BARKS from the Guild September 2016 by The Pet Professional Guild

BARKS from the Guild

www.BARKSmagazine.com

Issue No. 20 / September 2016

DOG SPORTS Canicross and Scent Tracking

CANINE The Language of Resource Guarding

Â© Can Stock Photo Inc./adogslifephoto

TRAINING Tolerance Levels and the Emergency Stop FELINE The Subtleties of Communication AVIAN The Basics of Targeting

EQUINE Gaining Trust in Training

PET CARE A Positive Day Care Experience

Dodging Euthanasia

How force-free training saved a dog with a fivebite history A Force-Free Publication from the Pet Professional Guild: By the Members for the Members

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BARKS

from the Guild Published by the Pet Professional Guild 9122 Kenton Road, Wesley Chapel, Florida 33545, USA Tel: +1-41 Dog-Train (+1-413-648-7246) PetProfessionalGuild.com petprofessionalguild.com/BARKSfromtheGuild facebook.com/BARKSfromtheGuild Editor-in-Chief Susan Nilson barkseditor@PetProfessionalGuild.com

Images © Can Stock Photo: canstockphoto.com (unless otherwise credited; uncredited images belong to PPG) The Guild Steering Committee Kelly Fahey, Carole Husein, Rebekah King, Debra Millikan, Susan Nilson, Stephanie Presdee, Claire Staines, Louise Stapleton-Frappell, Angelica Steinker, Niki Tudge

BARKS from the Guild Published bi-monthly, BARKS from the Guild presents a collection of valuable business and technical articles as well as reviews and news stories pertinent to our industry. BARKS is the official publication of the Pet Professional Guild.

Submissions BARKS encourages the submission of original written materials. Please contact the Editor-in-Chief for contributor guidelines prior to sending manuscripts or see: PetProfessionalGuild.com/Forcefreeindustrypublication Please submit all contributions via our submission form at: PetProfessionalGuild.com/BFTGcontent

Letters to the Editor To comment on an author’s work, or to let PPG know what topics you would like to see more of, contact the Editor-in-Chief via email putting BARKS in the subject line of your email. BARKS reserves the right to edit for length, grammar and clarity.

Subscriptions and Distribution Please contact Rebekah King at Membership@PetProfessionalGuild.com for all subscription and distribution-related enquiries. Advertising Please contact Niki Tudge at Admin@PetProfessionalGuild.com to obtain a copy of rates, ad specifications, format requirements and deadlines. Advertising information is also available at: PetProfessionalGuild.com/AdvertisinginBARKS

PPG does not endorse or guarantee any products, services or vendors mentioned in BARKS, nor can it be responsible for problems with vendors or their products and services. PPG reserves the right to reject, at its discretion, any advertising. The Pet Professional Guild is a membership business league representing pet industry professionals who are committed to force-free training and pet care philosophies, practices and methods. Pet Professional Guild members understand force-free to mean: No Shock, No Pain, No Choke, No Prong, No Fear, No Physical Force, No Physical Molding and No Compulsion-Based Methods.

From the Editor

ver the years I spent in rescue as a volunteer when I was first starting out in canine behavior, I saw many fabulous dogs euthanized by shelter bosses because they were fearful, anxious, lacking in trust or confidence, or simply because they were unable to cope with the stress of a shelter environment and being cooped up with so many other dogs with a minimum of physical, psychological and environmental stimulation. They might have lashed out at a kennel assistant or another dog while they were eating, or may have lurked at the back of their kennel and been difficult to handle. I would spend time with these dogs doing basic clicker training for relaxation and confidence building, and would plead the case for every single one of them. My efforts, sadly, would fall on deaf ears. I still remember the names and faces of all those dogs, and will always wish I could have been in a better position to have been able to save them. Admittedly, shelter bosses always have too many dogs to worry about and have to make terrible, life and death decisions every day, but I can’t help but wonder how many of those dogs who lost their lives would have thrived given half the chance. This is the topic of our cover story this month, which features the tale of mini-Aussie Skye who was destined for the needle because of his five-bite history. Dogs have lost their lives for far less, yet this lucky boy found exactly the right person to help him and, in not such a long stretch of time, has been successfully integrated with his new owner’s resident canine family, and has not bitten since either. Skye is one of the lucky ones and I am thrilled to feature his story this month as a tribute to the countless others that many of us try to save but are unable to, for a host of reasons. We have plenty of other topics for canine professionals in this issue, including tracking as part of your behavioral ABC, the benefits of canicross for deaf (and, in fact, all) dogs, the body language of resource guarding, a personal account of adopting littermates, training the emergency stop, teaching increased levels of tolerance for dogs prone to frustration, and training pre-foundation behaviors to help dogs focus. Elsewhere, we feature an insightful pet care article on the key components required to ensure dogs at day care facilities have both a safe an enjoyable experience. We also highlight the importance of engaging dog owners so they feel encouraged and inspired to take what they have learned in a training class home with them and keep practicing. Our feline topic of the month focuses on debunking the arguably common perception that cats are “aloof” or “unfriendly” and highlighting ways owners can better communicate with their feline companions. For the horse people, our equine feature discusses the importance of gaining a horse’s trust in training and being able to read him sufficiently to ensure he feels completely comfortable with any situation we put him in. For the avian enthusiasts, we look at the intriguing tale of Darcy the cormorant, who was trained in the art of stationing in under five minutes. By the time you read this several of PPG’s steering committee members and many Guild members will have converged on Leeds, England for the PPG British Isles Mini-Summit. I hope to see you there! BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

n Susan Nilso

CONTENTS

24 26 28 30 33 36 39 42 44 47 50 52 54 56 59 61

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

21 26

Photo: Siân Baxter

NEWS, EDUCATION AND EVENTS PPG Summit, PPGBI, PPG World Service, PPG Webinars, PPG Workshops, PPAB, Project Trade and more DODGING EUTHANASIA Diane Garrod relates the tale of a mini-Aussie with a five-bite history, and how force-free training methods saved his life LEARNING FRUSTRATION TOLERANCE Barbara Wright suggests a number of approaches for raising tolerance levels in dogs prone to frustration THE LANGUAGE OF RESOURCE GUARDING Angelica Steinker discusses how to identify dog body language consistent with resource guarding A LIFELONG BOND Tammy Weaver relates her own experiences of so-called littermate syndrome HITTING THE TRAILS Morag Heirs delves into the world of canicross and why it is an excellent option for deaf dogs THE VALUE OF THE EMERGENCY STOP Jo Park discusses her appreciation of emergency recalls being taught in pet manners classes REACHING A PLATEAU Kama Brown compiles a list of pre-foundation behaviors to help improve focus in training THE BENEFITS OF TRACKING Ewa Highland looks into using tracking as part of your ABC when working with unwanted behaviors in dogs THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT Nikki Sherwin introduces a practical method to ensure canine day care is a positive experience DETERMINING CLASS SUCCESS Veronica Boutelle highlights the importance of taking the classroom home when teaching dog training classes NOTACATPERSON Carolyn Kocman cites the many reasons for dispelling the myth that cats are “unfriendly” NO RESTRAINTS Kathie Gregory explains the importance of ensuring a horse feels safe to encourage a positive learning experience TARGETING LIKE A PRO Lara Joseph sees a cormorant named Darcy learn the basics of targeting in under five minutes HOT OFF THE PRESS Barbara Wright reports from the 2016 Canine Science Forum with updates on some of the most recent studies BEHAVIOR IS SCIENCE Patience Fisher delivers a host of pithy sound bites from a recent seminar by Dr. Susan Friedman SPLIT, DONÊT LUMP! Niki Tudge explains how you and your business can benefit from effective time management COMMENT: CONFIRMATION BIAS? Nikki Finn-Loudenslager wonders what the National Football League has in common with dog training PROFILE: A SPECIAL LEGACY Featuring Melissa Chow of Paws of Change Training and Behavior in Fredericksburg,Virginia

NEWS PPG Releases Position Statement on Breed Specific Legislation

PG has released a new position statement on Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) in view of the many ongoing cases of dogs being seized or banned solely because of their breed or appearance, both in the US and further afield. The statement outlines PPG’s view that BSL paints an unjust picture of certain breeds of dogs while punishing responsible dog guardians unnecessarily, and notes that it has been found to be costly and ineffective in its aims to reduce the number of dog bites and improve public safety in any given community. Scientists, canine behavior and training professionals, animal welfare associations and veterinary behavior bodies worldwide have all contributed to the debate, and much literature is available detailing the reasons why BSL is ineffective in dog bite prevention and does not improve the safety of the public at large. In its position statement, PPG announces its opposition of any law or regulation that discriminates against dogs purely because of their breed or appearance, stating that a neutral approach should be taken to evaluate dogs on an individual basis, focusing on behavior and environment rather than appearance. PPG also states that “[s]ingling out specific breeds as dangerous provides the public with an unfair perception of those dogs while potentially creating a false sense of safety as far as other dogs are concerned.” In fact, studies have shown that a lack of appropriate care, supervision and mistreatment of a dog are key components in many dog bite occurrences, regardless of breed. PPG holds that, in place of BSL, a combination of educating the public, dog owners, shelters, and rescue organizations; early and positive socialization; force-free, science based training; and ensuring that dogs are paired within appropriate households is needed in order to reduce the number of dog inflicted bites. “BSL is intended to improve public safety and reduce the number of dogs bites, yet the practice includes little, if any, assessment of individual behavior or environment, owner knowledge of canine behavior and training, and/or owner suitability as a dog guardian, not to mention the fact that many dogs are inaccurately labeled simply because of the way they look,” said PPG founder and president, Niki Tudge. “PPG’s role is to educate and engage more pet professionals and pet owners, promoting the science based, result based forcefree message, philosophy and training practices. I believe that this same goal should be applied to all pets and this is why this position statement is so important. Research shows us that all animals learn in the same way and that each animal is an individual regardless of its breed. Many of our professional members interact, either personally or professionally, with many, if not all, of the breeds affected by BSL and will bear witness to the fact that animal learning is not breed specific. BSL does not address this at all." PPG’s position statement includes a host of quotes from canine behavior and training experts, veterinary behavior associations, canine research scientists and international animal welfare bodies who all agree that BSL is ineffective and outline the many reasons why this is so, backed up by professional research and scientific studies. 6

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

About Breed Specific Legislation Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) is a law or legal ordinance that restricts or prohibits the ownership of certain breeds (or types) of dogs. It usually affects “pit bull” type dogs, although the breeds targeted vary in different countries, states or counties. American pit bull terriers, American Staffordshire terriers, American bulldogs, Staffordshire bull terriers and English bull terriers are often included in the “pit bull group,” wherein the term “pit bull” is used generically for a number of closely related breeds such as these. In many cases, dogs who are thought to be “pit bull” type because of their appearance are inaccurately labeled. Other breeds that often find themselves the target of BSL include the Rottweiler, mastiff, chow chow, German shepherd, Doberman pinscher, filo Brasileiro, dogo Argentino, presa Canaria and Japanese tosa. PPG member Laura Nalven poses with her dog Nina: Under BSL many dogs are inaccurately labeled purely because of their appearance, with no assessment of individual behavior

Read the complete position statement at: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Breed-Specific-Legislation. Find out what the experts, including Jean Donaldson,Victoria Stilwell, Lynn Honeckman and Janis Bradley say: www.petprofessionalguild.com/What-The-Experts-Say Read the press release Pet Professional Guild releases position statement on Breed Specific Legislation at: www.prlog.org/12577064-pet-professional-guild-releases -position-statement-on-breed-specific-legislation.html

PPG Improves Membership Customer Service

PG has a new telephone number supported by a new infrastructure to make it easier for members to get in touch when they need help or support. When you dial the new number it will be answered live from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (CT). Members can also reach out to different extensions. The new number is +1844-462-6473 The old number will be faded out gradually so anyone using the old number will still reach us. The hotline number remains the same, +1-914-357-5481. All the new numbers are on the Contact Us page, www.petprofessionalguild.com/contactPPG.

NEWS

PPAB Launches New Level for Canine Training Technicians; Waives All Eligibility Fees

he Pet Professional Accreditation Board (PPAB) has added a new level to its current accreditation process aimed at professional canine training technicians. Holders of the new qualification will earn the title Canine Training Technician (Accredited), www.credentialingboard.com/CTT-A, and be able to display the letters (CTT-A) after their names. As a special introductory offer, PPAB is waiving the $45 eligibility fee for all CTT-A applications from August through October 2016. The same waiver also applies to applications for all other credentials offered by PPAB. The accreditation has been introduced as a Level One qualification and was developed specially for professionals who are highly skilled and experienced in the practical art of dog training but may not necessarily hold any formal titles in their field. The CTT-A accolade joins the current titles Professional Canine Trainer – Accredited (PCT-A), a Level Two qualification, and Professional Canine Behavior Consultant – Accredited (PCBC-A), a Level Three qualification, both of which are already offered by PPAB. Each program has a rigorous path to completion. To acquire the new accreditation, CTT-A candidates will be assessed on their knowledge base, including canine communication and social behavior; recognition of the need for relaxation strategies; general training and management; emotional wellbeing managed through adequate mental and physical stimulation; ethics; the science of learning; and training tools and equipment.

New Special Counsel Members at PPGBI

PGBI has added leading pet industry experts Kamal Fernandez and Karen Wild to its special counsel with immediate effect. They join existing members Craig MacLellan, Prof. Paul McGreevy, Debbie Matthews,Victoria Stilwell and Helen Phillips as PPGBI looks to build on current expertise and give force-free training and pet care methods an even broader voice. Wild is a certificated clinical animal behaviorist and a qualified dog training instructor who lectures at Anglia Ruskin University and the Central College for Animal Studies in the UK. She is also an established author. Fernandez is an internationally recognized seminar instructor and dog trainer who has established a reputation for positive training and championed the use of rewardbased methods worldwide. “Karen Wild and Kamal Fernandez are both highly respected, prominent specialists in the field of animal behavior and training and we are honored that they have accepted our invitation to join PPGBI’s Special Counsel,” said Niki Tudge, president of PPGBI’s parent organization, PPG. “Professional practice and 'people skills' are missing from many areas of pet business education,” added Wild. “PPG provides a huge resource for these aspects and I am happy to be a part of this. I favor proper registration… [of] credentials and experience so that pets and their owners get the very best of care. This is the way forward for our industry and for animal welfare.” PPGBI is about to hold its inaugural educational Mini-Summit for pet professionals in Leeds, England on Saturday, September 10 – Sunday, September 11, 2016, www.petprofessionalguild.com /Virtual-Pet-Care-Summit.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Candidates will also be required to submit filmed evidence as they teach a dog (or dogs) five randomly selected basic skills, and another film clip in which they must explain what a conditioned emotional response is, how to achieve it, and to demonstrate how they have changed a dog’s experience of a neutral or unpleasant object or situation to an alternative, positive response to that same object or situation. Finally, candidates will be required to submit two videos of them running actual training classes. PPAB has established a set of eligibility criteria, and has published a comprehensive study guide to assist candidates as they move through the process. “Our education committee has been working on this new level qualification for several months,” said Niki Tudge, president of the Pet Professional Guild (PPG). “Our goal was to provide an attractive option for professionals who are excellent dog trainers in practical terms, skills and experience, but may not necessarily have the corresponding academic qualifications. We have already tested the program successfully and are now ready to roll it out internationally to both PPG members and non-members.”

Upload a Picture of Your Pet!

n support of its recently released position statement on Breed Specific Legislation (see page 6), PPG has added a gallery for members’ dogs on its website. All members are invited to upload a picture of their pet to join the wonderful assortment of dogs already there and representing all different shapes, sizes and personalities. Note: you must be logged to see the orange Upload button, www.petprofessionalguild.com/PPG-Member-Pets.

Facebook Page for Cat Behavior

he PPG Cat Committee invites members to learn more about cats in a closed Facebook group for PPG members only. The page is open for discussions on various feline related topics, and to answer questions about cat behavior, environmental enrichment, behavior problems, nutrition and more. Search on Facebook for PPG All About Cats, ask to join, and join the discussion!

A Note on Member Credentials

PG membership levels are categorized as follows: full member, business owner, associate member, employee and then provisional member, student or someone who wishes to access force-free resources. PPG recognizes all member credentials, and members are able to insert and note the credentials they carry in their profiles. There is no intention to change the fundamentals of how memberships are processed or listed. For a few weeks only there was a search criterion option on the new PPAB credentials but this has now been removed. The search feature for the directory will remain by membership level only.

NEWS

PPG Summit 2016: Veterinary CEUs Now Approved

EUs have now been approved for veterinarians and veterinary technicians at PPG’s second educational Summit, taking place at the Sheraton Tampa East hotel on Monday, November 7 - Friday, November 11, 2016. The Sheraton Tampa East is offering a special discounted rate of $126 for Summit attendees available only till the rooms at that rate are booked out.You can reserve directly at www.starwoodmeeting.com /events/start.action?id =1512180838&key=30186160. For more information on pricing and packages, see www .petprofessionalguild.com/Packages-and-pricing. For the full Summit presenter schedule, see www.petprofessionalguild.com /Summit-Schedule. If you would like to promote your business at Summit 2016, why not provide a flyer or leaflet for the official SWAG Bag? That way you can get your message out to every attendee and pre-

senter for just $300 (actual value $700). Benefits include: • Your business logo in the Official Summit Guide. • Your logo on the Summit website. • Your logo on the Summit “Sponsor Thank You” poster.

PPGBI Mini-Summit, Leeds, UK: The Time Is Now!

PPGBI’s Mini-Summit is taking place in the city of Leeds, England on the weekend of September 11-12, 2016. If you are quick you can still sign up! View the Official Mini Summit Guide: www./issuu.com/petprofessionalguild/docs /ppgbi_mini_summit_guide_2016 To register: www.ppgbi.com/2016-Workshop

Project Trade Announces First-Ever Monthly Ambassadors

roject Trade has announced its first monthly ambassadors, one for May and one for June. Along with many program participants worldwide, they have succeeded in educating their clients to embrace modern, science based, training techniques and tools and to exchange their aversive gear for force-free equipment. Project Trade’s May Ambassador is Daniel Antolec of Happy Buddha Dog Training, www.happybuddhadogtraining.com, in southern Wisconsin. Antolec was selected at random out of a four-way tie with Agnes Kavalecz, Jonelle Warren and Casey McGee who will each receive a $25 credit since everyone turned in one piece of equipment. The Project Trade Ambassador for June is Anastasia Tsoulia of Hug4Pets & Hug4Dogs - Pet Care Services & Positive Dog Training, www.hug4pets.com, in Thessaloniki, Greece, who turned in four prong collars. Congratulations

to all! If you would like to participate in Project Trade, you can apply at: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Project-Trade -Application. For more details on Project Trade, see www.projecttrade.org.

Pet Dog Ambassador Adds Graduate Gallery

et Dog Ambassador (PDA) has installed an online Graduate Gallery where graduates of any of the program’s assessment levels can upload a picture of their pets. The gallery is a way of recognizing the efforts of both dogs and their owners and the hard work all parties have put in to achieve their certificates. Once uploaded, guardians can also leave a caption and comment about their dog. All they have to do is log in and access this part of the website: www.petdogambassador.com/PDA-Graduates.

For more details on Pet Dog Ambassador, see www.petdogambassador.com. BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

NEWS

PPG World Service Radio Show Schedule

he PPG Radio Show, www.petprofessionalguild.com/PPG-Broadcast, takes place on the first Sunday of every month at Noon (EDT) and there are usually extra shows too. There is always an incredible line-up of guests and the show is educational and fun. Here is the current line-up (note: subject to change):

Thursday, September 22, 2016 - Noon (EDT) Lucinda Glenny: The roots of canine aggression. Register at: www.attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/5264001354379152642

Thursday, October 13, 2016 - Noon (EDT) Ken Ramirez: Evolving challenges for the +R trainer. Register at: www.attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/2695132073639355394 You can submit a question for any of the guests here: www.emailmeform.com/builder/form/m37XVZeJ2cL3p0e7lD

Sunday, October 2, 2016 - Noon (EDT) Gina Phairas: Am I charging too much? Register at: www.attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/7596465735693429261

Earn Your CEUs via PPGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Workshop and Webinar Program!

ÂŠ Can Stock Photo /damedeeso

Sunday, September 4, 2016 - Noon (EDT) Dr. Deborah Weir: What animals teach us about life. Debbie Revell: Dog-dog reactivity. Register at: www.attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/5479723333316217858

Workshops

The Gift of a Gray Muzzle: Active Care for Senior Dogs with Kathy Sdao and Lori Stevens (Tampa, Florida) Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 8:30 a.m. (EST) Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 4:30 p.m. (EST) Foundation Skills for Dog Sports and Heel Work 101 with Kamal Fernandez (Tampa, Florida) Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 9 a.m. (EST) Sunday, March 19, 2017 - 4:30 p.m. (EST) Clicker Training for Advanced Competition Obedience, Proofing, Ring Prep and Competition with Kamal Fernandez (Tampa, Florida) Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 9 a.m. (EST) Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 4:30 p.m. (EST)

Live Webinars

Does Canine Hypothyroidism Really Affect Behavior? with Lisa Radosta Thursday, September 1, 2016 - 10 a.m. - 11 a.m. (EDT) TrickMeister Journeyman - The Comprehensive Dog Training Course with Louise Stapleton-Frappell (session 1 of 5) Thursday, September 01, 2016 1 p.m. (EDT) Maintaining Quality Control As Your Business Grows with Brittany Alwerud Wednesday, September 07, 2016 11:30 a.m. (EDT) Inbound Marketing for Non-Marketers with Sam Mallikarjunan Thursday, September 22, 2016 12 p.m. (EDT) TrickMeister Journeyman - The Comprehensive Dog Training Course with Louise Stapleton-Frappell (session 2 of 5) Saturday, October 01, 2016 1 p.m. (EDT) 10

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Non-Violence: A Choice for Trainers with Kathy Sdao Monday, October 03, 2016 1 p.m. (EDT) Living with High Drive Dogs in Domestic Situations with Kamal Fernandez Friday, October 14, 2016 1 p.m. (EDT) TrickMeister Journeyman - The Comprehensive Dog Training Course with Louise Stapleton-Frappell (session 3 of 5) Tuesday, November 01, 2016 1 p.m. (EDT) TrickMeister Journeyman - The Comprehensive Dog Training Course with Louise Stapleton-Frappell (session 4 of 5) Thursday, December 01, 2016 1 p.m. (EST) TrickMeister Journeyman - The Comprehensive Dog Training Course with Louise Stapleton-Frappell (session 5 of 5) Tuesday, January 03, 2017 1 p.m. (EST)

Cat Webinars

Food Enrichment for Adult, Senior and Geriatric Cats with Amy Martin October, 2016 (date/time TBC) Low Stress Cat Handling for Veterinarians, Shelter Staff and Cat Owners with Paula Garber Wednesday, December 7, 2016 - 12 p.m. - 1 p.m. (EST) Details of all upcoming workshops can be found at: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Workshops.

Details of all upcoming webinars can be found at: www.petprofessionalguild.com/GuildScheduledEvents A recording is made available within 48 hours of all PPG webinars. Details of discounted webinars can be found at: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Discounted-Webinars.

#PPGSummit 2016

A Five-Day Interactive, Educational Event

Monday, November 7, 2016 12 p.m. (EST) Friday, November 11, 2016 1 p.m. (EST)

Sheraton Tampa East Hotel in Tampa, Florida

STOP PRESS!! 85.5 CEUs for veterinarians and veterinary technicians! USEFUL LINKS

Presenters and Schedule: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Summit-Schedule Hotel and Facilities: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Summit-2016-location Special Hotel Rate: www.starwoodmeeting.com/events/start.action?id=1512180838&key=30186160 Meals and Entertainment: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Meals-&-Entertainment Packages and Pricing: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Packages-and-pricing Registration: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Summit-2016-Registration Sponsor an Event/Include Your Marketing Collateral in the Summit Swag Bag: www.petprofessionalguild.com/Sponsorship-Opportunities

ALL THE DETAILS: www.ForceFreeSummit.com

COVER STORY

Dodging Euthanasia Diane Garrod relates the tale of Skye, a mini-Aussie with a five-bite history, and how

force-free training methods

Photo: Diane Garrod

literally saved his life

Having bitten five times due to his extreme resource guarding, mini Australian shepherd Skye was scheduled for euthanasia

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

he voicemail came while I was enjoying an anniversary vacation in North Carolina.The message was stark: a client's mini Australian shepherd was to be euthanized. His fifth bite had occurred and had sent his guardian to the emergency room, and the dog into quarantine. His crime was extreme resource guarding. Dogs have been put to sleep for lesser offenses, but having bonded to this little guy, I asked the owner to wait until Thursday and I would pick him up when I returned.Yes, you heard that right, I would adopt a dog with a fivebite history. This is a story about the transformation of a dog who dodged euthanasia and entered into a trainer's force-free training style. Skye arrived on December 11, 2015 around 11:30 a. m. His guardian dropped him off with all his things. I immediately changed his name as any negative connotations having to do with his former name had to leave the building. I also introduced a raw feeding strategy to straight away eliminate corn, soy, starches from his previous diet of kibble. Skye was tense on arrival (see photo on opposite page, bottom right): • Eyes - protruding, wide open. • Shoulders, head, hindquarters all muscle tension. • Constantly Âhyped,Ê and not in a good way. • Could not sleep deeply. • Whining. • Pacing. • Stressed - chronic state, could not Âcome down.Ê • OCD behavior with ball. • Extreme resource guarding. • Stress-induced inverted sneezing. Relaxing and stress release is always a good go-to first step during any acclimation period such as a move, going to a new home, meeting a new dog or human and more, and that is what Skye did for the first five days. He would earn his way into our hearts one room at a time. After the acclimation period he did an eight-day canine emotional detox, a stress release protocol I have developed for chronic stress (see Let Sleeping Dogs Lie, BARKS from the Guild, March 2016, p. 1823). After allowing him to get used to our home, and to de-stress, everything progressed systematically from there.

COVER STORY WHAT Exactly Was the Problem?

A few of Skye's issues were extreme resource guarding (all bites stemmed from extreme resource guarding - to include baring teeth in locations like on a bed), leash aggression, aggressive/reactivity toward men, aggressive/reactivity toward large dogs, reactive on walks, constant whining, pacing, scrounging for food on the floor, unable to think, lack of confidence, fearful, lots of lip lifting, growling, hard staring, jumping up, over-arousal and OCD ball play, and constant anxious barking in the car. He also had stress induced reverse sneezing (this has completely disappeared now) and gulped his food as fast as you could set it down. Grabbing, diving, and launching himself at rewards with razor sharp shark’s teeth was also a huge issue. Five bites to the face, four to his former guardian, one to the pet sitter and a nipped hand of the client's grandchild rounded out most of the known challenges. Skye’s intake form explained that, at 12 weeks old, he was hunched in a corner trembling after a friend brought their dog over. Further, Skye’s sibling brother started charging at people, getting vicious, and bit a 3-year-old child. He was promptly euthanized after that at just 1 year old. Skye’s form explained that he might have a touch of that genetic behavior and that he would cower or go for anyone walking around the house, particularly men. With all this history, I also noticed Skye could be civil, listen to cues and be responsive, and could be very sweet and loving. This was enough information, along with a completed functional assessment that he could be rehabilitated, for me to ascertain that euthanasia did not fit the crime. Most people would give up (not just companion dog owners, but professionals too), perhaps make excuses, be afraid and set the course toward euthanasia. In this case, the pet guardian simply was not willing or able to put in the work needed with Skye and I am forever grateful she called me before going ahead with that course of action. The time was right to accept another dog into our household.

when Skye would look at him without barking, I would click and treat. This was all good until our other dog,Valor, stuck his nose near the Xpen (distraction stacking) and Skye lunged, snarled and snapped. We regrouped and did a very brief Valor and Skye click and treat to end on success. We ended the whole process with just a couple more walk-ins to kitchen by Carl, saying, "Hi Skye," and rewarding for no growling. While I did not look at this as a failure, but rather as information, I still could not help wondering what I had gotten myself into. Acclimation to my husband and the two resident Tervurens was a top priority, and not an option. This transition was an absolute to Skye's transformation. I noticed that anything different - called sudden environmental changes (SECs) - was causing Skye's anxiety. What I was looking at was fear aggression and, as the layers unfurled like onion skin, I began to work on each piece separately starting with the worst behavior, which was extreme resource guarding. Why would I take on such a dog? Some people call re-homes like this crazy, dangerous, a liability and more. Many might say that dogs like this should be euthanized. In some cases that may be true, but there are shades of gray, and evaluating each dog as an individual is key to understanding whether euthanasia is an appropriate option or not. The ‘why’ is obvious in my case, as these are the dogs I work with on a daily basis, the ones with intense challenges. I knew that with a proper acclimation period, a stress release strategy, and a solid, systematic behavior modification process Skye would transform. My functional analysis was right on target and resource guarding was the main issue. The previous pet guardian was not able to do the work it would entail to change Skye's behaviors and so it was a case of the prognosis not being viable in that situation. This did not mean Day one: Skye was tense when he arrived in his new home

The Emotional State behind the Behavior

Skye was frantically resource guarding locations, food, and even me, the latter a revelation that was realized on day four of his transformation. He was also showing fear aggression. Everything he did had a fear element behind it and survival was his modus operandi. He was tense all the time to the point where his eyes noticeably bulged out, making me think he had a thyroid issue. A five-panel test came up negative. Today his eyes are normal and in place, and so it was tension in the head creating this wide, bulging eye appearance, i.e. chronic stress. It would take everything I knew to help this dog transform.

Distrust of Men

Photo: Diane Garrod

Skye growled at my husband, Carl, when first meeting him. Carl walked into the house and said, "Hi Skye," in a happy voice. Skye growled at him (it is rare that any dogs who pass through our home growl at Carl - usually it is just the opposite and they often gravitate toward him). We went into immediate training mode to show that growling does not work and to change the association. I had Carl sit in a chair next to a 5-foot Xpen, and BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

COVER STORY

that a prognosis in another environment would not be viable. Others might be afraid of a dog like this, or say there was no hope, but I knew that a force-free training protocol is superior to making that happen quickly. Soon, after just 36 days, Skye's progressive transformation was well underway. Why was Skye behaving aggressively? On the basis of my functional assessment and analysis, I believed that Skye's behavior was not genetic. Rather, he had ingrained and learned resource guarding behaviors after being challenged for resources. He had little impulse control and was as quick as lightning to grab with sharklike teeth what he thought was his, either from a human or another dog. Indeed, this had worked in the past to get what he wanted. Was I afraid? No. When working with a dog like this fear is never productive, only prohibitive. However, having respect for the dog and being cautious for safety is a necessity. Did I ever think he would not change? No. I had briefly worked with him and his pet guardian and saw he was very biddable. Did we have ups and downs? Yes. Did I ever think, what have I gotten myself into? Yes. Did I follow a systematic plan? Yes. Did I keep everything, every detail force free? Yes. Results occurred immediately. Other behaviors that came out were constant attention seeking, whining, hyper-activity, easily over-stimulated and overexcited yet not very confident, and more worried and fearful. He would grab his leash and viciously snarl, dangling it in mid-air. He wanted anything that was on the floor as his own, and, at the same time, was unsure of what was expected of him.

Context

Photo: Diane Garrod

Why do dogs behave aggressively, meaning with intent to do harm, in certain contexts? Generally, it is because of a lack of

Day 28: Skye performs an auto-down exercise with resident dog, Valor (not pictured)

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Photo: Diane Garrod

Intent to Do Harm?

Day 55: Skye is looking more relaxed; by now, his transformation is well underway

training, social deficits, genetics, or because they have been challenged repeatedly by pet guardians who feel or have been told they have to be the boss. Combine that with being reactive (to the environment, noises, movements, other dogs or humans, or on leash/barrier frustration) and/or an emotional state of fear/anxiety, and you have multiple behaviors that need individual attention. Identification of the exact triggers is a process of due diligence. There is no room for mistakes when working with challenging and volatile dogs; it is a serious implementation of science meets dog. A popular quote is "change the environment, change the dog." The environment is where everything else evolves. It is the wheel's hub, the heart of the body, the bull's eye. Tweaking, changing the current environment can change behavior. In Skye's case, he had a complete change of venue.

Stress Signals

What did I have to do and how did I do it? Meeting the household dogs started right away. This was tricky. Skye was aggressive to large dogs. His intent was to charge and do harm. Pre-adoption I have video of him attacking his house sister just for looking at a reward in a game so I knew this would be a real concern. Our house was outfitted with two sets of Xpens and a baby gate. We played musical dogs for a while. When the new dog was outdoors, the house dogs were indoors and vice-versa. How do I acclimate a dog to another dog? It always starts with protected contact (i.e. Xpen, baby gate or on leash) and working with one dog at a time and moves into slowly removing the barrier, having a drag line and then, when all dogs are ready, all out together. It starts indoors usually, and then moves outdoors. A few video examples follow to demonstrate portions of Skye's progress and how nervous he was in the beginning. The sessions were short to begin with, usually five minutes, and were

Step-by-Step Transformation

There were many steps that we took daily to lead to a better adjusted dog. Nothing was left out or moved through too quickly or too slowly. Once the first equation was complete to an 80 percent success rate, the other equations were implemented in sequence and, by day 36, we were well into solving the aggression puzzle and had progressed to equation three. Today we have worked through all the equations and, in just six months, we see automatic behavior and irrelevance to triggers. Below are samples of the basic equations. Equation Two: Calm + Focus + Impulse Control = Self-Control Equation Three: Behavior Modification + Skills Applications (intermediate and advanced) = Moving toward Changing Emotional Responses and Irrelevancy to Triggers Equation Four: Evaluation + Setting and Achieving Milestones = Progressing to Real Life when the Dog Is Ready Equation Five: Real Life Application + Consistency and Clarity = Puzzle Solved From there, maintenance, prevention, periodic proofing, and supervision are important, but after equation five it gets rather mundane. People comment that Skye could not possibly have been like I described or that he had all those behaviors.

"Go To" Skill Foundations for Aggression

Changing a dog’s name requires immediate work with name recognition, by adding cues to name responsiveness and eye contact for attentiveness. I also started Skye right away on targeting, obstacle work for focus and more. Every piece has a reason. By day three Skye was going outdoors to potty without a drag line. He earned this when I realized he responded to his new name and came in quickly each time I called him. At the same time, whining had ceased, Skye was satiated with his new diet, was warm and rested and achieved a deep sleep. Skye hated the crate when he arrived and was very apprehensive of it, so he was fed meals in the crate, did ‘find it’ games there and, today, he will choose to go to his crate and lie down without being asked. Skye was rewarded for everything he did RIGHT. He was taught what else I wanted him to do. He was Day 68: Skye (left) and Logan get acquainted

Day 42: Skye (far left) is closer to the other resident dogs when eating

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Photo: Diane Garrod

successful. I watch stress signals closely. Most people have preconceived ideas and work on their timeline. Working on the dog's timeline is a critical piece to solving the puzzle. Listen to the dog’s body language and keep steps below threshold. Giving a dog a choice is a powerful tool that allows transformation to progress systematically versus what we think the schedule should be and look like. I look for distance decreasing signals (playful, wanting to approach) and keep close tabs on distance increasing signals (avoidance, pacing, etc.). Sessions should be no more than five-minutes. In this video, First introduction same space, one of my teacher dogs, Kody, gives Skye space, taking away social pressure. After each five-minute session the dogs have a five-minute rest period to process the good information just learned in a safety zone. This is where real progress starts. In this video, Copying head position, depicting the last five-minutes of a first interaction session, both Kody and I look outside and Skye starts to emulate us - so there is subtle progress. Then he goes back to his crate and gets in willingly. It is a safe zone now and the session ends. In this video, Dog dog session - indoors - 6M only, Skye was displacement sniffing, walking away in avoidance, turning his head, pacing. Step-by-step we go. I handle each and every case with a five-equation rule I have developed. I work to solve (this does not mean cure) the aggression puzzle with highly challenging dogs. It was no different with Skye and, as usual, reaped big benefits quickly. The first equation is: Relax + Responsiveness = Safety,Trust and Confidence. This is the acclimation video from day one, Acclimation day one to new home, and this, Dog dog. Acclimation. Step one-2, is what we ended with during the process to acclimate to the first dog, Kody. Acclimation started to the second house dog,Valor, on the same day. I was surprised at how quickly the acclimations were going, but was still very cautious. Today, Skye has worked with many strange dogs as boarders, large and small and dogs barking at him, approaching on walks are no longer an issue. My dogs have welcomed him into our home with open paws (see pictures, bottom left and right).

COVER STORY

Skye (front, left) is now relaxed with the other dogs in the home, but was very nervous initially and would bare his teeth and lunge at Valor (back, left)

never punished and bad behavior simply extinguished. Capturing calm was a challenge in the early stages. We practiced a lot to get faster and longer calm periods. Today Skye calms himself quickly and for long periods of time. Starting where the dog is able to start is always key.

Working with Aggression

Never assume anything and go backwards when you have to. I always like to work on the worst behavior first, as I find that working through that often dissolves other behaviors as the emotional responses change. For Skye, that meant focusing on his extreme resource guarding. Once the first acclimation to my husband and the house dogs was complete and a stress reduction program ended on results, then the focus was solely on resource guarding. The bottom line is that if a dog is worked daily, has quality sessions with clear goals and milestones and a client is committed to the process, change will occur. It is important that people with challenging dogs immediately hire a force-free professional to help them develop a systematic plan for their dog's behavior change, for their lifestyle, for their family all working together to create solutions. Each dog is an individual and this needs to be addressed from that point of view. We are not baking cakes, fixing cars or plumbing, we are addressing the emotions surrounding why the dog aggresses and changing emotional responses (CERs) for lasting change. What did I think was in Skye's future? By day four I saw forward and backward movement. On day four, Skye bared his teeth at Carl and Valor, but also caught himself and turned away, then paced. I do not take stress signals lightly. We had gone a bit too far, too fast, and so we went backwards for a day. I decided I would at least need to add L-theanine in this dog's future (and medication too, possibly). Definitely, I thought at the time, muzzle training would be needed for specific situations, a two-points leading system and more. But by day 36 I realized I would not have to put him on medication, a supplement or a muzzle (although muzzle training was done anyway as a part of his teaching process). He walks on two-points of contact, a TTouch® leading technique involving a lead with two clasps at18

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

tached to top of harness and around chest to a side ring on dog's left side. We still use this system today, but I am teaching him at this stage to walk on one point and long line leash drag on trail walks. Take working with aggression seriously. That means having clear goals, working systematically with milestones and outcomes and knowing when you will move forward or backward. The equations help to keep me on track. Evaluating progress every three days and keeping a log identifies progress as well as when to move on to the next steps. In the first three days our evaluation went like this: The Good: 1) Learning name through name recognition game. 2) Eye contact successful up to two-second duration. 3) Achieved deep sleep. 4) Whining completely ceased. 5) Crate games = willing entry to new crate with door closed. 6) Successful first step acclimation to Kody and Valor and both together. 7) Connection exercises started. 8) Relaxation, calm all good. 9) From leash drag to no leash outdoors and coming indoors when called. 10) Several ‘find it’ games. 11) Expanded house entry to two rooms. 12) Successful switch to raw diet. 13) Accepts and likes TTouch®. 14) Started first of dog-dog interactions indoors for five minutes (it did not go as well as some, but better than others - see videos). Photo: Diane Garrod

Photo: Diane Garrod

COVER STORY

Day 96: Enormous progress has been made and Skye (left) can now be in close proximity to resident dogs, Kody and Valor

Photo: Diane Garrod

seeking and scrounging less. We have achieved so much in only 55 days; it took less than three months to work through his extreme behaviors. Eating very close to other dogs has now been accomplished (see picture on page 17, bottom left). I dramatize the dog's name to make it fun, as can be seen in this video, Day 51 Skye. When you teach force-free, you look for automatic behavior. I had to chuckle as I have taught my extreme resource guarder to bring me his bones and Kongs when he has finished. At first it was ‘get it,’ ‘bring it,’ ‘drop it.’ Then it became a fun game. This is when triggers become irrelevant. Skye’s progress showed continuous results. He is now able to eat in same room with other dogs, to lie peacefully, to be calmly with other dogs without pacing, is sleeping deeply, and acclimating to our two parrots. He desensitized to wearing a harness and walks have transformed from being a struggle to get from point A to B to being an absolute joy for 2 miles. Dog, men, and car reactivity are all a thing of the past. Force-free teaching is more rewarding, longer lasting, and does not struggle to get results. Rather, it shows the dog what else to do without pain, force, or fear. Skye’s confidence has grown and he is doing Parkour, practicing Treibball, and has the potential to do any dog sport I might add from here. He can ride in a car without barking and It took less than three months to snarling at every dog and waits quiwork through Skye’s etly when alone in the car. He has (right) extreme behaviors; he is met many people in six months and now more relaxed, is tightly bonded to Carl. Dare I say, confident and responsive he is a joy to be around. He has stayed successfully many times with a pet sitter as we vacationed. We have not had one face biting incident, or any attempt since day one. Skye dodged euthanasia and quickly thrived with a force-free, positive reinforcement behavior change plan. He has become a thinking dog who can do mentally tiring problem-solving activities and make good decisions. Can dogs be rehabilitated? Yes! Once stress starts to be released the process often goes fairly quickly and smoothly as long as there is commitment, consistency, clarity and a systematic daily approach with specific goals and milestones. n Photo: Diane Garrod

The Bad (the pieces that would Day 137: Skye has become a thinking dog need a lot of focus and work): who can do mentally 1) Growling at Carl. tiring problem-solving activities and make 2) Lunging at Valor. good decisions The pros were definitely bigger than the cons and so it was clear by day three I could work Skye through his challenges. It is very important with aggression to see an eager worker. Is the dog biddable, picking things up quickly, and willing to learn new things? By day 38, Skye worked with his first boarder, a little dachshund named Willa as shown in this video, Day 38 Skye and boarder. Prior to this, Skye would have leapt in lunging and snarling if food was around, anywhere near, or if he thought another dog would get something before him. Resource guarding in the extreme had turned a corner. Was it gone? No, there would be isolated incidences, but it was no longer extreme. I realized at this point Skye was teacher dog potential. Skye was amazing with the boarder, a teacher dog in the making. By day 38 Skye was no longer pacing, not as tense and playfully happy. Acclimation to the house dogs was complete and he was initiating play for the first time as shown in this video, Happy playful Skye. By the 40th day, we started real life behavior modification. We were starting to see Skye's personality and it was playful, biddable and learning, and his thinking was fast. His nervous walking around the house sniffing for trouble, something to get into, to eat, or to guard was redirected by setting up increased resources, making play fun, and teaching him what to do instead. In this video, Bringing me bone, we were focusing on bringing a bone back, a process that would normally have caused face biting. After day 40, progress zoomed ahead, and it even became a little boring because the behaviors were not intense - or even present. We were doing a lot of shaping, capturing, and clicking and rewarding of behavior we wanted. Today I tear up thinking Skye would have been euthanized just six months ago. Today, Skye stands taller, carries himself better (no arch in his body, no tense muscles in his body or face), is more confident, more responsive, eager to work, brighter-eyed, and has a shinier coat. He is living without worry, not attention-

COVER STORY

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

COVER STORY References

Garrod, D. (2016, March). Let Sleeping Dogs Lie. BARKS from the Guild (17) 18-23. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.issuu .com/petprofessionalguild/docs/barks_from_the_guild_march _2016/18 Garrod, D. (Producer). (2015). First introduction same space [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=QwAmIhrdJ-A Garrod, D. (Producer). (2015). Copying head position [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=lV51igwKI6M Garrod, D. (Producer). (2015). Dog dog session - indoors - 6M only [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=0b8tJhSFmGE Garrod, D. (Producer). (2015). Acclimation day one to new home [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=bS3Ob2fx1IE Garrod, D. (Producer). (2015). Dog dog. Acclimation. Step one-2 [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=34PGDVv5T8c Garrod, D. (Producer). (2016). Day 38 Skye and boarder [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com /watch?v=HYP1ChMCZ6I Garrod, D. (Producer). (2016). Happy playful Skye [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com/watch?v =4W2LhSHPzg8

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Garrod, D. (Producer). (2016). DAY41 Bringing me bone [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com/watch ?v=scFe59vYlnc Garrod, D. (Producer). (2016). Day 51 Skye [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xa57W74lT1c

Resources

Canine Emotional Detox Stress Release for Challenging Canines: www.facebook.com/groups/565426020225858 Force Free Trainers - Solving the Aggression Puzzle: www .facebook.com/groups/429559543775183 Garrod, D. (Producer).YouTube Channel (more video of Skye and his progression): www.youtube.com/channel /UCUvQ2HCfmCF7vBfcdMW__0w Larlham, E. (Producer). Capturing Calm - how to train calmness in dogs [Video]. Retrieved July 12, 2016, from www.youtube .com/watch?v=wesm2OpE_2c Skye Blue Skies from Now on (Skyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Progress): www .facebook.com/skyemimiaustralianshepherd Diane Garrod PCT-A CA1 BSc is a certified American Treibball Association instructor, and a judge, charter member and marketing chair for the National Association of Treibball Enthusiasts. She is also the owner of Canine Transformations, www.caninetlc.com, based in Langley, Washington, where she conducts Treibball workshops, classes and private consults.

CANINE

Learning Frustration Tolerance

Barbara Wright suggests a number of approaches for raising tolerance levels in dogs easily

prone to frustrated behavior

re the tantrums driving you insane? If you have ever lived with a dog with poor frustration tolerance you will know that a lack of this skill can really make or break a happy life together. Often these dogs are sweet, happy, engaged and very bright, but when something frustrates them, they can “flip a switch” and “go mad,” so to speak. Scientifically, frustration is postulated as an underlying emotional factor that invigorates behavior when it is confronted with obstacles or deterrents blocking the attainment of some desired goal (Amsel & Roussel, 1952). Being able to accept that you cannot always have or do what you want when you want it is an extremely important skill when happily co-living in a social group, both for dogs and humans. One might argue that in dogs, a lack of frustration tolerance may be the cause for pets to become overly dependent on their owners and, hence, can often be a reason why dogs end up being relinquished. There is an urgency for pet owners and trainers alike to be aware of how to best prevent and deal with what might be termed as tantrums. The long-term solution is to train a dog to cope with frustration. Dogs that bark, howl, yelp, scratch doors, lunge, snap or often even react with aggression when they cannot have what they want or do what they want to do can be problematic for pet owners. By the time professional help is called in it is often very difficult to reverse this deficiency in tolerance and habit of “throwing tantrums.” The longer the tantrums have been going on, the more likely they have been reinforced here or there, which causes a vicious circle. This is especially so when a well-meaning owner is trying to ensure they do not reinforce the tantrum, but due to the fact that they live in the real world, the dog still wins every once in a while. Tantrums are not only going to get stronger (louder, longer and more persistent) but extinction as a strategy becomes less effective. Additionally, extinction bursts are often the breaking point of consistent training, which might yet increase the persistence and intensity of the tantrum (Amsel, 1971). Most people (including experienced trainers) who have lived with a dog lacking frustration tolerance in a real world home setting (e.g. including children, neighbors, a house that cannot get destroyed by the dog, a limitation of time etc.) will tell you that 100 percent consistency is just out of the question. How each individual deals with frustration is partly due to DNA. Surprisingly, there is little scientific data available (especially in research with dogs) on what causes some individuals to have a lack of frustration control versus others that are just naturally able to cope well with disappointment. Similarly, there is also only a limited amount of advice on how to teach and increase frustration tolerance. Like teaching children not to throw

Learning to accept they will not always be able to get what they want is a useful life skill for dogs to acquire

tantrums, teaching frustration tolerance to dogs seems to be best achieved by “parenting.” This requires constant reinforcing of boundaries and an environmental set-up to achieve repetitive experiences in self-control, dealing with disappointment, and reinforcement of acceptance of a disappointment. In other words, learning frustration tolerance is less of a training exercise but more developing a personal coping mechanism.

Related Behavior Problems

To teach our dogs to deal with frustration is important for their well-being in the long run. It is unfair not to prepare them for disappointment and the resulting frustration when, invariably in life, they will at times experience this. Also, repetitive frustration may cause further problems. For instance, there is scientific evidence that frustration and discomfort may affect social attachments (Brodbeck 1954; Fisher 1955), potentially causing much stronger dependency behavior (proximity seeking). Frustration, in particular, appears to exert a prominent motivational influence on the formation of excessive dependency between humans and dogs. Many unwanted behaviors associated with separation distress, such as incessant barking and destructiveness, appear to be motivated by “frustrative arousal.” So, as much as we have to teach dogs to learn to be on their own to prevent separation anxiety, a big part of this learning is coping with frustration altogether (Lindsay, 2001). Barrier and leash frustration is another common problem related to frustration tolerance. This is often started by situations when dogs, who are highly motivated to approach and investigate, are repeatedly prevented from doing so. Over time the dog can develop a Pavlovian response of frustration at the sight of BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

CANINE

another dog (Donaldson, 1996). Extended frustration periods and a lack of coping mechanism can lead to an inability to learn, anxiety and depression and, in the long run, impact heavily on the quality of life and well-being of our dogs.

• Lack of control. • Hunger or thirst. • Unexpected situations. • Alone time. When you understand what triggers are relevant for your dog, you will be able to prevent frustration when you cannot rePotential Causes of Poor Frustration Tolerance spond to it appropriately. Some triggers are part of the basic needs for a dog and it is our duty to ensure they do not become 1. Puppyhood Related*: the reason for unnecessary frustration. Other triggers, once • Lack of interaction with mom and sibling puppies (no identified, will give you a framework of situations for which you rule reinforcement, lack of social interaction and learning). should teach your dog a coping mechanism. • Lack of small experiences of disappointment/frustration The fourth life skill of the Life Skills for Puppies approach (e.g. milk abundance, natural weaning, too much freedom, no limi(Zulch & Mills, 2012) is, “I can’t do whatever I want to when I tations on social interaction etc.). *Breeders often note that singleton puppies tend to have difficulty want; I don’t expect to get everything I want when I want it.” A large component of this skill is self-control which, in its own dealing with frustrating situations (Blake, 2008;Warren, 2015). right, has a big impact on an individual’s frustration tolerance. Teaching your dog exercises like “leave it,” sitting for greetings, 2. Throughout a Dog’s Life: walking on a loose leash, waiting to be invited to go through • Lack of boundaries or inconsistent setting of bounddoors and again to grab a toy, are all going to massively impact aries. your dog’s frustration tolerance (Zulch & Mills, 2012). • Lack of reinforcement of desired behavior. To help puppies develop frustration tolerance and the ability • Expecting too much too quickly. to cope with disappointment a number of situations can be man• Too much physical restriction. ufactured: • Too little physical restriction. Once the puppy has learned to walk nicely on a leash, • Over catering and indulging. you can teach him to walk up to a desired item/person (start • Lack of experiences of disappointment leading to a lack with something easy). Walk close enough for him to notice it, but of coping mechanism. not within reach. Then wait for the puppy to relax and maybe look at you. At this point you encourage the puppy to walk away Creating Stronger Frustration Tolerance from the item. When he does, highly reinforce with a surprise Firstly, learn about what triggers frustration for your dog. Don’t treat or toy. Then walk back towards the desired item and reset him up for frustration unnecessarily, but make a list of the sitlease your puppy to have the item or interact with the person. uations you have observed and keep watching for the smallest Classically condition disappointments with a positive outcome; signs. All dogs are different and no two will have the exact same being prepared when these moments happen in real life and pairtriggers, but there are a few common ones to watch for: ing them with an unexpected positive experience is invaluable. • Physical restraint. Use food dispensing toys to teach your puppy to stay • Negative interactions (or perceived negative interaccalm and focused whilst struggling for something he wants and to tions). cope with having a reward delayed. • Tiredness and exhaustion. Teach him that attention is not always available and that • Boredom. he can amuse himself. - Teach your puppy to be physically removed from you (e.g. behind a barrier or in a crate). Start with very short absences and times. Ensure all your puppy’s needs are met (toys and chews, a comfortable place to lay down, water) and, at first, practice this when your dog is a bit tired and not hungry. The objective should be for the dog to learn to relax in the face of disappointment, rather than simply tolerate it in a state of expectation. This will not only make his immediate behavior more appropriate, but his welfare is also improved. In The Other End of the Leash, McConnell (2002) explains in detail how frustration derives from expectations and how teaching a dog to deal with disappointment is just not fun for owners. One needs to be Toys can be used to reinforce desirable behaviors as able to say “no” to a wish and deal with the consewell as provide puppies with something comforting/to keep them occupied when learning to spend time alone quences – saying “yes” and being the good guy is much

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

more pleasing. McConnell’s advice to increase your dog’s frustration tolerance is: Don’t always give in – make sure your dog regularly has to practice not getting what he wants when he demands it (e.g. don’t give in to every nudge for a pat). Increase your expectations as your puppy learns to control his emotions. Ensure your dog gets enough exercise and is not bored at home by supplying interactive toys and a stimulating environment Teach your dog the cue “enough” as a way for him to know when to disengage. Make sure you give your dog attention when it suits you, and not necessarily every time he demands it. Another aspect of developing your puppy’s frustration tolerance is teaching him to accept things he does not like but that he will still need to experience in his life. A good example is conditioning a puppy to enjoy being handled, restrained and groomed. By using high value rewards and slowly increasing the intensity of the handling, a puppy can soon learn that something that was initially a source of frustration is now a source of enjoyment. A ‘learn-to-earn’ set-up can help the dog owner stick to rules consistently and ensure they are not over-indulging their pet by catering to their every wish. By setting up a framework which not only reinforces self-control and delivers repetitive situations of low level frustration, the dog gets regular practice. More breeders and rescue organizations are including frustration tolerance in any personality assessments (ASPCA, n.d.) that are used to place dogs and puppies in best matched families. With this information a future owner has an understanding of current, identified behaviors and which need reinforcement or modification in the immediate future. This can set up adopters for success from the moment they get their puppy or dog home, increasing the chances that the dog is learning the skills it needs most. In the case of a dog being assessed with low frustration tolerance, this might ensure early intervention, thus avoiding the dog’s lack of coping mechanism to spiral out of control. Ultimately, teaching dogs to deal with frustration early in life (ideally as part of regular real world interactions) is the best approach to ensuring they can cope with disappointment and ensure their overall welfare and well-being. Ideally, teaching frustration tolerance should be part of every puppy program and training plan, as developing and teaching your dog coping strategies to deal with frustration requires time and practice. n Barbara Wright is an honors graduate of the Academy for Dog Trainers at the San Francisco SPCA. She recently moved from Sydney, Australia to Singapore and has joined PPG Singapore’s steering committee. She has completed the Certificate of Excellence – Living and Learning with Animals with Dr. Susan Friedman, and the Life Skills for Puppies course at Lincoln University, England and, in 2005 founded Positive Puppies in Sydney, directed the company until 2015 and is now a consultant there. In Singapore, Wright has recently joined the volunteer team of Animal Concerns Research & Education Society, www.acres.org.sg.

CANINE References

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. (n.d.). Meet Your Match. Retrieved July 16, 2016, from www .aspcapro.org/canine-ality Amsel, A. (1971). Frustration, Persistence and Regression. In Kimmel, H.D. (Ed). Experimental Psychopathology: Recent Research and Theory. New York, NY: Academic Press Amsel, A. & Roussel, J. (1952). Motivational proprieties of frustration: I. Effect on a running response of the addition of frustration to the motivational complex. Journal of Experimental Psychology (43) 363-368 Blake, M. (2008). The Dog Trainers’ Resource 2: The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Collection. Wenatchee, WA: Dogwise Publishing Brodbeck, A.J. (1954). An exploratory study on the acquisition of dependency behavior in puppies. Bulletin of the Ecological Society of America (35) 73 Donaldson, J. (1996). The Culture Clash. Berkeley, CA: James & Kenneth Fisher, A.E. (1955). The effects of early differential treatment on the social and exploratory behavior of puppies (unpublished doctoral dissertation). University Park, PA: Penn State University Press Lindsay, S. R. (2001). Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training,Volume 2. Ames, IA: Iowa State University Press McConnell, P. B. (2002). The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do around Dogs. New York, NY: Ballantine Books Warren, C. (2015). What the Dog Knows: Scent, Science, and the Amazing Ways Dogs Perceive the World. New York, NY: Touchstone Zulch, H., & Mills, D. S. (2012). Life Skills for Puppies: Laying the Foundation for a Loving, Lasting Relationship. Dorchester, UK: Hubble & Hattie

SUPPORT SYSTEMS TO HELP ON YOUR PATHWAY TO ACCREDITATION If you are an applicant in the system and on the road to accreditation, PPAB is here to help you be successful! THERE ARE A NUMBER OF TOOLS AT YOUR DISPOSAL: s The Examination Study Guide: www.credentialingboard.com/Study-Guide s The Case Study Template: www.credentialingboard.com/Case-Study-Information s The Video Review Form: www.credentialingboard.com/page-18095 s The Facebook Applicant Support Group - To join, email: Niki@credentialingboard.com s ABA Dictionary: www.credentialingboard.com/Dictionary BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

CANINE

The Language of Resource Guarding

Angelica Steinker discusses how to identify dog body language consistent with

This dog’s stiff body language indicates stress, and the raised lip, hard stare, and wide stance are all warnings not to approach (she is growling too). Resource guarding food dishes is common in canine behavior

Photo: Melissa Hagood

esource guarding is common in canine behavior, and refers to a dog attempting to physically protect his possession of a resource. This resource can be one of many things including: • Food. • Food bowl. • Treats. • Chew toy. • Push toy. • Bed. It can even include things like a specific location or area and, of course, dogs may also resource guard people or other dogs. This article aims to address a specific aspect of resource guarding: What does it look like? How do you know a dog is resource guarding? If you can identify that a dog is resource guarding, then this is a huge step to preventing a dog bite. The dog in the picture (above left) is resource guarding her food dish. This is probably the most common situation in which resource guarding occurs. There are many clues in her body language to This dog is guarding convey that she is the toy; there are many resource guarding: red flags including the hard eye contact and 1. Head is the back leg stance, ready to pounce lowered over the

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

This dog is showing signs of resource guarding his toy, including his wide eyes and tight mouth

food bowl. 2. Corners of her mouth are pulled forward. 3. She has stopped eating. 4. She is growling (not something you can see, but part of canine communication no less). 5. Her front legs are spread apart in a stance preparing her for pouncing or lunging. 6. Her back is curved in a hunched fashion (unseen). 7. She is staring hard at the “interloper,” which, in canine language, is a sign of hostility. 8. Her tail is tucked (unseen). When you look at each part of this dog’s body it becomes very obvious that she is stressed, and worried that her food will be taken from her. Resource guarding behavior is especially common in stray dogs that have experienced starvation (which, incidentally, is the case for the dog in the picture, who was found starving on the street). Border collies are one of my favorite breeds and I will always have at least one as a pet, but they are wellknown for having resource guarding issues. In the picLike the border collie above, this dog is doing a 90 ture (above right), degree head turn, a distance increasing warning you can see a borbehavior. She is guarding the bone but it is easy der collie guarding to see how such signals could be missed, especially by children his disc from anPhoto: Melissa Hagood

Photo: Susan Nilson

resource guarding

other dog. Again, we can break down each part of the dog’s body that is visible in the photo. 1. His eyes are oriented to and keeping track of the other dog. 2. His eyes are wide, a sign of arousal/stress. 3. His mouth is tight from holding onto his resource as best as he can. 4. He is displaying the typical 90-degree head turn that is consistent with distance increasing warning behavior. 5. He is moving away from the other dog (not pictured). 6. He has the beginnings of a piloerection, i.e. the hair on his back is standing on end. This is not necessarily a sign of stress and can just indicate arousal but, given the context, it is clearly something to pay attention to. The Dachshund in the picture (opposite page, bottom left) is resource guarding a toy. We can again look at all parts of her body and identify the clues: 1. Eye contact with the person she is guarding the toy from, and also the person who is taking the picture. 2. Corners of the mouth pulled forward. 3. Use of the front legs to stand on and hold down the toy. 4. Widened hind leg stance preparing to pounce. 5. The body is stiff in general and the spine is straight. This is a big red flag. You can see how some of these body language signals could be missed if someone does not know what to look for, how to read the signs, or simply is not paying attention. It is also easy to understand how this kind of body language could be seen as play as opposed to resource guarding. If you are not sure if the dog you are working with is displaying actual resource guarding or playful resource guarding, assume it is actual resource guarding. It is always best to err on the side of caution. The dog in the picture (opposite page, bottom right) is resource guarding a bone. Here are the clues: 1. Eye orientation to the human the bone is being guarded from, who again is taking the picture. 2. Laying down and hiding behind the bush. 3. 90-degree head turn toward the person she is guarding the bone from. 4. Tight mouth. The picture really helps us understand how easy it could be to miss resource guarding. A child playing in the yard with this

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dog would most likely have no idea what is happening. Even adults may mistakenly think this dog is laying in the shade relaxing, rather than correctly identifying the resource guarding. Now that you have a better understanding of how to identify resource guarding, what do you do to resolve this problem? Professionals use a simple protocol of systematic desensitization and counterconditioning. Well-known canine behavior expert Jean Donaldson describes the process in detail in her excellent book, Mine!. If you are a pet owner, use the Pet Professional Guild trainer locator search to find a trainer who can help you. Most dogs only need one or two sessions to learn new behaviors that replace the resource guarding. n

References

Donaldson, J. (2002). Mine! - A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs. Wenatchee, WA: Dogwise Publishing McConnell, P. (2013, May). Resource Guarding: Treatment and Prevention. The Other End of the Leash. Retrieved July 4, 2016, from www.patriciamcconnell.com /theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-treatment-and -prevention Orr, J., & Lewin, T. (2012, November). Kids and Dogs: Resource Guarding. BARKS from the Guild (3). Retrieved July 4, 2016, from www.issuu.com/petprofessionalguild/docs/barks_from_the _guild_november_2012/14?e=4452575/2197515 Pet Professional Guild. (2015).Understanding Resource Guarding & Knowing When to Seek Help! Pet Professional Guild Educational Handout #5. Retrieved July 4, 2016, from www.petprofessionalguild.com/resources/Documents /Advocacy%20Handouts/Handout%205%20Understanding %20Resource%20Guarding.pdf

Resources

Pet Professional Guild Members’ Directory: www. petprofessionalguild.com/Zip-Code-Search

Angelica Steinker PCBC-A owns and operates Courteous Canine, Inc. DogSmith of Tampa, www.courteouscanine .com/Florida, a full service pet business and dog school specializing in aggression and dog sports. She is the national director of training for DogSmith Services, www.dogsmith.com, and cofounder of DogNostics Career College, www .dognosticselearning.com.

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BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

YES!

CANINE

A Lifelong Bond

Tammy Weaver relates her own experiences of so-called littermate syndrome and what she has learned over the years about sharing her life with canine siblings

Siblings (left to right) Gretchen, Quercus and Bruiser were a challenge for author Tammy Weaver when she first adopted them

found the article on littermate syndrome (The Unbreakable Bond, BARKS from the Guild, May 2016, p. 20) very interesting as I have owned dogs from the same litter for over 20 years. When I received the issue of BARKS in the mail and saw the article featured on the cover, I went straight to it as I had never heard of ‘littermate syndrome’ before or seen anything written about it. Even my veterinarian had never brought it up. As such, I would like to share my personal experiences with adopting littermates, as many of them agree with the article--and others not so much. I would like to say first that all of the littermates I have lived with were (and are) German shepherds. The first two were white German shepherds who were brothers, Zeus and Thor. I got them for my birthday six months after moving to the country and we had 13 acres of property (11 acres purchased just for dogs!) The dogs were definitely bonded but also independent. There was an incident when they were about three months old and I had taken them out for the last bathroom break of the night. The house was at the top of a hill with about 50 feet of yard before the woods started and a large field at the bottom. It was fall and something was coming towards us fast, rustling through the leaves snarling, growling and screaming. It sounded like it meant business! I was terrified to say the least, and the puppies were glued to the patio door trying to get inside. We all got back into the house as fast as possible, and I didn’t find out until years later that it was a bobcat. I wonder if it was going for the puppies? I always thought the dogs stuck together as a result 26

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

of that incident until I read the article in BARKS, which put a new spin on it for me. As the dogs got bigger they ran the property both together and alone, with one lying in the yard while the other explored the field or wherever. They had the best recall I have ever seen, no matter what they were doing or how far off they were. What I did not realize then was I was practicing positive reinforcement with them – a reward every time they came when called. As they grew into young adults they started to “fight” with each other. I had them both neutered at the age of six months, long before the fighting started. It became so intense I began to wonder if I had made a mistake by getting two male dogs. I asked my veterinarian about it and he asked me if they were hurting each other. I said ‘no,’ but the behavior involved them both standing on their hind legs, holding each other like bears with teeth bared, snarling, snapping and growling to the point of almost roaring. The veterinarian told me not to worry about it, that they were just playing and figuring out who was in charge. Ignorance is bliss so I didn’t worry about it (nothing bad ever did happen, thank goodness!) I now know that this is known as ritualization. The dogs did it every now and then but when they reached weights of 120 pounds each it was quite the sight. After about three years it completely stopped. Both of the dogs loved our cats, who were all outdoor cats, 100 percent drop-offs that would show up on any given day. If they stayed I had them desexed and would feed them. Many were pregnant when they turned up so there were kittens pretty

much every spring. For the Brothers Thor (left) and Zeus had a most part, cats and dogs all deep lifelong bond went to the vet at the same and when Zeus time. It was only when I had passed,Thor would spend time looking to take Zeus one time and for him Thor didn’t need to go that I realized how “attached” they were. I did not know then what separation anxiety was. I just thought Thor was jealous that Zeus got to go for a ride and he didn’t, but my husband at the time said he “carried on” the whole time we were gone. When the dogs were separated, that is just how it was. It didn’t happen very much though and they were wonderful dogs as adults, friendly to everyone (except burglars – their huge deep barks actually stopped two attempted break-ins). Zeus was the first to pass, apparently of heart failure. Thor was depressed about losing his brother and the hardest part for me was when he would look for him. The two dogs used to play hide and seek with each other around their doghouse/pen and the shed, chasing each other in giant figures-of-eight. They had great fun with that game and, after Zeus died, Thor would go out and appear to stalk ‘Zeus’ around the shed or pen but, of course, he was never there. It brought me to tears every time so I had to stop watching. He stopped doing it after a while but he was more ‘clingy’ and stayed closer to the house than he had when they were together. Fortunately, he did not get destructive, or howl or cry or whine; he just seemed less confident and rather lonely. I remember one time I let him outside from the patio door early one morning and there was a thin fog in the woods with the rays of the sun just shining through. Maybe 30 feet from us was an enormous buck with a huge rack. Thor looked up at him and I was immediately concerned. The buck was snorting and steam was coming from his nose because the air was so crisp, and here was Thor who weighed in at 120+ pounds with a deer in his yard. They sized each other up while I just stood there waiting for something to happen. Finally, Thor walked over to a tree to urinate, looked at the deer, then turned around and walked back to the house. I remember thinking that if Zeus had been there the chase would have been on. At times like that Thor seemed less confident, but maybe he was just smart enough to think through the scenario before acting on impulse. After Thor passed it was eventually time for more pups. My ex found a good breeder and we signed up for two male red German shepherd pups. We made our pick and my sister and I went to get them when they were eight weeks old. It so happened that there was one long-haired female left that no one wanted because she was a face biter. That didn’t deter me one bit and I came home with all three puppies. Their names were Bruiser, Quercus and Gretchen. It was nothing at all like the last

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time. This was a whole new way of relating – these puppies were crazy! Zeus and Thor never destroyed a single toy their whole lives. Their toys were like their babies; now their ‘babies’ were lying slaughtered all over the floor, with stuffing everywhere. The breeder had said the dogs would follow me when I took them outside for their bathroom breaks. However, when I took them out the first time all three took off in different directions. Oh my goodness, what had I done? I took them to the vet for their shots and the vet told me, “Now you don’t just have a couple of dogs... you’re going to have to really socialize them.” So that is exactly what I did. We went every weekend into the city parks and met people and children and visited new places, and although all three went in the Jeep with me, they met people and walked individually. All three were very social and none of them minded being separated from each other. Everybody had to wait their turn for things – one at a time – not everyone got to go every time. I took one dog out at a time to teach them how to play Frisbee and one at a time to train. That made a huge difference. In fact it made THE difference. And they liked other dogs – or just ignored them. Currently, the only dog I have left is Gretchen who is soon going to be 10 years old and is a therapy dog. As per the original article in BARKS, I would not recommend littermates for a new dog owner. It could be overwhelming and potentially even disastrous. The time and effort it requires to do a good job at raising them is tremendous. My advice is to stick with a single puppy. For those who are experienced and willing to put in the time and effort to do it right though, the rewards can be immense. n

References

Szabo, A. (2016, May). The Unbreakable Bond. BARKS from the Guild (18) 20-21. Retrieved July 8, 2016, from www.issuu.com /petprofessionalguild/docs/barks_from_the_guild_may_2016/20 Tammy Weaver ABCDT graduated from Animal Behavior College (ABC) in September 2015 with honors and has since started her own part-time business, Best Friends Furever K9 Academy LLC, www.bffurever.com, based in Stow, Ohio. She currently conducts private training for obedience and behavior problems as well as puppy training and socialization. Aside from working a full-time job, she is pursuing further certification, including with Sarah Whitehead of the Clever Dog Company in the UK. She is also certified through the Red Cross and ABC for CPR and canine first aid.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

CANINE

Hitting the Trails

In the first of a two-part feature, Morag Heirs delves into the world of canicross and why it is

Jake and Skye enjoying the increasingly popular sport of canicrossing

Photo: Steve Cutler

an excellent option for deaf dogs

Author Morag Heirs with Freya, Farah and Bronte

anicross is just one of a whole range of ‘canisports’ including traditional sled dog activities (mushing), bike-joring, ski-joring and more. The key feature of each sport is the inclusion of one or more dogs in special harnesses, attached to a waist belt with bungee in the case of running (canicross) or ski-ing (ski-joring) or onto a mountain bike (bike-joring). The dog or dogs are actively encouraged to pull ahead and give you a bit of help. I take part regularly in half and full trail marathon races with my dogs all the way up to our first ultra (32 miles) and we are currently training for a 55-mile trail race in March 2017. I have been determined to share the fun of the sport, and have organized small starter sessions for several years. I am now looking forward to launching my very own canicross club. This article is not a complete guide and there is plenty more to be added, but it should give you an introduction to the sport and how to adapt certain things for deaf dogs. Safety note: Running in harness at human speed is quite different to the kinds of running that dogs do off leash, so please consider a thorough vet check before starting and follow a good couch to 5-kilometer type training plan even if you already run frequently.

Staffie Moss models a harness commonly used in canicross

Photo: Siân Baxter

Getting Started

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

I remember reading a small column in a regular fitness magazine back in 2007 and being immediately interested. As a keen hill walker in Scotland, I had resorted to clipping my dogs’ leads to the waist belt of my rucksack on steep rocky ground when I needed my hands free, so the logical step of running with dog power really appealed. At the time I shared my home with Finn, a tri-color collie with various fear related behavioral problems, and Farah, a young deaf blue merle collie. Both dogs were very active and I felt canicross would be a good way to harness some of that energy, and give us a more relaxed way to enjoy the often sheep-covered mountains of Scotland. Since then I have canicrossed with all my dogs including Bronte, a deaf and part-blind red merle collie. The canicross scene was very small back then, and events were based in the south of England – at least an eight-hour drive away. I used what equipment I could find (an old climbing belt, home-made bungees and Ruffwear Webmaster harnesses) and started to try it out on my own first in Scotland and then later in North Yorkshire. It is one of the real joys of the sport for me once you have sorted some basic kit for you and your dog, just get out that front door and start! Local groups are springing up and offer a great chance to test out kit, but with the plethora of online shops it is even easier to get started on your own. Now there is a vibrant canicross and canisports scene across

the UK, with Scotland in particular hosting a whole range of dedicated events through CaniSports Scotland and CaniFit. Many race series are now allowing competitors to enter with dogs (e.g. Hardmoors Trail Marathon Series, North Yorkshire, England) and some even have a separate class for canicrossers (Brutal Events). There are even franchises offering canicross classes and dog-running services. Canicross in Europe is flourishing and has a fiercely competitive side for those who want to get involved with European races and stage events like the famous Trophée des Montagnes. The USA is home to a small but growing canicross community and runners often visit the British and European Facebook pages to connect with other people. I have spoken with canicrossers in Australia and beyond too - the word is spreading!

Equipment

Just another of the great things about canicross is that the sport encourages people to use sport specific harnesses as soon as possible. There is absolutely no place for prong or check collars, and flexi-leads are irrelevant. Some people may run their dog in a harness but with a headcollar and light leash attached for emergency control. However, this lead should be loose at all times. Most races have rules about correctly fitting harnesses, bungee leads and forbid the use of anti-pull devices. If a muzzle is worn, it must be of the basket type/racing greyhound style to allow full panting and drinking, of course. The harnesses used for canicross are different to normal ‘walking’ harnesses due to the design around the chest (allows free movement of the shoulders) and the attachment point being further down the spine (to give a better angle when the dog pulls). There are plenty of different styles to choose from and it is important to try them out on your dog to ensure there is no unwanted restriction. We tend to use a lot of Euro DC Short style harnesses in our starter sessions, with some of the bigger dogs doing better in X-back style harnesses. Using a waist belt for the human partner is essential to avoid injury. The waist belt should be fitted to sit low on the hips rather than pulling through the lower back/kidney regions. Integral bungees can reduce impact from sudden pulling. Again there are numerous varieties. I prefer the Kisi Lightweight belt which never interferes with my movement and is made from lightweight foam. Women in particular will want to check the belt can accommodate the female hip shape as some styles are definitely designed for men. A strong bungee line connects dog to human. This needs to be robust and the length will depend on the terrain and activity.

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In the UK, the ParkRun (free timed 5-kilometer races) series stipulate a shorter length than you would normally use in a trail run so do check your planned event. Harness Selection - Every dog is unique! is a useful article looking at the different options available, including a video explaining how to choose the right harness.

Deaf Dogs and Canicross

Right from the beginning, when I managed to attend any of the canicross races, I was delighted to find that deaf dogs were made very welcome. In fact, there was often at least one other deaf dog racing (usually a Dalmatian), and people just assumed it would not be a problem - a refreshing change from our experiences in some other dog sports. Although many deaf dogs can and do go off lead safely, the canicross kit makes it easier to manage a dog who needs to be on leash for large parts of trail walks. While some people find it easier to run a deaf dog alongside a hearing companion, this is certainly not essential and the next part of this article will concentrate on training tips to help your deafie enjoy the run. n

The second part of this article will explore in detail how to train a deaf dog for canicrossing, and provide video links to some of the techniques. Morag Heirs PhD MSc MA(SocSci)(Hons) PGCAP human and canine remedial massage therapist, is a companion animal behavior counselor who runs Well Connected Canine, www.wellconnectedcanine.co.uk, in York, UK. She works with deaf and blind dogs professionally, provides training and support for the Deaf Dog Network and is the behaviorist for Sheffield Animal Centre (RSPCA) and York & District RSPCA branches in the UK.

Resources

ARION Cup and Canicross: www.arionpetfood.com/en /arion-cup Canicross Trailrunners: www.canicross.org.uk and www .facebook.com/canicross.trailrunners CaniSports Scotland: www.canisportsscotland.wordpress.com Canix: www.canix.co.uk Fédération des Sports et Loisirs Canins: www.fslc-canicross.net International Federation of Sleddog Sports: www .sleddogsport.net K9 Trail Times Harness Selection: Harness Selection - Every dog is unique! Retrieved August 7, 2016, from www.k9trailtime.com /information/team-thomas-harnesses

www.tawzerdog.com BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

TRAINING

The Value of the Emergency Stop

Jo Park discusses her appreciation of emergency recalls being taught in pet manners classes

Photo 1: Start by having the dog walk next to you on a loose leash

Photo 2: Jump in the air and say ‘stop’

recently I had a potent reminder of the value of planning ahead, of having a strong recall, and the importance of an emergency stop, and how essential it is to continue to use a combination of both verbal instruction and hand signals. What prompted this article is a complete appreciation of the training I have had through the Canine Behavioural School in Adelaide, South Australia that, in an emergency situation, made it second nature for me to use a clear hand signal and a simple and direct verbal cue when there was no other action I could take. If I had not used both the verbal cue and the clear hand signal, this would most likely have been the tragic story of a young red heeler whose guardian was ill-prepared for the danger that presented when his young dog ran out of a park gate and started to cross a busy suburban street. As it happened, the young dog ran straight towards me and my dog, Bailey, as we walked on the opposite side of the street. I should add that Bailey has fear reactive aggression. As I watched the gorgeous young red heeler run across the street, the only thing I could think of was the training PPG steering committee member Debra Millikan had given us recently for the “emergency stop,” as taught through the Pet Dog Ambassador (PDA) program. Bailey has an excellent drop which I use for his emergency stop. However, the heeler was a different story. I did not know this dog or what sort of training she might have had. With the owner failing to recall his dog or get her attention, the only thing I could think to do was replicate our recent training and raise my hand into a "stop" or "stay" position. At the same time, I decisively said "stop," half to the oncoming truck. Realizing there was not enough time for the truck to slow down, I redirected a firm "stop," with my hand still raised, to the young dog. Fortunately, she got the idea and stopped in the middle of the road as the 30

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Photo 3: Allow the dog to drift in front of you

Photo 4: Jump again and say ‘stop’

truck passed between us. I believe that the two cues of voice and body language combined helped the dog understand what I wanted. That and a lot of luck. I cannot think what else to say but to thank Debra Millikan for the training Bailey and I have had, and to encourage everyone to keep educating students about the value of planning ahead, recall, emergency stops, using a combination of hand and verbal signals, and to not become too reliant on verbal cues over hand signals. In an emergency situation, you want to be able to draw on all of the tools you have available to be able to communicate clearly, because it really can be a matter of life and death. Let’s now pull this apart into some key usable components.

Prevention is Better than Cure

Many situations can be avoided if we remember to plan ahead, observe the environment around us, and respond accordingly. In my training classes I like to share something that Bailey’s breeder told me when I asked her if she had any training tips: “Absolutely!” she said, “Always set your dog up for success.” There are many other recommendations I recall, like: “Keep training sessions fun,” and “Always finish a training session on a high,” (although there are some who say that it really does not matter). What I have come to understand is that this first tip applies equally to humans as, when you are out and about in a changing and sometimes unpredictable environment, it is essential that you set yourself up for success too. Planning ahead will help you do this, and it is so simple. If your dog can get distracted by other dogs, bikes, people walking by, seagulls (boy do I know this one!) or [insert your dog’s distraction here], be aware of your surroundings and, if that distraction is present, be prepared. Happily call your dog towards you before he spots his favorite distraction, then reinforce him for his

TRAINING

great recall.You can then slip your dog onto his leash (either short or long) until the distraction has gone, or use it as a great training opportunity: Distraction = bar is open (thank you, Jean Donaldson). (Donaldson, 2009). But we cannot predict everything, and that is when preparation is key. We should not rely on luck. Instead, let’s focus on the emergency stop and how to teach it.

Teaching an Emergency Stop

These are the steps I have used through the PDA program to help teach Bailey an emergency stop: 1 – I start off by walking along with Bailey on a loose 2-yard leash next to me (see photo 1, opposite page, top left). 2 – When walking along, I lightly jump in the air and say, “stop.” The jump immediately gets Bailey’s attention and the stop happens naturally as he turns to look at me (see photo 2, opposite page, second left). 3 – I reward Bailey for the stop and repeat this activity a few times until he is consistently stopping within approximately two seconds. The next stage is to start getting Bailey used to stopping when he is not by my side. To begin this process, we do the following: 4 – With Bailey still on a loose 2-yard leash, this time I let him drift in front of me as we walk together (see photo 3, opposite page, third left). 5 - When he is a few steps in front of me, I again jump in the air and at the same time say, “stop.” Reward in position. At this point you may want to start introducing a hand signal too (see photo 4, opposite page, top right, and photo 5, this page, top). 6 – When Bailey stops within a few steps, I walk to him, reward him and at the same time gently take hold of his collar underneath his chin. When this becomes a nice consistent stop and I can see that he is definitely responding to the word “stop” and not just the jump, I start progressing onto a long line. In the first instance I use a 5-yard-long leash and then progress to a 10-yard leash. 7 - On a long leash the steps are the same, I am simply increasing the distance (see photos this page, second and third from top). Each time when Bailey stops I can either choose to walk over to him or recall him before gently taking hold of his collar under his chin and giving him his reward (see photo this page, bottom). The PDA program outlines the following as key things to achieve when teaching the emergency stop to your dog: The leash must remain loose at all times. At first your dog must stop within two-five seconds (on a 5-yard leash) and then progress to within three seconds (on a 10-yard leash). Your dog must remain in position until recalled or you return to your dog and take the collar. The collar is to be taken under the dog’s chin or to the side of the head, NOT over the top of the head. As you progress it is also important to practice the emergency stop under different scenarios such as having your dog coming towards you, or under distraction as there are plenty of

Photo 5: Reward in position

Photo 6: Let the dog walk in front of you, then say ‘stop’ and give your hand signal

Photo 7: Bailey, now responding to the cue and the hand signal, stops

Photo 8: You can either walk to the dog to give him his reward, or recall him

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

TRAINING

scenarios in which this may be required, including the scenario I found myself at the beginning of this article. Using a hand signal here is also invaluable. Practicing in different scenarios also helps to proof the cued behavior.

Tone and Body Language Are Important

When saying “stop,” use a confident tone - clear, calm but with conviction, and with good volume. Project your voice. This will do several things. Firstly, it will help teach you to have a voice when you need it in an emergency situation. Secondly, it is the voice you are going to want to use (or instinctively will use) in a bad situation and it can become part of the cue. We want your dog to recognize the cue and understand it. Thirdly, projecting your voice will help grab your dog’s attention. And last, but not least, your energy levels will also change when faced with a situation where you need to use the emergency stop, and this can also be something to attract your dog’s attention. Learning an emergency stop is an invaluable tool to help prepare for everyday situations where quick thinking is essential. It does not just prepare the dog for an emergency situation, but prepares the owner too. I am so thankful for what I learned through the Canine Behavioral School and the PDA program. It

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BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

most likely saved that young red heeler’s life. Whilst I hope you never need to use it, I do hope you and your dog have a lot of fun together as you prepare for whatever life may throw your way. n

References

Donaldson, J. (2009). Dogs are from Neptune. Wenatchee WA: Dogwise Publishing Pet Dog Ambassador. (2016). Emergency Stop. Assessment Markers: Level 2 Exercise 7, Level 3 Exercise 6, Level 4 Exercise 4. Retrieved July 17, 2016 from www.issuu.com/petprofessionalguild/docs/pda_assesment_markers/1?e=4452575/35347753

Resources

Pet Dog Ambassador: www.petdogambassador.com/Home

Jo Park has a Bachelor of Applied Science in conservation and park management. She and her dog Bailey joined Canine Behavioural School, www.caninebehaviouralschool.com.au, in Adelaide, Australia in 2012 initially as students and, later that year, she became a volunteer assistant and continues to enjoy the one-on-one attention and trouble shooting she can provide to students in class.

Reaching a Plateau

TRAINING

In the first part of this two-part feature, Kama Brown compiles a list of pre-foundation behaviors to help improve focus and avoid frustration Toys, treats, games and choices are all ways of teaching a dog to have better focus

eginning obedience skills are usually what come to mind when owners ask for foundation dog training. Though many dog trainers already know the benefits of spending the majority of time training life skills such as polite greetings, leash walking and going to a mat, there is another set of skills that are easily overlooked in a class or private setting that can raise the success of all other training. There is often a plateau point that seems to keep dogs and puppies that were excelling in puppy and novice class from reaching the same level of focus and cue response out and about with their owners. So often owners who were thrilled with how their 10-12-week-old responded to positive reinforcement, are frustrated and exhausted with the behaviors of their 10-12month-old. The same thing can happen with a newly adopted dog; the beginning starts out really well but the progress halts at a certain point a few months later. To counteract this, I have compiled a list of pre-foundation behaviors that pet dog owners can teach their dogs early on to avoid the “adolescent plateau” later. These are behaviors I find more useful than obedience when starting a new dog or puppy. I will briefly explain how to introduce each concept and the benefits it offers for long-term success. As mentioned above, this will be a two-part article and I have separated the training skills into four categories. I will focus on the first two in this article and the second two in Part II: Skills that build owner focus. Skills that prevent frustration. Skills that teach delayed reinforcement. Skills that support physical health.

Daily dog walks can be made more interesting for the dog by asking him to interact with his environment, such as stand on a rock or weave around a tree

Skills that Build Owner Focus

Often, owners are really looking to keep their dog’s attention without having the skills to do so. Adolescent dogs in particular will soon begin to choose environmental stimuli over their owner if games are not implemented. Encourage owners to be spontaneous and fun, engaging the dog in a variety of new and interesting ways. Dogs love movement and they give great focus to novelty. Learning to use different treats, toys, and ways of praising dogs are all useful for dog owners to know.

Finding Their Hidden Owner: An extra person the dog knows and likes is needed to teach this game. The trusted person will hold the leash while the owner walks away but hides close by. The dog should be able to watch while his owner is hiding. As the dog is looking towards the direction of his owner who walked away, the person should give the dog the full length of the leash and ask him to find his owner. The person should follow the dog at the dog’s pace and when he runs to the hidden owner, the owner should praise the dog and give him treats. As the dog ages, the owners should hide farther and farther away, have the dog wait longer periods of time before being told to find his owner, have the dog practice other cues such as spin or backup before searching, have the dog hold a sit/stay while the owner hides, and ask the dog to find his owner in new and busy environments. Urban Agility: Owners can build focus and make walks more interesting by asking the dog to crawl under benches, circle around trees, climb on top of rocks, and weave between tables. BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

TRAINING

Asking the dog to wait or perform the behavior from a distance while practicing around other dogs and people will advance the game. An attentive owner will create an attentive dog faster than an owner who is paying attention to something else. Walking this way makes it less likely the owner will be on their phone or be surprised by something in the environment.

How to Follow a Treat that Has Been Thrown: Starting with the dog on or off leash, drop a few treats on the ground to the left and point them out for the dog. Next, drop treats to the right and point them out to the dog. Continue pointing the treats out until the dog is readily watching your hands and they begin dropping their head towards the ground when you have let the treats go. Next, begin to roll or toss the treats 3-5 feet away from you on the left side. Once the dog is happily trotting off towards the treat and happily returning to see what is next, toss the treat to the right side 3-5 feet away. Then begin walking and moving while tossing treats. The dog should happily follow the treat and then return to have the next treat thrown. This skill has many advantages. It builds owner focus and reduces frustration. The dog is no longer ignoring the owner or staring at the owner, throwing out behaviors and waiting for the next cue. The dogs will need this skill for learning “four on the floor” and “loose leash walking.” Following a treat is purposeful in getting the dog to move away from potential upsets or confrontations with other people or dogs. Following a treat is often used in reversing and avoiding resource guarding, teaching a “leave it” and “drop it” cue. Chasing thrown treats is fun for many dogs and adds value, especially when using it for recall or other fast moving games.

A Basic Search Cue: This comes pretty easily after learning that treats are on the ground. Starting indoors, with the treat just a few feet away and while the dog can see it; ask the dog to find the treat. Gradually build the distance and difficulty of the search while the dog practices a nice “wait” behavior. Eventually, take the game outside, around other distractions and in new environments. Dogs gain good owner focus as they watch you intently hiding their stuff and tire themselves out in the process. Enrichment games are just as important to a dog’s life as physical Searching games are an ideal way to add enrichment to a dog’s day and the mental stimulation can help tire them out

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

exercise is, and they hold the added benefit of strengthening the reinforcement value of the owner.

Games that Teach Delayed Treat Delivery

I consider delayed reinforcement delivery to be the building block of duration and distance work. The reinforcement process must still begin within three seconds to mark the behavior, though the process of delivery and the anticipation of receiving the reward can take much longer. Anticipation is also reinforcing to the dog. Waiting Patiently for the Treat to Be Delivered from Another Spot: I start this one fairly quickly in my classes. Owners are given a station where they can leave their treats. Dogs are trained 5-10 feet away from the station and given a cue they already know. The owner can then mark the behavior and begin walking over to the treat station to reward. I find this a vital early lesson because it takes the frantic feeling away; it slows the owner down and allows the dog to begin understanding delayed reinforcement. As long as the owner is marking the behavior within three seconds, they are able to slowly move towards the station without worrying that they have not been fast enough. They can take this time to talk to their dog and stay focused on the new skills they are learning in class. When owners feel rushed by treat delivery, they often have a hard time learning the rest of the lesson. I consider this the most important foundation skill for the owner to preventing the plateau later on.

To Ask for Help: Lock treats in a kennel and allow the dog to work at getting them out until he looks back at the owner. Mark the moment the dog looks for help and walk over and open the kennel and give them a treat from inside. The treats should be very high value. Repeat this, each time walking away a little further and asking for the dog to look a little longer at the owner until marking and walking back towards the kennel to release a treat. The owner should be encouraged to tell the dog how wonderful he is while walking back to the kennel. The dog will begin to understand that verbal praise while walking is the start of the treat delivery sequence.

Using food in toys creates value in the toys - even when they are empty

Eventually, work up towards a dog who sees the problem and after a few seconds goes to find the owner and look at them for help. This is a great foundation skill for preventing counter surfing, digging at toys stuck underneath furniture and creating owner focus while preventing frustration. It is an essential foundation skill for reactive and shy dogs. I always engage my dogs whenever they ask for “help” whether it is because they want something out of another room (the toys are in the garage) or because they want to chase a squirrel. Usually my dogs will see the squirrel, back up and look at me, which I then try as often as possible to reward by taking them over to sniff the area. Do whatever possible not to reinforce barking. If the dog is barking, the frustration or excitement level may be too high. Reward the dog earlier or be less animated with verbal praise.

Settling without Engagement: There should be a cue that tells the dog nothing is going to happen. I usually prefer that cue to be me giving the dog a good length of leash and then stepping on the rest of it. When owners come to class, I show them all how to be a tether for their dog. I offer the dogs a food toy or a calming pat and then disengage with them.

It is useful for dogs to know when nothing is going to happen so they can settle without expecting engagement

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TRAINING

How to Get Food out of a Toy: Using food in toys creates value in the toys, value in the process of watching the owner fill them (focus), value when they are empty but being picked up (anticipatory reinforcement), and creates a unique way to reinforce the dog with food without presenting the food first. They can be used to add duration to many behaviors, such as staying calm around house guests, riding in the car quietly, ignoring strange things or a safe way to have children reinforce the dog.

Coming When Called Away from Objects and Past Other Dogs: While fun objects and other dogs are around, I keep the dog on a 25-foot long line and practice calling him and then throwing a treat in the opposite direction while also moving away. This game builds speed and dogs have an easier time focusing on objects that are moving versus non-moving. Owners should be taught that movement is given priority for a young dog’s attention, so all early training should require moving toys, treats or humans as part of the reinforcement. Using the long line allows owners a chance to practice managing the environment to create strong training skills. n

Part II of this article will continue with a list of skills that prevent frustration and support physical health

Kama Brown CPDT-KA lives and works in St. Louis, Missouri and has been training dogs since 2008. She currently owns a boarding/training/grooming business with her husband and spends her weekends promoting the use of scent work and enrichment in training. She also teaches classes for competitive dog sports and overly-reactive dogs. She is a failed foster mom to three big, black dogs and an active member of her local SAR group.

* Order a monthly box of dog goodies for your canine friend! * Special rates available for gifts for dog friends * A portion of proceeds from each box will go to help dogs in need The promocode can be found in the Member Area of the PPG website: www.PetProfessionalGuild.com /benefitinformation www.barkbox.com BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

TRAINING

The Benefits of Tracking

Ewa Highland looks into using tracking as part of your ABC when working with unwanted behaviors in dogs

s professionals, we are all, hopefully, looking at our ABC (Antecedent - Behavior – Consequence) when helping clients with tricky behaviors in dogs. I wrote a blog post, Scent Tracking as Part of Your ABC, on this topic earlier this year, where I addressed the benefits of teaching and practicing scent tracking (sometimes called just “tracking”) as part of your ABC. A lot of effort and research - rightly so - go into what directly (i.e. immediate antecedents) sets off the unwanted behavior(s). In practice, I have seen a remarkable difference in my clients’ dogs while also thinking about what indirectly (i.e. distant antecedents) affects the unwanted behavior(s) - and, in parts, addressing it with calm, concentrated, high motivational exercises such as tracking. By doing this, I am addressing both the immediate antecedents and the consequences. I wish there were more scientific research in the area of distant antecedents, how they influence behaviors, and how they could be addressed in relation to dogs and other companion animals.

Antecedents and Distant Antecedents

The immediate antecedents (also called the discriminative stimulus) such as the direct environment, which set off the dog doing something the owner is not happy with, are often fairly easy to spot although sometimes challenging to address. There are good protocols developed for that, such as Behavior Adjustment Training (Stewart, 2012), Look at That Training (McDevitt, 2007) and Reactive Aggressive Dog Training (Parsons, 2005), as well as variations and combinations of the above. The distant antecedents, the distant setting events and context, which are sometimes also referred to as the collective term, function altering stimulus (O’Heare, 2010, p. 33), can, however, be a little more challenging to figure out. What is important to know and consider is that they may have at least as much influence on an unwanted behavior as any immediate antecedent(s). (Hadaway & Brue, 2016, p. 20). What can a distant antecedent be? Distant antecedents can be ongoing, and not necessarily distant in time or space (O’Heare, 2010, p. 32). They refer to any context or motivation factor which is contributing to changing the function of a behavior, i.e. if a dog is growling and barking at other dogs, he may do so because he has been alone the whole day and is overly aroused, and possibly lacks mental stimulation and/or physical stimulation (O’Heare, 2010, p. 34). He may do this because he has hardly ever seen other dogs or because he has been attacked in the past. There are many possible contributing factors, of which I have only mentioned a few, to what a distant antecedent can be. What we need to understand as behavior consultants is that these distant antecedents influence the likelihood of the immediate antecedent setting off the unwanted behavior (Hadaway 36

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Tracking can help with physical and mental stimulation, and help dogs practice calm, concentrated behaviors

& Brue, 2016, p. 18). As Napolitano et al. (2012) expressed it in the Role of Functional Assessment in Treatment Planning: “While we may not be able to totally eliminate a setting event, understanding the impact it may have on challenging behavior is extremely valuable in planning an effective intervention.”

What to Do?

When I talk to my clients I talk about direct and indirect contributions to the behavior in question. It seems to help give them a good understanding of what this means practically for them in their everyday life. There are many ways of addressing distant antecedents. There is, in my opinion, a need for parallel interventions to get solid results. This is where tracking comes in. Tracking is a way of practicing calm, concentrated and, for the dog, natural behaviors. The dog follows a trail using his nose, and the trail leads to a reward. This involves sniffing out where, in this case, a human has walked and following the trail in the right direction. Tracking can be used as a way to address distant antecedents such as lack of mental stimulation, lack of bonding with the owner, and the lack of calm, concentrated work. It taps in to something which is natural for the dog to do and I have not yet met a dog who does not enjoy it. Any dog can do it and the results are often remarkable, in my experience. Owners, once they learn how to do it, enjoy it and often become very proud of their dog’s talents. It also enriches the dog’s environment and that, in itself, should create a better emotional state for the dog. Tracking is a natural way of stimulating a dog and it often leads to calmer, more concentrated behaviors, as well as increasing the bond between dog and owner.

TRAINING

An Introduction to Teaching Tracking

Material needed: - Harness (non-force). - Leash. - Small container with lid for treats. - Two people (unless you are in an area where you can tie your dog up safely). Grass or forest area (not a hard surface to start with). Wind coming from behind you, i.e. walk in the direction of the wind. To start (see Figure 1, below): 1. Put the harness and leash on the dog, if he/she is not already wearing them. 2. Put treats in the little container and put the lid on. 3. Leave the dog with a helper. 4. Walk in the direction of the wind. 5. Count 30 steps. 6. Stop and put the little container exactly in front of your feet. 7. Step over the container - CONTINUE 10 more steps straight ahead. 8. Make a large U-turn and stay approximately 35 yards away from the original track 9. Go back to dog, take him/her a few steps into the track and then wait. 10. When the dog is taking up the track, praise him/her with a very subtle voice and follow. 11. If the dog goes wrong, just wait until he/she has found the track again, same as #10. 12. When the dog has found the container, open it, feed the treats, praise, play, and have fun! 13. Go back away from any track, just play and have fun. The less we get involved by showing the dog where he

should go, the less we are dragging our feet in order to “help” the dog, and the less the dog relies on us for solving the track. Following steps 1 - 13 is a good way to start the dog and owner off doing this activity; it is easy for them to pick up on and easy to practice. Once this is going well there are various ways of developing the level of difficulty.

Ways to Progress

Remember to increase the level of difficulty one step at the time. • Put more than one container down so that the track gets longer but there are rewards roughly every 30-40 steps. • Extend the time, i.e. lay the track, wait 10 minutes, take a little walk with the dog, then go back and take the track. When you extend time, do it little by little. If the dog builds his/her confidence slowly but surely, you will see that you can work up to waiting up to several hours, and even days for the really experienced dog! • Put in gentle angles. • Let the dog find the track and choose direction. Make sure a reward is fairly close for taking the right direction. Let the dog work it out for him/herself. • Change the food container to an object and exchange the object for a treat or toy. Play with the toy, then get back in the track, making sure you do not “destroy” any of the new track in front of you. • Once the track is laid down and has been down for a minimum of about 20 minutes, ask somebody to walk over the track once.You will be surprised how well a dog can follow the original track. • Cross over the track yourself after it has been laid down. See above. • Change the surface. Long damp grass is the easiest. A dry and hard surface is the most challenging surface. When

Fig. 1: How to Start Teaching Your Dog How to Track

Graphic: Ewa Highland

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

TRAINING

changing surface, make other criteria easier to start with, such as length of time, no crossings etc. • Ask a friend to lay the track so you do not know where it goes and you have to rely on the dog. There are other types of nose exercises which can be useful in behavioral consultation work. For example, I have recently started bringing in K9 NoseWork into my consultations. The calmness of it and the joy it brings to dogs and owners seem to bring a similar effect as tracking does. n

References

Hadaway, S. M., & Brue, A. W. (2016). Practitioner's Guide to Functional Behavioral Assessment: Process, purpose, planning, and prevention. Heidelberg, Germany: Springer Highland, E. (2016, May). Scent Tracking as Part of Your ABC [Web log post]. Retrieved July 15, 2016 from www .ppgworldservices.com/2016/05/02/scent-tracking-as-part-ofyour-abc Matson, J. L. (Ed.). (2012). Functional Assessment for Challenging Behaviors. New York: Springer. Napolitano et al., chap. 12 McDevitt, L. (2007). Control Unleashed: Creating a focused and confident dog. South Hadley, MA: Clean Run Productions LLC O’Heare, J. (2010). Changing Problem Behavior: A systematic and comprehensive approach to behavior change project management. Ottawa, Ont: BehaveTech Publishing Parsons, E. (2005). Click to calm: Healing the aggressive dog. Waltham, MA: K. Pryor's Clicker Training Stewart, G. (2012). Behavior Adjustment Training: BAT for fear, frustration, and aggression in dogs. Wenatchee, WA: Dogwise

Tracking enriches a dog’s environment, creating a better emotional state, and owners are often very proud of their dog’s achievements

Ewa Highland gained her foundational education from the Working Dog Club in Sweden, where she also worked with temperament tests and ran courses from puppy through to competition level. After moving to Sussex, UK in 2006, she gained her certificate of higher education in animal behavior and animal welfare from Anglian Ruskin University, as well as clicker education from Kay Laurence/Helen Phillips (CAP 1 & 2). She has competed in working trials, competitive obedience and conformation showing, regularly sees clients for behavior consultations and general training, and also gives top level grooming courses for the Schnauzer owners and show handling courses. She has produced two DVDs - Puppy Training and Home Care and Miniature Schnauzer Grooming. For more information, see www.ewasdoglife.co.uk.

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For people who are serious about their dogs!

The Right Environment

PET CARE

In Part I of this two-part feature, Nikki Sherwin introduces P.I.E.C.E.S.©, a practical method for

assessing the key components required to make canine day care a safe and enjoyable experience

et’s say you are looking for a dog day Dogs should feel safe and happy care where your precious pup can in their day care feel safe and happy. Have you asked environment other dog owners for recommendations? Have you visited any facilities and checked them out? Are you unsure of what to look for? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, then this article is for you. It will help you choose a doggie day care by providing information about the key elements that constitute a quality day care. It will also present a clear and easy to understand system that you can use to help you find such a day care. It will explain how you can look for a day care that covers all the P.I.E.C.E.S.©. P.I.E.C.E.S.© is a system that offers a quick and simple means to assess day care facilities. It can be used for owners, trainers and day care facilities. The principles of P.I.E.C.E.S.© are as follows: • Positive Pillars • Interconnected • Education • Choice • Enriched Environment • Safety P.I.E.C.E.S.© is based on positive approaches in day care and it is important that the day care you seek practices these principles. Day cares have an influence on your dog’s behavior. By practicing P.I.E.C.E.S.©, the day care maintains a healthy, caring and respectful environment. In the billion-dollar dog industry, day care is a rapidly growing business, but there are no established standards or guiding principles. P.I.E.C.E.S.© fills these gaps.

Positive Pillars

How do staff at the day care manage behavior? What will the day care do if a dog acts inappropriately? Positive Pillars encompasses non-threatening approaches to managing dog behavior without compromising the dog’s safety or damaging the human-dog relationship. It includes both reinforcing desirable behavior and implementing methods to decrease undesirable behaviors. Positive reinforcement: Also known as +R, this involves following a dog’s desirable behavior with something the dog finds rewarding, thereby making the behavior more likely to happen in the future. Positive reinforcement builds trust between the dog and the person; trust and respect are achieved because the dog

is not threatened in any manner. Decreasing undesirable behaviors: Positive methods are used to interrupt a behavior followed by redirecting the dog to more favorable choice. For example, a dog gets over-aroused during play with another dog. Positive methods include using voice cues, gestures, and happy noises (‘yeahs’ or kissy sounds) to redirect. Neutrally separating and moving the dogs to a more favorable location such as an alternate area or friendship group decreases arousal. A day care that uses both of these pillars captures desirable behaviors and uses methods to redirect behavior. This sets the dog up for success without confrontation. In my opinion, setting dogs up for success is rewarding not only to the person in day care management, but to the dog as well. Studies have shown dogs to be more intelligent than once thought, with the ability to understand our emotions and our gestural signals (O’Hare, n.d.). Using the Pillars is a winwin for the dog, the caregivers and the day care environment.

Interconnected

Day cares offering exceptional service need to consider how canine parents are welcomed during drop-off and pick up periods. Engaging the dog owner is an important part of building the team approach to care. Communication between the day care and the parent is crucial and day cares can accomplish this in a number of ways: 1. Providing updates of dogs’ visits such as how they play with friends and when they make new ones. 2. Discussing observed behavioral changes. 3. Encouraging canine parents to inform the day care about changes that may impact the dog’s behavior is important. For example, a move or a change in family dynamics may cause a change in the dog’s behavior. Such information helps day care staff watch for any changes, and respond accordingly. 4. Notifying canine parents of contagions at the facility (e.g. kennel cough). Open and honest communication fosters trust between the day care and clients. 5. Providing a way to connect through technology such as webcams, live streaming TV or a two-way mirror. Any one of these provides the pet parents with the opportunity to observe BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

PET CARE

their dogs, how they are handled and how the dogs interact.

Education

Are day care staff educated in positive approaches to dog day care management? What is the training protocol for new staff? Do they understand dog behavior, canine communication and how to monitor dog stress? Day cares assume responsibility for many dogs. Dogs are unique in personality, energy levels, play styles, and communication. There are also breed specific behaviors and individual histories to understand and accommodate. It is the job of the facility to ensure staff have the knowledge and skills to understand the many, sometimes subtle, signs of behavior change in dogs. This includes being able to notice changes in a dog’s unique characteristics. Ongoing education and networking allow staff to stay current in and maintain quality care. According to Louise Stapleton-Frappell, dog trainer, author, instructor, faculty member of DogNostics Career College and regional coordinator of Doggone Safe in Spain: “…anyone working in the pet care field has an obligation to learn about canine communication so that they are able to quickly recognize not only the signs of a happy and relaxed dog, but also any sign of stress, anxiety, over-arousal, reactivity and perhaps even imminent bite."

Choice

Does your dog day care focus on giving dogs choices, or does it try to control the dog? When possible, giving dogs choice empowers them and builds their confidence. Connecting with dogs, setting them up for success, understanding their cues, responding to them and giving them encouragement will build the foundation for their choices. This takes more time and effort for day care staff, but the reward is watching dogs grow in social skills, confidence, and making good choices. For example, dogs can be given choices as soon as they enter day care and the play area. Are they given the time and space to enter the day care when they are ready? A choice like this can help build the dog’s confidence. In another example, a dog that is over-stimulated can be also given a choice. The day care worker cues the dog and the dog then has the choice to go to the person (desirable behavior) instead of engaging in a potential conflict (undesirable behavior). When a good choice is made, the dog receives rewards such as affection or going to a favorite place in the building. Choice is rewarding for the dog, the staff, and even the dog’s friends. Dogs in this type of care have the opportunity to calm down, connect with their care providers, and choose to resume play in a better frame of mind. Perhaps even a new friend is found from that choice. Angelica Steinker, accredited canine behavior consultant and owner of Courteous Canine Inc. DogSmith of Tampa, Florida, points out that: “Dogs must be carefully monitored during play… If the person monitoring play fails to redirect…dog fights can occur… Even one dog fight can cause personality changes in a dog [and] a dog that was previously fine with other dogs can become afraid or even begin displaying dog reactivity.” 40

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

Day cares should have measures in place to interrupt play if dogs get over-aroused

Providing updates of a dog’s day care visits is a good way to interact with clients

Day care staff should be skilled in understanding canine communication and recognizing stress

Empowering dogs to make their own choices can help build their confidence

Play must be carefully monitored by staff who are educated in reading canine body language

PET CARE

Day cares should have plenty of space for dogs to interact without being overcrowded, as well as provide plenty of opportunities for mental and physical stimulation

Enriched Environment

Is the day care clean and well maintained? Has the space been designed to enrich the dog’s playtime or is it just a space? To answer this, look for services that enhance your dog’s experience. Such services should include but are not limited to the following: • Encouraging appropriate play using positive methods as described and placing dogs of similar play styles and energy levels together. • Having a set of behavioral guidelines to build dog confidence and social skills using positive methods. • Offering access to a safe outdoor area for dogs to relieve themselves. • Offering a safe outdoor play area to give dogs the ability to ask to exit the facility as needed. • Controlling the day care climate so it is comfortable for the dogs. • Designing the facility to give dogs options to play in different areas (multi levels, different rooms, different play areas). • Providing ample space for dogs to play and interact without being overcrowded.

Safety

When selecting a day care, there are many questions to ask about safety. Safety includes building standards and guidelines, and also encompasses the safety of the dog physically, psychologically and emotionally. Questions you should ask could include the following: • Is the day care using positive approaches to maintain and strengthen healthy dog-human relations and giving choice to dogs to foster empowerment? • Does the day care provide information on its safety features and guidelines? • Does the day care screen new applicants for any history of aggression or other behavioral issues? Do they have a “meet and greet” prior to new dogs entering the facility? • Does the day care provide close supervision of the dogs throughout the day? • What is the dog-to-human ratio? • Are new dogs introduced slowly to the group(s) of day care friends? Dogs that meet new friends one at a time or in very small groups tend to be less stressed during introductions to a new environment.

• Are there separate areas for dogs of different sizes and energy levels? • Are the entry and exit points to the facility monitored and secure? • Can unknown people have access to the day care? Bennett (2005), author of All About Dog Day Cares… A Blueprint for Success stated: “A facility should not provide open tours and access to dogs as this is very disruptive and gets them riled up.” • Are the floors suitable for dog play? When a day care is considering flooring best suited and safe for the dogs, a good choice is rubberized. Rubber floors provide good traction to minimize slipping and hitting into walls while playing. A second safety feature is that they provide shock absorption to reduce stress on joints. These are the primary components of the P.I.E.C.E.S.© approach to assessing a dog day care facility to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience for all dogs. n The second part of this article will focus on what dog owners should be alert to and consider to be red flags in terms of their dog’s safety, as well as his physical and psychological well-being.

References

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior. (2007). Position Statement on the use of punishment for behavior modification. Retrieved July 17, 2016, from www.avsabonline.org /resources/position-statements Bennett, R. K. (2005). All About Dog Day Care… A Blueprint for Success. Woodbridge,VA: C&R Publishing O’Hare, B. (n.d.). The Genius of Dogs - New Discoveries about the Intelligence of Man’s Best Friend. Retrieved July 17, 2016, from www.apdt.com/education/webinars/archives/docs /100138_1_tydm_webinar_-_canine_intelligence.pdf

Resources

Becker, M. (2012). Want a Well-Behaved Dog? Do More of This and Less of That. Retrieved July 17, 2016, from www. healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/08/03/p ositive-reinforcement-dog-training.aspx Cattet, J. (2014, March) How Do Dogs Think? The Scientific Revolution in Dog Intelligence. Retrieved July 17, 2016, from www.blog.smartanimaltraining.com/2014/03/04/how-do -dogs-think-the-scientific-revolution-in-dog-intelligence Miller, P. (2001). The Power of Positive Training. New York, NY: Howell Bookhouse Stapleton-Frappell, L. (Producer). (2015). How to Teach Your Dog to Love Wearing a Muzzle [Video] Retrieved July 17, 2016, from www.youtu.be/QE19qm07_Vs The Muzzle Up Project: www.muzzleupproject.com Nikki Sherwin holds a BA in psychology and a child and youth worker certificate. She started out working with children with behavior issues and, since 1997, has been a professional dog trainer. For the past nine years she has owned Woofs ‘n Wags dog day care and canine educational facility, www.Woofsnwags.ca, in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. She has also pioneered an educational forum called Canine Community Connects (CCC) with the goal of bringing like-minded positive trainers together at seminars.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

CONSULTING

Determining Class Success

Veronica Boutelle highlights the importance of engagement, problem solving and taking

the classroom home when teaching dog training classes

hat criteria do you use to judge the success of your classes? Trainers often tell me they feel good about an hour spent teaching when they see students laugh and smile. When they see dogs performing. When everyone seems to be having a good © Can Stock Photo Inc./HighwayStarz time. They feel good when their lessons have gone as expected. When they have not made a verbal gaffe, and feel they have spoken well. And nice evaluations can confirm these feelings, or even assuage any doubt they have been harboring. But these criteria are misleading indicators at best.Yes, you absolutely want your students to enjoy their time with you (and vice versa). It is fantastic to see dogs “getting it” in the moment. And who doesn’t want a positive evaluation? But to really determine whether your classes are successful you need to ask an entirely different set of questions.

Engaging?

Are students diving into exercises or waiting for step-by-step instructions? Do they try an exercise a few times and then wait for one-on-one feedback or get to chatting, or are they continually working their dogs? Do they apply lessons and concepts without being prompted? For example, asking their dogs for a wait at your door when you are not working on wait. Or treating their dog for not barking when another dog does because you have been working on catching dogs getting it right and rewarding what you like. A successful classroom is one in which students actively

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

participate in learning, rather than waiting for each instruction. A strong curriculum creates an atmosphere in which students learn to apply recently acquired knowledge and skills to new situations. Too often dog classrooms are focused on the instructor. Students are Is your dog training class relevant to the outside world and real life situations? taught to always follow a lead, and rarely do they learn to stand on their own. In effect, trainers forget to remove the luring and prompting, leaving students unable to act effectively without us.

Problem Solving

Are students given opportunities to encounter new situations and make decisions about how to respond? Because they will encounter situations in the real world every day, and you will not be there to tell them what to do. Too many dog training curricula adhere to the old explain-demo-practice model. And when trainers do give students an opportunity to encounter a more reallife practice scenario — say, putting some treats or another distraction on the ground — they usually undermine any benefit by telling them what to do: “Walk to within 5 feet and then tell your dog ‘leave it.’” But students must learn to make their own criteria decisions and handle real-life distractions. Their world is full of them. When treats are on the ground what is more important than whether the dog ignores them is: Does the student notice them? Does she make a proactive decision about what to do? It does not matter if she lets her dog have the treats, tells him to “leave it,” tells him “come” or “let’s go” or “watch,” or chooses to give them a wide berth. Success is that she reads the environment, judges the right criteria for her dog, and chooses a course of action that works for her. Explain-demo-practice drills, or even a collection of fun games, will not teach students these life-with-dog skills. Problem solving is also about making adjustments. Can a student recognize something is not working and make an unprompted change? For example, to notice her dog has become distracted by another dog having moved closer and adjust the length of the stay they were working on? Training classes can be designed so that everyone - dogs and owners - can improve, no matter what their level

Or increase her rate of reinforcement or switch to a higher value treat or body block or use some sweet talk? Or, for that matter, move farther away from the other dog? Again, it does not matter what the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solution is â&#x20AC;&#x201D; only that she recognizes a need for one and tries the positive tools taught in class until she gets her dog refocused. For this to happen, we must resist the temptation to stand at her elbow suggesting each move.

Working for All Levels?

One of the biggest challenges facing any instructor is handling the widely varied skill and knowledge levels of their students. Do you teach to the middle? Reward the more advanced students with extra time so they do not get bored? Give the struggling students more of your attention? These questions often spark lively debate, but it is a false dilemma, because a well-designed curriculum does away with the need to choose. If we do not require that all dogs attain the five-minute â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;down stay,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; the bell curve can be put to rest. Lessons and activities can be designed to allow everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;humans and dogsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to succeed and improve, regardless of where they currently are. For example, an alternative stay lesson might consist of a distraction set up in an area of the classroom. Students are asked to practice stays in the midst of the distraction. The challenge? Students have to read their dog, judge how he is likely to react to the distraction, think about how well his stay is coming along, and then decide: Should I get up close and go for short duration? Give myself 10 feet? Work in the farthest corner (or even the hallway)? This lesson allows people and dogs at all levels to participate successfully because success is defined individually. And working at their dogsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; levels mean their dogs are able to get it right, which means students can reinforce them, which means their dogs get it right more often.

CONSULTING

Dropouts are a clear sign that a class, regardless of how enjoyable it might be or how much the students like the instructor, is not feeling relevant to life outside the classroom. Students may love an instructor, but if what is being done in class is not translating to beneficial change outside of it, it is all too easy to disengage and put limited time resources elsewhere. Retention from course to course is critical as well. From a business perspective, repeat business is the number one indicator of success. No class program can boast 100 percent retention and of course numbers will decline from class one to two, from two to three, and so on. But the more a curriculum is built around students learning skills and concepts and learning to apply those to problem solving for real life, rather than around achieving specific dog behaviors, the more likely students will come back for more. They come back not just because they enjoy class, but also because class makes a difference at home and in the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and that is good for your students, their dogs, and your business. n Veronica Boutelle MA Ed CTC is founder and co-president of dog*tec, www.dogtec.org, and author of How to Run Your Dog Business and co-author of Minding Your Dog Business. dog*tec offers professionally-designed positive reinforcement dog training class curricula, including Open-Enrollment Puppy, Open-Enrollment Basic Manners, and short Topics classes built for retention. She will be speaking on Tackling Your Classes at this PPG Educational Summit, www.forcefreesummit.com, in Tampa, Florida, November 7-11, 2016.

Carrying the Classroom

One of my favorite tactics to judge my own success when I taught training classes was to position myself inconspicuously somewhere outside the classroom before and, if I could sneak away, after class. I liked to watch my students outside of class when they did not realize they were being watched. Not to check up on them â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to check on my own efficacy. What did they do in the parking lot? How did they interact with their dogs? Were they carrying the skills and concepts from class into the world outside? I was watching for those telltale moments: A dog noticing and beginning to pull toward a buddy from class. A McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrapper on the sidewalk (sometimes deliberately placed there, I will admit). A gaggle of parading pigeons. Did my students notice early enough to be proactive? What decisions did they make? Did they make adjustments when what they tried first did not work? Did they stay positive? Because if the classroom experience is not even making it out into the parking lot, it is pretty unlikely it is changing behavior (human or dog) at home.

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BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

FELINE

Notacatperson

Carolyn Kocman investigates whether there is any truth in the oft held belief that cats are

ats are “aloof.” They Cats are sometimes thought of as aloof but “don’t listen” and in fact, plenty of pet “cannot be trained.” cats are highly social Cats are “destructive.” I am with their owners and other household pets “notacatperson.” There are a plethora of reasons that people determine not to like cats…but are any of these reasons valid? Moreover, do cats live up to the reputation that some have ascribed to them? Domesticated cats display as many personality characteristics as people do. While there are cats that are more independent and less likely to “listen,” there are many that will cuddle up on their owners’ laps and enjoy the attention of the family. So while some cats may be blamed for giving others a “bad rap,” it is time to dispel the myth that they are “all the same.” When one knows and understands how an animal communicates, it becomes easier to appreciate that creature. Cats have their own communication system that is both similar and disparate from that of other animals. Cats communicate with eyes, ears, mouth, whiskers, tail, body position, and vocalizations. Communication is expressed in actions as well. While, then, one may perceive a cat’s actions as being “aloof,” there may be far more that is being communicated. In an effort to understand the feline better, it is essential to separate fact from fiction. Some of the myths surrounding cats need to be dispelled and replaced with a correct understanding of feline behavior. A few of the more common myths amongst the “non-cat-loving” community follow – along with some facts to replace them.

Myth #1: Cats Are ÂUnfriendlyÊ and ÂAloof Ê When one studies the wild cat (from which domesticated cats have descended), it is clear that these creatures are both bush dwellers and tree dwellers. Some stay low to the ground while others are climbers. The domesticated feline carries the traits of its ancestors. Cats maintain the need to hide and to view their surroundings from above. These behaviors are not an effort to be aloof or unfriendly, but rather are instinctual. Being in a high posi44

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

“unfriendly” and cites the many reasons for dispelling the myth

tion or in a place of hiding provides a comfort level for the cat and is not only natural, but healthy for the cat. Contrary to this myth, many cats enjoy the company of their humans. The cat that is left alone may be a cat that exhibits symptoms of stress. Interacting with a cat on a regular basis is actually essential for her well-being. Feeding, playing, cuddling, and walking are all essential components to connecting with your cat. Myth #2: Cats Are ÂMeanÊ The domesticated cat enjoys a playful spirit. If your cat is playful and you find that you are suddenly being shredded, you may be misunderstanding cat play. Cats are predators. Play behaviors are necessary for kittens to learn how to catch prey. Older cats maintain this instinct. Thus, it is important to use actual toys in play – as opposed to your hands. Cats will mimic hunting behaviors in play. If your cat cannot take much petting from you without an “attack,” it is not about being mean, per se. Cats (some more than others) will have a sensory limit for touch. Know your cat’s limits and don’t exceed them. It’s not that he wants to be mean. It’s just about having sensory overload. When this occurs he may become aggressive, a phenomenon known as petting-biting syndrome. The key is to be able to read his body language well enough to stop before he ever gets to that point. Signs that he

FELINE

Myth #3: Cats ÂCannot Be TrainedÊ There is nothing farther from the truth. Most indoor domesticated cats begin their life with humans teaching them to eliminate in a litter box. Of course they can be trained! Cats, like dogs, are trainable. The best way to train a cat is through positive reinforcement. If your cat is not responding to your calling her name, pair the call with the sound of the can opening for her dinner. Eventually she will equate her name to coming to you to receive good things. Using a treat to reinforce sitting behaviors for a cat will result in a cat being able to sit on command. Cats are highly trainable when provided with positive reinforcement for desired behaviors. Myth #4: Cats Are ÂDestructiveÊ Well…cats can be destructive, that is true. However, scratching is a behavior issue that is very natural and can be controlled for and corrected. Cats scratch for several reasons. Cat scratching behaviors during play have already been discussed. However, what about the cat that destroys furniture with clawing behaviors? Cats use their claws to deposit scent. This means that when a cat feels the need to define his territory, he will seek upright areas on which to deposit his scent through scratching. Wild cats do the same thing. Since there are scent glands in the cat’s paws, this is an effective method of signaling to other animals regarding territory. Cats also need to groom their claws. This involves scratching as well. For both this behavior and scent depositing, it is necessary to maintain areas in which the cat can act out her natural instincts. Thus, scratching posts and emery scratchers are essential in the cat friendly home. Destruction is often the term given to a cat that eliminates outside of the litter box. While there are a variety of reasons that this behavior can occur, including stress or anxiety, it is important to understand that cats are clean animals. They appreciate a very clean area to do their business, much as we appreciate a clean bathroom. The importance of keeping a litter box that is clean cannot be overstated. Furthermore, cats do maintain certain pref-

Cats need to feel safe when they are interacting with people and other pets; positive associations are key

has had enough include a lashing tail, ears pinned back, staring/dilated pupils, or a “mini-freeze.” Some cats will raise a paw and try to push their owner’s hand away.

Cats often enjoy affection from their owners but many have their limits and may become aggressive if they reach their threshold (known as pettingbiting syndrome)

erences – it is part of their individual likes and dislikes, much like humans! Therefore, substrates, and size and shape of litter boxes are subject to individual likings.

Myth #5: Cats DonÊt Get Along With... (other cats, dogs, kids, etc.) The truth here is that cats need to make positive associations with other creatures – human, feline, canine, or other. Give a cat plenty of space to get above the situation and observe from afar. This is where the hiding and climbing behaviors come in to play and make a cat feel safe. Make sure the cat has plenty of territory to explore and enjoy without threat and you will have a cat that is well-adjusted. Positive associations can always be encouraged with food and play. When good things occur in the presence of another individual, the cat will usually begin to enjoy that individual – regardless of the species. Like humans, there are some cats that are shyer than others. So how do you relate to a cat like this? There are certain steps that are helpful in dealing with a shy cat. 1. Allow the cat to “tell” you what he/she wants, likes, and dislikes. Being a student of feline communication is certainly helpful here. If a cat runs from your touch, he is telling you that he is not ready for the touch sensation just yet. • Head forward indicates that the cat is inviting touch. •The flatter and further back the ears, the more fearful the cat. The more upright and pricked forward the ears, the more aggressive the cat. Friendly cats will maintain a BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

FELINE Belly up does not necessarily mean the cat wants you to rub his belly but can be a sign of trust

normal, upright ear position. • Tail position for a friendly cat is upright and unbristled. An unsure cat may tend to keep the tail upright but slightly back or straight up but hooked at the tip. Either of these positions, while indicating some shyness or uneasiness, indicates that the cat is being friendlier but cautious. • Belly up is not an invitation to rub your cat’s belly. Rather, belly up may be indicative of a cat that is showing enough trust that you will not touch his belly. Knowing the difference is important in maintaining a good human-feline relationship. 2. Remember that a cat that is hiding or climbing and perching simply wants to feel safe. Allow the cat the opportunity to both hide and climb so that she can observe. Once she determines that it is safe to explore, the cat will gradually come around. 3. Pair your interaction with positive things. Grabbing a cat when he comes near will not encourage him to come back, but a soft, gentle touch may well do. Providing a treat will encourage interaction. 4. Play with him. This point goes hand-in-hand with number three above. Play can be a method of positive reinforcement. Play can develop a relationship with a cat as he is able to exercise his instincts. Always be sure to use toys and motion in play. Cats respond well to games that simulate hunting. Finally, always remember that patience is a virtue. A shy cat is one that needs you to go slowly and wait for her to interact. Allowing the cat time to adjust and determine that she is in a safe environment is key to developing a great relationship. Taking the time to understand a cat’s communication as well as her personality is essential to knowing how to interact with her. Follow these strategies and you may just become acatperson after all. n Carolyn Kocman decided to pursue her passion of working with animals after many years in the business world. She is currently a graduate student pursuing an MS in companion animal behavior analysis and counseling at the American College of Applied Science, which she has been attending since 2012. With only some lab work, thesis, and externships remaining before obtaining her final degree, she is actively working to open her practice which will focus largely on canine behavioral issues. She also serves on the PPG advocacy committee.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

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No Restraints

EQUINE

Kathie Gregory explains the practice of freewill teaching with horses at liberty and the

importance of ensuring a horse feels safe to encourage a positive learning experience

ost of my work is with horses at liberty. At liberty means that there are no restraints or aids to physically manage the horse, such as head collars and bridles, lead ropes and reins, or any means of safely securing the horse to a fence. I specialize in cognitive awareness and emotions, so teaching always begins with the mind. Ensuring the horseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind is in a content and balanced state is essential to being a good teacher, and means learning is enjoyable for the horse. The first step is to set up the environment. This needs to be a space that does not undermine the horseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of safety. If he feels uncomfortable, threatened or anxious, he will not be in a good state of mind to learn, and what he does learn will be very different to what he would learn if he were relaxed and enjoying the experience. Also, an anxious state of mind does not allow trust to develop. To ensure learning is enjoyable and develop trust with the horse, the environment needs to promote a relaxed state of mind that is open to learning. This means giving the horse options. If there are options, he has more choices and will feel safer. This is very important; a lack of options and consequent choices will decrease his sense of safety. He may never choose a particular option, but knowing it is available makes a huge difference to his perception. This is also an important factor for handler safety, as his behavior and decisions are informed by his state of mind. Give the horse an exit where possible. If you have adjoining areas, you may be able to open doors and gates so the horse can move from one area to the other. If you work in the horse's field and section off an area to work in, give it corners. Working in a round pen automatically reduces safety in the eyes of the horse. If he cannot leave the pen, there is no safe area. Corners give him somewhere defensible. It is immaterial to the horse that he will not be put in a position of defending himself, the absence of options is enough to change his perception of his circumstances. If leaving a gate open is not an option, create a perceived exit strategy for the horse.You can achieve this by carefully choosing the area you work in and where you are in relation to the horse so you can alter his sense of safety by changing your proximity to him and whether you are present or not. By setting things up for the horseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sense of safety you have automatically made the environment safer for yourself. However there are a couple more things to consider. Having exits open is a safety measure for the handler too; if you need to leave the area it is easy to do so. If you are not sure about getting close to a horse, you can start in one area whilst the horse is in the other. If you are working in an enclosed space with no exits, you can use protective contact and stay on the other side of the fence or gate. This puts the final safety measures in place so that you are not in danger of being injured whilst you are working

A horse must feel safe and relaxed in his environment to ensure learning is enjoyable and effective

with a horse. Setting up the environment addresses several things: safety for horse and handler, supporting the emotional system so the horse can alter his perception of the situation, and ensuring his mind is in a balanced and relaxed state so learning is easy and enjoyable. This is always the first step every time I work with a horse. He receives his first experience of me being in the environment, my personality, and what he can expect of me. He sees the options available to him and the choices he has. I want the situation to be viewed from a calm, relaxed perspective so his assessment is informed by the thinking part of his brain, not as an emotional response. If he is anxious, his mind will be focused on how to remain safe. Once the environment is set up, we progress from there. Mood, experiences, actions, responses, and the emotions of the horse himself, everyone he comes into contact with, and every situation he is in are intertwined. They all influence the horse and shape his personality, his perception, and consequently, his behavBARKS from the Guild/September 2016

EQUINE Horses are prey animals and their preference is to move to a safe distance and observe when unsure; it is the handlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s responsibility to attain optimum proximity so the horse does not feel the need to move away

ior. Being prey animals, horses always have part of their minds on survival. They need to be ready to respond to danger, and do so extremely quickly. When horses are unsure, their preference is to move to a safe distance and observe. This immediately tells you that proximity is very important. This is one of the reasons we have taken the time to set up the environment to aid the horse in this. Whilst the horse is in control of how close he comes to the handler and has the means to move away, ultimately it is the handler's responsibility to ensure an optimum proximity so the horse does not feel the need to move away. Always start liberty work at the furthest distance from the horse, relative to how familiar you both are with this way of working. Wherever you start, it should be at a distance where there are no signs of stress or anxiety. If there are, move further away to compensate. The next step is to work subliminally. The horse knows I am there, but I am not asking anything of him. I am a fluid being that responds to his body language and actions to have a minimum, imperceptible influence on his behavior. I am not trying to achieve anything other than to enable him to reach a point where he feels a sense of safety and reassurance in my presence. It is up to him what he does, and I adjust to facilitate this state of mind. I am giving him the opportunity to expand his awareness and consider things from a different perspective. From this point we can start to build trust. The horse can relax as he knows how 48

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

I am likely to act. I can relax knowing how he is likely to act. This creates reliability between us and an environment conducive to teaching and learning. It is crucial I do not undermine the beginnings of trust the horse has given me. I must remain the same; predictable and reliable. I always adjust for him, it is too soon for him to adjust for me. We are at the very start of freewill teaching, and whilst I understand the concept, the horse does not. We cannot expect children to go from learning their ABC to understanding grammar, without first teaching all the things in between that allow them to do so. Similarly, we cannot move straight from creating a sense of trust to expecting the horse to do as we ask without first teaching all the skills in between. This brings me to a point where I can progress to the next step, which is starting a conversation. When the horse is relaxed, I begin. Imagine you meet a person for the first time.You start the conversation by smiling. What the person does tells you your next step. If they smile, you follow that up by saying 'hello.' If they don't you will most likely move away. I use the same approach. The horse will either respond favorably or not. This tells me my next step in the conversation. The same principle applies to horses I know. I begin a conversation to see what state of mind he is in, whether he is receptive to interaction, and what he is thinking about, which is usually what he is doing at that moment. If, say, his attention remains on grazing when I greet him, there is nothing to be gained from try-

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ing to continue the conversation. If I have already taught the horse I am with to change focus, I can get his attention and then start the conversation. If not, I will wait until there is a pause in grazing, and begin teaching him how to interrupt himself to listen to me. Everything I do is in response to what he does. I am the teacher, so it is up to me to adjust for the abilities of the learner. How far along you are makes a difference to what your horse does. If we are at the start, the grass is so much more rewarding than I am, but as we progress the horse enjoys engaging with me and there is not such a big gap between the level of reward he gets from the grass or from me. This makes it much easier for him to choose to engage with me. Ultimately, it is his choice, and if he does not want to engage, then I do not persist. At the start, there are more instances where he will choose not to engage, than to engage, but the balance changes as you progress and develop. When he does engage you can start actively teaching; how you teach depends on your horse. Some methods will help him learn enabling him to remain calm and interested, whereas he will find some methods difficult and worrying. My previous article, Creating Mutual Trust (BARKS from the Guild, July 2016, p. 5759), looked at different ways of teaching. Have a go at each one, and see what suits your horse. Which things keep him in a positive emotional state and which do not? This informs you about your teaching strategy. Teaching is more than just asking him to perform movements. It is about developing the mind, increasing cognitive awareness, teaching the horse how to balance his emotions and make good decisions so even if you are not actively working with him, there is always something to teach and something to learn. As you follow the path of freewill teaching your perception will change, and this will change how you approach teaching your horse.You will start to check that what you are doing or intend to do keeps your horse in an emotionally good state of mind. At some point, you will realize that you no longer need to think about the way you act, adjust and the decisions you make, it has become second nature.You are starting a journey that ends in a shared bond of trust and friendship. Complete understanding between you and your horse is a partnership where you manage your behavior and decisions, and your horse manages his. n

EQUINE

References

Gregory, K. (2016, July). Creating Mutual Trust. BARKS from the Guild (19) 57. Retrieved July 7, 2016, from www.issuu.com /petprofessionalguild/docs/bftg_july_2016_opt/56

Kathie Gregory is a UK-based animal behavior consultant who trained under Prof. Peter Neville at the Centre of Applied Pet Ethology, and is a practitioner member of the COAPE Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers. She has worked with animals for over 15 years, mainly with horses and dogs, although she also works with cats, sheep, pigs, cows and other species. She developed freewill teaching, an expertise focusing on raising cognitive awareness and understanding, in order to give animals the ability to reach their full potential. For further information, see her blog, www.ataleoftwohorses.com.

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BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

AVIAN

Targeting Like a Pro

Lara Joseph introduces targeting to avian wildlife ambassadors and sees a cormorant

named Darcy learn the basics in under five minutes

et’s start by defining what exactly target training is. Target training involves training an animal to touch a pre-determined object like a ball at the end of a stick, or your finger, or even touching a pen to a pre-determined body part of the animal like a beak, paw, or nose. Examples might be training a bird to touch his beak to a ball at the end of a stick when you say “touch,” or getting a dog to touch his behind to the floor when you say “sit.” This kind of training comes in extremely handy for several reasons. For instance, targeting an animal to touch his nose or beak to a ball on the end of a stick can be helpful when you need him to move from one part of the room to another. If you train the animal to do this, you can then move him across the room by asking him to “touch” the stick when it is presented at the other end of the room. This is especially useful if you are trying to work with an animal that shows signs of aggression when people walk by a door or a particular walkway, for example. By asking him to target, you can get him to move to a location where he does not feel the need to engage in that undesired behavior. Another example might be when you want an animal to go into a crate. If he is already trained to target a stick, you can put the stick in the opposite end of the carrier and ask him to “touch.” He then has to go into the carrier to touch the ball. I have recently introduced target training to a team I am working with at Nature’s Nursery, a wildlife rehabilitation center in Whitehouse, Ohio. The team has accurately taught a cormorant named Darcy to touch a ball at the end of a stick with her beak. They have since been using the target stick to guide the same bird to different areas of her enclosure. From there, it was time to introduce the weighing scale so I laid a flat scale down on one of the benches in the enclosure, held the ball at the end of the stick over the scale, and said “touch.” Darcy immediately went to touch the ball with her beak and stepped on the scale to get to the ball. This is obviously a very useful behavior to train, particularly when guiding an animal around an enclosure or for conducting a variety of general husbandry procedures. All of this sounds great, but where does one begin? Start by making it very easy for the animal to touch the ball. I started with putting the ball close enough to Darcy that she had to look at it, but not too close as to scare her. When she looked at the ball I immediately said “good” and tossed her a piece of smelt. I use the word “good” as my bridge. A bridge is a sound or signal that is given to let the animal know he or she has given the exact behavior we are asking for and that the treat or positive reinforcer is coming. The bridge literally ‘bridges’ the gap between the time the animal has performed the desired behavior and the time it takes to deliver the positive reinforcer. This time should always be relatively short. The less amount of time that is taken between delivering the bridge and delivering the positive rein50

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

If author Lara Joseph (pictured) cannot read turkey vulture Willy’s body language for any reason, she has Willy target her beak to her finger to avoid any possibility of aggressive behavior occurring

forcer, the clearer it will be to the animal as to exactly what behavior is being reinforced. The amount of time will vary depending on the individual and the situation, and my time is usually around five seconds. Immediacy is an important factor in reinforcer effectiveness. (Miller, 2006). As our training progressed I bridged and delivered the treat as soon as Darcy looked at the ball. I then placed the ball within about 6 feet of her and said “good” and reinforced as soon as she looked at it. I did this several times until I saw her consistently looking at the ball as soon as it was presented. Once I could see she had learned that just looking at the ball caused a reinforcer to be delivered, I moved to the next step. I showed her the ball and she looked at it of course, but this time I wanted to wait for something more, thereby using differential reinforcement. She ended up leaning into the ball just about an inch. I immediately said “good” and reinforced. I did it again and again until I could see she clearly understood she needed to move toward the ball to get the reward. I then presented the ball and waited for more behavior. She ended up turning away from it. That was fine, it is a part of the learning process that teaches contingency. I removed the ball and all opportunity for her to earn her reward. She quickly turned back around and looked my direction so I presented the ball and she took a step closer to it. I immediately said “good” and reinforced. Darcy took another step closer to the ball and almost touched it with her beak. Once again I reinforced. As soon as her beak was about 1 inch from the ball I made sure I kept the ball still and steady. Darcy did not touch it. I was not sure she understood what I was waiting for so I turned the ball by twirling the

stick in my hand. She quickly jutted her head out and touched the ball with her beak. It was the turning of the ball that caused her to reach out and touch it with her beak. Once she did that, I immediately said “good” and tossed her three pieces of smelt. I wanted to increase the size of the reinforcer so there was a clear line of communication to show that that particular behavior is what earned the more valuable reinforcer. The size of the reinforcer also has great impact on reinforcer effectiveness (Miller, 2006). Darcy learned this behavior within her first threeminute training session. Darcy is now a targeting pro thanks to the consistency of the training team, who now guide her around her enclosure with the target stick. Last week Darcy needed to be weighed. I went into her enclosure and placed the scale on a perch where I know she had a strong history of being trained. The scale is flat and low and easy for her to step on. I held the training stick with the ball above the scale and asked her to “touch.” She walked toward the ball which was hovering over her scale and touched it and I leaned down and recorded her weight. From now on the training should be focused on the duration to keep her on the scale until we cue her off it. I have worked with several birds that have been labeled aggressive. One of the first things I teach them is to target. If I ever find myself in an accidental or uncomfortable situation, I can quickly rely on the former target training to guide that bird’s beak, or animal’s mouth or feet away from me so I can get myself out of a compromising position. This works very well and prevents the need to use force in trying to avoid anything worse occurring. Before targeting a raptor or other program bird to my glove, I will train a beak target to another object. Many times I will teach a finger target whereby the tip of the raptor’s beak will touch my finger or a stick. This was the first thing I taught Willy, a turkey vulture with a beak evolved for ripping rotting flesh. I taught her to touch her beak, mouth closed, to the end of a gloved finger. Once she understood that target, I then began Cormorant Darcy learned to target a ball on the end of a stick in a 3-minute training session (pictured here with Lara Joseph)

AVIAN

shaping her to target her feet to my glove, also known as a recall. Willy has a history of reinforcement for lunging at body parts in close proximity. Many vultures do. Willy is a big bird and when she is on my glove, her eyes are on the same level as mine. I learned her body language extremely well before calling her to the glove and made sure she clearly understood the finger target as well. If, for any reason, I could not clearly read her body language on my glove, I would ask her to target her beak to my finger which I positioned on the other side of her to redirect her beak away from my face. I would then ask for her feet to target the perch in front of her, eliminating all opportunity for her to learn any undesired behavior. Many raptor trainers and falconers wear a leather glove in which to recall or carry a raptor. The glove is known as a gauntlet and it provides protection for one’s hand. Even so, the bird’s talon can still pierce the glove if pushed over threshold. Raptor trainers prefer to wear the leather glove because they can easily feel stress or a change in body language through the tension of the feet on the glove. If the trainer’s head is turned and there is a twitch in the tension on the glove, that is a clear line of communication to the trainer something in the environment has changed for the raptor and the trainer can take the appropriate steps to avoid the situation escalating. n

References

Miller, L. K. (2006). Principles of Everyday Behavior Analysis. Andover, UK: Cengage Learning Lara Joseph is the owner of The Animal Behavior Center LLC, www.theanimalbehaviorcenter.com, in Ohio. She is also the Director of Avian Training for a wildlife rehabilitation center where she focuses on removing stress from animal environments. She is a professional member of The Animal Behavior Management Alliance, The International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators, and sits on the Advisory Board for All Species Consulting and The Indonesian Parrot Project.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

EVENTS

Hot off the Press

Barbara Wright went to the 2016 Canine Science Forum and came back with updates on

very two years, special- It is becoming evident ists in all fields of canine that empathy is not a unitary process, but one behaviour research whereby emotions and from many international uni- cognitive processes can be at work at the same versities and organizations time gather for the Canine Science Forum (CSF). This year the event took place in Padova, Italy. Whilst it is impossible to pass on all the things I learned, my intention here is to summarize and outline the, in my view, most relevant and interesting findings and studies in relation to dog training and behavior. First up, a study presented by the University of Lincoln showed that playful activities after training sessions enhance and aid long-term memory consolidation in Labrador retrievers (Affenzeller & Zulch, n.d.). Whilst half the study’s test subjects got to relax for half an hour after learning a new task, the other half was allowed a 30-minute play session while the person conducting the experiment waited outside. When retested for the skill learned 24 hours earlier, the dogs that had been allowed to engage in playful activities re-acquired the new skill within, on average, half the number of trials as the control group. This study is in its infancy, so besides the limitation that all tested subjects were Labrador retrievers, further studies planned to explore the full extent of the benefit of playful activities posttraining. There is a possibility that not just play, but exercise, or being in a novel environment as well as proper REM sleep could prove to have similar effects. All that said, I found it very exciting that there are no more excuses: play with your dog after every training session! None of the dogs that played did worse than the control group, so you might as well have fun if it could help your dog learn. With the help of technology (in this case fMRI) scientists can sometimes confirm what really matters to dogs. A study by Andics, Gabor, Gacsi, Farago, Szabo and Miklósi (n.d.) researched how dogs process human language, praise in particular. Human language’s main two components, intonation and meaning, were put to the test, and since intonation gets processed in the left brain hemisphere and meaning in the right, the MRIs suggested that verbal praise elicits a reward response in dogs only if both word meaning and intonation fit. Remember then, it matters what you say and how you speak to your dog! I am certain we all have moments when we learn something unforgettable, when we hear something which will make us look at interactions between individuals (be that dogs, humans or any other animal) in a different way for a long time to come. Pier Francesco Ferrari’s presentation (n.d.) on the neurobiology of empathy was such a moment for me. 52

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

It is becoming evident that empathy is not a unitary process, but a multi-layered phenomenon during which emotions and cognitive processes can be simultaneously at work. Recently, this theory has also been confirmed to be the case for dogs. From a neurobiological point of view, one of the basic mechanisms of empathy involves the possibility of the activation of shared cortical representations to directly experience and interpret others’ behavior. Stated more simply, this means that one part of the observer’s brain is stimulated simply by watching or hearing a stimulus directed at another individual, meaning that we innately copy behavior as part of our brain gets activated. Not only was the content of Ferrari’s presentation astonishing, but watching an expert and his team working and training their animals so seamlessly was a real bonus. With the findings of Ferrari’s study, we should all remember to watch experienced trainers as often as possible and, hopefully, with the help of ‘empathy neurons’ find it easier to replicate what we have seen and improve our own capabilities. On another note, while learning the intricate details about the neurobiology of aggression in animals (research in this case was carried out using rodents) (De Boer, n.d.), I was reminded about the role of aggression as a survival mechanism. The fact is, that most of us have a healthy amount of aggression in us, but it only ever escalates to extreme aggression or violence in very few of us. Scientists are working on not only finding out about the neurobiology of maladaptive aggression, but also on potential ways to prevent individuals from escalating their levels of aggression. One thing is certain, however: once an individual has had a win due to severe aggression, severe aggression is more likely to occur again. Following on from that, it was, as usual, a pleasure to hear James Serpell speak. In this case, he and his colleague, E.L. MacLean, had been focusing on the relationship between breed differences in dog behaviour and how they co-vary with genetic relationships between breeds. They studied the Canine Behavioral Assessment and Research Questionnaire, aka C-BARQ, data of 12,244 samples, and examined 54 breeds (at least 50 dogs per sample). Most behavioral traits showed strong phylogenetic signal, suggesting that evolutionary history can account for the covariance of behavioral traits across breeds. Trainability, stranger directed aggression and chasing had the highest heritability (Serpell & McLean, n.d.). Not only did the CSF focus on canine behavior, evolution and cognitive studies, there was also a great interest in how we, as professionals, teach and can best spread our valuable findings © Can Stock Photo Inc./chalabala

some of the most recent studies in the fields of dog training and behavior

with the world of dog trainers and owners, as well as how we can include normal dogs and their families in valuable research about our canine companions. One interesting approach along these lines is the research surrounding the Do You Believe in Dog? webpage, launched by scientists Julie Hecht and Mia Cobb. The aim was to understand how the general public accesses information about their pets and potential behavior problems. This could help us all in ensuring our positive training messages get to the consumers more efficiently. Do You Believe in Dog? has proven a successful platform for sharing canine science (with more than 405,000 site hits in four years) and now has an established and engaged global public audience. Canine scientists and trainers who endeavor to share the findings of their research via non-traditional communication platforms, such as blogging and social media, are more likely to reach a much wider audience and, consequently, make a much bigger impact (Cobb & Hecht, n.d.). Meanwhile, if you want to make a contribution to science while getting benefits for you and your dog at the same time, have a look at Dog Log Book. This website offers new ways of helping dog owners recognizing and meeting their dogs’ needs. While you enjoy the benefits of this free service, you will help researchers through your participation as a citizen scientist. Throughout the conference there were many more snippets of information that I found fascinating. Here are a few of them that really caught my eye: • Dogs that get punished for problematic behaviors are more likely to bite. Of all dogs in this study that showed problem behaviors, 41-42 percent ended up biting. Other factors that can contribute to dogs biting are: if they come from rescue or shelters, if they are from pastoral breed groups, or if the problem behaviour was food or object guarding. Also, if the owners already saw fit to ask neighbors, friends and peers for help, their dogs are more likely to bite (Orritt, Hogue & Mills, n.d.). • The more training a dog has had, the less likely he is to look back to his owner to elicit help when faced with an unsolvable task (Marshall-Pescini, Rao,Viranyi & Range, n.d.). • Only 23 percent of a large varied group of people can identify canine aggression in a photo and only 15 percent of veterinarian and veterinarian professionals are more likely to identify this correctly (Scott & Bowen, n.d.). As the conference came to an end, the venue for the next one in 2018 was announced as Budapest, Hungary. Again, the scientific organizing team emphasized the importance of all different fields involved with canine related issues participating in such events. The research presented is amongst that which could improve the quality of our own work with our clients. Additionally, hopefully, our understanding and scientific proof of canine cognitive function will help solidify our approach to our work to ensure better welfare of dogs everywhere. The CSF is an invaluable source of information and it would be wonderful to see practical research by trainers and behaviorists put forward in 2018. n

EVENTS Resources

Affenzeller, N., & Zulch, H. (n.d.). Playful Activities Post-Learning Improve Memory Consolidation in Labrador Retriever Dogs. Animal Behaviour, Cognition and Welfare Group, School of Life Sciences. University of Lincoln, UK Andics, A., Gabor, A., Gacsi, M., Farago, T., Szabo, D., Miklósi, A. (n.d.). Neural Mechanisms for Verbal Praise Processing in Dogs. Department of Ethology, Eötvös Loránd University. Budapest, Hungary Cobb, E M., & Hecht, J. (n.d.). Exploring Non-Traditional Platforms for the Communication of Canine Science; School of Psychological Science. Monash University, Australia; and the Graduate Center, The City University of New York, USA De Boer, S.F. (n.d.). Untangling the Neurobiology of Escalated Aggression in Animals. Department of Behavioural Neurobiology, Groningen Institute for Evolutionary Life Sciences. University of Groningen, Netherlands Ferrari, P.F. (n.d.). Neurobiology of Empathy. A Lesson from Primates. Department of Neuroscience, University of Parma. Parma, Italy Orritt, R., Hogue, T.E., & Mills, D.S. (n.d.). Risk Factors Associated with Human Directed Aggressive Behaviour and Dog Bites. Department of Psychology, University of Lincoln. Lincoln, UK Marshall-Pescini, S., Rao, A.,Viranyi, Z., & Range, F. (n.d.). Looking Back: A Bi-Product of ‘Giving Up’ or a Measure of ‘Human-Directed’ Communication?. Comparative Cognition Unit, Messerli Research Institute. University of Vienna, Austria Scott, M.E., & Bowen, J. (n.d.) Understanding Dog-Dog Interactions: If Experience Doesn’t count, What Does? Royal Veterinary College, Dursley. Gloucestershire, UK Serpell, J.A., & MacLean, E.L. (n.d.). Breed Differences in Dog Behavior Co-Vary with Genetic Relationship Between Breeds. School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania. Philadelphia, USA Barbara Wright is an honors graduate of the Academy for Dog Trainers at the San Francisco SPCA. She recently moved from Sydney, Australia to Singapore and has joined PPG Singapore’s steering committee. She has completed the Certificate of Excellence – Living and Learning with Animals with Dr. Susan Friedman, and the Life Skills for Puppies course at Lincoln University, England and, in 2005 founded Positive Puppies in Sydney, directed the company until 2015 and is now a consultant there. In Singapore, Wright has recently joined the volunteer team of Animal Concerns Research & Education Society, www.acres.org.sg.

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Email: barkseditor@petprofessionalguild.com BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

EVENTS

Behavior Is Science

Patience Fisher recently attended Dr. Susan Friedman’s Living and Learning with Animals

seminar and came out with a host of pithy sound bites that many a behavior professional might find alluring

r. Susan Friedman is one of the giants in the field of beAccording to Dr. Susan Friedman we haviorology, having pioneered the application of behavior are “born to behave” analysis from its origins in teaching humans to its applicaand every study of tion in teaching animals. This teaching method has been very efan animal is a “study of one” fective with human learners, and Friedman has demonstrated its effectiveness in many other species, including companion animals and zoo animals. Earlier this year I was fortunate to be able to attend her seminar, Living and Learning with Animals in Exton, Pennsylvania. During the two-day event, Friedman provided a compelling lecture on applied behavior analysis and how it can improve the lives of all learners in our care. Of course, she discussed the functional assessment, the importance of being committed to ethical practice, and the fall-out from aversives, as well as procedures for changing both respondent and operant behavior. What I would like to share here, however, is some of her concise wording of these principals. Even if you already are well-versed in these concepts, Friedman’s pithy statements should prove useful when discussing behaviorology with clients and other professionals. One statement in particular that she spent some time on was © Can Stock Photo Inc./suemack this: the study of behavior is science. As behavior professionals, we study what can be observed, collect data, and look for correWe are, after all, “born to behave.” lations and Friedman stated that this is as much science as the When working with an animal, we are doing a “study of one,” study of physics, chemistry, and biology. Unfortunately, applied be- Friedman said. She acknowledged the importance of learning the havior is usually in the psychology department, but Friedman principles of behavior, but cautioned us to remember that the anstated that it would be more at home as part of the biology deimal we are working with is the one whose behavior is being anpartment (and might be more respected). Nonetheless, it is scialyzed—and it may or may not fit our preconceptions. Each ence. individual has unique DNA and a unique differential reinforce“We are born to behave.” This statement explains so many ment history. Regardless of whether or not animals have been practices we use when training or conditioning. It is a concise ex- trained, they have been differentially reinforced for their behavplanation of why we train a replacement behavior for a behavior iors because life is a compilation of differential reinforcement. that is problematic. Animals have unique experiences as they behave and we are thus “We are born to behave,” said Friedman, a statement she be- always doing a “study of one.” lieves explains so many practices when training or conditioning. Friedman’s overall theme for her business is “unlabel me,” It is also, according to Friedman, a concise explanation of why we and, as professionals, we too must strive to ‘unlabel’ animals in train a replacement behavior for a behavior that is problematic. order to properly teach them. Friedman said this is why positive reinforceWe cannot teach animals Friedman says ment results in “joyful, super-sized bewhat to be, but we can that we cannot havior”—and why positive punishment “teach them how to teach animals what to be, but is a “double-whammy,” having curtailed behave,” Friedman we can “teach behavior in addition to adding an aversaid. This is why we them how to sive. It is why enrichment is so imporoperationalize the behave” tant and why training done properly is behavior—for inenriching. As we know, many animals stance, we can train choose to work for food even a shelter cat to apwhen the same food is readily proach the front of available. It is also why “[havthe cage when a pering] control is a primary reson walks by, but we caninforcer”—the sequence of not teach ‘friendliness.’ antecedent, behavior, and When behavior modification consequence is natural. or training does not work, 54

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

“it is [because] of the program,” Friedman said. This was one of the main themes of this seminar. As professionals, we do our “study of one” and come up with a behavior modification plan for that one animal, and adjust it accordingly. “Labels put the problem inside the animal [but if training is not working] it is never the animal, it is the program,” Friedman said. Friedman cited many compelling case studies and funny excerpts from movies and TV shows with videos of humans, zoo animals, cats, dogs, and horses to illustrate her points. Each one clearly underscored a technique or a principle used in behavior analysis. Some of her insights included: your relationship is part of the antecedent conditions; “problem behaviors [are created by] intermittent reinforcement;” and the strength of “what a cue predicts” (not its “loudness or showiness”) reflects the cue’s strength. A great deal of time was spent on this last point. As many professionals already know, there is a divergence in thought as to whether or not to reinforce an animal every time you mark a desired behavior. Some trainers believe that the marker (often a click made with a clicker) can be both a reinforcer and a keepgoing signal. This technique is prevalent in zoos. In the dog training world, clicks are usually backed up with a reinforcer each time. Friedman is firmly in the latter camp: she asked, how can a sound mean “two different things?” A bridge (or marker) “ends the behavior,” and means look for the reinforcer. If sometimes it means a reinforcer is coming and sometimes it means another cue is coming then you are trying to make the click mean “two different things,” which weakens the click’s effectiveness as a bridge: It does not strongly predict that food is coming. Friedman acknowledged that the click is reinforcing in and of itself, but this is only true for a time; its reinforcing nature will become extinct if you do not “reliably pair it with an unconditioned reinforcer.”

EVENTS

Friedman also discussed the power of intermittent reinforcers. Indeed, she stated they are why problem behaviors become so resilient. But in training, we are not often looking to create a behavior that occurs often and not in association with a cue. Rather, we are looking for a behavior that reliably occurs after a cue is given. According to Friedman, reinforcing each time a behavior occurs in response to its cue makes the behavior more reliable because it makes the cue stronger. As stated previously, Friedman believes that a cue’s strength is reflected in the strength of what it predicts. So, if we want to teach a cat to play with toys on his own when we are away, we should use intermittent reinforcement after the behavior has been established. But if we want a cat to come when we call, use continuous reinforcement. There were many more words of wisdom, all based on experience and accompanied with examples and interesting slides and videos. I have only provided a glimpse of some of the insights Friedman provided. I decided not to describe some of the humorous videos and compelling case studies, so that if you do attend a Living and Learning seminar, you can experience them as intended, and not have their impact dulled by a “spoiler” of sorts. As a cat behavior consultant I was unsure whether or not this event would be applicable but it most certainly was. n Patience Fisher BS DipFBST CVA BSBIO is a certified veterinary assistant and owner of Patience, www.patienceforcats.com, a feline behavior consulting service located in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. She volunteered at shelters for four years, helping with cat adoptions and specializing in fostering cats with behavioral problems, and is also an academic freelance editor.

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Topics may include training, ethology, learning theory, behavior specifics... or anything else you can think of. We’ll even do some practice runs with you to help you along (if you need them!) BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

BUSINESS

Split, Don’t Lump!

Niki Tudge explains how you and your business can benefit from effective

time management

The only thing even in this world is the number of hours in a day.The difference in winning or losing is what you do with those hours. - Woody Hayes

ime management is in itself an extensive topic. Just a few months ago I delivered two 90-minute webinars on this very subject and even then I felt I had only skirted around some of the necessary areas. Time management is so much more than just managing time. It is also about managing oneself and one’s clients in relation to time. It covers areas like setting goals and priorities. It means changing habits or activities that cause you to waste time, and being willing to experiment with different methods to enable you to maximize use of your time. In our business, time is money, a perishable commodity that, once gone, can never be regained. Our booking and communication systems need to be managed diligently so we can see the maximum number of clients in the hours we allocate to our businesses. I will not cover all the necessary components of time management here but will focus on the elements I feel are the most important. One of the first things you need to do to improve your use of time is to remove all internal and external time wasters. A time waster is something that distracts or takes you away from tasks you are working on. These can be internal, for example, things in your office such as other people, emails or social media, or external factors that impose themselves from outside your location. These might include overly clingy friends, unnecessary emails or reactionary communications, where somebody else’s poor planning seems to become an emergency for you. Find the courage to remove or limit these “time thieves.” This will help you concentrate and get things done. To manage your internal time wasters you will need to develop new habits and some self-discipline. Practice cutting or limiting the one thing that distracts you the most. It may be constantly checking texts or chatting to friends. Put up some parameters to prevent these things infringing on your time.You will be surprised at the results when you see how such small steps can improve your time management.

According to the Pareto Principle, one’s best results come from just 20 percent of one’s actions

Time management involves removing all internal and external time wasters

Pareto’s Principle, aka the 80/20 rule, states that your results will come from just 20 percent of your actions. In most walks of life this is normally right on the nose. Ask yourself if you are focusing your time on the 20 percent of your activities that produce 80 percent of your results or the other way round. Pareto’s Principle: A principle, named after economist, Vilfredo Pareto, specifying an unequal relationship between inputs and outputs.

Managing time effectively means being able to choose what you do and how you prioritize it. This means you need to be not only efficient but also effective.You should be spending time on things that are important and not just urgent. Can you distinguish between the two? Important versus Urgent IMPORTANT:These are activities that lead you to achieving your goals and have the greatest impact on your life. URGENT:These activities demand immediate attention but will not contribute to long-term goals or activities. They are often a burden placed on you by others.

In a 1954 speech to the Second Assembly of the World Council of Churches, former President of the United States Dwight Eisenhower, who was quoting Dr. J. Roscoe Miller, president of Northwestern University, said: "I have two kinds of problems: the urgent and the important. The urgent are not important, and the important are never urgent." In his book, The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People (1994), Steven Covey popularized this so-called Eisenhower Principle with the development of a matrix geared towards organizing tasks, and the concept soon became mainstream. BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

“What is important is seldom urgent and what is urgent is seldom important.” - Dwight Eisenhower

Most people have a tendency to work on whatever has most recently landed on their desk, answer emails or focus on a specific task someone is pressuring them to complete. I hear so often from business consulting clients that they have no time to work on their goals or their projects because they are just so busy. They are so busy working on urgent matters that the important things never get done.

The Urgent/Important Matrix

The matrix breaks up tasks as follows: • Urgent and Important: Activities in this area relate to dealing with critical issues as they arise and meeting significant commitments. Perform these duties now. • Important but Not Urgent: These success-oriented tasks are critical to achieving goals. Plan to do these tasks next. • Urgent but Not Important: These impositions do not move you forward toward your own goals. Manage them by delaying them, cutting them short and rejecting requests from other people. Postpone these. • Not Urgent and Not Important: These trivial interruptions are just a distraction. Avoid these distractions altogether. The one complaint I constantly hear is: “I never have time to work on projects.” Projects can often be so overwhelming it is difficult to get them started. Or, because they are so overwhelming, and if you do not have a time management system, you work on them from start to finish so the remainder of your business life falls into disarray. Think about teaching new behaviors to clients and dogs. We always say break things down into several steps. Do not expect to achieve everything at once. If we take a similar approach, we can work progressively on our large projects and goals. First of all divide the project into manageable chunks. Then you can block off time in your calendar to work on it. Once the time is allocated make sure you stick to it.

The Criteria

Break large projects into specific tasks that can be completed in a set period of time. In the dog training world we would say, “Split don’t lump!” • Allocate Time: Rather than trying to schedule the entire project all at once set times to complete the specific pieces. Schedule them when you function best. If you are a night owl then do not schedule them at 7 a.m. Most of my creative work is done late at night as I function well then. • Plan Action: Now, get it done. Begin each task when you have it scheduled. Don’t procrastinate. Once it is completed, you will feel a huge sense of accomplishment. The management of paper is another area that is often overlooked when it comes to enhancing time management. I recommend getting used to handling one piece of paper at a time and decide what you are going to do with it before moving on to the next one. Poor email management is one of my pet peeves. I often at-

BUSINESS Split, DonÊt Lump!

1. GET IT DONE: If a task can be completed in two minutes or less, do it immediately and then you can move on to more important issues. 2. DELETE IT: If the material is trash or junk, delete it, do not let it sit in your inbox muddling your more important documents. 3. SCHEDULE IT: If the task is one that cannot be completed quickly and needs action, schedule a time to action it and place it in the appropriate file until you do so. Make sure you tag it, or use another follow up system, so you do get back to it in a timely manner and do not forget it. 4. DELEGATE IT: If the task is not yours or can be more easily done by somebody else, then delegate it to the most appropriate person.This does not mean abdicate it.

tend online meetings or webinars where you have a view of the presenter’s screen. The screen may suddenly flash to the presenter’s email as they navigate their files. At this point I have a problematic conditioned emotional response if I see their inbox is full of emails and being used as their time management/project management system. What does that mean? It means emails only get answered when they are found. It can become very problematic if you are managing client emails like this. To better organize email messages you should have a good folder structure below your inbox. Once these are established a folder and message hierarchy system can be put into place. This will help you identify the most important messages first and reduces the risk of you skimming over emails to handle something less urgent. I organize email folders by company and then under each company I have folders in the same way I have any paper folders. That way I always know where to search for email I need. I have a separate folder for key people I correspond with. When emails come in I either respond to them immediately, schedule them for action in my calendar, or file them into the correct folder. The majority of the time my email inbox is empty when I close my office at night. Your inbox is not designed to be a storage area. When you receive an email you do not necessarily have to respond to it immediately but the message should be filed away to an appropriThe email inbox is not intended to be a time or project management system

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

BUSINESS

ate location so you can retrieve it later. If it needs to be handled at a specific time, then make a note in your calendar so you do not forget. If the message needs to be addressed by someone else, then forward it as needed and file the

As we all know, there is nothing more destructive to our time management efforts if, when our computers crash, we lose valuable information or it takes us hours to reinstall and update our file because we had no backup plan in place. n

References An electronic calendar is an effective and reliable way to manage appointments

Delegate versus Abdicate Delegate - entrust (a task or responsibility) to another person, typically one who is less senior than oneself. Abdicate - fail to fulfill or undertake (a responsibility or duty).

original in the correct file. In many cases the email is not needed at all and can be deleted there and then. I guarantee spending time correctly handling email when you first open it will save you time in the long run. Important emails should not be forgotten or lost and it is a good idea to flag them or even highlight them in a different color. Flags can also be used to remind you of an upcoming event or project. Like other routine tasks email is best handled in batches at regularly scheduled times of the day, so allocate time each day for this. It is not good practice to constantly respond to emails as they can become a distraction to the other things you need to work on. It can also help email management if you ask your contacts to use proper email subject lines. This will help you to determine whether incoming mail is business or personal, and urgent or not. Once you file it, searching is much easier if the subject line is relevant to the content. Are you still using a paper calendar but carrying a smartphone? If you are using a calendar of any type to manage client appointments, I highly recommend it be an electronic version that you can synchronize between your smartphone and desktop.You need to have a reliable system that you can back up and that is safe in order to manage the many things you have to do. Calendars can be used for allocating time for tasks, scheduling appointments, keeping track of projects and much more. Google Calendar and mail is free and has some excellent features. I prefer to use Outlook as it allows me to keep tasks separately with follow-up features, plus it is a full contact manager and email client. I can set up my emails directly in it and they do not have to go through a Gmail account or other third party web server. I can also back up the .pst file regularly to make sure all my information is safe and secure.

Covey, S. (1994). The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People. Simon & Schuster Audio

Niki Tudge PCBC-A AABP-CDBT AAPB – CDT is founder and president of the Pet Professional Guild, www.petprofessionalguild.com, The DogSmith, www.dogsmith.com, a national dog training and pet-care license, and DogNostics Career College, www.dognosticselearning.com, and president of Doggone Safe, www.doggonesafe.com. She has business degrees from Oxford Brookes University, UK and has achieved her DipABT and DipCBST. Recently, she has published People Training Skills for Pet Professionals – Your essential guide to engaging, educating and empowering your human clients.

PPG World Service Radio Show www.petprofessionalguild.com/PPG-Broadcast

f the best o Bringing stry to chat, du the pet in and share! le k c u ch

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

PPG World Service is the official international e-radio web-casting arm of PPG, showcasing global news and views on force-free pet care. Join hosts Niki Tudge and Louise Stapleton-Frappell and their special guests at 12 noon EST on the first Sunday of every month!

Confirmation Bias?

COMMENT

Nikki Finn-Loudenslager wonders what the National Football League has in common with

recently watched a film that resonated with me in a big way. Concussion (2015), starring Will Smith, is a movie based on the true story of accomplished Nigerian pathologist, Dr. Bennet Omalu, based in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, who uncovers the truth about brain damage in football players after suffering repeated concussions on the field. The movie delves into the trials and tribulations of Dr. Omalu while he fights against efforts by the National Football League (NFL) to suppress his research on chronic traumatic encephalopathy (CTE). Why did this film resonate with a dog trainer living in a small mountain community in Northwest Colorado, especially one who was born in England and a former soccer fan? North London team Arsenal, to be exact. I felt there were many similarities between Dr. Omalu’s struggles with having his proven scientific research accepted by a predominant industry and that of the dog training industry, a world that I have become part of and one that is currently unregulated. This all left me pondering as to why and how punitive style training methods, harsh equipment and the “alpha wolf” theory are still being employed by many fellow dog trainers and dog-loving public, even after the notion has been proven by science and the leading veterinarian organizations to exacerbate or cause aggressive behaviors, emotional distress, and physical harm to the animals we claim to love? The most recent position statement from the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior states that: “Punishmentbased training methods may be advocated by those without an appreciation of the current status of science in dog training.” Why then, in arguably one of the most progressive nations in the world, do we continue to revert back to this archaic style of dog training and behavior modification? Why does the nation cling so tightly to information published in the paper, Expressions Studies on Wolves by Rudolph Schenkel (1947), who coined the alpha and beta terminology, even though a multitude of up-to-date studies and research disprove his findings? Even Dr. L. David Mech himself, who went on to publish his book The Wolf:The Ecology and Behavior of an Endangered Species (1970), in which he reinforced the notion of the “alpha wolf,” retracted his own findings via the short YouTube video “Alpha”Wolf (2008), claiming that in 35 years scientific research has come a long way and that he has since observed wild wolf packs as family units with most wolf packs consisting of a pair of adults called “parents” or “breeders,” (not “alphas”), and their offspring. Most importantly, why does the aversive style of training continue to be supported by the media and given air time on one of America’s largest non-fiction television channels that reaches out to approximately 86,144,000 homes nationwide? Just like the claim against the tobacco industry in the 90s and

The term ‘alpha’ is still widely used for both dogs and wolves, even though a multitude of up-to-date scientific studies and research repudiate the entire concept

dog training and comes up with some intriguing parallels

the NFL in 2002, could the denial of so many be purely a financial one? Or is the lack of recognition of science-based animal training, one that supports the use of food or other motivational sources to develop behavior patterns and positive associations, more a testament to the human ego? Or is it simply the result of confirmation bias, i.e. the tendency to search for or interpret information to confirm existing beliefs or habits, while giving less or no consideration to other possibilities? These words may be inflammatory to some, and I suspect I may hear from people who have “successfully” and “harmlessly” used a shock collar on a dog to develop a reliable recall, a prong collar to reduce pulling, an alpha roll to stop reactivity and lunging, a water bottle or pennyfilled can to curb nuisance barking. However, what some trainers and dog owners may fail to recognize are the negative side effects of such tools and methods, even when they are in plain sight. I have watched video after video of cringeworthy recorded training sessions where inappropriate techniques are being used, resulting in a dog so stressed that his only option is to eventually shut down, at which point the trainer celebrates success. At the same time, my caseload of working with dogs who have developed leash reactivity, or whose aggressive outbursts have become more severe after experiencing punishment-based training methods continues to grow. Is it possible the effects of these types of training techniques are being passively ignored just like the health warnings of cigarette smoke were in the 90s? Like the BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

COMMENT

of harmful and inappropriate training techniques? The same courage I observed in Dr. Omalu when he took on the NFL? It is possible that the current ongoing research at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia, where dogs have been trained to lie still in an MRI machine to measure their neural responses, will have a positive impact on humanity? Perhaps it will evenAversive training tually have a positive effect on more people practices and the mislabeling of dogs as and how they view their pet dogs. Perhaps ‘dominant’ have been the industry will eventually create a legal govshown by scientific studies to be inaccurate, erning body of its own - a set of rules all prowith the former fessionals must adhere to if they are to potentially causing fearful, anxious and/or practice in the field of pet dog training and aggressive behavior behavior modification. According to Attila Andics (2014), a neuroscientist with the MTA-ELTE Comparative Ethology Research Group and lead author of the study: “Dogs do interact with their human caregivers in the same way babies do their parents. When dogs are scared or worried, they run to their owners, just as distressed toddlers make a beeline for their parents.” © Can Stock Photo/ESIGHT I am determined that my dream of creating a community that supports those that practice only humane, References science-based training methods will become a reality. I cannot stand by and do nothing while I continue to take on case after American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior. (2016). Posicase of insecure, fearful dogs, who have not only been mislabeled tion Statement: Cesar Millan Response. Retrieved July 9, 2016, as “dominant” or trying to be “top dog,” but who have developed from www.avsabonline.org/uploads/position_statements such behaviors due to the training practices of the professional /Cesar_Millan_Response_4-2016.pdf that was hired to help them. This is an industry that is meant to Andics, A. (2014, March).Voice-Sensitive Regions in the Dog and serve as their friend, not their foe. To do otherwise would be an Human Brain Are Revealed by Comparative MRI. Current Biology injustice to my profession, and a huge injustice to the animals (24) 5 574-578. doi: dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2014.01.058 Mech, L.D. (1970). The Wolf: The Ecology and Behavior of an that cannot speak up for themselves. n Endangered Species. Minneapolis, Minnesota: University of Minnesota Press Mech, L.D. (Producer). (2008). “Alpha” Wolf [Video]. Retrieved July 9, 2016, from www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNtFgdwTsbU BARKS from the Guild is a 60+ page trade publication Omalu, B., DeKosky, S.T., Minster, R.L., Kamboh, M.I., Hamilton, available to PPG members, supporters and the general public. If you would like to reach your target audience then BARKS R.L., & Wecht, C.H. (2006, May). Chronic Traumatic Enfrom the Guild is the perfect vehicle to achieve that goal! cephalopathy in a National Football League Player. Neurosurgery 58 (5). Retrieved July 9, 2016, from www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov /pubmed/15987548 Schenkel, R. (1947). Expressions: Studies on Wolves. Retrieved July 9, 2016, from www.davemech.org/schenkel /ExpressionstudiesP.1-10.pdf

effects of repeated concussions received by professional football players were largely ignored in the mid-2000s (and still to this day) by those who have much to lose if they accept the compelling evidence that threatens their current practices or way of life? I often wonder why I adopted this industry as my own. Thinking back to my pet sitting and dog walking days, life seemed much simpler then. I would turn up at a client’s home, feed Fido, go for a relaxing walk with him, and return home to play a game or two of fetch, and then retire on the couch for a snuggle before bedtime. I was even making a decent living out of it. But something inside me wanted to do more and have more of an impact on how dogs are seen in my community, and, indeed, the world. Will I ever gain enough courage to challenge the dog training industry about the ongoing support

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Nikki Finn-Loudenslager is the owner/trainer of On The Right Track Professional Dog Training, www .righttrackdogtraining.com, providing science- based dog training and behavior modification services to mountain communities of Northwest Colorado. Before graduating from Catch Dog Training Academy in 2015, she spent many years in the rescue world assessing and rehabilitating dogs while in foster care and successfully paired hundreds of rescue pups with their forever families. She is currently working towards her IAABC certification.

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

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A Special Legacy

PROFILE

In our ongoing series of PPG member profiles, this month BARKS features Melissa Chow of

Paws of Change Training and Behavior in Fredericksburg, Virginia

elissa Chow is a certified professional behaviorist and dog trainer (CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, PMCT) who has been working and volunteering with rescue dogs since childhood. Prior to entering the world of dog training she was a professional pet sitter in northern Virginia and had a career as a business manager for about 12 years. She also earned a bachelors in criminology.

Melissa Chow with Jewel who, sadly, was recently diagnosed with late stage bladder cancer. Chow found foster failure Jewel six years ago and rescued her when she was at “death’s door”

Q: How did you first get into animal behavior and training, and what are you doing now?

A: About six years ago I found myself in a situation that so many pet owners experience today. I had a serious behavior issue with one of my foster dogs, Snickers, who was a very dog reactive and medically challenged pit bull. Determined to "fix" my foster I read countless books, listened to tons of advice from other dog owners, searched online, and used the "old ways" I had seen while growing up. But when I hit a wall for the umpteenth time and nothing was working I decided to go straight to the source of my favorite book so far, Pat Miller’s Power of Positive Training. After bringing both my foster and my other dog on the two-hour journey to Miller’s facility, learning a little bit, and getting a good reality check of what I was in for, instead of opting to return several times with both dogs and driving all those miles, I learned of Pat's Dog Training Academies at Peaceable Paws and decided I would just "do it myself." During my first academy experience I was so stunned because dog behavior and training was extremely similar to all the psychology and behavior courses I had taken to complete my bachelors in criminology. Right then I fell in love with dog behavior. I had always preferred dogs over people anyway! All my experience has come from hands-on experience or in-person observation/lecturing; not online schools, television shows or whatever is popular at any given moment or thought by many to be the quickest. After two years of rigorous study and practice, three academies, and countless free training hours donated to rescue and shelter dogs, I finally reached my first goal to be a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA). Not long after that I was very humbled when, after two years of training, behavior modification, and reactive dog classes I had to make the difficult decision to

euthanize Snickers for my own dog’s safety and for that of my human child who had started to crawl. I could not simply "fix" Snickers and at that point I almost quit everything dog related since I felt I must be terrible at this behavior stuff. In time though, I realized that Snickers was not my failure, but rather the dog who lead me to my passion and who taught me so much. We enjoyed two years of training together and working with each other and building one another up into the best we could be. In early 2012 I opened Paws of Change Training and Behavior in Fredericksburg, Virginia to provide effective, positive, and compassionate training to families and dog rescues. My approach is positive, force-free, and based completely on factual behavioral science. I have a lot of compassion and experience with all breeds, and deep empathy for those dealing with complicated behavioral issues in the dogs they love. I have also managed to have two human children over the past four years (who are not as well trained as I would like!). My mission has always been to help both canines and humans live better together through individual and community education, training, counseling, and most of all through compassion and empathy for one another, both dog and human. Q:Tell us a little bit about your own pets:

A: I currently have four of my own dogs and one foster. My oldest is Jag, a 15-year-old pit bull who was my first dog as an adult, and who was found by my husband at the age of 4 weeks old. The other three dogs are all rescues: Snoopy, a 13-year-old beagle, Jewel, a 15-year-old pit bull (pictured, above), and Jessie, a 2 year-old pit bull/Labrador mix. I am a sucker for pit bulls and have been involved pit bull rescue for about eight years so, of course, my current foster is a 5-year-old pit bull/mastiff mix with some reactivity issues.

Q: Why did you become a dog trainer or pet care provider?

A: I thought I knew everything about dogs until I was fostering Snickers, who had severe dog reactivity and nothing I knew was working or improving her behavior. I finally saw a professional (Pat Miller, as previously mentioned) and decided to learn how to train her myself by attending Miller’s level one academy. I have attended several since, and have fallen in love with dogs more than BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

PROFILE

ever. I also wanted to show other people how dogs really learn and try to keep as many as I could in their forever homes. Q: Are you a crossover trainer or have you always been a force-free trainer?

A: I am not sure if I count as a "crossover trainer" since I only became a trainer after discovering the world of positive training methods. But I did grow up observing more negative behavior towards dogs who â&#x20AC;&#x153;didn't listen," which included yelling, squirting the dog with water, using a prong for a quick fix, and leash checks.

Q:What do you consider to be your area of expertise?

A: Behavior modification.

Q: How has PPG helped you to become a more complete trainer?

A: PPG is the first organization that does not leave room for the use of force, even as a last resort. The educational options are endless through the webinars and resources offered, and they are starting to roll out some great programs such as Project Trade, www.petprofessionalguild.com/Project-Trade, in which I participate, and also new training programs and certifications. Q: What are some of your favorite positive reinforcement techniques for the most commonly encountered client-dog problems?

A: My favorite is simple: Reward the behaviors you want and ignore the ones you don't. This can be used with just about everything, even the heavy behavioral stuff. After all, it is all behavioral. Once your client understands how reinforcement works, how their actions may harbor the unwanted behaviors and how to simply change their interactions with the dog, you see the light turn on for them and they become their dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best trainer. Q: What is the funniest or craziest situation you have been in with a pet and their owner?

A: A client who had a severely fearful dog that I had worked with twice at that point, called me in a panic one day because her other dog had killed a groundhog and was rolling in it and guarding it. She lived about 30 miles away, but I went out to her home, distracted and removed her dog, and then cleaned up the aftermath. Q: What reward do you get out of a day's training?

A: Hope.You come to a client who is at their wits end and they think you are their last resort, but by time you have covered the problems, given them a plan, and a helping hand to reach out to, you can see the hope they have and a renewed passion for their dog. Q: What drives you to be a force-free professional and why is it important to you?

BARKS from the Guild/September 2016

A: It just makes sense. If you have studied science and/or psychology you cannot deny the facts of behavioral science. Plus it is fun! You get to see the dog thinking, learning, and enjoying the training and, in turn, living more happily within their families. Forcefree is so important to me because there really is no room for the use of any force, no matter what, even as a "last resort." Everything involved in training and behavior can be done forcefree so why would you ever need to employ aversive methods when there is such a humane, fun, and successful way to do it? Q: What is your favorite part of the job?

A: Working with behavioral issues like reactivity, aggression, separation related disorders, anxiety, etc.

Q: What awards or competition placements have you and your dog(s) achieved using force-free methods?

A: Honestly I do find dog sports fun and would like to try them just for fun. I do play around with some basic agility in my group classes, but have never seriously done any of them myself. I have only ever worked on basic-advanced manners and specialize in behavior modification. Q: Who has most influenced your career and how?

A: Human: Pat Miller. If you know her then you know she is always upfront and honest. While at first that scared me, it also challenged me and I love a good challenge! Miller focuses on so much of the behavioral stuff in her books and academies and also has a history in shelter/rescue work. Anyone can read and understand her books and lectures. Canine: Snickers. She had it bad from the beginning of her life, and at one point was hairless, covered in scabs and very undersized. Snickers changed my life and the way I handled and "helped" dogs in rescue. She made me the dedicated behavior consultant I am today. She may not have been able to stay with us here on Earth, but because of her we have been able to help countless dogs stay in their homes and plenty more to find new homes. Q: What advice would you give to a new trainer starting out?

A: When a training session seems not to be going well, just breathe and work with the foundations you know. If you are unsure what to do, don't play it off but give the client what you can and inform them that you will reach out to fellow professionals and get some more information to help them. And never be afraid to refer out. The best trainers know when it is best to refer to another professional rather than hold the client and dog back due to a fear of failure or lack of knowledge. In fact it is just the opposite, failure is when we don't move forward. n Paws of Change Training and Behavior is located in Fredericksburg,Virginia www.pawsofchange.com

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