ASOS DESIGN 20x20x20 Brand Book
No matter who you are No matter who you are
No matter who you are
INCLUSIVE
INCLUSIVE A positive identifier of ASOS DESIGN I found worth mentioning was their ability to use their global platform to fuel social change. Just by looking at the models photographed to display the ASOS DESIGN apparel I can already tell that ASOS values diversity as there is a range of different identities represented on their website. Their inclusive nature is significant in terms of their sizing with their tall, ASOS Curve, maternity and petite ranges which enable consumers of all shapes and sizes to try on a variety of styles. ASOS’ inclusivity goes further than this too. They are a company who are vocal about promoting gender equality and with a limited amount of their designs they do push the boundaries of traditional gender norms in relation to dressing. In their corporate manifesto for ASOS DESIGN the company details the following: “no matter who you are, where you’re from and what you’re up to, our universal brand is here for you, serving up exclusive designs, the latest trends, and in all our fit ranges.” (asos.com, n.d.)
TRIBE TRIBE TRIBE TRIBE TRIBE
E B I TR
How did ASOS start a tribe of their own? ASOS stands for ‘as seen on screen’ and refers to the fact that most of ASOS’ clothing are replicas, remakes of expensive celebrity style. The ASOS consumer wants to buy into this inviting world of luxury at a lower price point. The ASOS tribe consists of these celebrity ‘wannabes’ who – by buying into the label – join a community of consumers who have made the ASOS DESIGN style their everyday uniform.
Gendered GENDERED GENDERED GENDERED GENDERED
GENDERED How can ASOS DESIGN be perceived as a gendered label? Although some of ASOS DESIGN’s products do challenge the norms of gender but it is important to note that most of their garments can be seen as quite traditional when it comes to their design. ASOS DESIGN’s efforts to cater for both women’s- and menswear equally are weak as on the ASOS website there is 25015 styles listen under womenswear and only 15057 styles under menswear which makes a difference of over ten thousand items between the two. Taking a look at both categories makes me realise that the womenswear section carries a lot more variety in terms of product rather than multiples of almost identical items found under the menswear tab. The womenswear of ASOS DESIGN could use some support relating to their product and branding but it does appear to be more adventurous with its design than the menswear section does. This is an issue which I have recognized not just on online fashion retailer websites but the high street in general. At this market level wearability is at the heart of the design and gender norms are reinforced in their traditional sense.
REPLICA REPLICA REPLICA REPLICA REPLICA REPLICA REPLICA REPLCIA
A C I L REP How does the word ‘replica’ identity ASOS DESIGN? As ASOS DESIGN has failed to establish a voice of their own they use other brands’ identities to satisfy their consumers. Replica refers to the remake of clothing from many luxury retailers whose designs have been copied and/or slightly modified for the website.
FAST FASHION What is the relevance of ASOS DESIGN’s position on the market in regard to younger generations? The way generation Z shops differ greatly from any of the previous ones. As messages about sustainability have made their way into mainstream culture consumers have an awareness / understanding of fast fashion’s negative impact on our environment. Younger generations of consumers, especially gen-Z aim to purchase clothing from less environmentally damaging sources such as second-hand stores and luxury stores and do not respond to throwaway fashion the same way older generations do.
ASK M K S A MASK M K S A M MASK K S A M MASK K S A M K MASK S A M K AS MASK M
K S A M How is ASOS DESIGN clothing a mask for its consumer? This point relates back to the ‘loss of identity’ described earlier. ASOS DESIGN apparel is the perfect mask to blend into mainstream culture and become one with the crows. The idea of blending in to stand out.
what’s the meaning when we all look the same??? what’s the meaning when we all look the same???
NOTHINGNESS NOTHINGNESS
what’s the meaning when we all look the same??? what’s the meaning when we all look the same???
‘NOTHINGNESS’ How does ‘nothingness’ relate to ASOS DESIGN? Due to the market level that ASOS DESIGN is positioned in there is not an extensive amount of time for the company to produce designs that are pushing the boundaries and showcase creativity. In the fast fashion business, the main focus is on making sure that the company is meeting sales targets, they are minimising risks of losing sales and are replicating trends as quick as possible. ‘Nothingness’ relates to the fact that ASOS DESIGN as a fast fashion retailer is all about turning over large amounts of profit in a short period of time by producing safe designs that the masses will love. Therefor ASOS DESIGN has not got anything new to offer and does not bring innovation to the industry, this to me is the reason ASOS DESIGN can be defined as ‘nothingness’.
OVERWHELMING
H W R E V O
G N I ELM
What makes the ASOS DESIGN shopping experience overwhelming for the consumer? Asos.com, the website which exclusively stocks the label ASOS DESIGN reminds me of an online version of a department store as the issues that can be identified with those trading facilities remind me of the issues there are to fix with the ASOS website. Looking at the ASOS website reminds me of a raffle sale as browsing on the platform leaves me feeling overwhelmed, unsettled and eventually disappointed as most of the time even after long minutes of extensively searching for something to fit my criteria I still cannot manage to find anything suitable for me. Although you are able to filter down the thousands and thousands of products by adding in bits of relevant information there are still too many styles and brands on the platform to choose from as the company continues to desperately try to diversify. This negative might not directly relate to ASOS DESIGN as a label but due to the fact that asos.com is the only place where their products can be purchased it is still relevant and worthy of mentioning.
rend t d n e end tr r t d n d tre n e r t trend d n e r DT D TREN
TREND Does ASOS DESIGN respond to trend successfully? As a fast-fashion brand ASOS DESIGN have mastered how to take a trend from the runway or a celebrity’s wardrobe and produce a similar item within a short period of time successfully. Although ASOS DESIGN is successful at turning these trends around and making these looks achievable for their audience, they definitely pick up on too many micro and macro trends which can make their overall image as a brand seem less cohesive than preferred. What ASOS DESIGN is missing is its ability to showcase their own perspective on fashion trends as imitating these styles completely is something that any other fast fashion brand is able to accomplish as well as ASOS DESIGN.
e u g a v e u g a v
E U G VA
How is ASOS DESIGN vague? ASOS DESIGN is vague in relation to its customer. ASOS DESIGN as a brand have failed to identify their target demographic successfully and instead try and cater for the masses using outbound marketing methods which might generate sales but does not encourage customer loyalty as no one is directly targeted therefor a personal service cannot be achieved.
I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFORE I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFORE I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFORE I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFORE I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFORE I THINK I”VE SEEN THIS BEFOR
GENERIC
GENERIC
C I R E GEN What aspect of ASOS DESIGN does ‘generic’ relate to? Generic relates to the designs of clothing of ASOS DESIGN. Most of the apparel sold under the label has a very wearable quality and is designed to fit in with most of the customer’s already existing wardrobe. This expands to the colours used, the fabrics that they have picked. Overall these pieces have not got much of an identity or a narrative of their own therefor they are convenient for many demographics and lifestyles.
REPLACEABLE AND INDIFFERENT REPLACEABLE AND INDIFFERENT
REPLACEABLE AND INDIFFERENT REPLACEABLE AND INDIFFERENT
”SAME OLD”
”SAME OLD”
”SAME OLD” How is the phrase ‘same old’ relevant to ASOS DESIGN? ASOS DESIGN is a brand known for replicating the trends of the luxury market and celebrity styles. A concept which is commonly used to turn over large amounts of money for very little efforts when it comes to the design process. Copying the looks of the catwalks and high-end designer pieces may not require much creativity or effort but is definitely a method that works and inspires consumers to purchase. ASOS is not the only business that relies on this methodology to stay afloat, this is a philosophy that is widely used by most fast fashion retailers. ‘Same old’ in this context relates to the indifferent quality of ASOS DESIGN in comparison to its competitors. If the label shut down today their existing customer base would be able to jump on a different band wagon and find the same garments at prettylittlething.com, Boohoo, or even Misguided with a fairly similar price tag. Juxtaposing this, if Rick Owens stopped designing and trading today its dedicated cult following would be heavily impacted by the event and would not be able to by the vision, the narrative that he contextualises within his designs.
LACK OF CREATIVITY
LACK OF CREATIVITY
MEANINGLESS MEANINGLESS
MEANINGLESS
N A E M
S S E I NGL
Which quality of ASOS DESIGN makes their product meaningless to the consumer? Low quality, lack of creativity, lack of exclusivity and an impersonable service.
LOST IDE LOST IDE LOST IDE LOST IDE
WEAR ME AND BLEND IN!!! WEAR ME AND BLEND IN!!!
LOST IDENTITY What does ‘lost identity’ refer to in relation to ASOS DESIGN? This particular fraise is one that is relevant to most fast fashion companies, not just the one being discussed here. I have decided to include this identifier in relation to ASOS DESIGN I as it represents one of the biggest issues with the clothing sold under the label. ASOS DESIGN has a very particular relationship with trend as -unlike retail business of higher market levels- ASOS DESIGN has not got a strong brand identity of their own therefor their apparel is never ‘trend through the eyes of ASOS DESIGN’ which would make their garments more relatable and personal, but instead it always is just trend elements replicated, reproduced. Season by season couturial fashion designers communicate a wide range of ideas on their catwalks and unfortunately ASOS DESIGN does not filter these down to their customer but instead recreate most of them, trying to please the crowd. ASOS DESIGN consumers are aware of current trends and a particular segment of them will happily buy into these products. As these items have not got an original DNA of their own they remind me of masks that the consumer can use to disguise themselves and blend in mainstream culture. The product of this is fashion that is no longer about self-expression but about blending in, resulting in a loss of identity. To visually represent this identifier, I have chosen to work with moving image, in particular GIFs as the repeated motion allowed me to represent the loss of identity in a quick and effective way. These still images are the first and last moments of the movement and meant to showcase the extensive amount of clothes drowning the person, resulting in them disappearing behind a constructed image.
NO NARRA TIVE NO NARRA TIVE
N O N
E V I T A R R A
What does ‘no narrative’ mean? I have chosen ‘no narrative’ as one of my brand descriptors as it reflects on the lack of creativity involved within the garments produced by the label. As ASOS’ ‘universal brand’ is not heavily design-led we are able recognize this quality which is probably the one that differentiates them the most from the luxury market level. Clothing that does not tell a story is more difficult for the consumer to identify with and makes it difficult for them to start building that emotional connection that then they can attach to the brand itself. These items have not got the sentimental value that designer pieces would possess due to the fact that they were mass produced, for purely functionality purposes.
lity i b a r a ity we l i b a r y wea t i l i b a wear y t i l i b eara w y t i l i Wearab
WEARABILITY
Why is wearabiliy a key aspect of ASOS DESIGN clothing? Functionality and wearability go hand in hand when it comes to the clothing produced by this particular label as their garments are designed to be practical and align with the day to day tasks their consumers have to accomplish.
N E K BRO Why is ASOS DESIGN (and ASOS in general) at a broken place? The word ‘broken’ does not only relate to ASOS itself but relates to the whole of the fast fashion industry due to the changes in the shopping style of upcoming generations. ASOS DESIGN is at a broken place as they have not managed to keep up with the recent changes in terms of where people shop and what labels they buy into. I intend to use my luxury collaborator as the ‘band aid’ for ASOS DESIGN for this project.
TRaCEABIlItY What is ASOS DESIGN’s traceability about? ASOS DESIGN’s traceability refers to the production process. As described my them, they are taking initiative to ‘map their commodities to better understand and influence how they are sourced’ (asosplc.com/corporate-responsibility, 2020). This has particular importance in regard to the use of raw materials. Traceability is also one of the main values of gen Z and millennial audiences who expect this quality of a business that they buy into. Aiming for a more circular fashion economy is pivotal part of ASOS’ corporate responsibility which they recognize by connecting their consumers through educating them on this sustainability message. Being able to trace back the country of origin or your purchased garment and the conditions in which they were made of are a rarity within the fast fashion market but ASOS DESIGN as a label and ASOS as a global corporation has managed to walk the walk when it comes to traceability.
t s i l p m i s c i t s
SIMPLISTIC How does ‘simplistic’ relate to ASOS DESIGN? The word simplistic refers to the designs of ASOS DESIGN as most of their apparel tends to have a more minimalistic look, easy to pair with most things in your wardrobe. It also refers to the fact that most of ASOS DESIGN products are simple in terms of their construction and are not design-led, regardless their name.
y a w a w o r h T y a w a w o r w h a w o r h
THROWAWAY How does the targeted Gen Z & millennial audience respond to the fact that ASOS DESIGN is throwaway fashion? As an ASOS DESIGN consumer I know that a substantial part of why I purchase from the company is the fact that they are budget-conscious when it comes to their products. As the quality of the materials used to construct ASOS DESIGN pieces are of slightly higher standards than some other fast fashion retailers such as boohoo.com or Primark it feels like I am getting better value for what I am spending. Although younger generations may have suspicions, a significant segment of shoppers still choose to irresponsibly sweep the issues caused by the fast fashion industry under the carpet simply because they believe that their tight budget means that sustainable fashion is out the window. This lack of education is what causes an estimated £140 million worth of clothing to go into landfill each year from the United Kingdom, as explained by Wrap UK. (wrap.org.uk, 2020) As for the rest of the ASOS community more knowledgeable and sustainability-driven shoppers can utilise services such as ASOS Marketplace and the ASOS ‘responsible edit’ as ASOS DESIGN as an independent label is not heavily involved with the topic yet.