Mount Baker Experience fall 2015 by Point Roberts Press

FALL 2015

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

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Fall2015

Publisher’s NOTE BY PAT GRUBB

in this issue

8 CRAFT BEER EXPLOSION

Six new breweries in Bellingham

his has been an epic summer for recreationalists of all stripes. Each long, hot, sun-filled day has been followed by another long, hot, sun-filled day in a seemingly never ending parade. Whether you’re a kayaker, a hiker or a swimmer, you couldn’t ask (or expect) better conditions in the Pacific Northwest. The weather almost makes up for the dismal snow conditions we had last season. Speaking of which, we’ve been hearing some alarming scenarios on what we should expect this winter. Seeking reassurance, we turned to famed University of Washington meteorologist Cliff Mass to find out what he’s got to say. Yup, no question we’re in for a classic El Nino winter with lower precip and warmer than normal temps, he says. But here’s the good news – he doesn’t believe conditions will be as extreme as they were in 2014/15. We’ll take heart in that prognosis. Meanwhile, we’ve still got the end of summer and all fall to enjoy ourselves in the great outdoors. This issue should help give you some ideas and inspiration what with articles and photography on some of the greatest adventures you’ll find anywhere. So get out there and have some fun while the getting is good…

BEST FALL HIKES

on the Mt. Baker highway

RUN FOR THE HILLS

CLOSE TO HOME

Guided trail runs in the N. Cascades

Exploring BC coast by sail & SUP

ADVENTURES IN CX

12 USE YOUR HEAD

How to recognize a concussion

18 CLEAN BIKES GO FASTER

A comprehensive guide to cleaning

Action and adventure in the PNW

24 PHOTO GALLERY

Cyclocross is all the thrill you need

28 FISHING HAIDA GWAII

44 PURPLE MOUNTAIN MISERY

A fisherman’s paradise

30 GEAR UP FOR WINTER

45 THE LAST VIEW

Best of the SIA tradeshow

46 THE GLACIER BOWL

How to cook on a campfire

38 A HUNDRED GRAND

Commercial salmon fishing in Alaska

40 LOCAL EVENTS CALENDAR

Fall ski mountaineering

32 COOKING WITH FIRE

Adventures of the Indoor Enthusiast

Fall races, festivals, music & more

A community dream come true

36 SHNOOKER TREK Iceland’s tallest peak

41 LET’S GET BAVARIAN

SHUKSAN

Official Mascot of Mount Baker Experience

14 INDEX PROVIDES

Oktoberfest at Chuckanut Brewery

42 EAT AND SLEEP

Dining and lodging guide

A dirtbagger’s paradise

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar EDITOR Ian Ferguson

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLICATION DESIGN Doug De Visser COPY EDITOR Kara Furr

MBE Fall 2015

stamatiANAGNOSTOU

Stamati is a rock climber, teacher and freelance human who currently lives wherever his gypsy truck/camper roams.

OFFICE MANAGER Amy Weaver

STAFF WRITERS Steven Guntli • Kara Furr

ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser ADVERTISING SALES Catherine Darkenwald • Janet McCall Molly Ernst • Judy Fjellman CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: Stamati Anagnostou, Brian Chapel, Marty Grabijas, Garrett Grove, Matt Gruchey, Grant Gunderson, Ryan Hasert, Jason Hummel, Jess Kruger, Karl Kruger, Aubrey Laurence, Oliver Lazenby, Jason Martin, Amanda Nayfield, Spencer Paxson, Andy Porter, Brandon Sawaya, Rylan Schoen, and Callie Waldschmidt EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience

martyGRABIJAS Marty Grabijas is a product developer in the outdoor industry and a PSIA ski instructor who spends a disproportionate amount of time pushing his envelope in the outdoors.

garrettGROVE Garrett is a professional climbing, biking and skiing photographer currently residing in Leavenworth, WA. Garrettgrove.com

mattGRUCHEY Born in the Pacific Northwest, Matt is a writer and photographer who never goes anywhere without his flyfishing rod.

TWITTER: twitter.com/MB_Experience iNSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is an outdoor recreation guide for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps. Vol. XXIX, No. 3. Printed in Canada. ©2015 POINT ROBERTS PRESS 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 TEL: 360/332-1777 NEXT ISSUE Winter 2015/16 • Out late November Ski • Snowboard • Backcountry • Climb Ad reservation deadine: October 15

ON THE COVER Bridget Grove jogs towards Mt. Ruth after climbing the 8-pitch, 5.11 Elation in Hannegan Pass. Photo by Garrett Grove, garrettgrove.com

grantGUNDERSON One of the ski industry’s pre-eminent photographers, Grant has shot for every major snow sports and outdoor publication worldwide. Grantgunderson.com

jasonHUMMEL Jason is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades. Alpinestateofmind.com

jessKRUGER Jess loves triple cream Brie, big dogs, little cats, dancing, and sailing to beautiful places. She runs adventure sailing trips with her husband Karl and daughter Dagny (and eats lots of popcorn).

aubreyLAURENCE

Aubrey is a freelance writer who has written about craft beer, hiking and climbing for a variety of publications. He lives in Bellingham with his wife/number 1 climbing partner, Jen.

oliverLAZENBY Oliver is a guidebook author turned business journalist still trying to figure out how to sit at a desk all day. He’s most passionate about skiing and hiking, and lives in Bellingham.

jasonMARTIN Jason is a mountain guide, general manager at American Alpine Institute and a widely published outdoor writer. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and two young children.

amandaNAYFIELD Amanda is a physical therapist in Bellingham. When she’s not at work you can find her climbing, hiking, skiing and running in the mountains.

spencerPAXSON Spencer is a Bellingham local and Pacific Northwest native who rides professionally for The Kona Bicycle Company.

andyPORTER Andy’s love of the outdoors began at age 16 with an Outward Bound program in the Sawtooth Wilderness. Find him online at andyporterimages.com

brandonSAWAYA Kayaking, mountain biking and mountaineering were all becoming so boring and tame... so I decided to start a family. I am an image maker in Bellingham, WA. Brandonsawaya.com

FALL 2015

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

SPECIAL PUBLICATION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

karlKRUGER Karl has spent his life running around in the mountains, skiing the same mountains, sailing...some surfing, and most recently is chasing the dream with Jess of providing adventure sailing trips in wild places.

rylanSCHOEN A fortune cookie once told me: “This is a good time for you to enjoy the outdoors.” I have always trusted that cookie. Rylanschoen.com

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SAIL AND SUP ON THE BC COAST BY JESS AND KARL KRUGER

ith clenched hands, constricted throats and nerves stretched piano wire tight, we navigate the most difficult territory of our three-week journey. Our unwieldy vessel teeters under its loaded weight, creaking to a crooked stop. “Are you having a party?” asks the checkout lady at Island Market, our local grocery store. She’s eyeing the cart piled high with food. “Meme’s not doing well! Meme’s not doing well!” our 7-year-old daughter Dagny chants, gleefully drumming a stick of salami in time to her words. It’s true. For me, her “Meme,” massive grocery bills are no party, but this overloaded cart is intended to carry us through at least three weeks of sailing. Back home aboard our sailboat Winkapew (Wing-KAHPoe), we rapidly store our provisions. A 61-foot ketch built in 1972, Winkapew has no shortage of space for stashing food. Food is the last item on our prep list, and soon we are casting off under sunny skies. We motor gently away from Deer Harbor, Orcas Island, and plot the shortest course for Bedwell Harbor to clear customs into Canadian waters. We are dreaming of secluded anchorages, wilder country and marrying this fantastic boat of ours with the surf and standup paddle (SUP) boards racked and ready to ride on her aft decks. Getting into Canada is smooth, as usual. Officers Reilly and Sobering board our boat to conduct a search, but when they join us back on the dock the conversation centers on our daughter Dagny’s swing on the foredeck, and her pet snails they discovered on board. They are also curious about the boards on the boat, and what exactly we are doing with this big, cruising sailboat. We purchased Winkapew in October 2014, moving her up the coast from San Francisco to Orcas Island where we base our sailing charter business, Kruger Escapes. We needed a sailboat capable of taking guests on expeditions with stability, performance, comfort and safety all at the top of our list. Winkapew has a ketch rig (stability), a hull shape shared with several famous ocean racers (performance), a spacious salon plus private guest cabins (comfort) and was designed and built by the trusted and respected C&C Yachts. This build, plus extensive upgrades, gives us the final requirement: safety. Add racks at the back for carrying multiple surf

and SUP boards, and we are more than ready for adventures! We leave Bedwell Harbor and head for Gabriola Pass, our chosen route out of the Canadian Gulf Islands and into the Strait of Georgia. It is a windless day, so we motor along past Ganges, Montague Harbor and Clam Bay. Orca whales make an appearance and bless this first day as we watch their misty spouts drift between evergreen islands and us. We find safe and convenient anchorage in Kendrick Bay, where we feast on Thai steamed fish before launching the paddleboards. This is where having a 7-year-old crewmember comes in handy. Ever anxious to explore the shore, she pushes us into a paddle just before sunset. We land at “Tiny Island,” (named by Dagny), where the sandstone warms our toes and the tide pools are warm enough to encourage wading and splashing. Taken together with the whales, it feels like we are making all the right choices. We bask in this moment. Building a small business is fraught with difficulties, late nights and unknowns. Six years in, moments like this are beginning to grow into days. We feel lucky. Long nights spent scrubbing bilges, pulling hydraulic hose and working on deck by headlamp are beginning to resolve into an image of a gorgeous boat anchored against the sunset. I want to take a picture of my husband and daughter, silhouetted on their boards against the orange of the sky, but the moment is too beautiful. I can’t look away to get my camera. In the morning we head back out into the Strait of Georgia, where the water is heaped up and white capping with the wind gusting to 30 knots. We raise the main sail and steam straight into it. At the bow, Dagny rides the growing swell as the boat climbs and drops over each wave. It is a sloppy, lumpy day in the strait, and we pile on warm layers against the wind’s chill. Then, just north of Texada Island, the wind vanishes, the water glasses off and we strip down to T-shirts. Pulling out our multiple cruising

guides, we pour over possible destinations, anchorages and places we haven’t been. There is so much to see. Our three weeks suddenly seems like a bad joke. We need three months, three years... We decide on Tenedos Bay in Desolation Sound, and drop our anchor close to the cliffs on the western side. In the morning, over freshly baked raspberry scones and coffee, we discuss the day’s possibilities. There are warm, blue-green waters to paddle on our boards, hiking trails and a nearby lake. We decide to do it all. After packing a lunch and water for the day, we launch the boards and embark on a tour of the bay. We explore passages and coves too small for our boat. We paddle to the trailhead, where we picnic on hot rocks on the beach. Dagny explores, rounding up a collection of shells and calling us to see the sparkling black snake she has found, who is clearly enjoying the sunny beach as much as us. Our hike to the lake ends in swimming, laughter and sitting motionless while dragonflies alight on our heads and arms. Paddling back to the boat, we are certain that dinghies are overrated, and in fact we never launch our dinghy for the duration of our trip. It lays serene on the foredeck, while at each anchorage we launch the boards and explore by SUP. We are quiet. We glide through narrow passes and channels barely deep enough to dip a paddle. We spy down upon ochre sea stars, kelp beds, jellyfish and sandstone reefs. We visit beaches loaded with salmonberries, and carefully lift the boards up on rocky islets where we swim, dry out on hot rocks and swim again. We are sailing and SUPing, and the two seem made for each other. At the outset of the trip we had hoped to find good surfing as well, but over 50-knot winds from the north closed Johnstone Strait and thus the west side of Vancouver Island to us. Our philosophy is to let the weather, the winds, tides and currents inform our plans and decisions. This time, the weather selected paddleboards over surfboards, and we are having an incredible time. In Prideaux Haven we set out to circumnavigate an islet on foot, an exploration that includes shoreline rock hopping, deer-trail following and just enough rock climbing for feet clad in sandals. Back on our boards we adjust our stances for the paddle home. Exploring by SUP has given us an unexpected intimacy in each anchorage we visit. A phrase said once in semi-jest has become a mantra for this trip, as we find ourselves fully immersed in place and time: “We live here now.”

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IF YOU CAN SEE MT. BAKER YOU’RE NOT FAR FROM A GREAT BREWERY, AND MORE ARE ON THE WAY.

BY AUBREY LAURENCE

t’s hard to believe that just about eight years ago, Bellingham only had one brewery. Since then, the breweries-per-capita ratio has improved quite a bit. The city now has six operating breweries (Boundary Bay, Chuckanut, Wander, Aslan and two Kulshan breweries), and at least six more are in the works. If all goes as planned, by the end of 2016 Bellingham should have at least 12 or 13 operating breweries, plus more in the surrounding cities and many more in nearby British Columbia. The best part of this growth is that all the breweries offer unique approaches with differing techniques and style interpretations, which only adds to the rich and diverse beer culture of this area.

ESTABLISHED BREWERIES EXPAND Founded in 2012 by Bellingham native David Vitt,

KULSHAN BREWING CO. is one of the fastest-growing brewer-

ies in Whatcom County. Just one year after opening, it doubled the size of its brewhouse to 15 barrels (a barrel is 252 pints). and added fermenters in order to keep up with demand. Then, earlier this year, it opened a second brewery on Kentucky Street in Bellingham, which features a 30-barrel brewhouse and a spacious, beautifully handcrafted taproom. Kulshan’s Kentucky Street facility will mainly produce the brewery’s flagship beers, such as Bastard Kat IPA, Good Ol’ Boy Pale Ale and Red Cap Irish Red Ale, which will allow the James Street facility to create more seasonal, specialty and experimental beers.

Now that WANDER BREWING has its new tanks online, it has been able to grow its accounts southward to the Seattle area. Over the summer, it continued with many more barrel-aged releases in 750 ml bottles, including some sour and farmhouse ales. “The Wander Barrel Project is ever expanding and we recently added two puncheons to the lineup, which are aging beer on local golden raspberries and boysenberries,” said Wander co-owner Chad Kuehl. “In total, we now have around 80 wooden barrels aging all sorts of Wander beers.”

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Eighteen years strong, THE NORTH FORK BREWERY in Deming may be small, but

the number of beers it produces is ever expanding. “We are happy to stay small,” said North Fork co-owner Vicki Savage. “Our size allows us to take more risks and take on more styles of beer.” Eric Jorgensen, The North Fork’s brewer, recently began bottling some of his specialties in 750 ml bottles, and more barrel-aged sours and wild styles will be released in the future. Be on the lookout for The North Fork’s first bottled sour ale, a framboise that’s a blend of three sour ales aged on raspberries in a red wine barrel, which may be released by the time this article is published.

Award Winning Beers

CONTINUED ON PAGE 10 >

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF CRAFT BEER & COMMUNITY THANK YOU FOR MAKING BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY A “LOCAL INSTITUTION” SINCE 1995!

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CHUCKANUT BREWERY & KITCHEN

Tucked away in a residential area at the edge of historic Fairhaven, STONES THROW BREWING is “just a stone’s throw away from adventure,” as owners Jack Pflueger and Tony Luciano like to say. On completion, their unique brewery, which was constructed with shipping containers, will offer a relaxed, neighborhood atmosphere. Visitors will have the choice of hanging out in four areas – an indoor area, a beer garden in the front, a fire-pit area out back and an upper-level patio on top. Using an eight-barrel system, they plan to brew a lineup of five or six easy-drinking beers, such as pale ales, porters, IPAs and the like, plus at least two

brewery

Earlier this year, MENACE BREWING doubled its production capacity with its four-barrel brewhouse in Ferndale. “We have been working on our flagships and perfecting them batch by batch,” co-owner Ben Buccarelli said. “We’re also trying to do some unique one-offs. Plus we just did a gose-style beer with the Bellingham Beer Lab, and we’re very excited about that one.”

the owners of Menace Brewing) recently announced that it will be expanding into the unit next door, which will become a second taproom called The Annex. The Annex will be home to the Bellingham Beer Lab (BBL), which will feature a one-barrel brewhouse. BBL will become the first non-profit brewery in Washington. Essentially, the BBL will have five member brewers – four volunteer brewers who have already been selected and volunteer home brewers from the Bellingham Homebrewers Guild acting as the fifth member. BBL will operate under the guidance of Menace Brewing, but it will be its own independent organization. Five of the 20 taps at The Annex will be reserved for BBL beers, and all proceeds from BBL beer sales will go toward local charities. The Local hopes to have The Annex open by the end of this year and the BBL brewery running by the beginning of 2016. Expect many interesting beers from this brewery, but you’ll have to visit often because they won’t last long. “We want to

STRUCTURES BREWING owners James Alexander and Ryan Miller have both worked at numerous breweries across the country, but now they’re excited to open their own brewery in Bellingham. “Our mission is to design quality, vibrant and balanced beer, while working with mixed fermentations to create innovative beer for the future,” they said. “Quality is what motivates us, and creativity inspires us.” Early 2016, look forward to a cozy taproom serving small-batch beers. They plan to brew a variety of styles, including IPAs, saisons, stouts and pale ales, plus some mixed-fermentation and barrel-aged beers.

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CHUCKANUT BREWERY continues to crank out some of the best European-style ales and lagers this side of the Atlantic. It also continues to rack up awards for those beers, including a whopping four medals at this year’s North American Beer Awards and four medals at the Washington Beer Awards. Ever since opening in 2008, Chuckanut has struggled to keep up with demand, especially for its multiaw a r d - w i n n i n g Pilsner, so it is now working on building a second, 20-barrel production brewery in Skagit County. Chuckanut Brewery & Kitchen in Bellingham will remain open, and will continue to produce beers on the smaller system. When the second Chuckanut brewery opens, hopefully sometime in

BREWERIES IN PLANNING THE LOCAL PUBLIC HOUSE (created by

cycle through as many home brewers as we can,” Buccarelli said, “and this smaller system allows for that.”

sav e

only certified organic brewery, is progressing forward nicely. In the summer, it canned its first beer, Batch 15 IPA, and soon thereafter maxed out its capacity. The two brand-new, 45-barrel fermenters it recently installed will certainly help the brewery keep up with demand, but the question is, for how long? Meanwhile, the brewery has been producing some rather delicious and interesting beers, such as FIFA (French India Farmhouse Ale), which won a gold medal at this year’s North American Beer Awards.

com ry. e ew

ASLAN BREWING CO., Washington’s

oldest brewery in Bellingham, continues to expand and garner accolades. In 2015, Boundary Bay won three medals at the North American Beer Awards and one medal at the Washington Beer Awards, and it was recently named Washington’s Small Philanthropic Business of the Year for its dedication to the local community and charities. Even with all the other breweries opening in Bellingham, production at Boundary Bay hasn’t peaked. In fact, in 2014 it added three 60-barrel fermenters, and it intends to expand its barrel-aging program and distribution. In addition, Boundary Bay is still one of the highest-producing brewpubs around. According to the New Brewer Industry Review, Boundary Bay is the largest single onsite brewpub in Washington and the 10th largest in the nation. One-third of its beer is sold on the premises. A huge 20th anniversary party is set for Wednesday, September 16.

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BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY, by far the

Menace beers can be found at select beer bars and restaurants, and some are always on tap at the brewery’s beer bar in Bellingham, The Local Public House. “Ultimately, we would like to move Menace out of our current location and into Bellingham,” Buccarelli says. In early 2016, Menace will also provide guidance to the Bellingham Beer Lab’s brewery (see below).

am,wa gh in

spring 2016, expect it to be nothing less than amazing. After all, Chuckanut co-owner Will Kemper has helped to build countless breweries around the world.

& Great Food

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> CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21

Daily Happy Hour!

this year. The seven-barrel brewhouse will be combined with his winery and a restaurant – all under one roof. “Initial beers will be a traditional English bitter, a pale ale, a golden ale and an IPA,” Kimmerly said. “I also plan to leverage the winery’s capability with barrels to bring on some sours and other barrel-aged beers.”

or three seasonal beers and specialties at any given time. They will also have a non-alcoholic, house-made ginger ale. Construction setbacks have delayed Stones Throw’s opening, but they hope to have it open by late fall.

Business Hours:

“Things are going pretty good here at

GRUFF BREWING,” said co-owner Chris

Sunday - Thursday 11:30am - 10pm Friday & Saturday 11:30pm - 10:30pm

At the confluence of Bellingham’s Columbia, Cornwall and Lettered Streets neighborhoods, SUBDUED BREWING has the potential to become one of the finest neighborhood brewpubs in the Pacific Northwest. Co-owners Chris McClanahan and Dave Morales both have extensive brewing experience (Morales has brewed professionally), and if you ever had a chance to try some of their beers at one of the Sunnyland Stomps, you know they’re a couple of rather talented brewers. “Starting out, we’re going to focus on four or five beers,” McClanahan said. “Once we get those dialed in, we’ll look into doing other styles. Eventually, we plan to do a series of saisons with unique ingredients.” As far as their brewpub goes, which will hopefully open late summer or early fall of 2016, they want it to be a relaxed, inviting, community-focused gathering spot. Think comfortable seating, no TVs and no live music – a place that’s conducive to conversation. And drinking delicious beer, of course.

Bierman. “We just helped to brew the Bellingham Beer Week (BBW) beer, and we should have some beer in our own tanks soon.” Bierman hopes to have Gruff open by this year’s BBW (September 11–20), but if it can’t make that date, Gruff should

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open sometime this fall. To follow Gruff ’s progress, check out their new website: gruff-brewing.com. Bill Kimmerly, co-owner of Masquerade Wine Co. in Bellingham and an experienced chemist, winemaker and home brewer, hopes to open ILLUMINATI BREWING late

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Smith has been doing all sorts of planning and permitting for his production brewery named ATWOOD ALES. Recently, he has begun updating the 100-year-old barn on his farm in Blaine. “We will produce a variety of ales, many in the spirit of the French and Belgian farmhouse ales that helped to inspire my passion for brewing,” he said. “The surrounding acreage also provides countless opportunities to directly incorporate agricultural and natural ingredients into our small-batch beers.” Smith hopes to be producing beer later this fall, which will be available at select local outlets.

NORTH OF THE BORDER Lockstep with Washington state, British Columbia continues to explode with breweries. Since 2012, when there were only about 45 breweries in the province, the number has more than doubled. In 2014 alone, 21 new breweries opened. By the end of 2015, B.C. should have more than 100 breweries. Joe Wiebe, one of Canada’s leading beer writers and author of the best-selling book, “Craft Beer Revolution: The insider’s guide to B.C. breweries,” says this huge boom

came about for a variety of reasons, but one of the major contributing factors was a provincial law change in 2013 that allowed breweries to open tasting lounges within their own buildings. “Visiting the exciting beer scene in the Vancouver area is easy for folks from the Bellingham area,” Wiebe said. “FOUR WINDS BREWING, which opened in 2013, is just off the highway in Delta, with a tasting lounge and a growler-filling station.” Four Winds was just named Canadian Brewery of the Year at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. Wiebe says much of B.C.’s brewery growth has occurred in and around Vancouver where no new breweries had opened between 1998 and 2012. But in the past three years, 14 new breweries have opened in the city alone, plus another dozen in its immediate suburbs. “Victoria, the provincial capital, is another great destination for Bellingham-area beer lovers, whether via the Anacortes ferry or from Tsawwassen just north of the border,” Wiebe said. “The small, touristy city is home to SPINNAKERS GASTRO BREWPUB, which was Canada’s first brewpub in 1984 and is still going strong today, along with a dozen other breweries and brewpubs, plus a diverse restaurant and tap house scene.” Visit in early September for the Great Canadian Beer Festival or in March for Victoria Beer Week.

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Concussion awareness BY AMANDA NAYFIELD

ou’re riding a technical mountain bike trail with your friend when she takes a hard fall. She was wearing a helmet, and she says she’s OK, but you saw her head hit the ground pretty hard. You’re worried she might have a concussion. What do you do? In recent years, concussion awareness has been on the rise as the long-term and often debilitating effects of head injuries have come to light. Headlines have focused on the NFL and youth sports, but outdoor en-

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thusiasts are just as likely to suffer accidents resulting in head injuries. Symptoms of the complex condition known as post concussion syndrome can last weeks to years, and research shows that immediate diagnosis and treatment is key to minimizing problems. A concussion doesn’t necessarily come with a loss of consciousness, and even whiplash can cause one. The degree of head injury and associated symptoms vary, so careful

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ILLUSTRATION\DOUG DE VISSER

USE YOUR HEAD

observation of behavior following a fall or blow to the head is essential to detecting a minor brain injury. Symptoms may appear minor at first but should always be taken seriously. Here are some signs to watch for: • Loss of memory • Confusion or disorientation • Unsteadiness, clumsiness • Mood changes, anxiety, emotional instability • Vacant or blank look • Headache, sleepiness etc. • Nausea • Neck pain • Light insensitivity In addition to watching for these signs, you can also test orientation, memory and concentration with a few simple questions. To test orientation, ask: Where are we? What day of the week is it? What time is it? For memory, give the person five unrelated words and ask them to repeat them back to you. For concentration, give the person a string of three to five single-digit numbers and ask them to repeat them back to you in reverse order. You can also have them tell you the months of the year in reverse order. If the person appears to be impaired in any of these areas, it is possible they have a concussion. Continue to monitor symptoms

for 24 hours. Do not let the person continue their activity – even minor brain injuries can be exacerbated by exertion. If you are in the backcountry, take frequent breaks and drink and eat snacks. Make sure the person stays alert, even if they feel drowsy. Seek medical attention for a check up. Then, let the person’s brain and body rest for several days with limited activity and limited screen time. It is always good to get checked out by a medical professional to get the green light to resume activity, and in severe cases an emergency room visit may be in order. Here’s what not do if you suspect you have a concussion: Do not take any anti-inflammatory medications (Ibruprofen, Asprin, Advil etc). These medications are blood thinners and could worsen a person’s condition if they suffered a minor brain bleed. Do not participate in screen time for several days. Do not allow yourself to go into a deep sleep immediately following the injury.

whether or not someone is suffering signs of a concussion and what steps to take. If you don’t have an iPhone or don’t carry it with you in the backcountry, you can also keep a quick screening card in your medical kit. Post concussion syndrome is a complex condition related to multiple insults to the brain and symptoms can last from months to years. Symptoms include headaches, dizziness, fatigue, anxiety, depression, irritability, insomnia, light sensitivity and difficulty concentrating. Unfortunately, many people suffering from post-concussion syndrome are often misdiagnosed and never receive physical treatment for their condition. Traditionally, people suffering from post-concussion syndrome have been treated with mood regulating medications and

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neurocognitive rehabilitation. In more recent years, research has shown that physical therapy for vestibular rehabilitation, visual training and treatment of impairments in the neck can greatly improve post concussive symptoms. Many physical therapists are taking courses related to post-concussion syndrome and have developed programs specifically for concussion screening and treatment. If you believe you are suffering from post concussion syndrome, consider seeing a physical therapist who has experience with vestibular rehabilitation and manual therapy.

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“S

hank him!” The night is dark and I hear Logan’s taunt rise above the soft chitter-chatter that usually fills the campground at Index. Dominos rattle like a skeleton at the long and low table where all the regulars kick it, unwinding and playing bones – prison rules of course. We’ve all been fed, many of us cooking meals together and eating together around the table or at the tailgates of our campers. I myself had curry, which I made with the Kiwi, our resident alien. After a long day of climbing nothing beats a good meal and the company of uninjured friends. The Kiwi presses his feet against the opposing walls of a corner known as Shirley, trusting that the soles of his shoes will hold on the too-warm rock. He places his last pieces of protection in a thin crack and then sets off, fighting the tension in his calves and the taunting voices from below: “Prepare to die, Kiwi!” His feet are two meters above his gear as he sets his eyes on the final hold. He goes for it, but misses. His body falls away and down, 10 feet to his gear, then another 10 feet ‘til the rope catches him, then another 10 as the rope stretches under his weight. Kiwi curses at the top of his lungs, shanked by Shirley with a 30-foot fall. He finishes the climb, unscathed, ticked off and ready for Indian food. Time to eat, time to sleep, time to wake up, eat, drink coffee, talk about climbing, drink more coffee. Time to climb. “Prepare to die!” Per decrees as I tie in to lead Shirley myself. I space out a bit and start thinking about how great this is. I live in a shanty camper on the back of my pickup truck. I just expanded my bed, so it can sleep two now. Any takers, ladies? Maybe you could visit Index – the ratio is hurting. It’s just a bunch of dirtbag dudes living in their trucks and vans, taking big falls on scary climbs. We bathe in the river, we lay out on water-polished rocks and we’ve been here for months. Living among the rocks keeps our spirits young. The news of the world has no bearing on our sheltered

summer lives. Staring down at the trees and across at Mount Index, we live free as a cadre of itinerants seeking refuge on the granite walls. We must all be looking for the same thing. We worry that our village will become popular and lose its charm, but it’s too wild west, too fringe, too drug-fueled and weird for most. Yosemite has Camp 4 but we have Camp 3.5. You can walk naked through town, climb bridges and find peace in Index. The best people on Earth live here. For all of our crassness there is as much kind generous grace as I have experienced. If you come here, join us and see that Index Provides.

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RUN HILLS for the

TRAIL RUNNING IN THE NORTH CASCADES BY IAN FERGUSON

or many runners, the act of running is its own reward. It’s a high-output activity that leads to a “runner’s high,” and it doesn’t really matter if you run through city streets, a local park or around an oval track – it’s addicting. For many other athletes, running is a means to an end. An alpinist might run as part of a fitness routine to enable more epic adventures in the mountains. Increasingly, those two worlds are starting to collide. Mountain climbers are finding that trail running allows them to go fast and light, opening up remote objectives, while traditional runners are seeking more adventurous routes and interesting terrain. A guiding company recently launched in Bellingham seeks to serve the growing clientele at the intersection of trail running and mountaineering. It’s called Aspire Adventure Running, and it’s one of the first guide services of its kind. Founder Abram Dickerson came to the sport of mountain running from a climbing background. A guide who has worked for the better part of two decades leading backpacking wilderness trips for youth, he began alpine climbing in college and has been a high-level rock climber ever since. In 2014 some friends invited him to run the Copper Ridge loop trail, a popular 34-mile hike off the Mt. Baker Highway. “The run was incredible,” Abram said. “It was super fun to explore these beautiful alpine trails in a running modality.” One run was enough to turn Dickerson into a dedicated mountain runner. “We started looking at maps with a new eye. We realized that if we get our fitness up, it opens up all these new possibilities.” Dickerson found a big community of mountain runners in the Northwest, a community that is rapidly growing. To his surprise, he discovered there was no guide service in the region dedicated to the sport, and the idea for Aspire was born. Aspire brings clients on awe-inspiring trail runs in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, North Cascades National Park and Rainier National Park. Every detail is taken care of: shuttling to and from the trailhead, a delicious meal and beverages at trail’s end and a safety-net of trained guides in case someone rolls an ankle or loses their way. The company has a strong wilderness ethic. Group sizes are limited to 12 people, and Leave-No-Trace principles are taught to every group before heading out on a run.

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“We want to hold the wilderness sacred as a place for inspiration, challenge and renewal, and not have it become just a race experience,” Dickerson said. Although running with Aspire is different from racing, there are positive aspects of running events that they want to carry through, Dickerson said. There is the camaraderie that comes from running long distances with a group. There is the relief of coming to a well-supported finish line, or in this case a trailhead, where organizers are waiting with refreshments and a heated tent. And there’s the joy of quenching a massive appetite with a gourmet meal. “We like good food,” Dickerson said. “The post-run session is really nice for hors d’oeuvres, so we’ll have homemade pickles and cured salamis, artisanal cheeses, drinks, chips and then a full meal. We’ve done Reubens with homemade corned beef, grilled salmon, pulled pork and of course vegetarian and vegan options.” The meal makes a nice finish, but the real treat is the run itself. Three courses are available this fall: a 30-mile run along the east bank of Ross Lake Reservoir in the North Cascades, a 10- or 20-mile run along the Excelsior Traverse off the Mt. Baker Highway and a collection of runs from 12 to 40 miles along the Highway 20 corridor near Diablo Lake in the North Cascades.

The Excelsior traverse gives runners a heaping serving of the best of the Mt. Baker Wilderness. Starting on the Canyon Ridge Trail, you meander along a forested ridge with occasional views of Larrabee, Shuksan and Baker before a moderate climb to High Divide. Then, you run “probably the best 6 miles of ridge running in the North Cascades, with 360-degree alpine views the whole time,” Dickerson said. “Mt. Shuksan is directly ahead of you and Mt. Baker dominates the skyline to the south. It’s stellar.” After descending to Welcome Pass, you are greeted by support guides, who are waiting with a pop-up tent, coolers full of ice-cold water, beer and kombucha, a warm campfire and a delicious meal. “There’s nothing better at the end of a long run than relaxing with friends, telling trail stories and eating good food,” Dickerson said. With permits for Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, North Cascades National Park and Rainier National Park, Aspire is looking to expand its offerings every year, and is able to arrange custom trips for its clients. For Dickerson, the exploration is the best part. “The best trail is always the one you haven’t run yet,” he said. Find Aspire online at aspireadventurerunning.com.

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FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

FRAME AND WHEELS

Clean bikes GO FASTER A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE STORY BY CALLIE WALDSCHMIDT PHOTOS BY BRIAN CHAPEL

Tools: • Large soft brush for wheels and tires • Rags or a soft sponge for frame • Frame cleanser (sold at bicycle shops) or a bucket of warm water Frame and wheel cleaning is pretty straightforward: gently scrub the wheels and tires and wipe the frame down with soft rags. For marks on the frame you can use a little degreaser sprayed on a rag, but be careful, as some degreasers can remove paint. For dirty grips and grip tape, the rough side of a sponge and a little degreaser can get stains off.

ith the onset of fall in the Pacific Northwest, cyclists rejoice. The dust of summer is subdued as cooler temperatures, misty mornings and that endless drizzle welcomes us back. Something amazing comes with this glorious fall weather: the thick, loamy mud that makes our trails so legendary and our riders so competent. Mud translates to fun times and brings the feeling of satisfaction when rolling off the trail absolutely filthy. However, grime is not good for your bike, and while the garden hose method might get the mud off, it can also rinse off the necessary lubricants, as well as potentially allowing water into the frame. Beyond the hose and some other useful tools, all you need is a little time, a lot of degreaser, and a cold beer in hand. With this treatment, your bike will be as happy to play in the mud as you are.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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DISC BRAKES

Tools: • Isopropyl alcohol (70–90 percent) • Clean paper towels When cleaning disc brakes, isopropyl alcohol is the only product you should allow on the calipers, pads and rotors. Other fluids can contaminate the system and cause damage. Heavily spray alcohol all over the brake parts and then wipe them off with a clean paper towel. Sometimes you can quiet a squeaking brake just by doing this. Pad brakes are less sensitive and usually just wiping them off with a wet rag is sufficient.

SUSPENSION FORKS AND SHOCKS

Tools: • A damp rag • Fork oil When cleaning the suspension of your bike, be sure to use only a damp rag. Many household cleaners can deteriorate the rubber seals within your fork and shock, so to play it safe, stick to water and wipe gently to avoid scratching the stanchions. After cleaning, it is a good idea to rub a little fork oil back onto the stanchions to keep them lubricated. You can do this with your fingertips, working the oil into the seals where the stanchions meet the lowers of the fork and the connector pieces of the shock.

Maple Falls

DRIVETRAIN

Tools: • Toothbrush or coarse bristled brush • Degreaser • Rags • Chain lubricant (lighter lube for summer, heavier for rainy weather) For the front and rear derailleurs, simply use a brush to scrub off any buildup. Degreaser may be necessary for heavy buildup. For the cassette, a toothbrush comes in handy when cleaning gunk out from between the cogs. For the chain rings, just brush off the teeth and wipe the crank arms with a rag to make them shiny. When cleaning the chain, start by spinning the crank arm backwards while holding a rag sprayed with degreaser directly onto the chain for a few full rotations. Once the chain is clean, dribble on chain lubricant while spinning backwards for a few rotations to allow the lube to coat the chain completely. If you are not going to be riding for 24 hours, leave the lube to let it soak into the chain. If riding sooner, wipe the chain clean once again and your drivetrain will be sparkling!

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Time toHike

THREE FALL HIKES ON HIGHWAY 542 BY OLIVER LAZENBY

all might be the best season for hiking in the mountains. Snow is long gone, mosquitos are dead and the short growing season in the meadows comes to a close, making the high elevations feel more remote than in summer. But the best part is the color. Plants stop photosynthesizing and the green chlorophyll that converts sunlight to food fades away and is replaced with a wine-red hue. The color show on Highway 542 is put on mostly by the Vaccinium family, which includes huckleberries and blueberries. Their foliage blankets meadows in a deep scarlet, a dramatic precursor to the snowflakes that follow. Fall in the mountains is also brief. One October snowstorm can put an end to autumn, so hikers have to beat the snow. Fortunately, the high country along Highway 542 has an abundance of ridges and peaks that turn red when the days get short. Note: To park at the trailhead for all these trails, you’ll need a Northwest Forest Pass, which are sold at the Glacier Public Service Center.

HIGH DIVIDE (Excelsior Pass to Welcome Pass) Length: 11.5 miles (car or bike shuttle required) Elevation gain: 3,500 feet Directions to trailhead: From milepost 45 on Highway 542, go north on Forest Road 3060 (this road is primitive and rough) for 1 mile to the Welcome Pass trailhead and stash a bike or park a car at the trailhead. To get to the trailhead for Excelsior Pass, head back west on Highway 542 to a pull off at mile 41.2. The hike: For scarlet leaves, it’s hard to beat the High Divide – a long ridge on the north side of the highway. Hikers can get to the divide from several trailheads, but an unbeatable way to see the lofty ridge is a one-way trip from Excelsior Pass to Welcome Pass that maximizes your time in the church of high elevation. Transportation from one trailhead to the next is necessary to make the 11.5-mile, one-way hike. Two cars will do the trick, but a bike stashed at the trailhead is a more stylish option. If you stash a bike at the Welcome Pass trailhead and drive back downhill to the Excelsior Pass trailhead, the pedal back to the car at the end of the hike is mostly downhill (though there is one substantial hill to climb) and about 6 miles long. You’ll earn the mostly-downhill bike ride at the trip’s end with a 3,500-foot, 4-mile climb from the highway to Excelsior Pass, at the west end of the High Divide. It’s worth it for the long, gentle ridge walk. The trail east along High Divide from Excelsior Pass and Excelsior Mountain has little change in elevation, ample fall color and expansive views the whole way. Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Tomyhoi Peak, Mount Larrabee and the border peaks are some of the highlights.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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SKYLINE DIVIDE Round trip: 4 miles to the divide and back, 10+ miles to the end of the trail at Chowder Ridge. Elevation gain: 1,500 feet Directions to trailhead: Turn right onto Glacier Creek Road (Forest Road 39) 0.7 miles past the Glacier Public Service Center. Then, immediately turn left onto Forest Road 3. Follow this road for 12.6 miles to the trailhead. The hike: With its high gardens of wildflowers in summer, berries and red foliage in the fall, and views of Mount Baker year-round, Skyline Divide is good in any season. Fall offers a chance to roam the popular ridge with a few less people than usual. The hike starts in oldgrowth forest on a wide and uniform trail that contours for 2 miles up to the divide. The view from this northernmost part of the divide is as good as any on the hike, and it’s a fine spot to turn around for a short hike. The trail continues south on Skyline Divide, undulating over gentle knolls, all the way to Chowder Ridge on the northern flank of Mount Baker. What’s divided by Skyline Divide? That depends how far you look. Slopes on either side of the divide drop off for thousands of feet toward Deadhorse Creek to the east and Thompson Creek to the west. Further afield, and with the right light, you can the Salish Sea on one side and into the heart of the North Cascades on the other. On your way south on the divide, there’s one important junction to watch for. At 3.3 miles from the trailhead, the trail forks. The left path appears much more popular, but it veers off of the ridge and dead ends in a mile or so at Deadhorse Creek. It’s a good place to camp with water all summer, but for views and fall color go right. The path is steep and loose after the junction but soon levels out and becomes easy to follow. Get as close to Mount Baker as you like before retracing your path to the trailhead.

NOOKSACK CIRQUE Length: 10 miles to the cirque and back Elevation gain: 1,500 feet Directions to trailhead: Travel east on Highway 542 for 12.5 miles past the Glacier Public Service Center. Turn left on Hannegan Pass Road #32. Follow Road #32 just over 1 mile to the junction with Nooksack Cirque Road #34. Follow Road #34 for 1 mile to the parking area at the end of the road. The hike: To explore more high country colored red by the Vaccinium family, try Heliotrope or Ptarmigan Ridges. For something different, head for Nooksack Cirque – a rock basin adorned with hanging glaciers that forms the headwaters of the North Fork Nooksack River. What makes it different? After 3.6 miles, the gentle Nooksack Cirque Trail disappears and you’ll have to pick your way up a gravelly riverbed for two more miles to reach the cirque. This walk up the riverbed requires countless stream crossings (don’t even try to keep your feet dry) and with the early snow melt and dry summer, low flows should make hiking to the cirque this fall easier than usual. Ruth Creek separates the Nooksack Cirque Trail from the trailhead. Cross its icy water on a logjam or ford the knee- to waist-deep water. Curmudgeonly hikers know creek crossings are a fail-safe way to leave the crowds behind; solitude is the reward for wet feet. Once across, hunt for a ribbon of trail leading southeast into the woods. The trail starts out with easy walking on an old roadbed. The path narrows at the boundary of the Mount Baker Wilderness, just over 3 miles from the parking lot. Continue through oldgrowth hemlocks until the trail ends at the edge of the river, about 3.6 miles from the trailhead. The braided river meanders from one side of its gravelly bed to the other, requiring frequent stream crossings. Fording the channel is easy at first, but the river gets narrower and faster toward the cirque. Trekking poles make crossing the creek easier. When the stream finally becomes impassable, stop to admire the rocky basin and the glaciers slowly whittling it deeper.

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: DOMINGO LOERO CATCHES A PEELING WAVE NEAR LA PUSH / RYAN HASERT. TRAIL RUNNING AT TEDDY BEAR COVE/ GARRETT GROVE. LARS STERNBERG DRIFTS A BERM AT GALBRAITH / BRANDON SAWAYA. AMY GRAFSTROM STAR JUMPS IN THE N. CASCADES / RYLAN SCHOEN. DAYLIGHT FADES NEAR LA PUSH / GARRETT GROVE. FALL HIKE IN THE N. CASCADES / GRANT GUNDERSON.

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: TOM FORD RIDES THROUGH MUD AT STEVENS PASS / JASON HUMMEL. MOUNTAIN GOATS IN THE ENCHANTMENTS / ANDY PORTER. RIDING TRAILS EAST OF THE CASCADES / GARRETT GROVE. CHANGE OF SEASONS AT COLCHUCK LAKE / JASON HUMMEL. TRAIL RUNNING THROUGH MIST IN THE N. CASCADES / GARRETT GROVE. CREEK OFF HIGHWAY 542 / RYLAN SCHOEN.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Langara Island: CANADA’S SALMON FISHING MECCA STORY AND PHOTOS BY MATTHEW GRUCHEY

ummertime on the British Columbia coast is an exciting time for sport fishers. Massive agglomerations of all five Pacific salmon species move in from the open ocean toward the continental landmass to begin an incredible journey to their natal rivers, feeding prolifically along the way. Though many areas along the province’s coastline afford a great chance to experience this renowned recreational fishery, perhaps one of the most scenic, remote and productive locations is Langara Island, located just miles from the Alaskan border in northwestern British Columbia. Reaching the island typically involves a 90-minute flight from Vancouver International Airport to Haida Gwaii (previously the Queen Charlotte Islands), a distance of 600 miles. From there, access to tiny Langara Island at the northernmost tip requires a 20-minute helicopter ride or hour-long boat trip. Accommodation is limited to four fishing lodges, all of which cater in different degrees to both the diehard sport fisher and luxury-seeker. Regardless of the lodge, any guest is certain to be awestruck by the remoteness of Langara, a natural paradise where ancient coastal rainforests, prolific marine life and world-class fishing are part of the daily experience. In terms of biodiversity, few fishing destinations offer an experience quite like Langara. In addition to the numerous Steller sea lions, harbor seals, dolphins and porpoises one commonly encounters, large numbers of grey and hump-

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

back whales use the area as a feeding ground during their northerly migration. It is an impressive sight to witness small groups of pink salmon breaching the surface of the water to feed on massive bait balls of herring and sand lance in a spectacle known as bubble feeding. Equally as impressive, albeit irritating, is the manner in which gigantic Steller sea lions, sometimes weighing over 2,000 pounds, steal a hooked salmon from a line and thrash it about on the surface of the water. After a few times during a day of fishing, however, the sight loses much of its novelty. Black oystercatchers, coastal cormorants and even the occasional peregrine falcon are among the array of birds that can be seen around the island, and bald eagles frequently swoop down from their lofty perches to snatch salmon from the water. Langara is a wilderness photographer’s paradise, and any visitor who spends just a few hours on the water with a camera is sure to leave with some impressive shots. Even if one decides to stay on land, the pristine rainforests in the area provide impressive photographic opportunities. Massive stands of old-growth Sitka spruce and western red cedar shoot up from moss-covered undergrowth, giving testament to the incredible age of these temperate rainforests. While the natural beauty of Langara Island is undoubtedly unique, it is the astounding concentration of Pacific salmon that attracts visitors from all around the world. Not only

do cold waters and abundant food sources make the island attractive to salmon, but its positioning at the beginning of their migratory route to southerly natal rivers ensures a healthy concentration of all five Pacific species in the area. And sure, large numbers of fish occupy the surrounding waters, but the sheer size and vigor of these fish is something that sets them apart from any other fishing locale on the west coast of Canada. From the acrobatics of the Coho salmon to the pure strength of the mighty Chinook, the sport fishing is unparalleled. It doesn’t hurt either that the salmon harvested on Langara is some of the highest quality table fare that a seafood lover could imagine. All four lodges offer quality packaging and flash freezing, so the fish goes from the sea to the boat and into the freezer. It’s hard to beat a thick steak from a Chinook salmon that you caught yourself. The experience of getting away from the busy city and into the wild is always a pleasure in itself, but having the ability to witness incredible spectacles of nature and enjoying a worldclass fishery at the same time makes Langara Island an unrivaled summer fishing destination. Largely untouched by the forces that have depleted fisheries in more southerly locales and blessed with some of Canada’s most pristine rainforests, Langara is as attractive to the avid photographer as it is to the enthusiastic angler. Once you make it up to Langara, you’ll be hooked.

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f you attend enough trade shows it starts to look like “same stuff, different year.” Undoubtedly, the essence of why we play outdoors is to tap into our inner child – especially in winter. Give kids a piece of plastic and a snowy slope and soon they’ll be sliding down it. So why are we are led to believe that we need the latest and greatest widget? Certainly a day in the mountains with good friends is just as enjoyable on a ski or board of some vintage as it is on the latest model. For me, it boils down to maximizing enjoyment. Those days, hours and minutes in the outdoors become ever more precious as the years tick by. My gear room is full of well-worn goods that contain memories no new piece of gear could replace, yet every year I have an item or two that should be replaced due to advancing age. While traipsing through Snowsports Industries America’s annual trade show in Denver this last January I was again confronted with the reality of “same stuff, different year,” but I was also reminded that someone, somewhere out there will have gear that needs to be replaced. These are the standouts from my viewpoint.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

MSRP: $850 Lengths available: 170 cm, 177 cm, 184 cm, 191 cm I like narrower skis. Go to Mt. Baker Ski Area on any given day and watch instructors who have attained PSIA Level III certification. Look at what these folks are skiing on, even on the biggest powder day. Guaranteed it will be a board of under 100 mm underfoot, and that advanced crew moves like silk in the wind over groomers, through trees and through the deepest manke. While skiing the Pinnacle 95 at the SIA on-snow demo at Copper Mountain, it reminded me of a more agile, more nimble version of many other popular skis that are wider underfoot and sport the same silhouette. It is even light enough to tour on. It could be a great one-ski for your quiver for skiers who prefer a sharper nail to a bigger hammer.

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MAMMUT RIDE SHORT PROTECTION AIRBAG FOR WOMEN MSRP: $899.95 for the pack. Air cartridge $200 Volume: 28L While fan-operated avalanche airbag systems have been widely loved in media, we are seeing from recalls and failures that the system still needs refinement. That leaves compressed air as the tool for the job. Mammut has been a leader in the category. Getting Mammut’s Protection Airbag System, which provides superb neck and head protection when inflated, to fit shorter torsos has been challenging as the stowed bag occupies significant volume in the shoulder straps of the pack. By tweaking the pattern of the airbag and pack, Mammut has been able to make it fit women and smaller men while still providing full protection.

G3 SCAPEGOAT CARBON SPLITBOARD MSRP: $849.95 Lengths: 158 cm, 162 cm, 166 cm Carbon rocks. It brings new life to every recreational tool from fly rods to cycling shoes. G3’s pow-specific Scapegoat embraces carbon to make a lighter (5 lbs, 13 ozs at 158 cm) and more durable tool for backcountry riders. While G3 has introduced a slew of interesting new skis and boards for 2015, the Scapegoat Carbon drew my attention because it is more power specific, a plus for those ripping up the Baker backcountry.

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THULE ROUNDTRIP DOUBLE SKI ROLLER AND BOOT BAG: MSRP: Rolling Ski: $239.95. Boot Backpack: $99.95 Ski bag length: 195 cm Boot bag volume: 3,477 cu. in. / 57 L In the grand scheme of things, toting your gear shouldn’t be that hard, and is a great “first world” problem to have. However, when plans call for multiple airports and two pairs of skis, good luggage is almost as important as any technical piece of gear. For years I have been a huge fan of Thule’s luggage. Their success lies in good organization, robust materials and their own wheel kit – which is the heart of any rolling piece of luggage. While virtually all other brands have relied on stock wheel kits already available in Asia, most of which are not designed to go anywhere outside of an airport or a hotel’s marble floors, Thule bit the bullet to design and implement their own extremely robust wheel kit. Thule created their pieces from the ground up.

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FLYLOW GENIUS JACKET MSRP: $400 Polartec Neoshell is my favorite waterproof/breathable material for high-output activities in the Pacific Northwest. Neoshell provides superior breathability compared to many other waterproof/breathable fabrics, and Flylow is one of the earlier adopters of Neoshell. Prior to the Genius jacket, Flylow never seemed to hit the mark for backcountry users. While its Labcoat was hugely popular, it placed cargo pockets squarely where a pack’s hip harness should rest – a design fail in my book. With the Genius, Flylow remedied that and created a Neoshell garment that will serve snowsliders equally well in all four seasons, and did so with a waterproof/breathable jacket that is extremely lightweight. The weight of the 2016 model was not available as of press time, but it is on the lower end of the spectrum for a full-featured backcountry hard-shell. The Genius mates with Flylow IQ Pants.

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FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

NOW WE’RE COOKING

with Fire BY JASON D. MARTIN

used to hate campfires. They’re dirty. They make your clothes smell bad. They’re a lot of work. And they’re kind of dangerous. But then I started camping with my children and I rediscovered the fun, warmth and social value of a campfire. Indeed, after my daughter became a Girl Scout and went to a seminar on campfire cuisine, I once again became acquainted with the joy of cooking over an open fire. It can be daunting though. The first time you actually push it and try to cook something even mildly complex over a fire, you’re likely to end up with a meal that’s raw on one side and burned on the other. But like anything else, campfire cooking takes practice, and to get really good at it, you’re going to have some minor disasters. If you bring a little bit extra of everything, then the inevitable mistake will not result in someone going hungry, but with a better final product. It should be noted that when we talk about cooking over a fire, what we’re really talking about is cooking over coals.

A bonfire might be fun, but it’s too hot and too uncontrolled to effectively cook anything. The skilled campfire cook will build a fire and then let it burn down to coals with limited flames. Coals can be more easily manipulated than flames, and it’s much easier to control the heat. If you intend to cook on a stick or on a grill, it’s not a bad idea to bring your own. Outdoor stores sell metal skewers for cooking and you can find a grill grate almost anywhere, though some are available specifically for campfire cooking. When looking for metal skewers, select a brand that is long enough to keep your hand far away from the fire. Several on the market are quite short, placing your hand uncomfortably close to the coals. You should avoid cooking on the grates attached to campground fire pits for two reasons. First, the bars are too far apart to easily cook on and things can easily fall through. And second, some people think it’s fun to put out fires with urine. This inevitably results in pee on the grates, which will

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likely give your food a little bit of spice, but it might not be the kind that you’re looking for. Campfire cooking is dirty. The bottoms and sides of pots and pans become coated in black carbon, something that doesn’t easily wash off, but seems to get on everything. Consider using cast iron skillets, heavy-duty pots and Dutch ovens that you designate for camping. I have a specific plastic box that I keep these in for travel so that they don’t get carbon on camping equipment that doesn’t need black camouflage. These cooking implements might seem heavy, but you shouldn’t have to worry about weight. Campfire cooking – and campfires for that matter – should be reserved for front-country campgrounds and designated fire pits. Camp stoves are far more appropriate for the backcountry. It’s not uncommon to cook directly on the coals. A Dutch oven can be placed directly in the coals, and so can root vegetables like potatoes and turnips (wrapped in foil). Dutch ovens are heavy enough that one can place coals on top of the

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oven as well as underneath it and on the sides. There are three levels of skill to the art of campfire cooking. At the beginner level, one cooks on sticks or maybe on a grill over the fire. We’ve all done this with hot dogs and marshmallows. Some of us have cooked hamburgers or steaks over an open fire. And a few of the more adventurous of us have experimented with shish kabobs and just about anything else that we can skewer or grill. At the intermediate level, you discover tinfoil. Not for hats to keep the aliens out of your head, but for food to keep heat and moisture in while you cook. Here is where you start to cook potatoes or maybe processed food like hot pockets; perhaps you cook cinnamon rolls in foil containers. You might experiment with hamburgers or fish. Perhaps you try corn on the cob, muffins or even some kind of stew. Tinfoil is your friend, and a solid intermediate fire cook should be able to figure out a way to heat up just about anything in it. At the advanced level, you’re actually cooking real food over a fire. You’re so dialed in that people might not realize you didn’t have a full kitchen at your disposal during the food prep. What they may not

realize as they watch you cook your gourmet camp dinner is that you did have a full kitchen to prep. The key to this highest level of campfire skill is pre-trip preparation. The more you do at home, the easier it will be in the field. Advanced-level cooks chop everything that needs to be chopped ahead of time. They pre-mix everything that needs to be mixed ahead of time. They marinade meats and pre-cook touchy elements of their meals ahead of time. Then they freeze everything that can be frozen and put it in a cooler. In other words, they think ahead. If cooking is an art, then cooking over fire is an ancient art. People have been cooking over fires since time immemorial. But they probably haven’t been cooking s’mores and marinated meats that long. And they probably weren’t drinking craft beer while they were doing it. This is where the ancient art of fire cooking becomes modern art. This is where we experiment with all the comfort foods we love from home and see what works and what doesn’t. It’s where outdoor cooking becomes incredibly fun. I can’t believe I used to hate campfires…

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Adventures

CYCLOCROSS BY SPENCER PAXSON

lpinist Fred Beckey once said of mountaineering, “an adventurous goal helps one discover those essential human qualities – curiosity, patience, fear, alertness, willpower, bodily energy… a sense of control over one’s destiny.” It’s a stock concept for anyone with a penchant for thrills in the tall mountains, deep forests and rugged coastlines for which the Pacific Northwest is so well known. In this part of the world, it often seems that adventure is necessarily rangebound to places far from the front door – epic alpine mountain bike trails or towering couloirs and snowfields of the North Cascades. It might also seem that those big adventures must be put on pause as boundless summer days fade into autumn. Pause not! With the shorter, colder, wetter days comes a new, perhaps unexpected, realm of adventure: the cyclocross course. “You will come to make new friends, challenge yourself and form a smile – hopefully a muddy one!” said head race promoter Ryan Rickerts of the Cascade Cyclocross Series. If you know anything about cyclocross, an autumn and winter discipline of off-road bike racing, you know it is also a great place to come for discovering those “essential human qualities” of which Beckey speaks. CURIOSITY. You wonder what it will take to stay upright on a skinny-tired bicycle with bent handlebars while careening over slippery, muddy trails, sand pits and wooden barricades. How challenging can the organizers make the course on the seemingly harmless terrain of a city park or grassy field? What’s it like to race a bike in the snow? Cyclocross sparks curiosity among beginners, but even seasoned expert riders sometimes wonder what the hell they’re doing. PATIENCE. You steadily master the techniques of the sport. You learn to dismount your bike at speed, jump over wooden barriers and leap back onto the seat, all in one smooth,

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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fluid motion. It takes time and a lot of epic failures to get it right. You also practice patience as you spend an hour cleaning mud and grass out of your gears when the race is done. FEAR. You contemplate the sensation of throttling your legs and lungs for the next 30 to 60 minutes. Or maybe it’s the sinewy-looking riders in their coordinated spandex outfits who look intimidating. Don’t worry; they’re like you, just more dorky looking, and they are probably happy to offer advice or a clean towel at the end of the race. ALERTNESS. You wash the mud from your lips and your senses sharpen with the first crisp, foamy taste of the “beer-handup” from the raucous, devoted spectators. That is, if the venue allows for this subversive yet popular cyclocross tradition to shine through. WILLPOWER. You overcome the urge to stay in bed and begrudgingly hoist yourself into action on a soggy, shivery Saturday morning. You slam a cup of coffee and join your friends for the next race of the series. BODILY ENERGY. The analgesic and addicting effect of post-exercise endorphins rush through your body at the end of the race – you feel good, albeit very dirty, no matter how you’ve done on the results sheet.

SENSE OF CONTROL OVER ONE’S DESTINY. This might be a stretch, but as with

any athletic pursuit, cyclocross just might inspire within you a sense of special powers that you had not previously known. It’s

worth a shot. The Cascade ‘Cross Series returns in 2015 for a five-race series in the Whatcom and Skagit County area. Organized by cycling connoisseur Ryan Rickerts and a host of dedicated volunteers, the Cascade ‘Cross focuses primarily on course quality and a friendly scene. Competition ranges from first-timers in the “C Category” to intermediates in the “B Category” to seasoned experts in the “A Category.” Some weekends will even feature sparring sessions between some of Bellingham’s resident pros, such as Courtney McFadden and Steve Fisher. Races cost $30 for adults, $15 for juniors. The series is a mainstay for the local cycling community during the winter months, and is hopeful of expanding to attract more participants from Vancouver and Seattle. For more information, visit the race series website at cascadecross.com.

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FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

CLIMBING ICELAND’S HIGHPOINT BY AUBREY LAURENCE

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t 3 a.m., I peeled back the room-darkening shades to reveal the objective of our day: Hvannadalshnúkur (pronounced kvah-nuh-doll-shnooker, more or less), Iceland’s highest peak. From our hotel room, I did a quick scan of the hulking mountain, which stretched for many miles across the horizon. Clouds obscured the summit, but the weather looked stable, so I knew our climb would be on. I was worried how my wife and I would do, though, because neither of us could get our jet-lagged minds to sleep for even a moment during the previous eight hours. Throughout the night, I kept trying to convince myself that the remaining hours, then minutes, would be enough rest. But time ran out on that frustrating exercise, and it was time to get up and eat our peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for breakfast. Many times before, we had climbed big mountains with little sleep the night before, which is quite common in mountain climbing. But neither of us had attempted a big mountain without any sleep at all. I thought two days would be enough time to adjust to the seven-hour time change, especially after an easy, seven-hour direct flight from Vancouver, but apparently I was wrong. On the previous day, we met our guide Védís of Icelandic Mountain Guides (IMG), and she briefed us about the climb. Even though Núkur, as it’s nicknamed, is not a technically difficult mountain, we decided to go guided for two reasons. First, we knew the local guides would have an intimate knowledge of the not-so-straightforward route, plus they would know the current snow and crevasse conditions, not to mention the local weather patterns. Second, we needed at least one other person for the roped portion of the climb. The downside of going guided, however, is that your summit chances are dependent on the other people on your team. If one person can’t go on, everyone has to go back down. At 5 a.m. the next morning we met Védís and the rest of our team. Kevin was from North Carolina and Pat was from Scotland. Another couple had backed out the day before after learning the grueling details of the climb. An IMG guide who had climbed the mountain on the previous day reported abnormally soft snow, so he recommended we bring snowshoes. I overheard the dreaded word, and I could already feel the extra weight bearing down on my soul. Whether they were on my back or my feet, I knew snowshoes would make the 14-mile round trip much more difficult. In the perpetual light of June, and at a latitude equal to Fairbanks, Alaska, we started up the steep and rocky trail. Kevin and Pat started out fast, so there was no easing into the day.

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Hvannadalshnúkur only reaches 6,923 feet (2,110 meters) into the North Atlantic sky, but the trailhead is not far above sea level, so you pretty much climb the entire mountain. A few thousand feet above sea level, we finally reached the snow line. The angle of the slope was gentle yet relentless. The sea of white was only broken by patches of black lava rock, just like the “north of The Wall” in the HBO show, “Game of Thrones,” much of which was filmed in Iceland. As we climbed, the snow became deeper and softer, and it had a consistency somewhere between a snow cone and a Slurpee. When we hit the toe of the glacier, we roped up and donned our snowshoes. I was glad to have the weight off my back, but now my feet weren’t so happy. With each step, slushy snow accumulated on the tops of my snowshoes, adding even more weight to lug up the mountain. On the bright side, the weather appeared to be holding, the scenery was incredible, I was actually feeling pretty good and I finally got my stepping and breathing into a delightful alignment. But then Kevin had to stop for one break after another, and my flow was continually broken. It was clear his fast pace at the beginning of the hike was catching up with him. I became concerned that we might not make it to the top. Pain and suffering for long periods of time is actually a big part of mountain climbing. When new climbers realize this, they either quit climbing or they accept the price of admission to this amazing activity. Assuming you’re not endangering yourself or others by pushing yourself too hard, the pain is just temporary. Memories of experiences like this, however, last a lifetime. I’m not going to sugarcoat things, though. This was a brutal climb. Beyond its long distance, major elevation gain and challenging snow conditions, temperatures swung wildly throughout the day from sweltering heat to stinging cold. When we finally reached the base of the last pitch to the summit, we swapped our trekking poles and snowshoes for ice axes and crampons. I felt much more at home with this setup. As we slowly made our way up the steep slope, Kevin repeatedly stopped, hunched over and stood in silence. Once again, I thought our climb was over, but this time we were just hundreds of feet from the top. Fortunately, he continued to move, albeit at a crawl’s pace. Meanwhile, a thick fog swarmed around us, significantly reducing visibility and blanketing us with cold, damp air. Kevin didn’t say much, but when I heard him blurt out some sort of four-letter word, I knew something wasn’t right. When I looked up from the back of the rope team, I could only see his upper half. He had fallen into a crevasse up to his waist. I anchored my axe and waited for him to wrench himself free, but he wasn’t able to pry his leg out. Védís ended up having to backtrack and dig him out with a shovel.

Just over 5 feet tall, Védís was young, thoughtful and soft spoken, but those traits belied her physical toughness and pragmatic, cool-and-collected attitude. I felt lucky to have her on our team. After about seven hours of slogging – and taking more breaks than I’d prefer – we reached the top of Iceland. A stubborn cloud blocked our views, but none of us seemed to mind much. Hvannadalshnúkur sits on the northwest crater rim of Öræfajökull, Iceland’s largest active volcano. Even though Öræfajökull is a massive mountain, it is only a small part of Vatnajökull, which is the largest glacial ice cap in Europe by volume (it averages 1,300 feet thick) and the second-largest ice cap in Europe by area (with 3,100 square miles of ice). Vatnajökull is so large it makes up 12 percent of Iceland’s surface area. That endless ice cap would have been a nice sight to see, but I felt fortunate just to have made it to the top. With the weather rapidly turning for the worse, we didn’t spend much time up there. I had just enough time to perform my summit ritual (kiss my wife) and then snap a few photos. On our descent, Védís told us that Öræfajökull’s 1362 eruption was the most violent and explosive volcanic eruption in Iceland’s recorded history. This gave my sleep-deprived mind something to ruminate on during our five-hour descent. At one point, we experienced near whiteout conditions. The blowing snow was hypnotic, and my tired mind seemed to drift with it. But then I’d hear some thunderous cracks from nearby icefall, and my mind would jolt back to reality once again. By the time we made it back to the trailhead, I was wearing a T-shirt under a hot sun. Back at our hotel near Skaftafell, my wife and I forced down some fish and chips and a couple of beers, and then crashed hard. I think I slept with a smile on my face the entire night.

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FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

A Hundred Grand

SET NET SALMON FISHING IN BRISTOL BAY BY IAN FERGUSON • PHOTOS BY KRISTINA KURTZ

JULY 22

Every other wave sent a wall of green spraying over the bow. The electric bilge pump couldn’t keep up, and water was pooling in the stern. “Take the wheel,” Captain Jerry said, before digging a blue water cooler from under a pile of gear and using it to bail. We were halfway across Kvichak Bay in southwestern Alaska. Our 22-foot open aluminum skiff wallowed under a heavy load of camping and sockeye salmon fishing gear. I squinted into the wind, rain and spray, aimed toward Peterson Point, and cut into the big waves to keep us from swamping. The calmer waters of the Naknek River were still an hour away and we were burning through gas. I focused on the horizon and hoped for better weather. Jerry seemed unconcerned. “I don’t know why, but every year it decides to storm on the day we leave Graveyard Point,” he said. I looked back at the faint smudge of land on the otherwise blank horizon. Graveyard Point, a collection of disintegrating wooden buildings and machinery that was once a cannery, had been our home, and home to a hundred other fishermen, for the past six weeks. I could see the other boat far behind us, with Captain Kris, Mike and Caleb making slow but steady progress against the storm. Seven weeks ago, we were all strangers except for co-owners/operators Kristina and Jerome. Now, we were like a family. The season was over, and we were all looking forward to sleep, cold beers and the comforts of home.

SEVEN WEEKS EARLIER… JUNE 8

The flight into King Salmon was full of fishermen. Everyone was wearing Xtratuf rubber boots and Grundens rain jackets, and almost everyone was bearded and burly. I found Kris outside the tiny airport in her 1994 blue Ford Ranger. Not a single car was in the parking lot – just old pickup trucks. We drove the straight road across the tundra to Naknek, me asking dumb questions about the job I had been hired for, courtesy of Craigslist, and Kris smiling at my greenhorn questions and chain-smoking Capris. “I forgot to bring bug spray … is that going to be a

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

problem?” I asked. “We have enough bug spray for a small army,” Kris said with a laugh. “I will die before we ever run out.” We arrived at Red Salmon Cannery and thus began a twoweek purgatory of preparing for the sockeye salmon fishing season. We lived in a smelly bunkhouse with the rest of the set-net fleet. Kris and Jerry had one room and our crew of four shared another. We spent every day gathering gear from its various hid-

crabbing to seining, and makes good money dragging for pollock out of Kodiak in the winter months. He was looking for a relaxing summer job, and set netting for sockeye while living in an abandoned cannery sounded interesting. The night before heading out from Naknek to Graveyard Point, Mike and I went down to the dock to check on the skiffs, which were fully loaded and anchored offshore. We knew we were in for a tough season, with only the two of us to do the work of a four-man crew. “We are going to work our asses off,” Mike said. “But I’m telling you right now, we’re going to kill a lot of fish. We’re going to hit a hundred grand.” A hundred thousand pounds of fish is a lofty goal for a four-man set net crew, let alone the two of us, but Mike’s determination was contagious. There was no going back.

JUNE 24

ey-holes around Naknek, and staging, cleaning, repairing and re-staging it from sunup to sundown – a long day in the Alaskan summer. Jerry’s dog Jack, beers by the barrel fire at night and a wood-fired sauna behind the bunkhouse took the edge off, but the work was tough. By the end of two weeks, one guy was fired and another had quit, and the crew was down to Mike and me. Mike goes by many names: Nitro, Moose, they all seem to fit his 6'5", 260-pound frame. Early on he earned his nickname from the other set netters – The Viking – and from Kris: Godzilla. He looks like a rugged, wild Alaskan fisherman, but he’s friendly, humorous, laid back and extremely hard working. Mike has worked nearly every fishery in Alaska, from

The spawning run of sockeye salmon in Bristol Bay is one of the great spectacles of nature. Every summer, millions of salmon leave the deep ocean and travel hundreds of miles to spawn and die in the rivers where they were born. The run lasts a few weeks, and at its height the creeks and rivers of Bristol Bay seem to boil with fish. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game counts the fish escaping upriver and opens the fishery only when they are sure a healthy amount of fish will make it to the spawning grounds. Anyone caught fishing outside the open periods or outside their designated area is subject to major fines, and the authorities keep careful watch with boats, planes and helicopters. For this reason, Bristol Bay is often called the best-managed fishery in the world. The Bristol Bay sockeye fishery has two types of fishing: drift gillnetting and set gillnetting. Most of the annual catch is given over to drift gillnet boats, live-aboard vessels that drag long gillnets behind them. Set gillnetters operate along the shoreline using 20-foot aluminum skiffs to set stationary nets, held in place with anchors and buoys, perpendicular to shore. With a record run predicted for the season, Kris and Jerry knew we needed another crewmember to maximize our

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

catch. Mike knew just the guy – his nephew Caleb. After several phone calls, a missed flight and some taxi problems in the strange town of Naknek, Caleb made it to Red Salmon Cannery and we made a run across the bay to pick him up. Caleb was at first a little skeptical about the whole adventure, especially the cramped cannery quarters. When Mike assured him Graveyard Point was worth the trouble, Caleb smiled and shrugged ok. “It’s not like I can hitchhike my way out of here,” he said. A stylish, half-Mexican 19-year-old from Anchorage, Caleb has his uncle’s sense of humor and a quiet intelligence beyond his years. In other ways, he’s a typical 19-year old: focused on girls, looking to get new rims for his Tahoe and occasionally getting into trouble along with his friends. We were now a crew of three, with two solid captains and everything we needed for the season in place at Graveyard Point. If the fish came, we were ready.

JUNE 28

We had been in Graveyard Point about a week before we heard the announcement from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADFG) that our area would finally open to set netters. We geared up, loaded the boats and headed out of Graveyard Creek to the sites a few miles down the bay. With the net stacked cleanly in the bottom of the boat so as not to snag, Jerry maneuvered the boat up to the shore-side buoy. We hooked one end of the net onto the buoy, then used a sliding knot to tie the other end of the net to the running line, a 150-foot line connecting the shore-side buoy to the outside buoy. I stood in the bow holding on to the sliding knot, and Jerry drove the boat across to the outside buoy as the net unfurled out the back of the skiff. It sounds simple, but in tidal currents as fast and strong as the Colorado River, it takes coordination and timing to make a good set. Jerry had to drive fast to get to the outside buoy before the current put too much tension on the net, but not so fast that we couldn’t slide the knot or catch the buoy when we got there. Jerry is an expert skiff driver, and I learned my job pretty quickly. Kris and Mike were in the other boat fishing two nets set end-to-end, and Caleb would switch boats to help whoever needed him the most. It only took a few tides to learn that Kris’ shore-side net was the money net – the salmon love to cruise the shallow water, and they started slamming the net as soon as the tide flooded in. Depending on how hard the fish were hitting, we would either start picking fish right away or let the nets soak awhile. To pick up the net, Jerry drove up slowly as I reached down over the bow with a boat hook, snagged the net and pulled it up over the bow. We lifted the net onto a hydraulic power roller so it lay across the middle of the boat. We pulled net in one side of the boat while feeding it out the other side, stopping every few feet to pick fish, and moving the boat sideways as we worked from one end of the net to the other. Picking fish is an art and a science, and I learned from a master. If a fish was simply caught by its gills

in one mesh, it was no problem to flick it out of the net, but more often the fish would wrap themselves up in their struggle, hooking themselves multiple times and forming a heinous basket of web. Jerry was the basket weaver, flipping and spinning the net until the fish simply dropped to the deck. It took me awhile, but eventually I got “net-vision,” allowing me to see how to untangle the fish most efficiently. When the net was plugged with fish, it took teamwork to flip huge plugs of fish out of the net and apply tension or slack to make it easier for everyone else to pick their fish. Mike was a monster fish-picker, earning the Godzilla moniker by simply throwing the fish out of the net with brute strength. Caleb didn’t come to it right away. It took some lecturing from Jerry, but before too long Caleb was picking fish like a seasoned pro. For the first week of fishing, we were allowed to fish one tide per day – “gentleman fishing,” Kris called it. We had some big tides that first week, and when they finally gave us a 24-hour opener, we caught 11,000 pounds in one day of hard fishing. We delivered multiple times per tide to a tender boat, which uses cranes to lift and weigh bags full of fish before dropping them into a refrigerated holding tank. As the run started hitting full steam, the canneries limited the pounds we could deliver per tide. Eventually, Kris and Jerry decided to work only on Kris’ nets so we wouldn’t go over our limits. Nearly every tide we dealt with the inevitable curveballs fishing throws your way: tangled running lines, nets in the propeller, running aground or equipment failures. In the space of one tide, the pull cord for the hydraulic power pack, the outboard throttle cable and the trim switch all broke on Jerry’s boat. Luckily, after 15 years of this, Jerry can fix almost everything on the boat with minimal tools. The days flew by as our openers went up to 48 hours, then 72 and finally the escapement numbers were reached and we had open season. This was good and bad. It was good because we could fish all we wanted. It was bad because we wanted to fish all the time, and things like eating and sleeping were secondary to hitting our goal of 100,000 pounds. We would fish the flood, fish the ebb and come back to Graveyard for an hour or two of sleep before heading out again. Our lives depended on the tides, not the rising and setting sun.

JULY 15

At 2:45 a.m. the loud alarm perched next to my ear went off, and I sat up with a thousand-yard stare across the room at Mike, who stared right back. Caleb cursed. Jerry busted into the room, shirtless and bug-eyed, with hair standing up at all angles. “It’s time to feesh!” he yelled in a crazed, faux-Mexican accent. Kris was in the kitchen standing next to

the propane heater like it was her best friend in the world, and Jack was running around trying his best to convince us that he could fish even though he lacked opposable thumbs. We stumbled around chugging coffee, putting on our waders, rain gear, gloves and headlamps, and rolling a few last-minute cigarettes for the tide. We wolfed down whatever delicious leftovers were on the table and practically jogged down the long, broken boardwalk to the boats. For two weeks we fished every tide, then finally we missed a tide when everyone slept through five alarms from pure exhaustion. We were well on our way toward 100,000 pounds, but it was going to be close. At the the end of the season, Mike was the main motivator: “The fish are slamming. We need to get those nets in for the flood. We’re getting a hundy, bro!” Sleep deprivation set in. Once, Caleb and I sat at the table laughing for 10 minutes for no reason. Most of the crew got numb fingers from the sheer labor of pulling nets and picking fish. Tempers boiled over occasionally, with loud arguments, threats to quit and hurled insults. It’s inevitable when you’re working that hard for that long in tight quarters without any sleep. Things always calmed down when we got back on land. We ate like royalty. Kris and Jerry packed a freezer and boxes full of easy-to-prepare meals, and we hauled a kitchen’s worth of appliances, and the generator to power them, out to the cabin. Meatloaf, pulled-pork sandwiches and biscuits and gravy were the norm. We ate salmon in all forms. Mike made a mean ceviche, and taught me how to gut, fillet and smoke salmon, some of which I brought home.

END OF THE SEASON – JULY 22

The 2015 sockeye salmon run in Bristol Bay set records with a late and massive run. In the end, we caught 101,157 pounds. Everyone caught a lot of fish, but due to the large catch and various geopolitical factors, the canneries set a price of $0.50 per pound. For reference, the 2014 price was $1.25 per pound. Needless to say, there were a lot of disappointed fishermen at the bars in Naknek when we got back. It was an adventure. We tooled around the tundra on a four-wheeler for firewood-gathering missions. We hung out with the Biskey crew – a family from northern Minnesota who loved to drink beers and have a good time – and had a rowdy Fourth of July bonfire, complete with fire walking and wrestling that brought a crowd to the beach. We saw families of huge brown bears, beluga whales, seals and bald eagles. No one got hurt, although I still can’t feel my fingers. The biggest thing I got out of the trip was a lifelong friendship with four of the craziest, toughest Alaskans you’ll ever meet. Will I go back to Graveyard? At the moment it’s hard to imagine doing it again. Worked out hourly, I got paid less than minimum wage for the hardest work I’ve ever done. Even Mike said it’s the hardest job he’s ever had for the money. But commercial salmon fishing is always a gamble. Come April, I’m sure I’ll be missing Bristol Bay. And who knows? It could be a good year for salmon.

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Events - find more events and submit your own at mountbakerexperience.com SKAGIT FLATS MARATHON: September

SEPTEMBER

13, Burlington. Flat and fast marathon and half through Skagit Valley. More info: skagitflatsmarathon.com

LAKE PADDEN RELAY: September 5, Bellingham. Four people run 2.6 mile legs, or go solo. More info: gbrc.net

OKTOBERFEST AT CHUCKANUT BREWERY & KITCHEN: September 12, Belling-

NORTH COUNTY ROAD RUN: September 5, Lynden. 5k, 10k and 25k courses wind through scenic roads in Whatcom County. More info: northcountyroadrun.com

ham. Live music, games, specialty foods and a family-friendly festival of good beer. More info: chuckanutbreweryandkitchen.com

RUNNING TRAILS WITH THE M.I.G.:

FARM OPEN HOUSE: September 12, Bell-

September 5, Bellingham. Run Whatcom Falls Park with the “Men in green,” the Blaine Border Patrol. More info: blainemwr.com

HOMESTEAD 15K AND 5K: September

7, Lynden. Chip-timed event through downtown Lynden. More info: gbrc.net

BELLINGHAM BEER WEEK: September 11-20, Bellingham. Celebrate the exploding craft beer scene in Bellingham with events all week long. More info: bellinghambeerweek.com

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL:

September 11-13, Port Townsend. Celebrate the beauty, history and craftsmanship of wooden boats at the largest wooden boat festival in North America. Music, food, family fun and an incredible variety of wooden boats. More info: woodenboat.org

ktoberfest is a celebration of beer that has been an important part of Bavarian culture since 1810. From a small traveling folk festival in its early years, it has grown to the massive festival we know today: More than 6 million people from all over the world visit Munich every year to eat hard-to-pronounce German foods and quaff large quantities of Oktoberfest beer, brewed specially for the event by six regional breweries. Chuckanut Brewery and Kitchen in Bellingham has been brewing their own Oktoberfest style for years, so it’s only logical they should put on a festival to go along with it. This year, they’re finally doing it and they’re taking out all the stops. “It’s gonna be big,” said co-owner Mari Kemper. “The idea is to celebrate the harvest season and local craft beer with a big, family-friendly festival.” The brewery and restaurant on West Holly Street has ample space on their patio, back deck and inside, but they’ll also be closing off the gate to the parking lot to more than double their outdoor space. Fest-goers can listen to live music, participate in a yodeling contest and play lawn games like cornhole, ping-pong, ladders and basketball. Traditional German foods will be on the menu, and of course delicious, fresh-from-the-fermenters beer on tap. The beer menu will feature traditional German-style lagers, including a limited edition Northwest Local Lager, brewed for Bellingham Beer Week at Chuckanut Brewery by a coalition of Bellingham brewers. Much like the German breweries that work together every year to produce the traditional Oktoberfest beer, representatives from Aslan Brewing Co., Boundary Bay Brewery, Chuckanut Brewery, Gruff Brewing, Kulshan Brewing, North Fork Brewing, Stones Throw Brewing and Wander Brewing came together to produce this beer. It features local ingredients: malted barley from Skagit Valley (Alba and Copeland) and hops from Yakima (Cascade, Chinook, Amarillo and Mt. Hood). The brew promises to be mighty tasty, and will only be available on draught at taps around Bellingham starting September 11, the start of Bellingham Beer Week. Oktoberfest at Chuckanut is a kickoff for Bellingham’s annual weeklong celebration, which has a growing list of events including the popular Barleywood Squares, tap takeovers, a Session Fest and the Bellingham Traverse finish line at Boundary Bay Brewery. “We wanted to start the week with a statement, to celebrate Bellingham Beer Week and the work everyone has done all summer,” Kemper said. After a hard summer, what better way to celebrate than with a dimpled stein of tasty local beer and raucous sing-alongs with your friends and neighbors? Oktoberfest begins at noon and carries on into the evening. To see the full list of events, go to bellinghambeerweek.com.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

tember 19, Bellingham. Join a small group on a 10- or 20-mile trail run through the most spectacular alpine scenery in the North Cascades. Shuttle, guides, beverages and meal provided. More info: aspireadventurerunning.com

ingham. Come tour a working mushroom farm. More info: cascadiamushrooms. com

UNCORKED WOOLLEY WINE AND MUSIC FESTIVAL: September 12, Se-

dro-Woolley. Music, wine, car show and celebration in conjunction with Sedro-Woolley Founders’ Day. More info: sedro-woolley.com/events/uncorked

BULL-A-RAMA: September 12, Sumas.

Catch impressive bull riding and other rodeo events at the Rodeo Grounds in Sumas. More info: sumaschamber.com

FAIRHAVEN FARMERS MARKET: Sat-

Get Bavarian at Oktoberfest

EXCELSIOR TRAVERSE TRAIL RUN: Sep-

urdays 12-5 p.m., Fairhaven. Fresh local produce, fine local crafts and ready-to-eat food. More info: bellinghamfarmers.org

BOUNDARY BAY BLOCK PARTY: September 16, Bellingham. Celebrate the 20th anniversary of Boundary Bay Brewery. More info: bbaybrewery.com

BELLINGHAM TRAVERSE:

September 19, Bellingham. The multisport relay through Bellingham puts a big emphasis on fun. Run, mt. bike, road bike, kayak and trek your way to the finish line at Boundary Bay Brewery, solo or with friends. More info: recreation northwest.org CHUCKANUT CENTURY: September 20, Bellingham. A fully supported bicycle ride with hearty food stops and start and finish festivities. Choose from scenic 25, 38, 50, 62, 100 or 124-mile routes. More info: chuckanutcentury.org ISLAND QUEST ADVENTURE RACE: Sep-

tember 27, Orcas Island. Mountain bike, kayak and trek your way across local trails and waterways. The best route is up to you and your teammates. Six- and 12-hour races. Info: recreationnorthwest.org

TOUR DE WHIDBEY: Sep-

tember 19, Whidbey Island. Experience some of the most scenic vistas in Washington State on your road bike, with six fully supported routes from 30 to 100 miles to choose from. More info: whidbeygen.org

HOPPINGHAM: September 19, Belling-

ham. Celebrate Bellingham’s craft beer culture. More info: bellingham.com

BAKER LAKE CLASSIC: September 19, Baker Lake. Trail run through Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. More info: skagitultrarunners.com STATION TO STATION 5K: September 19, Ferndale. Family-friendly event benefits local police and firefighters. More info: skagitrunners.org MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

5Point Film Festival

F OCTOBER

NOVEMBER MSP FADE TO WINTER: November 5, Bellingham. Ski film by Matchstick Productions at Aslan Brewing Co. to benefit local mountain rescue services. More info: skimovie.com

ROME STORE 100TH ANNIVERSARY: October, Bell-

ingham. The Historic Rome Store is celebrating their 100th year anniversary for the month of October. Check out the new deli and all the improvements at 2908 Mt. Baker Highway. More info: romegrocery. com BIKE MAINTENANCE 101 WITH MEC: October 1, North Vancouver. Learn to keep your bike in top form. More info: events.mec.ca

FRUIT FESTIVAL: October 3-4, Everson.

Live music, bridge, kids activities and tons of fresh fruit samples in the 26th annual fruit festival at Cloud Mountain Farm Center. More info: cloudmountainfarmcenter.org

MEET-UP TRAIL RUN: October 10,

North Vancouver. Meet up with a casual trail running group led by MEC staff. More info: events.mec.ca

SKI AND SNOWBOARD SWAP: October

15-17, Bellingham. Sell your used gear, and buy new and used gear at Bloedel Donovan Park. More info: komokulshanskiclub.com

HARVEST

DINNER:

October 17-18, North Cascades Institute’s Environmental Learning Center. “Rewilding the North Cascades” featuring Scott Fitkin, John Rohrer and Bill Gaines. More info: ncascades.org

WILD MUSHROOM SHOW: October 18, Bellingham. Check out wild mushrooms native to the northwest. More info: cascadiamushrooms.com

SKI MOVIE PREMIERE: FADE TO WINTER: No-

vember 5, Aslan Brewing Co. Bellingham. Drink tasty beers, watch a great ski film by Matchstick Productions, win swag and support local mountain rescue services. More info: mountbakerexperience.com

or three years, 5Point Film Festival has been coming to Bellingham in the form of a one night show. Their “On the Road” outdoor screening has been a major success each year, with scores of people bringing their lawn chairs to Depot Market Square to watch inspiring outdoor films. Due to the warm reception for their “On the Road” event, the Carbondale, Colorado-based company decided to make Bellingham its regional hub for the Pacific Northwest, choosing the small, adventurous community over Seattle and Portland. This year, they are bringing the main event – a weekend-long celebration of outdoor cinematography – to Mount Baker Theatre on October 16 and 17. 5Point stands for balance, commitment, purpose, humility, and respect. Each year, the organization produces a concert-like film and weekend event experience. “We try to help folks redefine adventure in their lives. We take away the ego driven adrenaline junkie side of it, and showcase the human spirit in an exciting and inspiring program,” said executive director Sarah Wood. 5Point Film Festival is more than a weekend event, and this festival in Bellingham is no tour stop. The team curates a special program with the community, showcasing local stories, artists, filmmakers and athletes from the area. They are also making a commitment to be a part of the larger conversation around recreational tourism and economic development in the outdoor industry. The weekend will not only consist of great short adventure films (over 30 for the weekend), but will also showcase art and stories through local performances bringing the films to life, as well as having some very special guests from the area. Bend, Oregon based filmmaker and professional outdoor photographer Ben Moon, from the award winning short “Denali,” is expected to be present, as well as Dirt Bag Diaries podcast host Fitz Cahall and filmmaker Becca Cahall from Seattle, to name a few. Other events around the weekend include a showcase of livable vehicles in a Van Life Rally. Converted vans, trucks, cars and more will gather to show off their rigs and celebrate the van life in the kickoff event in front of the Mount Baker Theatre. A youth adventure program will take place Saturday and it’s free for kids under 13, with free ice cream to follow. “We are creating a unique experience with Bellingham,” Wood said. “It is a great fit and we look forward to celebrating the best adventure stories with this vibrant community.” To get involved, sponsor, volunteer or to learn more, contact local organizer Dana Thornton, dana@5pointfilm.org and visit 5pointfilm.org/bellingham.

Check the weather and avalanche forecast at

www.nwac.us

MAP AND COMPASS NAVIGATION: No-

before heading out.

vember 8, North Vancouver. Learn to navigate by compass when traveling through the backcountry. More info: events.mec. ca

WARREN MILLER’S CHASING SHADOWS: November 13, Bellingham. Catch

the 66th edition of the iconic winter sports series, and witness the world’s best skiers and snowboarders on a breathtaking cinematic journey. More info: skinet. com/warrenmiller

MEC VANCOUVER RACE: November 15,

Vancouver. 5k, 10k and 15 run through Vancouver. More info: events.mec.ca

MEC SNOWFEST: November 21, Vancouver. All things snowsports in a family-friendly festival. More info: events. mec.ca

SEATTLE MARATHON: November 29, Se-

attle. Run or walk the iconic marathon or half. More info: seattlemarathon.com

MAKE EVERY TRIP A ROUND TRIP Become a member of the Northwest Avalanche Center and support the service.

MtBakerExp_quarterpage_ad.indd 1

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

11/3/14 3:42 PM

Where to Eat KEENAN’S AT THE PIER INSIDE THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA

ACME ACME DINER

2045 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-0150 acme-diner.com This ’50s-style diner’s friendly staff is ready to serve you great home-cooked food; fresh ground hamburgers, daily dinner specials, gluten free meals, pizza, espresso, homemade desserts and Acme ice cream.

BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL

974 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-2200 bluemountaingrill.com Fresh, homemade fare, including baked bread and desserts made daily, steaks and burgers. Open for lunch and dinner every day, and breakfast on weekends. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Twin Sisters.

BELLINGHAM BELLEWOOD ACRES

6140 Guide Meridian, Lynden 360/318-7720 bellewoodfarms.com Visit the distillery, farm, country store and bistro for artisan food products and Northwest gifts. Visit the website for a full list of entertainment and family activities.

BELLINGHAM BAR & GRILL

1408 Cornwall Avenue 360/733-2579 bellinghambarandgrill.com Whatcom County’s oldest bar and grill, serving steaks, burgers, seafood and appetizers. Full bar. Happy hour 4–7 p.m. daily. Sports entertainment, two shuffleboard tables and seven pool tables. Monday night karaoke.

BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY & BISTRO

1107 Railroad Avenue 360/647-5593 bbaybrewery.com In business since 1995, catering to locals and out-of-towners alike. Ten house brews on tap paired with a menu of fresh Northwest locally sourced pub food. Family friendly establishment with daily live entertainment.

CHUCKANUT BREWERY & KITCHEN

601 W. Holly Street 360/752-3377 chuckanutbreweryandkitchen.com Enjoy world-class, European-style, award-winning lagers and ales, and a local-centric menu of fresh American cuisine including woodstone pizzas, burgers, seafood, salads and more.

804 10th Street 360/392-5510 thechrysalisinn.com Featuring a seasonal menu, full bar and terrace bar open for happy hour every day, 3–6 p.m. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner daily with a view of Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands from every table.

KULSHAN BREWING CO.

2238 James Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery. Bring your own food or order from on-site food trucks at this neighborhood gem.

1538 Kentucky Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery. Bring your own food or order from on-site food trucks at this neighborhood favorite.

LUNA’S BISTRO

3004 Cinema Place 360/306-8676 lunasbistro.com Located next to Regal Cinemas. Serving pizza, pasta, seafood and steaks. Daily happy hour. Offering a large selection of wine, brews and cocktails. Prime rib night Thursday. Enjoy the outdoor patio.

TADEO’S AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD

207 E Holly Street • 360/647-1862 3040 Northwest Avenue • 360/733-3116 Food Truck at Meridian & Pole Rd • 360/815-6107 tadeosrestaurant.com Authentic and time-tested recipes, fresh ingredients and homemade tortillas. The result? A menu that bursts with flavor!

THE HISTORIC ROME DELI & GROCERY

2908 Mt. Baker Highway 360/592-5841 romegrocery.com Celebrating 100 years! Serving grilled paninis, soup, local produce and natural groceries. Craft beer and wine, espresso and fresh baked goods. Open 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Monday–Friday, 8 a.m.–9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

WESTSIDE PIZZA

7260 Cordata Parkway, Suite 107 360/756-5055 Pizza made with only the best ingredients available, and dough made fresh every day. The perfect place to stop after a long, hungry day of adventuring.

BURLINGTON SKAGIT’S OWN FISH MARKET

18042 Hwy 20 360/707-2722 skagitfish.com Offering the highest quality in local seafood. Daily lunch specials freshly prepared. Local jams, jellies, salsas, honey and sauces. Visit them on Facebook.

CONCRETE 5B’S BAKERY

45597 Main Street 360/853-8700 5bsbakery.com Skagit County’s premier bakeshop serving home-style breads as well as a full array of fresh baked goods and classic American desserts. Dedicated gluten free. Great food for everyone. Open 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.

ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION

44568 State Route 20 360/853-7227 anniespizzastation.com Family-owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare. Friendly service, helpful information and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.

DEMING THE NORTH FORK BREWERY AND BEER SHRINE

6186 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2337 northforkbrewery.com Looking for marriage or a pint of fresh ale and hand-tossed pizza? This pizzeria, brewery, wedding chapel and beer museum is your place! Open to all. Monday–Friday: dinner; Saturday– Sunday: lunch and dinner.

EVERSON HERB NIEMANN’S STEAK HOUSE RESTAURANT

a brew after a day on the mountain. Bands play weekends. Try the “Canuck’s Deluxe” pizza, a staff favorite. Open for lunch and dinner. Dine in or take out.

GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9883 Grab a stool at the legendary bar and enjoy rotating selections of fine craft beers, ciders and wine. New menu specials – appetizers, sandwiches and dinner.

MILANO’S RESTAURANT

9990 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2863 Offering fresh pasta dishes with local seafood and produce, plus a diverse selection of desserts. Milano’s is a Northwest staple in its 24th year of operation.

MILANO’S NIGHTS

9990 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2863 Next door to Milano’s Restaurant. Classic Italian cocktails and tapas menu. Nice selection of wine, beer and spirits.

WAKE ‘N BAKERY

6903 Bourne Street 360/599-9378 getsconed.com Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 5ish p.m. Serving breakfast burritos, quiche, soup, lunch wraps and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free options. Organic espresso and coffee. Indoor and outdoor seating. Dine in or take out.

FERNDALE TADEO’S AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD

Shell Station 1811 Main Street 360/366-8932 Authentic and time-tested recipes, fresh ingredients and homemade tortillas. The result? A menu that bursts with flavor!

OAK HARBOR FLYERS RESTAURANT & BREWERY

203 W. Main Street 360/966-2855 eversonsteakhouse.com Nestled in the middle of Everson, serving a mouth-watering array of steaks, Bavarian specialties, seafood and desserts to customers since 1993. Offers atmospheres for adults and families alike, including parties up to 50.

32295 State Route 20 360/675-5858 eatatflyers.com Voted the best of Whidbey 2015. Lunch and dinner daily, happy hour every day 2–6 p.m. Family-friendly with patio seating. Specializing in steak, seafood, burgers and pub fare. Twelve craft beers on tap.

GLACIER

RUSTICA

CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA AND BAR

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2511 chair9.com The perfect place to enjoy a great family meal or

670 SE Pioneer Way 360/675-4053 rusticacafe.com Oak harbor’s finest Italian-Mediterranean food. Lunch and dinner. Live music, wine tasting and Sunday jazz brunch.

PRUSSIK PEAK. PHOTO\ANDY PORTER

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Where to Stay ANACORTES SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE

12885 Casino Drive 360/588-3600 swinomishcasinoandlodge.com 98 luxurious guest rooms capture breathtaking views and the natural beauty of the Anacortes region. Local artwork, sumptuous bedding, stylish furnishings, glass-enclosed showers and complimentary Wi-Fi will ensure that your stay will be comfortable.

BELLINGHAM THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA

804 10th Street 360/756-1005 thechrysalisinn.com Each guest room overlooks a spectacular Northwest seascape. Spacious rooms feature fireplace, down comforters, luxury amenities and a two-person bath elegantly set in natural slate. Three distinctive room types offer increasing levels of luxury.

FERNDALE SILVER REEF HOTEL CASINO SPA

4876 Haxton Way 866/383-0777 silverreefcasino.com An award-winning hotel, casino and spa. Beautiful Mt. Baker views, complimentary breakfast and Wi-Fi. You’re sure to enjoy your stay.

MT. BAKER VIEW GUEST HOUSE

6920 Central Avenue 360/599-2155 mtbakerviewguesthouse.com The Guest House in downtown Glacier sleeps six; two bedrooms, hot tub, kitchen and games. Airstream Sally is also available for rent. Never raise rates for holidays and no cleaning fees. 7577 Canyon View Dr., Glacier Springs 360/599-2711 thelogs.com Cozy log cabins with kitchens and fireplaces.

SNOWATER RESORT AND CONDOMINIUMS

10500 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2724 snowater.org One and two-bedroom rentals available. Recreation centers with indoor pools and sauna. Indoor/ outdoor racquetball courts.

MAPLE FALLS BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS

GLACIER BLUE T LODGE

MT. BAKER LODGING

LUXURY GETAWAYS

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/398-9590 or 877/90-BAKER stayatmtbaker.com From mountain chalets to waterfront lodges, Luxury Getaways offers overnight accommodations in newly built vacation homes located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area. Perfect for hitting the slopes and relaxing.

NEWEST HOTSPOT

THE LOGS AT CANYON CREEK

7425 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2999 or 888/695-7533 bakeraccommodations.com Baker Accommodations offers cabins and condos in the resort developments of Snowater, Snowline and Mt. Baker Rim, conveniently located just east of Glacier.

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944 bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queensized beds, a full bathroom and private small patios as well as access to a meeting space.

Glacier’s

7463 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2453 or 800/709-7669 mtbakerlodging.com Mt. Baker Lodging offers cabins, condos, chalets and executive rental home accommodations. A number of selected units are pet friendly. Walkin reservations and one-night stays available.

WINTHROP CHEWUCH INN

223 White Avenue 800/747-3107 chewuchinn.com Guest rooms for romantic getaways, seasonal travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. The relaxed atmosphere of a B&B with the privacy of a hotel. Centrally located for an abundance of outdoor adventures in the surrounding wilderness areas.

Glacier has a new tapas and cocktail bar opening. Milano’s Nights is the creation of Sam Hassan, owner of Milano’s Restaurant and Maple Falls Distillery, and is located next door to the famous Italian eatery. Sam will be serving classic Italian cocktails along with a tapas menu. You’ll also find a nice selection of wine, beer and spirits.

MILANO’S NIGHTS • 9990 MT. BAKER HIGHWAY • 360-599-2863

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

Purple mountain misery ADVENTURES OF AN INDOOR ENTHUSIAST BY STEVE GUNTLI

e round a rocky switchback on the narrow trail and nature’s splendor unfurls before us. Treetops so tall they block the sun. Crystalline drops of dew cascading down from the mossy branches like manna from heaven. A glorious waterfall carving its way through the centuries-old limestone and falling, gracefully yet ferociously, into the chasm below. The Olympic National Forest, in its pure sylvan splendor, is putting on a show. And once again, I’m stuck out here, forced to look at it. You’d think my wife Nicole would have learned her lesson by now. Four years we’ve been together, and I’ve made every outdoor excursion insufferable. Why would this one be any different? Sure, we were touring the Olympic Peninsula to celebrate our one-year wedding anniversary, but hey, she knew what she was getting into, so why put on airs? But I suppose she did go out of her way to be accommodating. She chose a bed and breakfast in nearby Sequim that boasted a huge collection of classic movies we could rent free of charge in our downtime. She promised only two relatively short excursions into the dreaded wilderness: one to Sol Duc Falls and another to Hurricane Hill, with the caveat that we may take occasional detours if the mood struck. She let me choose the restaurants and dictate the music/podcasts we listened to on the drive. And she let me bring my crankiness pillow, into which I could bury my face and scream when the whole of God’s creation proved to have too few screens and inadequate Wi-Fi. We started our day early, which was the first sign it was going to be terrible. It’s a well-documented fact that nothing worth doing ever started before 8 a.m. We left the cozy confines of our lovely seaside bungalow (from which we witnessed a seagull successfully battle a bald eagle) and headed for the visitor center to pick up some maps and vital information before heading to Sol Duc Falls, a good hour and a half away. About an hour into the journey, Nicole exercised her right to convince me to pull off at Lake Crescent, a huge and almost unbelievably clean and clear body of water. My wife was convinced this would make an excellent photo opportunity for the article she knows I would eventually write about

this trip. And despite my protestations, the universe seemed determined to throw photo ops my way.

First we walked to the end of a jetty to take in the (and I really can’t emphasize this enough) ridiculously clear water in the lake. As if on cue, a family of ducks, including three or four calendar-worthy babies just learning to swim, paddled by. And then a rambunctious and photogenic teenage boy ran down the dock and dove headfirst into the water. And just in case I and the other random photographers out that day missed it the first time, he did it three more times for us.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

So OK, I grudgingly had to give Nicole points for that one. That was pretty cool. But then we got to Sol Duc and my mood turned sour once again. Yes, the park is beautiful, but I grew up in Colorado, very literally in the middle of the forest. My childhood home was 20 miles from the nearest gas station, and each bus ride to school was a twoand-a-half hour ordeal both ways. I spent my formative years surrounded by the best that Mother Nature had to offer, and I grew inured to big trees decades ago. I mentally checked my grouchiness gauge and found the needle had tipped past “curmudgeon” and was approaching “Andy Rooney,” so I made an effort to tone it down and Nicole and I headed up the trail. Nicole promised this wouldn’t be a long hike, but she’s a marathon runner; her perception of “long” is about 26 miles more than mine. I tried to lock her in to a specific number, but she remained noncommittal. I think her hope was the majesty of the trail would overwhelm me and I’d finally decide to be a trooper before she had to set a deadline. No such luck. The trail was nice as trails go. Lots of rocks, lots of trees, lots of rain. Somewhere along the way, the thought entered my mind that perhaps I’m the problem. Maybe the reason I get like this has nothing to do with the exercise or the changes in elevation and everything to do with the fact that being out here heightens the disconnect between myself and my perception of “normal.” “Normal” people seek out activities like this, take great solace and enjoyment from hiking and snowshoeing and running half-marathons. Maybe I get upset because trips like this just emphasize how alien I can feel at times, how removed I am from the norm, and that upsets me more than anything else. And then I think, “Nah. This is just dumb. Let’s go home.” The next day’s excursion to Hurricane Hill was much more fruitful. The drive was less arduous and the trail guide Nicole had snagged from the visitor’s center promised views of the ocean from our destination. Since the ocean still held some novelty for my landlocked heart, I set out on this hike with a forced positive attitude. Hurricane Hill was the polar opposite of Sol Duc: wide open spaces as opposed to claustrophobic foliage, high elevations com-

pared to gentle slopes. And marmots. Oh, the marmots. There were so many marmots on this trail I just about lost my mind. I made it my goal to photograph as many of them as possible. I worked out names and elaborate backstories for each of them. I determined who would win in fights between these fabricated marmots and my favorite superheroes (Wolverine would beat Murray the Marmot, but Mortimer would triumph over Captain America, due to his marmot powers). I was so engrossed with the Marmot Expanded Universe that I almost didn’t notice when we reached the top of the hill and saw the beautiful, endless expanse of … fog. No ocean, no vistas, just lots and lots of fog. We trudged back down the mountain, poor in eye candy but rich in marmot-related shenanigans.

On the way back home, as we considered the value of making reservations while waiting for hours to catch our ferry, Nicole asked if there would ever be a point that I would enjoy doing stuff like this. Like, really enjoy it, beyond my innate desire to turn everything I do into an opportunity for sarcasm. And I didn’t really know how to answer that question. I very much want to enjoy these activities, because my wife enjoys them and I enjoy my wife. I want to make her happy, but I have to wonder if going along on these trips and being super annoying is working towards that end. In answer to her question, I told her that I’m trying, and in the meantime, I’ll let my sarcasm guide me. Even when there are no marmots to fuel my imagination.

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Last

VIEW Hannah Carrigan jumps a creek on her way to October turns in Mount Rainier National Park. Photo by Jason Hummel.

FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

The Glacier Bowl

Just because you’re in the Wilderness, doesn't mean you have to rough it.

Thanks to an incredible community effort, Glacier, Washington is now home to a world-class skate park that is free and open to the public. Above: Some of the crew on opening day. Right: Mike Swearingen airs out of the Glacier Bowl. Photos by Ryan Davis.

Glacier www.stayatmtbaker.com

1-877-90-BAKER

Milano’s Restaurant Fresh Pasta h Local Seafood N E W Milano’s Nights NEXT DOOR...

open 7 days a week

9989 MT. BAKER HWY • GLACIER, WA 98244

360.599.2863

9990 Mt. Baker Hwy. Glacier, WA

Classic Italian Cocktails, Wine, Beer & Spirits, Tapas Menu

Resort Condominiums

Full and Fractional Condo Sales and Rentals Available

Come Experience Snowater Resort,

Gateway to the Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest and Ski Area

360-599-2724 46

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

Glacier, WA

www.snowater.org MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

CHAIR 9

WOODSTONE PIZZA & BAR

Full Menu & Family Dining

Happy Hour

Upstairs Game Room Free WiFi

Mon-Fri 11am-4pm

Watch all your sporting events here! 6 big screen TVs

LIVE MUSIC - Check

for schedule

PRIVATE ROOM available for parties and events.

CATERING for all your party needs.

10459 Mt. Baker Hwy Glacier, WA

360/599-2511 www.Chair9.com

Noww SSeeNrrvovin ing

Fresh Baked Goods BrB&earkfeasatkBufarritoss,t Strictly Organic Coffee & Espresso ASoupllL&uDQunaiccheyh

Glacier’s Only Hotel Located next to Chair 9 A great place to rest your head after your mountain adventure!

Behind Milano’s Restaurant • Open everyday at 7:30 am Behind Milano’s Restaurant • Open everyday at 7:30 am

HOT SHOTS

S BIG SCOOPS

Serving great food 7 days a week

9989 Mt Baker HWy

360-599-9883

Glacier, Wa s h i n G t o n

Espresso • Ice Cream • Groceries • Bagel Sandwiches • Videos • Local Crafts & More

at canyon creek

Glacier, WA • 599-2665

Walk-in reservations and 1 night stays available!

st au r a

TORE

ham’ ra

BakerAccommodations.com • 1.888.695.7533

h Great Food h Live Music h Happy Hour speciaLs h servinG sunday BreakFast

Office 7425 Mt. Baker Hwy. • Maple Falls

www.bluetlodge.com

Satisfy your vacation rental needs.

360/599-9944

Ask about pet-friendly rooms

Cozy Log Cabins

Mid Week Stay 2 nights, 3rd is FREE Special* the *excluding holidays

Fireplaces Kitchens

7577 Canyon View Dr. (Glacier Springs) Glacier, WA

360-599-2711

www.thelogs.com

Mt. Baker View Guesthouse View • 2 Bedrooms • Full Kitchen Hot Tub • Sleeps 6

Airstream Sally

Mention ad #1350 for a special check-in gift!

Sleeps 2 • Bathroom around the corner No Pets • Can be towed to your site.

OPEN DAILY • 9am - 5pm

Reservations 360-599-2155 www.mtbakerviewguesthouse.com FALL 2015 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2015

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