2 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
FERNDALE
LYNDEN
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contents 4
Heavenly Heli-skiing Grab some friends and jump in the chopper. You’re going heli-skiing.
6
Why locomotives aren’t red He was doing good in the first Mt. Baker marathon until his train hit the bull.
9
2011 LBS Photos & Results of this year’s Legendary Banked Slalom.
11
Getting ready! Where do you go to get in shape for a new season of rock climbing? The wall at the Y, of course.
12
Beautiful rivers The rivers of western Washington offer some of the best fly fishing anywhere.
16
Grabbing the Larrabee line Follow Sam Lozier as he and a friend grabs the best line of the year.
20
American Alps Project Some pretty committed people are intent on expanding the national park.
27
Regional Map On the cover: Heli-skiing in the North Cascades backcountry, by Grant Gunderson
Ben Williamson by Rylan Schoen
This is where it all HAPPENS...
MOUNT BAKER
X
e perience Printed in Canada Vol XXV No. 2
Address: 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 Tel: 360/332-1777, Fax: 360/332-2777 Email: info@mountbakerexperience.com Web: www.mountbakerexperience.com Next edition: June Ads due: May 15 Publisher/Managing Editor/Layout Patrick Grubb Associate Publisher/Advertising Manager Louise Mugar Ad & Cover Design Charlie Hagan Staff Writers Tara Nelson, Jeremy Schwartz, Advertising Sales Molly Ernst, Janet McCall Office Manager Heidi Holmes
Welcome to the Mount Baker Experience, the quarterly recreation guide for and about the Mt. Baker area, published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned and operated, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings and Waterside in Blaine, Washington. Point Roberts Press is a member of the Washington Newspaper Publishers Association, chambers of commerce in Whatcom County and the Bellingham/Mt. Baker Convention and Visitors Bureau. The opinions expressed by contributors are their own and are offered for the general interest of readers. We welcome your letters; however, the opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the editor. For circulation and rate information, or to send your letters, please address to: Mount Baker Experience, 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230, fax them to 360/332-2777 or email info@mountbakerexperience.com.
find it online www.mountbakerexperience.com: Read the current issue of Mount Baker Experience here, and find all the archives as well. www.mtbaker.us: Find the latest information about the Mt. Baker Ski Area, including snow reports, events and classes. www.mtbakerchamber.org, www.glacierchamber.org: Discover the area’s businesses. www.weather.com: Get all the weather you need. www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/northwest/traffic/bordercams: Need to know about border delays? Find out here. www.facebook.com/MountBakerExperience
Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 3
Heli-skiing the ‘American Alps’
Story by Molly Baker
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s Lynsey Dyer, skiing the “American Alps.�
P
atiently waiting in Mazama, Washington, just north of the Bavarian village of Leavenworth and slightly west of Winthrop’s cowboy hats and hitching posts, we hear the faint thump-thump-thump of helicopter blades. The skies are blue and it hasn’t snowed in days. But photos of the nearby Liberty Bell and Cutthroat Peak line the walls of the heli-barn, as well as autographed photos of well-known skiers immersed in North Cascade blower, reminding
Photos by Grant Gunderson us why we are here: to find powder. Ski photographer Grant Gunderson, professional skiers Zack Giffin and Lynsey Dyer, and myself, are sitting in the North Cascades Heli-Skiing barn. And we’re about to embark on three days of heliaccessed skiing in eastern Washington’s so-called “American Alps.� During the winter, access to the grandeur of the mountains that are sprinkled along Washington’s Highway 20 in the North Cascades is extensive. Due to the plethora of avalanche paths along the thor-
oughfare, the road is closed for the winter, usually from November to April. But the terrain can still be skied, accessed either by walking, snowmobiling, or helicopter. We have chosen to fly, which brings us to our only option – North Cascades Heli. Skiers and visitors must cross the Cascade Range using southern highways, such as Steven’s Pass State Route 2, or come from the east, to arrive at North Cascade Heli’s 300,000-acre permit area in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Five hours from Seattle and
three and a half from Spokane, a quiet and secluded atmosphere infuses this Methow Valley location. Well, except for the sound of the chopper. After our safety debriefing, it is time to complete the heli-skiing walk of extravagance: skis held low at our sides, crouched beneath the omnipotent blades of the Astar B3, and eyes in search of powder. It feels as if we are filming for a Hollywood action blockbuster. The noise of the helicopter provides an impression of importance. Each of us makes a deliberate move into the helicopter and nods to one of the most illustrious pilots in the ski industry, Seamus O’Daimhin, our captain for the next few days. Landing on ridges as high as 9,000 feet with the potential for 4,000 vertical foot runs, we leisurely study the mountains and then ski the lines we pick. We have plenty of opportunities to embolden the experience with our own legs. Seven runs per day with three days in the heli, equals 21 runs, most of which are at a minimum 1,500 feet long. You do the math. Put simply, three days just equals tired legs. The runs vary from steep to mellow, but all are covered with a dusting of light and feathery Utah snow. Not the weighty, white stuff you typically find in the Cascades. Our first run, I watch Lynsey completing long, flawless turns, directly in front of a massive monolith of rock, her white spray illuminated by the sun. She quickly disappears toward the black speck parked at the bottom of the run. Grant, Zack, and I follow shortly behind. We successfully avoid any crevasses or tracks. The full three days we don’t find any clues that other skiers are enjoying the same powder turns. It feels like we have the entire mountain range on reserve. Our guide Ken Brooks, part owner of the operation, calmly directs us to the other zones we are allowed to enter. His tranquility is befuddling. Aren’t guides supposed to impose rules? Surprisingly, there isn’t much terrain that is off-lim-
its. Although snow hasn’t fallen in days, we find protected slopes on north facing aspects and claim some of our best days of the season. This is what ski dreams are made of – powder plundering and one zany, but highly competent helicopter pilot. Short, stout, and always wearing some perfect Irish guise, it’s as if a cut out from a Lucky Charms box is piloting the helicopter. The exhilaration of f lying with Seamus arguably trumps any run on your skis. There are certain sensations that human power just can’t produce. O’Daimhin started flying helicopters in 1968 and since then has accumulated over 14,000 hours of flight time throughout peaks in Alaska and Washington. O’Daimhin’s flying began during the Vietnam War, a reality that makes zooming through spires and dipping into mountainous valleys seem safe. For O’Daimhin, flying is straightforward, sans a salvo. Many professional skiers of the last two decades have sat quietly behind this leprechaun-of-a-pilot, dealing with the stresses and strains of g-forces pulling at their facial expressions, melting their smiles like wax into frowns. We are no exception. Standing in the midst of the North Cascades’ peaks we immediately forget the ride. Washington’s mountains remain the most glaciated range (not to mention offer a variety of volcanoes) in the lower 48. More remote and rugged ski missions exist here than in any other range of mountains in Colorado, Utah, Montana and Wyoming combined. We ski popular runs, such as Silver Star glacier, and find our own routes back to the heli. Zack Giffin, known at the Mt. Baker ski area for his wild ski antics, throws a 60foot backflip, Grant shoots a few ideal powder turns, and a personal revelation becomes lucid: heliskiing in my backyard could be as good as it gets. I don’t have to spend all my money on a trip to Alaska – or the Alps. In the lower 48, we’ve got the North Cascades.
Zack Giffin, left, taking it steep; above, checking the routes.
s Molly Baker going off the deep end.
“Snowing… 10 inches in 24 hours. Today’s powder was even better than anticipated…”
North Cascades Heli-ski Where: 15 miles northwest of Winthrop on State Route 20, just outside of Mazama. Driving times: Seattle (5 hrs); Spokane (3.5); Portland (8); Vancouver, B.C. (5). What: Three and one day heli-skiing programs within NCH’s 300,000-acre permit area in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. NCH guarantees seven runs per flying day. Additional runs can be purchased for $75 per person. When: Mid-January to mid-March. Cost: The three-day program is available Monday through Wednesday or Friday through Sunday for $2,499 with 21 runs guaranteed. The one-day option can be booked
for dates when there is space available, any day of the season for $899. Lodging: The Freestone Inn offers rooms, cabins, and private lodges. NCH skiers are offered a special rate, so let the office know when you book your heli-time. Contact: www.heli-ski.com/blog/ or 800/494-HELI Local Flavor: Check out The Mazama store for local cider, wines, and baked goodies. Open during the winter from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., it is a visitor’s best bet for regional treats. Contact 509/996-2855 for more information.
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s The aftermath of a 1911 meeting of a train and bull.
When men were men and bulls weren’t to be trifled with... By Jeremy Schwartz The first participants in what has become the Ski to Sea Race would have to run through the woods surrounding Mt. Baker up to its summit in little more than under shirts, shorts and leather boots. Then they would have to turn around, run down the mountain and make their way to Bellingham. This was racing for the men who ran the Mt. Baker Marathons from 1911 to 1913. The marathons were the ancestors to the modern Ski to Sea relay race that goes from Mt. Baker through the foothills by trail and
river down to Bellingham Bay. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original adventure races, documentary filmmaker Todd Warger is finishing up a docudrama called “The Mountain Runners,� set for release in the fall. Through interviews with modern endurance athletes, archival footage and period reenactments, Warger tells the story of the men who braved wind, snow and train wrecks in order to help put the small town of Bellingham on the map. Warger started work on the film in 2009, after spending about eight months researching a yet-to-be-
published book he’s writing on the same topic. He said each piece of the complex story behind the marathons just made him want to dig deeper and deeper. “It’s like a giant jigsaw puzzle,� Warger said. “What we knew before was just the tip of the iceberg.� No One with Any Sanity Would Do What They Did The idea of the marathons started with the Mt. Baker Club. The members wanted an event to increase tourism and publicity about the mountain. They thought Mt. Baker should share the success the Mt.
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Rainier area had enjoyed after the mountain was included in a national park. The marathon routes were born out of a friendly competition between the towns of Deming and Glacier over which town’s trail to the summit of Mt. Baker was the quickest. The Deming trail was 32 miles round trip with a gradual incline, while the Glacier trail was 28 miles round trip and steeper. The ride to the trailheads, either by train or car, took about an hour. The runners in the first race, about 15 in all, had the choice of which trail they would take to the
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summit of the mountain. Though one trail was less steep than the other, they each subjected the runners to about 10,500 feet of elevation gain in just more than 17 miles. “No one with any sanity would do what they did,� Warger said. The runners ran the majority of the race in near total darkness, with no more than candles placed along the trail during the first marathon in 1911 to light the way. The organizers of the 1912 and 1913 races thought enough of the runners to equip them with flashlights, Warger noted. The race had to begin at about one in the morning so the runners could get to the mountain before the sun rose, Warger said. As dangerous as running around on Baker’s glaciers was, doing so after the sun had softened them could have proved deadly. Joe Galbraith was the winner of the first race with a time of about 12 hours, including the drive from Bellingham to the trailhead, though Harvey Haggard was the first runner off the mountain with a time 40 minutes faster than Galbraith’s. While Haggard was enjoying a relaxing nude soak on the train back to Bellingham, the train smacked into a 1,500-pound bull and derailed. Haggard was shaken but uninjured. He got dressed and hopped on a
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s Paul Westerlund, in the 1913 homestretch.
passing horse-drawn buggy back to Bellingham. The meat from the bull was later enjoyed as part of the after-marathon barbecue. By the second year, the race had garnered national attention. The New York Times ran an article describing the runners as battling blizzards and death to run up a 10,000-foot mountain peak. Most New Yorkers at the time probably hadn’t even seen such a mountain, much less been on one, Warger said. With a little more than a day until the start of the 1912 marathon, the race’s judges, who had spent the night on the mountain, made their way down to Bellingham intent on telling the organizers the race could not happen because of the blizzard conditions on Mt. Baker, Warger explained. They convinced Galbraith to come down to Bellingham with them to make their case. Local pharmacy owner Henry Engberg was enraged. He was not convinced by the judges and was furious they would even talk about canceling the race. Almost 20,000 people had shown up for the event, including the governor. Engberg told the judges in no uncertain terms that they were to head back up the mountain and sit there a week if they had to until the runners came up. He also told the runners they had to run the race, whether they wanted to or not. “That set the tone for the last year,” Warger said. “It was no longer fun and games.” The 1913 race was the last Mt. Baker Marathon, until the Ski to Sea race started up in 1973. During the final race, runner Vic Galbraith slipped and fell into a crevasse after
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taking a shortcut only he knew down one of Baker’s glaciers. He was rescued six hours later, quite shaken but not much worse for wear. John Magnuson, father of Mount Baker Experience founder Al Magnuson, shared the 1913 victory with Finnish runner Paul Westerlund, who finished the race in 7 hours, 30 minutes. Magnuson was not informed that the 1913 race went only to the saddle of Mt. Baker, not the peak. He most likely would have won had he not taken the longer route, and was allowed to share the victory and the $800 prize purse with Westerlund, Warger said. The Human Link From the beginning of film production, Warger felt he needed to talk to modern day endurance athletes, such as 100-mile marathon runner and Washington native Krissy Moehl, to get a sense of what the mountain runners had to go through. If climbing Mt. Baker seems tough with proper gear, imagine doing so in little more than work out clothes, Warger said. There were no professional athletes in any of the three original marathons, Warger explained. The runners were loggers, miners, postmen and bedspring makers and competed in the race for fame and the prize money. “To the modern athletes these people are the pioneer gods of their sport,” Warger said. Warger said the most well known accounts of the races are similar because they are all pulled from the same newspaper article, which ran on a Saturday after the race. Warger went further. For example, he
looked up the incident report from Bellingham Bay Improvement Company, the company that owned the train that derailed the first year. From it, he was able to gather a large amount of details and full names. While he’s confident this is America’s first big endurance race, Warger said his film might bring stories of other little known races out of the woodwork. Just as few people knew about the Mt. Baker marathons, there could be others just waiting to be discovered. For more information on “The Mountain Runners,” visit www.themountainrunners.com. For more information on the modern Ski to race, visit www.skitosea.com.
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The Contributors One of the ski industry’s most talented photographers, Grant has shot for every major snow sports and outdoor publication world s Grant Gunderson wide, including: ESPN, Outside, Powder, Freeskier, Skier, Skiing and Ski. In addition
to his editorial work, Grant supplies many of the world’s top brands with images that set the bar for a new level of creativity that define the culture of action sports. He skis close to 200 days a year and makes a high-quality (and highoctane) homebrewed ale. He currently serves as The Ski Journal photo editor while working with high-end commercial and editorial clients. Go to www.grantgunderson.com or email grant@theskijournal.com
Writer and professional skier Molly Baker shreds the snowy wonderlands in the Pacific Northwest and skis for some of the industry’s best s Molly Baker action photographers. She also contributes to ESPN Freeskiing, The Ski Journal, Women's Adventure, and Skiing Magazine. Her blog is http://mollykbaker.wordpress.com/
Jay is an internationally published and awardwinning photographer and writer. His clients have included Fortune 500 coms Jay Goodrich panies, trade publications, national and international magazines and books. To view more of his work visit him on the web at www.jaygoodrich.com, jaygoodrichblog.com, jaygoodrich-stock.com.
Ryan Duclos has been a professional photographer since 1998. Picking up the camera came naturally and soon he learned s Ryan Duclos why. His ancestors were the largest-known family of photographers in the world, from 1839 to 1936, thus he is honored to be living the dream that they once had, of owning a photography studio. When he isn’t behind the lens of a camera, Ryan can be found shredding the slopes at Mt. Baker, BBQing in the backyard with friends and or enjoying a beautiful sunset on Puget Sound. I was born 27 years ago in El Paso, raised in Chicago, and I’ve been living in Washington for the last 10 years, Glacier for five s Grady McCombs years. I’ve always felt a pull to the mountains and I’ve been snowboarding, mountain biking and kayaking in the foothills for the last eight years. I am a certified wild mushroom forager. I attended the College of Forestry at UW, and received a degree in Environmental Science and Resource Management. I work as a river raft guide and photographer for Wild and Scenic River Tours in the summers; I own a graphic/web design company called Dead Horse Design, and co-own the Mt. Baker Mushroom Farm. I am working to foster a more sustainable culture.
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8 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
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Tyler lives for the outdoors. He's an avid climber, bicyclist, snowboarder and splitboarder. He's made a s Tyler Mitchell notch for himself as a wedding photographer but loves taking pictures of his friends in the backcountry on a powder day. Check out some of his work at TMitchellPhoto.com. You can find Rylan Schoen most powder days shooting at Mt Baker and in the surrounding backcountry, in between s Rylan Schoen getting his own face shots of course! His passion for photography does not limit him to the mountain-side though; Rylan is available to hire for anything from commercial shoots to family portraits and everything in between. You can reach Rylan through his business www.opticflows.com or call 360/704.0013
Legendary Banked Slalom February 11-13, 2011 Photos by Tyler Mitchell
s Men’s pro winner Harry Kearney.
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s Women’s pro second place finisher, Maria Debari from Glacier.
2011 Legendary Banked Slalom Winners Category Pro Men Pro Women Pro Masters Older Amateurs Women Amateurs Masters Women Masters Mid Masters Grand Masters Super Masters Next Generation Juniors Younger Amateurs
Name Harry Kearney Maelle Ricker Mark Fawcett Nate Kewin Kari Hoss Ben Wordsworth Tanya Simonson Eric Warble Mike Hattrup Bob Satushek Cody Warble Gus Warbington Jerry Mark
Best Time 1:28.07 1:31.31 1:28.52 1:32.17 1:38.74 1:32.08 1:36.49 1:34.81 1:48.02 1:54.69 1:40.59 1:34.83 1:32.47
Hometown Norwood, Colorado Squamish, BC Nelson, BC Vancouver, BC Montgomery, Vermont South Melbourne, AUST Bozeman, Montana Edwards, Colorado Kent, Washington Deming, Washington Edwards, Colorado Bend, Oregon Telluride , Colorado
Age 17 32 39 26 24 34 31 40 51 63 11 15 18
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Just Because You Are In The Wilderness Doesn’t Mean that you Have to Rough It! Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 9
s Lynsey Dyer skiing the North Cascades backcountry. Photo by Grant Gunderson
Getting ready for climbing By Sam Lozier For those in Whatcom County who live to rock climb, the winter months can be very frustrating. The North Cascades, Southern Coast Range, and Olympics are all within a day’s drive, but with a heavy coat of snow covering them, outdoor rock climbing is, for the most part, out of the question. Unlike Leavenworth and other climbing towns on the east side, Bellingham’s wet weather and dearth of “in-town” crags, or climbing areas, can make it tough for experienced climbers to stay sharp and for beginners to get started. Enter the Bellingham YMCA. The Bellingham Y offers a 66foot indoor climbing wall that is open to the public. The wall has routes that challenge all abilities and, notably, the YMCA offers several programs designed to get first time climbers launched. Right in downtown Bellingham, children and adults can get their start in the vertical world on a wall that can test them for years. In the space of an hour at the YMCA, I met Aiden Fitzstrawn, and Allie Downing. Aiden is twelve years old and loves to climb at the Y, he even volunteers to belay (handle the rope) for beginning climbers and children during family climb time. Asked why he volunteers at the YMCA, he explained that he wanted to help give back to the place where he learned and share his enthusiasm for the sport. The handful of younger children jockeying to be next up for a climb on Aiden’s rope certainly seemed to appreciate his presence and enthusiasm. Allie, who was visiting the Bellingham YMCA for the first time, has a different background. Married to a climbing guide and used to enduring months of travel and poverty just to spend time on rock, she rep-
resents the “hardcore” end of the spectrum. With plenty of experience on actual rock, Allie already knows that she loves to climb. She was at the YMCA for a workout and challenge. The fact that she could find that challenge only feet from where beginners were getting their first taste of the addictive improbability of vertical motion is why indoor climbing has been, and will continue to be, popular. For those like 12-year-old Aiden, who cannot yet drive, Bellingham can be a frustrating town to live in for an outdoor climber. Larrabee State park offers beachside bouldering (climbing without a rope on challenging routes, close to the ground), and a handful of roped climbs on crumbly Chuckanut sandstone, but the options in Larrabee state park are rather limited. Mt. Erie, an hour to the south,
and Squamish, two hours to the north, both offer a much wider variety of great climbs. As spring progresses into summer, some more advanced climbers like Allie will follow the receding snowline up the mountains onto longer, more remote climbs. The strength and endurance that was developed indoors during the winter months helps to provide some of the margin of safety that experienced climbers need to scale larger mountains, while knowledge of ropes, mountain hazards, and years of experience provide the rest. For more information, as well as a schedule of operating hours, contact the YMCA at 360/733-8630 or www.whatcomymca.org. For instruction and guiding in the outdoors, contact the American Alpine Institute at www.aai.cc.
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s Top left, Allie climbing the wall; above, the view from the top.
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Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 11
Capturing Beauty: Fly-fishing in the Mt. Baker Foothills By Grady McComb
F
ly fishermen here in the Pacific Northwest have a reverence for fish that echoes far back in time. The Northwest’s rivers have long been arteries for the ecosystem, nutrients pumped upstream by returning salmon as they make their way to spawning grounds.
This cyclical event is a crucial part of the ecosystem, providing nutrients to literally every step of the food chain. Historically, coastal Native Americans received (in many cases still receive) the vast majority of their protein from fish, making it a focal point of their culture and activities.
At the turn of the 19th century, when the area was still relatively unaffected by Western settlers, salmon migrated into and out of our rivers in vast numbers. Natives needed only to stick a net out over a rapid at spawning time and salmon would literally jump into their nets. Reverence for this abundance is
commonplace in coastal Native American culture; unfortunately, this reverence today is for salmon populations that are increasingly dwindling. As settlers pushed westward and settled in the region, the salmon and other fish stocks were decimated by careless development.
Dams and de-forestation destroyed habitat, while ‘improved’ fishing techniques over-harvested populations in the rivers, lakes and ocean. While estimates vary, it is undeniable there has been an exponential decrease in salmon in the past century which inevitably has had adverse effects on the entire ecosys-
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tem. As people gain awareness of our ecosystem’s fragility, they also gain an appreciation of nature itself. In some ways at least, Western culture might finally be catching up with the Native Americans who honor the fish as an integral part of their culture as well as a resource and commodity. Similarly, fly fishermen also honor the beauty and utility of the salmon as they seek to become part of the ecosystem that sustains us all. Like most outdoor sports, flyfishing is subject to seasons. Fishing seasons are not only set by the state department of fish and wildlife, they are also determined by the timing of runs of salmon returning to rivers, bug hatches, and other natural events. Every sportsman must adapt to their season, but the fly fisherman takes this concept to the extreme. Every aspect of the sport is a response to nature. The timing is the first step: knowing when runs will take place and understanding what weather the fish like to move in. Next, the fly fisherman has to know where the fish will be. This takes an understanding of the dynamics of the river, lake or tides and the behavior of the targeted fish. Even the design of the fly the fly fisherman uses, is critical: sometimes mimicking local bug life, sometimes creating an attractive pattern that a fish will attack out of aggression. Lastly, the technique of the fly fisherman must be adapted to the fish he is trying to catch and the environment. Local fly fishing guide Ed Megill says that although f ly fishing requires much skill and knowledge, that only builds the feeling of joy and satisfaction when you finally do catch a fish. Ed owns the fly fishing and river guiding service, Cascades Flyfishing Expeditions, based in Bellingham. On the river year-round, Ed says his goal is to have his clients share the experience and appreciation of nature that he has come to love.
“It’s constantly a game of following the fish,” Ed says, adding that he travels all over the state following bug hatches and salmon runs. On the east side of the Cascade Mountains, where there are larger insect populations, Ed’s crew will head over to the Yakima River in the spring to fish the ‘Mother’s day hatch’ of caddis flies. In the fall they fish summer steelhead on the Grande Ronde, a tributary of the Snake River. Ed says that Cascades Flyfishing has something to offer any level of fly fisherman. They have classes on how to tie flies, casting techniques, and boat rowing and rigging. In addition, they offer full-guided service on day and multi-day fishing trips with all necessary gear. Not just limited to rivers, Cascades Flyfishing offers fly-fishing from lakes and at sea for rainbow trout and sea-run Cutthroat trout. Of the Nooksack River, whose headwater is at the bases of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan, Ed says, “She doesn’t give up her fish easily.” He explains that with a relatively low insect population, fishing the Nooksack is exceptionally reliant on returning salmon populations. “The Nooksack doesn’t hold a lot of resident fish; however, with all five species of salmon returning to the river it is diverse, challenging and rewarding. Even on a day where you don’t catch any fish you’ll still have a great time on the river, guaranteed.” If you’re interested in learning the fundamentals of fly-fishing or in a guided fly-fishing trip, Cascades Flyfishing Expeditions offers fly-fishing classes and other river experiences such as Bald Eagle viewing year round. They travel to any fishing spot in the state and regularly guide on the Nooksack, Skagit, Sauk, Yakima, and Grande Ronde rivers. You can reach them by visiting their website at www.cascadesfly.com or by phone 360/510-0483.
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Mount Baker Experience • Winter 2011 13
s Owen Dudley gets big air in the Mt. Baker backcountry. Photo by Jay Goodrich.
t Zack Giffin going for it in the North Cascades backcountry. Photo by Grant Gunderson.
s Ben Williamson. Photo by Rylan Schoen.
t Doing the Tindy Grab on Mt. Herman. Photo by Tyler Mitchell.
Mount Baker Experience • Winter 2011 15
Skiing the Larrabee line By Sam Lozier
s As high as they can go on Mt. Larrabee.
t The rollover above the chute. Skinning to the top. T
t Mt. Larrabee with arrow showing chute the author skied down.
s Winchester hut with Mt. Larrabee in the background.
W
ith three days off and two days of clear weather in the forecast meant that Allen Taylor, my longtime ski partner, and I could attempt to ski Mt. Larrabee, near Twin Lakes. Since we don’t own a snowmobile, we spent most of a day hiking and skinning the eight miles and 4500 vertical feet from State Route 542 up the Twin Lakes Road to the Winchester hut. As the afternoon light began to soften, we reached the summit of Winchester where, as the ridge fell away, we finally caught a view of Larrabee. I’d wanted to ski one of the lines on the south face of Larrabee since
I first laid eyes on the mountain last June. It has three beautiful chutes on the south face that drop directly from the summit to the bowl at the bottom of the face and all look very steep from across the valley. From the Winchester hut, the chute furthest to the right looked to be the easiest descent as it didn’t have a large ice encrusted cliff in the middle of it like the other two did. It was a cold night in the summer-weight sleeping bag I’d brought with me to the hut. So finally, after hours of rolling around uncomfortably trying to sleep, I was ready to get moving the moment the first rays of light started to peek through
16 Mount Baker Experience • Winter 2011
the cracks in the hut. As Allen and I hiked under the base of the chute we intended to ski on our way to the summit, we both looked at it and decided that if we could get to it, we could ski it. There was clearly an icy choke high in the gully, but based on the way the chute was protected from the wind and exposed to the strong southern sun, we anticipated that it would be soft enough to edge. Climbing Larrabee posed fewer challenges than I expected; however, it still required several hours of hiking and skinning over steep snow. Around noon, we could climb no higher. To the north, Larrabee fell away to the glacier that divides
Larrabee from American Border Peak. After discussing our options, Allen and I decided that we were as ready as we would ever be: our skis had well tuned edges, we were feeling strong and if it all went wrong, we could always switch back to crampons at the top of the chute, hike back to the summit, and retreat down the southwest face, our ascent route. Our first clear view of the chute from the top revealed that, barring a major surprise in the icy crux, the rest of the chute would be totally straightforward; steep, but not complicated. Not one to intentionally take a fall down a giant chute, I
sideslipped closer and closer to the crux, simultaneously probing into the snow with my poles in search of firm ice under the soft snow. Directly above it, I could see that the choke consisted of about 10 feet of very steep rime ice, immediately followed by the softer looking, lower-angled, main body of the chute. Taking a deep breath, I jumped and turned my skis 90 degrees into the fall line, sailed over the icy section and stopped hard as I reached the soft snow below. I was elated, this beautiful line was really going to happen.
Photo ©2009 123RF Limited. All Rights Reserved.
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Watchers of the night sky By Jeremy Schwartz
H
umans have always been fascinated with the night sky. Whether it was to determine the proper time to plant crops, to wonder about the possibility of life beyond our orb or the current scientific drive to determine the origins of the universe, people just can’t seem to help craning their necks upward when the evening sky is clear. Now, as anyone who lives in the Pacific Northwest can attest, the skies often do not cooperate with what would be called good stargazing weather. But for a small club of local celestial observers, braving cold nights and stubbornly outlasting cloudy evening skies are all part of their love affair with the stars. The Whatcom Association of Celestial Observers (WACO) holds monthly star-gazing parties (weather dependent) all across the county. Bill Bunker, WACO’s current president, said any clear, moonless night is good for stargazing, but the group gets their best observing in, once Artist’s Point opens back up in July. WACO also hosts what Bunker calls “moon parties” every month on the night of the full moon at Boulevard Park in Bellingham. On these nights, club members will set up telescopes and look at the Earth’s celestial companion. Anyone passing by is invited to take a gander, too, and Bunker said this is the most common way WACO interacts with the general public. “Most people have not looked at the moon through a telescope, and they are not disappointed [once they do],” Bunker said. “The average adult is just as wowed at looking at the moon as a 10-year-old.” Even without the aide of a telescope, Bunker said the average person can still learn a great deal from simply looking at the clear night
sky. The lack of a telescope or even a good pair of binoculars should not stop any budding amateur astronomers from learning more about the cosmos through Internet resources, he said. “There’s a bunch of fascinating stuff to learn about the sky just by looking at it with your eyeballs,” Bunker said. For anyone wanting to take the next step and purchase their first telescope, Bunker’s first piece of advice is do research before spending any amount of money. The Internet and groups like WACO are treasure troves of information on which telescopes to seek out and which ones to avoid. Bunker cautioned against what he calls “department store” telescopes; those most often found in toy or department stores that have colorful photos of planets and galaxies on the box. Bunker explained these telescopes often don’t have enough power to see much more than the moon in great detail and can discourage younger amateur stargazers by not being able to provide the advertised views of distance celestial objects. Telescope prices vary widely, and there are models for just about any level of amateur astronomer. “You can get a really usable telescope for around $500, but there’s no limit to how much you can
spend,” Bunker said. Take Bunker’s backyard set-up for example. Over the last 10 years or so, he has spent about $10,000 on a top-of-the-line telescope, motorized mounts, and computer software that allow him to point his telescope at pretty much any celestial object with just a few keystrokes. Bunker’s hardware also allows him to take utterly breathtaking photos of the most beautiful celestial objects that hang in the night sky. “It never ceases to amaze me the beauty of these objects,” Bunker said. The itch to improve his astrophotography skills is what keeps Bunker coming back to the specially built shed with removable roof in his backyard, night after night. He often compares his work to other astrophotographers on the Internet and tries to improve his technique. Sometimes this requires more advanced equipment; sometimes it just requires more time behind the eyepiece. When asked about the scientific value of his hobby, Bunker said he takes photos for the pure enjoyment of photography rather then to accumulate any real scientific data. “I’m doing what’s called ‘pretty pictures’ by scientists,” he laughed. “If I lived some place where I could count on the skies, I might be doing
s Top, the Bay of Rainbows. Above, the Andromeda Galaxy.
18 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
some science but not here [in Washington].” Bunker’s interest in astronomy started long before he moved to Washington in 1971. As a boy growing up in Missouri, he said his father would take him outside to watch the August meteor showers. Since then, Bunker has traveled to Australia and Aruba with his wife to view solar eclipses. 2004 brought him to Egypt where he witnessed Venus transiting the sun, an event that last happened in 1882. “No one alive [now] had seen that before,” Bunker said. Bunker bought his first real telescope, a model he could easily travel with, about 20 years ago. The past two decades have seen Bunker purchase ever-advancing equipment,
but always with the same desire in mind: getting just a little bit closer to the cosmos from whence everything came. “I think it’s a shame that most people don’t know how tiny our presence is in the universe,” Bunker said. “Our brain is not set up to comprehend the vast.” Through WACO, Bunker hopes to share even the slimmest shards of the joy he finds in stargazing with anyone who ever finds themselves with neck craned up, looking at the night sky. For more information on WACO and to view their calender of stargazing events, visit www.whatcomastronomy.org.
s The Veil Nebula. All photos by Bill Bunker.
s Venus transits the sun.
2011 WINTER/SPRING EVENTS Saturday February 26
Monday, March 28
Snow Safety Awareness/ Intro to Transceiver Use: Mt. Baker Ski Area, 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. mtbaker.us .
First Gear Class: At Birchwood Elementary, Bellingham. Get the tips and secrets that make bicycling safe, comfortable and fun for getting around town. 6 p.m. Pre-register. 360-671- BIKE or everybodybike.com
Thursday, March 10 Kulshan Cycles Ladies Night: Ladies (only) are invited to see current women’s cycling products and receive information about local cycling opportunities for women. Prizes and refreshments. Free. 360-733-6440. kulshancycles.com.
Saturday, April 2 Fanatik Bike Company Grand Opening: 2-day celebration. 1812 N. State St. Bellingham 360-756-0504, fanatikbike.com
Monday & Tuesday, April 25 and 26 First Gear Bike Class Parts 1 & 2: 6 p.m. at Carl Cozier Elementary, Bellingham. Get the tips and secrets that make bicycling safe, comfortable and fun for getting around town. Day 2: learn how to handle traffic and intersection situations, basic bike mechanics info and practice riding from the class site to a local shop on residential streets. Pre-register. 360- 671-BIKE, everybodybike.com
Saturday, April 30 Snowrider Project & Baker Bus Fundraiser: The Baker Bus is looking toward purchasing a full-sized school bus which will be converted to biodiesel. The Snowrider Project is looking toward expanding stewardship and education activities to provide Leave No Trace clinics and mountain clean-ups at Heather Meadows, the Nooksack River and during Ski to Sea. Boundary Bay Brewery, 10 p.m. to close. www.surfrider.org
Saturday, March 12 Mt. Baker Club: Moderate hike in the Chuckanuts to Pine and Cedar lakes. 8 to 9 mile loop. Meet at 8:30 a.m. Info: Fred at 360/303-0727.mountbakerclub.org
Saturday, March 19 Movin’ & Shakin’: Historic Mega-Landslides of the North Fork. 10 a.m. Learn from a geologist. Minimal walking. Free for WLT members. 360-650- 9470, whatcomlandtrust.org Chuckanut Ridge 50k: A scenic, very hilly and often muddy trail run. Start/finish at Fairhaven Park. chuckanut50k.com Wings Over Water Birding Festival: 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. A free event celebrating migratory birds in the Blaine/Birch Bay area. 360-332- 4544. blainechamber.com/wow
Saturday & Sunday, March 12 and 13 Seattle Bicycle Expo: Smith Cove Cruise Terminal. cascade.org
Friday-Sunday, April 15-24
Great NW Recreational Gear & Bike Swap: 10 a.m. Whatcom Events/Ski to Sea and The Bike Shop team up for a combined swap at the Sportsplex in Bellingham. Drop off equipment for sale Friday evening or pre10am Saturday. The Bike Shop is a non-profit project that uses the bicycle to engage youth from low-income homes in healthy physical and social activity 360-758-2035, thebikeshop1.org, skitosea.com
Saturday, May 7
Friday, May 20
Skagit Spring Classic: Supported rides through Skagit and southern Whatcom counties. 25, 40, 62, and 100 mile routes. skagitspringclassic.org
Bike to Work & School Day: 50+ Celebration Stations welcome cyclists and walkers with prizes and goodies for the commute. mtbakerbikeclub.org, everybodybike.com
Haggen to Haggen 5k: 8am/8:30 a.m. Walk and run start at Sehome Haggen and finish at Meridian Haggen. gbrc.net
Saturday, May 21
Saturday, May 14 Pedal with Your Politician: An easy town route, with stops highlighting transportation improvements and noting where challenges remain for making walking and bicycling safe. everybodybike.com The Human Race: A fundraising 5k walk, or a timed 5k/10k run at Zuanich Park, Bellingham. 10 a.m. Register and gather pledges for the nonprofit of your choice. 360-7343055, whatcomvolunteer.org
Harvey Haggard Hoedown: Enjoy music, dancing, and BBQ at this festival in honor of a local legend. 4 – 9 p.m. Across from Paradise Market, Mt. Baker Hwy. Kendall. 360-599-1518, mtbakerchamber.org
Sunday, May 29 Ski to Sea: A multi-sport relay for recreational to elite athletes, from the slopes of Mount Baker to the shores of Bellingham Bay. Celebrating 100 years. Skitosea.com
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Telus World Ski & Snowboard Festival: Whistler, BC. 10 days of arts, sports, and music. wssf.com
Saturday, April 16 Tulip Pedal: La Conner. Ride 20 miles around the tulip fields between Mount Vernon and La Conner or ride 40 or 60 miles from La Conner Middle School. 30th anniversary of this event, Skagit Medic One’s premier fundraiser. skagitems.com
Sunday, April 17 Vancouver Sun Run 10k: Downtown Vancouver, B.C. vancouversun.com/sunrun
Saturday, April 23 An Evening With Jim Whittaker: 6 – 8:30 p.m. First American to climb Mt. Everest. Fundraiser for Pacific Northwest Trail Association. Best Western Cottontree Inn, Mount Vernon. Tickets are $50 online at PNT.org or 877/854-9415.
Saturday, March 26 Berthusen Park Trail Run: Lynden, 10am. Free, informal run hosted by Fairhaven Runners & Walkers, explore meandering forested trails in the middle of farm country for 30-40 minutes. Meet by the playground. fairhavenrunners.com Incline Trail Down Blanchard Mountain: Discover the old townsite, hear stories and the near disaster. From 5 to 8 miles, depending on weather. Bring lunch. Carpool fee $2. Mt. Baker Club, call Marjan for details, 3323195. Mountbakerclub.org Birch Bay Road Race: 8:30 a.m. 5k walk, 15 & 30k runs and walk. All races start and finish at the Waterslides on Birch Bay-Lynden Road. Info: www.birchbayroadrace.com. Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 19
The American Alps Project
By Tara Nelson
W
hen the Mount Baker Club first formed a century ago, the original intent was to generate enough publicity from the area’s beauty and natural resources to have the Mt. Baker wilderness area designated as a national park. Now, on the cusp of their 100th anniversary, club members said they want to try once more. The club was one of the first groups to propose the federal designation during the early 1900s, an idea they pushed into the 1960s, when the North Cascades National Park was created. Many of northwest Washington’s wilderness areas, however, were left out. “The area was heavily exploited for gold, which during the 1900s, was on everyone’s mind at the time,” said the club’s former president Marjan Eicher. “There were economic and political interests that didn’t want it as a national park.” Now, with some of the original proponents reaching their 80s and
90s, Eicher said the club wants to give it one last shot. And this time, they have partnered with the North Cascades Conservation Council, a Seattle-based environmental group created to protect the North Cascades, through their American Alps Project. NCCC executive director Jim Davis said when the North Cascades National Park was created in 1967, many scenic landscapes, such as those around Liberty Bell, Rainy Pass, Snowy Lakes, Cutthroat Pass, and the Cascade River were excluded from the park. The designation also excluded many lowland wildlife habitats and pristine rivers and streams from park boundaries. “The designation of North Cascades as a national park was a great thing but even at the time, conservation groups were concerned that some of the most important parts had been left out – particularly lowelevation valleys, which are important habitat to a lot of species,” Davis said. “We decided to go back in and see if we could complete the Mount Baker Club’s original vision for the North Cascades National Park.”
Davis said the group’s strategy to partner with other conservation and recreational groups, and the increased recreational access outlined in their proposal will help them gain enough popular support to push a bill through Congress. “We’ve been talking to conservation, government and recreation groups and we’ve been getting lots of good feedback because we’re also interested in expanding recreational opportunities for families and youth,” he said. “That means more campgrounds, visitor centers and front country trails where you don’t have to walk up a mountain to get into the forest, as well as interpretive sites where people can learn more about the area.” Davis said they hope to add about 300,000 acres to the 584,000-acre park. It would add about 245,000 acres of U.S. Forest Service land and 57,700 acres of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area into the park. And because the land is already federally-owned, Davis said it’s a simple matter of redesignation – no private land acquisition or purchasing needed.
It would, however, add needed protection to streams old-growth forests and sub-alpine lakes – areas that were left out of the original vision for the park because of political compromises at the time, he said. Highway 20 in Skagit County, which currently bisects the park, would become part of the park and new federal funding could build entrances, visitor centers, and ecotourism viewpoints. The group has contracted independent economic consultant Tom Power, a former chair of the economics department at University of Minnesota, who estimates the proposal could generate as many as 1,000 new jobs over a slow buildup period of 20 years. That idea has largely been praised by what Davis calls “gateway” communities that are situated on the park’s boundaries. The proposal is also important for biodiversity protection, he said, as the current park boundaries are too small for wide-ranging species. It would also protect those areas against extractive industries such as mining that are having an “aggres-
sive comeback.” Davis said there are about 500 small hydro-electric dam projects slated for western Washington in the coming years. Davis said the process could take several years but NCCC has enjoyed prior success getting lawmakers to designate the Glacier Peak Wilderness area, and the Pasayten Wilderness area in eastern Washington. In the meantime, they are working at developing a more definitive proposal. “It could take several years,” he said. “But ideally we’ll start seeing some movement on it within six to nine months. It took almost 10 years to create the first park but we’re hopeful we can move more quickly. It just depends on how much support we can get from the public and how much that translates into support from Congressional representatives.” For more information about the North Cascades Conservation Council’s American Alps Project, visit www.americanalps.org.
Mt. Baker Club: One Hundred Years of Service Since 1911, Mt. Baker Club members have engaged regularly in outdoor activities but have also been responsible for building and maintaining property in the Mt. Baker area, including cabins at Mazama Park, Glacier and the Kulshan Cabin below Heliotrope Ridge on the Glacier trail which they rebuilt in 1949, and maintained it under joint ownership between the club and the Associated Students of Western Washington College of Education (now Western Washington University). They also single-handedly saved the Winchester Mountain Lookout in the early 1980s. The building is located at 6,400 feet on Winchester Moun-
tain near the Twin Lakes and is one of 58 fire lookouts in Washington state, according to the National Historic Lookout Register. The lookout provides a glorious panoramic view of the Northern Picket range, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan, as well as protection from the elements – all at no charge to overnight visitors. Originally built in 1935 and staffed until 1966, it was slated for demolition until the Mt. Baker Hiking Club, led by Gary Haufle, worked out a deal with the U.S. Forest Service in 1982 to restore the building. The USFS provided materials and the club – later known as the Mt. Baker Club, to reflect the group’s ever-expansive outdoor activ-
20 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
ities – provided the labor. Since then, the club has continued to maintain the lookout on a budget of about $200 a year, stocking it with dishes, propane, pots and pans, a stove, a desk, chairs, a bed and maps. The Mt. Baker Club organizes regular group excursions for hiking, biking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, canoeing, and kayaking, as well as monthly social activities in the Mount Baker area. For more information about the club, visit www.mountbakerclub.org or call 360/3921015. s Razor Crest trail work.
In Alaska Photos by Ryan Duclos In the summer of 2010, local photographer Ryan Duclos was fortunate enough to be invited by friends to travel to Denali National Park. Here are some of his images from that experience.
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TTHESE PUBLICA PUBLICATIONS TIONS ARE A PROUDL PROUDLY Y CREA CREATED TED D AND BROUGHT TTO OY YOU O OU B BY Y POINT ROBER ROBERTS TS S PRESS, INC. -!2).% $2)6% ",!).% 7! s 4%, s %-!), sales@mountbakerexperience.com -!2).% $2)6% ",! !).% 7 7! ! s 4%, s %-!), sales@mountbak erexperience.com Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 21
Taking it local By Tara Nelson
W
es Jagon wanted to wear Mount Baker’s eco-centric, community minded culture with pride. So he started his own clothing line. Jagon, a recent graduate of Western Washington University, said he wanted to provide a unique cloth-
ing line representative of Whatcom County’s progressive and environmentally focused culture. Using simple pen and paper techniques, Jagon gives a shout out to local parks, places and icons most Northwesterners will find familiar. The designs are influenced by the environment and experiences of Bellingham and the surrounding area. “Mount Baker and the sur-
rounding area is an amazing place,� he said. “Not only are we a family and – for that matter, animal – friendly culture, we are a global model of sustainability. We understand the importance of community whether it’s eating at a local restaurant or buying hand knitted coffee cup insulators – with cats on them.� One t-shirt, for example, features a simple handwritten list of local parks and places such as Whatcom Falls Park and Mt. Baker as well as local businesses such as The Pickford Cinema and Black Drop cof-
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feehouse in Bellingham. “Finding such relations to each design gives us pride to know the choice is ultimately yours whether to wear the gear and rock the line both locally and globally,� he said. “We pride ourselves by not catering to a specific demographic, more so the line appeals to a wide range of styles; we just put our designs out there to those who enjoy fashion and who can find any relation to the design.� Jagon said several of his items are made of organic cotton from American Apparel and Alternative Apparel and he is working toward a 100 percent organic line while maintaining a price that is affordable for young people. “We try to bridge the gap and reach a broader demographic,� he said. “We are marketing to children as young as 14 and ladies in their 60s.�
s Left and Above, Wes J designs. Jagon, also a volunteer with the Surfrider Foundation, an organization founded by surfers to protect ocean waters and beaches, regularly donates clothes to be auctioned at their fundraising events. He also worked with Project Bellingham’s Beauty Bar project to raise more than $1,000 for local domestic violence prevention and assistance programs over the last three years. Wes J Clothing is available at 4 Starrs Boutique in Fairhaven, Yeager’s Sporting Goods and Sportsman’s Chalet in Bellingham, and at www.wesjclothing.com or by calling 360/920-3231.
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was just unbelievable what these people accomplished in the mountains with no basic equipment and no modern tools,” he said. Because the mines were usually located in steep, hard-to-reach places, all materials were brought in by horses and assembled on-site. Workers had to build their own mills to crush ore, extract gold and meld it into ingots, or small bricks. Special coats were made with interior pockets for workers to stash the gold in order to avoid being robbed on their way back down the mountain. The Lone Jack took out about $30,000 a month in gold “Back then gold was worth about $20 an ounce–the size of a sugar cube,” he said. “Today, it’s worth about $1,400 an ounce now, about 700 percent more, so even in today’s money they were carrying out a lot of riches.” Dreams of Gold is available for $29.95 at various Whatcom County locations. For a complete listing of locations visit www.dreamsofgold.us
Gold kept them coming By Tara Nelson
W
hen Bellingham resident Michael Impero set out to research his first book “The Lone Jack Mine:
King of the Mount Baker Mining District,” he uncovered more information than he expected. Impero recently published his second book “Dreams of Gold,” which takes a comprehensive look at Whatcom County’s 110-year history of gold mining. The book outlines the 12 major mines of the area, including The Lone Jack mine, the largest, most productive mine in the history of Whatcom County. Through five years of researching newspaper articles, essay reports, court records, claim files, sales records, maps and personal papers, Impero weaves together historical narratives, short biographies with 300 pages and more than 200 photographs. “My career was construction and it
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Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 23
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What makes our map so useful? T Detailed street maps & directory T Large format when unfolded - 27"x19" T Folded, conveniently fits in glove compartment T Business display ads T Trailheads T Advertiser’s place of business located on the map T Calendar of events T Mile Posts T Useful community phone numbers T Advertiser directory by category T Area history
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24 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
By Jeremy Schwartz
G
iven its fierce reputation, the sight of a wolverine or its tracks in the wild might make someone traveling the backcountry want to head the other way rather than stop to take pictures. But in an effort to learn more about this elusive carnivore and help save them from extinction, biologists and volunteers with Conservation Northwest are asking backcountry skiers, hikers and outdoor enthusiasts of all shades to do just that. Dave Moskowitz, a wildlife tracking instructor with the Duvall-based Wilderness Awareness School, recently led a seminar in Bellingham on tracking wolverines in the snow as part of the school’s Cascade Citizen Wildlife Monitoring project. The project’s main goal is to teach people who travel the backcountry how to identify and document the tracks of various carnivores native to the Pacific Northwest, Moskowitz said. The information is vital to understanding where these animals make their homes and how to protect them from humans. These efforts are especially critical with wolverines since little is known about their current range in the North Cascades, Moskowitz said. Fur-trapping and poaching in the late 1800s reduced their numbers to an estimated 500 remaining in the wild in small populations in Washington, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. Federal researchers have recently begun to track seven individuals in the North Cascades and have documented a breeding population. But first things first: what exactly is a wolverine? The 40-50 pound carnivores are
the largest land-based members of the weasel family, Moskowitz said. Other members include the fisher, marten and sea otter, which is the largest overall. “Weasels. Probably the least appreciated family of carnivores in the world,” Moskowitz said, smiling. Sometimes referred to as a bearcat, wolverines have extremely powerful jaws and will eat pretty much any sort of protein they can get their claws on, Moskowitz said. They mostly rely on scavenged meals but will sometimes hunt small mammals, such as marmots. Moskowitz said wolverines’ fierceness and tenacity is rather unique to animals of their size. They have been known to dig through avalanche debris with their powerful claws to retrieve frozen mountain goat carcasses and even take on mountain lions and bears for their kills. “They have a big personality,” Moskowitz said. Wolverines tend to live near tree lines and steep slopes that are covered in snow the majority of the year, Moskowitz explained. They can travel upwards of 30 miles in day which, combined with their shyness around humans, accounts for much of the difficulty in researching them, he said. However, ideal wolverine habitat is often great for backcountry skiing, hence Conservation Northwest’s desire to equip skiers and hikers with the knowledge to differentiate wolverine tracks from those of other animals. “It’s easier to train skiers how to look for tracks than train researchers how to ski,” Moskowitz said. A wolverine’s five-toed tracks are unique from larger carnivores, such as wolves and bears, Moskowitz
explained. A wolverine’s paw is about the size of a human palm and will leave a print in which its claws will typically leave marks in the snow. Wolverine prints most closely resemble marten and fisher prints, though are the largest of the three, Moskowitz noted. The prints will likely be found in groups of two or three since wolverines often move with a loping gait, more like a squirrel or otter than a wolf or cat, he explained. Even if a print’s identity is questionable, Moskowitz still suggested documenting it so experts with Conservation Northwest can have to chance to identify it. “If you think it possibly could be a wolverine, it’s not going to hurt to take some pictures,” Moskowitz said. “There are effectively two types of print: definitely not a wolverine and possibly a wolverine.” Moskowitz advised taking photos – or lacking a camera, sketches – of an individual track from about six inches directly above it and a few photos of the tracks in a line if there is more than one. Including a small ruler, tape measure or something else to provide scale will also help, Moskowitz explained. Moskowitz suggested anyone who finds prints also follow them to see if they can find scraps of hair or scat that could be bagged up and delivered to Conservation Northwest’s office at 1208 Bay Street, suite 201, in Bellingham. Any evidence of a wolverine’s presence will aid in conservation efforts. Photos of wolverine tracks can be e-mailed to wolverine@conservationnw.org. More information on the wildlife monitoring program can be found at www.conservationnw.org or by calling the office at 360/671-9950.
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Settling in at Harrison Hot Springs By Tara Nelson
T
he history of the public bathhouse traces back to ancient Rome and the Indus Valley civilization (what is now known as Pakistan), where a desire for cleanliness brought people together in large, heated pools. As time progressed, the public bath morphed into indoor basins with showers and steps for lounging, cleansing sands, aromatic oils, steam rooms and saunas. And, as so often in history, necessities lend themselves to tradition and public bathing became a ritual and a way of socializing. While most people can easily turn on a faucet and draw a bath of heated water in the privacy of their own home, there is still something alluring about the public bathhouse or sauna. From the Native American sweat lodges to the Turkish bathhouses and Finnish saunas, public bathing still hold a significant cultural draw. But most of all, it’s just a great way to warm up when the temperature outside drops. Situated in British Columbia’s coastal Lillooet Range, about 60 miles from Vancouver and less than 30 miles from the U.S. border, the town of Agassiz is home to one of B.C.’s best kept secrets – Harrison Hot Springs Resort. Since the resort’s first beginnings in the late 1800s, it has been a destination for Canadians as well as Americans who want a reprieve from the Northwest’s cool climate. With summer and holiday months at the resort often being packed to Disney Land capacity, late winter is the
perfect time to visit as the crowds die down and waters grow still. Harrison Hot Springs Resort hotel has 337 guest rooms, cottages, and suites with a variety of views and rates. All rooms come with access to the mineral spring and swimming pools. The resort is a living piece of history in B.C., stretching back to the late 1880s. The first building, built in 1885, was called The Saint Alice Hotel, and consisted of a wood frame structure. During that time, rooms were available for 50 cents a night above the hot springs pool and guests would often rent them just to breathe in the vapors for their supposed health benefits. The resort has hosted everyone from Clark Gable during the 1930s to Robin Williams and Liam Neeson and Mark Wahlberg in more recent years. “Back then it was the only place of its kind between Seattle and Vancouver and people came from all over,” he said. Delaware North Companies bought the facility in August of 2002 and has since spent more than $18 million in renovations, including the hotel’s east and west towers, the west wing, meeting rooms, and beachfront areas. The pools Today, the town of Harrison Hot Springs has dozens of outdoor adventure possibilities from organic farm tours to sturgeon fishing (during the fall season), year-round wildlife tours by boat, kayaking and hiking. Most of your time, however, will probably be spent simply relaxing in one of the five natural mineral hot pools that are piped in
from the nearby springs. Nearly 200,000 gallons of steaming hot mineral water percolates from the ground at approximately 155 F each day. The water is piped in to the resort and the town pool where it is cooled with purified water from Harrison Lake. The resort has five pools and temperatures to choose from: the Healing Springs Spa, a large hat-shaped Pavilion building, houses the hottest mineral pool (104 F) and an eightfoot deep (85 F) indoor lap pool.
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WANTED... WE NEED VACATION HOMES! Glacier and Maple Falls homeowners: are you looking for ways to off-set the debt service on your 2nd home? Consider placing your vacation property in the Mt. Baker Lodging vacation rental program. Mt. Baker Lodging offers a full-service “turn-key” program that combines extensive marketing with reservation procurement and professional housekeeping services, providing you with hassle-free rental income that assists in reducing the debt service associated with owning and maintaining a second home. Our Clients enjoy peace-of-mind while working with the Mt. Baker area’s oldest, largest and most established vacation rental agency. Mt. Baker Lodging provides friendly and knowledgeable personnel in a fully staffed local area office, utilizing a direct hands-on approach to managing the properties that we represent. Our Clients also have the flexibility of utilizing their homes for personal use between rental occasions. It’s a win/win!
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reservations@mtbakerlodging.com Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 25
Getting there
Harrison.
Continued from page 25
Where to eat The resort has several dining establishments from which to choose. Their Lakeside Café offers casual fare and their formal Copper Room dining hall is a throw back to the hotel’s long heritage – it has operated since the hotel first opened in 1886.Also, be sure to check out the Copper Room’s wellvaried breakfast buffet that includes fruit, eggs benedict and waffles.
Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa is located just 34 miles from the Sumas/Abbottsford border crossing at 100 Esplanade Avenue, Harrison Hot Springs, British Columbia, Canada. They can be reached by calling 604/796-2244. From the Sumas border crossing, take the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy 1) east to exit 135 and follow signs. More info at www.harrisonresort.com.
Rocking with the Hollywood Farmers By Matt Feral A familiar sight in Glacier, Bellingham and other parts west, one of the area’s hottest groups, The Hollywood Farmers are working on a new release. Lead guitarist and singer Steve Furno says along with themes of dark humor and alcohol-fueled
jamborees, a large amount of his intensity on stage was forged in these very mountains. “I get the same rush shredding a pow field as I do playing for people.” Comprised of a four-genius core, Steve (guitar and vocals), Marcel Ardans (upright bass), Gus Downs (percussion), and Maritza
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Soto (violin), the group rotates rotate guest players to achieve the unique sound that has become characteristic of THF. The band has been fortunate enough to work with world-class producer “The Stunt Man” of Titan Sound, as well as collaborate with names such as Bocephus King and Sweet Papa Lowdown. Recently they have enlisted the help of Sovereign Records, an up and coming record label formerly based on the East Coast, and have been turning heads in Seattle. They have begun work on a follow up to “God is Young,” their debut album; the new release is due out later this year. Their summer calendar is quickly filling up with shows throughout Washington, and further down the coast. Be sure to catch them when they come through your town.
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s How would you de-construct the Deming Mile High Potato Cake burger at Il Caffe Rifugio? Would you use a knife and fork and go all dainty? Or would you just open up wide and let’er have it? Whichever way you go, you’re going to be a happy camper. It comes with hamburger (surprise!), potato cake, tomato, special sauce and a side salad. It’s incredibly good. Grab it at Il Caffe Rifugio at 5415 Mt. Baker Hwy on your right going to the mountain.
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26 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
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Map Directory 1 BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL 974 Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2200
8 MISTY MOUNTAINS REALTY 8193 Kendall Rd., Maple Falls • 599-2659 9 MOUNTAINSIDE GARDENS GALLERY & GIFTS 6900 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2890
14 CROSS ROADS GROCERY & VIDEO 7802 Silver Lake Rd., Maple Falls • 599-9657
21 WAKE ’N BAKERY 6903 Bourne St., Glacier • 599-1658
15 INN AT MT. BAKER 8174 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 877/567-5526
21 MT. BAKER SNOWBOARD SHOP 9996 Forest St., Glacier • 599-2008
16 THE LOGS 7577 Canyon View Dr., Glacier • 599-2711
2 ACME GENERAL STORE Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2146
10 BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS 7425 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-1017
3 EVERYBODY’S STORE Hwy 9, Van Zandt • 592-2297
10 FROSTY INN RESTAURANT 7461 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2594
4 DODSON’S IGA 3705 Mt. Baker Hwy, Nugent’s Corner • 592-5351
11 MT. BAKER LODGING 7463 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2463
5 KELLEY INSURANCE 103 W. Main St., Everson • 966-3732 619 Cherry St., Sumas • 988-2462
12 HARVEST MOON BAKERY 7466 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-1347
19 MT. BAKER VIEW GUESTHOUSE 6920 Central Ave., Glacier • 599-2155
13 SLIDE MOUNTAIN BAR & GRILL 7471 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 656-5833
20 GLACIER SKI SHOP 9966 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-1943
13 MAPLE FUELS WASH-A-TON Corner of Mt. Baker Hwy & Silver Lake Rd. Maple Falls • 599-2222
20 HAIRSTREAM 9970 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2443
6 IL CAFFE RIFUGIO 5415 Mt. Baker Hwy, Deming • 592-2888 7 NORTH FORK BREWERY 6186 Mt. Baker Hwy, Deming • 599-2337
22 MILANO’S RESTAURANT 9990 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2863
17 WINTER CREEK B&B 9253 Cornell Creek, Glacier • 599-2526
23 GRAHAM’S STORE 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2665
18 SCOTT’S SKI SERVICE 9935 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-WAXX
23 GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-1964
18 MT. BAKER HOMES & LAND 9937 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-1900
24 CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA & BAR 10459 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2511 25 LUXURY GETAWAYS www.stayatmtbaker.com, Glacier • 877-90-BAKER
FIND MORE RESOURCES AT WWW.MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
Mt. Baker Highway Mile Posts Mile 1: Junction of I-5 and Mt. Baker Hwy., Sunset Drive. Mile 3: View of Coast Mountain Range in Canada (left). Mile 8: Whatcom County Parks & Recreation Dept. (Right). The headquarters offers a rest area with picnic tables, restrooms and a view of Mt. Baker, elevation 10,778 feet. 360/7332900. Mile 9: Deming Logging Show – second weekend in June. Two-day show: log rolling, tree climbing and axe throwing. Nooksack River Bridge – great fishing spots can be found. Mile 10: Community of Nugent's Corner. Groceries, gas, bank (ATM), bakery, cafe, crafts and other services. Mile 11: U-pick berry farms (right and left). Strawberries in June, raspberries in July and blueberries in August. Christmas tree farms (right and left). Mount Baker Vineyards (left). Tasting room/gift shop open Wednesday – Sunday. Grape Stomp Festival in September. Mile 12: Community of Deming. Stewart Mountain – elev. 3,087 feet (right). Sumas Mountain – elev. 3,430 feet (left). Mile 14: Highway 9 South Junction (right). South to Van Zandt, Acme, Wickersham and Skagit Valley. Attractions: B&B, general store, mushroom farm, and train ride. Nooksack River Forks (right). Nooksack River forks into three segments: the North Fork, which Mt. Baker Highway parallels; the Middle Fork, which heads southeast to the southern face of Mt. Baker; and the South Fork, which heads south into the Skagit Valley. Hwy. 9 follows the South Fork.
Mile 16: Mosquito Lake Road – Bald Eagle Viewing Spot (right). Dec. – Feb. Turn right onto Mosquito Lake Road, drive to the first bridge that crosses the North Fork Nooksack. Park on left shoulder of Mosquito Lake Road Look for eagles. Mile 18: Community of Welcome (left). Grocery store, fire station, senior center and other services. Mile 21: Kendall Creek Hatchery (right). Turn right onto Fish Hatchery Road. The hatchery raises chinook, coho and chum salmon as well as steelhead, rainbow and cutthroat trout. Mile 22: Slide Mountain – elevation 4,884 feet (right). Named for a landslide on its north face that may have dammed up the Nooksack River in ancient times. Highway 547 North Junction/Kendall Road (left). North to Kendall, peaceful Valley, Paradise Lakes, Columbia and Sumas. Gas, groceries, golf, tavern. Mile 23: Community of Kendall. Grocery store and gas (left). Mile 25: Community of Maple Falls, post office, pay phones, cabin rentals, lodging, restaurants, gas, groceries, liquor, library. Silver Lake Park, Silver Lake Road, 3.5 miles north (left). Park sits on 411 acres around Silver Lake. Mile 27: Farm stand (right). Fresh produce, gourmet foodstuffs. Mile 29: View of Nooksack River (right). Highway ascends a ledge overlooking the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Mile 30: Mt. Baker Scenic Turnout (right). Mile 33: Glacier – elev. 932 feet. Last community along the highway. Fire department, post office, library, general store, restaurants, snowboard shop, lodging, phones. Mile 34: Gallup Creek Picnic Area (right). Picnic tables and
trash cans; no restroom. Glacier Public Service Center (right). Open Memorial Day to October. Rangers assist with hikes and camp planning, and issues permits. Restrooms , picnic area. 360/599-2714, www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs. Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Boundary National Forest Scenic Byway. Glacier Creek Road (Rd. #39) to Mt. Baker Vista (right). Mostly paved, 9.5 mile road leads to Mt. Baker view. Mile 36: Douglas Fir Campground (left). National forest camp built by the CCC in the 1930s. Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 1-877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Horseshoe Bend Trail (right). Access for guided river rafting tours. Washington State Sno-Park (left). Permit required for snow mobiling or cross-country skiing. Mile 37: Church Mountain – elevation 6,245 feet (left). High elevation trails on the southern slope are often the first in the area to open for summer hiking. Turnouts to view North Fork Nooksack River (right). Mile 40: Excelsior Group Camp (right). National Forest Campground. No water. Fee charged. Reservations only:1-877-4446777 or at www.recreation.gov. Nooksack Falls, Wells Creek Road Road #33 (right). Take Wells Creek Road a half mile down to parking area and fenced viewpoint. Fall plummets 100 feet. Mile 41: Excelsior Pass Trail (left). Mile 43: North Fork Nooksack Research Natural Area (left). Established in 1937, this is a 1,400-acre preserve of old-growth
Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Western Red Cedar. Mile 44: Nooksack River Viewpoint (right). Mile 46: Twin Lakes Road (Road #3065) at Shuksan Highway Maintenance Sheds (left). Twin Lakes is not accessible until early to mid-August. Hannegan Pass Road (Road #32) (left). Popular cross-country skiing area in winter. Shuksan Picnic Area – Hannegan Pass Road (left). Tables, a restroom, Nooksack River views. Mining cabin nearby. Silver Fir Campground (right). Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 1-877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Mile 47: Goat Mountain – elevation 6,891 feet. (N.E.). Summer grazing range for one of four bands of mountain goats. Mile 49: View Mt. Shuksan – elevation 9,038 feet. (East). Mile 50: View Mt. Sefrit – elevation 6,015 feet. (Southeast). Mile 52: Mt. Baker Ski area White Salmon Day Lodge (left). Mile 53: Entrance to Heather Meadows. Mile 55: Picture Lake (road forks – stay to the right). Picture Lake – elevation 4,100 feet, provides a postcard view of Mt. Shuksan – elev. 9,038 feet. Vista picnic area (right). Picnic area; no restrooms. Mile 56: Austin Pass Picnic Area (right). CCC-built area sits in a bowl-shaped valley with glorious views. Heather Meadows Visitor Center (right). Open mid-July to September. Mile 58: Artist Point – elev. 5,140 feet. (End of highway). Parking lot surrounded by Mt. Baker’s peak (south), Mt. Shuksan (east) and Table Mountain – elev. 5,628 feet.
Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011 27
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“At Graham’s, you get what’s coming to you.”
As featured in SUNSET MAGAZINE & BEST PLACES NORTHWEST
Panoramic Views of the Nooksack River and Mt. Baker Gourmet breakfast Hot Tub Heli Pad Lap Pool Adult only facility Registered Massage Therapist by appt. •
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8174 Mt. Baker Hwy 360/599-1776 between Maple Falls & Glacier, mile post 28
Mt. Baker View Guesthouse View • 2 Bedrooms
Special Packages Available
Full Kitchen • Hot Tub • Sleeps 6
Cascade Retreat
GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT World famous restaurant & tavern at the foot of Mt. Baker
Spacious • Hot tub • Sauna Full kitchen • Sleeps 15
Family Friendly Dining!
Reservations 360-599-2155
Hot Fire! Cold Beer!
www.mtbakerviewguesthouse.com
www.theinnatmtbaker.com 877/567-5526
e Steaks f Burgers e Phish Tacos
f Rotating Taps e Wines f Pool Table
The Apres ´ Ski is Here! CHAIR 9
7OODSTONE 0IZZA "AR s &AMILY $INING
LIVE MUSIC &RIDAY 3ATURDAY Check Facebook for schedule &REE 7I&I Now Open: Upstairs GAME ROOM shuffle board, pool tables, ping pong, darts & foosball
0RIVATE ROOM AVAILABLE FOR PARTIES AND EVENTS
New Office in Maple Falls at 7425 Mt. Baker Hwy. 1.888.695.7533 BakerAccommodations.com
10459 Mt Baker Hwy., Glacier 360/599-2511 www.Chair9.com
28 Mount Baker Experience • Winter/Spring 2011
9989 Mt. Baker Hwy., Glacier, WA
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360-599-1964
Music calendar at www.grahamsrestaurant.com