Mount Baker Experience Fall 2011

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W W W. N O O K S A C K C A S I N O S .C O M 5048 MOUNT BAKER HWY • DEMING WA • 877.935.9300 BELLINGHAM 15 MINUTES JUST EAST OF JUST 15 MINUTES EAST OF BELLINGHAM 2 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

contents 4

A Splendid View Scrambling to the top of the North Twin range.

6

It’s Beer Time That is, it’s time to try some new local offerings.

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Alone, at the top A solo hike up Church Mountain offers many rewards for the intrepid.

10 Gliding through grandeur Try Baker Lake for a spectacular weekend.

12 Running with the salmon Witness the marvel of nature as the salmon journey back to their natal streams.

14 Look out for bears Whitewater rafting on the Nooksack is quite the adventure.

20 Graham’s Restaurant Redux It takes a village to open a restaurant.

20 Outdoor book round-up PHOTO BY TIM CHANDONNET

25 Got game? The thrill of hunting in the Pacific Northwest.

27 Regional map

Cover photo: Tim Chandonnet

This is where it all HAPPENS ...

e perience MOUNT BAKER

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Printed in Canada Vol XXV No. 4

Address: 225 Marine Drive,Blaine,WA 98230 Tel: 360/332-1777, Fax: 360/332-2777 Email: info@mountbakerexperience.com Next edition: November Ads due: October 19 Publisher Patrick Grubb Co-Publisher/Advertising Manager Louise Mugar Managing Director Kathy McGee Ad & Cover Design Charlie Hagan,Ruth Lawless Staff Writers Jeremy Schwartz,Carissa Wright Contributors Gene Davis,Tim Chandonnet,Sam Lozier,Brad Walton,Kitty Bond,Alexandra Grubb, Andrew Grubb,Sue Madsen,Brian McCall,April Miles, Kari Nuemeyer,Meghan Hill,Grady McCombs, Jack Waytz Advertising Sales Molly Ernst,Janet McCall, April Miles Office Manager Carissa Wright

Welcome to the Mount Baker Experience,the quarterly recreation guide for and about the Mt.Baker area,published by Point Roberts Press,Inc. Locally owned and operated,the company also publishes The Northern Light,All Point Bulletin,Pacific Coast Weddings and Waterside in Blaine,Washington.Point Roberts Press is a member of the Washington Newspaper Publishers Association,chambers of commerce in Whatcom County and the Bellingham/Mt. Baker Convention and Visitors Bureau. The opinions expressed by contributors are their own and are offered for the general interest of readers.We welcome your letters; however,the opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the editor.For circulation and rate information, or to send your letters,please address to:Mount Baker Experience,225 Marine Drive,Blaine,WA 98230, fax them to 360/332-2777 or email info@mountbakerexperience.com.

find it online Calendar of events for all things Mt.Baker: www.mountbakerexperience.com www.mountbakerexperience.com:Read the current and past issues.

www.mtbakerchamber.org,www.glacierchamber.org:Discover the area’s businesses. www.weather.com:Get all the weather you need. www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/northwest/traffic/bordercams:Info on border delays.

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Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 3

A SPLENDID VIEW Scrambling to the top of the North Twin Mountain Range STORY & PHOTOS BY SAM LOZIER

EONS AGO, A HUGE MASS OF DUNITE, A RARE, HEAT-RESISTANT ROCK THAT FORMS IN THE MANTLE OF THE EARTH, BROKE FREE. THIS MASSIVE, SUPER-HARD ROCK ROSE THROUGH THE CRUST ALONG A FAULT LINE AND EVENTUALLY SETTLED TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER, FORMING THE TWIN SISTERS RANGE.

Long isolated from similar rock, the reddish-brown Twin Sisters range stands in stark contrast to the deep greens of the foothills and the hulking white and grey mass of Mt. Baker. Westerners first started making their mark on the Twin Sisters range in the late 1800s when a group of climbers wound their way up South Twin through what was then trackless forest. Not long after, the mining and logging industries began making their way up the western flanks of the mountain, carving a maze-like network of roads and quilting the landscape with clearcuts and quarries. My own fascination with the mountain started last summer when I moved to Whatcom County. On a whim, I set out one morning to climb the triangular-shaped North Twin via its rugged west ridge. After eight hours of wandering around logging roads, bushwhacking and getting scratched, dehydrated and hungry, I gave up without even getting to the base of the route. I regretted my lack of planning and was disappointed by the whole experience, but the mountain was no less appealing. On every clear day that I pass through Nugents Corner on my dri-

ve from work in Bellingham to my home in the foothills, the Twin Sisters range dominates the horizon. After a long day of work, it’s refreshing to stare up at North Twin, bathed in fading light, and think of the clear air and long views the summits must offer a climber. Fred Beckey, in his classic book, “Cascade Alpine Guide” (Mountaineers Books), describes the West Ridge of North Twin as “a splendid climb, hard to equal in its difficulty rating.” With Beckey’s endorsement, the recommendation of many friends, and my own obsession with the mountains growing on every commute, I resolved to complete the climb as soon as possible. That was in early June. By early August, half a summer’s worth of disappointing weather, schedule conflicts and generally poor planning had conspired to keep me off the mountain. Finally though, it all came together. I sent my climbing partner Mason a text message, he liked the plan, and two days later we met along SR 542 near Mosquito Lake Road. As we drove up Middle Fork Road, we encountered few of the normally common log and rock trucks that come hurtling down the road without warning.

4 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

As we arrived at the trailhead, the parking lot at the gated bridge over the Nooksack’s Middle Fork, we were surprised to find the normally locked gate standing open. Climbers are usually forced to hike or bike up miles of steep logging road to access the true start of the hike, a dirt pull-off above Daily Prairie. Accepting the fact that we might get locked in, we drove through the gate and up the normally off-limits portion of the road, thus saving ourselves at least an hour of hiking. From our parking spot above Daily Prairie, at the actual trailhead, we plodded slowly up an overgrown logging road toward the shoulder of the West Ridge of North Twin. Soon after, the road ended and we found ourselves climbing much more steeply along a well used climbers’ trail toward the rocky shoulder that marked the start of the scramble. High clouds were obscuring the view, and I worried whether this summer’s gloomy weather would compromise yet another day in the mountains. Mason was quite confident the weather would hold off though, and I was unwilling to let a few clouds get in the way of a good time, so we pressed on.

As the trail steepened and turned into a scramble, we finally laid hand on stone. Mason had scrambled the route before, so he knew what to expect, but I was stunned by the texture of the rock. When touched, even flat surfaces felt sharp and gritty – like sandstone, but without the crumbly feeling. I ended up climbing in gloves to make sure my hands didn’t get torn up. The climb passed as a pleasant blur with Mason and I trading off taking the lead up the ridge. The scrambling was just difficult enough to be interesting, but without the scare factor of full-on rock climbing. Every time we worried that we’d climbed ourselves into a jam, some obvious alternative route would appear and allow us through. Having focused mainly on micro-scale route-finding problems, and talking almost nonstop, we were surprised at the speed with which we reached the false summit. All that was left was a quick walk across snow toward the true summit. We lounged on the summit’s only flat spot for nearly an hour, watching marshmallow clouds float across the valleys before colliding with the foothills. To descend, we chose the north face, a steep snow-covered slope that would get us back to the

same elevation as the start of the ridge. After a few hundred feet of downclimbing from the summit, we reached a spot on the slope that we deemed safe enough for nonsuicidal glissading. Mason went first, sliding quickly toward the valley and into a cloud. Once I was confident the speck that now stood at the bottom of the slope was still in good spirits, I took a deep breath, sat down in the snow, pushed myself forward and accelerated. By the time I reached the bottom I was soaked and sore, but it was easily the most fun I’ve ever had on snow without my skis. We headed back toward the car with smiles on our faces, content with another great day in the mountains.

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Sam Lozier followed a dream and moved to Washington state a year ago. Since his move, he’s tried to motivate others to get out and experience the Pacific Northwest by sharing his experiences through his writing and photography.

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route description can be found in • AFredcomprehensive Beckey’s “Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3: Rainy Pass to Fraser Riverâ€? (The Mountaineers Books). best maps of the area are the USGS Quads, • The “Cavanaugh Creekâ€? and “Twin Sisters Mountain.â€? has a great map of the confusing • Summitpost.org approach: http://images.summitpost.org/original/700647.JPG. (Please note: Driving up the approach road past the gate, as we did, is a risky move. The gate can be closed and locked without warning, and if you get stuck behind it, you won’t even have cell service to call for an embarrassing rescue.) learn more about the geology of the Twin Sisters • Torange, “A Walk Through Geologic Time from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bayâ€? by Don Easterbrook, a WWU professor, offers some great insight.

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t XXX BBJ DD Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 5

IT’S BEER TIME! It was the sunniest Sunday of the summer so far. On the saltchuck, boaters planed across the sparkling waters; in the North Cascades, hikers trudged up mountains; cyclists cruised country roads; from Vancouver to Olympia, the multitudes were out and strenously enjoying the summer day. Me? Well, along with 1,400 other beer lovers, I shunned such arduous pursuits in favor of an afternoon spent sampling diverse brews such as Stone’s Russian imperial stout and Fox Barrel’s pear cider at downtown Bellingham’s Brewers by the Bay, an annual event sponsored by the city’s Rotary Club to raise money for its local and international service projects. Eight hundred people poured through the gates in the first hour alone, ready to sample a handful (or more) of the nearly 70 different beers offered by more than 30 regional breweries present in Depot Market Square. We like our beer around here. Between Arlington and Abbotsford and from Anacortes to Twisp, more than a dozen craft breweries pour their hearts into their ales, lagers and barley wines. Four made the trek to Brewers by the Bay: Winthrop’s Old Schoolhouse Brewing, Mount Vernon’s Skagit River

Brewery and Bellingham’s Chuckanut Brewery and Boundary Bay Brewery and Bistro. Beer has obviously gained a foothold in Northwest Washington, and I set out that weekend to try as many as I could. BREWERS BY THE BAY, BELLINGHAM Lyra Morrison is a beer veteran. In 2010, the Mount Vernon resident started what she calls the “30 Day Beer Challenge.” She and her husband took advantage of the town’s unique situation – four pubs featuring craft beers within walking distance of each other – and set out to drink a different beer at one of the pubs every night in the month of March. She did it again in 2011. So it was no surprise to run into her at Brewers by the Bay. There’s no shortage of new beers to try, so Morrison plans to continue the beer challenge in 2012. She hopes others will join her, or start their own events to highlight craft breweries and the local taphouses that carry their product. Judging by the crowd downtown, the necessary love of good beer is already there. Admission to the event got you five tasting tickets, with additional tickets available for $1. After sampling the Skagit River Gospel IPA

(a balanced, slightly dark hop head’s delight) and a Veltins German pilsener (one of the freshest-tasting beers I’ve ever enjoyed), I had a dilemma on my hands. Side-by-side were Fish Brewing Co. and Harmon Brewing Co., both pouring an imperial red ale, a variety I’d never tasted before. Would I burn through two of my tickets to compare the intriguing but undoubtedly similar beers? I asked the brewer from Fish about the difference between the beers. Theirs was more hoppy and full-bodied, he said, while the Harmon pour was lighter and more watery. He filled my glass and told me to keep my ticket – he wanted to know what I thought of the competition after I tasted both. Which beer was better didn’t matter (though for the record Fish knocked it out of the park). It was all about encouraging thoughtful tasting, a theme running throughout the event. If you missed this year’s event, you can keep up with next year’s plans at the Rotary website, www.bellinghamrotary.org. At a beer festival like Brewers by the Bay, the brewers come to you, and you can taste one or two beers from any number of different breweries. To sample a brewery’s full lineup, however, you’ll need to go to them.

BEER 101 (an online course) To brush up on your beer chops, visit www.craftbeer.com or www.beeradvocate.com for primers on styles, breweries, brewing techniques, food pairings and more. For more on Washington breweries and to plan your own beer adventure, visit www.washingtonbrewersguild.org. For B.C. brewpubs and microbreweries, visit www.bcbeer.ca.

6 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

STORY & PHOTO BY CARISSA WRIGHT

BIRDSVIEW BREWERY, CONCRETE After a quick hike along the east bank of Baker Lake, a stop for a refreshing beer was absolutely in order. Tiny, circular Birdsview Brewery, located just a mile or two down Highway 20 from the lake turnoff, fit the bill. An impressive collection of growlers lining the rafters two deep pays testament to this family’s love for beer. The brewery was founded in 2006 and currently offers 11 beers, ranging from the light Pail Ale (the name is no error, the tasting sheet insists, but rather a holdover from when the beer was carried from place to place in pails), to the dark, rich porter. A departure from many Northwest breweries, hops are noticeably absent from Birdsview’s beers. Even the India Pale Ale, generally the hoppiest of beers, is smooth and mellow. “Our brewer thinks hops are overrated,” an aside on the tasting sheet reads, “and that you should be able to taste the beer.” The hops deficit aside, the array of beers at Birdsview is impressive. The majority of its offerings are light, with only the amber, the brown and the porter venturing into darker territory. This doesn’t mean they lack for flavor, however. The blonde ale is brewed with a hint of lime for a crisp, refreshing taste, while the barley-wheat beer is made with lemon and honey. Birdsview’s hefeweizen is one of the best I’ve tasted, unique in its slightly thick flavor. The standouts, however, are the amber, brewed with real maple syrup, and the brown ale, brewed with sweet molasses and Vienna malts.

NORTH SOUND BREWING, MOUNT VERNON The first North Sound Brewing kegs were sold to local pubs just one year ago. Today you can find their ales in some 60 bars and restaurants from Bellingham to Seattle. I’ve come across a number of North Sound’s beers in Mount Vernon and Bellingham, but I’d never trekked to the brewery on Memorial Highway, which meant I’d never tasted some of their harder-tofind ales. One such seasonal is the Rye of Passage anniversary ale. It’s dryhopped and described as IPA-style, but the addition of rye malt balances and complements the hop flavor. It’s an overall thoroughly enjoyable summer ale. Another treat was the Scotch ale on nitro. A beer poured on nitro is smoother and often richer-tasting than its carbonated cousins. The North Sound Scotch is malty and slightly sweet, and the nitro adds a creamy dimension. Next up for North Sound are a reddish pale ale, which they started pouring in August, and a bourbon-barrel aged imperial porter, which will be tapped sometime in September or October. I’m looking forward to that one. Unlike the other breweries I visited, North Sound doesn’t have its own kitchen. However, ordering a pizza for delivery or stepping out for a heaping plate of pulled pork or barbecued ribs from the Hickory Avenue barbecue truck sometimes parked in the lot is not only welcomed but encouraged. In fact, I would urge you to go when the Hickory Avenue gentlemen are outside – they make the best barbecue sauce I’ve ever tasted.

THE NORTH FORK BREWERY & BEER SHRINE, DEMING If Birdsview Brewery has the growlers, The North Fork has everything else. More than 90 years worth of beer collectibles, including old cans, bottles, posters, trays, signs and yes, growlers, are displayed on nearly every surface. The brewing operation is small and produces just 109 gallons a batch. As a result, the beer menu changes frequently. When I stopped in, they had just run out of the dry stout, unfortunately one my favorite of North Fork’s offerings. However, with an IPA, ESB, Bavarian hefeweizen, Son of Frog, porter and barleywine still pouring strong, I was well covered. The North Fork brews a number of English-style ales, which run the gamut from well-hopped IPAs to heavily malted Scotch ales with little to no hops present. Though the IPA is billed as “a favorite among hop heads,� it’s closer to the Birdsview Brewery IPA than what I’d consider a true Northwest-style

LOCAL BREWERIES Anacortes Brewery 320 Commercial Avenue Anacortes 360/588-1720 anacortesrockfish.com Big Ridge Brewing Co. 15250 Hwy 10 #103 Surrey, BC 604/575-2371 markjamesgroup.com/bigridge Birdsview Brewing Co. 38302 SR 20 Concrete 360/826-3406 birdsviewbrewingco.com Boundary Bay Brewery 1107 Railroad Avenue Bellingham 360/647-5593 bbaybrewery.com Chuckanut Brewery 601 W. Holly Street Bellingham 360/752-3377 chuckanutbreweryand kitchen.com Dead Frog Brewery 27272 Gloucester Way Aldergrove, BC 604/856-1055 deadfrogbrewery.com La Conner Brewing Co. 117 S. First Street La Conner 360/466-1415 laconnerbrew.com

IPA with minimal citrusy, bitter hops flavor. For my money, North Fork’s Son of Frog was the standout of the current beers on tap. It’s a dark amber in color with plenty of roasted, chocolate and caramel malts for a full-bodied taste. Whatever your beer preference, one of the many Northwest craft brewers makes it. And if it’s not available now, wait a few months – there’s probably a brewer with an idea up his sleeve just waiting for the right time to start brewing. And if you really can’t find what you’re looking for ... there’s always homebrewing.

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When Carissa Wright isn’t drinking delicious, handcrafted beer or hiking Northwest Washington’s easier trails with her corgi, she can generally be found reading (the corgi can generally be found snoring). She has not tried homebrewing herself, but it’s on the list. Look for more tales from Northwest taprooms in future editions.

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Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 7

ALONE, AT THE TOP A solo hike up Church Mountain offers many rewards to the intrepid STORY AND PHOTOS BY SAM LOZIER

AS THE NORTH FORK OF THE NOOKSACK WINDS ITS WAY OUT OF THE MOUNTAINS AND REACHES THE TOWN OF GLACIER, IT PASSES JUST TO THE SOUTH OF CHURCH MOUNTAIN, THE LAST PROMINENT PEAK AT THE MOUTH OF THE VALLEY. THE MOUNTAIN TOWERS ABOVE THE TOWN OF GLACIER AND, ON A CLEAR DAY, IF YOU’RE ON YOUR WAY UP THE HIGHWAY TO POINTS BEYOND THE CHAIR 9 RESTAURANT, YOU’LL FIND IT FILLING YOUR WINDSHIELD.

I’ve had several trips cut short by bad weather during the unusually cold and wet summer, so I was somewhat apprehensive when I set out toward Church alone. It’s a popular hike, but with the exception of the construction crew working on the road bridge over Glacier Creek road, I didn’t see a soul the entire way to the parking lot at the Church Mountain trailhead. As I laced my boots, I wondered if the clouds that were obscuring the summit would clear as they were forecasted to, or if they would stick around as seems to be the new norm. When hiking alone, I often experience periods of intense sensory awareness contrasted by long stretches filled with vividly isolating daydreams. My mind wandered to past adventures in the Olympics where I’d first used my boots. Several minutes later, I snapped back to reality and found myself traveling up the steep switchbacks of the trail. To my left, two thousand feet below me, the turquoise Nooksack wound its way through the valley. Above, the clouds seemed darker and the woods began to get misty. Attempts to avoid stepping on banana slugs, loud birdsong and the questionable weather occupied my mental space for a while, but before long my mind was wandering again. Were the first to top this mountain really the members of a prospecting party from Blaine in 1891, as Fred Beckey suggests, or was it more likely that in the thousands of years of human history predating western settlement someone else had stood atop Sowak, as the mountain was known then? What did the members of the Blaine prospecting party experience when they were up here? They certainly weren’t marching up a well-graded hiking trail. Was the weather nice? How many days did it take them to get here from Blaine? How impressive even the foothills must have looked before they were pocked with geometric farms and clear cuts. As I reached what are normally alpine meadows by midsummer, I was greeted instead by deep snow and thick fog. Is this really such a good idea? Since Canyon Creek road had

8 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

washed out and all the other hikes along this ridge were equally covered in snow and cloud, and it was a Wednesday, I thought, “Am I the only one in America north of the Nooksack right now?” It’s quite unusual to get such a sense of isolation so quickly in the mountains. When not covered in snow, the trail typically switches back and forth across the heather as it climbs steadily toward the craggy ridge that dominates the north edge of the meadows. I made slow progress as I kicked my own steps into the snow. What would the two men who first came up here in the winter think of my pace? The year was 1930. Were they trying to escape from the stress of financial uncertainty and an unknown future in the same way that so many are currently driven to seek adventure? What type of person went on adventures like this during the Depression? The snow steepened as I approached the ridge near the burned, tangled remains of an abandoned fire lookout. My decision to bring an ice axe seemed surprisingly prudent. The ridge offered the first welcoming resting spot of the day, a broad ledge that should have offered spectacular views, but encapsulated by cloud, offered only a vague feeling of exposure. The wind muffled the surreal whistling of the marmots moving among the rocks below me. This is “clearing clouds?” Will I get to see anything at all today? Overcome with a mix of frustration and disappointment, I decided to continue along the ridge until I reached the top or couldn’t continue any farther. Maybe the weather will improve. It is Church Mountain after all ... “Keep the faith” might not be a bad strategy here. From the remains of the fire lookout, the route to the summit wasn’t obvious. Clouds limited my view to about 30 feet in any direction. The easiest way to make progress was to drop to the north side of the ridge toward the kidney lakes before traversing to the steeper snowy slopes. Once on the snowfield, I soon reached a seemingly impassible cliff. The only way forward seemed to involve crossing over a saddle

onto the south side of the ridge. Once over, I realized that the south offered none of the security of snow on the north side, only loose, unsteady rock with the potential for a long fall. Somewhat unsure of my exact position, I continued forward over ambiguous terrain, hoping I’d be able to find my way back in the fog. As I recrested the ridge I found that it had become far narrower. Instead of a wide platform, the ridge had turned into a narrow sidewalk. How much taller can this mountain be? I headed west along the three-foot-wide rock platform, unsure of how much longer I’d be scrambling. Moments later I was standing over a metal USGS survey marker. That was fast. I ate lunch, content with having reached the top, but disappointed at having missed out on the view. The clouds had

s Reaching the top.

added to the remote feeling and sense of privacy, but everyone likes a good view from the top of a precipitous mountain peak. Quite suddenly, and right as I was packing up to leave, the skies opened to the west. It was only a hole through the clouds, but it afforded a glimpse thousands of feet into the valley. As the hole shifted, the ridge I’d just scrambled was suddenly visible. It was much less impressive than it had felt, but such is the nature of solo outings. After a few photos, I turned and headed back across the ridge. It’s amazing how many different faces a mountain can put on. Had the weather been nice, the summit would likely have been crowded and noisy. Instead, I had the privilege of spending the day alone with my thoughts. For the first time in a long while, I remembered that outdoor adventures don’t have to be extreme to be meaningful.

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Sam Lozier followed a dream and moved to Washington state a year ago. Since his move, he’s tried to motivate others to get out and experience the Pacific Northwest by sharing his experiences through his writing and photography.

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PHOTO BY GENE DAVIS

GLIDING THROUGH GRANDEUR Baker Lake: A spectacular weekend adventure STORY BY DAWN GROVES

As a kayaker and work-

Camping and Picnicking Campgrounds along the busy west side of Baker Lake open in May and generally close in late September. At the south end of the lake next to Baker Lake Dam, Kulshan Campground is the only spot open year-round, and full RV hook-ups are available. Seasonal west side campgrounds include Horseshoe Cove, Shannon Creek, Boulder Creek, Panorama Point and Swift Creek. Horseshoe Cove and Swift Creek are popular for families and groups. Swift Creek is the old Baker Lake Resort, now publicly owned and renovated with 55 campsites for tents or RVs, a marina and launch, picnic spots and two group sites. East side campgrounds are more primitive. These include Noisy Creek, Maple Grove and Anderson Point, all accessible by boat or trail. If you paddle across the lake from Shannon Creek and head south, you’ll easily see the sites. In general, overnight camping fees range from $14 to $18. Water and amenities vary, so be sure to check campground facilities at the USDA Forest Service website. Boating Boating is a delight on Baker Lake. Powerboats generally launch at Swift Creek Campground because of the convenient boat dock and marina, however, all campgrounds have boat launches except for Boulder Creek. Kulshan Campground at the south end offers the only yearround launch. Despite Baker Lake’s beauty and easy access, a few potential hazards do exist for boaters.

10 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

Old growth stumps fill the lake basin. If the lake is at high pool – and it is this year – stumps can be hidden just under the lake surface, especially in shallower areas. Boaters also need to plan for the possibility of high afternoon winds from the south whipping the water into icy cold whitecaps. Day-use fees are typically around $5, and passes can be purchased at the camp host office usually around the entrance to each campground. Hiking Baker Lake has several wellmarked trailheads. The best known is Baker Lake Trail, which winds over 14 miles above the lake’s east shore with little elevation gain. Occasional spurs take hikers to lakeside campgrounds or up to panoramic vistas, high-elevation meadows and mountain lakes. Baker Lake Trailhead is located at the south end of the lake past Kulshan Campground, across the Upper Baker Dam and left down Forest Service road #1107 for one mile. Check with the Forest Service office in Sedro-Woolley or the Information Center in Marblemount for suggestions, trail maps and condition reports. Baker Hot Spring Baker Hot Spring is a mineralrich thermal pool about four miles from Baker Lake Road. The up- to100-degree spring offers a fun, short excursion and hidden (clothingoptional) respite. Not monitored by the Forest Service, it still occasionally suffers from neglect or petty vandalism. Visitors help by carting off any trash or empty bottles

they encounter. The turnoff is left past the Boulder Creek Bridge at Forest Service road #1130 (Marten Lake Road). After driving about four miles (bearing right), turn right on Forest Service #1144. Drive another half-mile to a large parking area. The spring is past a switchback at the edge of a clear cut. Important • Bring insect repellent. Baker Lake is known for hungry mosquitos, even in the fall. Adults are less active when temperatures dip below 50 degrees, but they do live through September and sometimes into October. I always take precautions by zipping tent flaps and, if necessary, assembling an inexpensive netted canopy for daytime sitting and eating. • Dress for the cold. Despite warm fall days, lake water is always glacier cold and evening air temperatures drop. Dress in layers with quick-drying synthetic fabrics and/or wool. • Pack for emergencies. Baker Lake may be popular, but it’s still mountain wilderness. Carry the Mountaineer’s Ten Essentials (see sidebar). • Watch the weather. Mountain weather is capricious, so keep an eye on the skies and stay current with weather reports. Always travel with extra clothing and food in case you’re caught unaware. More than once I’ve been grateful for a packed turtleneck, extra water and a few protein bars. • Purchase a Northwest Forest Service Pass. This pass is now required

at all Forest Service day-use fee sites in Washington and Oregon. It’s also interchangeable between vehicles in the same household. You can purchase a day pass for $5 or an annual pass for $30. Read details at www.discovernw.org. Directions From the west: Take State Route 20 off I-5. Drive east approximately 16 miles past Sedro-Woolley, and turn left on Baker Lake Road. After winding north another 14 or so miles you’ll reach Upper Baker Dam. Continue north on Baker Lake Road and follow signs to campgrounds. Forest Service roads are clearly marked. From the east: Take scenic State Route 20 through the North Cascades. Pass through Marblemount and just west of Concrete turn right on Baker Lake Road. After winding north another 14 miles or so you’ll reach Upper Baker Dam. Continue north on Baker Lake Road and follow signs to campgrounds. Forest Service roads are clearly marked. For more information, contact: Mt. Baker Ranger District Park and Forest Information Center 810 State Route 20, Sedro-Woolley, Washington 98284. Tel: 360/8565700 ext. 515. Wilderness Information Center, Marblemount One mile down Ranger Station Road at milepost 105.3 on State Route 20, just west of Marblemount. Tel: 360/854-7245. Online Information: USDA Forest Service website for Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National

PHOTO BY CARISSA WRIGHT

ing mom, I have a penchant for great paddling destinations that are close to home and easy on my wallet. Baker Lake Basin, nestled between Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan, satisfies my requirements and then some. About 20 miles east of Concrete off Baker Lake Road, the basin is defined by Baker Lake, a glacierfed reservoir known for its breathtaking surface reflection of the Mt. Baker summit. The lake is a dogleg shape just under a mile wide with nine long miles of primitive campsites, boat launches, car camping spots and recreational beaches. Networks of well-marked trails guide hikers around the lake and toward high meadows, distant viewpoints and backpacking destinations. I love kayaking Baker Lake in the wee hours of a fall morning. When I dip my paddle into the water, the world is subdued in mist. As the sun burns through, blues and greens heighten and sounds multiply. Autumn intensifies everything with added yellows, fewer visitors and a snap of chill. There are plenty of campgrounds from which to launch a kayak or powerboat. When I’m remote camping, I usually leave my car at Swift Creek Campground where there’s ample parking. I pack the boat and paddle across to the east side of the lake in search of a quiet campsite. If I’m car camping with the family, I drive into Horseshoe Cove because of its easy access, sandy beach and protected swim area.

Forest: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/ about/mbrd.shtml. On the left side main menu, click Recreation. On the displayed Recreation Page, locate Trip Planning and click the second link, Baker Lake Road, Forest Road #11. This displays the Baker Lake / Middle Fork Nooksack page. Scroll down to Activities and select from a list of campgrounds, hiking trails, picnic areas and more. Campsite Information and

Reservations Some campsites can be reserved. Check the website for a list of available spots: www.recreation.gov, or call 877/444-6777.

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Dawn Groves is an author, kayaker, and a productivity consultant for businesses. Visit her at www.dawngroves.com.

PHOTO BY GENE DAVIS

TEN ESSENTIALS If you’re venturing more than a couple hundred yards from your car, the ten essentials are, well, essential. You may not use every or any item on the list during a short day hike, but if you do end up in an emergency situation, you’ll be glad you had your bases covered. The original list was put together in the 1930s by Seattle-based group The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers updated it in 2003 to take a systems approach, which allows for customization to each outdoor adventurer’s preferences and needs.

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RUNNING WITH THE SALMON Salmon are

an icon of the Pacific Northwest, emblematic of the cool, clear rivers that flow from the North Cascades. There are five species of Pacific salmon: Chinook (King), coho (silver), chum (dog), pink (humpy) and sockeye (red). All are anadromous, meaning they begin and end life in fresh water, migrating to the sea after emerging from eggs, rearing there for two to six years, then returning to spawn in the fresh water and clean gravel of their natal stream. Female salmon build a “redd” (nest) in the streamed gravels by digging a shallow depression with their tail, then the male and female simultaneously deposit eggs and milt in the redd and cover them with gravel. Each species of salmon has developed a unique life history and occupies a specific ecological niche. And each species can be observed in the rivers and streams draining Mount Baker. Chinook are the largest Pacific salmon. Historically the Columbia and Elwah rivers supported exceptionally large fish, with “June Hogs” frequently topping 100 pounds or more. Chinook prefer the fast, deep waters of large rivers. Chinook enter local rivers during the spring and summer, moving upstream to lay their eggs (spawn) in the late summer and fall.

Juvenile chinook emerge from the redd in early spring, and most young fish move downstream to the ocean soon thereafter. Juvenile chinook spend approximately four years in the ocean. Good places to observe chinook include the Boyd Creek interpretive trail near Glacier, Donovan Park in northern Skagit County, or via boat in the mainstem Skagit and Nooksack rivers. Chinook can occasionally be observed in the center of Bellingham in Whatcom Creek; look for them from the Racine Street footbridge in late August and early September. Chum salmon are the second largest Pacific salmon. They are weaker swimmers than chinook and typically prefer channel edges or spring-fed side channels for spawning. Chum salmon enter the river to spawn in late fall, with the juveniles emerging and immediately moving downstream to the ocean in early spring. Chum are typically around 2 to 3 feet long, with blotchy purple stripes along their flanks. Whatcom Creek supports a large population of chum that originate from the hatchery in Maritime Heritage Park. Look for chum there in late October and early November. Wild chum salmon can be seen in the North Fork Nooksack River.

Coho are the most widespread species of salmon in our area. They are strong swimmers and jumpers, and prefer small streams for spawning, often traveling far upstream. Coho spawn in the late fall and winter, November through January. Juvenile coho rear in rivers for one to two years before moving downstream to the ocean as smolts, where they reside for about three years. Brick red and dark green coho are easy to see in many small local streams. In Bellingham, look for coho from the footbridges over Chuckanut Creek at Arroyo Park or Padden Creek in Fairhaven Park. Other areas to view coho include Boyd Creek and Thompson Creek near Glacier or in Skagit County. Pink salmon are the smallest Pacific salmonid, averaging about 18 inches long. During their spawning, males develop a pronounced humped back, hence their nickname “humpies.” Juvenile pink salmon rapidly migrate downstream after emerging from redds in early spring and rear there for one year. Pink salmon have a strict twoyear life cycle; in our area they return to spawn only in odd years. This year is forecasted to be one of the largest pink salmon returns in years. Pink salmon will be visible in most small local streams this year start-

ing in late August. Sockeye salmon are unique because the young fish require lakes for rearing. Historically Baker Lake near Concrete supported the only native sockeye population in our region. Construction of dams blocked upstream migration and drowned natural Baker Lake, and thus the sockeye population is currently maintained by hatchery production. During years of high adult returns, fish are released into Baker Lake and spawn along lake margins or at the upstream end of the lake. Look for these gorgeous scarlet and green fish in late September and early October from the Baker River trail footbridge, in spring-fed Channel Creek along the road to the trailhead or on lake margins near the Panorama Point or Shannon Creek campgrounds. For viewing locations in Whatcom County, visit www.whatcom salmon.whatcomcounty.org/salmonseethemrun.html.

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Sue Madsen works as Restoration Ecologist for the Skagit Fisheries Enhancement Group and is a Board Member of the Mount Baker Volcano Research Center. When she’s not chasing salmon, she can be found backcountry skiing, hiking or kayaking on Puget Sound.

PHOTO BY KARI NUEMEYER

STORY BY SUE MADSEN

VIEWING LOCATION DIRECTIONS Boyd Creek Interpretive Trail: Boyd Creek, three miles down Deadhorse Creek Road (Road 37) off Mt. Baker Highway, about a mile east of Glacier. Self-guided interpretive walk follows recently restored Boyd Creek, an important salmon spawning habitat. Signs along this forested mostly boardwalk trail detail the life cycles of species such as Chinook, pink and coho salmon, as well as steelhead and cutthroat trout. Thompson Creek: Bridge located one mile up Glacier Creek Road. North Fork Nooksack: Parking area on North Fork Road, about 1.5 miles from Mosquito Lake Road. Baker Lake: Follow State Route 20 east for 16 miles to milepost 82. Turn left (north) on the Baker Lake Highway (Forest Service Road #11). Continue on the Baker Lake Highway for 25.5 miles to the road’s end at the trailhead and parking area. Channel Creek parallels the road for about one mile just before the road reaches the trailhead. The Baker River trail reaches the Baker River Bridge in .6 miles.

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If you need a little help hitting the trail or expressing your sense of wonder at nature's majesty, outdoor stewards NCI and REI are here to help. The programs offered by the North Cascades Institute (NCI) aren’t just about learning how to pick gear or read a map. Literary and visual arts are as prominent on the schedule as backcountry expeditions. “That’s actually something we’ve long prided ourselves on,” said NCI’s Communications Coordinator

Christian Martin. “There are a lot of different ways to appreciate and interpret a physical landscape, but every landscape also has its artistic levels to it.” This year, the institute marks its 25th anniversary, and a day-long birthday party is set for September 24. On the schedule are naturalistled activities on Diablo Lake and

local trails, tours of the facility and a picnic and barbecue ($5 suggested donation for food). Martin suggests coming for the picnic and staying for one of the institute’s most popular offerings, the Sourdough Speaker Series. The first presentation of the fall takes place September 24-25 and features local chef and author Debra

Daniels-Zeller. Installments in the series include dinner, an after-dinner presentation and overnight lodging, followed by breakfast and a number of guided hikes or canoe trips the next day. A full schedule of this fall’s speakers is available at www. ncascades.org/speakerseries. One other sure-to-be popular

class on the schedule is October 29’s day program on Northwest mushrooms. “That time of year, the forests are the stars of the show,” Martin said. The workshop is always a popular one, and tends to fill up early. “There’s so much variety to explore.” For more information on NCI, visit www.ncascades.org.

CLASSES THAT COVER ALL THE BASES AND THE BASICS TO BOOT With snow

still covering most trails above 4,000 feet, the popular class this year at the Bellingham REI was bike maintenance. Backpacking and hiking classes run a close second during the summer and fall, according to outreach coordinator Pat Kennedy. As a co-op, offering free or lowcost classes is a core part of REI’s mission. “The classes are designed to educate and inspire people in outdoor recreation,” Kennedy said. Classes on the basics – biking, backpacking, navigation and showshoeing, for example – will always be found on the schedule. However, that schedule is continually expanding. The store recently held its first-ever outdoor photography class, and Kennedy is “always looking for some outside presenters or presenters within REI.” “People are always excited to come

in and hear about what other people did for a trip,” he said. In addition to a full schedule of classes and clinics, REI sponsors or helps coordinate a variety of service projects in the region. Many of those planned for the summer had been canceled or moved. As fall sets in, though, Kennedy expects to see more on the docket. More people are in school and in the volunteering mindset, and the conditions are just right for plans to take hold and grow. With fall and winter on the horizon, Kennedy expects to see more interest in lowland service projects and, soon, snowshoeing. “Snowshoeing’s probably our most popular class in the wintertime,” Kennedy said. “It’s so accessible.” Check the Bellingham REI event calendar at www.rei.com/stores/65.

PHOTOS BY JULIE TOOMEY

PHOTO BY KARI NUEMEYER

NCI CELEBRATES ITS 25TH YEAR

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ward down the river. We followed the commands of our guide as she yelled, “Paddle, paddle!” and off we went through the first set of rapids. Crashing down the river was exhililarating – and very wet. Although Wild and Scenic offers less challenging and calmer trips, this one was not one of them. We paddled through a series of rapids, most of which were Class III with one Class IV thriller. My favorite was Turtle Rapid where we had to thread our way between two rocks shaped like a turtle. The water was frigid and every rapid we encountered gave us a shock of cold as it cascaded over us. Midway through the trip we stopped on a nice warm river bank past a rapid called “Postcard,” named for its stunning view of Mount Baker. Alyssa prepared a delicious lunch for us as we sat in our wetsuits, drying out in the warm August sun. After we stilled our hunger pangs with turkey sandwiches and guacamole, we stretched out and enjoyed the afternoon. We started the second half of the trip feeling like seasoned pros, totally ready for whatever came our way.

s Hard to believe that fan palms once grew in the Mt. Baker foothills. 14 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

What we didn’t expect, however, is what laid ahead of us around the next river bend. As we approached a large log that had fallen halfway over the river about ten feet above us, the unexpected happened. Upfront someone suddenly yelled, “Bear!” To our left, we saw a small brown bear loping along the river bank. As we neared the fallen log, the bear jumped onto it and ran towards the other side. Halfway across, it realized the log didn’t go the whole way across. Turning around with its back to us, the bear headed back the way it had come. Just as we were about to pass under the tree, it saw us. It’s hard to say who was more startled – the bear or us. It was only eight feet high directly above us. We all sat in shock watching the bear and hoping it wasn’t going to fall off the tree into our raft. Thankfully, the bear booked it back to shore and disappeared into the forest. Flabbergasted, we all looked at each other and broke into laughter and babbled over what we had just experienced. Our guide said she had never seen a bear on the river before. The rest of the raft trip was powered with an incredible rush of adrenaline and euphoria. It was a great end to an incredible day. If you want to go rafting, you’ll have to move fast as the season might be coming to an end. High water levels have allowed the raft companies to run trips through September but there’s no telling how much longer they can do so. If you want to raft in the shadow of Mt. Baker, do it now or wait until next year.

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PHOTO BY ANDREW GRUBB

s Rushing down the river ...

PHOTO BY ANDREW GRUBB

With college

on the East Coast once again beckoning, my incredible summer at home in the Northwest was coming to a close, and our family decided to end it with an adventure. An adventure was surely what we got. Going river rafting with Wild and Scenic Adventures (www.wild andscenic.com) on the Nooksack River in the Mt. Baker foothills was definitely the highlight of our summer. We met at Wild and Scenic’s headquarters in Glacier and were introduced to Alyssa, who would be guiding our raft down the 8-mile stretch of powerful rapids. The river levels were still high due to the amount of snowmelt after a La Niña winter of extreme snowfall in the North Cascades. According to our guide, the Nooksack River is one of the steepest in Washington state. Following a safety demonstration (complete with advice on what to do if we fell out: Do Not Let Go Of The Safety Rope!), we climbed into the raft. We barely had time to check out the breathtaking scenery before the water caught us and pushed us west-

BY ALEXANDRA GRUBB

PHOTO BY GRADY MCCOMBS

LOOK OUT FOR BEARS!

s A wet but happy crew. Guide Alyssa, rear, Alexandra Grubb, left.

PHOTO BY ANDREW GRUBB

PHOTO BY ANDREW GRUBB

PHOTO BY GRADY MCCOMBS

Above, photo of Tour de Whatcom riders by Tim Chandonnet Below, photo of Dylan Hart by Meghan Hill

Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 15

16 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

Left and above, photos by Brad Walton Below, photo by Gene Davis

PHOTO BY TIM CHANDONNET

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grizzly bear recovery can happen in the North Cascades. “It’s such a big area and such a wild area that you always have to have hope that there are more out there,� Scott said. “We wouldn’t be doing the work we’re doing if we believed that they were gone.� Scott said “Most grizzly bears will generally stay away from humans, but people need to be humble when they go into wild areas. With these bears, you need to pay attention when you go into their domain,� adding, “It’s being aware is what it comes down to. If we’re aware, we protect animals and ourselves.� The North Cascades is the perfect habitat for grizzly bears because of the large wild areas and the variety of food available. Their diet includes fish, white bark pine nuts, skunk cabbage and berries. While grizzlies tend to thrive in the wildest of areas, the bears do not necessarily need wilderness untouched by humans, Scott said. Glacier National Park in Montana has about 900 bears and is one of the most heavily recreated parks in the country. Grizzlies are considered an umbrella species, the conservation of which also benefits hundreds of other species. Because the bears are such habitat generalists, saving wild spaces for them means saving wild spaces for many other animals. “When we protect bears, we provide an insurance policy for many other animals,� Scott said. The bears were first listed as a

YOUR Y OU UR

Clark and Meriwether Lewis made their historic trek across the United States to the West Coast, grizzly bear populations were estimated to be between 50,000 and 100,000, with a range that stretched from Alaska to the border of Mexico. Now 200 years later, the grizzly bear population has dwindled to about 90 in the Pacific Northwest. The numbers are even fewer in the North Cascades ecosystem, with the most recent estimate being 20 in a 9,500square-mile area. “They’re out there, but verified sightings are few and far between,� said Joe Scott, the international programs director with Bellinghambased Conservation Northwest. So when word spread among the conservation community that a hiker, Joe Sebille, had photographed a grizzly bear in North Cascades National Park last year, Scott and his colleagues were understandably a little excited. The photo turned out to be the first confirmed sighting of a grizzly bear on U.S. side of the North Cascades since 1997. While verified sightings of grizzlies are always important, Scott said the significance of the sighting depends on what place that individual bear has in the North Cascades population. Researchers cannot tell from the photo whether the bear is part of a new population in the area or one of the last remaining. Though bear numbers are dwindling, Scott and his colleagues remain hopeful that meaningful

federal endangered species in the early 1990s. All of North Cascades National Park and parts of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Wenatchee-Okanogan National Forests were declared a grizzly bear recovery zone, the second largest zone in the U.S. “Grizzly bears could be ignored into extinction in this area, so people need to involve themselves in environmental groups that advocate for animals,� Scott said. “What’s good for bears and other animals is good for people.� For Scott, seeing a grizzly or other large carnivore in the wild is a life-changing experience he wants to be able to share with future generations. “You see some of these wonders and you think, ‘My God.’ We live on an awesome planet with a richness that’s incomparable,� Scott said. “It’s our responsibility to pass that richness on to our children and theirs. Every time we lose one of these animals, we impoverish our planet and those who come after us.� For more info, visit www. conservationnw.org or www.bear info.org. To report a grizzly sighting, call 360/734-6060.

X

Jeremy Schwartz has been on the earth for a meager 24 transits around the sun, but has tried to make the most of his time. When not taking in a 1950s sci-fi movie at the Pickford, he can be found looking for a good hike for the weekend.

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For Your Bookshelf A selection of titles from The Mountaineers

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The walls have been paint-

BACKCOUNTRY SKI & SNOWBOARD ROUTES OREGON by Christopher Van Tilburg Available October $18.95 The first guidebook in a new series from Mountaineers Books, the book describes nearly 100 of the best mountain routes for winter backcountry seekers. While many routes are geared toward intermediate and expert riders, there are also routes for those going into the backcountry for the first time. It also includes routes for Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Muir Snowfield in Washington. Sections describe avalanche safety, best resources, gear, Oregon backcountry laws, and routes by best season and skill level.

THE PACIFIC CREST TRAILSIDE READER, OREGON & WASHINGTON: Adventure, History, and Legend on the Long-Distance Trail Edited by Rees Hughes, Corey Lewis Available October $19.95 Exploring the people, places, and history of the Pacific Crest Trail that stretches 2,600 miles from Mexico to Canada, The Pacific Crest Trailside Reader compiles short excerpts from classic works of regional writing and boot-tested stories from the trail. The heart of the anthology are the real trail tales. Readers will find historical accounts of such events as Moses Schallenberger's winter on Donner Pass and pioneer efforts like the old Naches Road that ended up creating access to today's trails; Native American myths and legends and selections from highly-regarded environmental writers such as Mary Austin, John Muir, and Barry Lopez.

By Hank Lentfer Available October $16.95 Hank Lentfer listened to cranes passing over his home in Alaska for 20 years before bothering to find out where they were headed. On a very visceral level, he didn't want to know. After all, cranes gliding through the skies are the essence of wildness. A former wildlife biologist and longtime conservationist, Lentfer had accepted that not much could be done to stop clear cuts, or afffect climate change, or ensure that the cranes would always appear. He had no idea that following the paths of cranes would lead him towards his deepest fears: parenthood, responsibility, and actions of hope in a frustrating and warming world.

THE URBAN FARM HANDBOOK: City-Slicker Resources for Growing, Raising, Sourcing, Trading, and Preparing What You Eat

WILDERNESS & TRAVEL MEDICINE: A Comprehensive Guide, Adventure Medical Kits

THE CLIMBING DICTIONARY: Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms & Lingo By Matt Samet, illustratrated by Mike Tea Available Now $14.95 In this hilarious yet authoritative illustrated lexicon of climbing terms and slang, former Climbing Editor-in-Chief Matt Samet has compiled a reference of more than 650 terms used by climbers and mountaineers around the world.

20 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

By Annette Cottrell & Joshua McNichols Available October $24.95 More than just a few ideas about gardening and raising chickens, The Urban Farm Handbook uses stories, charts, grocery lists, recipes, and calendars to inform and instruct. As busy urbanites who have learned how to do everything from making cheese and curing meat to collaborating with neighbors on a food bartering system, the authors share their own food journeys along with those of local producers and consumers who are changing the food systems in the Pacific Northwest.

thing different,” she said. Most people sitting with O’Connell at the bakery would simply offer to help after they heard her describing the work that needed to be done. Before she knew it, O’Connell had an army of volunteers ready to put a new face on the restaurant. “It was pretty darn incredible,” Court Anderson said. Graham’s Restaurant has long been the focal point of the town because it’s smack-dab in the center of the community. No other establishment in Glacier offers the opportunity to come in after work and just hang out with a few friends and talk about the day. “We knew Katie needed all the help she could get, and we were there to step up,” Court said. “We all wanted our neighborhood bar back.” Glacier needs every shop and restaurant in the town to stay open to keep the community attractive to tourists who are its biggest source of revenue, Court said, adding Graham’s Restaurant is part of what makes Glacier unique. Rebecca said Graham’s Restaurant has gone through multiple transformations over the decades but has always been a major part of the Glacier community. With hallmarks of the building’s storied past hanging on the walls, the restaurant is also the closet thing Glacier has to a historical museum, she added. “On the first night the doors were opened to the public again, it was so wonderful looking around at our refreshed surroundings with all the beaming smiles on customers’ faces as well as the Graham’s staff,” Rebecca said. “There is such a sense of ownership in the place.” With Graham’s operating with a new look, a new attitude, and a new menu featuring local food, O’Connell said she’s looking forward to many a busy night as Glacier’s newest business owner. Graham’s Restaurant is located at 9989 Mt. Baker Highway and is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more info, call 360/5993663 or visit www.grahams restaurant.com.

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PHOTO BY JACK WAYTZ

by Eric Weiss Available February $15.95 First published in 1992, Wilderness & Travel Medicine has been a staple of the emergency first-aid kits sold worldwide by Adventure Medical Kits. Now Mountaineers Books and Adventure Medical Kits have partnered to release an updated, standalone reference for anyone who ventures away from civilization. Topics include CPR, shock, and fractures to head, eye, and dental injuries, poisonous reactions, frostbite, hypothermia, heat illness, and more.

FAITH OF CRANES: Finding Hope and Family in Alaska

ed, the dust has been cleared out and one interior wall has been removed. Hours and hours of labor have been poured into reopening Graham’s Restaurant in Glacier, and new owner Katie O’Connell cannot thank the community enough for its support. O’Connell added a pool table in the space near the back of the restaurant and removed a wall to make the main dining area feel roomier. The new wooden beams that were installed as part of the ceiling came from the old Georgia Pacific warehouse on the Bellingham waterfront. The posts where the old wall used to be came from the old Glacier Creek Lodge across the street. Normally such extensive renovations cost thousands, but every hour of work and every stroke of a paintbrush was donated by members of the community. O’Connell said her neighbors in Glacier were nothing short of a godsend in getting her established in Graham’s. “There was a lot of love that was put into this place to get it open,” she said. After working for four years as a server, O’Connell decided to rent the space from Gary Graham and keep the lights burning after former restaurant owners Chris Collins and KuoYu Liang sought business opportunities elsewhere. Though O’Connell had worked as a server for 25 years in various spots up and down the Mt. Baker Highway, she had never run a restaurant herself. Here, too, O’Connell looked to the advice of other business owners in Glacier, especially Court and Rebecca Anderson, owners of Wake n’ Bakery. Rebecca said they gave O’Connell advice on the ins and outs of owning a small business and helped her understand the permitting process in Whatcom County. The Andersons offered their shop as a makeshift planning area for O’Connell during the renovation. Almost every morning for a good seven weeks, O’Connell would meet with others at Wake n’ Bakery and decide what jobs should be done that day. “Every day would be some-

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Mushroom fanciers prefer the damp because, well, life is always better with fungi (especially when sautÊed in butter and garlic). To advance public knowledge and spread the gospel of mushrooms, the NMA organizes an annual Wild Mushroom Show. This year’s program is set for October 16 from noon to 5 p.m. at Bellingham’s Bloedel Donovan Park. Visitors will enjoy beautifully arranged specimen tables, touch and feel exhibits for the entire family, displays on mushroom ecology, tasty samplings of locally grown sautÊed chantrelles – yum! – and even the occasional microscope for in-depth viewing. Curious guests often bring their own mushrooms for identification. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for students and seniors and free for children under 12. Perfectly situated in mushroom-

growing heaven, the NMA is an active organization of professional and amateur mycologists. Their informative website, www.northwestmushroomers.org, offers articles, expertise, membership and event information, and links to other like-minded groups. Because mushroom harvesting regulations are carefully controlled and can change yearly, the NMA also maintains a link to the most recent rulings. The “Washington State Personal Use Mushroom Harvesting Rules as of March 19, 2010,� can be downloaded at www.northwestmushroomers.org/ Documents/WashingtonMush roomRules2010.pdf. Note: In cases of suspected poisonings, the NMA advises victims to save a sample of the mushroom in question – even if the material has been regurgitated – and call the Poison Control Center immediately at 800/222-1222.

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reservations@mtbakerlodging.com Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 21

EVENTS

around the Mount Baker region

SEPT EMB ER

Skagit Flats Marathon: September 11, 8 a.m., Burlington-Edison High School. Meet at BurlingtonEdison High School for the full and half marathons. Both are flat, rural courses through Skagit Valley and are USATF certified. Info: www.skagitrunners.org.

Maple Falls Car Show: September 3, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., downtown Maple Falls. Car, truck and mo-

Coho Run 14k: Sunday, September 11, West Vancouver, BC. This fabulous run winds through Stan-

torcycle show ‘n shine, raffles, poker walk, live music, food and more. $10 per vehicle entry, free for spectators. Info: 800/709-7669 or reservations@mtbakerlodging.com.

ley Park and over Lion’s Gate Bridge, among other scenic spots. Info: www.runthenorthshore.com.

neighborhood walks. Info: www.nwtrekkers.org.

XTERRA Kelowna Duathalon/Triathalon: September 11, McCulloch Lake Rec Site, Kelowna, BC. Choose from a variety of triathalons and duathalons. Info: www.xterraokanagan.com/xterra-kelownarace-info.

Wooden Boat Festival: September 9-11, Port Townsend. Info: www.woodenboat.org.

MS Golf Challenge: September 12, Northview Golf & Country Club, Surrey, B.C. Info: www.ms-

Bellingham Walking Festival: September 9-10. Two days of waterfront and friendly Bellingham

Mount Baker Club Hike: Saturday, September 10, Cow Heaven. Cows made it up here – so can you. A long and challenging hike, 4,500 feet of elevation gain. Info: www.mountbakerclub.org or Paul at 360/734-1409.

Hike Cougar Divide: September 10, Bellingham. Info: www.mountbakerwild.org, call Renetta at 360/398-8939 for Bellingham meeting place/time and to RSVP. San Juan Orca Challenge: September 10, Washington Park, Anacortes. Fundraiser with paddling races of either 6 or 16 miles. Info: www.soundrowers.org. Shore to Shore: September 10, Lake Chelan. Marathon, half-marathon, 10k, and marathon relay. Info: www.runwenatchee.com.

Mount Robson Marathon 2011: September 10, Valemount, B.C. Info: www.mountrobson marathon.ca.

South Fork Nooksack River Canoe Clean-up: September 10, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Paddle down the South Fork of the Nooksack and remove litter from the riverbanks. Some canoes and life jackets provided. Registration required. Info: www.n-sea.org or 360/715-0283.

Trek Dirt Series Mountain Bike Camp: September 10-11, Whistler, B.C. World-class instructional camps for beginner, intermediate, and advanced riders. Info: www.dirtseries.com. RBC GranFondo Whistler: September 10 from Vancouver to Whistler, B.C. Enjoy a dedicated cycling lane from downtown Vancouver to Whistler, fully supported. Info: www.RBCGran FondoWhistler.com

North American Rogaining Championships: September 10-11, Kamloops, B.C. Info: www. orienteeringbc.ca/sage.

Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K: September 10, 8:30 a.m., Bellingham. Enjoy running or walking a beautiful 9.3-mile course along Bellingham Bay. Food and live music after. Info: www.cob.org/races or www.fairhavenrunners.com. Whatcom County Farm Tour: September 10, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Enjoy wagon rides, food and drink samples, animal petting and more. Info: 360/647-7093.

Bike MS WA: September 10, 7:30 a.m., Mount Vernon. A two-day supported ride through Skagit Valley. Info: www.bikemsnorthwest.org

Festival 542: September 10-11, Glacier, Maple Falls and Mt. Baker Ski Area. A challenging mountain trail run from Mount Baker Ski Area to Artist’s Point. Also includes bike ride of 24.5, 50, 100, or 150 miles. No day-of registration. Info: www.festival542.com.

golfchallenge.ca

Trek Tri-Island: September 16-19, Lopez, Orcas and San Juan islands. Join the American Lung Association of the Mountain Pacific in its fight for air by participating in a three-day fundraising ride. Info: 206/441-5100 ext. 23 or www.trektriisland.com. Diablo Downtime: September 16-18, North Cascades Learning Center Campus. Tranquil getaway in the North Cascades. Cost ranges from $245 to $485 depending on occupancy. Info and registration: www.ncascades.org. 10th Anniversary Great Lake Walk and Ultra Marathon 56 km: September 17, Cowichan Lake, B.C. Walk or run. Info: www.greatlakewalk.com.

Innovative Fitness Canuck Place Adventure Challenge: September 17, Cultus Lake, B.C. Kayak, bike, and hike to support Canuck Place Children’s Hospice. Info: www.adventurechallenge.ca. Mount Baker Club Bike Excursion: September 17, Mount Baker. Bike Canada’s Mayne Island. Info: Ron, 360/733-1183.

Mountaineers Lodge Weekend (Mount Baker Club): September 16-17, Mount Baker. Enjoy two breakfasts and a Saturday dinner and hike right from the lodge. If you don’t want to stay at the lodge, join for day hikes. Info: www.mountaineers.org/lodge/baker. Co-operators Dare to Care 5K Walk/Run and 10K Challenge 2011: September 17, 9 a.m., Abbotsford, B.C. Info: www.runningroom.com.

Freedom Run 5K, 10K, and Kids Run: September 17, 9 a.m., Abbotsford, B.C. Run to support education for Afghan girls. Info: www.runningroom.com. Valhalla Pure Outfitters Nanaimo Women’s Cup: September 17, Nanaimo, B.C. Info: www.gorowandpaddle.org/events.

PRCC Length of the Lake: September 17, 7 a.m., Vernon, B.C. Info: www.pentictonoutrigger.com. Bellingham Traverse: September 17, starts at 8 a.m. at The Farmers Market, ending at Boundary Bay. Go solo, grab a friend, or form a whole team for this fun race! Celebrate the 10th anniversary of Bellingham Traverse with a cold beer after the race. Info: www.bellinghamtraverse.com. Innovative Fitness Canuck Place Adventure Challenge: September 17, Deep Cove, North Vancouver, B.C. Kayak, bike and hike to support Canuck Place Children’s Hospice. Info: www. adventurechallenge.ca. BMX BC Cup: September 17-18, Surrey, B.C. Info: www.cyclingbc.net 5th Annual 7 Summits Bike and Hike Challenge: September 17, Wells, B.C. Info: www.white gold.ca/biking.html.

Mount Baker Club Cascade Pass Hike: September 18, Bellingham. 7.5 miles round trip, moderate, 1,800-foot elevation gain. Group will meet at 8 a.m., car pool fee of $10. Bring sunscreen and insect repellant. Info: Cliff, 360/647-9350. The Terry Fox Run: September 18, 9:30 a.m., Stanley Park, Vancouver, B.C. Dogs on leash welcome. Info: www.terryfox.org. Chuckanut Century Bicycle Ride: September 18, starting and finishing at Boundary Bay Brewery, Bellingham. Routes range from 25 to 124 miles, money raised supports the Whatcom Hospice Foundation. Info: www.chuckanutcentury.org.

Mount Baker Club Yellow Astor Butte Hike: September 21, Bellingham. Round trip 6 miles with a 2,100-foot elevation gain. Moderate except for the last section, which is steep. Info: Jo, 360/7345922.

s Robert Sarazin Blake and Giants Causeway were one of many performances during the 2011 Subdued Stringband Jamboree held August 13 to 14. More than 1,200 music lovers attended the jamboree. Above, left to right: Cayley Schmid on fiddle, Clea Taylor on cello, David Lofgren on bodhran and Robert Sarazin Blake on guitar. Mark your calendars now – next year's Subdued Stringband Jamboree is scheduled for August 10 to 11, 2012.

22 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

White Rock Food and Wine Festival: September 22, 6 to 10 p.m., Eaglequest Coyote Creek Golf Course, Surrey, B.C. Local and international wine and gourmet local food. Info: 604/574-2964. JDRF Ride for Diabetes Research: September 23. Info: www.jdrf.ca.

PHOTO BY APRIL MILES

PHOTO BY APRIL MILES

North Cascades PCT: September 18, 6 a.m., Mazama. Run a section between Rainy and Hart’s passes. Open, alpine ridges in the heart of the North Cascades. Info: www.rainshadowrunning.com or 509/846-5019.

The Freedom Run: September 24 in five B.C. locations: Vernon, Kamloops, Victoria, Nanaimo and Castlegar. Come help support diabetes research. Info: www.thefreedomrun.ca. PHOTO BY APRIL MILES

Whidbey Island Kite Festival: September 24, 8 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., September 25, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Camp Casey, Coupeville. Featuring impressive ground and air displays of color and imagination. Activities include kids' kitemaking, beginning sport kite lessons and sport kite demonstrations. Info: www.whidbeykites.org/schedule.php.

Tour de Whidbey: September 24, check in starts at 7 a.m., Greenbank Farms and Coupeville High School. The Tour de Whidbey is a major fundraiser for the WGH Foundation, supported by the Auxiliary of Whidbey General Hospital, which assists in providing vital health care to the community. Choose a 10, 30, 40, 50 or 100 mile bike race. Info: http://www.whidbeygen.org/whidbeygeneralhospitalfoundation/tourdewhidbey. American Alps Challenge: September 24. The relay begins at Washington Pass and ends at Marblemount, including 67 miles of biking, running and kayaking. Event is limited to first the 100 teams to register. Info: www.americanalps.org.

Mind Over Mountain Race: September 24, Cumberland, B.C. Sprint adventure race over 30 or 50 kilometers of exciting B.C. terrain. Info: www.mindovermountain.com. San Juan Island Quest: September 24, Roche Harbor. Sea kayak, trail run, bike, trek, navigate. Go solo or join teams of two, three or four people. Info: www.sanjuanislandquest.com.

s The Mt. Baker Rhythm & Blues Festival brought together more than 2,000 music lovers during the three-festival this summer. Amsterdam vocalist Ana Popovic (r) sings to a packed crowd. Popovic was one of more than a dozen performers at the event. Next year will be the 17th annual Mt. Baker Rhythm & Blues Festival. It will be held August 3-5, 2012.

Mount Baker Club Hannegan Pass Hike: September 25, Bellingham. Outstanding views all the way. Moderate to hard hike, 2,000-foot elevation gain. Info: 360/647-9350. Kootenay Krusher Bike Race: September 25, Invermere, B.C. Info: www.nipika.com.

Oyster Run: September 25, Anacortes. The largest motorcycle run of the Pacific Northwest is celebrating 30 years. Info: www.oysterrun.org/index.html.

Word on the Street: September 25, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Library Square and CBC Plaza, Vancouver. Enjoy a full day of reading and writing events and activities! Word lovers will find author readings, writing and publishing exhibits, musical entertainment, roving performers, children’s activities, and much more. Mount Baker Club Social: September 27, 6 p.m., Bellingham. Potluck dinner at Bloedel Donovan Park Beach Pavilion. Bring a dish to share, a place setting and a beverage. After-dinner speaker will be local author Craig Romano. Romano’s new books are “Backpacking Washington” and “Day Hike Columbia River Gorge.” Info: 360/734-5726.

National Inside Ride Tour: September 28, Victoria. Info: www.nationalinsideridetour.com.

O C TO B E R Baker Lake 50K: October 1, 8 a.m., Bellingham. A gorgeous run of 28 miles on trail, 3.5 miles on gravel/paved road. Info: www.bakerlake50k.com, 360/387-3276.

Skagit Valley Festival of Family Farms: October 1-2 at 14 different farms around Skagit Valley. Educational exhibits, farm tours, harvest markets, free samples, kids' activities, corn and hay mazes, animal exhibits, pumpkin patches, shopping, scenic tours and more. Info: www.festivaloffamilyfarms.com.

Whatcom Artist Studio Tour: October 1-2, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. A free event opening the creative spaces of Whatcom County's best artists. Info: www.studiotour.net. Aglow: A Shimmering Evening for the Whatcom Museum: October 1, 5:30 p.m., Whatcom Museum Lightcatcher Building, Bellingham. Gala dinner auction featuring fine wines and unique experiences. Info: 360/778-8939. Run like a Girl Half Marathon: October 1, 9 a.m., Bellingham. Proceeds support Girls on the Run. Info: www.runlikeagirlbellingham.com. Race for the End: October 2, 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., Bloedel Donovan Park, Bellingham. Proceeds benefit survivors of domestic violence. Info: calendar.bellingham.org. Race for Education: October 8, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., Bellingham. 5k run/walk to raise funds for struggling local students. Info: www.whatcomraceforeducation.org. Klicks Mountain Bike Duathalon: October 9, 11 a.m., Bellingham. Off-road duathalon for teams or individuals on the trails of Lake Padden. Info: www.cob.org/races Lake Padden Trail Classic 13.1 & Anna’s Lake Walk: October 22, 9 a.m. and 1 p.m., Bellingham. The half marathon is within forested trails on Lake Padden at 9 a.m. with Anna’s Walk following at 1 p.m. Info: www.annabrulottememorial.com.

PHOTO BY APRIL MILES

BIA Pumpkin Festival: October 22, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Marine Drive at West Beach on White Rock Beach. Local residents and merchants compete to carve the most original Halloween pumpkin. Bring the family for free farm fun with hay rides, pumpkin carving and live entertainment throughout the day. Info: 604/536-4958. Vancouver Snow Show: October 29-30, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m, Vancouver Convention Center. Ski and snowboard retailers and pros, mountain ski resorts, training associations and travel information exhibitors.

s Kyle Silves is log rolling while Jeremy George watches from the water during the log rolling competition at this year's Deming Logging Show. More than 9,000 people attended the show. The 2012 Deming Log Show is set for June 9 and 10.

For events at higher elevations (over 4,000 feet), check with event organizers to make sure the trail is melted out and safe. Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 23

PHOTO BY APRIL MILES

Bellingham Bay Marathon, Half-Marathon and 5K: September 25, 7:30 a.m., Bellingham. Many runners have said this is "the most beautiful marathon in the Pacific Northwest." Info: www.bellinghambaymarathon.org.

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For hunters in Western Washington, the transition into fall marks the beginning of the hunting season and stirs a deep excitement for the coming months. The thrill of stalking a mature bull elk through a dense stand of timber is something that calls to a very primal part of each sportsman. This experience transcends generation and gender gaps and can help both the seasoned hunter and the young neophyte develop a sense of place and appreciation for the outdoors that is difficult to emulate through other pursuits. Fortunately for those of us who reside in the Pacific Northwest, the diverse opportunities for pursuing game animals make it a very accessible experience. Typically, most hunters are taught by older relatives and family members. For young hunters this can be a very formative stage in their lives and, given proper guidance, can help them appreciate and respect the resources that are so dear to all of us. For those of us not afforded that opportunity, the process is a bit more interesting – as it was in my case. My first hunting experience in Washington began on the Olympic Peninsula pursuing Roosevelt elk. I had a colleague there, and the pictures of big bulls standing in his yard convinced me that bringing one down would be an easy task requiring minimal effort. I had my first inkling of doubt when I mentioned my destination to a friend and got a skeptical “good luck� in return. I chose to ignore his comment and enlisted a friend to come along. We headed out to

Quinault and arbitrarily chose a spot to set up camp. From that point on we spent the better part of a week being slapped around by trees and bushes bent on destroying our every vestige of hope. We traipsed around the entire area, climbing up and down every cliff we came across, and we didn’t see a single thing. We were cold, wet and miserable. A coin toss could have decided whether we’d go home and sell all the gear we’d just bought or whether we’d stick it out a while longer. And that’s when it happened. A big cow elk stepped out about 80 yards in front of us through the only clear sight lane in all of that dense forest. Misery was forgotten in the rush of adrenaline and the feeling of pursuing such a large animal. I remember the thrill to this day. We didn’t manage to get the cow as she was out of range, but ending that trip unsuccessfully was one of the most rewarding outdoor experiences I have had, and it has shaped every other encounter since then. Next Step If this tale of thwarted triumph has spurred your interest in hunting, there are a number of resources that can help get you off to a better start than I had. The first step for all beginning hunters is to take a hunter safety course, which will introduce you to basic safety protocol and provide you with a framework for the ethical issues that surround the humane harvest of a game animal. These courses are available through the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW), and a full Continued on page 26

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listing of class types and locations can be found on its website (www.wdfw.wa.gov/hunting). Most classes fill up quickly, so it is wise to register in the spring if you plan on hunting in the fall. While this class is highly recommended for all hunters, it is a legal requirement for every hunter born after 1971. It’s almost too late to complete a class in time for early season openers, but new hunters are in luck this year. The WDFW recently instituted a program that allows a one-time deferral of the hunter safety education requirement with the provision that the hunter is accompanied by another experienced license holder at all times. Information on this deferral can be found online (www.wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/hunter ed/he_deferral.html) or by contacting your local WDFW office. The deferral requires a $20 application fee and typically has a two-week turnaround time. After you complete the hunter safety course, you’ll be eligible to purchase hunting licenses online or at your local sporting goods store. This is also a good time to get a rules and seasons pamphlet and bone up on the laws governing the game animal you wish to pursue. This includes ensuring that the areas you hunt, the times that you hunt, and the equipment and method you employ to harvest an animal fall within the legal guidelines set by the WDFW. It is important to have a good understanding of these laws because both the

legal repercussions and the effect it can have on wildlife management efforts can be profound. Where to go? Once you’re confident in your ability to hunt safely and legally, you’re probably going to ask: Where do I go to hunt? This is, as they say, the big question. Talk with local hunters and wildlife management officials. Solicit the advice of every friend and acquaintance with a background in hunting. The WDFW also provides a GoHunt application on its website at www.wdfw.wa.gov/ mapping/gohunt that displays statistics for individual hunting areas. This can be a great resource in your research process, along with the Hunting Washington website (www.hunting-washington.com), which has a very robust forum allowing you to interact with other hunters who are usually willing to help. After you’ve done your homework, it’s time to head for the field. There is really no better way to increase your likelihood of successful hunting than spending time in the woods before the season. Pre-season scouting will help you get familiar with the area you choose to hunt, and it will prepare you physically for the rigors of being afield in the rugged terrain of the Pacific Northwest. For experienced hunters there is still more that we can do to both further our sport and allow us to spend more time afield. The WDFW offers a Master Hunter Certification that emphasizes creating more informed and conscientious hunters who understand the importance of wildlife management and are able to promote ethical pursuit of game animals to both landowners and non-hunters alike. This program requires extensive training and certification that is outlined online at www.wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/masterhunter.

X

Brian McCall is an avid outdoorsman and spends as much time as possible exploring the range of opportunities available in the Pacific Northwest. When he is not doing that, he can be found tinkering on one of his ill-conceived projects or planning another adventure.

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26 Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011

September

October

November 15

Blue Mountains

1

Statewide

1

COUGAR DEER Archery

15

end dates vary to March 31, 2012

Westside

1

18/23

Eastside (White-tailed)

1

18/23

Eastside (Mule Deer)

1

15/18/23

Muzzleloader

10

2 15

31

Mule Deer

15

23 / 28

White-tailed

15

23 / 28

Muzzleloader

Modern Firearm

23

8

/ 15

23/24

8

/

17

5

end dates vary

20

19

Westside

6

18

23

8

Eastside

6

18

23

7 / 15

Westside

1

7

Eastside

1

7

Westside Eastside

29

15

29

6 / 15

23 23

5

/ 31

15

8

20/23

Black-tailed

Archery

/

23 24

Statewide

Modern Firearm

ELK

December

15

Eastside 1

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This is a partial listing of hunting seasons in Washington state. It is not intended to provide an authoritative guide to legal hunting in 2011. ALWAYS check local hunting regulations before you set out. For up-to-date information on hunting in Washington, visit wdfw.wa.gov/hunting. For current hunting information and seasons in British Columbia, visit www.env.gov.bc.ca/fw.

Map Directory

6 IL CAFFE RIFUGIO 5415 Mt. Baker Hwy, Deming • 592-2888

1 BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL 974 Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2200

7 NORTH FORK BREWERY 6186 Mt. Baker Hwy, Deming • 599-2337

2 ACME GENERAL STORE Hwy 9, Acme • 595-2146

8 BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS

3 EVERYBODY’S STORE Hwy 9, Van Zandt • 592-2297 4 DODSON’S IGA 3705 Mt. Baker Hwy, Nugent’s Corner 592-5351 5 KELLEY INSURANCE 103 W. Main St., Everson • 966-3732 619 Cherry St., Sumas • 988-2462

10 MAPLE FUELS WASH-A-TON Corner of Mt. Baker Hwy & Silver Lake Rd. Maple Falls • 599-2222 11 CROSS ROADS GROCERY & VIDEO 7802 Silver Lake Rd., Maple Falls • 599-9657 12 INN AT MT. BAKER 8174 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 877/567-5526

7425 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-1017 8 FROSTY INN RESTAURANT

13 WINTER CREEK B&B 9253 Cornell Creek, Glacier • 599-2526

7461 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2594

14 SCOTT’S SKI SERVICE 9935 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-WAXX

9 MT. BAKER LODGING 7463 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 599-2463

155 MT. BAKER VIEW GUESTHOUSE 6920 Central Ave., Glacier • 599-2155

10 SLIDE MOUNTAIN BAR & GRILL 7471 Mt. Baker Hwy, Maple Falls • 656-5833

Mt. Baker Highway Mile Posts

Mile 1: Junction of I-5 and Mt. Baker Hwy., Sunset Drive. Mile 3: View of Coast Mountain Range in Canada (left). Mile 8: Whatcom County Parks & Recreation Dept. (Right). The headquarters offers a rest area with picnic tables, restrooms and a view of Mt. Baker, elevation 10,778 feet. 360/7332900. Mile 9: Deming Logging Show – second weekend in June. Two-day show: log rolling, tree climbing and axe throwing. Nooksack River Bridge – great fishing spots can be found. Mile 10: Community of Nugent's Corner. Groceries, gas, bank (ATM), bakery, cafe, crafts and other services. Mile 11: U-pick berry farms (right and left). Strawberries in June, raspberries in July and blueberries in August. Christmas tree farms (right and left). Mount Baker Vineyards (left). Tasting room/gift shop open Wednesday through Sunday. Grape Stomp Festival in September. Mile 12: Community of Deming. Stewart Mountain – elev. 3,087 feet (right). Sumas Mountain – elev. 3,430 feet (left). Mile 14: Highway 9 South Junction (right). South to Van Zandt, Acme, Wickersham and Skagit Valley. Attractions: B&B, general store, mushroom farm and train ride. Nooksack River Forks (right). Nooksack River forks into three segments: the North Fork, which Mt. Baker Highway parallels; the Middle Fork, which heads southeast to the southern face of Mt. Baker; and the South Fork, which heads south into the Skagit Valley. Hwy. 9 follows the South Fork.

F IN D M O R E R ES O U R C ES AT

Mile 16: Mosquito Lake Road – Bald Eagle viewing spot (right). Dec. – Feb. Turn right onto Mosquito Lake Road, drive to the first bridge that crosses the North Fork Nooksack. Park on left shoulder of Mosquito Lake Road. Look for eagles. Mile 18: Community of Welcome (left). Grocery store, fire station, senior center and other services. Mile 21: Kendall Creek Hatchery (right). Turn right onto Fish Hatchery Road. The hatchery raises chinook, coho and chum salmon as well as steelhead, rainbow and cutthroat trout. Mile 22: Slide Mountain – elevation 4,884 feet (right). Named for a landslide on its north face that may have dammed up the Nooksack River in ancient times. Highway 547 North Junction/Kendall Road (left). North to Kendall, Peaceful Valley, Paradise Lakes, Columbia and Sumas. Gas, groceries, golf, tavern. Mile 23: Community of Kendall. Grocery store and gas (left). Mile 25: Community of Maple Falls, post office, pay phones, cabin rentals, lodging, restaurants, gas, groceries, liquor, library. Silver Lake Park, Silver Lake Road, 3.5 miles north (left). Park sits on 411 acres around Silver Lake. Mile 27: Farm stand (right). Fresh produce, gourmet foodstuffs. Mile 29: View of Nooksack River (right). Highway ascends a ledge overlooking the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Mile 30: Mt. Baker Scenic Turnout (right). Mile 33: Glacier – elev. 932 feet. Last community along the highway. Fire department, post office, library, general store, restaurants, snowboard shop, lodging, phones. Mile 34: Glacier Public Service Center (right). Open Memori-

16 HAIRSTREAM HAIR SERVICES 9970 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2443 17 WAKE ’N BAKERY 6903 Bourne St., Glacier • 599-1658 18 MILANO’S RESTAURANT 9990 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2863 19 GRAHAM’S STORE 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2665 19 GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT 9989 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-3663 20 CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA & BAR 10459 Mt. Baker Hwy, Glacier • 599-2511

W W W. M O UN T B A K ER E XP E R I E N C E . C O M

al Day to October. Rangers assist with hikes and camp planning, and issues permits. Restrooms, picnic area. 360/599-2714, www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs. Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Boundary National Forest Scenic Byway. Glacier Creek Road (Rd. #39) to Mt. Baker Vista (right). Mostly paved, 9.5 mile road leads to Mt. Baker view. Mile 36: Douglas Fir Campground (left). National forest camp built by the CCC in the 1930s. Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 877/444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Horseshoe Bend Trail (right). Access for guided river rafting tours. Washington State Sno-Park (left). Permit required for snow mobiling or cross-country skiing. Mile 37: Church Mountain – elevation 6,245 feet (left). High elevation trails on the southern slope are often the first in the area to open for summer hiking. Turnouts to view North Fork Nooksack River (right). Mile 40: Excelsior Group Camp (right). National Forest Campground. No water. Fee charged. Reservations only: 877/4446777 or at www.recreation.gov. Nooksack Falls, Wells Creek Road Road #33 (right). Take Wells Creek Road a half mile down to parking area and fenced viewpoint. Fall plummets 100 feet. Mile 41: Excelsior Pass Trail (left). Mile 43: North Fork Nooksack Research Natural Area (left). Established in 1937, this is a 1,400-acre preserve of old-growth Douglas Fir, Hemlock and Western Red Cedar. Mile 44: Nooksack River Viewpoint (right).

Mile 46: Twin Lakes Road (Road #3065) at Shuksan Highway Maintenance Sheds (left). Twin Lakes is not accessible until early to mid-August. Hannegan Pass Road (Road #32) (left). Popular cross-country skiing area in winter. Shuksan Picnic Area – Hannegan Pass Road (left). Tables, restroom, Nooksack River views. Mining cabin nearby. Silver Fir Campground (right). Fees charged. Reservations accepted: 877/444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov. Mile 47: Goat Mountain – elevation 6,891 feet. (N.E.). Summer grazing range for one of four bands of mountain goats. Mile 49: View Mt. Shuksan – elevation 9,038 feet. (East). Mile 50: View Mt. Sefrit – elevation 6,015 feet. (Southeast). Mile 52: Mt. Baker Ski area White Salmon Day Lodge (left). Mile 53: Entrance to Heather Meadows. Mile 55: Picture Lake (road forks – stay to the right). Picture Lake – elevation 4,100 feet, provides a postcard view of Mt. Shuksan – elev. 9,038 feet. Vista picnic area (right). Picnic area; no restrooms. Mile 56: Austin Pass Picnic Area (right). CCC-built area sits in a bowl-shaped valley with glorious views. Heather Meadows Visitor Center (right). Open mid-July to September. Mile 58: Artist Point – elev. 5,140 feet. (End of highway). Parking lot surrounded by Mt. Baker’s peak (south), Mt. Shuksan (east) and Table Mountain – elev. 5,628 feet.

Mount Baker Experience • Fall 2011 27

PHOTO BY TIM CHANDONNET

VISIT GLACIER!

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