Mount Baker Experience, Winter 2018 by Point Roberts Press

WINTER 2018

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

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WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE Special publication of The Northern Light PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar EDITOR Oliver Lazenby PUBLICATION DESIGN Doug De Visser

ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser ADVERTISING SALES Catherine Darkenwald • Janet McCall Molly Ernst • Judy Fjellman CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: Brad Andrew, Andy Basabe, Nick Belcaster, Jann Eberharter, Mallorie Estenson, Brandon Fralic, Beau Gaughran, Amy Gibson, Jason Griffith, Grant Gunderson, Jason Hummel, Dylan Luder, Audra Lee Mercille, Eric Mickelson, John Minier, Jefferson Morriss, Spencer Paxson, Chris Radcliffe, Evan Skoczenski, David Summers, Benjamin Whitney, Luca Williams EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is a quarterly outdoor recreation magazine for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps. Vol. XXXI, No. 4. Printed in Canada ©2017 POINT ROBERTS PRESS 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 TEL: 360/332-1777 NEXT ISSUE Spring 2018 • Out mid-February Ad reservation deadine: January 19 ON THE COVER Mattias Evangelista chases Eliel Hindert down a chute in the North Cascades. Grant Gunderson photo. WINTER 2018

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

urban snow

snowshoes and brews

5-day adventure race

bradANDREW

Brad Andrew is a Bellingham-based freelance action sports photographer. He spends his winters chasing the snow looking for the perfect spot to make the perfect image.

andyBASABE

COPY EDITOR Kara Spencer

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS MBE Winter 2017

Andy Basabe is an educator in Whatcom County. Some of his days are best for words, others for walking. Everyday is for eating.

nickBELCASTER Nick Belcaster is a Bellingham writer who traverses the Pacific Northwest on rack, rope, skins and boot tread – an ice axe in one hand and a fly rod in the other.

jannEBERHARTER Originally from Boise, Idaho, Jann Eberharter came to the Northwest to pursue a degree in visual journalism at Western Washington University and stayed for the loamy trails.

mallorieESTENSON Mallorie Estenson loves climbing. She is an alpine guide, writer and resident of Bellingham. While she’s happy climbing in the Cascades, she dreams of someday climbing remote rocks and mountains around the world.

brandonFRALIC

Based in Bellingham, Brandon Fralic writes about Pacific Northwest trails, ales and travel for a handful of regional publications. brandonfralic.com

beauGAUGHRAN Beau Gaughran is a Bellingham-based freelance photographer from Maine. He moved here last summer for the incredible whitewater, year-round splitboarding and mountain playgrounds where he practices his craft.

amyGIBSON

Amy Gibson loves learning about all the edible and medicinal plants she can find in Whatcom County.

jasonGRIFFITH Based in Mount Vernon, Jason Griffith is a fisheries biologist, member of Skagit Mountain Rescue, husband and father of two young boys. Accidents aren’t allowed when he heads to the hills with the Choss Dawgs.

grantGUNDERSON

One of the ski industry’s preeminent photographers, Grant Gunderson has shot for every major snow sports and outdoor publication worldwide. Grantgunderson.com

jasonHUMMEL

Jason Hummel is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades. Alpinestateofmind.com

dylanLUDER Dylan Luder, from Bellingham, has always had a passion for photography. He lives for northwest winters and resides in his shred van, which he shares with his cocker spaniel.

audra leeMERCILLE Audra Lee Mercille is a Pacific Northwest-based freelance adventurer. She found photography as a way to display her love and gratitude for the mountains and landscapes that inspire her.

EricMICKELSON Eric Mickelson is an outdoor photographer and restoration ecologist who is always willing to drop everything for a good adventure outside. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and daughter. ericmickelson.com

johnMINIER John Minier is Owner and Lead Guide at Baker Mountain Guides. Since 2004, he has worked across the western U.S. as a rock guide, alpine guide, ski guide, and avalanche instructor.

spencerPAXSON Spencer Paxson is a professional mountain biker and owner of a sports performance coaching business. He is a Northwest native who has traveled the world but loves the mountains of home the most. peakenergyco.com

evanSKOCZENSKI

Evan Skoczenski is a lifestyle and landscape photographer born in Bellingham. He spends almost all his time chasing light and the next adventure!

davidSUMMERS David Summers is addicted to altitude, business and adventure. Photographer, athlete, explorer, businessman. @davesummertimes

benWHITNEY Inspired by the allure of the North Cascades, Ben moved to Bellingham from Vermont this winter. He writes about people, place and community, and is excited to contribute to the creative wellspring that surrounds the alpine.

lucaWILLIAMS

Luca Williams is a certified rolfer in Glacier. She helps snowboarders, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts get aligned and out of pain. Website: lucasrolfing.com Blog: movingwithgravity.wordpress.com

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

WINTER2018 CIRCUMNAVIGATING MT. SHUKSAN IN MIDWINTER

SNOWSHOES AND BREWS

5 DAYS OF RACING

Snowshoe destinations and nearby libations

Local team at the adventure race championship

BANKED SLALOMS All the sudden, they’re everywhere

EDUCATION 10 AVALANCHE The professional/recreational split has arrived

YOU BEEPING? 18 ARE Beacon checking stations can tell you for sure

COCKTAILS 16 WINTER Hot spirits for the cold days ahead

A surprising technique for performing your best

20 HONE YOUR BALANCE

SNOWGLOBE EFFECT 17 THE The wonderland lurking above the valley

24 GALLERY Frozen, visually

31 CYCLOCROSS Meet Cascade Cross’s new director

36 POSTCARD From Catalonia’s clouded kingdom of climbing

BECKEY 44 FRED A tribute to the legend

GUIDE 48 GEAR Winter stuff for looking tough ATTACK 49 URBAN No handrail is safe

SUMMITS ON THE AIR Backcountry ham radio operators

A DAY 38 PHOTO A disposable camera and a winter with friends

BAKER MOUTH HOLE 40 MT. Put it in your mouth hole

COME TO ROOST

Winter eagle viewing in local river valleys

42 EVENTS Try something new

AND LODGING 43 DINING Where to eat and sleep

46 WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Publisher’s NOTE BY PAT GRUBB

e are possibly just a few days, at most weeks, from the beginning of the 2017/18 season. Local mountains have been hit with several snowstorms and everyone is ready to buckle up and hit the slopes. NOAA has updated its long-range forecast and is calling for another La Niña weather

pattern for the second year in a row. We love La Niñas – they mean higher precipitation and lower temperatures. Bring it on! Sad to note that mountaineer Fred Beckey passed away at the end of October, age 94. He had hundreds of first ascents under his belt and was the archtypical dirtbag climber – he lived for the ascents. When he wasn’t on a mountain, he wrote a bunch of books and guides on climbing, passing on his knowledge to following generations. The likes of him will not soon be seen again. We’ve got quite the line-up of stories and images to get your heart racing and body impatient to get outside to join the fun. Jason Griffith relates a mid-winter ski circumnavigation of Mt. Shuksan. Who says

summer and fall is the only time to do that? Andy Basabe explains that the Spaniards have a more relaxed approach to the outdoors – it begins with a leisurely breakfast and strong coffee. Feeling really energetic? Tag along with Spencer Paxton as he tells the story of a local adventure race team at its first world championship. Five nights and 460 miles later, the team staggered across the finish line, dirty, beat but triumphant. If you’ll be headed into the backcountry, it’s time to refresh your avalanche awareness skills. John Minier tells us there are big changes in avalanche education – there

now are advanced courses separately aimed at professionals as well as recreationalists. Avalanche knowledge is a ‘better safe than sorry’ requirement if you want to enjoy the backcountry. And, of course, there are lots of great photographs within these pages. Feel free to rip out your favorites and pin them to your wall for inspiration. You’ve got all winter to show your stuff. By the way, the Washington Newspaper Publishers Association awarded second place to the Mount Baker Experience in the lifestyle division and to our website - check it out!

2017

inner Award W

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Professional vs Recreational Goals Recreational backcountry travelers and avalanche professionals often have different goals requiring different skills. Aspiring avalanche professionals need to be able to forecast, track and manage avalanche hazards in the context of a ski area, guided group or other operation. For them, it’s vital to learn the science of avalanche formation and release, snowpack metamorphism and meteorology. Professionals need well-developed observational techniques and recording methods that adhere to industry standards. While these skills can help any backcountry traveler, they take years to become useful in the decision-making process and aren’t the most important thing for a recreational backcountry traveler. The average backcountry skier or snowboarder wants to better identify avalanche terrain, track avalanche problems, estimate consequences and mitigate hazards through terrain choice and decision making – things that don’t require an advanced snow science course.

Getting Started As before, anyone who wants to ski in avalanche terrain should start with the AIARE Level 1 avalanche course. The AIARE Level 1 offers a comprehensive introduction to avalanches, observational and decision-making techniques, terrain assessment and companion rescue. From there, continuing avalanche students must make a decision. Students analyze a snowpit. Photo courtesy of John Minier.

The split arrives in

avalanche education safety gets a little more specialized with professional and recreational tracks BY JOHN MINIER

or years, backcountry skiers and snowboarders with some avalanche training and a desire to learn more about the subject had a lack of options. For most recreational skiers with an American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) Level 1 course, the next option was an AIARE Level 2 course. That course tried to serve recreational backcountry travelers and aspiring avalanche professionals – guides, patrollers and avalanche forecasters – making it difficult to meet either group’s needs.

Big changes to avalanche education start this year. The long awaited professional-recreational split has arrived. With input from avalanche educators, the American Avalanche Association created new standards that reflect the split in recreational and professional avalanche education. The new AIARE Level 2 course has an emphasis on touring and decision-making that is more applicable for recreational backcountry travel. Aspiring avalanche professionals also get new curriculum that focuses on their needs, with more snow science.

Recreational Avalanche Training Recreational backcountry travelers have often wondered if a level 2 avalanche course is worth the time and cost. The answer now is yes. The recreational level 2 curriculum focuses less on standardized observations and recording methods. This frees up more time for touring, informal observations, group decision making, and of course, skiing and riding. The new course is three days instead of four. Avalanche rescue is now a stand-alone course rather than part of the curriculum. The AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite for the new AIARE Level 2 certificate, so in effect, completion of the level 2 still requires four days of training. The new AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course can be taken independently, but many providers will offer one immediately before the AIARE Level 2. The new AIARE Avalanche Rescue course will allow for a full day of advanced companion rescue training and include many opportunities to practice multiple-burial search techniques.

Professional Avalanche Training Students will begin their professional avalanche education with the Professional Avalanche Training 1 course (Pro 1). The AIARE Level 1 and the AIARE Avalanche Rescue Courses are prerequisites for the Pro 1. The curriculum is similar to the old AIARE Level 2, but allows more time for students to develop their standardized observational skills,

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

When the snow melts...

recording methods, and operational decision-making. The Pro 1 is five days long, concluding with an examination. Aspiring avalanche professionals will complete their training with the Professional Avalanche Training 2 course (Pro 2). The AIARE Pro 2 is designed to prepare students for a leadership role in an operational avalanche program. The Pro 2 replaces the old AIARE Level 3.

...follow it to the sea!

Find Your Course Anyone interested in the backcountry should attend a free avalanche awareness clinic. The Northwest Avalanche Center holds awareness clinics throughout the Pacific Northwest. Skiers and snowboarders who plan on regular backcountry travel should consider completing the entire recreational training program. Many guide services throughout the Northwest offer the AIARE Level 1, AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course, and AIARE Level 2. AIARE and the Northwest Avalanche Center maintain a list of local providers and courses. Aspiring avalanche professionals should sign up for pro courses directly through AIARE. Pro courses are offered in venues around the country, and taught by AIARE’s in-house pro instructors. Above all, invest the time and money to get educated. Here’s to another safe and successful season in the backcountry. We’ll see you out there.

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WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Snowshoes brews and

Snowshoe destinations and nearby libations BY BRANDON FRALIC

hen the lowlands succumb to sogginess and the highlands are buried in snow, there’s one thing that gets me through Northwest winters: beer. Warmer winter brews provide comfort from the cold. And because moderate outdoor activity effectively cancels out the calories – with the added benefits of fresh air and sunlight – I’m making an effort to get out more before imbibing this winter season. My solution? Snowshoes and brews. To break into this low-impact winter hobby, rent or buy some snowshoes from your local shop. First-timers needn’t worry about the learning curve – most folks pick snowshoeing up with little effort; it’s essentially walking with extra-large shoes in the snow. Stay out of groomed ski tracks and you’ll be set. Here are a few easy pairings for the beginner snowshoe and brew enthusiast. Continued on next page >>

A snowshoer near Artist Point. Jefferson Morriss photo.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Mt. Baker: Salmon Ridge Sno-Park + The North Fork Brewery Cost: $20 for one-day Sno-Park permit (or $40 seasonal permit) There’s no need to drive far for snowy excursions. Follow Highway 542 for 46 miles east of town to reach Salmon Ridge SnoPark, located across the road from Silver Fir campground. Don’t be surprised if the snow is more than a foot high in the parking lot. With nearby Mt. Baker Ski Area holding the world record for snowfall in a season (1,140 inches, winter 1998-1999), this little riverside park can really get dumped on. Salmon Ridge Sno-Park is mostly flat, making it the perfect jaunt for beginners and families. Walk alongside groomed cross-country ski trails down to the north fork of the Nooksack River, taking care to stay out of ski tracks. Snowshoers can make their own paths through the deep snow. There’s nothing quite like breaking trail here on a bluebird day – the sounds of the river, wind, and snow falling from massive Douglas fir, hemlock and cedar trees above. Post ‘shoe, drive 26 miles back towards Bellingham for brews at The North Fork Brewery. Weekenders are advised to show up early, as this place will be hopping with the ski crowd by 4 p.m. Warm up with whatever barleywine is on tap – there’s always a high alcohol ale at the Fork. For the even more adventurous, barrel-aged sours may be this beer shrine’s finest offering. Besides the pizza, of course.

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Leavenworth: Waterfront Park Trails + Icicle Brewing Cost: Street parking. Snowshoeing is free When the snow is abundant, it’s possible to snowshoe from trail to taproom in Leavenworth. And that’s exactly what you should do. Begin at Waterfront Park – just a couple blocks from Icicle Brewing Company. Strap on snowshoes if the powder is plentiful, or simply take a walk on well-packed trails if it isn’t. The way runs south from Waterfront Park, across forested Blackbird Island to Enchantment Park – following the Wenatchee River all the while. The two-mile trail network offers a few flat, easy loops for skiers, walkers and snowshoers. Few towns in the state are more lively than Leavenworth. A festive feeling, fueled by a constant rotation of Bavarian-themed events and mountain magic, follows you into the taproom. Take the chill off at Icicle Brewing Company with a pint of Dark Persuasion, a luxurious German chocolate cake ale. Snacks and small plates are available, but if you’re famished head down the street to Icicle’s sister business, Munchen Haus, for unfussy German sausages served in a heated outdoor biergarten. Prost! Whistler/Blackcomb: Lost Lake + Brewhouse Cost: $5/day for parking in Village Day Lots 4 & 5 Best known for its world-class ski slopes, Whistler/Blackcomb also caters to snowshoers with plenty of walking trails. The most convenient snowshoes-to-brews route begins in Whistler Village, with a trek out to Lost Lake. From parking lots 4 and 5, you can take the Valley Trail out to Lost Lake Trail, loop around the lake, stow your shoes in the car and head across the street to the Brewhouse. The trail network is extensive, offering endless options for an hour or a full day of exploration. Back at the Brewhouse, enjoy pub grub and a Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics-inspired 5 Rings IPA while watching the tiny train pass overhead. Speaking of trains, for an alternative adventure from Whistler’s Function Junction, snowshoe out to the Whistler Train Wreck – a traincar graveyard in the woods. Follow it up with arguably the best beer in Whistler at Coast Mountain Brewing. Their farmhouse ales are fantastic.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

The US Forest Service offers ranger-guided snowshoe walks throughout Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest during winter. Excursions include Avalanche Awareness Walks, Winter Photography Outings, and “Kids in the Snow” among others. From north to south, these outings are offered by the Glacier, Darrington, Stevens Pass and Snoqualmie Pass ranger stations. An excellent value for beginners, these guided walks include snowshoe rentals for a suggested donation of $15-$25 per person. To make reservations, search for “Guided Snowshoe Walks” at: fs.usda.gov/main/mbs/home.

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WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

W Hot drinks for a cold season BY AMY GIBSON Fireside Companion

Make a strong chai tea of your choice – use 1.5 times more loose tea than normally called for in 10 ounces of water. After tea is ready, add: 1.5 ounces of ginger-infused whiskey* 4 ounces milk of your choice Honey to taste 2 dashes of spiced bitters

Cactus Flower

inter is a quiet time in nature, when life has retreated into roots and seeds, saving energy for the promise of sun. The forest is a dripping place that holds hints of what will come in spring. I find good practice in mimicking nature’s inactivity – I think of my desire to curl up and stay warm as a partial hibernation. Compared to the full social life that comes with the holiday season, taking time for quietude is necessary to create balance. As a forager, I walk in the woods often in search of plants. I plan for spring, seeking new places in nature and finding promising skeletons of plants left behind for future harvests. To stay warm during these winter walks I pack a thermos full of a spiked hot beverage and sip as I go – maintaining my inner heat and embracing the season. Whether walking in the woods or curled up at home, there’s a hot drink to suit every occasion. These are two of my favorite quick drinks, along with a few fun combos to experiment with.

In 16 ounces of hot water, add: 1 cinnamon stick 2 slices of lemon or orange (including the rind) 3 tablespoons chamomile tea in a teabag 1.5 ounces of Reposado Tequila (or Mezcal, if you like) Honey or agave syrup to taste Let steep in thermos for at least 10 minutes before drinking.

Other quick combos to experiment with

Black tea, spiced rum, choice of milk, orange bitters Chaga Mushroom tea, creme de cacao, coconut cream, dark rum Reishi Mushroom tea, ginger whiskey, amaretto, lemon Coffee, brandy, black walnut bitters, frangelico Dandelion root tea, honey, choice of milk, spiced alcohol

*Have you tried infusing your own alcohol yet? It’s easy! Pulse 1/4 cup fresh ginger in a food processor, and combine with 2 cups of whiskey. Let it sit for 4 days, strain through a cheesecloth, and you’re done!

Nooksack Nordic Ski Club Cross Country Ski Enthusiasts and Stewards of The Salmon Ridge Cross Country Ski and Snowshoe SnoPark

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

The

Sn w Gl be Effect T

STORY AND PHOTO BY BEAU GAUGHRAN

he Pacific Northwest is a land of magic. As a budding photographer who is somewhat new to the area, I find something special around every corner – a distant view of Mt. Baker or the way light gets filtered through rain and moss-covered branches to hit the trail just right. A typical day of snow sliding, be it touring in the Baker backcountry, hiking

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Cowboy Ridge at Stevens Pass or riding the lifts on a deep day, usually starts in a far tamer place. We begin in the lowlands, where the weather is about the same as it was the day before. We wake up before dawn and throw everything we need into the car; hastily made coffee gets dumped into mugs as we worry about what we could have forgotten and argue about which episode of “The Dirtbag Diaries” to listen to. Heading out of town, we’re in a semi-dream state. Light soaks into the sky and clouds begin to glow. Driving toward Stevens, we’re lucky if we catch a glimpse of Rainier as the sun comes up. But the magic doesn’t truly begin until we reach snow. Introducing the Snow Globe Effect: that sensation you get from entering a winter wonderland from the green forests below snow line. I love this moment. The snow line filters out all the stress that built up during the workweek. I am finally clear-headed. I think you, too, experience the Snow Globe Effect. As you drive towards your mountain playground from any of the low elevation towns, you inevitably cross that ever-elusive snow line. If it’s raining, the droplets turn into fat flakes. The sound of water hitting the windshield stops. The frosty down feathers of winter envelop your vehicle. Everything gets quieter. The crowded thoughts of the workweek fade into pillow lines, powder turns and the white room. If it’s dry, you get a different sensation but with the same outcome. Without an obvious transition, the effect hits later. It’s kind of like drinking with family over the holidays – you don’t realize you’re slurring your words until you’ve just wrapped up a deep conversation with an equally wasted aunt Nancy. Sometimes you realize it in the middle of your skin track. Here, the Snow Globe Effect can be confirmed when someone blurts out something like, “Holy Cow, guys, we’re on the moon.” The feeling I get crossing the snow line while headed to the mountains is like teleportation, or like walking through a wardrobe into Narnia. We are all are guilty of occasionally daydreaming about being somewhere else; somewhere radically unlike our current environment. We’re always scheming up expeditions to faraway places, wishing we could teleport to the top of a peak that we see while driving or to a sexy surf break in Indonesia we saw in a magazine. We are exceedingly lucky to live where you can stroll in a temperate rainforest or along the Salish Sea in the morning, and in the afternoon be halfway up a snow-covered volcano. The next time you’re at a low point in your week, wishing you were up in powder heaven, just remember that you live in a snow globe. Here in the Pacific Northwest, at any time of the year, you can find Mother Winter. Sometimes it just takes a little more hiking.

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One last reminder

Snowmobile club brings beacon testing checkpoints to local trailheads

BY OLIVER LAZENBY

ave you ever gone to turn off your avalanche beacon after a day in the backcountry and found out you never turned it on? If you haven’t made this potentially fatal mistake, you’ve probably been with a friend who has. This winter, the Northwest Glacier Cruisers snowmobile club is installing electronic trailhead beacon checkers at four local SnoParks – one more reminder to turn on safety gear. Funded by a $10,000 Puget Sound Energy Foundation grant, the Skagit County-based club bought four signs with beacon checkers and is working with the Whatcom County Snowmobile Association to install them by mid-December. “We're always looking for ways to make our areas safer,” said club secretary Tina Shields. “That’s kind of our philosophy as a club right now – if we can make things better and safer then we’re doing what we need to do.” The “Are You Beeping” signs instruct travelers to pass one at a time. When they get within 10 feet, the sign displays a green “O” if their beacon is transmitting a signal. “You don’t even have to stop at the sign and it lets you know your beacon is working,” Shields said. The club will install signs at the Mt. Baker National Recreation Area Sno-Park (at the Schreiber’s Meadow trailhead), the club’s warming hut near the Anderson/Watson Creeks Sno-Park, the Glacier Creek SnoPark on Forest Road 39 outside Glacier, and the Canyon Creek Sno-Park on Forest Road 31, also outside Glacier. A solar panel powers the beacon checkers and a back-up battery allows them to work 24/7, even if the solar panel is covered in snow during a two-week storm. The beacon checkers also collect data on how many people use them – data that Shields hopes could secure more funding for local plowing and grooming. In fact, collecting data is one of the original goals behind the signs, said Scott Waller, who designed

and built them and runs the nonprofit Are You Beeping, which is based in Bellevue, Washington. Waller sells the signs and hardware at cost and runs the company “with massive sup-

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port” from his wife and daughters, he said. Waller, former patrol director for the Cascade Backcountry Ski Patrol and National Ski Patroller of the Year in 2015, heard over and over from avalanche experts that they wished they had data on how many people traveled in the backcountry. Waller’s beacon checkers are now collecting data at backcountry access gates and public trailheads from Alaska and Canada to Utah.

One thing is apparent from the data: the signs work. From the pattern the beacon tracker picks up, Waller can tell if people turn their beacons on while standing in front of the sign. “I could see that a lot of people walked up to the sign and then turned their beacon on,” he said. “It actually shows we engaged the public and influenced them. You wonder, would they have turned on those beacons if the sign wasn’t there?”

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Stimulate your feet for better balance STORY AND PHOTOS BY LUCA WILLIAMS

o there I was – on the coast of Kenya hoeing corn and collecting coconuts. My friend’s great-grandmother, working beside me, said, “After we finish hoeing the field and pounding the corn to make cornmeal, I have to go visit my grandkids in another village.” “How far away do your grandkids live?” I asked. “It’s about 32 kilometers. I will walk as far as I can, spend the night in someone’s hut, then walk the rest of the way.” My mouth dropped as I imagined this approximately 65-year-old woman walking 32 kilometers (about 21 miles) on dirt roads, ready to stay the night at “someone’s hut.” Oh, did I mention she was barefoot? When I arrived in Kenya I wanted to live up to the old adage, “When in Rome,” so I shucked my shoes and went barefoot for the next five months. I only wore shoes when traveling the city or riding buses. I was young and wouldn’t do it again today, but it was a fantastic experience Now, I don’t expect people to just give up shoes. But since Kenya, whenever I can, I throw off my shoes and feel the ground. Bare feet on carpeted ground isn’t so hard; it is the uneven and bare ground that makes this a challenge. Periodically throughout the summer, I chase my toddler down the gravel driveway, both of us slamming our bare heels onto the rocks. It’s slightly painful, no doubt, but something about being barefoot on gravel makes me feel alive. But this barefoot session is more than just a feeling. With each step, I remind the sensory nerves on the bottoms of my feet to wake up, thereby improving my balance. Balancing depends on a complicated system; our brains rely on sensory information from our vision, inner ears, feet, ankles and joints to keep us upright. Most of us take our equilibrium for granted until it goes awry. For many of us, after years wearing shoes on flat ground, the nerves in our feet become desensitized;

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hunching over our computers taxes our eyes and our ability to balance deteriorates. Thankfully, we can improve our balance at any age as recent studies reveal that foot stimulation can help restore balance in the elderly. Go ahead and check your balance. Ideally standing in front of a friend or a mirror, stand up and shift your weight onto one leg, keeping your spine straight. If it seems troublesome, just do your best. While standing on one leg, time yourself with your eyes open. Then time yourself with your eyes closed. Switch legs. Notice which leg is easier to balance on. Next, sit down. Massage, gently pound and generally stimulate your feet until they feel warm and tingly. Alternately, if you have some rough carpet, scuff the bottoms of your feet on the carpet until they tingle. Or go ahead and be brave like the 65-yearold Kenyan woman and walk outside on gravel – that really wakes up your feet! After your feet feel tingly and warm, stand up and time yourself again standing on one leg, with your eyes open and closed. You are likely to discover that your balance has improved. Notice how alive you feel when the bottoms of your feet have been massaged. You may never go barefoot outside the house like my friend’s grandmother, but simply balancing on bare feet can stimulate your feet, improve your balance and improve your posture.

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WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Familiarity can expand the possibilities A midwinter ski circumnavigating of Mt. Shuksan

STORY AND PHOTOS BY JASON GRIFFITH

ith icefalls cascading down her northern flanks and a summit pyramid towering over a plateau of ice, Mt. Shuksan’s complicated form transfixes everyone who sees her up close for the first time. First time ski area visitors

sometimes assume that Mt. Shuksan is actually Mt. Baker, because why on earth wouldn’t you name the ski area after that mountain? Shuksan gives an immediate impression of ferocity, steepness and danger. Climbers looking at the mountain for the first time often wonder if there is a safe route to the top (I

know I did). And in winter? Avalanches and spindrift course down Shuksan’s flanks and the mountain can be locked in storm for weeks at a time. No thanks! But familiarity has a way of expanding the realm of possibility. I first climbed Shuksan in summer 1999 via the Fisher Chimneys route above Lake Ann and have returned every

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few years, sometimes to a different route and sometimes on my splitboard to speed the way in and out. Fast forward 14 years and I’d climbed Shuksan several times, spending many winter days around her flanks. A winter ascent no longer seemed crazy. Winter climbing in the Cascades is a waiting game. The windows of good climbing conditions and, most importantly, safe av-

alanche conditions, are rare. What exactly does a “window” look like? That varies by the climber and the particular route, but for our team (Kit, Gord, Chad and myself) it meant at least three days of clear weather and a Northwest Avalanche Center forecast for “low” or “moderate” danger at all elevations. With daylight scarce, we planned a two-

day climb to Mt. Shuksan that left an extra day before the next storm in case of injury or other mishaps. Some years there isn’t much of a window at all, at least not one that aligns with home and work calendars. In mid-January, it all aligned for us. Chad was visiting from southeast Idaho and we wanted to show him that the Tetons weren’t all that great – not compared to the North Cascades. We handled the logistics and gear, leaving Chad blissfully unaware of what he was getting into until we all piled out of the car at the White Salmon lot, pointing to our objective, bathed in morning light and towering 7,700 feet above the north fork of the Nooksack River. I’m pretty sure Chad gulped, but he didn’t show it. We left the White Salmon base area (altitude about 3,600 feet) on a descending traverse towards the head of the White Salmon valley. As the morning wore on we labored up towards White Salmon Glacier, hurrying though the danger zone below Hanging Glacier. We nervously eyed tracks left by blocks of ice that had fallen thousands of feet from Hanging Glacier into the valley, hoping that the next salvo didn’t run any farther down. On the way out of the ski area we had run into Daniel Helmstadter, a Cascades legend with many first descents to his credit. Now we could see him far above us, expertly weaving a path up the glacier. Following his track made our job of avoiding crevasses on the glacier a lot easier; from then on, we fell into a rhythm, taking breaks occasionally to marvel at the view, the weather and our luck at the stable snowpack. About five hours after leaving the car we popped into the sun on the gloriously flat ridge atop White Salmon Glacier (about 6,700 feet), which would be our home for the night. Here we settled into the winter routine of melting snow for water, stomping our feet to stay warm and wishing the sun would stay above the horizon just a little longer. In the morning, we were reluctant to leave

our sleeping bags until the sun came up. With little time to waste, we left our overnight gear and started the ascent by skinning up and across the Upper Curtis Glacier, where ski crampons were useful, and then taking our skis off to boot through Hell's Highway. We reached the mellow slopes of Sulphide Glacier 1,000 feet above camp and followed it to the summit gully. Daniel had kicked great steps the day before that made it easier for our team to ascend the icy 45-degree snow slope to the very top. Unlike Daniel, we left our skis at the base. We ended up belaying a short bit from the gully to the summit ridge, where the angle and exposure increases significantly for the final few feet to the rime encrusted summit rocks. From the summit, ridge upon ridge of jagged peaks plastered in snow and ice stretch out north, east, and south; to the west, more than a vertical mile below, lay the ski area parking lot and the bustle of a busy day on the hill. The Idahoan was suitably impressed. We had the summit to ourselves, naturally, but couldn't stay long. We down-climbed the summit gully and returned to our skis. Instead of exactly retracing our route from the morning, we kept heading counterclockwise around the summit pyramid, traversing the upper slopes of Crystal Glacier until we could complete a short climb to the top of Hanging Glacier where we stripped skins for the fast ski back to camp. After packing camp, we faced an unpleasant ski down the firm White Salmon Glacier with full packs. Great climbing throughout poor ski conditions was a theme on the trip. Unfortunately, that’s typical on the large peaks of the North Cascades, where safe winter climbing conditions often mean bad skiing. But the outrageous positions and views along the way more than made up for it. On the final climb back to the car at dusk, I thought about future winter climbing objectives. I realized I’d never climbed Mt. Baker in winter.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Clockwise from top left: Sam Giffin laying it out over the Mt. Baker Highway / Brad Andrew photo. Carl Jonson makes the most out of sunset on Hemispheres at Mt. Baker Ski Area / Gabe Rogel photo. Jed Sims hiking for some early season turns on Heliotrope Ridge / Gabe Rogel photo. Ollie the golden retriever hiking the Chain Lakes Loop / Evan Skoczenski photo. Sean McBride climbing ice above Colchuck Lake / David Summers photo.

Clockwise from top left: Searching for powder with friends in the shadow of Mt. Rainier / Beau Gaughran photo. Who said no friends on a pow day? Russell Winfield leads the way for Cam Hamilton into the run of a lifetime in the Mt. Baker Backcountry / Brad Andrew photo. Adam Roberts descending the White Salmon Glacier / Jason Hummel photo. Kyle Miller taking the train to the beginning of a snowboard traverse from Crystal Mountain to Stamped Pass / Jason Hummel photo. Hidden Lake Lookout in the North Cascades / Jason Hummel photo.

Clockwise from top left: Frankie Devlin dipping into toeside bliss in the Mt. Baker Backcountry / Brad Andrew photo. Allen Taylor skiing at Crystal Mountain / Jason Hummel photo. Matt RussellÂ in between powdery turns on a snow day at Galbraith Mountain / Eric Mickelson photo. Adam Roberts slashes a knoll on the White Salmon Glacier / Jason Hummel photo. Mattias Evangelista on a bluebird day in the Mt. Baker Backcountry.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Clockwise from top left: Leif Jones drops into Gunners Bowl at the Mt. Baker Ski Area on a cold December morning / Brad Andrew photo. Meaghann Gaffney and Brock Holmes ski bumming at Mt. Baker / Grant Gunderson photo. Leif Embertson fishing the Nooksack River / Eric Mickelson photo.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Cascade Cross

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Northwest Washington’s cyclocross series gets a new director BY BENJAMIN WHITNEY

ellingham is home to what may be the Pacific Northwest’s rowdiest cyclocross race series. Cyclocross races typically include dirt, grass and pavement, but Cascade Cross races are longer, rougher and contain more singletrack than series hosted in Seattle, Portland and Vancouver. Kip Zwolenski has been racing cyclocross for years and organizes the Bellingham Grind Corps, a series of adventurous group gravel rides. He took over as Cascade Cross race director this season, which started in October and runs through January 13. MBE: How did you jump into the role as Cascade Cross Race Director? KZ: I volunteered and helped out last season. Ryan Rickerts who has been running the series for 10 years was looking to dial back his role and I was ready to step in. I’m really excited to connect with the nexus of people that make this series happen year after year. MBE: Have you organized any events like this in the past? KZ: Well, I’m a teacher so I facilitate stuff. I’ve also done a lot of community activist work in the past. Currently, I coordinate the Bellingham Grind Corps, which overlaps a lot with the cyclocross crowd. Most riders will modify their cross bikes for gravel season and we have the same vibe. MBE: What’s new for the 2017-2018 race series? KZ: My biggest thing is consistency over the course of the season. This means hosting races every two weeks, more preseason planning and gathering input from main volunteers and team captains. But I’m not looking to make any large changes. This season I’m working to make each event stand alone. I crunched the numbers and easily 40 percent of our racers only make it to one or two events. So we’ve added podiums after each race, something we’ve only done at the season’s end before. We’re also trying to encourage more female riders to give cross a try. MBE: How are you going to increase the female race field? KZ: We’re at about 20-25 percent female racers. That’s a disparity. So we asked ourselves what can we do to change that? The Queens of Dirt have been really helpful. They’re putting on clinics for female riders to talk through techniques and course features. We also put together a package for women to participate in an evening clinic with Queens of Dirt at Lake Padden. We offered half off towards a Cascade Cross series pass or single race fee. Our series is really open. You can show up on a mountain bike and still have a good time. MBE: What’s the best way to grow cyclocross in the Pacific Northwest? KZ: Bring a friend. Once people see it, they get it. We’re definitely trying to grow our youth and women’s fields. I think the biggest thing is word of mouth. The final two Cascade Cross stops of the season are Saturday, December 2 at Camp Lutherwood on Lake Samish, and Saturday, January 13 at Cornwall Park in Bellingham. Learn more at www.cascadecross.com and www.queensofdirt.com

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Heart, trust and respect 460 sleepless miles of trekking, mountain biking and paddling at the Adventure Race World Championships BY SPENCER PAXSON

Bellinghamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quest Race Team during one of the mountain bike legs at the Adventure Race World Championship. Chris Radcliffe photo.

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magine standing on the outskirts of town. You are contemplating a journey equivalent to 17 back-to-back marathons or more if you get lost along the way. With your trail shoes on, three friends by your side, a svelte pack of essentials and a paper map in your pocket, you wait for the sound of a whistle. When it blows, you head straight for the horizon by foot, bike and paddle in one massive, uninterrupted push until you reach your destination, some five nights and 450 miles later. Believe it or not, in the niche of ultra-endurance sports, this is actually a “thing” and it is known as expedition adventure racing. In this sport, teams of two to five race from checkpoint to checkpoint, battling terrain, lack of sleep and navigational challenges for days at a time. After years of honing their skills, Bellingham’s Team Quest – Brent and Annie Molsberry, and Emily and Dusty Caseria, two married couples – went this summer to the Adventure Race World Championships in Wyoming. Along with 60 of the world’s top teams, Team Quest ran, trekked, mountain biked, paddled and rock climbed from Jackson to Casper, Wyoming, a distance of 460-500 miles depending on route with nearly 100 miles on foot, 300 miles by bike and 60 miles on water. Racers had to pass 12 mandatory checkpoints along the way using only a paper map. Participating in its first world championship race, Team Quest hoped “to keep moving, not get injured, clear the course, support one another with heart, trust and respect, and not to lose the joy in what we were doing, despite the inevitable discomfort and stress of such a high-level com-

petition,” Annie wrote in a race report. They also wanted to finish in the top half. After storming out of Jackson alongside 240 other racers, the lowest moment for Team Quest occurred the first night. On paper, it looked like a couple trails could be joined together for a quick start. Instead, at nightfall, the team found itself at the dead end of a trail network – nothing like what the map depicted – in a cold creek drainage dotted with fresh bear scat. In the process of trying to reorient, they spent the first night cold, hungry, exhausted and stressed. It was a rough start, but the team trains for that kind of thing. A firefighter/paramedic, a physical therapist-in-training, a registered nurse-in-training, and a mechanical engineer, these Clark Kents spend most of their spare time as adventure racers. At their level, even with full-time work and school, adventure racing is more of a lifestyle than a hobby. If they seem a bit tired at work on Monday mornings, it might be because they spent the weekend biking from Bellingham Bay to the base of Mt. Baker, climbing to the summit

and skiing off the top, then pedaling back to the bay. Or circumnavigating Lake Whatcom on mountain bikes with as much technical trail and steep climbing (and maybe some bushwhacking) as possible. Think of the most ambitious double date you can imagine – that’s a Team Quest training mission. Brent, the team captain, began expedition adventure racing in 2004 at the six-day Primal Quest adventure race in northwest Washington. With a team of newbies, he finished 18th against the best in the world. With a newfound love, Brent got involved in promoting the local adventure race scene and today, along with Bellingham-based organization Recreation Northwest, organizes events such as the Kulshan Quest and San Juan Island Quest Adventure Races. Brent formed the Quest Adventure Race Team in 2013. Dusty and Emily, former competitive college runners, joined in 2014. Annie, a former professional modern dancer and occasional swim-commuter, joined the next year. With Brent’s guidance and encouragement, the four developed their craft for racing, starting with “sprint” races (two to three hours) and eventually moving up to 12, 24, and 36-hour “mid-distance” events. Their names are now common at or near the top of results sheets in local and regional events. The team grew close along the way. Emily and Dusty married in 2015, and Brent and Annie married this summer. On the racing front, by late 2016 the quartet had qualified for the World Championships in Wyoming, the pinnacle of the sport. The team drew on its experience to dig its way out of that mental and physical low-point in the dead-end drainage just outside Jackson. They motored on and a 36-mile bike ride revived their spirits. While the race is called “The Cowboy Tough” by the organizers, it could also be The Cowgirl Tough, as teams must have both genders. Team Quest was one of only three teams racing with two women – most had only one. “The capacity to endure boils down to communication, mental toughness and perseverance,” Annie pointed out. “Gender is inconsequential when it comes to these critical elements.” With the first big misstep out of the way early on, the team fell into a better groove and took a less literal view of the map, adopting the motto, “the map is wrong.” As they covered ground, they steadily passed other teams. But the elements did not relent: they endured hot sun, cold, freight-

“Think of the most ambitious double date you can imagine”

Chris Radcliffe photo.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Nebraska

Jackson

Chris Radcliffe photo.

train winds, horizontal rain, sandy mud and clay and ink-black nights, all with very little sleep. They received “morale resuscitation” from encountering other teams. In one instance, they learned of the “bivvy burrito,” where a more experienced team demonstrated how to go from riding bikes to being lined up in a ditch, swaddled all together in a space blanket and snoring. All in less than one minute. Speaking of sleep, one of the primary challenges of multi-day adventure racing is the lack of time to recharge. The team’s strategies to staying awake include call-and-response singing, repeating one word over and over until thinking of another word to repeat, wiggle dancing, burpees, recounting every detail of falling in love with your partner, 10-minute naps and, finally, slackening all facial muscles and then slapping your face as hard as you can. Team members fell asleep while riding bikes uphill, downhill and while paddling a pack raft. By the fifth night, they described themselves as being “a haggard foursome.” That night they napped for “a glorious 80 minutes” inside a structure surrounding a pit-toilet in the barren sage steppe outside Casper. And all of sudden, there they were, 127.75 hours and hundreds of miles of sagebrush, rattlesnakes, bear, cacti and thunder and lightning later, uninjured, moving swiftly toward the course’s finish and supporting each other with heart, trust and respect. Despite tremendous discomfort, they were overcome with joy and nearly in the top third of the race in 24th place. They met all of their objectives and then some. They spent 95 percent of the five-and-a-half days on the go, with less than eight hours of cumulative sleep. They lost 27 pounds between the four of them, but they made it. In the end, the numbers tallied along the way mattered less than the perspective gained from the experience. Many see such pursuits not as a pinnacle of human spirit, but more so the pinnacle of athletic hubris. Choosing to endure five-and-a-half days of the torture that is expedition adventure racing is, in part, an escape from reality. But Team Quest acquired lessons for the real world. “It is my hope that the challenges I overcome during training and racing strengthen my spiritual endurance and ability to act against the intolerance, injustice and hardship that exists beyond the bubble of sport,” Annie wrote in her race report. “Stepping off the race course, may I meet these challenges with the same goals Team Quest had for our World Championship effort: keep moving, don’t get injured, and support my fellow humans with heart, trust and respect.”

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A Turn for the Better

Snowboarding returns to its essence STORY AND PHOTOS BY BEAU GAUGHRAN

Taylor Carlton near the top of the course at the 2017 Mt. Baker Legendary Banked Slalom.

anked slalom races are spreading throughout the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Although Mt. Baker Ski Area’s Legendary Banked Slalom started over 30 years ago (shortly after the sport itself), the format has only just started to reach the wider world of snowboarding. Just last winter both Stevens Pass and Crystal Mountain hosted their first banked slalom races – the Last Ditch Effort at Crystal and The Slayride at Stevens. Why now? For many, snowboarding used to be about big air and tricks. Now it seems like the sport’s goal is less about how many rotations you can do and more about speed, grace and creativity on the way down. The industry reflects that movement with new surf- and race-inspired directional boards becoming popular. These new boards combine the style of old race shapes with some modern updates. A graceful turn is a subtle art that many overlook on the way to learning 360s and backflips. But how well a turn

is performed is hard to measure – except, perhaps, in a banked slalom race. “It fosters a more dynamic understanding of a mountain, encouraging and rewarding riders to surf with the terrain,” said John Ferguson, a competitor at The Slayride Banked Slalom. “Under the feet of a quality shredder, rolls in a run offer powerful bursts of speed to take into the next transition. Every turn and transition counts in a banked slalom. The riders who link fluid turns and simple lines are rewarded with the most speed.” The sport has aged to a point where the masters have been at it for decades. While they may have grown up riding the park or hucking off cliffs in the backcountry, knees don’t last forever. Banked slaloms allow older riders to enjoy competition and actually win. In 2012, the top three Legendary Banked Slalom finishers in the men’s pro category were older than 30. In banked slalom races, riders like Terje Haakonsen, Temple Cummins, and Josh Dirksen can still dominate younger and physical-

ly prime pros. It seems that winning a banked slalom takes an intimate knowledge of the turn gained over decades. The Slayride at Stevens Pass was my first time actually racing in a banked slalom. As someone who has never snowboarded competitively but loves to go fast with friends, it was perfect. The stakes were low, the vibe carefree and the friendliness between competitors was genuine. Adversaries rooted for each other and gave each other tips after their runs. I knew I was in the right place when the starter gave me a warm smile and told me to watch out for the ice on turn six. In this way, it feels like a team sport – until you find yourself all alone after the first turn. Snowboarding has changed a lot in its short history and every year new trends and events pop up. But for now, it seems that a big part of the sport has gone back to what made it fun in the first place – turning. This winter, I’m looking forward to connecting intimately with my edges, turning hard and painting pretty lines on snowy canvasses. Something tells me this isn’t just a trend.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

P O S TC A R D S

ast year I ducked away from America for a job teaching English in central Spain. I went for a lot of reasons, but honestly, I ditched the U.S. because my truck was breaking down and I was broke. A plane ticket was cheaper than a new transmission. So I sold my truck to two bright-eyed Guatemalans who planned to fix it and drive it to Central America, where it would get another life transporting farmworkers up and down a rutted and rocky mountain road. The thought that my truck was going to explore mountains in a Spanish speaking country made me excited to do the same. In December, I went to Catalonia with my friend Fausto Garate, where we met up with Mt. Baker local Lucas Debari and professional climber Matt Segal. Siurana, about two hours from Barcelona, is a climbing destination as well as a destination for all Spaniards because of its history and position. The ancient city was made famous in 1153 when a Muslim queen rode her horse off a cliff because she preferred suicide to being captured by Catalonians. Lucas got a good taste of Spanish culture the first morning we awoke in the fog excited to get our hands on Spanish limestone. As usual, Lucas was up first. Our Spanish and Basque friends didn’t rustle as he broke down the tent and made breakfast. We ate, and then decided to go to the bakery to buy fresh bread and cheese for lunch. Back at camp the Spaniards were just emerging and pulling out chairs, coffee and cigarettes for a good morning sit. Watching Lucas squirm as he realized we weren't going anywhere anytime soon was a private joy. The days passed like wispy puffs of moisture on the breeze, moving from place to place without hurry. We climbed, sat and talked a lot. We shared belays and bread with travelers from across the world. Some evenings would find us in the crowd at the climbing store or bar in town, trying our hand at the local art of passing time by sharing stories and strengthening bonds. The best part of every day was the weary hike from the cliffs back to the top of the plateau; we would watch the clouds return and fill the valley bottoms with moisture. The paths linking Siurana to other mountaintop communities would disappear, and we’d be afloat again, our little island with its ancient castle peak alone in a sea of soft white.

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The eagles have landed winter eagle watching on local rivers BY OLIVER LAZENBY

Dozens of eagles perched above the Nooksack River Valley. Audra Lee Mercille photo.

rom late November to late January, thousands of bald eagles descend on local rivers and streams in search of chum salmon. Eagles arrive from as far as Montana, northern California and Alaska, just as salmon from the Salish Sea and beyond swim upstream to spawn and die. This dance makes for some spectacular eagle viewing right under our noses. During the annual chum feast, these majestic gobblers of salmon carcass can be spotted all day long. If they’re not near the river, they’re likely perched in trees nearby. Cloudy days can be ideal for spectators, as eagles tend to stay closer to the river when it’s overcast. For best results, bring binoculars. Don’t disturb eagles by approaching and leave pets at home or keep them on a leash. Squamish River Located just north of Squamish and 43 miles north of Vancouver, Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park is right on the Squamish River, which boasts big salmon runs and an impressive wintering bald eagle population. To get a better look, visitors can head to the Eagle Run viewing shelter, just outside the park boundary on the municipal dike, across from the Easter Seal Camp

on Government Road in Brackendale. More info: bit.ly/2zolO1E. Nooksack River There are several good viewing spots along the Nooksack River near Deming. Take a right onto Mosquito Lake Road off Mt. Baker Highway, and you’ll soon cross a bridge over the river in an area where eagles are known to nest. Deming Homestead Eagle Park offers easy access and a path with signs along the floodplain. Turn right onto Truck Road near milepost 15 on the Mt. Baker Highway, and go another half mile. The park is on the right. More info: whatcomcounty.us/2065/ Deming-Homestead-Eagle-Park. Skagit River Follow Highway 20 to Rockport to check out some of the best eagle viewing sites in the state. The Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretive Center at Howard Miller Steelhead Park offers guided walks. The park is accessible from Alfred Street or from State Route 530 near the bridge over the Skagit River. Marblemount Fish Hatchery and the milepost 100 rest area along Highway 20 are two other options, and there are plenty more if you do some exploring. More info: skagiteagle.org.

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photo a day A season with A

Disposable Camera BY JANN EBERHARTER

very day at Mt. Baker is different, which might be why they all blend together. I’ve had the privilege of spending the past seven seasons at the end of Highway 542 and lost count of the powder days years ago – same goes for the rainy ones. What stands out every year, however, are the people I meet. More than a few long-time friendships have been founded in the morning powder lineup, on the slow commute of Chair 5, or while sitting on top of the Shuksan Arm. Each day at Mt. Baker is a reunion with these fine folks, and I couldn’t think of a better way to spend it than chasing them all over the mountain through powder, rain, sleet or sun. (Preferably powder though, thanks.) As each season becomes a whirlwind of powder plumes and icy chutes, it’s the little moments that begin to stand out. Like the time I watched three friends ride to the bottom of Mt. Herman, where they all followed the first track off a 10-foot roller, launching to flat, and each creating a separate bomb-hole. And then there was the time we scored first tracks down an ungroomed Canyon with two feet of fresh snow. Or the time last season, when we walked out of the lodge at 2:30 p.m., caught the last ride up Chair 8 and proceeded to walk out the Arm, where we watched the parking lot empty until it felt like we were the last ones on the mountain. Each of these instants elicits a feeling that never grows old. A sensation that wraps thankfulness, stoke and pure exhilaration into one single moment, usually delivered with an uncontrollable

“Yeeooow!” and a big grin. In an effort to preserve that feeling – or at the very least document an accompanying moment – I stuffed a disposable camera in my backpack this winter, vowing to try to take at least one photo a day. Some days I took a couple, other days I took none. And honestly, I totally forgot about the whole idea until I was digging through the pack before a trip this summer. That small brick of plastic and low-quality 35mm film had just a few of many radical times embedded into it, and without even seeing the photos I was caught in a wash of memories from the season. The photos are small, flimsy, and in all reality, not amazing. (A couple had my finger covering half the frame.) But what they represent is something much larger – the people, a place and that feeling that I never want to forget.

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Put it in your

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was “a little brash, something outside of the box. People should go out for the experience, not to get what you could have at home.” But why the name Mt. Baker Mouth Hole? Owen said he had originally planned to do a cookbook featuring his own recipes, food so good “…you would want to put in your mouth hole.” At that point, he figured he might as well go whole hog, open up a restaurant and give it directly to people. The idea changed, the name stayed the same. Speaking of hog – in the future, the two want to offer food events such as pig roasts and concerts. All the food is made from scratch – stone-ground pesto, organic salads, hand-pressed hamburgers and pub-style seasoned buns. The two aim for classic modern food with a twist. Above all, consistency in quality and presentation is the goal, he says. The Sasquatch theme runs through the menu and restaurant. Growing up in the area, Benson remembers how kids would always have the Sasquatch in the back of their minds whenever they went into the woods. Made with marinated prawns and mini-meatballs, the Sasquatch Bloody Mary would probably satisfy even the real creature. It’s a meal in itself. Located in the middle of Maple Falls, Mt. Baker Mouth Hole is open 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. Tuesday – Thursday, until 11 p.m., Friday – Saturday and until 7 p.m. on Sunday. Closed on Monday. Give it a try.

f you’re looking for a new dining experience on your way up to Baker, it’s worthwhile stopping in Maple Falls again. The people at Mt. Baker Mouth Hole will be happy to serve you with a smile and a cold one. Partners Jesse Owen and Jessi Benson opened the doors in the fall and word of mouth has been traveling fast. Owen, who has 20 years’ experience in the food business, says he wanted a restaurant that

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WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

EVENTS NOVEMBER HOLIDAY FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS: No-

vember 17 to December 24, Bellingham. Celebrate the Season with work from over 100 local artists. Seven days a week 10-7, holidays excluded. More info: alliedarts. org

TURKEY TROT 5K: November 18, Bell-

ingham. A 5K at Squalicum Creek Park that benefits the Bellingham Food Bank hosted by the Greater Bellingham Running Club. More info: gbrc.net

MEC SNOWFEST: November 18,

Vancouver. Celebrate all things snow at this year’s snowfest, featuring a gear swap, instructional clinics, and family friendly entertainment. More info: events.mec.ca

DECEMBER JINGLE TRAIL RUN: December 2,

Coupeville. Run, walk or stroll the 5K route through the unique and scenic trails of Camp Casey and Fort Casey State Park, with sweeping ocean vistas, evergreen and salal canopies and crisp winter air. More info: coupevillechamber.com

find more events and submit your own at mountbakerexperience.com

FAIRHAVEN FROSTY 5K AND 10K: December 2, Fairhaven. The Greater Bellingham Running Club hosts this race on roads and hard pack trails. More info: grbc.net

GUNNAR SHAW MEMORIAL CROSS COUNTRY: December 2, Vancouver, BC.

5K and 10K trail runs in memory of Gunnar Shaw. More info: lgrr.com

MT. BAKER SANTA PHOTOS: Decem-

ber 9-10, Mt. Baker Ski Area. Get the best holiday photo ever, on the ski slopes with Santa and Mrs. Claus. More info: mtbaker.us

AVALANCHE

AWARENESS

REI:

December 12, Bellingham REI. Learn to use avalanche bulletins and forecasts, and recognize basic signs of danger. More info: rei.com

BAKER BEACON RALLY: December 16,

Mt. Baker Ski Area. Bring your shovel, probe and beacon for a free avalanche rescue workshop. More info: mtbaker.us

MLK LOCAL’S RACE: January 14 & 15,

Mt. Baker Ski Area. Local snowboarders can race to qualify for the Legendary Banked Slalom. More info: mtbaker.us

FEBRUARY CASCADE CUP LOPPET: February 3, Manning Park. This classic cross country ski event starts at 10 a.m. at Lightning Lake in Manning Park Resort and includes lunch and an award ceremony. Race options range from 2K to 30K. More info: manningpark.com MT. BAKER LEGENDARY BANKED SLALOM: February 9, 10 and 11, Mt.

MOONLIGHT SKI DOWN: March 3, Manning Park. Enjoy a winter tradition in Manning Park’s true alpine wilderness. Experience nordic skiing after dark with Manning Park Resort’s Moonlight Ski Down. More info: manningpark.com

VALENTINE DINNER: February 14, Mt. Baker Ski Area. Enjoy a romantic fireside dinner at the Raven Hut Lodge after a day of skiing or riding the snowy slopes. More info: mtbaker.us

MUSSELS IN THE KETTLES: March 3-4,

ISLAND ICE: December 26-31, Oak Har-

bor. Ice skating is coming to Oak Harbor’s Windjammer Park between Christmas and New Year’s Day. More info: oakharborchamber.com

Whidbey Island. Take an early season mountain bike ride on Whidbey Island, followed by a free beverage at the World Famous Penn Cove Mussel Festival in Coupeville WA. More info: musselsinthekettles.net

JANUARY

HOT CHOCOLATE 15K/5K March 4, Seattle Center. Join the movement that’s taken over the racing world. Hot Chocolate 15K/5K is headed to Seattle. More info: hotchocolate15K.com

POLAR BEAR PLUNGE: January 1, Birch

IFSA JUNIOR REGIONAL FREERIDE:

12TH DEEP WINTER PHOTO CHALLENGE: January 6, Whistler, BC. The

MARCH

SEATTLE BIKE SHOW: March 3-4, Seattle. Check out the biggest bike expo in the Northwest at CenturyLink Field Event Center. More info: seattlebikeshow.com.

March 10-11, Mt. Baker Ski Area. The best junior freeskiers show their skills on Mt. Baker’s legendary terrain. More info: mtbaker.us

NEW YEAR’S DAY 50K: January 1, Vancouver, BC. Vancouver’s resolution 50K is a great way to start the New Year, and so are the shorter options, including a swim. All runs feature beautiful scenery on trails and bike paths, starting in Stanley Park. More info: clubfatass.com

December 2-3 Oak Harbor. Two days of cyclocross races, including a kids course. Also features food and beer vendors. More info: cascadecross.com

Lynnwood. Large consumer trade show that is 100 percent fly fishing! Show also has classes for fly fishing, casting demos, featured fly tiers, destination theater, film festival, seminars, author’s booth and much more! More info: lynnwoodcc.com

Baker Ski Area. Join the best snowboarders from around the world to watch the legendary race. More info: mt.baker.us

Bay. Start the New Year off right and take a cold dip in the Salish Sea. More info: bakerbirchbay.com

THANKS GIVEN’ER:

THE FLYFISHING SHOW: February 17,

best winter sports photographers from around the world brave the elements to capture the essence of winter at Whistler and compile the winning slideshow for the voting public. More info: deepwinterphoto.com

THE BLACKWALL BASH: January 14, Manning Park. The Blackwall Bash is a challenging new race to the top of Manning Park’s Blackwall nordic trail, with skate ski or classic options. More info: email nordic@manningpark.com

RECREATION NORTHWEST SUMMIT & EXPO: February 23 & 24, Bellingham Cruise Terminal. Recreation Northwest’s annual summit and expo returns with vendors, exhibitors, industry professionals, speakers, networking and more. More info: recreationnorthwest.org

CHUCKANUT 50K: March 17, Bellingham. The Chuckanut 50K is a lollipop course. The first 10K and last 10K repeat on the Interurban Trail with smooth running to start and finish. The middle 30K is what this race is known for as you get to climb (5,000 feet), traverse and descend the famous Chuckanut Mountain Ridge amongst beautiful Pacific Northwest terrain. More info: chuckanut50krace.com GOLDEN EGG HUNT: March 31, 2017, Mt. Baker Ski Area. Find the golden egg to win a season’s pass to Mt. Baker next winter. More info: mtbaker.us

APRIL BIRCH BAY ROAD RACE April 7, Birch Bay. 5K, 15K, 30K running and walking road race along the scenic shores of Birch Bay. More info: birchbayroadrace. com

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Where to

eat

ACME/VAN ZANDT BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL

974 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-2200 www.bluemountaingrill.com Fresh, homemade fare, including baked bread and desserts made daily, steaks and burgers. Open Wed–Mon, 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Twin Sisters.

EVERYBODY’S STORE

5465 Potter Road, off Highway 9 360/592-2297 www.everybodys.com This delightful and eclectic store features a wide array of gourmet meats, specialty cheeses and fine wines, many of which are made locally. Also check out their great selection of clothing, books and artwork.

BELLINGHAM BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY & BISTRO

1107 Railroad Avenue 360/647-5593 www.bbaybrewery.com Since 1995, catering to locals and outof-towners alike. 10 house brews on tap paired with a menu of fresh Northwest locally-sourced pub food. Family friendly establishment with daily live entertainment.

EAT RESTAURANT AND BAR

1200 Cornwall Avenue 360/306-3917 www.4u2eat.com American farm-to-table with a French twist. Back-to-roots cuisine and regionally inspired dishes that are healthy, creative and flavorful, utilizing locally foraged and sourced products from nearby farms. Open 4–9 p.m. for dinner. Join us for monthly wine dinner every third Sunday.

HUNDRED NORTH

100 North Commercial Street, 360/594-6000 www.hundrednorth.com Fresh seasonal cuisine in the heart of downtown. All local organic produce, craft cocktails, an extensive wine list and weekend brunch. A world class chef, superior food and service make this a top dining destination.

of seasonal, specialty and limited release beers. Rotating food trucks. Live music and events. Available for rent.

OPERA FRENCH PASTRIES & COFFEE

1206 Cornwall Ave. 360/778-1960 www.operafrenchbakery.com Serving authentic French pastries, light breakfast and lunch, and coffees from local roasters. The bakery’s interior has a French theme, with historic images of France, and blue and white signage that replicates the Paris Metro subway. Open Monday-Saturday 8 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.–7:30 p.m. Open Sunday 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

WESTSIDE PIZZA

7260 Cordata Parkway, Suite 107 360/756-5055 www.eatatflyers.com Pizza made with only the best ingredients available, and dough made fresh every day. The perfect place to stop after a long, hungry day of adventuring.

BLAINE THE VAULT WINE BAR

277 G Street 360/392-0955 www.thevaultwine.com Eighty-plus bottle options for any wine/ beer enthusiasts taste, reasonably priced. Delicious NW fusion menu including generous charcuterie/cheese boards featuring local products. Catering options for large groups. Daily happy hours 3-6 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday 3-10 p.m.

BURLINGTON SKAGIT’S OWN FISH MARKET

18042 Hwy 20 360/707-2722 www.skagitfish.com Offering the highest quality in local seafood. Daily lunch specials freshly prepared. Local jams, jellies, salsas, honey and sauces. Visit them on Facebook.

CONCRETE 5B’S BAKERY

45597 Main Street 360/853-8700 www.5bsbakery.com Skagit County’s premier bakeshop serving home-style breads and a full array of fresh baked goods and classic American desserts. Dedicated gluten free. Great food for all. Open 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tue.

KEENAN’S AT THE PIER INSIDE ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA 804 10th Street 360/392-5510 www.thechrysalisinn.com Featuring a seasonal menu, full bar and terrace bar open for happy hour every day, 3–6 p.m. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner daily with a view of Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands from every table.

44568 State Route 20 360/853-7227 www.anniespizzastation.com Family-owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare. Friendly service, helpful information and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.

KULSHAN BREWING CO.

DEMING

2238 James Street 360/389-5348 www.kulshanbrewing.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery. Bring your own food or order from on-site food trucks at this neighborhood gem.

1538 Kentucky Street 360/389-5348 www.kulshanbrewing.com Kulshan Brewery’s second location. Our 30-barrel brew house offers an extensive line of award-winning beers plus a host

THE NORTH FORK BREWERY AND BEER SHRINE

6186 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2337 www.northforkbrewery.com Looking for marriage or a pint of fresh ale and hand-tossed pizza? This pizzeria, brewery, wedding chapel and beer museum is your place! Open to all. Mon–Fri: dinner; Sat–Sun: lunch and dinner.

WELCOME GROCERY

5565 Mount Baker Highway 360/922-7294 Eat in or take out. Fresh-made, home-

style breakfast, lunch and dinner. Pastries, deli sandwiches, rotisserie chicken and softserve ice cream. Largest bottle shop in region. Plus, ethanol-free gas.

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GOOD TO GO MEAT PIES

128 W. Main Street 360/966-2400 www.goodtogomeatpies.com Artisan Hand Pies made from scratch in the heart of Whatcom’s organic farmland has made Good to Go Meat Pies a popular destination in both Everson and Lynden. Pastries are offered hot, chilled or frozen.

HERB NIEMANN’S STEAK HOUSE RESTAURANT

203 W. Main Street 360/966-2855 www.eversonsteakhouse.com Nestled in the middle of Everson, serving a mouth-watering array of steaks, Bavarian specialties, seafood and desserts to customers since 1993. Atmosphere for adults and families alike, including parties up to 50.

FERNDALE SILVER REEF HOTEL CASINO SPA

4876 Haxton Way 866/383-0777 www.silverreefcasino.com We offer five diverse dining options from woodstone fired pizza to themed buffets and award-winning fine dining at The Steak House.

GLACIER CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA AND BAR

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2511 www.chair9.com The perfect place to enjoy a great family meal or brew after a day on the mountain. Bands play weekends. Try the “Canuck’s Deluxe” pizza, a staff favorite. Open for lunch and dinner. Dine in or take out. Check music events on Facebook.

GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9883 Grab a stool at the legendary bar and enjoy rotating selections of craft beers, ciders and wine. New menu specials – appetizers, lunches and dinner. Breakfast weekends.

WAKE ‘N BAKERY

6903 Bourne Street 360/599-9378 www.getsconed.com Open daily 7:30 a.m.–5ish p.m. Serving breakfast burritos, quiche, soup, lunch wraps and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free options. Organic espresso and coffee. Dine in or take out.

LYNDEN BELLEWOOD ACRES

6140 Guide Meridian 360/318-7720 www.bellewoodfarms.com Visit the distillery farm, country store and bistro for artisan food products and Northwest gifts. Visit the website for a full list of entertainment and family activities.

JAKE’S WESTERN GRILL

8114 Guide Meridian www.jakeswesterngrill.com 360/354-5588 Big portions, quality comfort food with Southernstyle! Mouthwatering pulled pork, baby back ribs and brisket served with fresh

cornbread. A lip-smackin’ end to a fabulous day on the mountain.

110 Stewart Road 360/873-8852 www.farmstrongbrewing.com Pure Skagit Valley on tap! AB’s Hillbilly Gyros food truck. Trivia Wednesdays, 7 p.m. Family and pet friendly. Open Tue–Sun at noon. Closed Mon.

THIRD STREET CAFE

309 South Third Street 360/542-5022 www.thirdstreetcafe.coop Brought to you by the Skagit Valley Food Co-op, Third Street Cafe is a community-owned restaurant and bar offering a fresh perspective on Pacific Northwest cuisine with its made-from-scratch dishes and hyperlocal ingredients.

ROCKPORT GLACIER PEAK RESORT EATERY

58468 Clark Cabin Road, Rockport 360/873-2214 www.glacierpeakresort.com Historical eatery on SR 20 between milepost 103 and 104. Serving seasonal dishes throughout the year. Famous cinnamon rolls, pumpkin pancakes, daily dinner specials, homemade pies and espresso bar.

Where to

Sleep

LUXURY GETAWAYS

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/398-9590 or 887/90-BAKER www.stayatmtbaker.com Representing the Finest Chalets and Lodges. Luxury Getaways provide overnight accommodations in newly built vacation homes located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area. Perfect for hitting the slopes and relaxing.

SNOWATER RESORT AND CONDOMINIUMS

10500 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2724 www.snowater.org One and two-bedroom rentals available. Recreation centers with indoor pools and sauna. Indoor/outdoor racquetball courts.

THE FIRS MT. BAKER CHALET

Mile marker 54 Mt. Baker Highway 800/765-3477 www.firschalet.org A lofty summit setting for juniors through adults, just 54 miles east of Bellingham, State Route 542. It is only 3/10 of a mile from the Mt. Baker Ski Area, and Mt. Shuksan sits at the back door.

HOPE, B.C. MANNING PARK RESORT

7500 Highway 3 800/330-3321 or 604/688-5922 www.manningpark.com Manning Park Resort is a four-season family resort 45 minutes east of Hope, B.C., that offers year-round camping and accommodation, hiking, canoeing, skiing/boarding, 64 km of Nordic trails, snowshoeing and an outdoor ice rink.

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BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS

804 10th Street 360/756-1005 www.thechrysalisinn.com Each guest room overlooks a spectacular Northwest seascape. Spacious rooms feature fireplace, down comforters, luxury amenities and a two-person bath elegantly set in natural slate. Three distinctive room types offer increasing levels of luxury.

FERNDALE SILVER REEF HOTEL CASINO SPA

4876 Haxton Way 866/383-0777 www.silverreefcasino.com Located off I-5, exit 260, we’ve got 206 luxurious rooms or suites to make yourself at home with beautiful Mt. Baker views, complimentary breakfast, and free Wi-Fi.

GLACIER A CHALET AT MT. BAKER

7087 Bluet Pass 360/367-0963 www.chaletatmtbaker.com Cozy cabin for rent. Come experience Mt. Baker this season. Our warm and cozy cabin is fully furnished. Includes a wood-burning stove, outdoor hot tub, and fire pit. See it at vrbo.com/779920. Email chaletatmtbaker@ gmail.com.

BLUE T LODGE

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944 www.bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queen-sized beds, a full bathroom and private small patios as well as access to a meeting space.

7425 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2999 or 888/695-7533 www.bakeraccommodations.com Baker Accommodations offers cabins and condos in the resort developments of Snowater, Snowline, Mt. Baker Rim.

MT. BAKER LODGING

7463 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2453 or 800/709-7669 www.mtbakerlodging.com Mt. Baker Lodging offers cabins, condos, chalets and executive rental home accommodations. A number of selected units are pet friendly. Walk-in reservations and onenight stays available.

ROCKPORT GLACIER PEAK RESORT

58468 Clark Cabin Road, Rockport 360/873-2250 www.glacierpeakresort.com An outdoor enthusiast wonderland located on the western entrance of the North Cascades. Newly renovated cozy cabins and chalets to fit any budget. Made-to-order breakfast included and restaurant onsite. Open year round.

WINTHROP CHEWUCH INN

223 White Avenue 800/747-3107 www.chewuchinn.com Guest rooms for romantic getaways, seasonal travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. Relaxed atmosphere of a B&B with privacy of a hotel. Centrally located for an abundance of outdoor adventures in the surrounding wilderness areas.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

What would Fred Beckey do? inspiration from the late legend BY MALLORIE ESTENSON

“I Dave O’Leske photo.

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think I want to get, ‘What would Fred Beckey do?’ tattooed on my arm,” I told my climbing partner lightheartedly. Carey and I were in Potrero Chico, Mexico, for a month of climbing beautiful bolted routes on limestone. We’d left our lives behind to drive across the border at Laredo, Texas, and navigated our way to a Mexican climbing heaven. Looking back, I think the context is kind of funny. “Why?” Carey responded. Obviously, Carey didn’t know enough about Beckey, I thought. Or maybe she’d heard enough about his gruff nature and affinity for women. Or maybe she just hadn’t knowingly climbed enough of his stunning routes in the Pacific Northwest and beyond – the man pioneered many of North America’s classic climbs, starting in the late 1930s. If you flip through his compilation, “Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs,” or even just through some of the guides he published for the Cascades (which many Cascades climbers refer to affectionately as “Beckey Bibles,”) you can begin to grasp the enormity of his life’s work. Everything I’ve ever heard about Beckey made me admire him a little

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bit more. He was a climber’s climber, putting his love of mountains above everything. He established countless first ascents – likely more than anyone else on the planet and more than he could keep track of – and held down fewer jobs than most of us could even dream of. He was so dedicated that, allegedly, scamming free coffee from McDonalds and hoarding condiment packets helped him get by. Beckey, in my mind, was the greatest climber of all time. He talked the talk, walked the walk and stayed high enough, often enough to avoid the limelight. In a world saturated with social media influencers rather than lasting influences, we’re a little worse off without his presence in the climbing community. Despite decades of pioneering climbing, he always came home and he shared his life’s work and dedication with the rest of us in guidebooks. He died on October 30 at the ripe old age of 94 in Seattle, his hometown. I still need to get that tattoo.

Editor’s note: She got the tattoo.

Don Liska photo. Photos courtesy of Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey.

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Summits on the Air dispatches from the society of mountaintop radio operators BY NICK BELCASTER

Tim Nair on the summit of Carne Mountain. Photos courtesy of Tim Nair.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | WINTER 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

he first time I spoke to Tim Nair his voice came in over my handheld radio, hailing me through the static. “Summit to summit, summit to summit, this is KG7EJT on Mt. Fremont, calling KE7RVG.” I was standing on the 6,650-foot summit of North Twin Sister fidgeting around with my radio and sighted down the Cascade Range, stretching south in a breaking set of whitecaps, toward Mt. Rainier and its sub-peaks – Mt. Fremont included – on the horizon. He’s transmitting from way over there? I was astounded. Not only were six AA batteries powering his booming voice 125 miles with clarity, but it was doing it all without a cell signal. As remote as I was, I could whip up a friendly conversation with another climber. I was hooked. My new brand of fun had a name: SOTA or Summits on the Air. As somewhat of a local authority on the practice, Nair sums it up well: “SOTA is a contest where one takes radio equipment to a list of designated summits, and tries to make contact with people around the country and the world for fun.” Certain mountain peaks are assigned a point value based on how accessible and technical they are, and radio operators can “activate” them by making four contacts from the summit.

The minimum requirement is a technician level amateur radio license from the FCC, which requires an exam. “The good news is you don’t need to know anything like Morse code, and you can even get an app to help you study for the test,” Nair says. With $15 and a good test score later, you’re fully licensed. Then once you’ve got your own radio, which can be had for as cheap as $30, you’re set to head up to the hills and begin making contacts of your own. So if it’s a contest, what’s the prize? “The Mountain Goat award,” Nair says. “It’s the award you’re eligible to claim once you’ve reached 1,000 activator points.” That’s a lot of summits, and Nair just recently became the first in Washington state to make it. By going out nearly every weekend Nair has gained a small following of “chasers,” or those who attempt to talk to him while he’s on a summit. Not only does Nair get a kick out of it, but many non-climbers get to enjoy the action second hand. As a backcountry communication tool, amateur or ham radios are rarely seen in the hands of your average recreationalist. Normally my radio sits in the bottom of my pack as a last resort: a way to call for emergency help without cell signal or to listen for a weather forecast. Nair came

to carry an amateur radio much the same way I did – as an emergency communication tool. A few years ago he was leading a YMCA hike in the Goat Rocks Wilderness when another group had an accident. Nair performed CPR on the victim, but needed to get a call out for help. “Everybody had their cellphones out, but not one person could get any kind of cell signal or text out,” Nair says. “We were all frantic, we knew the guy needed help but nobody could get any coverage.” This incident led Nair to explore other options, and eventually had him carrying a handheld amateur radio on all his hiking trips. With a small antenna and a list of radio repeaters in the area, Nair could get a call out just about anywhere. “I get a lot of compliments from so many people that say that the whole Summits on the Air thing adds so much to the hobby,” Nair says. “It gives them something interesting to talk about and lets them imagine being there.” Since my first activation on North Twin I’ve talked with Canadians on the Gulf Islands from Yellow Aster Butte, and chatted with a fellow atop Hurricane Ridge from a North Cascades lookout tower. Pulling out my radio to see who I can reach has become part of my summit celebration. Geeky? Undeniably yes. But it’s some goofy fun that might just save your bacon one day.

WINTER 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

BY PAT GRUBB

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Ethyn Frost and his dog Aspen enjoying a new blanket of snow in Bellingham in early February. Dylan Luder photo.

Splitboard aficionado Frankie Devlin summited Denali twice last summer, but he’s not afraid to take it to the streets. He did a lipslide on this rail and 270’d out the hard way as freezing rain started to fall. Brad Andrew photo.

Carpe Diem

seizing opportunity after 2017’s lowland storms

t doesn’t snow at sea level in the Pacific Northwest every year, so when storms blanketed Bellingham for days at a time last winter, skiers and snowboarders took advantage. For some that meant getting in a couple turns on a thin layer of packed snow on a residential street, edges sparking against asphalt. Others took to rails, built jumps, and got chased out by security guards. When will it happen again? Maybe this year; maybe not for another decade.

“After searching for spots, our crew settled on this rail. We shoveled snow onto the landing and Jamie Baril made the best of it “- Dylan Luder

Cam Hamilton takes flight in the Chuckanuts. Brad Andrew photo.

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