisingly simple to make marshmallows, and you can find all of the ingredients at any grocery store. But having the proper equipment is crucial. While boiling the corn syrup-sugar mixture, I didn’t have a candy thermometer— the sort that you clip on to the side of a pot—so instead, I held a meat thermometer with tongs, 26 / penn appétit / spring 2010

which I promptly dropped into the pot. To avoid burning your un-oven-mitted hands on the steam and a sticky meat thermometer, a candy thermometer is a must. A standing or electric hand mixer is also necessary. My right forearm was aching after just two minutes of whisking the molten sugar and cold gelatin mixture. Fortunately, my friend had an electric hand mixer which we used through the rest of the process. Once I had successfully beaten the mixture to a thick, aerated, marshmallow fluff, I spread the goo on a sheet pan and let it cool. The next morning, I cut the slab into squares using a pair of safety scissors. My squares were denser than your usual JetPuffed variety; lightly sweet, and smooth, they melted evenly over the tongue. I ate five, which is a lot considering I usually can’t stand eating marshmallows plain. Later that evening, my friends and I served homemade Mexican hot chocolate with squares of marshmallow large enough to fit snugly inside each mug. Instead of dissolving into sugar and

Marshmallows

disappearing, my marshmallows melted slowly, forming a thick, gooey layer on top of the spiced chocolate. They also maintained most of their gelatinous integrity, which is the mark of a fresh, well-made marshmallow. These sugary clouds also make luscious s’mores, where their sweetness is balanced by the earthy bitterness of chocolate, and the subtle nuttiness of graham crackers. Rice krispies treats would be another good use for these creamy squares, where their sticky sweetness would enhance the mild, crispy rice. Given the homemade marshmallow’s culinary possibilities, as well as the effort involved in making them, it’s not hard to imagine why food blogger Molly Wizenberg once gave her readers the bold advice, “If a man makes you marshmallows from scratch, you should marry him.” Try out Wizenberg’s recipe for these marriageinducing marshmallows. While making them isn’t labor-intensive, it is time-consuming, so if you want to enjoy making the marshmallows, or cooking anything for that matter, make sure you leave yourself enough time.

INGREDIENTS Nonstick cooking spray 1 cup cold water, divided 3/4 oz. unflavored gelatin 2 cups sugar 2/3 cup light corn syrup 1/4 tsp. salt 2 tsp. vanilla extract 1/2 cup potato starch (though cornstarch works fine, too) 1/2 cup powdered sugar

Recipe courtesy of Molly Wizenberg and Bon Appétit

directionS Line a 13x9x2-in. metal baking pan with foil, and coat it lightly with nonstick spray. Pour 1/2 cup cold water into a bowl, and sprinkle with gelatin. Let stand until gelatin softens and absorbs the water, at least 15 minutes. Combine 2 cups sugar, corn syrup, salt, and remaining 1/2 cup cold water in a medium saucepan. Stir over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves, brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush. Attach the candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Increase heat and bring syrup to a boil. Boil, without stirring, until syrup reaches 240º F, or about eight minutes. Beating with a mixer—preferably fitted with a whisk attachment—running at low speed, slowly pour hot syrup into gelatin mixture in thin stream down the side of the bowl. Avoid pouring syrup onto whisk, though, as it may splash. Gradually increase mixer speed to high, and beat until mixture is very thick and stiff, about 15 minutes. Add vanilla and mix until blended, about 30 seconds longer. Scrape marshmallow mixture into prepared pan. Smooth top with a wet spatula. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until firm, about four hours. Stir together the potato starch and powdered sugar in small bowl. Sift a generous dusting of starch-sugar mixture onto your work surface, forming a rectangle slightly larger than 13x9 in. Turn marshmallow slab out onto starch-sugar mixture and peel off the foil. Sift more starch-sugar mixture over the marshmallow slab. Dip a large, sharp knife, cookie cutters, or scissors into water, and use to cut the slab into squares or other shapes. Toss marshmallows in remaining starch-sugar mixture to coat, and transfer to a rack, shaking off excess powder.

spring 2010 / penn appétit / 27

The restaurant’s architecture creates an ideal atmosphere for a casual date or outing with friends, but don’t expect to pack a party inside.

GARCES twists a classic by MEREDITH LANE photos by MICHAEL CHIEN

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people and places / village whiskey

left: The Village Burger, the featured fare at Village Whiskey, was Philadelphia Weekly’s Best Dish of 2009. The burger comes standard with lettuce, tomato, and house-made Thousand Island dressing, but more adventurous diners can doctor their beef with anything from a fried egg to horseradish crab salad. RIGHT: Boasting over 80 different whiskeys, the bar is an intelligent take on a traditional pub, and knowledgeable staff can point you to the perfect drink pairing for your meal.

hiladelphia’s own Village Whiskey is arguably Chef Jose Garces’ most unexpected experiment with cuisine. The intimate bar and restaurant offer an interesting twist on classic American cuisine, in distinct contrast to Graces’ usual play with Latin and Spanish flavors. A few Penn Appétiters made the trek to 20th and Sansom to try out the handiwork of America’s newest Iron Chef. We arrived around 6:00 p.m. on a Monday, and shockingly, the place was packed. This is apparently usual at the tiny location, so the servers were more than willing to bring us drinks and appetizers while we waited at a counter. The drink menu includes over 80 different whiskeys, numerous varieties of beer, and creative cocktails with names like Ginger Rogers and Satan’s Whiskers. While we stood, we started our meal with a small selection from the raw bar. The Cape May Salt oyster ($2.50) and Top Neck clam ($1.50) were expertly prepared, but lacked distinctive flavor. We chose our next course from the extensive offering of pickles. The baby carrots ($6) and local red and golden beets ($8) were a definite high point to the meal. Both were served from mason jars on rustic wood platters, and alongside toasted sourdough, salty black olive tapenade, and buttery whipped ricotta.

The acidic veggies, savory tapenade, and creamy ricotta melded beautifully. After finally snagging a few seats at the bar, we moved on to entrees. The Village Burger ($9) consisted of a juicy 8 oz. beef patty, Boston Bibb lettuce, tomato, house-made Thousand Island dressing, and a toasted sesame bun. This burger can be doctored up with anything from a fried egg ($1) to horseradish crab salad ($5), but we stuck with the classic. The farmraised beef was hearty and succulent, and was complimented by the house dressing. The Kentucky fried quail ($14), was a delightful twist on traditional fried chicken, and was the highlight of the main courses. The quail was moist and perfectly fried, without being greasy; it was served with a biscuit, gravy, and a scrumptious white corn and sweet potato succotash. But in contrast to the massive Village Burger, this meal was portioned for a much lighter eater. The dish we were anticipating most, the duck fat French fries ($5), were ultimately the least impressive. They lacked crispness and there was little added flavor from the duck fat. On the other hand, the Sly-Fox cheddar sauce ($2) that we ordered to go with the fries was superb; the hoppy beer and sharp cheddar were a smart combination. Last, we turned to desserts. We chose to

split a Mini apple-cranberry pie á la mode ($6) and strawberry shortcake ($6). The pie had a buttery, flakey crust, and the apple-cranberry mixture was tart and not overly sweet. The strawberry shortcake, however, was dry and lackluster. While there are some great dishes to be had at Village Whiskey, getting a table, or even a spot at the bar can prove nearly impossible. Its atmosphere suits a casual date, or a relaxing meal with a few friends, but note that there are no tables for parties of more than four. While Garces’ venture is a self-proclaimed classic American bar, the fare plays intelligently on traditional flavors. The unusual offerings such as the pickle menu and the many burger toppers are what differentiate it from other American restaurants in Philadelphia; they make a trip to Village Whiskey worth the time and money, but good luck getting in. Read Jose Garces’ insights into his restaurants and philosophies on food and life on the next page.

THE LOWDOWN Village Whiskey 118 South 20th Street (215) 665-1088 | www.villagewhiskey.com. PRICE RANGE: Appetizers $1.50-15, entrees $8-28. ATMOSPHERE: Casual. IN SHORT: A unique perspective on burgers and bar food, but don’t count on being seated immediately. spring 2010 / penn appétit / 29

people and places / jose garces Jose Garces stands in front of his Old City restaurant, Amada. The restaurant shares its name with his grandmother, Mamita Amada, who Garces credits for his early interest in cooking.

Born to Ecuadorian parents and raised in Chicago, JOSE GARCES began his culinary training in his grandmother’s kitchen. Garces is now the executive chef and owner of five of Philadelphia’s most acclaimed eateries, including Amada, Chifa, Distrito, Tinto, and Village Whiskey. Garces won the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef of the Mid-Atlantic” award in 2009, and is America’s newest Iron Chef. INTERVIEW BY CAROLINE MURRAY

PA: What is your first “food memory”? JG: Any time my grandmother—my Mamita Amada, for whom Amada is named—came to Chicago to visit us from Ecuador, she’d spend what seemed like her entire visit in the kitchen preparing old family recipes. I was very young when I joined her there for the first time, and it became a tradition—she, my mother and I preparing food for everyone in the family. PA: When and why did you decide to become a chef? JG: Those early memories of cooking stuck with me, and I often found myself thinking fondly of the sense of bonding and sharing that can come from preparing and sharing a great meal. I enrolled in the Culinary Arts program at Chicago’s Kendall College, and immediately fell in love with my coursework. My education there continues to serve me today; my senior project was a business plan for a Spanish tapas bar and restaurant that looked an awful lot like Amada. PA: How has growing up in Chicago influenced your culinary perspective? JG: Chicago is a great food city; from simple 30 / penn appétit / spring 2010

foods such as hot dogs and deep dish pizza, to cutting-edge culinary talents that now call the city home; it’s a terrific place to cut one’s teeth as a chef. Growing up there, I learned early about regional food specialties and that influenced my experience of how food can serve as a window into culture. PA: What inspired you to come to Philadelphia? JG: I came to Philadelphia to work at Alma de Cuba, and later El Vez. When I began thinking about opening my own restaurant, I found that I wanted to stay in Philly. The food scene here is exciting, and since opening Amada in 2005, I’ve built my life—and my family—here. PA: Can you tell us a little more about what to expect from the Garces Trading Company? JG: Garces Trading Company is a gourmet market and cafe, featuring both imported and domestic goods such as cheeses, charcuterie, olive oils, vinegars and other packaged treats, alongside house-cured meats, freshly baked breads and pastries, a flower shop, the PLCB’s first boutique wine store, a coffee shop and prepared meals to go. It is also a full-service restaurant with classic European cafe fare.

PA: Do you plan to open more restaurants in Philadelphia? Are you looking to open up restaurants in any other cities? JG: I’m looking into two more properties in Philadelphia, but then I’d like to kick back and relax a bit and enjoy my restaurants and my family. As for other cities, well, let’s go with “never say never”! PA: Besides your restaurants, where in Philadelphia do you like to eat, or would recommend to our readers? JG: My best recommendation to your readers is to just get out and eat! Philadelphia is small enough that it’s easy to explore, and there are so many delicious places lurking just around the corner that you won’t have to look far to find a new favorite restaurant (or bakery…or coffee shop…or cafe…). PA: What is one dish that you could never live without? JG: Lately, I’ve really been missing the deep dish pizza that is so revered in Chicago, so we’ll be serving it at Garces Trading Company. That should satisfy my craving— at least for now.

closing / poetry

A Dinner Affair by Sandra Rubinchik photo by christiana hay

Forks and knives live their lives, Settled together like husbands and wives. They hug the plates from left and right, Embracing the dish, squeezing it tight. And then someone brings the soup, And the knives meet a different group. The fork predicts her impending doom, For here has arrived the infamous spoon. Her body is curved in all the right places. The knife’s heart pulsates and races. The other woman! Scandal! Affair! It’s more than the fork can willingly bear. But she waits patiently, saying nothing at all, Hoping the infatuation will crumble and fall. And the fork is right, for the soup is now done, And the meal’s main course has proudly begun. The knife is hers again. She’s rid of that flirt. Little does she know that next up is dessert.

spring 2010 / penn appétit / 31 Advertisement

32 / penn appĂŠtit / spring 2010