Spring 2018: Seafood by penn appétit

spring 2018

d is oub su l e! e !

seafood

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u e m n Follow the Fishies Journey along with our intrepid explorer as she hazards the waters of unknown Fishtown.

The Ultimate Oyster Experience A flavor bomb from the ocean: 3 perspectives

Ceviches Who knew ceviche had so many different regional varieties?

From Sea to Food Meet the wholesaler who provides to every restaurant in the area, from humble origins to city-wide community outreach

What We Talk About When We Talk About Poke To escape to the bahamas, and learn about Hawaiian culture, here’s the perfect recipe!

Japanese Breakfast Be transported to the foodie paradise of Japan – and cook seafood for breakfast. It’s even better than bacon!

One fish, two fish, fat fish, lean fish In the mood for something fatty? Or something wild? Look no further...

From Skin to Fin Eyeballs! Cheeks! Entrails! Would you eat it?

How to Fish Your Way to Perfection Use a cake tester to make dinner. And not just for the dessert course!

A Brief Introduction to the Problem with Seafood Yes, seafood is a problematic food, but need we give it up? Not if we have anything to say about it!

Aqua Polyculture Might seaweed be the answer to ocean pollution?

The Red Tide Your carnivorous friend may think you’re crazy for eating fish after reading this, but we in the know still think it’s worth it!

Pescetarianism: A Saga From disrupting your culture, giving up meat, and discussions with a goldfish, discover the impacts of a fish-based diet.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Rachel Prokupek MANAGING EDITOR Xander Gottfried EDITORIAL STAFF Shae Chambers, Maria Murad, Lydia Kim, Jean Chapiro, Sophia Clark, Mer Fagliano, Marina Gialanella, Nina Selipsky, Grace Leahy, Aneri Kinariwalla,Rachel Propupek, Jennifer Higa CREATIVE DIRECTOR Leah Sprague DESIGN STAFF Valencia Fu, Michelle Terng, Selina Nie, Lizzy Machielse, Jane Lee, Jaime Chua, Carolyn Barr PHOTO DIRECTOR Noel Zheng PHOTO STAFF Justine de Jesus, Carolyn Barr, Alice Deng, Morgan Thweatt, Ethan Wu, Maria Murad, Leina Betzer DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Justine de Jesus BLOG TEAM Carolyn Barr, Catherine Kwon, Eliana Waxman, Josie Shapiro, Justine de Jesus, Kathy Wang, Marianne Xiong, Marina Gialanella, Michelle Lu, Molly Gross, Nicole Seah, Ria Chhabra CULINARY DIRECTOR Jennifer Higa CULINARY TEAM Allie Shapiro, Ben Weimer, Blaze Bernstein, Deniz Enfiyeci, Eva Killenberg, Jennifer Higa Juliana Sandford, Monhish Sabhani, Natalie Weil, Noel Zheng, Xander Gottfried TREASURER Chris Muracca BUSINESS MANAGER Kate Kassin BUSINESS STAFF Sophie Isaacs, Zach Essig, Kelly Sterman, Jason Wang PUBLICITY & OUTREACH CHAIR Rachel Zhou PUBLICITY & OUTREACH STAFF Jessica Li, Asha Wiltshire, Danielle Kwait, Connor Ling SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Nicole Seah SOCIAL MEDIA TEAM Shirly Liu, Victoria Wu WEBMASTER Edward Kim COOKING CLUB CHAIR Tammy Tan VIDEO EDITOR Carolina Salazar-Paranhos INTERNAL SOCIAL CHAIR Allie Shapiro SOCIAL IMPACT CHAIR Katie Simms SOCIAL IMPACT STAFF India Allen, Julia Gros, Asha Wiltshire, Molly O’Hern, Sabrina Palacios, Richa Mehra EVENTS CHAIR Lori Kim

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR An early experience with seafood in Philadelphia came on a trip to Samuel’s and Son Seafood in South Philly. About half an hour before closing, the small retail section of the massive wholesaler was completely devoid of fish. And the fish collars I had driven forty minutes for were not to be found. I should have taken stock of the situation and not taken the emptiness of the shelves so much to heart. But having just spent time in the Bay Area, with its abundance of local seafood at farmers markets and grocery stores and its pervasive fishiness along the piers, the emptiness of Samuel’s and So – the seafood seller in Philadelphia – depressed me, an ardent seafood lover. But what I hope this issue shows you,

as it did me, is just how creative, expansive, and accessible seafood is here in Philadelphia. From a return trip to Samuel’s and Son, an exploration of the diverse cultural preparations seafood takes in this city, and the ups and downs of eating the slimy, paradoxical oyster, I hope you’re inspired how to search out seafood in landlocked Philly (the rivers don’t count!). Along the way, keep in mind how precarious this ecosystem is, and consider pescetarianism, sustainability, and much, much more. Just as the sea is vulnerable to change, so are we here at Penn Appétit. Last semester brought about change, and tragedy this semester has reminded us to return to what we hold dear about the

magazine and food in the first place. In the face of all that, welcome to our first double issue! As we were reminded to take a second look at the role of food in our lives, we encourage you to do the same. What do you see when you see food? Has instagram evermore changed your dining out strategy? Which foods help you see better? Imagine a meal without the gift of sight...perhaps you would appreciate the senses left to you even more while trying not to forget which were left behind. That dual goal is what we hope to achieve with this issue. So, without further ado, let’s see some seafood! Xander Gottfried penn appétit

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spring ‘18 double issue

Follow the Fishies A Trip into Fishtown, Philadelphia ARTICLE BY GRACE LEAHY PHOTOS BY CAROLYN BARR penn appÃ©tit

penn appétit’s favorite fishtown spots Fishtown is full of a lot of great new restaurants, and is an easy MFL Septa ride away. Check out some of our favorites: Love & Honey Fried Chicken 1100 N Front St Hands-down the best fried chicken in Philadelphia. Must try: the OG fried chicken Stock Restaurant 308 E Girard Ave A hip southeast Asian BYO Must try: pho, papaya salad La Colombe 1335 Frankford Ave A beautiful, airy place to study or hang out Must try: latte, or buy a boule of bread for later Suraya 1528 Frankford Ave A Lebanese cafe, restaurant, and marketplace. Must try: rose and pistachio cruller Garage Fishtown 100 E Girard Ave Garage features over 400 beers, a rotating guest chef in their open kitchen, and arcade. Must try: Ask bartender for beer recommendations Wm. Mulherin’s Sons 1355 N Front St A rustic Italian restaurant Must try: speck egg brunch pizza Pizza Brain 2313 Frankford Ave The world’s first pizza museum Must try: Forbes Waggensense

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No one in their right mind would’ve chosen to take a walking tour of Northeastern Philadelphia in 30º F and rain. But I, a starry-eyed writer with high hopes and tight deadlines, decided to make the journey. Today, however, is too damn cold for me to be authentic. I call an Uber. My driver, Elizbari of Georgia-the-country, asks me three times if I’m sure this is where I’d like to get out. Through sheets of rain, I look out at Penn Treaty Park, the historic (and currently deserted) site where William Penn proved on paper his brotherly love of the Lenni Lenape. Elizbari looks concerned, but I tell him I’m all set. After wandering around solo in the

park – admiring some colossal cargo boats and trying to read a flag featuring something like the Redskins logo – I decide I’ve had enough and start my trek north. The first rule of Fishtown dawns on me very quickly: embrace the name. Once the epicenter of Philadelphia’s shad fishing industry, Fishtown remains a hub for middle-class workers, and thanks to the age-old combination of old buildings and low rent, the area now boasts hip restaurants, edgy boutiques, bubbly murals, and moderately-unaffordable home decor shops. Shout-out to the gentry on that one. With my hood-hindered vision, the initial fish tributes creep up on me. Af-

ter only a block, the first indicator – a full-wall, blue-and-green river mural– lets me know I’m headed in the right direction. From here, I follow fish-shaped address plaques, encounter a fish-head trash can, a door ornately painted with a massive koi fish, and a fence, also painted with smiling, cartoony (You guessed it!) fish. I almost smile back but don’t, distracted by the water seeping between my toes. After my fish tour, I stumble upon an alleyway. Hollywood has taught me to avoid alleyways, but this one has painted shutters and a moped, so I decide it’s navigable. It spits me out onto a more picturesque street, where I’m greeted by colorful, assorted brick walls more like

the ones I hadn’t realized I was expecting, likely a result of my casual perusing of VisitPhilly.com. (Because I am a thoroughbred planner, and a woman on my first solo city-ing expedition, I couldn’t help but do some preliminary research. I suppose I thought if I walked with a sense of purpose, I would be less likely to get jumped.) I drag my soggy self into the nearest cafe, which turns out to be La Colombe. It’s the exact same chain we have on campus, only here, everything is artsier – especially the lattés. At the table behind me are a few professional-looking twenty-somethings, one of them standing on a chair to photograph some coffee in mugs, in boxes, and in bags. Oth-

er cafe-goers work on laptops, catch up with friends. An older, disheveled man sitting directly across from me watches his coffee spill over the mug’s edges and onto his shaky hands. He wears as much as he drinks, but is content nonetheless. Though he doesn’t quite match the millennial demographic, I realize that people in Fishtown all seem to value a good coffee. I, however, order a chai latté, which, unbeknownst to me, comes cold and in a plastic cup. And though I can feel the mug-envy replacing the eye-stars, I decide that sometimes, even when voyaging to lands of mopeds and murals, travel is more memorable when things seem a bit fishy. penn appétit

The

ultimate

oyster experience experience

... well, 3 experiences

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BY MARINA GIALANELLA PHOTO BY ALICE DENG

East Coast oysters are renowned for being fishy. The second Oyster was Cape Maytasty and flavorful. In Philadelphia, one -very salty, lots of liquid inside, and an prime example is the infamous Oyster House, overpowering oceany aftertaste. The located at 1516 Sansom Street in Center City. last oyster I had was the Navy Point, the Oysters, as a food category, seem to be among biggest in size but not in flavour, and its the most provocative – many of us never texture soft and subtle despite that size. have a desire to try them, thinking that their My favorite oyster was the Little Shemutter sliminess would make them impossible ogue which reminds me that sometimes to enjoy. Others crave them day in and day the smallest things are packed with the out, fully appreciating their slurpability and biggest flavors. brininess. Three brave, seafaring writers set out to Philly Oyster House in search of oysters, all of us bringing our own personal psy- rachel’s chologies about the bivalve. What followed experience was a slimy, flavorful, yet pearl-less experience that, if nothing else, reminded us of the I have never liked oysters. They are briny, wonders of the ocean. slimy, and normally too big of a bite to handle. Maybe I just haven’t learned the art of the oyster? At Oyster House I tried 3 different oysters, from Canada, jean’s New Jersey, and Long Island Sound. Unexperience surprisingly to me, none were very enI love oysters. They make me feel as if joyable. The Cape May Salt (NJ) was, inI am taking a deep dive into the ocean deed, very salty and stayed in my mouth no matter where I might be sitting and longer than it needed to. The Navy Point eating them. At Oyster House I experi- (Long Island Sound) was enormous and enced three different oysters from three I hated the fact that I needed to chew different places: Canada, New Jersey, it. The Little Shemogue (Canada), I’ll and Long Island. Each oyster had its admit, was much milder, almost sweet. I own unique taste, texture, and size. The could not get past the texture of the oysfirst oyster was the Little Shemogue, ter, but, if I had to ever order one again, very little but packed with a burst of that would be the one. flavour. It was not overpowering or very

marina’s experience When I walked into the Oyster House, I wasn’t sure what to expect, having never had oysters before. It was dark, and all I could smell was fish and hear the sound of my neighbors slurping away on their oysters dipped in cocktail sauce. When I sat down, I asked our waitress to give us whatever she thought was good, because how was I to know the difference between a “Little Shemogue” and a “James River?” The four she gave us were Navy Point, Little Shemogue, Cape May, and James River. The Navy Point had a very salty aftertaste, and was by far the largest, requiring a plate all to itself. The Little Shemogue tasted fresher, but was still so slimy in my mouth. The Cape May smelled fishier than the others, and was chewier but a lot less salty. It did not just slurp right down my throat. And the James River was not salty at all and very tiny. I dipped the oysters in the mignonette shallot sauce, made with cracked pepper and red wine vinegar, along with cocktail sauce. All in all it did not go as terribly as I thought, but I’m still not sure I would order those slimy critters if I had the choice of getting shrimp instead.

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s e h c Cevi

BY JEAN CHAPIRO PHOTOS BY JEAN CHAPIRO AND ANGEL FAN

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Ceviches have become one of Latin America’s most popular and well known contributions to the global culinary scene. Many cultures around the world have developed their own interpretations of the dish, but ultimately all of them stem from the same principle: raw fish marinated in lemon juice. Despite the similarities between the variations, we can still appreciate key differences in each ceviche, derived from their culture. To explore some of the best ceviches in Philadelphia, we sat down with two renowned chefs, each with unique takes on what ceviche means to them and their culture. From a Peruvian perspective Beatriz Loyoza is a Peruvian chef born and raised in Cusco. She has been living in Philadelphia for the past 38 years, opening her famous Peruvian restaurant, Inka Wall, back in September of 2013. Customers seeking to enjoy the fresh ceviche at Inka Wall have to call two hours in advance to let the chef know they want to order it. That's how fresh it is, reflecting the time it takes to make each order so authentic. These two hours allow Chef Loyoza to marinate the fish in lemon and cook the sweet potato and chocolo for the garnish. Although many Peruvian ceviches use leche de tigre (a citrus based marinade traditionally used to cure seafood), Chef Loyoza decides to interpret the dish differently, substituting it with the lemon marinade. Unfortunately, she just doesn’t prepare enough ceviche to justify making and storing the finicky leche de tigre. When the ceviche hits the table, one can immediately appreciate not only the freshness of the ingredients, but also its quality. The acidity of the fish balances perfectly with the sharp onion and the sweetness of the yam and corn, while at the same time harmoniously contrasting with the spices in the marinade. The generous portion of the ceviche makes it a perfect dish to share with friends and family. What are the five key ingredients in Peruvian cuisine? “Pepper, cumin, aji amarillo (Peruvian yellow pepper), aji panca (Peruvian red pepper), and love – no matter how much garlic you put in your food, if you don't feel it with love, it won’t taste good.” What type of fish do you use? “Traditionally the fish used in Peruvian ceviche is corvina, but it is very hard to get in Philadelphia so I use tilapia, which is a very good substitute.” Is ceviche your favorite Peruvian dish?

“No. Ceviche is not a 100% Peruvian dish, it is said that it was developed by a Japanese immigrant on the coast of Lima. I prefer dishes that are from the Incan origins, like qui, quinoa, or potatoes. People think of ceviche as the staple of Peruvian cuisine, but actually quinoa is the basis of what people eat in Peru.” Peruvian Ceviche 12 oz tilapia fillet ½ cup lemon juice 1 garlic clove, grated 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, finely grated 1 ½ teaspoons cumin 1 tablespoon salt pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon Aji amarillo paste (substitute serrano or habanero peppers mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle) 1 ear of corn 1 medium sweet potato, peeled

½ white onion, thinly sliced 1 head red leaf lettuce Clean the fish and slice it into ½ inch thick cubes. To make the marinade, mix together the lemon juice, garlic, ginger, cumin, salt, pepper, and aji amarillo paste. Marinate the fish in the marinade for two hours. Boil the sweet potato and corn until tender, then slice the kernels off the cob and cut the sweet potato into ½ inch cubes. After two hours, add the raw onion to the fish and toss to combine. Lay individual leaves of lettuce on the plate, spoon the fish over it, and sprinkle generously with the sweet potato and corn.

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From a Mexican perspective Dave Conn is an American chef from Baltimore, Maryland, who started his culinary career in 1999 while he was still in high school. He has been working in the restaurant industry for several years, but opened his current restaurant, El Vez, in 2017. Although Conn is not a native Mexican, he has been exposed to the country’s culinary culture for several years by working under the guidance of

Chef Jose Garces. Since the beginning of his journey at El Vez, Conn has gotten to explore Mexican cuisine in depth, which has become one of his favorites. His Philadelphia-based Mexican restaurant is known for its modern interpretations of classical Mexican dishes, meant to cater to a widespread American clientele with a more American palate. As with their other dishes, their astonishing ceviche plate will leave customers in awe by its combination of classical Mexican ingredients with an American twist. The ceviche is as visually impressive as it is

tasty. Poached shrimp are served over a bed of crunchy lettuce, covered with campechana sauce (based on a charred tomato salsa), and garnished with avocado and fresh serrano chilis. What makes this dish so exquisite and unique is the delicate combination of texture and ingredients. But most of all, the secret to this ceviche is the char from the sauce. What are the five key ingredients in Mexican cuisine? “Masa, chile, avocado, tomato/tomatillo, and herbs (cilantro, epazote, oregano, perejil).” What type of fish do you use? “Mexican ceviche can be made with different types of seafood. Our ceviche is made with poached shrimp.” Is ceviche your favorite Mexican dish? “I like ceviches a lot, especially served cold on a hot day. My favorite Mexican dish is mole poblano because of its complexity and the many variations you can find of it.” Mexican Ceviche The star of Conn’s ceviche is a simple campechana sauce, made from charred ripe and unripe green tomatoes and red onion, then blended together with salt and olive oil and thinned with water. Conn then serves this with marinated shrimp, avocado, serrano chilies, and corn nuts. To make the campechana sauce, charr green and red tomatoes with skin on, put them in a blender with lemon salt pepper, garlic, little bit of olive oil and charred onion. To plate: put down thin lettuce, then shrimp, then sauce, then sliced avocado. Garnish with the sliced avocado, serrano chilies, and corn nuts and a drizzle of olive oil. Conclusion As we have seen through these different dishes, there is not one true recipe for ceviche. Loyoza and Conn demonstrate that ceviche really is a blank canvas with room for experimentation, interpretation, and adaptation, letting people create what the dish means for them. What is so amazing about ceviche, and why I think they are so popular, is that they have become a universal dish, giving people around the world a burst of excitement.

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FROM SEA TO FOOD THE WHOLESALER THAT MAKES IT ALL

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BY SOPHIA CLARK PHOTOS BY ETHAN WU You know you’re approaching Samuel’s and Son Seafood Company, the Philadelphia area’s premier wholesale seafood distributor, when you begin to see the “Samuel’s & Son Seafood Co” logo on delivery trucks. The words are accompanied by their graphic, with a blue background and a black fish outlined in white, clearly illustrating the wares of the Philadelphia-based company. Samuel’s history begins in the streets of Sicily, where Samuel “Sammy” D’Angelo’s great-grandfather, Gaetano Darigo, worked as a commercial fisherman. D’Angelo’s grandfather, Guiseppe Ippolito, married Darigo’s daughter and partnered with his father-in-law by starting a seafood business in Philadelphia. In 1945, Ippolito opened a fresh seafood market and called it “Ippolito’s,” where ten year-old Samuel D’Angelo worked, learning from his grandfather. The rest, you could say, is history. Samuel’s has come a long way from being a small seafood market in South Philadelphia, with 100 trucks leaving the South Philly warehouse every day, three satellite locations across the country, and thousands of species and varieties of fish sold and shipped out daily. I met with Joseph Lasprogata, Vice President and Head Marine Biologist, and when asked what the biggest difference between now and when Samuel’s first opened, he responds that it’s multi-faceted. “At the time, Philadelphia was experiencing a ‘restaurant renaissance.’ Chefs were coming from other parts of the country and they would want the fish they were used to working with there. So instead of local fish— scallops, flounders, swordfish— now we were bringing in red snapper, pompano, and developing our vendor base that way.” He recalls that back in 1989, Sam was doing the marketing and sales, but when Lasprogata came in, with his knowledge of airfreight logistics, they were able to expand to seafood from from the Philadelphia area to products from “all around the country, and all around the world.” After speaking with Joe, I was given

a tour of the facilities, all 50,000 square feet. Donning a felt-lined coat, non-slip booties, and a large pale blue overcoat, we entered the temperature controlled warehouse floor, constantly maintained at 35 degrees Fahrenheit. We moved from section to section, first stepping through the retail space where in the past chefs would come and hand-pick their fish. Now, Joe says “only a few of the old-school chefs do that,” the rest get the seafood delivered, precut in styrofoam plastic-wrapped containers. After the retail space, where fish are on display like you would see in a market, we move through the large double doors and are met with ceiling-high shelves packed with all sorts of seafood. As we walk, Joe opens boxes, some styrofoam, some cardboard, to show us the fish, explaining the different types and where they’re from. At one point, he pulls one out and points to the green tag on a Copper Shoals Texas Redfish’s head, “you see this? This is how we track how many of these are being caught,” he explains. Before the establishment of tagging, this fish was so over-fished that it was almost extinct. Now, the industry is able to keep track of exactly how many are being taken out of the seas and distributed, just one way that the industry has increased sustainability efforts in recent years. “Over the last 10 years [sustainability] has really come to the forefront of people’s attention,” Joe tells me. “We spend a tremendous amount of time on sustainability…we always check our vendors and producers to make sure that they are accessing the product in the right way.” Samuel’s and Son is also involved in multiple non-government organizations that help to ensure the sustainability and longevity of the seafood industry. “We work with the Marine Stewardship Council, Aquaculture Stewardship Council, Best Aquaculture Practices, and of course the big one is the Monterey Bay Aquarium, we’re a collaborator with their Seafood Watch program.” Samuel’s works with these programs and institutions to ensure

that the products they sell to their clients are fresh, ethically-sourced, and sustainable. An integral part of that sustainability is outreach and seafood education. Samuel’s has a robust website that includes product lists, recipes, media and events, and even a newsletter highlighting seasonal produce and upcoming events happening in the company. Why is this important? “Unlike other protein industries, chicken, beef, pork, they’re all dealing with the same animals. Seafood you’re going to see, just in the fresh category, 250 different species, all different parts of the world, different genus, species and families. You’re going from an oyster to a fish to a sea urchin.” He highlights that because of the differences in the industry, outreach is integral to the business. A big part of that outreach is educating the public about seafood. Samuel’s participates in events in the community from “a Pescatarian Thanksgiving” to Philadelphia Beer Week and their event “Chef’s Night Out” in October. A lot of these functions are about teaching the public about the multitude of ways that seafood can be prepared and served, as well as introducing possibly unfamiliar species into a person’s diet. Joe explained that they partner with programs like Careers Through Culinary Arts, a national organization that encourages high schoolers to consider careers in food. “We do a little program, just a cutting program, and we work with the instructors just to introduce these kids, who I guarantee you have never seen an oyster, let alone eat one. We show them how to fillet fish, how to clean a squid. Just to reach those couple kids who are going to take that next step and try to go to culinary school.” After the tour, I reluctantly returned my coat and overcoat, and threw away my booties. A few days later, walking down Walnut Street, I look up and see the familiar “Samuel’s and Son Seafood Co” logo and smile, feeling the distinct urge to cook some mussels when I get home. penn appétit

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What We Talk About When We Talk About Poke ARTICLE BY SHAE CHAMBERS PHOTOS BY ALICE DENG When I think about poke, I think about car rides home from the airport. I think about stepping off of a stuffy plane and shedding my black Patagonia puffer jacket to expose my tired, jetlagged body to the tropical warmth of familiar surroundings. The air is pleasantly humid, saturated with an indescribable fragrance, similar to that following a fresh rain. If the color green (think palm trees, ferns, vines, and grass) could have a smell, that’s how I would attempt to describe the aroma overwhelming my nostrils. I speed-walk through terminal B, weaving through aloha-shirt clad tourists and their bulky luggage like my life depends on it. All of these senses overwhelm me, and I struggle to soak it all in like a fish finally finding itself in water after being in air for too long. My eyes eagerly scan all the vehicles in my immediate vicinity, searching for the tell-tale glacier white of my family’s Nissan Leaf. Upon reaching the car, my mom jumps out from the front seat to envelop me in a hug while my dad smiles from behind the wheel. I slide into the back and eagerly await my mom to bestow upon me the one thing that has occupied my mind for the entire eleven-hour plane ride: a half-shoyu, half-spicy ahi poke bowl with furikake and brown rice. I hastily break apart a pair of wooden chopsticks and remove the clear plastic lid to reveal the delicacy of my homesick dreams. The ahi, expertly cubed, glistening with the perfect amount of sauce. The rice, warming my palms through the bowl as I cradle it in my hands. Simple and perfect. As I feast upon this magical ambrosia, my eyes wander to the scenery flying by my window. The cerulean of the calm ocean, the emerald of the expansive growth, and the powder blue of the cloudless sky are endless. I lift another heavenly bite to my lips, and my heart aches with happiness. To me, poke isn’t a sophisticated food trend. It isn’t over-done, overpriced, or overhyped. It isn’t found as a laughably tiny appetizer in a fancy downtown restaurant. And it certainly

isn’t watermelon. Poke is sand and water and eighty-degree weather. It’s a beach-towel picnic in Kapiolani Park with my brother after a grueling hike. It’s those coveted off-campus lunch breaks only granted to high school seniors. It’s forty-minute car rides from the airport, wind in my hair and warmth on my skin. To me, poke is home.

Spicy Ahi Poke Bowl 2 cups rice (brown or white) 1 lb. yellowfin tuna (sushi or sashimi grade) 1 tbsp. soy sauce 1/2 tbsp. sesame oil 2 finely chopped scallions 1/4 sliced onion 2 tbsp. mayonnaise 2 tbsp. Sriracha 3 tbsp. furikake (Japanese seasoning, typically made of dried seaweed and sesame seeds) 2 tsp. tobiko (if you’re feeling fancy) Cook 2 cups of rice in a rice cooker, or on the stove top (rice to water ratio 2:4) Cut tuna into 1x1 inch cubes Combine cubed tuna in a bowl with soy sauce, sesame oil, 1 chopped scallion, and tobiko. Place in the fridge to chill for about 30 minutes In a separate bowl, combine mayonnaise, Sriracha, and remaining scallions (but save about 1 tbsp scallions for topping later). Whisk briefly until combined Add mixture to the chilled tuna cubes, and mix until evenly coated (using your hands might be necessary) Fill a bowl with desired amount of rice. Sprinkle with furikake Serve poke over rice and top with remaining scallions Enjoy! penn appétit

Japanese Breakfast BY JENNIFER HIGA PHOTOS BY JUSTINE DE JESUS A full Japanese breakfast consists of miso soup1, natto2, condiments, white rice, and a fillet of grilled fish. Fish... for breakfast? That’s right, fish for breakfast. Traditional Japanese families all over the island start their mornings with a healthy dose of omega-3s--perhaps a clue to their longevity. In Japanese cuisine, or washoku, it’s really quite hard to escape the fish--it is the backbone of washoku lending umami3, texture, and richness to every component of breakfast. It is used for the stock in the miso soup and natto, made into condiments to top the rice, and served, grilled, as the star of the meal: smoky and absolutely delicious.

Fish in Dashi Dashi is an essential ingredient in almost all Japanese dishes, whether it’s used to braise meats or flavor tofu, to thicken water or thin out creams--it is the all-purpose seasoning, and rightly so. Dashi is a stock made by simmering katsuobushi4 with kombu5 in a pot of water until the water thoroughly extracts the taste of the dried bonito flakes and seaweed, mimicking the sweet and salty notes of the ocean. Sometimes dried shiitake6 is added to lend a bold earthiness for balance. In Japan, a chef is often praised for his or her ability to make a good homemade dashi. Clean in finish, yet complex in flavor, the paradoxical broth is the epitome of the island country’s food: simple and minimal in ingredients, yet exquisite in execution. Dashi in Miso Soup: The first component of the Japanese breakfast is the miso soup. It is not only the professional chef, but also the home cook, who uses his/ her personal stock to nourish hungry mouths. Dashi is the main ingredient 22

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of the humble miso soup. Whether it’s made with a strong “red” miso or a creamy “white” miso, or whether it contains tofu, onions, wakame seaweed, or clams, every Japanese child grows up with their own version. My mother would always make a red miso soup chock full of thinly sliced onions, cooked until they broke down becoming sweet and almost creamy in consistency. Then, sometimes she would throw in soft cubes of silken tofu that burst in the mouth like delicate poached eggs. It is still one of my favorite meals to eat when I’m sick or missing home. Dashi in natto: The second component of the Japanese breakfast is perhaps the most acquired taste for foreigners: fermented soybeans, or natto. Dashi is added to the natto along with some soy sauce to detract from the pungent smell of the sticky condiment. The texture is similar to that of okra; the slimy beans slip through my chopsticks as I shove it into my mouth. It’s a true enigma to me why I like natto, with its aroma similar to that of old feet, but I do. I crave this stuff. However, I must admit, without the dashi, the flavor falls flat, and all you are left with is the strange odor of fermentation.

Fish in Rice Condiment If the extract of fish in dashi wasn’t enough for you in the morning, you would get it in all the condiments you get alongside the bowl of steaming white rice. Some days you are served delicately boiled or dried shirasu and others you are served the classic Japanese topping, furikake, containing seaweed and dried fish flakes.

Fish, Simply Grilled The final component of the full Japanese breakfast is the fish. Yes, you

are served fish broth alongside fish, alongside a bigger piece of fish. Dan Barber, a renowned American chef and owner of the award-winning Blue Hill in New York, once said that he didn’t like fish skin. He has eaten – and liked – a variety of animal parts, but there was something about the acrid rind that he did not find pleasant. Why? It’s because the skin of the fish is the last barrier between the fish and its surroundings and like a sponge, it absorbs the pollution and stress of its environment. Yet, the skin of the fish, served even in the cheapest motels in Japan, tastes smoky and buttery at the same time, without a trace of bitterness. The fat renders on the charcoal grill and fries the skin to a crispy, delicate shell. It’s where the flavor of the fish resides and you do not doubt it is good fish. Fish for breakfast? Americans eat pancakes, eggs benedict, and sausage-- isn’t that more absurd than fish? Yes, Americans eat a dish that should really be dessert, another one smothered in a rich butter sauce meant for lunch, and pig in every form. Fish for breakfast… It’s not such a bad idea after all, now, is it. The Japanese have a good reason to wake up and break their fast with this delicious, healthful protein. Try it, and maybe once you start, you won’t be able to get enough. Perhaps that’s why the Japanese found a way to weave it into every single dish of their morning breakfast spread. With its briny umami, irresistibly buttery texture, balanced nutrition, and sweet, succulent flesh, fish invites a good beginning to the new day. Yeah, why not, I think I’ll have some fish for breakfast.

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My Mom’s Miso Soup For the Dashi: 1/2 ounce kombu (dried kelp) 3 cups of katsuobushi (bonito ﬂakes), lightly packed 3 dried shiitake mushrooms 8 cups water, preferably ﬁltered or spring water For the Miso Soup: 4 white onions 6 tablespoons akamiso (Japanese Red Miso) 14 ounces silken tofu, at room temperature Make the dashi: Put kombu, dried shiitakes, and katsuobushi in a large soup pot. Add the water to cover. Place over medium heat, allow the liquid to barely reach a boil, then reduce heat to low and let cook at a very slow simmer for about 30 minutes. Skim foam as necessary. Let cool to room temperature. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and add salt to taste (dashi may be prepared up to 2 days in advance). Put dashi in a large soup pot over mediumhigh heat and bring to a simmer. Scoop 6 tablespoons of miso into a ladle. Lower the ladle into the dashi, and with long chopsticks, stir a portion of the miso into the dashi. Continue doing this until all the miso paste on the ladle has dissolved into the rest of the pot. Adjust amount of miso to taste. Slice the white onions paper thin (it should be so thin that it is translucent). Add the sliced onions and cook until they becomes caramelized and stringy. This will take about 30 minutes or so. Then, cut the silken tofu into small cubes, and add at the very end. Pour into bowls and enjoy with the rest of your Japanese breakfast!

Miso Soup: Traditional Japanese soup that uses dashi stock and miso as a base. Miso is a fermented soybean paste made by adding koji bacteria grown on rice to cooked and mashed soybeans. Miso soup often contains tofu, seaweed, clams, and other ingredients depending on region. 2 Natto: Fermented soybeans that has a pungent odor and a sticky, slimy texture. It is made through a fermentation process by cooking soybeans and mixing it with the bacterium Bacilus subtilis also known as natto-kin. 3 Umami: The “fifth taste” that is evoked by monosodium glutamate; it is what gives fermented foods and fungus the depth of flavor. 4 Katsuobushi: Dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna (Katsuwonus pelamis). Also known as Bonito Flakes. 5 Kombu: Edible kelp. Shiitake: Edible mushroom native to East Asia. 1

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ONE FISH, TWO FISH FAT FISH, LEAN FISH BY SOPHIA CLARK ILLUSTRATION BY CLAIRE CHEN

King Salmon (11.3g) King, also known as Chinook, salmon is the fattiest type of salmon with 11.3 grams of fat for every three ounces. It is second to the Atlantic salmon in its high levels of omega-3 fatty acids. King salmon is a wild salmon, caught in Alaska, Washington, Oregon and a small section of Northern California. It is sold fresh or frozen.

fatty

Atlantic Salmon (10.5g) Atlantic Salmon is the only type of farmed salmon, farmed in Canada, Chile and Norway. Fishing wild Atlantic salmon is prohibited in the United States, as wild Atlantic salmon levels are extremely low. Atlantic salmon has the highest levels of omega-3 fatty acids of all types of salmon, with 1,800 milligrams per 3 ounces.

Catfish (6.0g) Farm-raised catfish is one of the most consumed fish in the United States. It is available commercially as a whole fish, in fillets, nuggets, strips or chunks. Catfish is a moderately fatty white fish. 26

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wild

Coho, Sockeye, Chum, Pink Salmon (3.5-5.7g)

*grams are per 3 ounces of fat

Coho, Sockeye, Chum, and Pink Salmon are wildly caught fish, mostly sourced out of Alaska. Out of these, Coho has the least grams of fat per three ounce serving, at 3.5 grams. Sockeye is the fattiest, at 5.7 grams of fat per three ounces. While these types of salmon are mainly caught in Alaska, Coho Salmon is the only type not canned. Sockeye Chum and Pink Salmon are all sold fresh or frozen in addition to being canned.

Cod (0.5g) Cod is a wild fish, with two variants being caught commerciallyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Atlantic Cod and Pacific Cod. Pacific Cod is more commonly sold in the United States at the moment, as Atlantic Cod populations are low, and fishing Atlantic Cod is strictly regulated. Cod is a low fat, flaky white fish.

Tuna (0.5g) Canned tuna is the second most consumed seafood product in the United States. There are five tuna variants; Albacore, Skipjack, Yellowfin, Bigeye, and Bluefin. Albacore, Skipjack and Yellowfin are used primarily in canned tuna. Bigeye and Bluefin are both almost exclusively used in sashimi and sushi dishes, and are sold as frozen steaks or loins.

lean

Tilapia (2.5g)

Tilapia is a low to moderately fatty fish. Not only is tilapia the oldest farm raised fish in the United States, it is also sustainable. Since tilapia are herbivorous and feed off algae, they are known to be able to improve the quality of water in ponds and lakes where excess algae is present.

farm

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ARTICLE BY MARINA GIALANELLA PHOTO BY ANGEL FAN

COLLARS Collars are full of fat, and are known to be mouth wateringly delicious. Tuna and salmon collars are particularly prized. If you dust them with salt, pepper, dried herbs, and rub them in olive oil and grill them, you’ll have an amazing crispy, fatty, and fishy alternative to traditional grilled ribs. You can also debone the collar except for the fin and the bone attached to it, coat it in a tempura batter, fry it, dip it in a Korean glaze, and serve it over a crispy noodle salad. A third option is to fry them and serve them with a sweet pepper aioli alongside beer.

SCALES Fish scales contain chitin, which is an organic material commonly found in cooking. If you clean the fish scales, soak them in vinegar, clean them again, boil them, and then strain them, you can use the now tasteless gelatin to make a flavored gelée to garnish crudo or make a gummy fish.

EYES Use the eyes to add an exquisite and unique taste to soups, like a cajun oyster stew, or sauté or pickle them along with the rest of the head!

HEAD Fish heads can be used in a lot of dishes, such as soups, and can also be roasted or grilled. An example is putting an onion or lemon in the mouth, covering it in butter and/or olive oil with some seasoning, and then grilling or roasting it till charred.

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CHEEKS You can use fish cheeks to make fish nuggets by frying them with an egg and flour breading, or sauté them in butter and a little pesto with some pasta. You can also use sous vide fish cheeks and serve them with an herbed sauce piquant.

If you have been up to date on food crazes, such as açaí bowls, kale, and avocado, or even if you have read this magazine, you would know that a new craze is fish. The reason fish are getting so popular so quickly? First off, they are a low-fat, high-quality protein, so basically you get the best of both worlds. Fish have calcium, phosphorus, omega-3 fatty acids, minerals such as iron and magnesium, and vitamins such as D and B2. There are so many different health benefits from fish that it is now recommended to eat fish at least twice a week. Fish are also famous for reducing risk of heart attack, keeping our brains healthy and functioning, bettering vision,

and lowering your risk of depression, ADHD, Alzheimer’s, dementia, diabetes, and blood pressure, just to name a few. It is also proven that fish make you not only sleep better but make you an all-around happier person, so why wouldn’t you want to have better naps in the rigorous college cycle and be less stressed and more relaxed? All in all, fish are just plain delicious, and you can use basically every single part of a fish to cook, such as making honey with squid ink and lemon juice, so you can make that college-budget grocery shopping last by making use of every part!

SKIN Collagen in fish skin adds elasticity and strength, so you can use it for taco shells and then fill that shell with the meat of the same fish the skin was from!

SKELETON A common food to cook using a fish skeleton is a broth or stock. Simmer it with parsnips, herbs, onions, carrots, and celery in a pot of water, and either eat it on its own or with some noodles or vegetables for a nutritious and warming soup.

BONES Fish bones have a large amount of calcium and phosphorus, as well as collagen, and can be used in broth or stew for added protein and nutrients.

ENTRAILS With entrails, you can either bread them and fry them with fillets, or pickle them.

FINS With fish fins, you can make crunchy potatolike chips and batter them in corn meal before frying them to make them extra crispy! You can also eat them just like chicken wings!

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How to Fish Your Way to Perfection 30

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BY LYDIA KIM PHOTOS BY LEINA BETZER Let’s face it – it’s the day that your family plans on coming over for dinner at your new place (was it your mother that insisted everyone come over so last minute? You’re too stressed to remember the details at this point), and all you’ve got ready are some wild cooking ambitions and no clue how to prepare the fish you brought home from the morning seafood market. For those familiar with preparing fish, undoubtedly there’s no difficulty involved in plopping a fillet into a frying pan, but what if you had the opportunity to up your fish game? To reach the perfect temperature? The perfect texture? There’s no harm in offering a few tips to up your fish-prep skills before your next big cooking rendezvous. Key point: Dry that fish! Dry your fish out for the best crisp. It’s a lot harder than it looks to flawlessly execute crispy-skinned fish. Donald Link, James Beard Award-winning chef and owner of Herbsaint in New Orleans, says that in order to avoid misfortunes (like the skin sticking to the bottom of the pan or overcooked flesh), the best thing to do is to dry out the fish. A parched skin gives the best result. So stick that fish (skin-side up!) uncovered into your fridge for an hour or so before cooking it. It seems counterintuitive, really. Normally you want fish moist enough so that it falls apart in your mouth, and keeping in the natural juices seems like it would only help the process. But ironically it’s recommended that you pat the fish dry with a paper towel to keep it from getting tough. Key point: Buy a fish spatula during your next grocery trip. Use a fish spatula to improve your flip. Don’t look at me, because I had no idea what this was either. It may, however, be the best invention after French toast due to its ingenuity. Multi-purpose in nature, the fish spatula has a sharp enough edge to allow for easy slipping under delicate fish flesh while offering enough support through a thicker-than-average handle for food that requires a little more heft and effort to flip. Did I mention that the sharpness of the product allows for easy removal of crusty leftover fish particles on the pan? Perfect for building a pan sauce. With its slight curvature, it’s almost too easy

to find the right angle to keep your fish from crumbling mid-flip. Say goodbye to broken fillets and wave hello to your ticket to home-cooked gourmet fish aesthetics.

Challah crusted salmon with a yogurt marinade

Key point: Careful storage is vital to future optimal taste, but if you have it why not eat it? Store it carefully for a fresh taste. A general rule of thumb is that it’s best to eat the fish the day it’s bought to guarantee the best product. Such a situation isn’t always realistic, however. In that case, take the fish out of the packaging and pat dry with a paper towel to get rid of excess moisture (see point one!). Wrap the fish in dry paper towels before sealing it away in a plastic bag. The ultimate secret? Make sure to keep it as cold as possible. If that requires you leave it in an ice bath on the third shelf next to your bag of carrots, so be it.

4 (4 oz) skinned salmon fillets, at least 1-inch thick 1 tablespoon mint, minced, plus more for serving 1 tablespoon dill, minced, plus more for serving 1 cup greek yogurt 1 tablespoon za’atar ½ teaspoon cinnamon kosher salt 4 slices of challah, cut ¼-inch thick 2 tablespoons butter 1 lemon

Key point: Unlikely tools may be your best bet. Use a cake tester to reach the perfect temperature. I hear it already, that inner question of why in the world a cake tester would be used for cooking fish. But this thin, metal pin is actually probably one of the most helpful tools in making sure your fillet is the perfect temperature. While I’m all for using them for their official use (how done your cake is, intuitively), cake testers are great in that they don’t destroy your delicate fish mid-temperature-check, and they’re easy to use! Professional kitchens stick the cake tester into the center of the fish for a few seconds before touching it to the bottom of the lip—one of the most sensitive parts of the body. Ideally the cake tester should be room temperature. If it’s too hot, the fish is most likely overcooked! Key point: Fresh is best. Don’t settle for old products. First and foremost, you want specialty stores, period. This means that your local supermarket chain isn’t going to make the cut. Seafood markets are your best bet in finding fish of the highest quality, and it’s even better if the market smells like the sea (even better if the place is clean). While you’ll probably get your hands on good fish anywhere in the country, the rule of thumb is that the closer to coasts the better—less time for your fish to go bad mid-transport! You might also want to try hitting up smaller fishermen. It’s much easier to get good quality, fresh fish from small farmers who really care about their product as opposed to a mass market grocery store.

Recipe by Xander Gottfried Serves 4

Mix together the yogurt, za’atar, cinnamon, and chopped herbs, and add a tablespoon of water just so it is slightly thinned. Mix the salmon fillets into the marinade, making sure to coat every surface, and chill for half an hour. Remove the salmon from the marinade and lay each fillet onto a piece of challah, then cut out its outline so the challah shadows the salmon’s shape like a new skin. Preheat the oven to its hottest temperature, preferably 500 degrees fahrenheit℉, and place a heavy cast iron pan into the oven to preheat as well. Just before cooking, salt both sides of the fish. When the pan is hot, remove from the oven and add the butter to the pan, swirling. When melted, add the salmon, bread-side down, and let sit out for about 2 minutes until the challah looks golden brown. Transfer back to the oven, still bread-side down, and cook for about five minutes until fully cooked. To know when the fish is ready, insert a cake tester into the thickest part of the fish and leave it there for a few seconds. Then touch it to your lip--it will be room temperature if the fish is fully cooked. Alternatively, squeeze together the fattest part of fillet--the fish should begin to flake as you squeeze. Serve challah-side up, with the lemon squeezed over and the remaining herbs sprinkled on top.

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A Brief Introduction to

the Problem with Seafood BY XANDER GOTTFRIED PHOTO BY NOEL ZHENG As fish lovers, pescetarians, and food connoisseurs, we should be concerned with the state of our seas. We often think of the open oceans as vast, untamable bodies of water on which our actions have little effect. Every year, we pull more and more fish out of the sea, much of it harmfully and with harmful effects on the ocean. Just think: Can you imagine a childhood without canned tuna sandwiches? Without sushi, lox, or fish and chips? All might be the case for future generations if we continue to do nothing about our little friends of the sea. First, consider the salmon, perhaps the most ubiquitous fish in America. Millions of salmon once hatched every year in the Northeast United States, swimming down the East Coast via interconnected rivers and streams to find food and mature. Every year, these salmon would swim back upstream, to their

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birthplaces, in order to mate and restart the cycle. Salmon represented a seemingly infinite source of food, and we treated them as such. As a society, we had little knowledge of our potentially catastrophic consequences on any wild population. Overfishing ensued. The industrial age then brought with it its dams, blocking those same rivers that salmon needed to swim back to their breeding grounds every year. Without access to these rivers, few salmon were able to make it back to a secure location to spawn. Salmon populations plummeted--almost none of the hundred million wild Atlantic salmon remain, and all the salmon from the Atlantic today is farmed. Wild salmon do still exist, particularly in Alaska and the Pacific (although those populations are shrinking as well). Perhaps farming salmon is, simply, the next step for our global society, much like farming chickens and cows was the next step for food on land. But fish farming, too, has enormous

ecological consequences. A farm must supply its animals with feed. The key problem is that many fish, particularly salmon, are meat eaters. As a result, most fish farms function on feed-product ratios of about 10 to 1 (meaning that for every pound of fish sold, 10 pounds of wild feed were caught). Methods to catch these fish are both incredibly inefficient and harmful, releasing exceedances of CO2 into the atmosphere. Much of what ends up in fish feed is bycatch. However, what we consider bycatch is the core set of species of many marine ecosystems. They both filter water and nutrients and provide sustenance for the bigger species around them. Not only, then, have we overfished the top feeders, the salmon, and begun growing them on farms, but we have begun to destroy ecosystems from the ground up, to maintain our unending appetites. Newer, sustainable methods of fish farming must be the key to the future of seafood consumption.

The tuna, whether canned and made into tuna salad or raw, crimson, and served as expensive sushi, is another example of human craving gone wrong. Tuna fishing is nearly always ecologically damaging. Many tuna boats employ the long-line method, where fishing lines extend far out into the ocean, catching everything in their wake. The problem with bluefin tuna is that it really is a massive, carnivorous creature, and not simply a fish. With this loss comes a cascade of events as we remove one of the top predators, and abundances of unwanted bycatch, from the ocean. Lust for this red-meat seafood has brought its population to the brink of extinction. There are solutions to our seafood problem. In terms of farming, we should think about domesticating the fish with the lowest feed-to-product ratios, regardless of how much we already eat those species. Other factors, such as how adaptable the fish is to living a farm life, and how resistant it is to disease, should

also influence our choices for domestication. Wild fishing can be sustainable, but precautions should be put in place. Sanctuaries in the seas should be maintained, with strict no-catch policies on certain areas. Such a method is perhaps the only way to preserve what remains of the bluefin tuna population. Only by a complete no-fish policy can we regain even a smidge of past populations. There is already some evidence of progress. Sustainable fishing is practiced throughout the world, often mimicking indigenous techniques that once maintained steady levels of wild fish for centuries. Compare that to modern day fishing methods, which decimated populations in 50 years. Indigenous practices include restricting fishing to certain times of the year, so as to allow for the wild stock to produce and mature during the non-fishing season. But most companies cannot afford to stop fishing for a certain period to allow the stock to replenish itself--capitalism has

no place for ecology. And the methods employed by large companies are the most economically viable while being the most environmentally harmful. Perhaps, then, we must turn to local farmers and reputable businesses who fish as indigenous fishermen once did. The world does not need to catch endless supplies of fish, much of it bycatch, only to have most of it thrown away. For a very brief and incomplete guide of what fish is generally unsustainable, consider avoiding Atlantic salmon, Bluefin tuna, swordfish, Atlantic cod, and Atlantic halibut. Some of the most sustainable options include Arctic char, bass, trout, and the filter-feeders clams, mussels, and oysters. Even better than blindly following an incomplete list that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even try to paint the entire picture, simply ask your fishmonger some questions: Is your seafood sustainable? Where is it from? How was it farmed or caught? Hopefully your fishmonger knows the answers.

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Aqua Polyculture Less total input (fish feed) is needed due to the cyclic, self-sustaining nature of polyculture. Essentially, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just recreating what happens in the wild, with a net equilibrium between what is eaten and produced.

Currents provide a natural flow to the ecosystem to facilitate nutrient flow. Current takes fish waste to the bivalves, the waste still left over is then carried to the seaweeds, and some of that is then taken up and recycled back to the original fish.

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BY XANDER GOTTFRIED ILLUSTRATION BY MADELEINE SCHIRBER Aqua polyculture is a relatively new method of fish farming designed to be more productive and more ecologically friendly. Instead of growing, say, salmon in a monoculture, where the farm consists of salmon and its feed, polyculture aims to mimic the

natural environment. Every trophic level is represented, from seaweeds, to bivalves, to small feed fish, to large carnivorous ones. Each species lives together in a more natural ecosystem, producing a much more valuable and environmentally fish farm.

Bivalves (such as mussels, clams, and scallops) filter waste out of the water from fish excrement, pollution, nitrogen, and carbon dioxide, naturally cleaning up the environment.

Filtering of waste decreases pollution and boosts water cleanliness in general. This effect is not only beneficial for the environment but reduces risk of disease among the fish, leading to a greater yield for market.

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red tide BY MER FAGLIANO PHOTO BY LEINA BETZER

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When I was in high school, I went to Chile for two weeks. The first week was in Viña del Mar, where tourists crowded every beach and restaurant. One day, my mother and I decided to have lunch in this lovely looking place whose specialty was seafood. After enjoying perfect shrimp empanadas, we went on our way, not knowing what was going to happen next. Evidently, that something wasn’t very good. I spent a full week in bed, not being able to eat or drink anything other than water and sport drinks. The red tide is a world-wide phenomenon in which phytoplanktons release harmful toxins into the water that can have dire consequences for large, fish-eating organisms. Phytoplanktons, often referred to as algae, are microscopic, unicellular, plant-like organisms that can form densities in the water, visible from the surface, when they go through the process of blooming. Not all algae blooms necessarily discolor the water, and those that do generally lack the characteristic crimson tint of the red tide. But in places like Florida and Maine, where the red tide occurs, the discoloration appears as a murky reddish-brown. Depending on the location, the blooms can be caused by different types of algae. In Florida, for example, annual blooms are caused by Karenia Brevis. In Maine, Alexandrium Fundyense is the culprit. Algae blooms can be harmless at best, and extremely dangerous at worst. How dangerous the bloom becomes depends on which chemicals the algae release into the water. If the algae do not release toxins, there are no major health consequences. In contrast, if the algae release specific dangerous toxins, many organisms can get poisoned. The type of toxins depends on the species of algae, as Karenia Brevis releases the neurotoxin brevetoxin while Alexandrium Fundyense produces saxitoxin. Usually the small marine life that feeds on the algae (krill, small fish, etc.) are unaffected. But due to bioaccumulation, larger animals who feed on those small algae-eating

species (read: larger fish and human lovers of seafood), receive the unwanted consequences of algae toxins because they simply eat so many of the smaller creatures that the concentration of toxins rises to alarming levels. Think about what happens to tuna: mercury builds up in low concentrations in their food, but as tuna eat, toxin can dangerously accumulate in the tuna itself. The same process applies to the red tide. Species like shrimp and clams eat the algae, with no effect on them whatsoever. But the toxins accumulate in their bodies in such concentrations that, when consumed by us, they can have horrible consequences. Humans can get several types of infections from the red tide, none of them pleasant. Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning, most common along American and Canadian coasts, can disrupt nerve functions and paralyze the animal ingesting the shellfish, caused by saxitoxin, neosaxitoxin, and gonyautoxin. In the most extreme cases, it can cause death by asphyxiation due to respiratory paralysis. Luckily, I only experienced Diarrhetic Shellfish Poisoning (even the name is disgusting), the result of okadaic acid consumption. The species that produce these toxins are common in Chile, New Zealand and Thailand. Despite not being lethal, DSP can be extremely annoying and painful. You can guess by the name the associated symptoms. Amnesic Shellfish Poisoning, commonly found along the eastern Canadian coast, has more neurological effects, a consequence of domoic acid. People experienced dizziness, disorientation, and memory loss. However, it is important to note that simply consuming these chemicals does not mean that someone will get sick. Other factors, such as the amount of algae and chemicals concentration, can also be influential. Algae blooms can have larger effects than health problems on human lives. In 2016, Chile went through the largest recorded case of harmful algae blooms in history around the Los Lagos region,

an area dependent on the fishing industry. The amount of phytoplankton in the water was such that a massive number of larger sea animals, who ingested the chemicals in large doses, were found dead on the shore. Because of the high death rates among shellfish and salmon, approximately 100,000 tons, the fishing industry in Los Lagos was paralyzed. This, in turn, skyrocketed the price for salmon, disrupting regular economic practices in the area. To compensate for the monetary losses, the government attempted to compensate the families dependent on fishing, which lead to strikes and riots. In 2014, Florida went through a similarly impactful and devastating bloom. While generally accustomed to the presence of such blooms, the first weeks killed more than 1000 fish, crab, and octopi due to high intake of the algae-produced toxins. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the phenomenon not only affected the fishing industry but tourism. This red tide halted restaurants and activity centers. Some scientist claimed that the algae were dangerous enough to cause breathing difficulties if people went close enough to the blooms without a mask. The government calculated that the 2014 bloom resulted in a loss of $82 million in tourism and seafood. At this point, it’s easy to get scared and take the dramatic decision of never eating seafood again. First of all, that is just not a smart thing to do. Don’t give up seafood! Aside from being healthy, providing you with protein and omega-3s, seafood is delicious. Who doesn’t love the taste of shrimp? I crave salmon almost every day, but the red tide does not occur every day of the year; it is a seasonal phenomenon that varies by region. Scientists are doing research on the exact causes of the blooms in the hopes of reducing its harmful effects on human and animal populations. In the meantime, wherever you are, be cautious and, before eating seafood, just make sure it is not the red tide season. Shellfish are worth the precaution.

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a saga

PESCETARIANISM:

BY MARIA MURAD PHOTOS BY MARIA MURAD AND JEAN CHAPIRO

needed to take a stand against the ethical dilemma of chicken being killed then re-molded into the Dino nugget creation I'd been consuming for seventeen years. There was a greater issue at stake than the perfect shape of the nuggets. I remember sitting as a young, naïve, wannabe environmentalist in AP Environmental Science in awe of the effect our diet has on the environment, more so than the effects of plastic or electricity consumption. This sparked a mission in me to give up greenhouse gas emitting sources of protein and trade them in for the life of a veggie nibbling herbivore. However, I couldn’t do it all in one step. My plan was to jump from carnivore to chickentarian to pescatarian and magically end up as a vegetarian. Cutting out beef was easy, but chicken was much harder. After forcing myself to watch hours of footage of chickens being tortured and murdered, I finally pitied the poor poultry. Next stop: pescetarianism. This stage of my diet transition involved driving an extra 20 minutes after school every day to pick up a box of sushi for dinner from the grocery store. The tang of teriyaki sauce drowning eel rice balls was enough to power me through the realization that in my search for sustainability, my likely cause of death would be mercury poisoning. My parents were very confused by their sushi-chomping daughter. Pakistani culture is focused on meat, meat, playing cricket, and more meat. Much to their surprise, I didn’t live the life of a Naked and Afraid contestant. I got plenty of nourishment from defrosted fish sticks and goldfish crackers. The rest of my family had an issue with my diet as well: once on a boat ride on the wondrous, murky waters of the Kentucky River, my cousin asked, “Why are you 38

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not eating meat? Allah put them on this Earth for us to eat. You’re disappointing Him.” I personally thought God would be happy I wasn’t murdering and devouring the beautiful creatures he put on this Earth, but I guess not. I realized something when I was a pescatarian: we have no home. I led the life of a vagabond. Vegans and vegetarians have their açai-bowl cafes, salad bars, and juice shops. And carnivores have access to everything else in the restaurant landscape. But there really is no cool hangout spot for pescatarians to gather around and talk about the latest fish-craze. I guess we are left to the wideopen sea (and maybe Red Lobster!). After three months of this diet, an incident happened that changed the way I looked at fish forever. I received my first pet in seventh grade. My purple spotted Betta fish, Sawyer, lived the life of a king in his makeshift, water-pitcher fish bowl. I remember the first time I was home alone with my new fish. I was terrified. The thought of another living creature in the house instilled fear in me for some reason. I knew Betta fish were notorious for killing other fish in the tank, but what if he got confused and jumped out of his bowl to attack me? What if he wanted more fish kibble and banged himself against his glass confinements to riot against his authoritarian figure, me? I couldn’t handle a fish revolution, so I freed Sawyer into a golf course pond, probably destroying its entire food chain. Understanding that fish are conscious creatures with feelings and emotions made the thought of eating them, along with their memories, unappetizing. After that, I realized that Finding Nemo was right, “fish are friends, not food.” I decided to drop the pescatarian lifestyle for good.

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