July2016

Club Night - 12th July Eastham Ferry Hotel Ferry Road Eastham CH62 0AU

Issue No 217

July 2016

W I R R A L A D VA N C E D M OTOR C Y C L I S T S Group Council 2016-2017 Web Site

IAM Group 5115 http://www.w-a-m.co.uk

Chairman

Tim Brown

chairman@w-a-m.co.uk

Vice Chairman

Ken Smith

vicechairman@w-a-m.co.uk

Honorary Treasurer

Tim Holme

treasurer@w-a-m.co.uk

Membership

Nina Jeffries

membership@w-a-m.co.uk

Associate Coordinator

Derek Jeffries

associatecoordinator@w-a-m.co.uk

Chief Observer

Mike Boston

chiefobserver@w-a-m.co.uk

Honorary Secretary

Rob Cooper 0151 648 4503

secretary@w-a-m.co.uk

Events Organiser

Dave Spotswood events@w-a-m.co.uk

Newsletter Editor & WebMeister

Peter Lovatt

newsletter@w-a-m.co.uk

Minute Secretary & Social Media

Steve Lord

socialmedia@w-a-m.co.uk

Group Shop

Martin Titley 0151 632 3570

groupshop@w-a-m.co.uk

Gift Aid Coordinator

Tim Holme

giftaid@w-a-m.co.uk

Ride Out Coordinator

Rob Tutchings

rideouts@w-a-m.co.uk

Other Council members Lindsay Boston Carl Mason Cliff Evans Graeme Thow

MAGAZINE TEAM:

CONTACT WAM

Editor: Peter Lovatt

Rob Cooper Coopers Upholstery The Old Bank Everton Valley Liverpool L5 0RH

Duplication: C3 Imaging, Liverpool Distribution: The Post Office!

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Welcome to the July edition of the WAM magazine.

This month we have the WAM barbecue at the Eastham Ferry. Usual time, and feel free to bring partners, Spouses, friends, or anyone else you can drag in off the street.

Here is Steve looking surprised at last years Barbecue!

This is another online version of the WAM magazine as I’m still not in a position (at the time of typing this up) to get the magazines duplicated at C3 in Liverpool, then print labels, sticker them onto almost 100 magaines, and them seal each one ready for posting, and of course stick the stamps on. Luckily for you lot, this situation won’t last forever, and I’m getting to the point were I can set up my computer and printers properly, and also have a chunk of time to do the background chores involved with the WAM magazine production.

So that is my bit for this month, apart for congratulations to the following on passing the Advanced Test recently:-

Alan Ireland OK so I’ll sign out - see you all around (hopefully!)

Pete

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WIRRAL ADVANCED MOTORCYCLISTS

Diary of Events www.w-a-m.co.uk *************************

July

12th Club Night - WAM Barbecue at the Eastham Ferry *************************

This is the link for the WAM Official Forum, set up for Members of Wirral Advanced Motorcyclists ONLY. It is a forum for Associates, Observers, and members of WAM to discuss Official Group Rides out, riding techniques, FLC matters, and similar topics. To join you MUST give your name and Postcode when you Subscribe.

Group name: WAMOfficialForum Group home page: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/WAMOfficialForum Subscribe: to subscribe to the group send a BLANK email to WAMOfficialForum-subscribe@yahoogroups.co.uk Unsubscribe: to UNsubscribe to the group send a BLANK email to WAMOfficialForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.co.uk Once your submission has been approved, you can then post emails.

WAM Dates FLC 2 is 4th June to 9th July FLC 3 is 4th September to 15th October Proposed official ride out dates - subject to confirmation Sunday 24th July, Sunday 28th August and Sunday 23rd October.

Bikesafe dates July 16th/17th, August 20th/21st, September 10th/11th, October 8th/9th

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Choosing a Cam for your engine (Which would be suitable for Observing and WAM ride outs) The question "What cam should I buy for my bike?" is the one we often hear.

Indeed it is, especially on the WAM forums.

While there are no hard and fast rules for picking a cam for a specific application, such as ‘pootle mode’, or ‘making progress mode’ some basic guidelines are worth considering first, before getting your spanners out stripping your engine to the last nut and bolt.

Keep in mind that camshafts are usually chosen for the basic purpose of producing more power from your engine. The three questions to answer before choosing a new cam are: 1. Primary application: Is the bike going to be used for normal street riding or is the goal to have an engine which is running at the maximum torque and horse power for WAM Observing and/or WAM ride outs?

2. Type of riding: Do you spend a lot of your time riding on highway trips or is it more important to have the most power you can get which is suitable for WAM Observing and/or WAM ride outs? In other words is your riding style conservative or worthy of ‘making progress’?

3. Engine/Bike combination: This question relates to displacement (engine cc), compression ratio, bike weight and what kind of cylinder head modifications have been done and whether a sidecar has been fitted or not. Have the intake and exhaust ports been changed to result in better flow efficiency? (for IAM insurance purposes = NO) Does the engine have higher than stock compression ratio to take advantage of a longer duration cam? (for IAM insurance purposes = NO) Is the bike lighter due to radical body modifications, and use of titanium alloys for brackets and fasteners? (for IAM insurance purposes = NO) To get the best cam for your bike all these factors have to be taken into account.

Almost every type of engine modification imaginable has been performed on bike 5

engines over the years by experts and by the bloke in the shed at the bottom of the garden. Some are quick and simple to perform, whilst others can be very complex.

But for IAM insurance purposes, no modifications are done at all. Ever.

Here is a short summary of modifications listed in the order of increasing cost and installation complexity.

Free flow air filters Free flow exhaust system Performance camshafts Higher output ignitions Remapping of the bikes ECU Modified fuel injectors or larger carburettors High compression pistons Big bore cylinders and pistons It is important to note that too much cam sometimes results in poor low RPM power. Indeed this is not good for ‘making progress’ on Observed rides or WAM ride outs. It would be frowned upon by those WAM Observers ‘in the know’.

Street bikes will often perform better with a mild cam than more radical cams.

While bigger cams may have a higher peak horsepower, more conservative cams may feel stronger to a street rider because the max torque occurs at lower RPM. Vital for ‘making progress’ on Observed rides and WAM ride outs, especially on overtakes, or filtering on the M62 in rush hour.

Changing cams is the easy way to more torque in the low to mid RPM range. A cam with a longer intake duration will reduce static compression pressure at low speed which in turn will tend to reduce low RPM torque. Not good, especially on those overtakes. But with a longer duration cam and a higher compression ratio, power at middle and high speeds will be increased which is what you wanted all along. This is the main benefit of a good performance camshaft and properly tuned engine. This sounds like what is required for ‘making progress’ on Observed rides and WAM ride outs.

For an engine with a cam properly matched to the displacement and compression ratio, the net result will be more power at middle and higher engine speeds. As has been mentioned several times before, this sounds like what is required for ‘making progress’ on Observed rides and WAM ride outs.

So the conclusion from all of this is not to touch your engine at all for IAM insurance purposes. And remove the sidecar.

Next time, we discuss the Tits Alternative theorem (Google it!)

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How to buy riding kit that fits What should I look for when buying gear?

When it comes to leather, it will eventually break in to become comfortable. It becomes so because it stretches or the material breaks down from continual wear.

So if a pair of gloves are loose in the first place then they can soon become uncomfortable.

In the case of helmets, a loose but comfortable fit in the first place can mean a very loose-fitting helmet very quickly as the sponge and foam construction quickly beds in. And a sloppy helmet is not a good thing in the event of an accident.

So, should I aim small?

If you buy a pair of gloves, boots or a helmet that’s far too tight in the first place in the hope it will bed in to suit your head/feet/hands then chances are it won’t, not ever. A too tight helmet will cause unbearable pain on ears and forehead in a short distance. Even too tight gloves will cause aggro by restricting the flow of blood.

This leads to pins and needles and loss of feeling. Which is fine for self-abuse, but not when you’re trying to brake in the wet.

What do I need to do?

If possible pay for gear by credit card; certain card suppliers give insurance for new goods and some kind of comeback against the seller if the gear is duff. A bit of product knowledge is also good – the majority of gear manufacturers/suppliers have websites giving size and colour details online. Try it on – the longer the better. Anything that rubs, or pinches any part of your anatomy in three minutes is sure going to hurt like hell after just ten minutes on a bike.

1. For gloves it’s best to decide what type you need. If commuting then it’s pointless buying expensive racing gloves: they aren’t warm, and they’re not waterproof. Man-made material such as Cordura with a waterproof lining (eg GoreTex) and armour (inner or outer) are ideal for summer and winter seasons. How7

ever, they are bulkier…

2. …than race gloves (right) and mask a lot of feel for what the bike is doing.

Race gloves are also a lot cooler than lined leather or all-Cordura constructed gloves. While the pose value of recognised race-branded gloves is also much greater, they are inherently safer as they are usually constructed of the finest leather, kangaroo or deer hide...

3. ...which is the most abrasion-resistant and comfortable material you can get.

Whichever gloves you go for there are certain details you should look for before buying: a wrist restraint strap and adjustable cuff flaps. Both prevent the gloves flying off a flailing hand, or getting dragged off between body and tarmac – skinless bone is sore.

4. New gloves should be tight(ish) to get on and off at first. But not so tight your fingers can’t bend. Excess material at the finger ends will only get in the way when grabbing for a lever. Carbon or plastic knuckle guards must cover the knuckles – if not they will hurt after a while. Cuffs should ideally go over the wrist joint by a good two inches.

5. Open-face helmets are for style victims and classic bike lovers only. They’re not much good for anything except smoking a fag to relieve the monotony of going 27mph on a 50cc scooter. An openface lid in rain is the closest thing to being shotblasted. As for hitting the deck nose first… It doesn’t bear thinking about.

6. Full-face lids offer protection and tons more credibility than an open-face helmet. You also get a draught-free visor that prevents anything sharp, blunt, small or big penetrating an eyeball. The most asked question raised by helmet buyers is: “Is it worth my while buying a megaexpensive helmet?” The answer is…

7. …as a rule they are worth it. Famous brands (eg Arai, Shoei) are famous because they have a reputation for quality. A decent anti-mist vent system is a 8

pleasure. Removable linings are a must, as they can be cleaned, as are vents to flow cooling air over the skull. A decent, sealing, uncomplicated visor system is worth a fortune in MCN’s book.

8. With the helmet on you should feel equal and comfortable pressure on every part of the head. With the chin strap done up tightly and your head perfectly rigid, see if you can move the helmet up and down and side-toside. If it moves by more than 5-10mm then it’s too big. If there’s an imprint on your forehead after taking it off then it’s too small.

9. The lower leg is arguably the most vulnerable point for injury. It has to deal with the weight of the bike, collision damage, the weather and the occasional flung stone. Choosing the right boot for the job is vital. Off-roaders need heavy duty boots (pictured above) to prevent the ankle from twisting on jutting rocks.

10. Touring boots ideally should be leather but can be man-made material. They should be bought with a view to being comfortable over a longer period of riding time, and for that reason have a breathable membrane to let sweat out but stop rain getting through. Ankle and shin protection is the absolute minimum.

11. Race boots are ideal for most riders as they offer high levels of protection (shin, ankle, toes), but aren’t built so solidly as to be uncomfortable.

This is because racers’ feet move more (constant gear shifting) and the rider needs to feel, like with his hands, what’s happening with the bike. They offer more sensitivity and aren’t too chunky.

12. Boot sizing is the same as other types of footwear but most now come with European size markings. But even in mainland Europe Mr Jose Average is still size 8, or 42 if you will. Velcro and zip are the ideal combination for keeping boots on your feet. An occasional polish will keep them in good nick for a longer period.

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Are you a safe filterer? Riding tips from IAM RoadSmart If you’re a motorcyclist, you’ll be aware of filtering through stationary or slowmoving traffic. But are you filtering safely? Here’s how you can make sure you are, with IAM RoadSmart’s head of driving and riding standards, Richard Gladman.

Any prolonged session of filtering is tiring and requires the utmost concentration.

On certain machines the riding position may cause discomfort at slow speeds. Be prepared to stay in line for a short time if you are affected.

Filtering should only be used when traffic is stationary or moving slowly (up to 20mph) and you shouldn’t be travelling any more than 10 to 15mph faster than the traffic if speed limits permit.

When filtering to the offside of stationary or slow-moving traffic be especially careful when approaching junctions, nearside or offside. Obey all keep left bollards and keep a door’s width between you and the traffic to allow you time to respond. Do not cross solid paint to filter. If the traffic moves off you commit an offence.

If filtering between lanes maintain a safe escape route and a speed that allows you to stop.

Use the mirrors of the cars to help you identify when they are likely to change lane, and remember you are likely to surprise some drivers. Remain courteous and stay safe.

If in doubt do not place your machine into a gap just because it will fit. Be aware of the needs of others - an HGV will possibly have to swing wide to turn and you may be in a blind spot.

Richard said: “We all want to make progress with our journey but don’t get too impatient or tailgate other road users.

“Be patient and filter through traffic with consideration for road users around you. If done correctly you’ll get to your destination faster while not affecting others abilities to do the same.”

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Travelling in wet weather—more tips from IAM Roadsmart With the ongoing forecast of rain expected for the tail end of June, here are some tips from IAM RoadSmart’s head of driving and riding standards, Richard Gladman, about how you can stay safe when travelling in wet weather.

Be sure to check your local weather forecast beforehand so you can plan your journey accordingly. If heavy downpours are expected, avoid starting your journey until it clears. And if you have no choice but to travel, use main roads where possible which are less likely to get flooded.

Don’t forget to check your windscreen wiper blades and lights are working properly. You’ll need to use your dipped headlights if visibility is significantly reduced so give them a check too.

On flooded roads, think before driving through deep water, don’t stop in standing water and drive through the highest section of the road slowly. If there is any doubt don’t enter it. Once you have managed to drive through check your brakes and dry them out as quickly as possible – a light touch of the brakes whilst still moving should do the trick.

Roads will be more slippery than usual in wet weather – be sure to give yourself more time to react when approaching a hazard. Increase your following gap to at least four seconds from the moving traffic in front.

Keep your eyes peeled on the road at all times as spray from other vehicles can suddenly reduce your visibility. Remember it affects others too, so anticipate their actions and be prepared.

Richard said: “If your tyres begin to lose traction, ease off the accelerator, avoid braking and allow the speed to naturally decrease until you have full control of your car again.

“Driving in wet weather can be challenging, and with delays and increased concentration needed it can be more tiring too. By allowing increased time to stop and extending your following distance you can remain safe.”

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DISCLAIMER:-

The articles published herein do not necessarily represent the views of the Institute of Advanced Motorists Ltd, or the Wirral Group of Advanced Motorcyclists. They are the opinions of individual contributors and are published with the view that free expression promotes discussion and interests. So you have been warned.

Interested in doing the Advanced Car Test? Wirral Advanced Motorists are the people to see. Go to www.wirraliam.co.uk