peut ĂŞtre Issue 8
The Fashion Issue
Beaded logo and customized vintage perfecto by Johnny Romance for Peut-ĂŞtre
CORPUS DÉLIT - STUDIO D’ILLUSTRATION ET DE GRAPHISME - créatrices de dessins éphémères pour la peau -
corpus.delit@gmail.com
+ - site -
www.corpus-delit.com - boutique -
www.corpusdelit.com
Top, trousers and necklace Lanvin. Make-up by Joséphine Bouchereau: Le Blanc de Chanel, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Eylashes Shu Uemura, White Pencil and Lipstick “Girl about town” Mac.
011
CONTENTS
Issue 8
Patent shoes Lanvin. Blackberries L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet
013
A WORD FROM THE EDITOR
014
Since geometry is the right foundation of all painting
038
LUXURIANT BEAUTY
064
LIFT MY WINGS
075
THE ENCHANTED GARDEN
096
I talk to God but the sky is empty
126
THE PURPLE NIGHT
138
THE PURPLE NIGHT Continues
150
LA LUNE EST LE SOLEIL DES STATUES
170
I TRIED TO DISCOVER
180
From my rotting body, flowers shall grow
199
MEDIEVAL FANTASY
227
CONTRIBUTORS
On our cover: Jacket and knuckle rings worn as hair clips Chanel Haute Couture. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eyeliner Mac, Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent, Lipstick “Rapturous” Mac. Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft. On our back cover: Ostrich feather skirt, cape and veil Yiqing Yin. Soft ballet shoes Repetto. Vintage gloves Territori. Headpiece photographer’s own. Make-up: Le Blanc de Chanel, Star Powder 900 Make Up Forever, White Eye Shadow Mac.
Dress Lanvin. Earrings Territori by Alessandra Bruni. Make-up by Joséphine Bouchereau: Eyeshadow Kryolan, Eyelashes Shu Uemura, White eye pencil Mac, Lipstick “Girl about town” Mac.
A WORD FROM THE EDITOR
013
Backstage after the presentation of her Fall 2013 Haute Couture collection, I asked designer Yiqing Yin if she considered herself an artist. Pensively, she said no, because “the purpose of a fashion designer is to create an object to be worn by someone, something that serves a purpose, not simply an object that stands alone. The person who wears the clothing embodies it, finishes it, projecting into it a mentality, a personality, and a way of life.” Indeed, through clothes we can define ourselves, project to others who we are, or who we would like to be, telling a story through them. This is what we sought out to do in this issue of Peut-être through Fuoguli Dtuyyft, as she embodies the different characters in stories from Peut-être’s Creative Director Nathalie Malric’s imagination. In her capacity as photographer, Nathalie Malric witnesses others’ vision, capturing the mood of a collection, or what she likes most in it with Peut-être’s ‘Behind the Scenes’ features. Shooting and creating editorials was a change from that, as she created her own world, her own vision, choosing pieces, clothes, accessories, and jewellery that were in keeping with the ‘Peut-être aesthetic’, and also as if they were for herself. Envisioning how she would wear those pieces, she created different characters “played” by Fuogoli, different variations of herself, or who she could be in another world. In the ‘Yohji Yamamoto’ editorial, Fuoguli places her hands in the side openings of the dress as if they were pockets, emulating the models she loved to watch in couture shows. Despite donning beautiful and elegant garments, they do so with a nonchalant air about them. In the ‘‘The Enchanted Garden’ editorial Fuogoli finds herself in a dream-like ‘Garden of Eden’, intriguing and opulent, and in ‘Medieval Fantasy’ she is a valiant heroine. The story telling extended from the clothes, jewellery and accessories to the makeup, as make-artist Joséphine Bouchereau applied her artistry to create different looks for each outfit and editorial, paying attention to every detail, even if the change was subtle. Having always loved the idea of using flowers for make-up, she suggested applying them to Fuoguli’s eyebrow, after seeing the hydrangeas on the table during ‘The Enchanted Garden’ shoot. It was an inspired idea that was perfect for the enchanted, dreamlike yet opulent mood of that editorial. Among well-known labels such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Valentino, you will find pieces featured by up and coming labels, such as the beautiful beaded blouse in the ‘Lift my Wings’ editorial by Antoine Dupire, one half of the designing duo behind the label ‘L’Orient Express’, and the ‘Territori by Alessandra Bruni’ necklace featured in ‘The Purple Night Continues’. Nathalie discovered Alessandra’s store near her apartment, where she creates unique jewellery by breathing new life to vintage finds and heirloom pieces. Both challenging and exciting, we are delighted to present ‘The Fashion Issue’, and hope you enjoy it as much as we did bringing it to you.
Clarice Chian, Fashion Writer & Editor
All images copyright © Nathalie Malric unless otherwise indicated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the publisher. Copyright Peut-Être magazine 2011-2012
014
Chane l
Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“Since geometry is the right foundation of all painting, I have decided to teach its rudiments and principles to all youngsters eager for art” Albrecht Dürer
015
Jacket and knuckle rings worn as hair clips Chanel Haute Couture. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eyeliner Mac, Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent, Lipstick “Rapturous” Mac.
Sequined dress and boots Chanel Haute Couture
017
“For the love of the art of Haute Couture” Although incredibly exciting and visually stunning, it is impossible to fully appreciate the breathtaking details in a Chanel Haute Couture piece until you see them close up. Only then, can you take in the awe-inspiring handiwork of the ateliers of Chanel’s Paraffection and petites mains (literally meaning “small hands”, they are the collective 2,200 talented and hard-working seamstresses who meticulously bring haute couture creations to life). Translating to “for the love of ”, Paraffection is a branch of the Chanel company that has gradually acquired ateliers of crafts, such as embroiderers Lesage and plumassier Lemarié. The most recent addition to the Maison’s portfolio of embroiderers, bespoke shoemakers, milliners, and plume and flower makers is Gérard Lognon, an atelier specializing in custom pleating. Although owned by Chanel, the ateliers are still independent, and are therefore free to work with other fashion houses. The purpose of the Paraffection is to preserve the savoir-faire of these specialist ateliers, their heritage, craft and manufacturing skills, thereby maintaining the art and traditions of haute couture. I recently had the privilege of visiting the Parisian ateliers of the Paraffection, an eye-opening and awe-inspiring experience. Following a rendez-vous outside Chanel in Place Vendôme, we traveled to the outskirts of Paris, where renowned ateliers Lesage, Lemarié, and Maison Michel are found under one roof in a light-filled lofty building. At Lesage, all embroidery work is done by hand, from hand drawing the patterns to tracing them, transferring them with the pinprick and chalk method, and of course, the embroidery itself. “There is no couture without embroidery and no embroidery without Lesage.” Karl Lagerfeld once said, which proves to be true with every Chanel couture show, the latest Fall 2013 collection being no exception. Trompe l’oeil tweeds were, in fact, masterpiece embroideries of shreds of chiffon, wool, and metallic filaments. Translucent tulle and organza were embroidered with delicate tiny beads and ribbed silk faille’s that created optical illusions, creating intricate threedimensional Escher-like patterns, or embroidered with rows of sequins to create a dress of silver micro strips, used as a backdrop to dazzling cut-mirror embellishments. At Lemarié I observed their delicate feather work and the creation of Chanel’s famous camellias. Each camellia can demand hours of work depending on the nature of the design, as they are handmade with centuries-old metal tools to form silk, leather, tweed, velvet and chiffon into delicate layers of petals. In addition to their feather and flower work, the atelier also produces smocking, ruffles and inserts. I watched a seamstress create little origami-like squares made of tiny folds of coloured chiffon, each layer folded and sewn by hand to create one origami square. Hundreds of these little squares were then handsewn together to create a tiled panel used for the dress worn on the runway, and now here, by Fuogoli for our ‘Chanel’ editorial. During my visit to the ateliers I learnt that the production time for each couture piece could total up to a staggering 1000 hours, deepening my appreciation for the art of haute couture and the work of ‘les petites mains’.
Clarice Chian
Lego Bags Chanel
Coat, boots and hat Chanel Haute Couture. Brooch Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Liner “Plum liner” Lancôme, Blush Chanel, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Lipstick Lancôme, Nails Le Vernis Rouge Noir 18 Chanel.
Origami dress Chanel Haute Couture. Purse and Belt Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Liner “Plum liner” Lancôme, Blush Chanel, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Lipstick Lancôme, Nails Le Vernis Blue Satin 461 Chanel.
Detail of origami jacket Chanel Haute Couture
Origami jacket and hat Chanel Haute Couture. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent, Eye Liner and white pencil Mac.
Embroidered dress Chanel Haute Couture. Shoes and bracelet Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Liner “Plum liner” Lancôme, Blush Chanel, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Lipstick Lancôme, Nails Le Vernis Blue Satin 461 Chanel.
Detail of embroidered dress Chanel Haute Couture
Sequined blouse Chanel Haute Couture
Sequined blouse, skirt and boots Chanel Haute Couture. Pochette Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye liner “plum liner” Lancôme.
Sequined blouse, skirt and boots Chanel Haute Couture. Pochette Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye liner “plum liner” Lancôme, Nails Le Vernis Graphite 529 Chanel.
Sequined blouse Chanel Haute Couture
Detail of sequined tweed, silk tulle and raphia dress Chanel Haute Couture
Sequined tweed, silk tulle and raphia dress Chanel Haute Couture. Make up : Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye liner “plum liner” Lancôme, Lipstick Mac, Crystals Swarovski.
Sequined dress Chanel Haute Couture
Silk tulle dress and knuckle rings Chanel Haute Couture. Sequined derbies Chanel. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Liner Lanc么me, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Pigments Mac, Eyelashes Shu Uemura,White Pencil and Lipstick Mac, Nails Le Vernis Graphite 529 Chanel.
Sequined derbies Chanel
Coco Noir purse Chanel
Silk tulle dress and knuckle rings Chanel Haute Couture. Make-up: Le Blanc De Chanel, Eye Liner Lanc么me, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Pigments Mac, Eyelashes Shu Uemura, White Pencil and Lipstick Mac, Nails Le Vernis Graphite 529 Chanel.
038
Luxuriant Beauty The scarlett letter Nathaniel Hawthorne
“We have spoken of Pearl’s rich and luxuriant beauty; a beauty that shone with deep and vivid tints; a bright complexion, eyes possessing intensity both of depth and glow, and hair already of a deep, glossy brown,and which, in after years, would be nearly akin to black”
Location: House Of Hackney - London. Photography Nathalie Malric. Styling Marina de Magalhaes. Hair Haruhide Ishizaki using Bumble and Bumble. Make-up Lara Himpelmann. Model Neelam at Models 1. Assistant Styling Ana Rita Bracker.
039
Coat Paul Smith. Knitwear Y’s. Hat stylist’s own.
Blouse and trousers Akris. Bag FedoraMi. Pendant Lily Kamper. Bracelet Only Child London. Ring Pebble London.
Coat Paul Smith. Dress Tsumori Chisato. Knitwear Y’s. Hat stylist’s own. Necklace Shourouk.
Upholstery fabric House of Hackney
Coat Paul Smith. Dress Tsumori Chisato. Knitwear Y’s. Hat stylist’s own. Necklace Shourouk.
Shoes Charlotte Olympia. Socks stylist own.
House of Hackney
Pullover Antipodium. Blouse Beyond Retro. Jacket, skirt and boots Hasan Hejazi. Glasses Moo Piyasombatkul. Scarf worn on hips Y’s.
Detail of cussion House of Hackney
Blouse trousers by Akris. Sunglasses A-Morir. Necklace, bracelets and ring Pebble London. Belt Tsumori Chisato.
Blouse trousers by Akris. Sunglasses A-Morir. Necklace, bracelets and ring Pebble London. Belt Tsumori Chisato.
Necklace Pebble London. Earrings Shourouk. Glasses Moo Piyasombatkul. Boots Charlotte Olympia. Belt Tsumori Chisato.
Necklaces Pebble London
Trousers Antipodium. Shoes Swash. Socks stylist’s own.
Shoes LIMI feu
House of Hackney
Sweater Tsumori Chisato. Shirt Y's. Trousers Beyond Retro. Necklace and ring Pebble London.
Handbag De Gris
Knitwear Camilla Woodman. Inside shirt Paul Smith. Trousers LIMI feu. Necklace Pebble London. Bracelets Only Child London.
Flowers Wild At Heart at House of Hackney
Bracelets Only Child London. Gloves stylist’s own.
Sunglasses A-Morir. Necklaces Pebble London.
???????
064
Lift my Wings
Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“The sense of death is most in apprehension; And the poor beetle, that we tread upon, In corporal sufferance finds a pang as great As when a giant dies.” William Shakespeare
065
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire. Skirt Lanvin. Shoes Valentino.
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire. Make-up: Le Blanc de Chanel, Eye Shadow Kryolan, Eyelashes† Shu Uemura, White Pencil and Lipstick “Girl about town” Mac.
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire. Skirt Lanvin.
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire. Skirt Lanvin. Shoes Valentino.
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire
Embroidered silk blouse Antoine Dupire
074
Adonis Rose necklace, white gold, diamonds, De Beers. Arpeggia 3 row bracelet, white gold, diamonds, De Beers. Mountain ash branches, L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
075
The Enchanted Garden Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“ Won’t you come into the garden? I would like my roses to see you” Richard Brinsley Sheridan
Halo Delilah necklace, Hôtel de la Lumiere Collection, in white gold set with diamonds and pink gold set morganites, Boucheron. Hydrangeas: L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
077
Imagine an enchanted, lavish and paradisiacal garden, where flowers drip with jewellery by Boucheron, Christian Dior, Cartier, Chopard, De Beers and Jaeger-LeCoultre. A Dior evening skirt in thick and shiny satin is given a new identity as a caped dress with its exposed two-way silver zipper. Meanwhile, a delightfully oversized and cosy mohair coat by Carven is the perfect piece to snuggle in, like a beautiful comfy blanket. Behold, ‘The Enchanted Garden’.
Clarice Chian
“Crash� watch in pink gold paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, Cartier
Skirt worn as a cape and shoes, Christian Dior. Coat Carven. Make-up: Eye shadow Kryolan. Eyelashes Shu Uemura x Swarovski.
Detail of skirt Dior
Pink gold ring from the Xtravaganza collection set with 246 diamonds, Chopard
White gold earrings from the Copacabana collection set, blue briolette sapphires, diamonds, Chopard
White gold ring from the Copacabana collection set, blue briolette sapphires, diamonds, Chopard
Dress Dior. Coat Carven. Make-up: Eye shadow Kryolan, Lipstick “Seriously rich” Mac.
“Gourmande Escargot” ring, yellow gold, diamond and moonstone. Dior Fine Jewellery.
Shoes Dior. Hydrangea L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
“Rose Dior Pré Catelan” earrings, pink gold, diamonds and pink quartz. Dior Fine Jewellery. “Mangatus” ring, yellow gold, diamonds, orange sapphires and lacquer. Dior Fine Jewellery .
Detail of dress, Dior
Jumper and shoes Emporio Armani. Stockings Kronkron. Make-up: Eye shadow “les yeux doux” Lancôme, Numéro 2 Blush and Lipstick Armani.
Coat Louis Vuitton. Pants Emporio Armani. Shoes Hudson. Pleated blouse from the stylist’s own. Make up: Eye shadow “les yeux doux” Lancôme, Numéro 2 Blush and Lipstick Armani.
Halo Delilah earrings, H么tel de la Lumiere Collection, in white gold set with diamonds and pink gold set morganites, Boucheron.
Halo Delilah ring, H么tel de la Lumiere Collection, in white gold set with diamonds and pink gold set morganites, Boucheron.
Halo Delilah necklace, H么tel de la Lumiere Collection, in white gold set with diamonds and pink gold set morganites, Boucheron.
Rendez-Vous Wild Rose Watch. White gold, diamonds, mother of pearl, gray satin strap, Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Dress Dior. Coat Carven. Make-up: Eye shadow Kryolan, Lipstick “Seriously rich” Mac.
096
“I talk to God but the sky is empty”
Sylvia Plath
Photography Nathalie Malric. Styling Marina de Magalhaes. Hair Yuri Nakajima using Bumble and Bumble surf and thickening spray, Kiel’s grooming. cream and Elnett hair spray. Make-up Michelle Dacillo. Model Katya Grechenkova at IMG. Styling Assistant Ana Rita Bracker.
097
Dress Charlie May. Gorget Patrick Ian Hartley. Necklace stylist’s own. Ring Mawi.
Dress Charlie May. Gorget Patrick Ian Hartley. Necklace stylist’s own.
Dress Charlie May. Gorget Patrick Ian Hartley. Necklace stylist’s own. Ring Mawi.
Dress Charlie May. Gorget Patrick Ian Hartley. Necklace stylist’s own.
Dress Fyodor Golan. Gorget Patrick Ian Hartley. Ruffle hood worn as collar Jessica Broas.
Detail of dress Fyodor Godan
Detail of dress Nicholas Oakwell
Dress Nicholas Oakwell. Inside shirt Beyond Retro.
Top Zeynep Tosun. Inside top Charlie May. Skirt Silvina Maestro. Socks Stylist’s Own.
Top Zeynep Tosun. Inside top Charlie May.
Dress Fyodor Golan. Shirt Beyond Retro. Trousers Zeynep Tosun.
Dress Fyodor Golan. Shirt Beyond Retro. Trousers Zeynep Tosun.
Detail of dress Fyodor Golan
Dress Fyodor Golan. Shirt Beyond Retro. Trousers Zeynep Tosun.
Dress and peplum Alessandra Rich. Inside top Charlie May. Belt Nicholas Oakwell. Pendant Mawi.
Dress Yuki Hagino. Long sleeve dress Alessandra Rich. Earrings Mawi.
Dress Yuki Hagino. Long sleeve dress Alessandra Rich.
Dress and neck warmer J.JS Lee. Veil Jessica Broas. Sandals J.JS Lee. Socks stylist’s own. Ring Mawi.
Dress and neck warmer J.JS Lee. Veil Jessica Broas.
Dress and belt Nicholas Oakwell. Top Charlie May.
Dress and belt Nicholas Oakwell. Top Charlie May.
Dress Nicholas Oakwell
Dress and belt Nicholas Oakwell. Top Charlie May.
Dress Nicholas Oakwell. Top Charlie May. Veil Jessica Broas.
126
THE PURPLE NIGHT
Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“Night, the beloved. Night, when words fade and things come alive. When the destructive analysis of day is done, and all that is trulyimportant becomes whole and sound again. When man reassembles his fragmentary self and grows with the calm of a tree” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
127
Alana Boots Tabitha Simmons. Pendant Territori by Alessandra Bruni. Hydrangeas L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Hydrangeas L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet. Lamb and mink gloves Hermès.
Goat Coat Hermès. Silk tops and skirt Adeline André.
Goat Coat Hermès. Silk tops and skirt Adeline André. Birkin 40 bag Hermès. Alana Boots Tabitha Simmons.
Silk shirt Lanvin. Birkin 40 bag Hermès. Earring Territori by Alessandra Bruni.
Detail of silk shirt Lanvin
Hobby boots Hermès. Troïka orylag cussion Hermès. Hermessence Santal Massoïa fragrance Hermès. Hydrangea L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Goat Coat Hermès. Silk tops and skirt Adeline André. Birkin 40 bag Hermès. Alana Boots Tabitha Simmons.
Booties Valentino
Birkin 40 bag Hermès. Earring Territori by Alessandra Bruni.
138
louis vuitton
THE PURPLE NIGHT c o ntinue s Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“I often think that the night is more alive and more richly colored than the day” Vincent Van Gogh
139
Detail of sequined coat Louis Vuitton
Detail of velvet and feather cut dress Louis Vuitton
141
Like Van Gogh’s ‘Starry night’, Louis Vuitton’s collection using rich velvets, astrakhan furs, lush satins with delicate floral motifs, and sequined tweeds shine like stars in shades of soft lilacs and blush, plums and maroons. Marc Jacob’s focus for his penultimate collection for Louis Vuitton was on the “luxurious quality and treatment of the materials produced by the savoir faire of the Louis Vuitton ateliers”. Despite all the luxury, the collection exuded a relaxed sophistication, with loungewear as the foundation for the collection. Jacobs offset lace-trimmed feminine pieces with traditional menswear fabrics, tweeds in particular. Checked tweed pieces like the anklegrazing overcoats resembling ‘robe de chambres’ were embellished with a degrade of sequins that dissolved to a band at the hemline. Even the Maison’s iconic bags received the luxury treatment, such as the Speedy in python skin. The night draws to a close along with Marc Jacob’s illustrious time at Louis Vuitton. We are excited to see what Nicholas Guesquiere will bring next Fall, the dawn of a new era for Louis Vuitton.
Clarice Chian
Velvet and feather cut dress Louis Vuitton
Necklace Territori by Alessandra Bruni
Astrakhan coat and python Speedy 20 Louis Vuitton
Jumper Y’s. Astrakhan coat Louis Vuitton. Amethyst pendant René Talmont L’Armée.
Sequined tweed coat Louis Vuitton. Jumper Y’s. Patent gloves Maison Fabre
Detail of sequined coat Louis Vuitton
Detail of satin coat Louis Vuitton
Satin coat Louis Vuitton
150
“La lune est le soleil des statues” Essai de Critique Indirecte. Jean Cocteau.
Photography, Styling, Hair, Make-up Nathalie Malric. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
151
Articulated necklace in white gold and white diamonds, “Rosace� Collection, Poiray Fine jewelry. Vintage ceramic head, Territori.
Van Cleef & Arpels high Jewelry Couleur Noir & Blanc watch, White gold, bezel set with baguette diamonds, white mother of pearl and buff top onyx cabochons
From left to right: Mademoiselle PrivĂŠ Collection watch, white gold, diamonds, sapphire and onyx, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Limelight Gala watch, white gold and diamonds, Piaget. Altiplano watch, white gold, diamonds and sapphire, Piaget. Mademoiselle PrivĂŠ Collection watch, white gold, diamonds, sapphire and onyx, Chanel Fine Jewelry.
“Nuit de Diamants” bracelet, white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, black-diamonds. “1932” Collection, 80th anniversary of “Bijoux de Diamants” collection by Gabrielle Chanel, Chanel Fine Jewelry.
Ostrich feather skirt, cape and veil Yiqing Yin. Soft ballet shoes Repetto. Vintage gloves Territori by Alessandra Bruni. Headpiece photographer’s own.
“Rendez-Vous Night� watch, stainless steel, diamonds, sapphire, alligator leather bracelet, Jaeger-LeCoultre. Vintage mannequin hand, Territori.
“Bouton de Camélia” earrings, white gold and diamonds. “Jardin de Camélias” collection, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Vintage statuette Territori.
Ostrich feather skirt, cape and veil Yiqing Yin. Soft ballet shoes Repetto. Vintage gloves Territori.Headpiece photographer’s own.
Shoes Giorgio Armani. Cocktail earrings in engraved yellow and white gold, set with emeralds and lapis lazuli, Buccellati. Vintage mannequin hand, Territori.
Shoes, Cherevichkiotvichki. Available at LN-CC.com. Photo: Andy Malone.
“Nuit de Diamants” hoops, white gold, white and black diamonds,“1932” Collection, 80th anniversary of “Bijoux de Diamants” collection by Gabrielle Chanel, Chanel Fine Jewelry.
Patent purse Giorgio Armani. Detail of “Nuit de Diamants” hoops, white gold, white and black diamonds. “1932” Collection, 80th anniversary of “Bijoux de Diamants” collection by Gabrielle Chanel, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Vintage mannequin hand, Territori.
Ostrich feather skirt, cape and veil Yiqing Yin. Soft ballet shoes Repetto. Vintage gloves Territori. Headpiece photographer’s own.
Grand Saturne Ring , mother of pearl, platinum, Mikimoto
World of Creativity Ring , mother of pearl, platinum, Mikimoto
Altiplano watch, white gold, diamonds and sapphire, Piaget
Top: Watch Patrimony Contemporaine Lady, pink gold, Vacheron Constantin. Bottom: Watch Clifton, red gold, sapphire crystal, alligator bracelet, Baume & Mercier. Vintage mannequin hands, Territori.
Ostrich feather skirt, cape and veil Yiqing Yin. Soft ballet shoes Repetto.Vintage gloves Territori. Headpiece photographer’s own. Make-up: Le Blanc de Chanel, Star Powder 900 Make Up Forever, White Eye Shadow Mac.
170
Yohji Yamamoto Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“I tried to discover, in the rumor of forests and waves, words that other men could not hear,
and I pricked up my ears to listen
to the revelation of their harmony” November Gustave Flaubert
171
Dress Yohji Yamamoto
Detail of dress Yohji Yamamoto
Dress and hat Yohji Yamamoto
Detail of dress Yohji Yamamoto
Detail of dress Yohji Yamamoto
Dress, hat and boots Yohji Yamamoto
Boot Yohji Yamamoto. Flowers from L’Arrosoir by Christine and Alain Bousquet.
180
“From my rotting body, flowers shall grow and I am in them and that is eternity� Edvard Munch
Photography, Styling, Hair, Make-up Nathalie Malric. Model Chris Arundel - Storm Models.
181
Lace Dentelles Sophie Hallette. Headpiece Nathalie Malric. Make-up: Foundation Mac. Foundation Le Blanc de Chanel, Le Crayon Kh么l Chanel.
High Jewellery Necklace “Luxuriante”, diamonds, white pearls, white gold. Convertible into a tiara, Mellerio Dits Meller. High Jewellery ring “Luxuriante”, diamonds, white gold, Mellerio Dits Meller.
Lace Dentelles Sophie Hallette
Ring in engraved yellow gold, set with a lavender jade stone, Buccellati
Bracelet in engraved yellow and white gold, set with diamonds and turquoise, Buccellati
“Daisy & Diamonds� cuff in engraved silver and silver gilted in gold, set with diamonds, Buccellati
Lace Dentelles Sophie Hallette. Belt photographer’s own.
Articulated bracelet in white gold and white diamonds, “Prato Fiorito� Collection, Pasquale Bruni fine jewelry. Wooden bracelet, Arvydas Skukas.
Lace Dentelles Sophie Hallette
High Jewellery ring “Luxuriante�, diamonds, white gold, Mellerio Dits Meller
Articulated necklace in white gold and white diamonds, “Rosace� Collection, Poiray Fine jewelry. Ceramic flower Territori.
198
Brocade coat and dress Valentino. Boots Diego Dolcini. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent 5 couleurs. Powder and Lipstick Mac. Blush Lanc么me.
199
VALENTINO
Medieval Fantasy Photography, Styling, Hair Nathalie Malric. Make-up Joséphine Bouchereau. Model Fuoguli Dtyyft.
“Swift as a deer. Quiet as a shadow. Fear cuts deeper than swords. Quick as a snake. Calm as still water” George R.R. Martin, A Game of Thrones
Detail of Paradaiza Necklace, White Gold, Star Sapphires, Diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels. Anemones L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
201
For Valentino’s Fall 2013 collection, Italian designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli drew inspiration from 17th Century Flemish artist Vermeer, who in turn drew his inspiration from the Italian Baroque era. Master of chiaroscuro, Vermeer came from the small town of Delft, known for breweries, ceramics and tapestries. After poring over portraits of “calm and serene of women” by Flemish artists (from Vermeer to Van Eyck), the designers endeavoured to capture the same spirit of sensual strictness, Piccioli explained, “something very spiritual and poetic.” They did so extracting a sense of purity and colour, with blocks of rich colours such as ruby, lapis and cobalt, contrasting black and pure white. Striking white-and-blue prints inspired by Delft ceramics were embroidered and delicately traced with beads. Similarly, Delft tapestries inspired rich brocades woven in autumnal tones, embroideries and beaded lace. Chiuri and Piccioli’s ‘spiritual aspirations’ were apparent in the simplicity of the Calvinistic silhouettes, which exuded an austere grace. A square cropped portrait neckline added to the sense of religious purity that was nevertheless elegantly sensual. Inspired by Van Eyck, whose work was known for its diaphanous grace, gauze was added to separate neckbands from the bodices of dresses, such as the long red gown that resembled a cardinal’s robe. Hooded cloaks and capes were partly monastic and partly ‘Red Riding Hood’, fashioned in beautiful prints that kept the look alluringly fresh, feminine and romantic. With their ‘Magical realism’ collection, Chiuri and Piccioli told their fairytale story through dresses and coats. We recount their story in ‘Medieval Fantasy’ with our heroine Fuoguli Dtyyft, who finds herself in a dark and mysterious world inspired by Caravaggio and Rembrandt’s chiaroscuro paintings, filled with ‘treasures’, trophies and heirlooms by Chanel, Chaumet, Chopard, Piaget, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Clarice Chian
Oiseau de Paradis necklace, White Gold, Sapphire, Van Cleef & Arpels
Brocade coat and dress Valentino. Boots Diego Dolcini. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent 5 couleurs. Powder and Lipstick Mac. Blush Lanc么me.
Dress Valentino. High boots Christian Dior. Make-up: Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent 5 couleurs. Powder Mac. Blush Lanc么me.
Paradaiza Necklace, White Gold, Star Sapphires, Diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels. Anemones L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Paradaiza Necklace, White Gold, Star Sapphires, Diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels. Anemones L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
“Lion Vénitien” secret watch, “Sous le Signe du Lion” collection, white gold, diamonds, mother-of pearl, black satin bracelet. Chanel Fine Jewelry.
Dress Valentino. Necklace worn as a tiara Territori by Alessandra Bruni. Make-up : Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Kryolan. Eyelashes Shu Uemura. Powder and lipstick Mac “Ruby woo”. Blush numéro 10 Armani.
Dress Valentino. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Kryolan. Eyelashes Shu Uemura. Powder and lipstick Mac “Ruby woo”. Blush numéro 10 Armani.
“Camélia Brodé” necklace, white gold, diamonds, Japanese cultured pearls, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Rose L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Dress Valentino. Earrings in pink gold, rubies, garnets, red tourmalines, set with two drops of red tourmaline, Chaumet. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Kryolan. Eyelashes Shu Uemura. Powder and lipstick Mac “Ruby woo”. Blush numéro 10 Armani.
Necklace in pink gold, rubies, pink sapphires,rhodolite garnets, red and pink tourmalines, set with a drop of red tourmaline, Chaumet. Celosia Cristata L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Chaumet Necklace in pink gold, rubies, pink sapphires, rhodolite garnets, red and pink tourmalines, set with a drop of red tourmaline. Celosia Cristata L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Rose Profusion Necklace, white gold, diamonds, carved white chalcedony, Piaget. Beaded dress Valentino. Hydrangea L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Beaded dress Valentino. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Yves Saint Laurent 5 couleurs. Powder and lipstick Mac. Blush numĂŠro 2 Armani.
Rose Profusion Necklace, white gold, diamonds, carved white chalcedony, Piaget. Beaded dress Valentino.
Silk chiffon dress Valentino. Flower crown L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Eye Shadow Kryolan. Powder and lipstick Mac “Ruby woo”. Blush Lancôme.
Pair of white gold earrings from the Temptations collection set, briolette amethyst, peridot, diamonds, Chopard
“Lion Talisman” necklace, “Lion Talisman” earrings, “Sous le Signe du Lion” collection, yellow gold, diamonds, multicolored cultured pearls, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Flowers L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Tapestry coat and skirt Valentino. Leather chest piece Santal 36 by Miryam Lozano. Boucles d’oreilles “Lion Talisman”, or jaune, diamants, perles de culture multicolores. Collection “Sous le Signe du Lion”, Chanel Joaillerie. Make-up: Foundation Le Blanc De Chanel. Powder Mac. Eye Shadow Kryolan.
“Lion Talisman” necklace, “Sous le Signe du Lion” collection, yellow gold, diamonds, multicolored cultured pearls, Chanel Fine Jewelry. Flowers L’Arrosoir by Christine & Alain Bousquet.
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka Fragrance, Hermès. Vintage chair and boar photographer’s own.
CONTRIBUTORS
227
FOUNDER EDITOR IN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER Nathalie Malric FASHION AND LIFESTYLE WRITER EDITOR Clarice Chian ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Olivier Bousquet Director of communication Jeremy Derny SPECIAL THANKS Cendrine Rovini, Bertrand Secret, Inès Carratié, Laurent Bernillon www.peutetremagazine.com contact@peutetremagazine.com WISH LIST Akris www.akris.ch Alessandra Rich www.alessandrarich.com A-Morir www.a-morir.com Antipodium www.antipodium.com Baume & Mercier +33 (0)1 58 18 14 39 Beyond Retro www.beyondretro.com Boucheron +33 (0)1 42 44 42 4 Buccellati +33 (0)1 42 60 12 12 Camilla Woodman camillablase.blogspot.fr Cartier +33 (0)1 42 18 43 83 Carven (0)9 60 45 47 04 Chanel +33 (0)1 44 50 66 00 Chanel Joaillerie +33 (0)1 40 70 12 33 Charlie May www.charlie-may.co.uk Charlotte Olympia +44 (0) 207 499 0145 Chaumet +33 (0)1 44 77 24 00 Cherevichkiotvichki www.LN-CC.com Chopard +33 (0)1 55 35 20 10 De Beers +33 (0)1 42 82 49 43 De Gris www.de-gris.com Dentelles Sophie Hallette www.sophiehallette.com Diego Dolcini www.diegodolcini.it
Dior +33 (0)1 40 73 55 23 Dior Joaillerie +33 (0)1 40 73 73 73 Emporio Armani +33 (0)1 53 63 33 50 FedoraMi www.fedorami.com Fyodor Golan www.fyodorgolan.com Giorgio Armani +33 (0)1 42 61 55 09 Hermès +33 (0)1 40 17 47 17 Hudson www.hudsonshoes.com Jaeger-Lecoultre +33 (0)1 58 18 18 33 Jessica Broas www.jessicabroas.com J.JS Lee www.jsleelondon.com Kronkron www.kronkron.com Lanvin +33 (0)1 44 71 31 73 L’Arrosoir +33 (0)1 43 57 15 61 Lily Kamper www.lilykamper.com LIMI feu limifeu.com Mawi www.mawi.co.uk Mellerio Dits Meller +33 (0)1 42 41 61 57 53 Mikimoto +33 (0)1 42 60 33 55 Moo Piyasombatkul exclusively at Brown’s in London, Open Ceremony in the USA Nicholas Oakwell www.nicholasoakwellcouture.com
Onlychildlondon onlychildlondon.com Pasquale Bruni (0)9 81 86 07 20 Patrick Ian Hartley patrickianhartley.com Paul Smith +33 (0)1 42 84 15 30 Pebble www.pebblelondon.com Piaget +33 (0)1 58 18 14 15 Poiray www.poiray.com René Talmon L’Armée www.renetalmonlarmee.com Santal 36 www.santal36.com Shourouk Swash www.swash.co.uk Territori by Alessandra Bruni +33 (0)6 50 83 06 08 - www.territori.fr Tsumori Chisato +33 (0)1 42 78 18 88 Valentino +33 (0)1 47 23 64 61 Vacheron Constantin +33 (0)1 40 20 17 55 Van Cleef & Arpels +33 (0)1 53 45 35 50 Louis Vuitton +33 (0)9 77 40 40 77 Yohji Yamamoto +33 (0)1 42 21 42 93 Y’s +33 (0)1 40 20 00 71 Yuki Hagino www.yukihagino.com Zeynep Tosun www.zeyneptosun.com
MENTIONS LÉGALES
IMPRESSION
Paru décembre 2013
Peut-Être Magazine
Studio Pixart Srl Unipersonale
Dépôt légal décembre 2013
Nathalie Malric
Via Aquilonia, 4 interno 7
28,00 €
181-183 boulevard Voltaire
00177 ROMA RM
France Métropolitaine
75011 Paris
ITALIA
ISSN 2259-1427
Artwork by Johnny Romance for Peut-ĂŞtre
ISSN : 2259-1427 - N°8 - F : 28€ - Dec. 2013