BARKS from the Guild Summer 2014

BARKS from the Guild

Issue No. 8 / July 2014

AVIAN The Case for Predictability TRAINING Switching to Force-Free CANINE Managing Aggression

EQUINE Clicking and Treating BUSINESS Selling Is Helping FELINE Ready to Adopt?

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Puppies: Preventing Fear-Related Behaviors from the Get-Go An environmentally force-free online magazine from the Pet Professional Guild

BARKS

from the Guild

Published by the Pet Professional Guild 9122 Kenton Road, Wesley Chapel, FL 33545 Tel: 41 Dog-Train (413-648-7246) www.PetProfessionalGuild.com Editor-in-Chief Susan Nilson barkseditor@PetProfessionalGuild.com Contributing Editors Elizabeth Traxler, Kiki Yablon

The Guild Steering Committee Jan Casey, Diane Garrod, Caryn Liles, Debra Millikan, Susan Nilson, Anne Springer, Heidi Steinbeck, Angelica Steinker, Markus Strauss, Niki Tudge, Catherine Zehner

BARKS from the Guild Published quarterly, BARKS from the Guild presents a collection of valuable business and technical articles as well as reviews and news stories pertinent to our industry. BARKS is the official publication of the Pet Professional Guild (PPG) and is distributed free to all members.

Submissions BARKS encourages the submission of original written materials.

Please contact the Editor-in-Chief for contributor guidelines prior to sending manuscripts or see: www.PetProfessionalGuild.com/Forcefreeindustrypublication Please submit all contributions via our submission form at: www.PetProfessionalGuild.com/BFTGcontent Membership Manager Rebekah King Membership@PetProfessionalGuild.com

Letters to the Editor To comment on authors’ work, or to let us know what topics you would like to see more of, contact the Editor-in-Chief via email putting BARKS in the subject line of your email. BARKS reserves the right to edit for length, grammar and clarity.

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Advertising Please contact Niki Tudge at Admin@PetProfessionalGuild.com to obtain a copy of rates, ad specifications, format requirements and deadlines. Advertising information is also available at: www.PetProfessionalGuild.com/AdvertisinginBARKS PPG does not endorse or guarantee any products, services or vendors mentioned in BARKS, nor can it be responsible for problems with vendors or their products and services. PPG reserves the right to reject, at its discretion, any advertising.

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Fear, Force-Free and ‘Crossing Over’

ccording to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, behavior problems are the number one reason dogs are abandoned or relinquished to shelters and are the primary cause of death for dogs under three years of age. It’s a shocking statistic, especially when there is so much that could be done to avoid it.

As behavior consultants and trainers, we often come across fearful behavior in the companion animals we see.

Genetics aside, it is now widely accepted that dogs poorly socialized during the critical period may display fear-related behaviors later in life, including aggression, separation-related issues and timidity. Issues like this can be a death sentence, both in a home and in a shelter. Our cover story this month examines the importance of preventing these types of behaviors as well as ways of modifying them if already visible at a young age, as we continue to try to have an impact on that dreadful statistic.

Given the potential for an exceptionally strong fear response during the early and secondary fear periods, it goes without saying that force-free methods are the only humane option, and this applies to older dogs too. Our feature on training this month relays an honest account from one trainer who did indeed ‘cross over,’ lived to tell the tale, and now debunks all the old myths blow-by-blow.

Elsewhere, we present a host of intriguing features on all things canine, including obedience vs. speed on the agility circuit, working with hearing- and visually-impaired dogs, living with – and managing – a dog prone to aggressive behavior, keeping children safe around dogs, and how one training club crossed over to force-free methods and has not looked back since. We also question why some owners of the so-called bully breeds remain convinced that their dogs are ‘different’ and ‘need’ to be trained using force, when instead they should surely be the best ambassadors of all for their breeds.

For the feline, avian and equine professionals there is some compelling fare - and plenty of sound business advice too.

Finally, a big thank you to all our contributors. We are always happy to hear from you and consider every submission for publication, so please do get in touch. n Susan Nilso Editor-in-Chief

The Pet Professional Guild is a membership business league representing pet industry professionals who are committed to force-free training and pet care philosophies, practices and methods.

Pet Professional Guild members understand force-free to mean: No Shock, No Pain, No Choke, No Prong, No Fear, No Physical Force, No Physical Molding, and No Compulsion-Based Methods.

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YOU, SOCIAL MEDIA AND PPG

Catherine Zehner outlines an ethical guide for PPG members on social media

NEWS & EDUCATION

Latest developments and upcoming events at PPG

FEAR NOT, WEE ONE

Pat Miller on the prevention of fear-related behaviors in puppies

THE CROSSOVER CLIENT

Eileen Anderson details her journey to force-free training methods

LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS

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Barb Levenson on bridging the gap between obedience and speed in dog sports

SAFETY FIRST

Joan Orr and Teresa Lewin present a checklist to keep children safe

BUILDING BONDS THAT LAST

Jennifer Shyrock on preparing dogs for the various stages of a child’s development

TAMING THE BEAST

Diane Garrod talks management in dogs behaving aggressively

RISING TO THE CHALLENGE

Diane MacIntyre on the shift to force-free methods at an Australian dog training club

CREATING LANGUAGES

Morag Heirs on accommodating deaf/visually-impaired dogs in training classes

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS

“Bully” owners should be best ambassadors possible, says Louise Stapleton-Frappell

A MINIATURE PUPPET MASTER

Bob McMillan ponders the many theories surrounding dogs and their behavior

GETTING IT RIGHT FIRST TIME

Marilyn Krieger details the questions potential cat owners should be asking

A LESSON IN TOLERANCE

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A case study from Susan Nilson detailing a common feline behavior problem

A TIME AND A PLACE FOR PREDICTABILITY

Predictability has its place for birds with behavioral issues, says Lara Joseph

HORSE SENSE

Dr. Lisel O’Dwyer details giving treats to horses with the aid of the clicker

A WIN-WIN SITUATION

Niki Tudge talks conflict resolution skills to enhance client compliance

THINKING OF BUYING A PET BUSINESS?

Rick Ingram presents an overview of business valuation options

FETCH MORE DOLLARS: SELLING IS HELPING

The first step to self-improvement is self-motivation, says John D. Visconti

ONE STEP AT A TIME Book Review: ‘Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs’ by Malena DeMartini-

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Price is a road map for treating this common problem, says Anne Springer

PUZZLES FOR MENTAL STIMULATION

Product Review: Leslie Clifton talks interactive feeding toys

MEMBER PROFILE

Introducing Donna Savoie of Pack of Paws Dog Training

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

Niki Tudge highlights best practices

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CONTENTS

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MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

Expanding the Force-Free Zone

Dear PPG Members,

I hope you are all enjoying the summer months wherever you may be. This is the first year we have spent the summer at our new property in Wesley Chapel, FL. We moved in last December, having been lucky enough to find two adjacent properties - one that was perfect for our home and one that was ideal for housing all our canine ventures. We are now situated on 23 acres alongside Kings Lake, a private, tranquil setting teeming with Florida wildlife.

The property is home to our dog training business, The DogSmith, our educational arm, DogNostics Career College, and the HQ for Pet Professional Guild (PPG), affectionately and collectively referred to as “The Force-Free Zone”. We are now actively building a new facility to help facilitate force-free education and are hoping it will be the location for the first PPG convention in November 2015. We are delighted to host Emily Larlham here this September, which will inaugurate the facility. What a fabulous way to start and I promise to share lots of great photographs in our next issue of BARKS from the Guild.

As we move forward in our endeavor to help educate and bring about more humane training practices to our communities, I was reminded of a fabulous article that PPG Steering Committee member Debra Millikan wrote for BARKS from the Guild in the summer of 2012, titled Defining, Determining and Maintaining Best Practice within the Pet Professional Guild. It speaks of our interpretation of the humane hierarchy while taking into consideration PPG’s Guiding Principles and allowing for professional autonomy.

The following is quoted from the said article. I offer this up as a clarification of our core values and how they can be used by individuals to evaluate popular training protocols. On that note, I have been asked by a several members why we include Level 6 in the article, given that we are committed to force-free training methods. Primarily, this hierarchy was printed with author James O’Heare’s permission. When you cite or print somebody else’s work, you cannot then choose to delete or add components to suit your purposes, and we are thankful to O’Heare for giving us permission to use his existing 4

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model. Having said that, rumor has it that PPG is working towards developing its very own hierarchy which will mirror precisely the Guiding Principles we all hold so near and dear.

This is the hierarchy that Millikan refers to in her original piece:

Level 1: Antecedent Control Procedures Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control procedures. Manipulate function-altering stimulation to promote choice of desirable behaviors over problem behaviors, including emotional arousal. Address variables such as medical conditions, nutrition, mental/physical stimulation, stress-inducing environments, etc, such that problem behaviors are less likely to occur. Counter condition problem emotional responses with systematic desensitization in order to make consequences for motivated operants moot.

Manipulate discriminative stimuli by presenting ones that promote other behaviors and prevent presentation of ones that evoke the problem behavior.

Example: Fearful companion animal utilizing aggressive behaviors to escape the aversive stimulation is systematically desensitized to the problem stimuli, and escape/avoidance is no longer reinforcing. The aggressive behaviors become moot because the emotional response is changed. Exposure to the feared stimulus is minimized. Operant conditioning accompanies respondent conditioning procedures to promote empowerment and increase the animal’s repertoire of desirable behaviors. The companion animal becomes less fearful also when an exercise program, a nutritional support plan, and general empowerment training are instated and other stressful living conditions are reduced.

Level 2: Shaping and Response Prevention Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control and shaping with response prevention. Instate antecedent control procedures as in Level 1. Gradually replace the problem behavior with a replacement behavior through positively reinforcing approximations to it in the environment in which the problem behavior occurred. Ensure success by making the choice of the desirable behavior more likely over the problem behavior.

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

Example: A dog that utilizes aggressive behaviors when exposed to novel people has approximations of pro-social behaviors positively reinforced, in gradually increasing intensities of exposure to strangers (usually manipulating distance and orientation) so that the dog does not perform the aggressive behaviors. Aggressive behaviors are avoided, and the new behaviors are installed gradually by shaping and empowerment training.

Level 3: Differential Positive Reinforcement Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control and differential positive reinforcement. Instate Level 1 antecedent control procedures. Positive reinforcement of desirable replacement behavior (DRI, DRO, DRA or DRL) and extinction of problem behaviors.

Example: A dog that barks for social attention has bringing a toy targeted for positive reinforcement and barking targeted for extinction. A parrot that screams for social attention has lower-volume verbal behaviors targeted for positive reinforcement and screaming targeted for extinction.

Note: Extinction should never be used outside of a differential reinforcement procedure.

Level 4: Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control, positive reinforcement of desirable behaviors, and negative punishment of problem behaviors. Instate Level 1 antecedent control procedures. Positive reinforcement of desirable replacement behavior (DRI, DRO, DRA or DRL) and negative punishment of problem behaviors.

Example: A dog that barks excessively for social attention has sitting and a single bark targeted for positive reinforcement and barking more than once targeted for negative punishment, including perhaps a time-out protocol. A parrot that screams excessively for social attention has lower-volume verbal behaviors targeted for positive reinforcement and screaming targeted for negative punishment, including perhaps a time-out protocol, such as having people immediately leave the room.

Level 5: Graded Differential Negative Reinforcement Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control, graded negative reinforcement of desirable behaviors, and extinction of problem behaviors. Instate Level 1 antecedent control procedures. Present the problem stimulus at increasingly intense levels of exposure in order to keep the

exposure minimally aversive and make removal of the stimulus contingent on a desirable behavior. Problem behavior is targeted for extinction (although intensity of exposure is manipulated in order to minimize these trials).

Example: A dog that utilizes aggressive behaviors in order to escape novel people has pro-social behaviors in the presence of gradually increasing intensities of exposure to strangers reinforced with increased distance from them. The procedure is done gradually to keep it minimally aversive and prevent setting the occasion for aggressive behaviors. Where aggressive behavior accidentally occurs, extinction is used.

Level 6: Positive Reinforcement and Positive Punishment Strategy and explanation: Antecedent control, positive reinforcement of desirable behaviors, and positive punishment of problem behaviors. Instate Level 1 antecedent control procedures.

Note that positive punishment should never be instated without consideration of reinforcers involved and must meet all other criteria for effective punishment.

Example: A dog that barks excessively has delivery of a shock made contingent on barking behaviors. Alternative behaviors such as sitting quietly or fetching a toy are targeted for positive reinforcement, and the barking behaviors decrease in strength (while alternative behaviors increase in strength).

An important feature of Millikan’s article is how this humane hierarchy should be applied by PPG members who are also invested in the Guiding Principles. Millikan writes that, in accordance with our Guiding Principles, members of the Pet Professional Guild emphasize a force-free approach to pet training and pet care. We understand force-free to mean that no shock, no pain, no fear, no physical force, no physical molding, and no compulsion-based methods are employed. It is also our belief that experienced trainers must always implement their behavior modification programs with the least invasive and least aversive training protocols necessary to change the problematic behavior.

Education is one of PPG’s key goals. Members have access to resources and training tools to help them meet the needs of their clients in line with the guiding principles. As a governing body, PPG endeavors to support well-researched methods that are the least intrusive and

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MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT most effective. Future provisional-member mentoring programs will enable less experienced trainers to learn these training techniques and broaden their toolkits.

Professional Autonomy A professional must be allowed the autonomy to work within the guidelines of his or her professional code of practice. PPG members are encouraged to use their individual methods of choice in accordance with our principles and the guidelines offered.

Other Ethical Considerations O’Heare’s Least Intrusive Effective Behavior Intervention (LIEBI) model details a “best-practices model”, which includes a decision-making algorithm emphasizing how to implement the least intrusive but most effective intervention possible. In addition to the LIEBI model, PPG members might refer to the following core ethical principles from Jon Bailey and Mary Burch’s Ethics for Behavior Analysts (2005, Routledge, New York, USA). Though Bailey and Burch were writing about human learners, these principles are equally effective in determining the intrusiveness of our interactions with animals.

According dignity: “Many of the clients that we serve are not able to effectively represent themselves,” write Bailey and Burch. “They may be non-verbal or simply unable to get someone to listen to them. If their wishes are unknown and they are unable to make choices, they may become depressed and present behavior problems.”

It is clear how this statement can also be applied to animal training methods. Methods should allow choices that can be positively reinforced, thereby empowering the animal and enabling it to progress.

Treating others with empathy and compassion: “If … you respect the autonomy of clients, work to benefit them, and devise programs that accord them dignity, you will automatically be treating clients with care and compassion,” write Bailey and Burch. PPG members should actively factor this into their interactions with animals.

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Respecting Autonomy: “To respect one’s autonomy means to promote his or her independence or self-sufficiency,” state Bailey and Burch, adding that “prompting, shaping, chaining, fading and the use of conditioned reinforcers” aid self-empowerment but should be used ju-

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

diciously to ensure safety at all times. Again, although Ethics for Behavior Analysts relates to a human application of behavior analysis, the same principle can be applied to animal training.

Maintenance of Best Practice Without a prescribed method of determining best practice, an organization will flounder and/or diminish. With a willingness to adhere to the intervention model and ethical principles stated above, and regular oversight by our committed, well-versed governors, the PPG will help guide animal trainers in maintaining a standard of humane, effective best practice. Like the behavior of the animals we teach, this guidance will evolve with experience.”

To read the complete article, click here. As we move on towards the end of 2014 it is our goal to roll out a professional level membership. This membership will be a certification of competency and will include both mechanical testing and scientific knowledge. As you know, PPG membership levels currently only reference membership type and not professional competency. We will continue to offer educational opportunities to all our members and we believe our convention in 2015 will complement our mission and vision. To each and every one of you, thank you for your membership support.

Remember, we are here for you, to support your business growth, to support the evolution of our industry and to help provide our pet owning community with force-free and fun options for pet training and care.

Niki Tudge

President - Pet Professional Guild

Niki Tudge is the founder of the PPG, The DogSmith, a national dog training and petcare license, and DogNostics Career College. Her professional credentials include: CPDT-KA, NADOI – Certified, AABP- Professional Dog Trainer, AABP- Professional Dog Behavior Consultant, Diploma Animal Behavior Technology, and Diploma Canine Behavior Science & Technology.

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BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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PPG ETHICS

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You, Social Media and PPG

Catherine Zehner outlines best practices and ethics for PPG members as they navigate through the minefield that can be social media

hether you use it a little or a lot, social media can be a double-edged sword. Used effectively, it is a powerhouse learning base, marketing tool and even a recreational outlet. At its worst, it spreads false and damaging information and can turn into a time-consuming and emotionally-fraught pastime for un- © Can Stock Photo productive exchanges and arguments.

How you use it is your business and the PPG Ethics Committee members would prefer that it NOT become ours. In fact, the Ethics Committee would be happy to sit on our thumbs all year because there was nothing for us to review. Even though we only review issues brought to our attention through a formally-filed complaint (see Frequently-asked Questions about the Ethics Committee process), we are finding our workload alarmingly steady, mostly due to issues arising from the use of social media.

If we are truly force-free in our beliefs, it is possible to be so in our actions with humans as well as animals.

Disagreement and debate can be done collegially, professionally and agreeably; just because someone disagrees it does not make them an enemy. The PPG’s Guiding Principles are very clear on this. Whether you are a pet owner member or a professional member of PPG, these apply to you.

This also means that, as a PPG member, you are going to be held to a higher standard of conduct because, to become a PPG member, you have already demonstrated that you have a high caliber of experience, ethics and professionalism. Whether it is a fellow PPG member, a colleague, client or someone on the other side of the world who comes to the Ethics Committee with a complaint about a PPG member’s conduct, we will investigate it. The Ethics Committee’s sole mission is to protect PPG’s professional image and reputation through members’ adherence to the Guiding Principles.

So when you are posting on social media or engaging in a collegial debate, it is important to step back before hitting the ‘send’ button and take a good long look at 8

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

what you are about to post on the world’s biggest billboard, namely the internet.

Here are some very general guidelines: • Is your latest literary gem professional and based in fact?

Would you send a similar post/email to a boss or a client?

Would you use the same tone with a valued friend, family member or clergy person?

• When discussing industry practices, trends or issues, ARE you discussing practices and consequences rather than the individuals? Are you creating informed, professional and civil exchanges that enrich members and the industry of force-free pet professionals?

• Does your contribution show respect for the freedom and dignity of others?

If you are unsure, step away from the send button.

Sleep on it. Have a valued friend or mentor review it.

The bottom line is, if you disagree with someone, do it in a way that is professional, based on fact, and discuss the issue, idea or practice - not the other person with whom you are disagreeing.

You have been accepted into a professional organization and agreed to a code of conduct. Your continued membership requires that your conduct reflects positively on the organization. PPG represents professional, force-free trainers and, if we want others to view us as knowledgeable, ethical, professional and force-free, we must all set a high standard and adhere to it.

Free speech is a right. Membership of PPG is a privilege. Being truly force-free in our lives means a balance of the two, not a choice between them. n Catherine Zehner DogSmith CDT, CPDT-KA is the owner and operator of The DogSmith of Florida’s Emerald Coast, a pet care franchise serving Bay, Okaloosa and Walton counties in Florida. She is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and a Pet Partner. She also chairs the PPG Ethics Committee.

PPG NEWS PPG Announces First Convention

The PPG has announced its first ever convention to be held in Florida from Wednesday, 11 – Friday, 13 November, 2015. The Guild is currently putting together a convention committee and already has some excellent speakers lined up. More news as we get it…

PPG Links Up with Veterinary Journal

PPG is now affiliated with the Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research (Elsevier). The PPG logo is displayed on the journal’s home page as is the journal’s on the PPG website.

As an affiliate to the journal, members have access to discounted subscriptions. Electronic subscriptions are only $30 per year (an incredible 82 percent savings off the retail rate of $168 per year) or, if you would prefer a printed paper edition, then the annual subscription rate is just $45 per year. Instructions on how to register for this invaluable benefit are listed in the member area of the website.

Print subscriptions run from January - December each year but PPG members may subscribe at any time during the year and will receive back issues of any previously published issues.

Members Educating Members

Case Studies: PPG members have stated that they are interested in reading more case studies in BARKS from the Guild. To make this a little easier for anyone who would like to submit a case study, we have put together a couple of templates – one for canine cases and one for feline cases. The templates have been designed to assist in the writing up of case studies and are intended to be used as a guide to help formulate the content of the case study if needed. Once you have filled in the template, it will be sent automatically to the BARKS editorial team who will assist with copy editing if required. Find the link here. If you would rather not use the template, just write up the case study and send it in as a Word document.

Golden Nuggets: if you have something in your business or training toolbox that works like a charm and you would like to share with other members, email it to BARKS in a few short paragraphs for us to feature.

Member Brags: if you compete in any dog sport and have recently achieved any certifications or titles, email in details and photos and we will feature you on the Member Brags page.

Contact the BARKS editorial team here.

Branding and Awareness

New Member Discounts Available

PPG has teamed up with TAGTeach and members can now benefit from a 25 percent discount off TAGTeach webinars at the TAGTeach store. This is the perfect opportunity to improve your skills teaching at the human end of the leash and learn more about how behavior works Tawzer Dog is offering a 10 percent discount to PPG members who buy or rent DVDs from the vast range in its online store. New DVDs are being added all the time.

Don’t miss out!

Finally, if you need to print any collateral, PPG has a wholesale account under online print store GotPrint and discounts are now available to members. Email PPG if you need any help with artwork. Go to member benefits on the PPG website to obtain all the discount codes.

Calling on members to help bring about greater awareness of PPG and its mission. When you update your membership badge with the new PPG logo, add a link to PPG to your email signature and include the logo/membership badge on your website with a link to the PPG website. It all helps to promote our message and branding. Get your logos here.

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PPG NEWS Podcast Wrap-Up

In case you missed any of our weekly podcasts, here is a summary of all the main points: If you are a paying member of PPG, your membership listing will show in the Fetch a Professional zip code locator search only if you have completely filled in your address. The system works via GPS so it needs the entire address to be able to pinpoint the location. If you do not want your home address (or certain other details) to be published on the website, log in to the website and change your security settings so you can select exactly which features are visible on your membership listing.

You can also add in photos to personalize it more.

PPG is currently upgrading its marketing and educational handouts, making them more printer friendly and easy for members to add in their company information.

They will also be rebranded with the new PPG logo.

One of PPG’s key marketing goals for the next couple of years is to bring about a greater awareness of the Guild and its mission. This includes continuing to grow the membership, developing relationships with the veterinary community and promoting the force-free message to reach pet owners, who will in turn reach out to members and help them grow their businesses.

Spreading the Word

Please do follow us on Twitter (@PetGuild) and interact, reply and retweet us as we work to build our base of force-free followers. We post lots of interesting, educational current articles on behavioral issues as well as general interest articles with a behavioral focus and, of course, PPG news. If you come across something you think our members might find interesting, post it on our Facebook pages and remember to tweet us too so we can continue to educate and spread our message.

If you have any educational handouts you would like to share with members please email them to us. We can copy edit them if needed and will share them on our website, co-branded with your name and website links.

Blogging

We are also expanding our blog section and have had a lot of interest from members regarding submitting blogs, as well as a lot of positive feedback on those already posted. Blogs will retain your copyright, your 10

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name and business name. Email the BARKS Editor if you would like to contribute and check out our blog section here.

Certification, Local Chapters

Another goal for the second half of 2014 is to roll out a member certification program for force-free trainers and behavior consultants. To certify, members will undergo a combination of mechanical and academic testing and be required to meet other criteria before applying. Qualification will be rigorous to ensure PPG members remain set above and apart from other trainers.

Also, later this year, PPG plans to release a template for members to launch and manage their own local PPG chapters. The Guild has been talking with its legal team as to how to structure the chapters to make sure it can support them and protect the PPG trademark without it becoming too cost prohibitive for local members. Please contact us if you are interested in operating a local chapter.

From now on, PPG World Services will be used primarily as a media forum to advocate the force-free message. The goal is to release 10-minute podcast each week which would include a series of answers from an industry expert on a particular topic, as well as a member educational section. PPG will also promote its vendors in this format.

Webinars

PPG offers both free and paid webinars, including one free webinar a month. We are currently looking for new people to host webinars so, if you would like to get your message out, this is the ideal opportunity. Just go to the form on our website which will help you formulate your webinar title and objectives, decide on a time and date and then we will publicize it for you. We will also schedule as many practice sessions with you as you need so when the time comes for your webinar you will be confident and relaxed.

Finally, calls from a company called Local Splash are not authorized by PPG. PPG does not share members’ personal details with any third parties. If you receive any calls regarding search engine optimization, please let us know.

All PPG contact details can be found on Page 2.

PPG NEWS/EDUCATION Bellissima!

Carmel Catuara and Bella were the winners in the Funniest Costume category at The International Day of Celebration for Force-Free Training and Pet Care (ICFF) held earlier this year (see BARKS from the Guild, April 2014, page 9). The prize was a portrait of Bella, specially created by Australian artist Rose Handke of Deefer Dog Designs in Adelaide.

Rose creates pastel portraits on archival quality pastel board from pet owners’ photographs. Not surprisingly, Carmel is delighted with the result. For more information on Rose Handke and to see more pet portraits, see Deefer Dog Designs and Facebook.

Upcoming PPG Events Workshop Refining Your Training Skills with Emily Larlham (Tampa, FL) Saturday, 27 September, 2014 9 a.m. (EDT) - Sunday, 28 September, 2014 4 p.m.

Live Webinars Morality in Animals? A Primatologist's View with Dr. Darby Proctor Monday, 14 July, 2014 1 p.m. – 2.30 p.m. (EDT) Holistic Wellness for Pets (Part 1) with Penny Watkins-Zdrojewski Wednesday, 23 July, 2014 2 p.m. – 3 p.m. (EDT) Teaching Animals to Communicate Through Pictures with Victoria Fogel Monday, 28 July, 2014 8 p.m. – 9 p.m. (EDT) Anger Management: How To Identify and Manage Personal Anger with Niki Tudge Wednesday, 30 July, 2014 1 p.m. - 2.30 p.m. (EDT) Holistic Wellness for Pets (Part 2) with Penny Watkins-Zdrojewski Wednesday, 20 August, 2014 2 p.m. – 3 p.m. (EDT) Take Back Time: Improve Your Time Management Skills, Processes & Techniques (Part 1) with Niki Tudge Thursday, 21 August, 2014 12 p.m. - 1.30 p.m. (EDT) Take Back Time: Improve Your Time Management Skills, Processes & Techniques (Part 2) with Niki Tudge Thursday, 4 September, 2014 12 p.m. - 1.30 p.m. (EST) An Instructional Webinar on the CARE Protocol with Jennifer Titus Thursday, 18 September, 2014 1 p.m. – 2.30 p.m. (EDT) Learn How To Effectively Negotiate with Niki Tudge Sunday, 28 September, 2014 1 p.m. - 1.30 pm (EDT) Social Learning in Dogs: A Study of Learning by Observation and Its Efficacy in Training with Jan Casey Monday, 13 October, 2014 2 p.m. – 3 p.m. (EDT) All PPG webinars are recorded and can be found in the education area on the PPG website. We also invite our members to get involved and contribute their unique skills to our webinar program. Webinars can be submitted here.

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PPG EDUCATION Helping Dogs Thrive: Tellington TTouch® and Other Life-Enhancing Techniques with Lori Stevens A Two-Day Seminar in Tampa, FL 28 February - 1 March, 2015; 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. each day Working Spots and Auditor Spots Available

Join Lori Stevens, presented by The Pet Professional Guild (PPG) and sponsored by The DogSmith, for this fabulous two-day workshop in Tampa, Florida. The event is being hosted by The Canine Behavior Center, home to the PPG and The DogSmith.

The Canine Event Center is set on 23 acres of fullyfenced training areas against the backdrop of Kings Lake, a 500-acre inland water feature hosting some of Florida’s richest bird species, yet only minutes away from restaurants, malls and interstate facilities. The location is a paradise for both canines and humans.

Seminar Description

This workshop will introduce you to force-free, humane, and gentle techniques for improving the life of your dog. You will be introduced to TTouch® bodywork, movement and leash-handling techniques. You will learn how to recognize when your dog is stressed or fearful and what to do about it. You will also learn about how your own body posture and movement patterns can affect your dog’s behavior.

TTouch is a method of working with animals that was developed by animal expert Linda Tellington-Jones as a result of her experience as a Feldenkrais practitioner. As an experienced horsewoman she realized that some of the Feldenkrais rehabilitation exercises linking body and mind that were used with people could be used to help animals as well. She found that an animal's posture influences its behavior and that physical, mental and emotional balance are inextricably linked. TTouch is a holistic approach, which includes the following: • Bodywork which is gentle and non-invasive • Equipment and techniques which bring awareness and changes to animals • Movement or ground work which builds confidence and improves focus • Philosophy which is one of respect for animals The combination of TTouch movement exercises and bodywork improves concentration, coordination, behav12

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ior and athletic ability in many animals. TTouch is used widely around the world by trainers, pet owners and veterinarians.

Other topics in this workshop include: canine body language, observation skills, analyzing behavior, enrichment, fear and stress and hind-end targeting. We will also discuss the importance of building a trusting relationship and what that involves.

This workshop will provide you tools and techniques to help with the following issues: • Fear and stress • Inability to focus • Lack of confidence • Over-activity (unable to easily be calm) • Touch sensitivity • Lack of body awareness, especially hind-end awareness • Pulling on lead • Behavior issues You will learn how to do the following: • Utilize TTouch bodywork • Incorporate TTouch wrap • Recognize signs of stress • Build skills in a fearful dog • Re-think your relationship and how to build on what you currently have • Approach behavior challenges • Hind-end targeting • Apply movement exercises • Walk in balance with your dog • Assess harness fit CEUs: IAABC pending, CCPDT pending, KPA pending, NADOI certificate will be issued.

More information and online registration: Helping Dogs Thrive: Tellington TTouch® and Other Life-Enhancing Techniques with Lori Stevens Sponsored & Hosted by The DogSmith

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Helping Dogs Thrive: Seminar Details

The seminar price includes morning coffee, lunch and afternoon drinks.

There will be an onsite Bonfire ‘Get Together’ on Saturday evening. A small additional fee will be charged for refreshments if you choose to attend ($20). Reservations to be made closer to the date.

If you register for a working spot you may bring an additional dog and switch out the dog you are working with.

PPG members can make two payments for the workshop over four months but full payment must be made 60 days prior to 28 February, 2015. Please indicate this preference on your registration form.

All dogs attending must be dressed according to the PPG’s Guiding Principles, so no shock, choke or prong collars. Lori Stevens recommends all the dogs be in comfortable harnesses for the seminar.

No human- or dog-reactive dogs please.

No noisy dogs.

At registration there will be additional questions regarding any dogs that you plan to attend with.

Working spots are $300.

Auditor spots are $180.

RVs are welcome for $20 per night. There is no power or water hook up.

No refunds will be given.

Please bring with you a mat for your dog to rest on, a Kong or other mentally stimulating toy and lots of small yummy treats.

Lori Stevens CPDTKA, SAMP is a Senior Tellington TTouch® practitioner for dogs, cats and other animals. Lori uses force-free and gentle methods to improve the health, behavior and performance of animals.

She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed (CPDT-KA), a certified Small Animal (dogs and cats) Massage Practitioner (SAMP) with a specialty in rehabilitation and is certified in Canine Massage by the National Board of Certification for Animal Acupressure & Massage. Find out more about Lori here.

Refining Your Training Skills with Emily Larlham A Two-Day Workshop in Tampa, FL 27 - 28 September, 2014; 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. each day Working Spots and Auditor Spots Available

Workshop Description

How can we improve our training skills? Emily Larlham created the seminar Refining Your Training Skills as her answer to this very question, based on her own observations, research and insights from her experience training dogs.

The definition of ‘refine’ is to remove unwanted elements or to purify. We will dissect our training by pulling apart all the pieces and assessing each piece’s function separately. Emily will cover the importance of proactive training as well as provide solutions to training plans gone awry.

This seminar will focus on how we can open our awareness and consciousness to our own actions and those of our dogs. We will investigate how drastic changes can occur from just the simple choice of marker, reinforcer, reinforcement delivery, reinforcement placement and what we do in between training. The majority of the seminar is based not on what to train, but how to train. However, Emily will use workshop exercises like teaching a ‘keep going’ signal and precision heelwork to demonstrate these concepts.

More information and online registration: Refining Your Training Skills with Emily Larlham BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Fear Not, Wee One

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Puppies need to learn early on that calm responses are the most appropriate

Pat Miller discusses the prevention and modification of fear-related behaviors in puppies and the importance of early learning

he goal of puppy socialization is to convince the amygdala, that part of the puppy’s brain that reacts emotionally to his world that, in general, the best/most appropriate emotional responses are calm, relaxed and happy. These days, the importance of puppy socialization is well-known and widely accepted. So it is interesting that many behavior professionals, myself included, report seeing an increasing number of canine clients with fear-related behaviors.

There may be several reasons for the apparent increase in fear-related behaviors in dogs including: 1. Less ‘natural socialization’ as responsible owners keep their puppies safely at home rather than allowing them to roam the neighborhood.

2. The availability of more behavior professionals who are willing and able to work with dogs who have fear-related behaviors, and the awareness of more dog owners that behaviors can be modified.

3. A lack of understanding among dog owners who recognize that socialization is important but don’t realize that the key to good socialization is positive exposures to the world. A pup who has negative experiences 14

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during the primary socialization period (3 - 14 weeks) is very likely to grow up fearful unless prompt remedial action is taken.

4. A lack of awareness of the existence of secondary fear periods which, according to various information sources, can occur for a dog anywhere between the age of four -11 months and perhaps as late as two years of age. A fear-causing event at any time during this period when a dog is more sensitive to aversive stimuli can also have far-reaching implications for fearful behavior.

5. The emergence of puppy mills over the last 30 years. Puppy milling only began to boom in the late 1970’s and beyond. Puppy mill puppies do not receive adequate socialization – if any. They are also likely to be shipped to retail outlets during the very significant early fear period (eight – 10 weeks or maybe 12 weeks) 6. The emergence of the ‘no-kill’ movement, which promotes the placement of all dogs, including those with behavior challenges who, in the past, were more likely to have been euthanized.

7. A growing number of hoarder case investigations by animal protection agencies that result in the

Genetics vs. Environment

An often-asked question is, “Is my dog’s fearful behavior genetic or did someone or something cause it?” The answer is always “both.” Genetics as well as life experiences always have a combined influence on behavior.

In the case of genetics, what is actually heritable is a dog’s propensity to be reinforced by (or to find aversive) a particular behavior. Border collies are genetically programmed to find running after things to be very reinforcing - which makes them good at herding, while Labrador retrievers have a propensity to be reinforced by putting things in their mouths – hence they are good at retrieving. Conversely, a dog who has a genetic propensity to find new and/or unusual stimuli aversive might be said to be genetically fearful – a common problem for dogs produced by breeders (including puppy mills) who do not deliberately make an effort to breed for sound temperament.

If you take two puppies of similar age and expose them to a novel stimulus, given equal amounts of proper socialization, the puppy who is of genetically sound temperament will likely be calm and/or curious, while the genetically less-stable pup is more likely to exhibit a fear response. Genetically less-stable pups need much more socialization if they are to develop into normal, stable dogs – but since it is virtually impossible to tell how genetically-stable a pup may be, the solution is to super-socialize all pups. The stable ones will, of course, benefit from the extra experience too.

Environmental impact can begin very early. For example, if a pup is genetically sound for temperament but his mother exhibits fearful behavior toward people approaching the whelping box, the pup can learn from this to be fearful of people at a very young age – as young as three weeks. Additionally, fear-causing events during sensitive periods, as well as significantly traumatic events at any time, can cause environmentally-induced longlasting fearful behavior.

one’s best interests to take steps to prevent a puppy or young dog from becoming fearful. One might think that would mean keeping him safe at home where nothing bad can happen to him but the opposite is actually true.

Undersocialization is likely the leading cause of fear-related behaviors (see box: Vaccinations and Socialization on page 18).

The Amygdala

The amygdala is an almond-shaped complex of nuclei embedded in the white matter of the [brain’s] temporal lobe, just below the cortex and anterior to the hippocampus. In dogs and other mammals, the amygdala mediates the expression of fear and the modulation of aggression.

In addition to fear, the amygdala appears to play an important role in the mediation of social behavior.

Conditioned emotional responses are learned when a neutral stimulus (e.g. a tone) is paired with an unconditioned, fear-eliciting stimulus (e.g. shock).

After a number of pairings in which the conditioned stimulus (CS) and unconditioned stimulus (US) are presented in a close temporal order, the CS will gradually acquire the ability to elicit the fear response without the presentation of the US. This connection between the CS and the US appears to be mediated by the amygdala in conjunction with the thalamus and other related brain sites.

Source: Lindsay, S. R. (2000) Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training Volume One: Adaptation and Learning Iowa State Press/© John Wiley & Sons* © Can Stock Photo

seizure of hundreds of undersocialized and/or fearful dogs who are then rehomed.

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Preventing Fear

Fear is one of the primary causes of aggression. It also badly degrades a dog’s quality of life, as well as the lives of the humans who love him. Therefore it is in every-

* Reproduced with permission BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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COVER STORY Counter Conditioning and Desensitization

Counter conditioning and desensitization (CC&DS) involves changing a pup’s association with a scary stimulus from negative to positive. The easiest way to give most pups a positive association is with very highvalue, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken – canned, baked or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it is a low fat, low calorie food.

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non-moving stimulus, perhaps even sniffing or targeting to it.

6.

Then return to the original threshold distance and add intensity to the stimulus (move the vacuum a little; have two children instead of one; have the man put on a hat or a backpack), gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until the puppy is delighted to have the moderately intense stimHere is how it works: ulus in close proximity.

1.

Determine the distance at which the pup can be 7.

Now, go back to the original threshold distance in the presence of the stimulus and be alert or wary but and increase the intensity again by having the helper not extremely fearful. This is called the threshold disturn the vacuum on briefly, feed treats the instant it is tance. switched on then turn it off and stop the treats (or turn 2.

While holding the pup on leash, have a helper up the volume, add more children etc.) present the stimulus at this threshold distance. The in8.

Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually stant the pup sees the stimulus, start feeding bits of increase the length of time you have the pup in the chicken, non-stop. presence of the increased-in3.

After several seconds, tensity stimulus until he is have the helper remove the happy (but not emotionally stimulus and stop feeding the aroused) to have it presented chicken. continuously.

4.

Keep repeating steps 9.

Begin decreasing dis1-3 until the presentation of tance in small increments, the stimulus at that distance moving the pup closer to the consistently causes the puppy stimulus (or the stimulus to look at you with a happy closer to the puppy) and obPuppies should be be exposed to any stimulus face and a “Yay! Where’s my taining the CER consistently starting at their threshold distance chicken?” expression. This is a at each new distance. conditioned emotional response (CER) – the pup’s as10.

When the pup is happy to have the higher insociation with the stimulus at threshold distance is now tensity stimulus close to him he is ready for the final positive instead of negative. phase. Return to the original distance and obtain the 5.

Now increase the intensity of the stimulus. You CER there with a full intensity stimulus – a running, can do that by decreasing the distance slightly; by inmoving vacuum; multiple children laughing and playing; creasing movement of the stimulus at the same disa tall man with a beard wearing a hat, sunglasses and a tance (a child walking, skipping or swinging her arms); backpack. Then gradually decrease distance until the by increasing number of stimuli (two or three children pup is happy to be in the presence of the full-intensity instead of one); increasing the visual ‘threat’ (a tall man stimulus. He now thinks the stimulus is a very good instead of a short one or a man with a beard instead of thing as a reliable predictor of very yummy treats. In the case of a human stimulus, you can gradually work a clean-shaven one); or by increasing volume (if it is a stimulus that makes noise, such as a vacuum cleaner). I up to actual interaction with the human(s) at this stage, by having the person(s) drop treats as they walk by, prefer to decrease distance first in small increments by then letting him take treats from their fingers without moving the puppy closer to the location where the direct eye contact and eventually working up to normal stimulus will appear, achieving the CER at each new interaction. distance, until the pup is happy to be very near to the 16

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COVER STORY The key to socialization is positive experiences

When you are socializing your pup, take care to fill his environment with happy experiences. When you do this, you are giving him a positive classical association with his environment by programming his brain to see the world as a fun and happy place. Be extra sensitive to your pup’s perspective on the world, and watch closely for low-level signs of stress that will tell you he’s not enjoying himself. These might include avoidance (trying to move away from something), lip licking, yawning, shutting down (absence of behavior) and more.

If you see any of these signs, identify what it is that is worrying him and increase his distance from that stimulus. Then carefully work to give him a positive association with that thing, using counter conditioning to pair the stimulus with something wonderful, like chicken – baked, broiled or canned (see box: Counter Conditioning and Desensitization on page 16).

now offer puppy socialization classes. Here, rather than – or in addition to – the routine of teaching basic good manners, pups are gently exposed to a variety of stimuli, below threshold, in a safe environment where any early fears can be identified and tended to. Pups encounter a variety of people wearing strange costumes; listen to odd sounds from easily-available ‘sound desensitization’ CDs; walk on and through a variety of surfaces and obstacles, see a vacuum cleaner at a distance and plenty more. My own puppy social class even got to meet Olivia, our miniature horse, recently.

With efforts such as these from trainers and owners who understand the vital importance of early socialization, along with an increasing awareness of how to effectively help dogs who do have fear-related issues, we can hope to see the trend reverse, and start seeing fewer dogs in our practices – and our society – with fearful behavior.

Puppy Socials

Back on the Horse

With a little (okay – a lot) of luck and a good socialization program, you may never need a counter conditioning program for your pup – he will grow up mentally stable and free of fear and be exactly the happy canine companion you were hoping for.

A growing number of positive reinforcement trainers, recognizing the importance of early socialization,

The more complex the stimulus, the more intense the fear or arousal response. The longer the pup has had a fear response to the object, the more challenging the behavior is to modify. Studies show that when rats are exposed to a fear-causing stimulus, they recover from that fear much more easily and quickly if rehabilitative efforts happen sooner (within 24 hours) rather than later BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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(days, weeks or months down the road). For this very reason, fans of horseback riding have long heard the admonition to get back on the horse after falling off; getting back on immediately and having a good experience will diminish the likelihood of a deep-seated lifetime fear of horses.

The same is true for puppies who have experienced fear-causing encounters. The sooner they are re-exposed to the scary thing at sub-threshold intensity and counter conditioning is effectively undertaken to give them a new, positive association to the stimulus, the easier it is to accomplish and the less likely the pup will suffer from

Vaccinations and Socialization

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A veterinarian’s first priority is the physical health of his/her clients. As a result, sadly, some veterinarians still issue the out-of-date edict to their puppy owners to not take their puppy anywhere until he is fully vaccinated – age four-six months. This, of course, totally overlooks the very real concern for a pup’s mental health, and the vital need for proper socialization to occur well before the pup is fully vaccinated. The primary socialization period is early and short – when the pup is three - 14 weeks of age.

At four months, the earliest age a pup will have received all his first-year shots, the undersocialization damage is done and the owner must now modify the fearful behavior that could have been avoided had the veterinarian given more informed advice.

In fact, the need for the ‘puppy series’ of vaccinations is widely misunderstood by many puppy owners. It is not that the pup actually needs a series of shots to boost his immune system to a protective level.

What actually happens is this: when a puppy is born and begins to nurse he drinks colostrum – milk produced during the first day or two after birth - that contains a high antibody count. By drinking colostrum, the pup gains an early level of immunities from his mother, which protects him until his own system can produce immunities.

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At some point between the age of eight - 16 weeks the mother’s immunities start to fade. If given too soon a vaccine is ineffective because mom’s immunities are still at work. If vaccinated too late the pup is unprotected for a while because mom’s immunities are gone and the pup’s have not yet been triggered by the tardy vaccination. However, as long as a pup is vaccinated in a timely manner during the puppy series, he should be adequately protected, especially if the owner doesn’t expose him to very high risk environments such as dog parks, dogs or puppies known to be sick, or places where sick canines are known to frequent.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior Position Statement on Puppy Socialization states: “In general, puppies can start puppy socialization classes as early as seven - eight weeks of age. Puppies should receive a minimum of one set of vaccines at least seven days prior to the first class and a first deworming. They should be kept up-to-date on vaccines throughout the class.”

It goes on to say: “In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.”

In other words, your pup is more likely to die from behavior Genetically stable pups problems – including fear and agare likely to gression often related to lack of be curious socialization – than he is from berather than coming sick at a puppy socializafearful tion or training class.

a lengthy – or lifetime – negative association with it.

Absolutely avoid making the mistake of flooding.

Flooding is exposing your pup to the full intensity of a scary stimulus and making him endure it until he loses all hope of escape and gives up. Proper behavior modification strives to keep the exposure sub-threshold.

Flooding is considered to be inhumane and is not a recommended behavior modification technique for dogs.

Although it is sometimes used in behavior modification with humans, it is always with the consent of the human subject and the human has access to a ‘shut-off ’ signal of some kind, so he can turn off the stimulus if it becomes unbearable. A dog forced to undergo flooding is not asked for consent and has no relief switch to turn it off. n Pat Miller CPDT CDBC is a Certified Dog and Horse Behavior Consultant, Certified Professional Dog Trainer and owner of Peaceable Paws in Fairplay, MD. She has authored The Power of Positive Dog Training, Positive Perspectives, Positive Perspectives 2 and Play with Your Dog. She is also training editor for The Whole Dog Journal, writes for Tufts University’s Your Dog and several other publications.

COVER STORY No Place for Shock

Naturally, PPG regards shock collars as absolutely unnecessary and inappropriate in any training program.

Given the potential for an exceptionally strong fear response during the early fear period – as well as during the secondary fear period – it pains us greatly to see trainers who market their shock collar training even for very young puppies.

Of course they mask the aversive nature of shock collars by calling them ‘electronic’ or ‘e’ collars and ‘electronic’ fences. Some even go so far as to ride on the popularity and reputation of the well-known gentle handling technique of T-Touch by calling their shock training ‘E-Touch.’

Our preference would be to see shock collars outlawed as they are in several European countries. But until that happy day arrives, we implore puppy owners to resist anyone’s attempt to buckle a shock collar on a puppy for training or confinement purposes. A pup should not have to live in fear of his own collar and his own backyard while his owner is working to convince him that the world is a safe and happy place.

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The Crossover Client

Eileen Anderson discovers that her belief system required a complete makeover before she could fully evolve into a force-free trainer

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I Tried R+ and It Didn’t Work This was my experience and it was real—it’s not just something people say to provoke positive reinforcement trainers. I went in and out of this phase, trying and failing several times.

In 2002, when I got my rat terrier, Cricket, I read about positive reinforcement training on the young internet. I wanted to teach Cricket to walk on a loose leash. I read about the ‘Be a Tree’ method, wherein one stops forward progress whenever the dog pulls. I thought I was trying positive reinforcement training when I tried to be a tree. It sounded elegant and reasonable. But I did not know to start indoors, in low distraction. What I had read did not mention using food as a reinforcer when the dog was walking nicely, so I did not.

And I did not know about any of the quadrants then, much less recognize the presence of the other BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

Positive reinforcement ensures that desired behaviors are repeated

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hen I crossed over to training primarily with positive reinforcement, I had no idea how much my behavior and even my belief system would need to change. I had to question my faith in some long-held cultural assumptions and learn to rely on scientific observation and analysis.

Crossing over was a lengthy process for me, and even now, after several years, I occasionally fall back onto old assumptions and behaviors. I wonder sometimes if I am the only one so vulnerable to cultural programming. But a quick look around social media says no, I am probably not.

There are intellectual, emotional and cultural barriers to crossing over. For me, certain barriers were so large that they defined whole phases in my thinking and practice regarding training. I’ll share several of these phases here, in case identifying them could be helpful to trainers who meet with resistance or confusion from their clients. Once upon a time, I was that client.

three in the protocol as I was practicing it.

I followed the ‘Be a Tree’ protocol as faithfully as I knew how every day for six months and, not surprisingly, it did not work. Cricket would immediately tighten the leash and I would stop. She would stand there barking. I would wait until she accidentally loosened the leash. It often took a while. Then we would go on, perhaps three more steps, and the process would repeat.

Now I know that she was probably too far over threshold to perceive that the loosening of the leash was connected to being allowed to go forward and that some sort of reinforcement (though not intended by me) was working to maintain the barking. And I know for sure my timing was bad. But since my attempt at the method was unsuccessful, I assumed that positive reinforcement training in general did not work. If I had known about learning theory then, I would not have hesitated to further generalize that learning theory did not work either (indeed, that was a later phase).

Is that not a little strange? Why reject the whole thing?

Suppose I had an orthopedic problem and needed surgery. The operation, a well-understood and documented procedure to be performed by a skilled surgeon, had a predicted 90 percent chance of success—but it failed.

My possible responses might include: • The surgeon did her best but, due to complications, the method failed • The surgeon failed • Western medicine failed It is so easy to jump to that third way of thinking with dog training. When we are new to training, the idea that it could be based in science is new too. And the science does not always fit well with a lot of what we “know” from living in a punishment-based culture.

R+ Is Not Practical Believe it or not, I failed a second time with loose leash walking, four years later and with a different dog. I was toying with positive reinforcement training again and had read about Premack’s principle, a theory stating that a stronger response or a preferred response will reinforce a weaker response. Since my new dog, Summer, was fixated on squirrels, I decided that running together to a tree where there was a squirrel would be the reward for walking nicely for a few steps and sitting and giving me eye contact. She learned quickly how to “ask” to run to the squirrel. The problem was getting her attention back after that. Also, I had accidentally created the adrenaline-filled, anticipatory stay so prized by some agility competitors. Summer was on pins and needles then exploded into action when released. But I lacked the skill to get her back and I saw that the main result was Summer getting more and more hyped up on walks.

I thought, “Well, that worked, but it’s sure not very practical.”

Force Is ‘Necessary’ for Dogs with Issues Another common phase of crossing over is the period where we believe that positive reinforcement is fine for most dogs/teaching tricks/teaching the basics but we still need to punish dogs with behavior problems. Yes, I really believed this. I remember one night at an obedience club seeing a dog that was said to be aggressive. I told my friend I was glad the dog was wearing a prong collar—this was a dog who needed it and we had to con-

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sider the safety of the other dogs. It made intuitive sense to me that tough dogs needed a tougher approach. I had never watched that TV show, by the way. That idea resonated culturally well before it came along.

I could think of no option except to suppress the “bad” behavior. I perceived a dog who bit as being “tough and mean” rather than afraid, as he probably was. And I had no clue that wearing a prong could worsen his fears as well as exacerbate the risk of aggression against the other dogs.

My Dog Is Different Even after I had gotten the rudiments of operant learning, I figured that there must be exceptions to the basic principles. I did not understand the breadth and depth of learning theory. I would swear up and down that a certain behavior one of my dogs performed regularly was not getting reinforced. Or I would search for things that “did not work” as predicted. When I thought I had found one, I had this victorious a-ha feeling: I just knew my dog was different! I had a grand old time going around saying how this did not work and that did not work.

I’ve Got It Figured Out A little learning is a dangerous thing, at least for some of us. At some point I was convinced that I had realized things that almost no one else had. I had it all figured

Training: Golden Nuggets from PPG Members Who’s Undermining Who?

If an owner can honestly state they are doing everything their trainer has recommended and to the level needed, if they can also state they are doing their homework and are compliant with the dog still not improving, AND you have ruled out a clinical explanation, look to others who interact with the dog.

Children and other family members, neighbors, frequent visitors etc. may all interact with the dog when the owner is not looking in ways that undermine all their hard work.

- Karen Peak, West Wind Dog Training & The Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project

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out. And I found support from the iconoclasts: I would glom onto scholarly articles that did not really say what the people who circulated them were saying they did, opinion pieces by critics of behavioral science who did not understand it, and arguments that had elements of truth that had been inappropriately generalized.

I distrusted expertise in behavior analysis and figured that the iconoclast du jour had found a loophole. The trouble was that I did not (and still do not) know the basics well enough to be “proving” there were exceptions.

I am not saying there is no nuance to the science; I am saying that what I perceived as exceptional was merely erroneous.

Not So Fast!

This is not exactly a phase but more of a common setback during crossover. I remember an example from a conversation with a forcefree trainer friend. We were talking about a talented young agility student. He was taking lessons with a local, so-called balanced trainer known for her rough handling. I mentioned this to my friend, and she said, “Oh I hate it when children are taught to hurt their dogs.”

I flinched, big-time.

Even though I had reported this development as bad news, I was not ready to hear blunt language about

Understanding the role emotions play in behavior is essential for trainers

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hurting a dog. I had done collar pops myself only for a short time, never liked it, and had quit more than a year before.

Still, I reflexively defended the rough trainer. Why? I don’t even know.

Despite spending so much time arguing and looking for loopholes, eventually I “got it.” I started seeing how behavior is a map of what is reinforcing. I perceived the fallout of aversives. I learned about competing reinforcers and saw how, when a method failed, one common reason was that there was reinforcement coming from another source. I realized that training involved mechanical skill and that without it certain methods would not work well.

Failures became easier to analyze. I learned enough about canine body language to see the obvious differences in the demeanors of dogs trained primarily with aversives and those with whom the use of aversives was minimized.

What Pushed Me Off the Fence?

What helped? Seeing more and more examples of positive reinforcement working. Learning

© Can Stock Photo BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

about the theory—know your science and do not shy away from it with your skeptical clients! Learning about the role emotions play in behavior. Repetition.

But it may well have been agility lessons with an excellent teacher that finally helped me turn the corner.

Human neophytes in agility see their dogs go the “wrong” direction or take the “wrong” obstacle again and again. Without the influence of good teachers or other resources, students blame the dog. My teacher challenged my assumptions repeatedly with gentle but inexorable logic.

If I claimed that my dog “defied” me by taking the tunnel, my teacher would remind me how much I had reinforced tunnel work. If I complained that my dog turned in front of me, my teacher would point out that I had slowed down just before she turned. When I thought my dog took a “random” direction, my teacher would instruct me to look where my own feet were

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pointing. She showed me over and over that my dog’s seemingly inexplicable behavior was usually a direct response to mine.

Most importantly, she helped me figure out what would motivate my dog more than the wildlife on the other side of the fence. Seeing my dog’s interest level change from, “This is okay if there is nothing else to do” to “Please, oh please, let’s play again!” showed me the true power of positive reinforcement. n Eileen Anderson BM MM MS is a passionate amateur dog trainer who writes about learning theory, her life with three dogs and force-free training in her blog and other publications. Find her blog here.

Training: Golden Nuggets from PPG Members Prepare to Be Amazed!

Hand feeding is a powerful training tool and relationship builder! Try this... Put away the food bowls for at least two weeks and use your dog’s food to reward desirable behaviors throughout the day.

To do this mix up a few days’ worth of kibble with some goodies such as bits of chicken, hot dogs, beef, bacon, cheese etc. Add a bit of broth or warm water to the mix (about 1/8 cup liquid for every cup of food).

Put it all in a large zip lock bag or sealable container and store in the fridge. The kibble will soften slightly and pick up all those yummy flavors of the goodies you’ve added.

Put the morning ration of kibble mixture into a treat pouch and hand feed a few pieces at a time throughout the day to reward behaviors that you would like the dog to repeat. Put the evening ration of kibble mixture into food dispensing toys.

Prepare to be amazed by the changes in your dog’s behavior and in your relationship!

- Anne Pantall CPDT-KA, Paws on Parole & A Clever Canine BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Laying the Foundations

A lack of solid obedience training is often overlooked for the sake of speed in dog sports. Barb Levenson explains how to bridge the gap and obtain both

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was attending an agility trial recently Obedience foundation and was sitting by the crating area work builds up the massaging my dog. A couple sitting dog-trainer partnership behind me had two Labradors, the older one their agility competition dog. This dog was allowed to be loose on his mat, unleashed and uncrated. I turned around to see him with his back to his owner and his nose in the rear of a nearby dog. The man called the dog two, three, four or more times. There was no response from the dog who kept on sniffing. The wife, annoyed (probably at her husband), got up, smacked the dog on the rear with a newspaper she was reading and yelled at him to get into his crate. The dog was surprised (me too) and shrank into his crate. I was appalled. I believe in a noforce/no hit methodology. I failed to understand what they thought they were teaching their dog. But what was the real adding obedience to their foundation work. Their dogs problem here? The lack of a solid obedience foundaare in the habit of taking their cues from the handler, tion. whether for close up obstacle work or distance handling.

Three-day eventing is an interesting equestrian sport. This builds up the partnership and the dogs are used to In this discipline the horses are required to compete in obtaining reinforcement for their responsiveness from three divisions - dressage, stadium jumping and cross their handler. country. The dressage is needed in order to control the In my opinion, agility is not just about speed. It is horse through the jumping and cross country. about obedience to the handler while running at a full I relate this to the dog sports in which I compete. We gallop - just as horses do in the jumping and cross counalso have three similar venues – obedience/rally (drestry of three-day eventing. A great way to look at the sage), jumping (stadium jumping) and standard agility training needed is with Susan Garrett’s acronym – courses (the cross country in equestrian sports). HowDASH. ever, many times the obedience portion is lacking or toD = Desire tally missing. Sometimes the dogs cannot perform a A = Accuracy quiet sit at the start line or will run around the ring with S = Speed no real connection to the handler.

H = Habitat Most of the top agility competitors in both the US Note that speed only comes in the third position. Acand the rest of the world add a strong element of obedi- curacy is the second most important element and that is ence to their dog training but, unless you go looking for your obedience. The dog must be accurate and true in it, you will not see it. Strong world competitors such as his response to the handler’s cues. That cannot be done Susan Garrett and Silvia Trkman are however known for with speed. The dog must be able to think, i.e. become 24

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obedient and responsive to the cue before the drive and speed is added. Many people today believe it is all about speed and put this into the equation before the accuracy.

They then wonder why the dog cannot perform. “He can do it at home,” is heard when they commiserate with their friends at the trial.

This is how I train my dogs for three-day eventing.

First, all my dogs learn to work for all their meals until they are aged 14 - 18 months. I train using their breakfast, lunch (for puppies) and dinner in the house for laying the obedience, rally and agility foundations. I start in the house because I can control all the distractions, an important part of training my dogs. There are virtually no distractions when I am working with one of my dogs. All other dogs are somewhere else in the house.

I’m building a reinforcement and relationship history with the individual dog and do not want any interference from other dogs.

D = Desire is achieved because all my dogs start out working for their dog food. I don’t use treats at home.

The reason for this is the lack of distractions – treats will cover the distractions down the road. If I start with treats I have nowhere to go. I audited a Learning and Motivation class at the University of Pittsburgh and remember the professor suggested started with the lowest value food the animal will work for. Once the foundation is laid you can raise the value of the food as needed for the behavior.

My training consists entirely of games and reinforcement and I have not had a dog yet that did not want to eat his food. Should a dog tell me he does not want to eat/work he gets a kiss on the top of his head and all the food goes back into the bag. I will not reinforce a behavior I do not like and I will not bribe my dogs to eat/work. I use a high quality food and will not diminish the value of that food by begging the dog to eat with treats in it. Consequently, my dogs eat from the get-go.

A = Accuracy is accomplished by using meals to develop a consistent response to my cues. Before we go anywhere the dog is proficient in reading and understanding my cues. Also, my cues are clear, concise and consistent so the dog doesn’t have to guess what I am saying to him. Over the years I have developed hand, body or verbal cues for every behavior I will teach my dogs. I will usually start with a non-verbal cue and add the verbal later when the behavior is shaped. Regardless, I am sure before I move on that the dog is clear about

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the communication cue. It should not vary. That would be like adding a Chinese word for sit that I don’t understand. The three C’s are crucial as we teach our dogs.

Once my dog can read and respond to the cue in the house I move to my training building where I add additional accuracy with some distractions. Just the size and equipment in the building provides distractions, especially if I have started some preliminary work on those obstacles such as tunnels and the table.

S = Speed If the dog is accurate in the building I will then add the toy with which I have been shaping and building value separately. I am careful to add tremendous value to certain toys and will build them into this part of the training. For example, I can use tugging to reinforce ‘sit’ and ‘down stays’ as I go back to the dog, say “yes” and tell them to get the tug toy I am holding.

And I use a tug as reinforcement for responding to my release word at the start line. I have also used balls to teach the puppy to drive out of a tunnel. They all fit into the mix to build drive, speed and enthusiasm for the particular exercise. I will even use tugging down the road for more advanced obedience exercises. Tugging raises the arousal level in preparation for shows.

H = Habitat Finally, in order to change the habitat, I Success is built on the dog’s obedience foundation

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select obedience and agility venues that allow me to train in the ring – ASCA for agility and USDAA CynoSport for rally/obedience.

CynoSport even allows handlers to have food in the ring. What a great tool to have on you for your young, green dog. He will quickly learn that reinforcement is available – even in this very strange place.

In my opinion, all success is built upon the obedience foundation you provide for your dog. Without this understanding handlers have nowhere to go when the dog misbehaves. People smack, yell and blame the dog for misbehavior instead of asking for another behavior.

If you have no obedience foundation and repertoire you have no place to go.

Equestrian sports are the foundation of The dog must be accurate in its many of our dog sports. Horse trainers here response to the handler’s cues and around the world have moved from force training to horse whispering and obedience/dressage Barb Levenson BS has been competing in dog foundation both in English and Western classes. I besports since 1981 and teaching obedience and agility lieve they have it right. Watch a three-day event online. privately since 1985. She has titles in Obedience, You will be amazed that so much can be accomplished Agility and Herding and heads the Barb Levenson on the back of a horse. And the beauty is that we do not Dog Training Centers in Pittsburgh, PA. Barb’s first have to know how to ride to train our dogs. We just have book Flatwork for Agility was released in early 2007. to know how to train. n

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BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Safety First

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With children being the most common victims of dog bites, Joan Orr and Teresa Lewin present a checklist to keep children in day and foster care safe around the resident dog(s)

his checklist is intended to help identify potential child safety concerns for parents considering a home-based day care for their child, agencies conducting a safety audit of a home-based day care and for social services agencies conducting a safety audit of a foster home or permanent home for children. The information gained from using this checklist provides information to be used as part of an overall assessment.

Appropriate steps should be taken so that the proposed child care location meets all criteria in the low risk category.

High Risk: Dog should be removed from the premises before children can be left at this home if any one of these boxes is checked. □

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Dog is chained or tied up or there is evidence that dog is kept tied up Dog seems uncared for; house smells like urine or feces Dog comes to the door barking and growling and continues even after owner answers the door Owner is rough with the dog, yelling, hitting or grabbing it by the collar to get it to comply Dog seems afraid of the owner or ignores the owner's attempts to control it Dog is a kept as a guard dog

Moderate Risk: Dog should be confined with no access to the children, pending evaluation by a dog behavior specialist and remedial training of the dog if required. □ Dog comes to the door barking and/or growling but stops when told to do so and seems friendly when the owner answers the door □ Dog insists on getting between you and the owner or the owner’s child □ Dog is overly excited and races about or Children are the most common victims of dog bites

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jumps all over you Dog holds his tail up in the air and wags it slowly or not at all Dog wags his tail low to ground or between his legs Dog seems fearful and hides, retreats from you or barks at you There are multiple dogs

Low Risk: Dog should never be left alone with the children, even if the risk is low. □

□ □ □

□

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Dog is on a loose leash, in a crate or in a down stay when the owner answers the door.

Dog greets you in a calm and friendly manner with wagging tail. Dog obeys the owner and the owner rewards this There are well-defined areas both inside and outside for children and dogs where each has no access to the other There is a crate or other location where the dog can go to get away from the children.

The dog owner agrees to supervise all interactions with the dog The dog owner has taken part in dog bite prevention safety training and understands how to read dog body language and how to keep children safe and what to do in case of a dog bite incident. n

For further information, please visit Doggone Safe.

Joan Orr MSc is a scientist and internationally recognized clicker trainer. Joan is a co-founder and president of Doggone Safe, a non-profit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention through education.

In association with animal behavior specialist Teresa Lewin, Joan has co-created the dog bite prevention board game Doggone Crazy!, the Be a Tree bite prevention education program and the Clicker Puppy training DVD. BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Building Bonds That Last

Each stage of a child’s development is different and owners can help their dogs prepare for each one, says Jennifer Shyrock

ecause dog and baby/toddler dynamics are constantly evolving, I would like to suggest that we shift the emphasis from the standard ‘introducing dog to baby’ and focus instead on working to build bonds as baby grows through ongoing, consistent trust and comfort. It has become more common for families to prepare their dog for the arrival of a baby, but far less common for them to prepare for the stages of crawling or beginning to walk. Ideally, planning and preparation would continue for each new developmental stage throughout the first couple of years. But that takes work, you say…. Yes! Indeed it does; relationships take time and work.

Dogs rely on predictability and consistent body language. Babies change quickly and constantly during the first two years and almost nothing is predictable. That alone makes it hard for dog and parents - as soon as one stage is over another begins.

6-12 Months: Many families have become relaxed with their dog and baby by this time. They feel a sense of comfort as their dog may have adjusted well so far. The challenges now are that baby may be sitting up, using new equipment and possibly crawling.

These new positions and activities can be a total game changer for the dog, who is used to baby being less active. This is a great age to use a baby carrier or Inviting the dog for ‘cuddle time’ helps him get used to being around the baby and gives him a choice

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backpack to go for walks or dog activities together, as baby can safely watch while attached to Mom or Dad. Management while baby is practicing gross motor skills is important. It is best if the dog has a nice ‘kid-free’ zone during these times.

I highly encourage families to begin preparing for times of separation in their kid-free zone very early on, so that when it is needed it is not stressful. This is a common frustration I hear from families during this stage if they have not prepared ahead. It is important to emphasize that interaction between dog and baby does not have to include physical contact during this time.

Observation and just being in the same area is perfect.

12-24 Months: Dogs who may have adjusted to the visual of a crawling baby will now need to adjust to the awkward, unsteady walk of a toddler. This stage is exhausting for parents, as toddlers want to explore and may protest when interrupted from something of interest. This is the time of bumps and bruises due to stumbling and falling often as they master their new skills.

The stress felt by Mom or Dad can spill over to or be picked up on by the dog. Often families will expect too much of their dogs during this phase. This is also an age of imitation. Parents love to see their baby mimic their behavior. This must be taken seriously when it comes to parents’ interactions with their dogs. Monkey see monAs they get older, children can be reinforced for good choices around the dog

key do: if you hug your dog, your baby will hug your dog. This is another reason why only force-free training methods should be used, as babies will mimic how parents interact with the dog.

Management is essential at this stage. Parents may feel badly separating their dog at times during the day but too much exposure or too many stressful encounters at this stage can have a long-term impact on the relationship. Short and successful inclusion is ideal.

I suggest parents encourage baby to stop and look at the dog but not to approach or touch. Mom and Dad can calmly position themselves in between the two and encourage their child to wave or blow kisses instead of approaching or touching the dog. Practicing this type of interaction in the home helps when encountering other dogs outside the home. Preventing the baby/toddler from approaching the dog increases the dog's comfort.

Allowing a baby/toddler to approach the dog can increase stress and the potential for anticipatory anxiety. In almost all the growl or bite cases I have seen over the years, the child has entered the dog’s space. By not drawing attention to the dog and encouraging other behaviors for the child, you can help both succeed.

2-3 Year Olds: Management is still required during this stage but many two year olds are beginning to learn boundaries. Testing those boundaries and fighting them is normal for the child and challenging for parents. Many times, stickers are helpful for immediate reinforcement of good choices and behavior around the dog. I like to begin including kids this age (with full parental guidance) in helping with activities for the dog, such as stuffing Kongs, making kibble cakes, hiding toys etc.

This is also the age where I use visual markers for boundaries. Stop signs or tape on floor can be great visuals to remind kids of boundaries and comfort zones. At this age, I introduce the Be a Tree concept. Practicing from a young age at home with familiar dogs makes this a nice conditioned response when and if needed in other situations.

Remember, every dog and family is different. Our male Siberian

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husky, Bailey, was uncomfortable when we brought home Kelsyann as a newborn. He avoided coming close and observed from a distance. We began specific activities with Bailey while holding Kelsyann. One of the activities we began was morning ‘cuddle time.’ I would hold Kelsyann and invite Bailey to snuggle next to me while Kelsyann was in my arms or on my other side.

Bailey loves being close to older kids and adults, so this was a great activity for him.

We continued inviting him for cuddle time as Kelsyann got older. Inviting him allowed him the choice to participate or not and he was always free to leave. We have continued this for four years and now both he and Kelsyann know exactly what to expect. As Kelsyann has grown, we have gone from parent-guided (hand-overhand petting) to one-handed petting.

Kelsyann now invites Bailey up for cuddles and he can choose to come close or not. Bailey often comes to the bed and waits for her to invite him and he snuggles close to her. As you can see, this progression has taken TIME! Relationships take time. Parents with babies and toddlers must be patient in the building of relationships between their dog and child. Trust and comfort must be a regular part of this relationship. Short and sweet predictable parent-guided interactions will help this to be a success. n Jennifer Shyrock BA CDBC is a certified dog behavior consultant specializing in dog and baby/toddler dynamics. She is the founder of Family Paws Parent Education.

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Taming the Beast

Managing an aggressive dog is a permanent commitment but it is most definitely possible, says Diane Garrod

wning an aggressive dog creates immediate liability. It is critical to use prevention and management whether your dog is at home, in the car or out on a walk. Managing an aggressive dog should be taken very seriously. It means making a clear commitment which involves never putting him in a situation where he will aggress again. This sounds easier than it is to implement, nevertheless it is the key to change.

Managing an aggressive dog includes: * changing the dog’s environment * providing exercise where aggression is not practiced * providing mental stimulation * training * giving the dog a job Dog gates are a useful tool for creating boundaries within the home

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It should also include getting behavioral help to desensitize and counter condition the dog to his triggers, but this article will focus on prevention and management. Managing an aggressive dog also means stopping all aversive punishment as aggression simply begets aggression. Positive reward-based methods should always be used to re-train the dog.

There are many so-called categories of aggression, from territorial to resource guarding and fear-based aggression. Each has its own set of protocols to change the behavior. However, aggression can also be genetic or created by health issues. Mostly though, it is exhibited especially to humans - by a dog that is fearful and lacks self-confidence. Dogs tend to do what works and, if aggressive behavior has worked in the past, the dog will continue to aggress and the behavior often gets stronger and stronger.

Environment

The first step is to change the dog's environment and set clear rules and boundaries, which is part of the process. Take a good look at your dog's environment. What rules and boundaries have you created?

Set up baby gates and create ‘no go’ areas in the house. Your dog should work his way into the household by showing he can follow the rules and boundaries you have set up. This is important in interactions with family members, just as it is with any visitors. You must educate your dog how to interact, teach him what is acceptable and help him learn that visitors are allowed to be there. Reward your dog for what he is doing right and do not take him past his threshold. This means that when a visitor arrives you must know what your dog's comfort level is with each individual person.

Safety is the primary concern where people are involved. Manage the interacBARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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tions at all times and never leave an aggressive dog unsupervised.

What play area does your dog have and do you engage with him on a daily basis in games and training? Is there an area where he can just be a dog, where training can take place and games like ball and Frisbee can be played? Dogs need mental stimulation and engagement with their owners in various activities, whether that means trick training, problem solving mental activities or simply a game of Frisbee.

Consider where the dog’s safe zones are. Are there places where noise is minimal, where stress levels are low and sleep is encouraged? Music does soothe the savage beast. A safe zone is a place where a dog can go for at least an hour a day to unwind, refresh, be peaceful and be devoid of any overly stimulating action.

Avoidance

The more you avoid an aggressive dog's triggers, the less he will practice aggressive behaviors and the stronger non-aggressive behaviors will become. If you can prevent all aggression-related activity and replace it with reward-based activity, you can have a better prognosis for changing your dog's behavior.

Management of whom he meets, when he meets them, where he goes, why he goes and what he learns is all up to you as his owner. If a dog's behavior cannot be changed, then management will have to be a lifetime consideration to prevent aggression for the sake of zero liability.

With aggression, behavior modification is a wise decision. Behavior modification replaces bad behavior with good behavior. Working with a qualified behaviorist, veterinarian behaviorist or behavior trainer is a vital part of the toolbox. Management and prevention are a big part of the process. There are many steps to working with an aggressive dog and number one on your list should be to consult with a qualified professional. Managing your dog's stress levels is essential to managing his aggressive behavior. n Diane Garrod BSc is a certified Tellington Touch Practitioner (CA1), ATA Certified Treibball Instructor and holds certificates in Theriogenology, Science in Writing and Animal Behavior. She is the owner of the Canine Transformations Learning Center.

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Rising to the Challenge

Diane MacIntyre details how one dog training club in northern Queensland made the crossover to force-free methods and has not looked back since

t started with an email, as a lot of these things tend to these days, back in April 2012. Pine Rivers Dog Obedience Club in northern Queensland, Australia was advertising the Enhancing the Delivery of Dog Obedience Training Workshop being held in September 2012.

The email read in part: “Our Club is concerned about the dropout rate of handlers through our various class levels and the overall fall in the number of entries in obedience competitions – particularly the fact that there are a lot of ‘old faithfuls’ competing but not a proportionate increase in the number of newcomers to our sport.

“We believe that the time is ripe to review the structure and content of our classes at Pine Rivers and to see if there are better ways of delivering dog obedience training to both pet owners and current and prospective competitors... We feel that other clubs may share our concerns, and hence we have opened this workshop to all clubs and other interested parties.”

The history of the Canine Obedience Club of Townsville Inc. is that of many other clubs – teaching obedience using methods that are now considered harsh, with military-style marching up and down the paddock.

Trainee Instructors were taught the same methods by those who taught them. It was what was available at the time and it was what we knew.

However, a few years ago many clubs became more aware of more positive training methods and we too started to transition to this style using toys and food rewards, replacing choke chains with soft collars, Martingales or Gentle Leaders. But still our intake numbers continued to decline and drop out numbers in the first 32

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A switch to force-free training methods has worked wonders for dogs and their owners in Northern Queensland

month were not improving. We were at a loss and did not know what else we could do. The email from Pine Rivers sounded like it could perhaps contain a solution.

The attached flyer with the email asked: • Are you interested in exploring some models of best practice in dog training?

• Are you concerned about the fall in the number of people engaging in competition obedience?

• Does your club lose a significant percentage of participants from your classes beyond the introductory levels?

• Do you get feedback – or does the loss of participants indicate - that the training does not really meet participants’ expectations or causes them to drop out prematurely?

• Do you have dogs attending classes that are excited about the stimulating environment but not interested in working with their handlers?

• Are you interested in finding out more about positive reinforcement training and how to deliver training in this mode?

Yes! Our club was experiencing just that. I was hugely

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excited and felt that this was exactly what we needed. management officers to deliver a talk on the council’s What a shame it was in Brisbane though. Over the next local laws for responsible pet dog ownership. few months it was discussed at our club meetings and I The next step after the Train the Instructor course was was privileged to be nominated to attend. the formation of a steering committee to implement the The weekend was incredible and I returned with first course. Numerous meetings, emails and many hours glowing reports of what I had seen and experienced, of reading and amending the Train at Home Guide were recommending that we had trainer Debra Millikan despent in the lead up to the first course. The club was exliver the same workshop in Townsville and extend invitremely grateful and appreciative that Debra allowed us tations to all northern clubs to attend. However, I found access to the same training guide and associated paperit difficult to convince the club to do so and nothing had work used by the Canine Behavioral School in Adelaide happened six months on. Finally, in February 2013, the where she was Head Instructor. decision was made to host our own workshop on 29 - 30 The willingness to share an established program was June, 2013. Around 20 people attended from the Ather- instrumental in our being able to have the course up and ton, Cairns, Townsville and Gladstone clubs and all were running as quickly as we did. We printed and distributed impressed and motivated by Debra’s passion in the same new flyers across town, updated our website, posted new way I was by the end of the weekend. information on Facebook and announced our first Pet From there our club had to make the decision Dog Training course, commencing 4 February, 2014 in the whether to implement Debra’s Pet Dog Training, focusing local newspaper. Our expectations were exceeded with solely on using positive reward-based methods, or connearly 60 people attending but due to limitations on intinue with our current system. Understandably the club structor numbers we could only accept 47. Those who was hesitant in moving out of its comfort zone from missed out were offered guaranteed places in the second something we knew even if it was not working. It was course starting in April. not until November 2013, after much discussion, we deAt the end of our first course we were thrilled to see cided to go ahead and Debra was invited back for a sec- a retention rate of 74.5 percent, with 62 percent being ond workshop in January 2014 to deliver a Train the upgraded to the next level, 12.5 percent confirmed to reInstructor course. peat and 25.5 percent not completing the course. Some Townsville is quite tropical in the middle of summer of the reasons behind this increased retention rate inand we were concerned about finding a venue that ofclude: fered an air-conditioned room for the course, as well as • Change of course content being more relevant a large shady area for the dogs to settle comfortably for pet dog owners while waiting for the practical part of the course. We • Change of class set-up from lines of marching were fortunate that the Townsville City Council Local dog owners became interested in what we were doing and responded well to offered the club the use of Reid Park free of the change of training class charge. Two Councillors, Sam Cox and Tony content and format Parsons, came and met Debra and a group of club members and instructors prior to the workshop, providing Debra the perfect opportunity to discuss Pet Dog Training and the benefits of providing guardians with a basic understanding of dog behavior and handling skills. This increases the likelihood for dogs to stay in the one home rather than be abandoned, lessening the strain placed on council and privately run animal shelters.

Through consultation with the council we also included a 20-minute session for animal BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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up and down the park to being seated in a semi-circle • Atmosphere during classes was more relaxed and happy as guardians and dogs learned focusing and calming skills • Weekly email contact with guardians with overviews of what was taught in class and advice on how to overcome problems Guardians who graduated to Class 2 were to continue with a mix of Pet Dog Training exercises, including the introduction of clickers and more formal obedience training, which could lead further to trials if desired.

On the downside, we lost four instructors who were not comfortable with the change to Pet Dog Training and this has restricted the intake of our second course. Our challenge now is to find volunteers who are willing to become Trainee Instructors so that we can cope with the influx of students. In the midst of all of this being organized and implemented, our local library invited the club to set up a static display from 18-31 May, 2014. Our focus was on the new Pet Dog Training course, as well as our other club activities: obedience, agility and tracking trials. Debra Millikan kindly provided a list of suitable books on behavior and training and the library was to endeavor to purchase and display some of them.

The last six - eight months have been intense to say the least. We are very thankful and grateful for the support and knowledge Debra Millikan has imparted for us

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to take this new approach to training.

It is with great hope and expectations for the remainder of 2014 and years to come that this will breathe new life into the club and, even more importantly, see a greater number of dogs stay in one home for their entire lifetime. n

The new approach to training will help keep more dogs in homes

Diane MacIntyre is a volunteer Instructor and Life Member of the Canine Obedience Club of Townsville Inc (COCT). She was the North Queensland representative for the State-wide movement R.O.A.D.S (Rights of All Dogs) to have mixed breed or non-papered purebreds in Queensland recognized for their achievements in the trial ring. Her current focus is on delivering Pet Dog Training courses to dog owners in Townsville. See also COCT Inc on Facebook.

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Creating Languages

Morag Heirs outlines how to best accommodate deaf and/or visually impaired dogs in training classes

he second part of our series exploring the world of living with and training deaf/visually-impaired dogs focuses on how we can set up the class environment. Many members teach classes and, with the growing awareness that deafness/blindness need no longer be a death sentence for pups, it seems likely that we will all experience the joy of working with these special dogs. Some of the ideas outlined here should be familiar as best practice for any training class, while others are more targeted toward enabling dogs with impairments to participate fully.

Knowledge Is Power!

Hopefully you will know in advance that your new student dog is deaf based on a pre-class questionnaire or assessment. If you have not previously worked with a deaf dog, please do use the resource list compiled at the end of this article, and contact the Deaf Dog Network (UK) or DDEAF (USA) to see if there are any trainers willing to give you a head start. The owners may, of course, have plenty of experience but knowledge is always evolving and it is helpful to make sure that we, as trainers, are up-to-date and ready to help.

If, for whatever reason, you do not feel comfortable or able to work with a deaf dog and his handler, please do provide contact options for other trainers and the various support groups. While I appreciate that it may be out of your comfort zone, it is crucial that we do not leave these brave handlers without a way forwards.

Lines of Communication

It may be advisable to organize a brief 1-2-1 session with the deaf dog and handler. You need to make sure that they have a clear reward signal in place, similar to a clicker and described in the previous article (BARKS from the Guild, April 2014, page 30).

Once the new handler has a clear reward signal for the deaf dog, following the class exercises should be much easier. Do remember that the deaf dog handler

Forrest the Great Dane during a training session: working with a deaf dog opens up new lines of communication

may need some help with the timing and placement of their ‘signalling’ hand. They may not automatically realize that your instructions to “click” also mean they need to “flash” their hand and so on.

Canine Interactions

It is worth reminding everyone in the class that the completely deaf dog will often be unaware of an approaching dog. Deaf dogs often miss the very quiet rumbling warnings from hearing dogs when they are not accompanied by overt body language changes, so they might need a little help from their handlers to move away.

The deaf dog handler is equally responsible for respecting the space of other dogs (including outside the class, so not using the deafness as an excuse for a dog without a recall!).

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Perhaps the main additional concern for the blind or visually-impaired dog will be the physical layout. If your venue is disabled-friendly for humans then the chances are the entrance will be suitable for a visually impaired dog too. The handler is likely to have specific cues that tell the dog when to step up or down as needed.

Do also check around your teaching area. If you use overturned tables or chairs to create barriers, are these potentially in the way for a bind dog? What about protruding edges, open doors or bookcases? Dogs with restricted vision are usually very good at learning their way around familiar environments so try not to change your training layout unnecessarily in the first few classes. It is worth asking the owner if they normally use a safety cane/halo (see here for images) or if they scent key surfaces in their home.

A Key Exercise

This is one of my favorite exercises for any dog regardless of disability or other challenge. It is adapted from the methods used by Pamela Dennison and Leslie McDevitt and includes elements of Leslie’s Take A Break game.

This exercise explicitly asks handlers to avoid calling the dog’s name (or tapping them if deaf), to resist the temptation to tug on the leash or shuffle their feet or to make kissy noises. If the dog chooses to re-orient to the handler or even indicate with an ear flick that their presence has been noted, then the handler clicks and treats.

For the deaf dog this may require moving your hand Deaf dogs must learn to orient to their handler

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round into the field of vision or making sure that the flash of light falls where it can be seen. For the visuallyimpaired dog you can reward any orientation back to the handler. The key to this exercise is the dog being on leash (to prevent too much wandering off and self rewarding behavior) and the handler rewarding any effort on the part of the dog to check in. The handler is NOT trying to get the dog’s attention. Rather the dog is responsible for making the effort to check in and gain rewards. This exercise is crucial in the early stages of teaching a deaf dog to orient to his human.

Since we have very few ways of attracting our deaf dog’s attention once he is out of touching range, especially if he is facing away from us, it is vital that the dog has a pre-trained behavior to seek out the handler. Once the dog has received his reward, the handler steps away or otherwise allows the dog to go back to sniffing around in a limited area (probably using a leash). The handler then waits for the dog to choose to re-orient.

Problem Solving 101

Some deaf and/or visually-impaired dogs can be pretty vocal especially when excited, confused or frustrated. As discussed previously these dogs certainly do bark and most have a range of tones rather than a single inexpressive voice as might be expected. It can sound different from a hearing dog however and some hearing dogs may be bothered by the loud volume.

As with a regular class, making sure the handlers are prepared for prompt interruption if needed (showering small treats on the floor often distracts from the barking and allows the start of a scenting game instead) and reminding all owners to reward their dogs for not joining in with any barking should help.

Physically standing in the line of sight for a deaf dog will sometimes help him to re-orient back to the handler. A well-known physical touch cue for deaf or visually-impaired dogs can also be a useful tool. As usual, prevention is better than cure so do make sure the dog is coping in the environment and has enough to do during any talking sections of the lesson. Although not exclusive to deaf/visually-impaired

dogs, handlers can feel even more helpless when confronted with a dog that simply does not want to know he is on the end of the leash. Handlers may feel embarrassed and that the task is impossible because of the physical disabilities of their dog.

The following suggested methods work very well for hearing/seeing dogs also and this allows the tutor to have the whole group work on an exercise without having to single a particular team out.

The dog may simply never have learned to pay attention to a handler, or he may find that the vibrations/echoes/sounds of the training environment overwhelm his senses. Experience with partially deaf/partially blind dogs in our classes suggests that they are sensitive to both the vibrations and low-level noises in the hall which handlers may not be noticing.

Basic desensitization and counter conditioning when, for example, the other dogs bark may be sufficient to help to settle the distracted deaf/visually-impaired dog. It is also worth considering what the deaf dog will be able to see during a class. If you as the trainer tend to use big hand and arm movements when explaining an exercise, then the deaf dog is likely to be distracted by this when

RESOURCES

* The Deaf Dog Education Action Fund (DDEAF) is very accessible and sells bandanas to alert people to a dog’s deafness. * Deaf Dog Network (DDN) and its Facebook page both include a collection of videos of teaching signs. * Barry Eaton Hear Hear (2005) is one of the best available books on living with and training a deaf dog, most easily available direct here. * An online sign language dictionary is good for getting ideas for signs and seeing the visual of how to move your hands. Morag Heirs’ favorite can be found at ALSpro.com. * Basic Sign Language is a leaflet written for the Association of Pet Behavior Counsellors (APBC) by Morag Heirs. * The Deaf Dogs Manifesto is a comprehensive and frequently updated collection of information and discussion about all things relating to deaf dogs. * Blind Dog Information here. * Simple summary of living with a blind dog here. * Facebook page for Blind Dog Rescue UK

CANINE

facing you.

People use their hands when talking more often than we expect and this too can be a source of distraction to the deaf dog, who is busy try- Bonnie the Jack Russell terrier practising recall. ing to Deaf dogs must have a work out pre-trained behavior to what the seek out their handler handler is saying.

The classic settle mat exercise can provide a great way of grounding the distracted dog and giving him an anchor point. Just remember that however you normally teach the exercise, for the deaf dog it is more important to have a distinctive hand signal. For the blind or visually-impaired dog, using a scented mat can be a life saver - although I have also used a quietly ticking alarm clock to help them to orient. If using scented oils, make sure they are on the underside of a porous mat rather than where they will be licked and use VERY little – a dog’s sense of smell is incredible compared to ours and we do not want to put him off by using a strong or unpleasant scent.

Pattern games, as developed by Leslie McDevitt, are an excellent way of creating structure, focus and predictability in the environment for any dogs and will be discussed in more detail in future articles. There is also a DVD and several YouTube videos available that outline the stages for hearing and seeing dogs. n Morag Heirs PhD MSc MA(SocSci)(Hons) PGCAP Human and Canine Remedial Massage Therapist is a Companion Animal Behavior Counselor who runs Well Connected Canine in York, UK. She works with deaf and blind dogs professionally, provides training and support for the Deaf Dog Network and is the behaviorist for Sheffield Animal Centre (RSPCA) and York & District RSPCA branches in the UK.

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Actions Speak Louder than Words

Louise Stapleton-Frappell is tired of hearing that the so-called bully breeds are different and need to be trained using force. She explains here why their owners should instead be the best ambassadors possible for their breed

unning Jambo’s Facebook page has brought me into contact with a lot of people who are passionate about the so-called bully breeds and want to see an end to Breed Specific Legislation (BSL). All these people (and their pages) have one thing in common: they believe the ‘bullies’ are unfairly discriminated against, not only by legislation but also by the general public.

However, it seems quite contradictory to me Jambo (top left) is the ultimate that, although all these in- ambassador for his breed yet many ‘bully’ owners are still dividuals and pages look against force-free training to convince the general public that the bullies are not to be feared, are not inherently dangerous and are in fact just like other dogs, they also believe they need to be trained with a “firmer hand.” I have lost count of the number of times I have seen these very people (and sadly, I include rescue shelters) talk about the bullies needing a certain kind of owner, one who will be able to be an effective “pack leader” and not let their dog “take charge.”

I find it very difficult to understand how someone can say these dogs are no different to other dogs but to then say they need to be trained differently. They seem to believe that, although positive reinforcement training may well work for some breeds, it will not work with the bullies. One post will show a picture of a bully giving kisses and the next will show a picture of one wearing a prong collar. One post will be a story about an amazing pit bull therapy dog and the next will be advising the writer’s followers to make sure they “show their dog who is boss.”

I was absolutely stunned when an article I had

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posted, which explained why prong and e-collars should not be used, actually received comments from people who said they were “sad” and “disappointed” to read this.

They believed that thousands of dogs’ lives had been saved by rescue shelters using these tools to change the aggressive behavior of dogs in their care and that, without the use of prong and shockcollars, these same dogs would not have survived.

People said they were “disappointed” and “angry” that I was saying such collars had no place

in training.

These are very strong words and very strong opinions. Unfortunately, despite the fact that Jambo’s achievements show just what can be accomplished without the use of these punitive tools, many individuals could not or would not be convinced. What amazed me the most was that they were not even willing to listen to reasoning. One individual actually commented that she could not understand how I could say that prong collars or e-collars were a “punishment.” I explained that the only reason these so-called training tools might appear to “work” is because the dog stops doing what he is doing - for example pulling on the leash or lunging - in order to avoid the prong collar being jabbed into his neck or a shock being received, and that they might well stop a behavior - but at what price to the dog’s physical and mental well-being? Many individuals were so offended by what I was saying they decided to unfollow Jambo’s page! I was absolutely flabbergasted that they would rather continue treating their dogs in this way

than even listen to an argument for training without force.

The pack leader mentality is, unfortunately, so ingrained in some people’s minds that they cannot even consider the possibility that it could be wrong! How do we get through to these people when there are still shows on the television with thousands, if not millions, of fans that regularly feature dogs being alpha-rolled, choked, shocked, kicked, prodded, poked and sprayed?

How do we demonstrate that, in order to successfully advocate for the bullies and against breed discriminatory legislation, people really do need to stop saying that you have to be a certain sort of person to ‘own’ one of these dogs? They need to stop propagating the myth that these dogs can only be trained using force. They need to stop saying that you need to be a pack leader. They need to stop abusing the very dogs that they are advocating for.

How can they expect to convince not only the general public but also legislators that the bullies should not be treated differently to other dogs if they themselves continue to say that they need a different method of training?

I do not doubt that these people want the absolute best for their dogs but they need to realize that what they are doing to them on a daily basis is not only detrimental to their pet’s well-being, it is also propagating the myth that the bully breeds are indeed different to other dogs. Their treatment of these dogs actually facilitates legislation against them. Not only that, but these punitive training methods and tools could also turn out to be the very reason their dog bites back.

So how do we convince the general public and the powers that be that bullies should not be discriminated against? How can we convince people they do not need to use force to train their best friend? How can we be the best ambassadors possible?

I believe the only way we are going to do it is through actions. We need to show everyone just what our dogs are capable of when they are trained with rewards and not force. We can write as many articles as we want (and yes, there will be people who listen) but, as the saying goes, the proof is in the pudding. Let our actions and those of our dogs be the pudding. There are disc dogs, agility dogs, Flyball dogs, obedience dogs, trick dogs, service dogs, therapy dogs, police dogs, search and rescue dogs and dock dogs who all happen to be bullies and who have been taught using positive reinforcement.

COMMENT

There are also lots of amazing family pets freely offering kisses, cuddles and good behavior, all of whom have been trained without force.

My beautiful boy, Jambo, is the first Staffordshire bull terrier to be a trick dog champion (click here to watch his Trick Dog Champion video). He achieved this title at just 16 months old and I did not need to use a prong collar or give him any electric shocks. I managed to teach him all the behaviors using tiny pieces of food, a tug toy, a boomer ball and lots of love, patience and consistency.

The more people see and hear about these dogs, who I believe are a testament to force-free training methods, then the more people will be convinced that what they are already saying is true – that the bully breeds are no different to other dogs. They are not to be feared. They are not inherently dangerous. They are, in fact, just like other dogs and can be trained in the same way - without fear, force or intimidation.

How do I believe you can be the best ambassador possible for the bullies? Show people that they are not any different to other dogs in the way that you train them. Do not post pictures of these dogs wearing prong collars or shock-collars. Do not post articles about socalled trainers who use punitive (and abusive) methods of training. Show everyone that there is absolutely no need to use punishment when you can use rewards. Celebrate the achievements of all those dogs that have been trained using rewards. Share training articles and videos that show people how they can effectively train their dog without being a “pack-leader.” Train your own dog without force. Show your friends and neighbors what an amazing dog he is. Let your actions and your dog’s actions speak for themselves. Maybe we need to stop telling people what they should not do and show them what we can do. The proof is in the pudding after all. n The Comment section is an opportunity for you to vent your opinion. If you would like to contribute, please send in your thoughts to: barkseditor@petprofessionalguild.com.

Louise Stapleton-Frappell is a CTDI (through Do More With Your Dog) and holds Force-free Instructor Certification from In The Doghouse DTC (Nando Brown). She is also currently doing the Clicker Trainer Super Trainer Course with Kay Laurence. Her blog can be found here and Jambo has his very own Facebook page.

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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MUSINGS

A Miniature Puppet Master Inspired by the addition of tiny Bentley to the household, Bob McMillan ponders the countless theories surrounding dogs and their behavior

Bentley may be small in stature but his impact on the McMillan household has been enormous

I

’d heard about dogs like Bentley—manipulative, ready to take over the house and quite likely the entire block, a mastermind who bends all other dogs to his will. Bentley was my first chance to observe a Svengali of the dog world in his native habitat, which in this case was in my lap in my own home, looking up at me with huge, sincere, moist brown eyes. The little guy really had me, until a better lap came along and I watched him work his mojo on another sap.

It took me a while to understand Bentley. He came to us with two others rescued by my daughter, who moved in after a job layoff. We already had two Scottish deerhounds and a wolfhound, so we were now a house of six dogs and two testy cats. The floor squirmed with fur.

In the chaos, Bentley kept to the fringes and quietly studied the situation. He’s a dapper little guy with a Chihuahua face on a sleek hound body, easy to lose in the shuffle of giant hounds and smaller dogs winding around their legs like eels. A clear-eyed trainer would have spotted Bentley as the dog who was pulling

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the strings right away, but I was hanging onto the notion that dogs are cute, scruffy Disney characters, and Dopey, Sneezy, Grumpy, Doc and Sleepy were falling fast under the sway of Fagin, the puppet master.

One of the rescues, Memphis, who was a resource hoarder, had a kennel in the corner where he felt more secure with the other dogs. The kennel was packed with rare treasures—old socks, odd shoes, dish towels and, from the way Memphis growled at anyone who merely glanced at his stuff, maybe a piece of the True Cross and the Holy Grail. I saw it one day out of the corner of my eye and at the time it barely registered. That’s how subtle Bentley was. While Memphis was in his den gleefully counting doubloons, Bentley crept right in, inspected his food bowl and crept back out with a sock.

Fur did not fly. There were no yowls or bloodletting.

Bentley just went in, looked Memphis in the eye and took his sock. I saw it happen a couple more times before my daughter rescued us from her rescues.

A week later, my daughter brought Bentley back be-

cause he was a bad influence on her other two dogs. Secretly, I was pleased because Bentley had become a great lap companion at night when we watched TV. He molded himself to my lap, wallowed and sighed with enthusiasm and fit a lot more comfortably than Finn, my 140 lb. wolfhound. In fact, I noticed that my wolfhound wouldn’t fit at all on the couch with Bentley because Bentley had idly stretched out his foot across the last cushion.

At this point we were down to three dogs, so Bentley had less camouflage. I noticed that it was Bentley who called the dogs to their daily songfest. That used to be Finn’s role, but 25 lb. Bentley was strutting up to the wolfhound, giving him a yip and Finn yowled on cue.

Sully, our beagle mix, chimed in and belted it out. The walls rocked until Bentley cut them off and sashayed back to his cushion perch.

Bentley was always the first to go into the back yard and the first to be let back in. The other two deferred to him. Bentley was controlling access to various rooms by where he chose to lay. The wolfhound, who was 10 times his size, would not step over him. Sully fidgeted and whined, stuck in the back room until I rousted Bentley. And he was starting to block me, too, sitting squarely in my path, looking up intently, apparently trying to reach into my mind and flip switches. He was trying to herd me. There isn’t a lot of room in my house for herding. I stepped over the little guy and went on.

But it was becoming clearer that a household coup was taking shape. A bloodless one.

Bentley appeared to be sweet little guy, agreeable and eager to please. He never showed his fangs.

He rarely raised his voice. But he seemed to be speaking to the other dogs with glances and subtle audacity. He discretely took what he wanted. No one challenged

MUSINGS

little Bentley.

That’s one view of Bentley. Of course, it’s shamelessly anthropomorphic. You can pretend dogs are just kids in shag suits but you can’t count on it if you want to actually understand them. True, dogs have brain structures remarkably similar to our own. Scans show the emotional centers of their brains light up in roughly the same way ours do. Dogs feel and they think. They have scored at least as high as human toddlers on intelligence tests. But dogs are not Homo sapiens. One difference: the sector of their brain devoted to the sense of smell is vastly larger than our own. They can track a scent into last week. Eyesight is our first sense. Dogs experience their world in ways that are different and possibly alien to us. Who can reliably say what dogs are feeling, much less ascribe motives?

There is another view of dogs that is popular with those who do not like to credit dogs with having higher emotions. It is that dogs attached themselves to human populations at least 30,000 years ago, have honed their act and the ones who made evolution’s cut are keenly adroit at reading the signs and manipulating our emotions. They are the ‘perfect parasite.’ They study our body language and parse our vocal tones. They are consummate actors, knowing when to cringe, when to smile and wiggle and when to look adoringly into our eyes to punch our emotional buttons. They play us and they play us well. What are they really feeling? They’re not saying. They are dogs. History’s greatest con artists. I see

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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MUSINGS

ways in which Bentley certainly fits their theory.

There are at least 50 million dogs in the United States alone. The wolf, the noble savage who hung tough and went his own wild way, numbers fewer than 150,000 worldwide. Dogs cost us $7 billion in vet bills and $5 billion in food annually and they have done pretty well for themselves on the evolutionary scoreboard. They didn’t do it alone. We are the ones with the opposable thumbs.

We drive them to the doggy spa, take them to the beach, open their cans of gourmet food, pick out those adorable dog hoodies, trim their nails and sometimes even paint them. If an alien studying our society asked to meet with our leaders, it might not mean us.

The dominant dog theory asserts that dogs thrive on being in charge. Bentley certainly thrives on being in charge. That theory’s been roundly refuted, even by the wolf expert who inadvertently helped make it part of our popular culture in 1970. L. David Mech has since asked his publisher to stop printing The Wolf: Ecology and Behavior of an Endangered Species because a generation of dog trainers applied its flawed findings to dogs with disastrous results. Mech has since found that even wolf packs don’t have ‘alphas’ or ‘dominant’ members who fight their way to the top and stay there with brute force.

They are family units with a mother and father. Dogs are not wolves. They have evolved separately with humans with completely different group dynamics.

Unfortunately, many dog trainers and dog owners never got the memo. They continue to watch dogs for

Bentley, like most dogs, is a master of adaptation and resourcefulness 42

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signs of mutiny. The human must be the ‘alpha dog’ and keep Fido in his place. Even if it means shock collars and rough treatment. Here’s another dog statistic: American insurance companies pay out $250 million in claims annually for the 800,000 people bitten badly enough to need medical care. Fearful dogs bite and force makes fearful dogs.

Whatever Bentley is, whoever he really is at night when he kicks his shoes off and lets down his hair, he has made me rethink dogs. He’s forced me to push deeper into my understanding of dogs. Bentley is not the dog I would have chosen. I prefer giant hounds, but every rescue who has come into my home has broadened my view of and my compassion for dogs. I recommend the experience for every dog lover. But what model should I use in trying to understand little Bentley?

He’s not a cartoon character or Rin-Tin-Tin. He will never rescue me from a well or call 911 if I am trapped in the mine shaft. He’s a dog, not a Hollywood character.

I do not completely buy the evolutionary parasite theory. In my experience, dogs are remarkably flexible.

Made by nature to run, sniff, forage and run in the wild, they increasingly live in urban environments, apartments or homes with tiny yards. To their keen senses, it must be utter chaos and stressful. Yet mostly, they thrive, because like no other animal, they’re attuned to their humans so keenly that we swear they sometimes read our minds.

The most helpful framework I’ve found for viewing my dogs is backed by a 2013 study by Vetmeduni's Messerli Research Institute of the University of Veterinary Medicine in Vienna, Austria. It found that the most effective, powerful bond between a dog and its owner is like that between a parent and its child. Whenever my head is swimming from theories on the nature of the dog, I fall back on this. It cuts to the quick.

Bentley is a master at managing his resources. If he were human, we would admire his life skills. He is not part of a global dog cabal bent on domination.

He is simply highly intelligent and

knows how to get what he needs.

He is also completely at my mercy for everything from food to access to the yard or rides in the car. He depends on Bentley is gifted the kindat expressing ness of huhimself mans. In fact, he ended up in rescue three times because he suffered separation anxiety. He ate a bathroom once while the owner was away. Bentley clearly knows who is in control. Are his displays of affection really what they seem? Does he really think I am the best thing ever, or

MUSINGS

only until someone else comes along with a can opener and good motor skills? Sure, I think he means it. At least, as much as we do when we laugh and slap our knees at the boss’s bad jokes. Dogs are social animals, just like us. Civility greases the wheels.

Respect and trust come with time, which is where Bentley and I are now. He listens to me intently. I listen to him, too. Luckily, he is gifted at expressing himself to dull-witted humans. He pokes me when he wants my attention. He runs to the door and sits when he wants out.

His eyes drift lazily and longingly to the other dogs’ food bowls when he wants more food—theirs. We’re doing mat work, helping him with positive training to relax and turn the reins over to me more. We go for rides and walks. I try to meet all his needs, including letting him lay across me at night on the couch while we watch TV. I do still insist on hanging onto the remote. n Bob McMillan is a newspaper editor and columnist who lives in the foothills of Middle Tennessee with his Irish wolfhound, several rescues and a remarkably tolerant cat.

Redstone Media Group, in partnership with the Pet Professional Guild (PPG) is delighted to announce that all PPG members are now eligible for 50% OFF ($12 for six issues) a one-year subscription to Animal Wellness or Equine Wellness magazines.

“We all want our dogs to enjoy a long healthy life,” says Animal Wellness Publisher Tim Hockley, and Animal Wellness magazine is the #1 publication devoted to this cause. Learn about the vital four pillars to wellness, discover the secrets to longevity, revitalize your bond and learn from the world leading natural health experts.

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For people who are serious about their dogs!

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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FELINE

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Getting It Right First Time

Cats are wonderful companions but potential owners need to be sure they ask themselves all the hard questions before going ahead with adoption, says Marilyn Krieger

ike any pet, cats enhance lives and make a house a home. They excel at helping their people unwind after a stressful day.

There is nothing quite as comforting as having a cat serenely napping nearby.

Although cats bring joy and are great companions, they are a lifetime commitment. Think seriously before adopting—it should not be a spur of the moment decision. Make sure that you can support and provide the cat a loving, safe environment for his or her whole life. Before making the decision to share your home with a cat (or cats), do the homework Contented cats can help their owners unwind after a stressful day and ask yourself the tough questions.

Do you have the time to spend with a cat? Cats Can you afford to take care of a cat? Cats need cannot be left alone to fend for themselves. In addition more than love and a warm place to sleep. In addition to to being fed at least twice a day and provided fresh the expenses of high quality cat food and cat furniture, water, litter boxes have to be scooped daily. Cats are also the yearly vet checks, teeth cleanings and unexpected social animals and need quality time interacting with visits to the vet quickly tax the wallet. Although mandatheir people every day. The together time can be filled tory health visits can be costly, several options are availwith play, grooming and cuddle sessions. Cats left alone able that can help pay the bills. Pet health insurance for hours day in and day out without the benefit of a plans can help decrease the bills. Monthly premiums and companion can become depressed and lethargic. deductibles vary between plans and are based on the Can you handle the daily details? Cats require cat’s age, medical history and coverage. Always read the daily maintenance and friendly environments. Aside fine print when shopping for a health plan. They all have from the feeding, watering and litter box scooping, litter restrictions about what they will cover—some have box duties also entail emptying, washing and refilling the more limits than others. Another option is the Careboxes with fresh litter on a regular basis. Cats also need Credit healthcare card. CareCredit is similar to a credit to be groomed. Long-haired cats require daily grooming, card, with steep interest rates and penalties for late and but short-haired ones can get by with being groomed missed payments. every few days. Felines instinctively have to scratch ob44

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

FELINE jects. Although they can be easily trained to scratch appropriate furniture, they might occasionally scratch the carpet or sofa. Declawing is not an option. Living with cats means making the environment cat-friendly. They need to be equipped with scratching posts, cat trees, beds and toys.

Are cats allowed where you live? Some housing situations are not great for cats. If you are renting, make sure that you have a signed agreement that states you can have a cat as a roommate. These agreements are mandatory. Stuff happens, buildings change hands and the new owners may not like cats. Having a signed agreement protects you, assuring that you or your cat will not be evicted. If you live with other people, make sure that they all approve of their new roomie.

Are there other resident animals? Other household animals should always be considered first before adopting another animal. Bringing home a cat can be problematic and potentially dangerous if the other household animals have a history of not getting along with cats. Do not adopt cats if there are dogs who chase or are aggressive to cats. Dogs in the home should never chase or attempt to harm cats. Often birds are overlooked. If you live with birds, ensure their safety by keeping them in areas that are inaccessible to cats. Cages may not be enough because some birds become stressed when cats are in the same vicinity as they are.

Are you or anyone you live with allergic to cats?

Cats sometimes end up in shelters because someone in the household is allergic to them. Before adopting, make sure that you and everyone you live with do not have allergic reactions when around cats.

Bringing home a new cat should not be a spur of the moment, emotional event. Along with the cuteness and companionship, comes responsibility. Ask the hard questions and examine all possible scenarios before adopting.

You are not adopting just a cat, you are bringing home a new family member. n Marilyn Krieger, Certified Cat Behavior Consultant and owner of The Cat Coach LLCÂŽ, solves cat behavior problems nationally and internationally through on-site, phone and Skype consultations. She also writes behavior columns for Catster and Cat Fancy Magazine, and is a frequent guest on television and radio.

Cats can easily be trained to scratch in appropriate places, such as this cat tree

A Note on Onychectomy Declawing, or onychectomy, is the amputation of the last digital bone, including the nail bed and claw, on each front toe. If the surgery is performed correctly and the entire nail bed is removed, the claw cannot regrow and the procedure is considered a permanent ‘solution.’ The surgery involves the risk of anesthetization, excessive bleeding and postoperative complications, including infection, and is accompanied by severe pain that may last from several days to much longer unless appropriate analgesia is provided.

The ASPCA is strongly opposed to declawing cats for the convenience of their guardians.

Source: ASPCA BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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A

A Lesson in Tolerance

Susan Nilson presents Ruby, an adult cat who developed a long-standing aversion to the litter tray as the result of a short-term medical condition

n estimated 40 - 75 percent of all cats that present with behavioral symptoms have some kind of elimination disorder, making it the most commonly reported feline behavior problem of all (Source: Overall, K. (1997): Feline Elimination Disorders in Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals Mosby Inc) and the most common reason cats are abandoned or surrendered to shelters.

In this particular case, nine-year-old Ruby had started urinating around the house for no apparent reason.

Ruby was an indoor spayed female domestic short-hair who lived in a four-cat household comprising her male sibling and two much younger cats, one male and one female. Nothing major had occurred in terms of environmental changes and she had always been tolerant of the younger cats if not overtly friendly.

These particular owners had adopted Ruby with her brother from a rescue at the age of two years old and had already moved house with them three times without Ruby getting particularly stressed. She was always the intrepid, independent one they told me. She kept herself to herself and nothing really fazed her. They had always followed the rule of thumb and had a litter tray for each cat plus an extra one, and had not experienced any issues like this previously. So they took Ruby to the vet for a check-up, which confirmed she had developed oxalate crystals in her bladder. These had caused urination to be painful, a pain that Ruby had apparently begun to associate with using the litter tray before her owners had realized what was going on. So, she started eliminating elsewhere - on the curtains, sofa, furniture and carpets - to try to avoid this unpleasant experience. At its height, the behavior was occurring several times a day.

As soon as the clinical diagnosis was received, Ruby was placed on a special diet to dissolve the crystals and she

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started to recover. The discomfort gradually went away and she was given a clean bill of health. However, her elimination habits did not change. It is probable by this stage that Ruby had 'learned' using the litter tray was a painful experience to be avoided at all costs. Conversely, given that the pain had disappeared relatively soon after she had embarked on the special diet, her more recent strategy of urinating outside the litter tray did not have quite the same unpleasant association.

Just to complicate matters, the relationship between the two male cats in the house deteriorated rapidly around this time as the younger male reached social maturity. This lead to some aggressive behavior and even some fighting. Ruby was very anxious about this situation as, if the young male could not find her brother - to whom she was very bonded - he would victimize her instead. So she resorted to a behavior that had brought her relief in the past - urinating around the house. She may also have been trying to assert herself and make herself feel more secure in the multi-cat household by marking objects with her scent. Her owners rarely – if ever - saw her performing the behavior and were unable Escalating tensions between certain felines in the home exacerbated Ruby’s behavior problem (note curtains tied above the ground to avoid temptation)

to pinpoint specific triggers or contexts - aside from Ruby’s primary emotional state, which at the time was one of anxiety. She favored no specific spot, although curtains and furniture were the most commonly sought out. She had also managed to deposit large quantities of urine against the owners’ old CPU, which was on the floor under the desk in their home office, causing it to rust quite badly. The urine had dripped down underneath and soaked into the carpet. It wasn’t pretty. Nevertheless, the owners were endlessly tolerant and dutifully went round cleaning thoroughly whenever they found Ruby’s latest offerings.

The treatment plan involved separating the warring felines at all times they could not be supervised, ensuring they were all able to relax without fear of being attacked or feeling compelled to attack. The aim was to remove stress, anxiety and fear and elevate Ruby’s overall mood state. When the cats were permitted access to each other, it was always at a safe distance and focused on positive events, such as feeding or attention from the owners. Calm behavior was rewarded and any signs of aggressive body language or behavior were interrupted and redirected onto a cat toy before they could make any real progress. Cats can be masters of both overt and covert aggression and the owners were schooled in watching closely for all signs, such as staring, dilated pupils, piloerection, lowered slashing tail and flattened ears, as well as the more vocal growling and hissing. We also added in more play time and exercise to give Ruby some extra highlights to her day to help improve her overall mood state while simultaneously reducing her anxiety levels. We discussed confinement while Ruby could not be supervised but, as the owners were unenthusiastic, we continued to allow her free range.

In addition, we addressed more practical considerations. Curtains were tied up off the floor, sofa corners were covered in transparent plastic, rugs removed, carpets professionally cleaned etc. Unsurprisingly, the owners were desperate to sort out the problem so we took a multi-faceted, holistic approach. As such, litter trays were placed in popular elimination areas (unpleasant but only temporary). Dishes of dry food were placed in areas where a litter tray was not practical. The aim was to restrict access to soft furnishings while providing Ruby with an acceptable alternative in the litter trays in

FELINE

Ruby associated urinating in her litter tray with a painful experience, so started avoiding it

her favored locations, as well as anticipating that she would steer clear of urinating in areas where she was likely to eat. Thorough cleaning of all soiled areas was essential, using a biological detergent to break down the fatty proteins in the urine that a cat would otherwise still be able to smell and be tempted to overmark.

Over a period of a number of months, the frequency of the inappropriate urination gradually started to decrease until it became occasional and then infrequent, instead of several times a day as it had been at its peak.

During this time, the owners were gradually able to remove the litter trays and dishes of food scattered around the house and put them back in more appropriate locations. Eventually all the cats were able to be together again without supervision.

Over the next few years, in times of extreme anxiety, Ruby would still occasionally urinate on the curtains, resorting to the behavior she had once learned would bring her relief. The fact that the feeling of relief is chemically addictive should never be under-estimated, and can be a contributing factor in many a behavior problem. Eventually however, after a few years and when the feline dynamics in the house had settled down again (and thanks to her owners’ unwavering patience), Ruby never performed the inappropriate behavior again. n Susan Nilson BA (Hons) DipCABT (UK) is a journalist and animal behavior consultant. Currently based in Los Angeles, CA, she sees behavior cases on an ad hoc basis, assists START Rescue with temperament assessments and is a volunteer clicker trainer at the Linda Blair Worldheart Foundation.

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A Time and a Place for Predictability Birds are intelligent, complex creatures for whom the predictable can often mean boredom. But for those with behavioral issues or little experience of a stimulating environment, predictability is key to their rehabilitation, says Lara Joseph

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very animal is an individual and their history is part of what shapes the behaviors we observe in them as they develop and grow. I am sure all of us as animal professionals wish we had the power to inform and educate each animal caretaker from the moment they take in an animal or from the moment the animal was born or hatched.

When working with a well-socialized bird that has been trained with positive consequences for requested behaviors (see photo right), I am always careful to make sure the bird is interacting with and living well independently from me as well as with me.

People who work with birds know how complex their intellect is and what a struggle it can be to keep them enriched and engaged with their environments when they are not physically with us. Personally, I believe that the more complex and intelligent the animal, the more challenging it can be for them to live with us in a captive environment. It is essential to keep their minds engaged because, if you fail to provide that enrichment, they will find their own behaviors to occupy time - and more than likely it will not be behaviors that please us. Isn’t this true for most animals we live with and care for?

I work with and train several animals in addition to birds, which keeps me on my toes, learning daily and observing behavior in its most subtle increments. Studies show that predictability can lead to boredom. I see this frequently in many animal enclosures. In the wild, polar bears travel hundreds of miles daily searching for food.

This space cannot be duplicated in captive situations and is one of the main reasons behind polar bears' abnormal repetitive behaviors, such as swimming the same patterns in the water. Many parrots fly a 40-mile radius daily searching for food, foraging, mating, raising their young and paying extreme attention to staying safe from predators. When you put that parrot in a cage with a predictable daily environment, not surprisingly, behavior issues can skyrocket.

Stagnant environments provide little opportu48

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Providing complex enrichment devices that match the level of complexity the bird can solve keeps him mentally engaged

nity for learning or enrichment. I am a big proponent of foraging, flight and the power of positive reinforcement.

I have taught all of my birds to forage for their food using foraging toys when they are not working for it. If they are not changing and learning from those amazing toys, the toys soon become predictable objects that no longer provide enriching stimuli. Consistent change with an object that can be manipulated by the bird helps create variety in the choices the bird has. The more options the bird has, the greater the control he feels he has over his environment.

At the other end of the spectrum, predictability can be one of the most effective tools you have with birds experiencing different emotions such as aggression, fear

AVIAN

Making movements predictable to an educational owl with a history of consistent flooding and force

or anxiety (see photo above). It is the same with a bird that comes from a background severely deficient in enrichment. A new toy in a cage can be a huge stressor to a bird with little to no enrichment background. If that toy stays there, then flooding is occurring. A caged bird that does not interact with his environment is a very sad case.

Even sadder is how common this is in the companion parrot home.

When I train a bird with issues such as fear, aggression or anxiety I will make my movements - or the movements of an object - predictable (see photo right).

I train a lot of birds of prey for programs for wildlife rehabilitation centers. One of the first things an owl will do before he flies away from you is to look in the direction in which he is getting ready to fly. I make my approach the same and consistent and make all my movements very predictable to the owl. I like to back off in my ap-

proach before the owl looks away. I use this same approach with any parrot I am training as well. I approach the cage the same way each time. I request the same behavior over and over, which makes the future very predictable to the bird. The predictability brings comfort and control to the bird and I am paired with this comfort and control.

After a bird begins to Lara Joseph is the feel comfortable with pre- owner of The Animal dicting his immediate fuBehavior Center LLC in ture, I ask for another Ohio. She is also the Dibehavior and slowly add in rector of Avian Training very subtle changes to the for a wildlife rehabilitaroutines I have created. tion center where she foPredictability and roucuses on removing stress tines have their place and from animal environoften they are only tempo- ments. Lara is a profesrary, a step towards a future sional member of The full of empowerment, con- Animal Behavior Mantrol and choices. This is the agement Alliance and environment I want to pro- The International Assovide to any educational ani- ciation of Avian Trainers mal representing my ethics and Educators. in training. n

Introducing new birds (left) to a bird with a history of an unenriched environment and lack of socialization BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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Horse Sense Dr. Lisel O’Dwyer explains how to safely give food treats to horses with the aid of the clicker

s dog trainers, we all come across dogs who take treats gently and those who just cannot get the hang of taking a treat without involving their teeth although, admittedly, sometimes this might be related to the type of muzzle and jaw they have. Sometimes we can just toss the treat to feed for position or encourage forward movement. It is pretty much the same with horses, although I would think tossing a treat to encourage forward moveStanding still and staying straight is an important skill for a horse ment with horses is unlikely to work in an animal with no a barrier, such as a stable door or fence (NOT electrified prey drive.

I hasten to add!) and teach the horse about touching a In some instances, such as with horses who do not target with his nose. The barrier prevents the horse from know how to take a treat from the hand with just their coming into the trainer’s space and allows the trainer to lips, we might put the treat in a special dish. Using a dish step back safely out of the horse’s reach if necessary. It introduces other practical problems though, such as how is best to bring the treat to the horse and not allow the to carry one around and have it in the right place, so we horse to move his head or body closer to the trainer to usually only do this with horses who are new to being get the treat. When the horse is being ridden, he will hand fed and/or clicker trained until they have learned need to bend his neck around to take the treat from the to take the treat calmly. trainer’s hand but will be standing still to do so.

Safety is paramount when working with large animals This is one of the key differences between giving who can knock you over, crush your toes while standing treats to horses and giving treats to dogs. With both calmly and have very strong jaws capable of crushing species we feed for position or to reinforce some other and grinding hard grains and tough dry grasses. This can behavior - but the behaviors are different. With dogs, it be a concern given that horses’ mouths are usually at the is common for the dog to come and get his treat from level of female humans’ chests or faces. Being bitten by the trainer after being clicked, which also reinforces a a horse on the breast is something I hope I will never good recall. With horses, the horse must stand still with experience! Also, many horses become excited about the his head facing forward and wait for the treat to appear treats and forget their manners because treats have not under his nose – this reinforces standing still and staying been part of their daily life. So one of the first things we straight, an important skill for a horse. teach horses is how to be polite about treat taking.

While the horse is standing facing straight ahead with The safest and easiest way to start teaching horses his head in a normal position, I present the target right about food in training is to begin with the horse behind under his nose so he cannot fail to touch it, click, re50

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horse that will not touch the treat even when it is right under his nose and will keep his head facing forward until clicked. If you prefer, you can also get the horse to move his head away from the treat, or move his whole body back a step.

Finally, when presenting a treat during training, the trainer must never allow the horse to move either his feet or his head forward into their space. The safest way to present the treat is to take a step forward toward the horse, keep your weight on that foot and stretch your arm out so that your hand reaches under the horse’s nose. This way you have 2-3 ft. of space between your body and the horse’s mouth. It also makes the horse shift his weight back slightly out of your space.

Other points to bear in mind: the way the horse takes the treat shows you how he is feeling. If he is usually gentle but then grazes the palm of your hand with his teeth you know he is tense, distracted or worried. Some horses find it difficult to pick up small crumbly treats like pellets or flat treats like carrot coins. If so change to something that is more of a lump shape or chunky (e.g. cut the carrots a bit thicker). Other horses might be the opposite and take small crumbly treats with more care than chunky ones. And one of the first rules most people learn around horses is to hold your hand flat with the palm facing upward and the skin taut, so the hand is like a plate. Do not hold the treat between thumb and forefinger to ensure avoiding any encounter with the horse’s teeth. Happy training! n One of the first rules people learn around horses is to feed with a flat hand

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move the target and replace it with the treat. The horse has not had to actually move his head more than an inch or two. I will then move the target a few inches to one side so the horse has to move his head slightly. When I remove the target (after clicking), the horse generally returns his head to the normal or straight position and that is where I feed the treat.

What usually happens is that the horse will start to try to go straight to the source of the treats (the human) rather than move away from the trainer toward the target. This is when you may need to step back out of mouth range while still presenting the target. A target on a stick about 2-3 ft. long can be helpful at this stage.

Just wait for the horse to try to touch the target again and proceed as before. This stage usually takes a few minutes (e.g. several sets of a minute or two with 10-15 reps per set), but, as we all know, it can take less time just as it may take more.

It can be helpful with some horses to start with treats they do not find particularly valuable, such as dry pellets, and then use more favored treats such as pieces of apple. Once the horse is clicker-wise and understands targeting, we start to teach the concept that, while food may be in close proximity, it is only available if there has been a click and if the horse is doing something to earn the click.

To start with, we hold a treat about a couple of feet from the horse’s nose, where he can see it. If he moves toward it, the treat disappears. Once the horse hesitates, we click and give the treat. After a few sets, you have a

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BARKS from the Guild/July2014

Dr. Lisel O’Dwyer has a background in psychology and has shared her life with a range of species since childhood. At present she has five horses, one donkey, two cats, two dogs and five chickens, all of whom are clicker trained. Currently she is becoming involved with the new horse sport of agility training (unmounted and at liberty).

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BUSINESS

A Win-Win Situation Niki Tudge details how to use conflict resolution skills to enhance your clients’ commitment and compliance Part One of this two-part article looks at understanding what conflict resolution is, how to set ground rules, the five conflict resolution styles and the big picture of conflict resolution.

“There is an old story about two girls arguing over an orange. They both wanted the single orange for themselves. They argued for hours over who should get it and why. Finally they realized that they could both win. One girl wanted the rind to make a cake and the other girl wanted to make herself orange juice.

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hy is it that many people have a negative conditioned emotional response to the word “conflict”? Why do we always assume that conflict is negative, unpleasant and a creator of all evil?

This is simply not true! As humans we are all individual and thus very different. It is when our differences come to the surface that conflict can arise. I am challenging you to switch paradigms and start thinking of conflict as simply a difference in how we approach and feel about things. If you can do that, then you are off to a great start in being able to generate positive outcomes from conflict rather than believing that conflict is adversarial and aggressive. The fact that conflict exists is not a bad thing as long as we resolve it effectively. Conflict can lead to enhanced personal and professional growth.

Think about all the great relationships you can forge; business partnerships you can enhance and situations 52

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Conflict is not always a bad thing

you can resolve with your clients if you handle conflict effectively. In our industry, with our roles as consultants, trainers and caregivers, having a grasp of conflict resolution is a ‘must-have’ skill to have in our tool-kit.

So let’s view conflict as just that, an opportunity to generate positive, collaborative solutions. If we then arm ourselves with a conflict resolution process, we have all the necessary tools we need to explore and understand our differences and use this understanding to interact with people in a more productive manner. Think about how you can enhance the life of a pet if you are better equipped to collaborate with pet owners. As Stephen Covey said, “Seek first to understand then to be understood”.

What is Conflict?

The Random House Dictionary defines conflict as: “to

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This model of win-win situations and mutual gain is always the preferred outcome for any conflict

come into collision or disagreement; be contradictory, at variance, or in opposition; clash.” Some examples of workplace conflict may be:  When a client is dissatisfied with your services or product  If an employee is upset with his/her manager who changes their schedule at the last minute  You have a difference of opinion with a client regarding training methods.

So how can these conflicts also be healthy? Think about how conflict can increase motivation and competitiveness in these situations. These types of drivers can result in greater success, whether “success” means a better process, better teamwork or more satisfaction. You just need to remember that at some point in life everyone experiences conflict. How you deal with conflict is what matters.

A common example of this from the examples above is conflict with a disenchanted client. How often do you really get the opportunity to spend quality time talking and listening to your clients? Most of our satisfied clients interface with us at the delivery of the service and then go on their merry way. When a client complains about one of your products or services it presents the ideal opportunity to spend real quality time with them. If you handle this conflict professionally you will forge a strong, long-lasting and trusting relationship with them. Client dissatisfaction can be turned around and in many cases clients who have had complaints handled successfully can become your best sales persons.

Conflict is inevitable but combat is optional – Max Lucade Conflict resolution occurs when a conflict is resolved.

There are several known models of conflict resolution and we will cover them briefly a little later. Before the conflict resolution process can begin all of the stakeholders have to agree that they want to resolve the conflict. Without this crucial commitment it will not be possible to achieve a win-win solution. As soon as all the participants have agreed that they are actively seeking resolution then it is important to remove and neutralize the negative emotions. Giving the conflict participants time to vent and work through the feelings associated with the conflict can meet this goal.

The key steps needed to facilitate such venting are: 1. Acceptance that there are negative feelings and

BUSINESS

that these feelings are normal.

2. Acknowledgement of the feelings and their root causes.

3. Identification of how individuals might resolve their feelings.

These steps can help generate ideas about the root cause of the conflict and how to resolve it.

You cannot shake hands with a clenched fist - Indira Gandhi Ground rules for any meeting are important but for conflict resolution they are imperative. Ground rules provide a meeting and communication framework that everyone agrees to operate within. How detailed the ground rules are will depend on the situation and the persons involved. Make ground rules as brief or as detailed as needed. Don’t short change this step as it is an important one. The ground rules should be developed and agreed upon by all parties involved prior to the first communication. When documenting ground rules put them into a constructive context, make them positive.

For example, rather than saying “no interruptions” you can say “we will listen to each other’s statements fully before responding”.

Meeting ground rules should be fair to both parties, easily enforceable and adjustable. At the beginning of the conflict resolution meeting give each person a copy of the ground rules and review them together. During the meeting they can constructively be referred too if one party steps outside the rules. If you are working through conflict resolution with a client then I advise that you take responsibility to manage and monitor the dialogue. Sometimes by making simple statements such as “I respect you and your opinions and I think it’s important that we keep this dialogue upbeat and constructional so we can find workable solutions” can help to keep things on track and build shared meaning.

Most people are not naturally rude, nor do they enjoy aggressive conflict. If a client takes the time and energy to complain about your business then they have shown you that they have an invested interest in correcting what they deem are mistakes. Clients who are invested are generally looking for solutions and this can help you improve your service. If you ever find yourself involved in conflict resolution where a mediator is used to help resolve the conflict, it is important that the ground rules be developed by the parties involved and not the mediaBARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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tor. The mediator’s role is to guide and mentor not to judge or rule. Sometimes they have to be politely reminded of this.

Here are a few examples of ground rules:  We will listen to each other’s statements fully before responding  We will respect and solicit the input from everyone at the table  We will work together to achieve a mutually acceptable solution  We will respect each other as individuals and therefore not engage in personal insults and attacks  We agree that we are all looking for solutions to meet the same goal Participants can use the ground rules during the conflict resolution process to monitor and modify their behaviors. The ground rules give participants an objective and logical way of addressing personal attacks and emotional issues. An example of this is “Peter, I feel like you have cut off my last several statements. We agreed at the beginning of this that we would listen to each other’s statements fully before answering. Can I request that you do that please.” Ground rules ensure a level playing field and hold everyone around the table to the same standard of behavior, they help maintain fairness and avoid bias.

Conflict Resolution Styles There are five widely accepted styles for resolving conflicts. These concepts were originally developed by Kenneth Thomas and Ralph Kilmann in the 1970s.

Although I always recommend the collaborative style of conflict resoConflict can simply lution, there may mean a difference be instances in approach when it is not the most appropriate.

For example, in an emergency the collaborative style may not reach a decision quickly enough.

It is important to under-

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stand each of the five styles so you can use them appropriately. Knowing what style to use in each situation is an important part of successful conflict resolution.

1. The Collaborating Style With the collaborating approach all parties work together to develop a win-win solution. This approach promotes assertiveness over aggressiveness or passiveness.

The collaborative style is appropriate when: • The situation is not urgent • An important decision needs to be made • The conflict involves a large number of people, or persons across different teams • Previous conflict resolution attempts have failed The collaborative style is not appropriate when: • A decision needs to be made urgently • The matter is trivial to all involved

2. The Competing Style With a competitive approach the person in conflict takes a firm stand and they compete with the other parties for power. They typically win unless they are up against someone else who is also competing. This style is seen as being very aggressive and can cause other people in the conflict resolution process to feel injured or stepped on.

The competing style is appropriate when: • A decision needs to be made quickly, such as in emergencies • An unpopular decision is being made • An individual is trying to take advantage of a situation This style is not appropriate when: • People are feeling sensitive about the conflict • The situation is not urgent • The conflict resolution process needs to build collaboration

3. The Compromising Style When using the compromising approach, each person in the conflict agrees to gives up something, they actively contribute towards the conflict resolution.

The compromising style is appropriate when: • A decision needs to be made sooner rather than later (meaning the situation is important but not urgent) • Resolving the conflict is more important than

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BUSINESS

A competitive style of conflict resolution requires taking a firm stand

having individual sides “win” • Power between people in the conflict is equal This style is not appropriate when: • A wide variety of important needs must be met across the stakeholders • The situation is extremely urgent • One person holds more power than another

4. The Accommodating Style The accommodating style is one of the most passive conflict resolution styles. When this style is in play one of the parties in the conflict gives up what they want so the other party can have what they want. In general terms this style is not very effective but it can be most appropriate in certain scenarios.

The accommodating style is appropriate when: • Maintaining the relationship between the parties is more important than winning • The issue at hand is very important to one person but not to the other This style is not appropriate when: • The issue is important to both persons • Individual accommodation will not permanently solve the problem 5. The Avoiding Style The last of the five styles is the avoiding style. This approach avoids the conflict entirely. People who use

this style tend to accept decisions without question, avoid confrontation, and abdicate difficult decisions and tasks. Avoiding is another passive approach that is typically not effective, but it does have its uses.

The avoidance style is appropriate when: • The issue is very trivial • The conflict will resolve itself on its own very soon This style is not appropriate when: • The issue is important to any of the stakeholders • The conflict will continue or get worse without attention Now we have looked at the different styles to address conflict let’s look at the entire conflict resolution process. We will discuss each of these individual steps in Part Two of this article in the next issue of BARKS. Understanding the Conflict Resolution Process Conflict can come in many forms and below you can see the conflict resolution process. This process can be used in any conflict resolution situation. This overview is how I recommend you approach and resolve conflict. Because conflict ranges in scope, seriousness and consequences both intended and unintended, you may find yourself less successful when resolving conflict only using some of these individual steps. In other situations you may use them all. There are some great individual tools within this process that can also be used in other

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situations such as the ground rules and examining root cause.

The steps in the conflict resolution process are: 1. Create an Effective Atmosphere • Neutralize participant emotions • Set agreeable ground rules • Set the time and place for the meeting 2. Create a Mutual Understanding • Identify needs for me, them and us 3. Focus on Individual and Shared Needs • Find common ground • Build positive energy and goodwill • Strengthen the partnership 4. Get to the Root Cause • Examine root causes • Create a fishbone diagram (for complex issues) • Identify opportunities for forgiveness • Identify the benefits of resolution 5. Generate Options • Generate, don't evaluate • Create mutual gain options and multiple option solutions • Dig deeper into the options 6. Build a Solution • Create criteria • Create the shortlist • Choose a solution • Build a plan Wherever two or more people come together there is bound to be conflict. To dig into this process deeper join me for a webinar on Conflict Resolution on Tuesday, 25 November, 2014 at 5 p.m. EST. This webinar will give you a seven-step conflict resolution process that can be used in whole or modified to resolve conflict disputes of any size. You will also be provided with a set of skills in solution building and finding common ground.

In the Conflict Resolution webinar you will also learn crucial conflict management skills, including dealing with anger and using the “Agreement Frame”. Dealing with conflict is important for every business no matter what the size. Conflict resolution will help you manage your personal life, your employee satisfaction and your clients’ experiences.

The webinar’s objectives include: • Learn to define what conflict and conflict resolution mean • Identify with all six phases of the conflict resolution process

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• •

Understand the five main styles of conflict resolution Know how to adapt the conflict resolution process for all types of conflicts • Learn how to break out parts of the conflict resolution process and use the individual tools to prevent conflict • Know how to use basic conflict resolution communication tools such as the agreement frame and open ended questions • Understand how to use basic anger and stress management techniques I hope to see you in November for our webinar. n Niki Tudge is the founder of the PPG, The DogSmith, a national dog training and pet-care license, and DogNostics Career College. She is also a certified people trainer, Certified Facilitator and Project Manager and has business degrees from Oxford University (UK). Her professional credentials include; CPDT-KA, NADOI – Certified, AABP- Professional Dog Trainer, AABP- Professional Dog Behavior Consultant, Diploma Animal Behavior Technology, and Diploma Canine Behavior Science & Technology. See here for more information.

BUSINESS

Thinking of Buying a Pet Business?

Rick Ingram details methods of determining what a business is worth Whether you are looking to buy a pet business or thinking of expanding your current business by buying a competitor, there are many important issues to consider. Key among these issues is how to determine the value of the business you are considering.

In this article I present a broad overview of business valuation options and will cover the details in future editions

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hatever your goals are when you are considering buying an existing business there are a few fundamentals that will help you determine whether the business is right for you and what the value of the business is. Determining what you should pay for a business can be tough, part hard-nosed financial fact, and part “school-of-hard knocks” artful intuition. But armed with a few ‘rules-of-thumb’ and a spreadsheet or two you can make sure you are getting what you are paying for and be able to approximate the potential return on your business-buying investment.

Business pros pretty much use one of, or a combination of, five basic methods for determining what a business is worth.

1. One method that can be used to determine the value of a business is to simply add up what the business assets are worth. Lenders like this method because assets are ‘real’ (vehicles, real estate, inventory etc.) and can be sold to raise cash if need be. But this method is not very effective for determining the value (to you) of a service industry business (which most pet businesses are). In fact, many seasoned business buyers will not consider assets as part of their valuation, reasoning that the only value of an asset must be reflected in the company’s income. Remember, you are most probably buying the business to increase your income and improve

your life, so unless these assets make more money for you they are of limited value.

2. A second method for valuing a business is based on how much money you would get by selling everything the company owns. Although lenders will often use this method to determine their ‘worst case’ risk, this method, like the first example, does not help you understand what the business will be worth to you.

3. Still another method bases the business value on an estimated future income using a variety of estimates and assumptions.

This method is o ot Ph k better suited © Can Stoc for hi-tech start-ups and initial public offerings (and are very often hugely optimistic) so is not useful to you in determining the value of a typical small business.

4. Yet another method bases a business’s value on a simple comparison with the selling prices of other similar businesses. Though this method can be useful if there are sufficient comparisons to use it, it is the final method I will mention that I think is the most effective in determining the value of a small pet business to you.

5. The last, and most practical, as well as most commonly used for small service businesses like a typical pet business, is to value the business based on the net

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adjusted income of the business (known as Seller’s Discretionary Earnings or SDE) and then multiplying the SDE by a factor (usually between one and three for most typical small businesses) determined by the type of business and the structure of the business.

Finding the sweet spot in the one to three factor range is where some art and experience come to play.

Generally the lower factor of one, resulting in a lower business valuation, is used when the business owner is the business. Like Doctors, Dentists, Lawyers and Accountants, Dog Trainers, Groomers and other Pet Care Professionals are often the business owners as well as the business’s technical expert, senior employee and face of the company. In other words, the owner is the business.

So why does a talented, hands-on owner lower the value of the business? Because when the owner sells and retires to sunny Florida, much of the goodwill (to be discussed in a future article), expertise and face of the company retire with the owner.

If you were to buy such a business you may find

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Rick Ingram is the Business Manager for The DogSmith. He has an undergraduate and graduate degree and a certificate in Advanced Marketing Design.

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Potential business buyers need to be sure they get what they pay for

yourself the proud owner of a very expensive customer contact list and little else.

On the other end of the spectrum are businesses that almost run themselves, have an effective, professional full-time manager in place, vigorous marketing systems and robust financial controls. You can expect to pay up to three times the SDE for a business like this that almost runs itself. Of course there is an unlimited variety of businesses that fall along the range of factors from one to three times SDE and by looking carefully at the details of the business and negotiating diligently you can determine a factor that both buyer and seller can agree on.

That’s it for our introduction to business valuation.

Next time we will review calculating Seller’s Discretionary Earnings using a case study and real-world examples. n

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SALES

Fetch More Dollars: Selling is Helping

The first step toward self-improvement is self-motivation, says John D. Visconti

elf-improvement requires motivation. It is no different than dog training: no motivation = no training.

Unfortunately, many trainers feel that a column about sales is about as inspirational as a column about colonoscopies. And even though the sales process is critical to the health of any training business and, in turn, the life quality of dogs and their owners, trainers often avoid it like the proverbial plague. I get the distinct sense that many trainers feel about sales as Woody Allen noted about death: “I’m not afraid of death. I just don’t want to be there when it happens.” Let’s just say that the process of selling has not captured the hearts of many dog trainers.

It is my belief that several misconceptions about selling are rooted in fear of rejection and that trainers often look for justification for avoiding the sales process.

These justifications come in the form of misconceptions about methods utilized in the sales process; negative beliefs about the character traits of salespeople; using one’s experience with unscrupulous con artists (con artists are not professional salespeople) as proof that salespeople are dishonest; a belief that the ability to sell is innate and cannot be learned; and that in this day and age of websites and social media, the need for proactive selling is passé.

Sadly, when you avoid selling, you limit your ability to achieve your dreams of enriching the lives of dogs and their owners. The way I figure, the only thing standing between us and greatness is, well, us. So, with that in mind, let’s knock down a few walls.

When I lecture, I always ask my audience: “How many of you have a positive association with the word ‘selling’?”

My hunch is that I would get the same response if I asked: “How many of you have a positive association with the words ‘root canal’?” Then I ask, “How many of you have a positive association with the words ‘dog training’?” A sea of hands are raised. Side by side, I then show pictures of a smarmy looking used car salesman and a trainer using a shock collar and I ask why they made a distinction between the two. Why did they identify one profession as negative and the other as positive? Is there not just as high a percentage of incompetent, unethical individuals in each field?

Perhaps the root for the -CER towards the sales process can be found in how the average person defines a salesperson.

We are all aware of dog trainers who are incompetent, unprofessional, uninformed and, in some cases, lacking in ethics. However, we do not broadly brush the entire profession negatively because of the actions of the lowest common denominator. Instead, our association with the words ‘dog training’ remains positive. We continue to train and see what we do, justifiably, as being of great value. In fact, those ‘bad’ trainers often inspire us to be even better trainers than we already are.

Similarly, I invite you to be motivated as a salesperson in part because of those who are utilizing less than ethical sales methods. You can choose to be whatever type of salesperson you desire to be.

As noted by Maya Angelou, “You may not control all the events that happen to you, but you can decide not to be reduced by © Can Stock Photo them.”

Perhaps, just as owners are often required to change a cue word once it has been poisoned, we should change the ‘salesperson’ label to ‘compliance specialist’ or ‘persuasion engineer’ or better still, ‘helper.’ As a trainer, your first order of business is to help your prospective clients. There is no need to sell if your primary focus is on helping. And the first thing you want to help your prospective clients do is hire the best trainer possible – you.

It is pretty difficult to have a negative association toward helping people. The next time the phone rings, or you receive an email inquiry, forget about selling to that dog owner and remember, there is a reason they contacted you – they need your help. Help and good things will follow.

Effective, professional salespeople, help others. And it feels great to do so. Selling is helping. n John D. Visconti CPDT-KA is the owner of Fetch More Dollars sales consulting for dog trainers, Dog Trainer ConneXion business management software and Rising Star Dog Training.

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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BOOK REVIEW

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One Step at a Time

In Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs, Malena DeMartini-Price provides a road map to treat this common problem. Reviewed by Anne Springer

f Malena DeMartini-Price has one overriding idea that continues throughout her book Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs it is that this disorder, while difficult from a management perspective especially, is treatable.

A graduate of the San Francisco SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers program with 13 years’ experience, DeMartini-Price has successfully worked with hundreds of separation anxiety cases. Her seminar Fixing the Unfixable has been offered all over the country and she has presented webinars to both Jean Donaldson’s Academy for Dog Trainers and the Pet Professional Guild.

As new trainers years ago, many of us probably recall other trainers saying they referred every case of separation anxiety to veterinarian behaviorists because it was such an intractable problem, clients gave up easily and it made them look incompetent as trainers. This book gives veteran and new trainers a way to tailor treatment plans so their clients have the best hope of success, even making the treatment of this disorder a specialty.

At the outset, the book takes trainers through a competent diagnostic process – what separation anxiety is and what it is not, focusing on factors that contribute to the development of this disorder and determining the severity of the dog’s case. One reason for doing this, aside from formulating the treatment plan, is that both trainers and owners can be encouraged to see the progress the dog is making, again bolstering the “don’t give up” philosophy. DeMartini-Price stresses that trainers must provide realistic expectations, since this is one of the problems that tends to result in poor owner compliance. If we reflect upon how owners’ expectations are often very high for simple problems such as teaching a dog not to pull on its leash, imagine how they might feel after three to four weeks of seemingly no progress from a dog that suffers panic attacks at being left alone? So, recognition of any progress can keep a client engaged in the process and perhaps save the dog its home and life!

A severe case of SA can take many months to resolve.

Thus, trainers are encouraged not to “sugar coat” the dog’s ability to recover. Owners tend to give up just at the time when the dog’s learning curve, as DeMartini-Price

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puts it, is “flat.” Hence the importance of warning clients that this is a normal part of the treatment scenario, not an indication the dog is failing, and is when much of the dog’s real learning is actually taking place during that heartbreakingly slow first few weeks.

One of the best things about the book is its chronological and logical approach to treatment, the critical role of “suspending absences” at the beginning of treatment, the inclusion of modern technology and computer programs and applications that make it possible for trainers to communicate with owners in real time, and assessing the dog’s behavior visually despite not being in the environment with the dog. The training plans are incremental and step-by-step, so are not just the usual prose from which trainers often need to extract their own version of a plan.

Another gem: the four handouts DeMartini-Price provides each client, which attack the owner compliance mission head on. In the first handout she explains that owners often give up but that three out of four dogs with SA can be completely relieved of the disorder. These are pretty good odds.

Handout 2 is where owners learn logic is not at play – the dog really does not understand you are coming back. The message – punishment has no place in treatment.

Trainers should particularly love the advice in Handout 3, however. “We read at the See Spot Run level for years before we attempt War and Peace,” she says. Why not extend our dogs the same courtesy?” That idea could apply to any training we do, not only behavior modification for severe problems such as separation anxiety.

Someone who deals with this issue on a daily basis, successfully, has finally tackled the problem in a comprehensively created protocol, complete with training plans and business suggestions (Business Section written by Gina Phairas of Dog-tec). Any practitioner wanting to add this aspect of behavior modification to their services should have this book in their library. It is definitely a “road map” for treatment as well as supporting clients through the process, as Jean Donaldson’s quote on the back cover suggests. In fact, this ‘must read’ takes quite a few bumps out of the road along the way! n

PRODUCT REVIEW

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Puzzles for Mental Stimulation

Leslie Clifton extols the virtues of interactive feeding toys for cats and dogs

very Dog Deserves a Brick. What?

You are probably thinking why would my dog need or deserve a brick? I am talking about the Nina Ottosson Dog Brick food puzzle, of course.

Have you looked at the website lately? No? Quickly, run - don’t walk - to browse through all the latest additions.

You will of course want to look at The Brick, one of my favorite mental stimulation toys. There are new cat items available too!

Anyways, back to The Brick! I specialize in dog behavior, most recently as The DogSmith of Upper Eastern Shore. I just love a great supply of food puzzles at my finger tips to recommend for mental stimulation.

The latter is a huge part of all my behavior modification programs. But back to The Brick! Here are some of the reasons why I love it so: • Sturdy high grade plastic • Easy to clean • Takes a real beating as in Bridget (the dog) bashing • A good starter which easily progresses to a more difficult level • Easy to fill The Brick is easy to fill and set up and set

up - some toys are just so fussy...

As far as I can see there are no real disadvantages, save one. Dogs prone to grabbing and running may want to play keep away with the plastic bone-shaped Feeding toys blocking pieces. But then for cats provide we always do interacan outlet for tive puzzles under dipredatory instincts rect supervision, correct? Plus we always take advantage of teaching opportunities, correct?

So, repeating my mantra: Every Dog Deserves a Brick! In my opinion, The Brick is a great investment and should be in every dog’s collection of interactive food puzzles.

Enjoy shopping and browsing. Don’t forget your PPG member discount at checkout. Would you like more discount and be able to earn income on referred sales? Ask about our Affiliate Program.

Thank you for shopping force-free and promoting a better way of life for pets. n

The Brick starts at an easy level and builds up

BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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MEMBER PROFILE

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The Joy of Learning

In the ongoing series of PPG member profiles, this month BARKS features Donna Savoie of Pack of Paws Dog Training

onna Savoie was inspired to become a dog trainer

by Gretchen, one of her own German shepherd dogs. Gretchen was poorly socialized and prone to aggressive behavior.

Q: Tell us a little bit about your own pets:

A: I have three German shepherds – Panzer, an 11-yearold male acquired as a puppy. He is an awesome dog and loves people but is not a fan of other dogs. We have worked hard on this all his life and he is now tolerant and can even enjoy events. He loves to learn. Panzer is definitely a training geek!

Then I have Gretchen, a nine-year-old acquired as a sixmonth-old adolescent. She was not socialized at all. She is highly intelligent, very food motivated and only loves her mom, her dad and one of her mom's trainers. Gretchen is my reason for pursuing behavior modification using positive methods. She has a strong prey drive and is aggressive towards people and other dogs. Through relationship building and positive training, she is now a highly trained Donna Savoie has used positive reinforcement to help her dogs overcome various behavioral issues

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dog who can tolerate most situations, including guests in her home. She is a testament to what positive training can do.

Finally, I have Moxie, a six-year-old female acquired as a rescue when she was two years old. She had been crated 20 out of 24 hours a day and not even allowed out to eliminate. The man who owned her thought it would be cool to do "bite work" with her but without any obedience or relationship building. She was a challenge – she was a vehement resource guarder and did not want to be touched or handled in any way. Through patience and relationship building plus positive obedience training she has turned into an awesome and friendly dog.

Q: Why did you become a dog trainer or pet care provider?

A: There was a huge need for positive trainers who could/would work with an aggressive dog. While I did not know the term "positive trainer" at the time, I did know that the trainers I contacted for help with Gretchen were

condescending. They could not explain her behavior and only wanted to choke, poke, shock etc. I was unwilling to treat my dog that way, as she LOVES us. As I researched in books and looked for trainers, I ultimately went to ABC to learn. I quickly found out there is a difference between "training obedience" and "behavior modification for fear and aggression" and the mold was cast. I was addicted to learning and started my journey.

As it turns out, the education and experience I have been afforded helped us make the adoption of our third dog, Moxie, a success. Even though Gretchen can be very dog aggressive, we were able to incorporate the new dog into our home without incident.

Q: What do you consider to be your area of expertise?

A: Family-dog relationship building and manners and behavior modification for fear and aggression.

Q: Are you a crossover trainer or have you always been a force-free trainer?

A: I have always been force-free. I have never ever believed in using pain on an animal for any reason. I have always thought the word "training" as synonymous with "teaching" and one cannot "teach" if one is causing stress and pain to the learner.

I went to Catholic school in the 70’s when the nuns were not all that nice. It was not a set up for optimum learning for me and since then I have always taught by praising the learner. Before I became a dog trainer, I was an office manager at different construction companies and, as middle management, it was my job to train staff. I have been a trainer of sorts for a very long time.

Q: Who has most influenced your career and how?

A: I would have to say Ann Dupuis of Randolph, MA. When I took Click to Calm in 2005, she took a liking to me and saw that I wanted to really learn. She was nice and approachable and not at all judgmental. She answered all my questions and was my first inspiration. She ensured that I understood the lesson at hand, saw that I was a "show me and explain it to me" person – which was exactly what she did. She continues to be an inspiration. I still say "I want to be just like Ann." I remember how she never embarrassed me, always made me feel proud of my dog and really set me up for success at every lesson.

MEMBER PROFILE

Q: What drives you to be a force-free professional and why is it important to you?

A: I have always felt that learning should be fun, no matter what we are learning or teaching. Dog training is no different and, since we have dogs for our personal enjoyment, we should have fun and enjoy. No joy comes from causing stress or pain to any animal. As I continue to train in the family dog venue and in behavior modification, I so enjoy watching the relationship grow between the family and their dog. It still touches my heart and always will.

Q: How has the PPG helped you to become a more complete trainer?

A: The resources afforded to PPG members are wonderful. And it is inspiring to see so many force-free trainers making their mark. Recently I was invited to join an "Ask the Trainer" group on Facebook. The trainer who was in charge of the group was old-style, traditional trainer, but a couple of us took it over. We actively answer questions and have not seen activity from the old trainer since. I think that he trolls the page and learns from us. We are all PPG members who are on the page answering questions.

The opportunity PPG offers to network with others who are committed 100 percent to positive training and positive problem solving is wonderful.

Q: What reward do you get out of a day's training?

A: Smiling and laughing clients always tickle me pink! But mostly, when we keep a dog in his home. That's like a million bucks a day. We are well known for our success with difficult cases, so many of our clients call us as a "last ditch effort." Our success rate really is impressive. We keep it simple, applicable and doable for the family and when it is simple and doable then they can be compliant. A compliant client usually equals success.

Q: What are some of your favorite positive reinforcement techniques for most commonly encountered client-dog problems?

A: Here are a couple of my favorite examples: Q: What do I do if my dog jumps?

A: Hand targeting with a low hand.

A: Spin! Spin requires four paws on the floor.

Q: What do I do about begging? I like giving him BARKS from the Guild/July 2014

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MEMBER PROFILE

Even poorly socialized dogs can learn to tolerate many situations - with the right training

people food.

A: Teach him how to beg. Dogs do what works for them. Use a mat next to the table and when he is lying on the mat, give him a treat. He will learn that being on the mat equals begging and he will get what he is trying to get. Over time, put the mat farther away from the table. It will not take long before the dog is in a down/stay on the mat wait ing for his piece of pork roast!

Q: What is your favorite part of your job?

A: I actually love running big group classes! The camaraderie and laughter that can be generated during a wellrun group class contributes to maximum learning. When people have a good time, they remember that and they remember what they learned.

We have a lot of techniques for getting people involved – we ask the group questions, reward their participation, inspire them to share their training stories and so on.

Games and activities inserted into an obedience class make it fun too.

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Q: What is the funniest or craziest situation you have been in with a pet and their owner?

A: There have been so many but as recently as last night in group class our pouting pointer finally showed his personality after six weeks. He was a little shy and sensitive and was velcroed to his mom.

During graduation we were working on some tricks, teaching spin, peek-a-boo and play bow. All of a sudden he put his own spin on spin and jumped about 2 ft. in the air and did his spin mid air. He landed, play bowed and did his airborne spin again. He was having so much fun and the entire class laughed. The more we laughed the happier this dog was. He has an awesome handler and it was nice to see him finally feel comfortable enough in the group class environment to be silly and add his own style and flair to the tricks.

Q: What advice would you give to a new trainer starting out?

A: Don't be judgmental. The pet owner is reaching out for help because he is not the expert. Being positive with the human end of the leash is crucial. Give the human feedback and find a reason to say "good job." Listen to the client and do not formulate your answer before they have finished speaking. Listening to the client is a learned skill and a very important skill to hone. n

Pack of Paws Dog Training is based in Southbridge, MA