UNcommon scents
Lisboa to Milano The NEW
Couture
Need for tweed
Men’s Women’s Fall/Winter
2013 TRENDS 1 Display until March 2014 phabrikmagazine.com
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contributors
MARK ST. JAMES- (AKA Marquis of Fashion), is a freelance writer, fashion journalist, stylist, photographer and founder of Marquis of Fashion Inc. His latest projects include marquisoffashion.com (a personal blog reflecting the latest fashion, celebrity and style buzz) and fashioncollections.org a whirlwind of fashion collection reviews, designer and brand biographies and top fashion news stories.
JAMES KERSHAW- is a prolific makeup artist, stylist and educator with more than three decades of experience. His style and beauty aricles have been published Canada wide in newspapers and magazines across Canada including both The Vancouver Sun and Province, Montreal Gazette and Ottawa Citizen. James’ career was recently profiled in the online edition of Fashion Magazine
CORRIE SIDE- was born and raised in Edmonton, Alberta and discovered a love of art and aesthetics while completing a B.A. in philosophy and political science at the University of Alberta. After exploring the world of photography and image manipulation following an inspiring summer in California, she decided to make photography a full-time pursuit. Corrie is a fresh graduate from NAIT’s Photographic Technology program, and is currently interning with local fashion photographer Aaron Pederson. You can view her portfolio at www.csidephotographycom.
NAHLA WATFA- is a Graphic Designer, Artist, Writer - lets just say a modern day renaissance woman - a very eclectic individual overall. She currently obtains a Bachelor of Arts Degree: double major in Sociology and Psychology, and a Bachelor of Design: double major in Graphic Design and Advertising. Her rediscovery of fashion has recently occurred as she was always known for her style throughout the years as she constantly reinvents herself. Her attitude towards fashion: she doesn’t go with what’s trending but she sets her own trends.
COLLEEN NUC- Born and raised in St. Albert, Alberta but a true Edmontonian at heart, Colleen currently works as a Producer, Director and Editor for Lindisfarne Productions.In addition to her work in tv land, Colleen is a freelance writer for multiple local publications and a passionate makeup artist. You can find Colleen in the twitterverse @colleennuc
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ROBERTO MAGLIOZZI - began his work as a camera operator for RAI (Italian State Television). In 1992 he began to work more as a photography director and photographer specializing in editorial, fashion and advertising. Roberto has exhibited his artwork in galleries throughout Italy including Hype Gallery and Museo Fotographia Contemporanea, Milan.
DEREK JAGODZINSKY- Immersed in every facet of the fashion industry, this fierce fashionista knew what he wanted from a young age. From photography and art to marketing and design, Jagodzinsky, who holds a bachelors degree in design from the University of Alberta feels that “you have to know where fashion came from to know where it’s going”. He loves the history of fashion and all aspects of art & design.
JANIS GALLOWAY- Janis Galloway is the fashion personality behind famed Edmonton style blog, Dress Me Dearly. In between blog posts, Galloway works as an editorial wardrobe stylist, Alberta Researcher for FLARE Magazine, Resident Blogger at Edmonton City Centre and Fashion Correspondent for Shaw TV entertainment show, Press 2 Play.
GRANT OLSON-Earned a Bachelor of Applied Arts in Still Photography from Ryerson College in Toronto. A fashion/lifestyle photographer with numerous ad campaigns, newspaper fashion layouts and magazine editorials on his resume. His most recent work, which has had him shooting globally in the U.S.A., Europe and Central America can be seen at www.thestyliste.com
ERNEST DEJESUS- has photographed since the eighties which led to the transition to professional eight years ago. He has been a major supporter of WCFW for the last five years in various capacities including photographic contributions to many projects. As Studio E, he works on many local commercial projects with the focus on fashion and beauty.
JOAO PAULO NUNES- João Paulo Nunes is the founder and editor of the fashion and lifestyle website thestyleexaminer.com. He is also a style blogger for huffingtonpost.co.uk and London editor for fashiontrendsetter.com. He has published articles on fashion, art, design, and architecture in several magazines including Byron, Fashion London, Geil, Muse, Palladium, Out There, Viktor, Schön!, Tatler, and Varon. He has lectured on fashion and design, was a judge on several design and architecture awards and competitions, and has worked as a consultant on fashion, style and trends to several companies (including the BBC, Diesel and Matinique). His writing career has caught the attention of a number of editors and, as a consequence, he has been interviewed for several publications and featured in the Fashion supplement of the London Times. His professional life has taken him to the USA, Spain, and the UK. He has an MPhil in English from King’s College, University of London, and has received several awards including being made a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts in 2008. Born in Mozambique and growing up in Portugal, João Paulo makes his home in London.
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contributors
KRISTA HERMANSON - is an international interior designer currently based in Calgary, Canada. Krista’s boutique firm handles projects ranging from quick updates to luxurious custom new-builds and full-blown renovations. In her spare time, she educates budding designers at the University of Calgary, writes and speaks to groups on a range of topics. Krista is passionate about homes and the people who live in them. This is her inaugural contribution to PHABRIK.
AMANDA DIAZ - is a freelance Fashion and Advertising Photographer. Her work has been featured in multiple blogs, magazines and websites from around the world. She recently made the top ten fashion/ editorial photographers of 2012 with the Framed Network. Amanda has shot in different cities across Canada and plans to work in the United States as well as international soon! You can view more of he work here : www.amandadiaz.com
TRACY GRABOWSKI- Few subjects have escaped Tracy’s curious and creative eye. She has explored and photographed topics from fashion to heavy industry for over 20 years with awardwinning results.Tracy is devoted to expanding her technical prowess and sharing her passion with her peers. A graduate of the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology’s Photographic Technology program, she has also earned her Master of Photographic Arts through the Professional Photographers of Canada. “I see the world and people around me as one might view art in a gallery. The subjects of my work already exist. I study them and, when the moment feels right, put a frame around them and trigger the shutter.”
DRAKE GARNITZ -is a New York Times-published, Chicago-born poet/writer/shoefanista, who when looking for her heart’s desire, discovered that of course it wasn’t in her own backyard. Why would it be? Hearts have ideas of their own. And she found that hers has transatlantic strings that stretch from NYC where she lives, writes and works to Paris where she soon hopes to do the same. To read more of Drake’s work visit her blog at NYCPoet.wordpress.com
DANIELLE S. FUECHTMANN - is a digital marketer and a freelance fashion and lifestyle writer. Smitten with fashion from a very young age, Danielle split her time between copies of Vogue and literary classics. She is passionate about surrounding herself with beautiful design and is always on the hunt for new ideas. When Danielle isn’t buying bouquets of fresh flowers or reorganizing her closet, she can be found blogging at dsfuechtmann.com. 8
Available at
2414 Europa BLVD. West Edmonton Mall
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Letter from the Editor My mission at PHABRIK art + design has always been one of exploring local and global talent that includes emerging and established designers, artists, and photographers. The world is an amazing place, and PHABRIK aims to explore and share it through art and culture. We had a wonderful and educational journey this season, with an editorial shoot in Milan, two photo shoots in Paris, and the fantastic opportunity to attend the 2013 Davines world tour in Paris, all while meeting incredibly talented people along the way. Ending the season back in New York served to reinforce my personal philosophy – to support as much new creative talent as I can. It is a joy to be able to provide exposure to emerging talent, as so much of the world now seems to be homogenized. No matter where I travel, so many stores and media focus only on prominent, established designers, while small or novice designers are so often ignored. It is not that established designers do not merit attention – they certainly do – but we must be conscientious of the fact that we should support talent at all levels. It is important to try and see through the eyes of all artists and designers seeking to express their experiences and create something worthwhile. We need to think about where we spend our time and money, and support the young and the local designers as well to give us a more well-rounded and multifaceted perspective. This also reinforces my concept of a working community – in order for small designers to have an impact, they must work together to have their voices heard. I would like to close by extending a special thanks to James Kershaw for his intriguing beauty contribution and Ernest for his hard work on this issue’s cover. Finally, a big thanks to all of the artists and writers involved with us this season, who have shared their voices and helped us accomplish our goals.
Sandra Sing Fernandes Editor in Chief, Creative Director Phabrik Magazine
CREATIVE DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF SANDRA SING FERNANDES BEAUTY EDITOR JAMES KERSHAW COPY EDITOR JAMES KERSHAW GRAPHIC DESIGN DEREK JAGODZINSKY & NAHLA WATFA AMERICAN CORRESPONDENTS DIANE KOSUP & MICHAEL LISNETT FRANCE CORRESPONDENT TRACEY ELLIS UK CORRESPONDENT JOAO PAULO NUNES DIRECTOR OF SALES/ADVERTISING LUIS FONTES Contributors: Writers João Paulo Nunes, James Kershaw, Mark St James, Colleen Nuc, Janis Galloway, Danielle Fuechtmann Drake Garnitz, Chantel Girard, Krista Hermanson, Anita Foxx, Fransico Basconsela Photography Ernest at Studio-e.ca, Amanda Diaz, Corrie Side, Roberto Magliozzi, Tracy Grabowski, Fani Kanawati, Javier Ortega Makeup James Kershaw, Sylvie Desroches, Valentina Lordanova make up for Mud Studio Milano, Olga Bordoni, Olivia Brownwell, Calvin Arnold Hair Chantel Girard, Simon De Nault, Angelo Seminara, Sarah Careron, Olivia Brownwell, Pedro Inchenko, Nicole Fusco James Abu Ulba, Christina Dominielli Stylist Sandra Sing Fernandes, Katy Whitt, Jeffery Campbell, James Kershaw Contact Contact: info@phabrikmagazine.com Beauty: beauty@phabrikmagazine.com Advertising: advertising@phabrikmagazine.com 10
ON THE COVER PHILIP TREACY hat JEAN PAUL GAULTIER jacket DANIER gloves Photographer: Ernest DeJesus Hair: Nicole Fusco Makeup: James Kershaw Model: Steph D. at Modemodels
CONTENT fashion 34 pour femme 48 lisboa to milano 74 j’adore couture architecture 56 432 park avenue 59 zaha hadid nyc trends 14 new couture 40 shoe trends 60 mens trends beauty 20 kiss + tell 60 male room music 93 deolinda bernardo profile
Valentim Quaresma
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The New Couture
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Balmain
Have you ever inspected, fondled or wore a garment that was priced at over $25,000.00? If I narrow the parameters and eliminate fur pieces from your options, you may find it difficult to think of the last time (if ever) that you’ve come across something with such a considerable price tag. Recently, I had the privilege of getting a very close look at a Fall 2013 Balmain Ready-to-wear jacket that was by all accounts...divine. The craftsmanship that goes into a piece like this is overwhelming and all too obvious within the first glance. That every inch is encrusted in jewels and glass beads raises the jacket from common to Fabergé in about 5000 hours. And even though its mass resembles a bag of stones you’d never complain while wearing it? Not when you put it on and every eye is affixed to you like a blogger to a front row seat at fashion week. The thrill of wearing a piece like this is incomprehensible until you’ve worn something quite like it which... as I’ve mentioned above, is quite rare. Taking into account all the intricate handwork and dumbfounding exquisiteness that makes up a piece like this, is it worth it? When you consider a Kazimir Malevich painting such as the Suprematist Composition (blue rectangle over the red beam) which sold for just over 65 million or Mark Rothko’s No 1 (Royal Red and Blue) painting that recently sold for a staggering 75 million; dishing out $25,000 on a jacket seems like pocket change. Especially since the item you’re owning is a sanctioned piece of art and a piece of history created by Head Designer Olivier Rousteing of Balmain. You might even call it an investment seeing how resale on premium designer clothing is becoming more and more profitable. The mention of Malevich and Rothko is not to, in any way demean their works but rather draw a parallel between the art that these great artists produce and their relative prices. Haute Couture has always had its hands wrapped around the leash of the fashion world and dominating the runways, and rightfully so. With every centimeter designed by hand, each piece measured and cut precisely, each bead sewn on one-by-one not to mention the personalized fittings that go along with the sale of each look on the runway - shouldn’t the couturiers get to turn the head of the fashion industry in whichever direction they please? I used to think so. But since Haute Couture has decreased measurably as a subsidiary industry within fashion, Redy-to-wear brands have stepped up there game and are filling in the gap. So... who has the power now?
Balmain
Thankfully the “power” still resides with the buyer. They get to choose how fashion creates, what pieces are magnificent and if fashion truly is an art form. The Balmain piece I was lucky enough to try on is owned by a good friend of mine who, when asked whether they would rather spend the money on a similar piece from a Readyto-wear brand or start shopping Couture said “Isn’t this Couture?” And aside from countless fittings, isn’t it? Mark St. James Marquis of Fashion
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Balmain
Womens
Trends
Fall 2013 From ultra feminine pink, to the plaids of 90’s grunge, this season leaves plenty of options for wardrobe play.
Chanel
Versace
Saint Laurent
Moschino
Fausto Puglisi
Grunge Goddess Leather, plaid, studs and ripped jeans galore. This trend actually encourages you to return to your angsty teen wardrobe and rep rebellion. Saint Laurent demonstrated the grunge trend in its most ready-to-wear version with leather pants, schoolgirl plaid dresses, and multi-zipper embellished miniskirts. All styled with fishnet stockings and buckled, black biker boots. The key to executing this trend on the sidewalks? Leather, plaid and looking like you didn’t try at all.
MiuMiu
Carven
Moschino
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The It-Pant Comfort has been crowned queen of fall fashion, appearing in relaxed silhouettes from top to bottom. The loose-fitted trouser is an autumn must-have and looks absolutely chic paired with heels and a more tailored top. On our most wanted list are the perfect slouchy pants from sister superstars Mary Kate and Ashley’s, The Row. The fall collection showed the trend in its most wearable form – simple, black, classic.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Hermes
Proenza Schouler
Christopher Kane
Coat Room The world’s runways made it very clear - bigger is better when it comes to fall coats. Cocoon shapes and dropped-shoulders draped models in shows from Carven to Marc Jacobs, Chloe to Acne. Wool, mohair and leather were the star fabrics for this effortless, but exaggerated silhouette, but pattern and colour had no limits. Go for a sleek and traditional grey topcoat as seen by Emporio Armani, or flaunt the trend in all its glory with an elegant pattern such as Rochas floral silk opera coat.
Prada Rochas
Think Pink To the surprise of us all, this feminine hue might be the colour of fall/ winter 2013. Pink starred in many designer collections and is the focus of some of the season’s most illustrious fashion editorials, including the September issue of British Vogue starring it-model Cara Delevingne. The cotton candy shade stood out in a season of more androgynous trends imagined mostly in outerwear. Prada executed the colour on sophisticated plaid trenches, while Miu Miu paired it with playful polka dots in floor length jackets. Carven prescribed the trend in a double-dose: a show stopping, oversized, boiled wool coat in bubblegum pink. Let the lusting begin.
Janis Galloway
Michael Kors
Marni
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THE STORY OF EAUX
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Perfumers around the globe are constantly experimenting with combinations of essential fragrant oils and aromatic compounds to create new scents the rest of us cannot resist. Be they eaux de cologne, eaux de toilette, or eaux de parfum. Designers then place them in covetable flacons, veritable objet’art that demand to be displayed. Featured here are a few of the most recent introductions to the marketplace. Boucheron Place Vendome is named for the location of the first jeweler to locate there. Frederic Boucheron chose 26 Place Vendome because he believed it to be on the sunniest corner of the square. The shops diamonds would sparkle more brilliantly in the sun that shone through the windows. There are now more than thirty Boucheron boutiques located in the chicest shopping districts on the planet. Boucheron Place Vendome housed in an elegant “quilted” glass cylinder accented in gold. The Eau de Parfum’s top notes include orange blossom and pink pepper, warming to heart notes of jasmine and honey, finishing with notes cedarwood and benzoin. The fragrance will debut at Hudson’s Bay stores in Canada in October. Jimmy Choo, the name often associated with some of the most desired footwear made today, introduces Flash, the house’s second fragrance. Presented in a lilac tinted faceted glass bottle the scent contains notes of pink pepper, tangerine,and tuberose with base notes of powdery white woods. Prada, the Italian fashion house known for setting more than a few of the fashion world’s haughtiest trends debuts Prada Candy L’eau. A lighter version of their best selling original , the fragrance is modified with notes of Italian citrus, sweet pea with gourmand base notes of benzoin, white musk and caramel. The bottle is indentical in shape and form to the original, the bright fuschia faux accent ribbon is now a delicate blush pink. The Parisian fashion house of Carven was established in Paris on the Champs Elysees in 1945 by Carmen de Tommasso. The atelier focused on Haute Couture and accessories for the petite woman as well as various fragrances. The first scent, Ma Griffe launched in 1946, was a green chypre with floral notes, it is still sold to this day. The house flourished throughout the fifties and sixties, the designer retired in 1993. The house remained dormant until French designer Guillaume Henry came on board in 2010 revitalizing the house with a new fresh spirit.
Carven Le Parfum is presented in a simple chic frosted glass bottle topped with a clear glass stopper encircled with gold thread. the top notes include mandarin blossom, apricot and white hyacinth, the heart has sweet pea and ylang ylang the base has sandalwood, osmanthus and Indonesian Patchouli. Elizabeth Arden, born Florence Nightingale Graham in rural Canada opened her first Red Door Salon on 5th Avenue in New York City in 1910. By the 1930’s she had established Red Door Salons in most of the world’s fashion capitals. Her mantra (which you will find printed on the box lining of the firms newest scent) “to be beautiful is the birthright of every woman” launches Untold Eau de Parfum. A fruity floral scent with top notes of pink pepper and cassis, middle or heart notes of Egyptian jasmine and gardenia, warming to patchouli, amber and musk. Juicy Couture’s newest temptation is the limited edition Viva La Juicy Noir. A seductive version of the firms best selling Viva La juicy scent. The Noir version has top notes of berries and mandarin, middle notes of honeysuckle and gardenia and gourmand base notes of amber, caramel and vanilla. Canadian beauty icon Lise Watier launched her newest scent Something Sweet in April 2013 with a novel idea. Create a two month long web campaign contest to become the official spokesperson for the fragrance. More than 400 contestants submitted photos. Twenty one year old , Coquitlam B.C. resident Jessica Kruger won the honour. The 4th year Simon Fraser University student is the first quadriplegic to win a contest naming her “Beauty Ambassador”. (read more about the contest and winner at http://somethingsweet.lisewatier.com/en/ ) The scent, which is now available in a convenient purse size roll on version, launched in August has top notes of champagne bubbles and sorbet, notes of melon and red fruit dominate the heart ending with gourmand notes of raspberry and chocolate mousse in the base.
James Kershaw
clockwise from top left: BOUCHERON PARIS Place Vendome eau de parfum, ELIZABETH ARDEN Untold eau de parfum, LISE WATIER Something Sweet eau toilette spray/roll-on, JIMMY CHOO Flash eau de parfum, CARVEN Le Parfum eau de parfum, PRADA Candy 19 L`eau eau de toilette, JUICY COUTURE Viva La Juicy Noir eau de parfum
Beauty
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KISS + TELL What’s everybody talking about this autumn? The newest lip products launching from some of the most prolific cosmetic houses on the planet. You will see and hear about not only the haughtest shades of the season, like Clarins’ trio of Joli Rouge hues from their Graphic Expression colour story and Lise Watier’s Rouge Sublime in Tartan from her Tartantastique collection.The Canadian beauty maven has also added two new shades to her Haute Lumiere gloss collection in which the applicator lid lights up when opened. Elizabeth Arden New York launches a new range of Beautiful Colour Moisturizing Lipstick available in thirty six shades in a variety of finishes, housed in a newly designed silver trimmed gold case embossed with the Elizabeth Arden Red Door design. Jane Iredale reinvents her best selling line of lipsticks with a new formula housed in an elegant slim matte gold tube. The range of twenty four shades combines some of the best selling shades from her previous line with a variety of newly developed fashion aware hues. James Kershaw
clockwise from left ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Moisturizing Lipstick 20 Cocoa Bronze, 07 Rustic Red, 40 Ultra Violet, 01 Power Red, 37 Smoky Plum, LISE WATIER Rouge Sublime “Tartan”, Haute Lumiere Natural Shine, ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Precision Glide Lipliner 08 Framboise, 04 Bare, 12 Plum Wine, JANE IREDALE Pure Moist Lipstick Renee, Sarah, Lauren, Margi, CLARINS Joli Rouge lipstick 738 Royal Plum, 737 Spicy Cinnamon, 736 Pink Camellia
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Beauty
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FantasEYES This will be a very exciting season for eye makeup aficionados. Clinique’s new All About Shadow collection includes single, duo and quad eye shadow compacts in an array of classic and fashion forward shades. Clinique uses special fusion layering and variable milling technologies to provide an eyelid smoothing, creamy application all while delivering rich, true colour intensity. Their All About Shadow Primer for Eyes was created to improve colour retention, reduce creasing and extend wear of eye make up, and is available in four shades to reach a broad range of skin tones. Clarins Paris also debuts a few news worthy items this fall, the house’s new Be Long Mascara Length + Curve and their 3- Dot Liner ( which quickly attained cult status when first introduced as a limited edition item in 2012, now back permanently in the line) both contain Clarins’ growth stimulating Be Long Lash Complex which claims a 1mm addition in length after 4 weeks use. The house also debuts their new line of Crayon Khol pencils with brush (eight shades available) to be applied like a traditional khol inside the lash line or along the base of the lashes on the upper or lower lid. “Going green” takes on a whole new meaning this Autumn, as more than a few lines fall colour stories contain eyeshadows in various shades of the verdant hue such as Clarins new Forest Eye Quartet Mineral Palette, Lise Watier’s limited edition Tartantastique eye shadow Quartet an Elizabeth Arden’s Classic Khaki eye shadow duo. Truly an eye make up lovers fantasy come true! James Kershaw
top to bottom: LISE WATIER limited edition Tartantastique Eyeshadow Quartette, ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Eyeshadow Duo, 05 Black Tie, 01 Classic Khaki, CLARINS 11 Forest Eye Quartet Mineral Palette, CLARINS 3-Dot Liner, CLARINS Be Long Length + Curve Mascara, CLINIQUE All About Shadow Quad (left to right) 05 On Safari, 11 Galaxy, 02 Jenna’s Essentials, All About Shadow Primer For Eyes 02 Moderately Fair, All About Shadow single Purple Pumps, Pacific Coast, Blushed, Peach Pop, CLARINS Crayon Khol 08 Taupe, 05 Intense Violet, 03 Intense Bleu, 01 Intense Black
Kiss & Tell, Fantas eyes models: Kelsey A, Rachel A at phabrik model + artist management make up/concept/art direction: James Kershaw photography/digital art: C Side Photography
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Davines World Wide Hair Tour
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Italian owned Davines chose the Folies Bergere in Paris this year for the Davines World Wide Hair Tour. In its long history, the stage at the Folies Bergere has welcomed many of the world’s most illustrious entertainers and celebrities. This year, from May 26-29 more than 1,600 hairdressers from 45 nations gathered in the city of light to take in the sights and absorb the concepts and techniques presented by the best the world has to offer.
Also present at the tour were Phabrik Magazine’s Editor in Chief Sandra Sing Fernandes, and Davines distributor Glenn Stogryn of Stogryn Sales. Canada benefitted greatly with Glenn’s early vision and belief in Davines, as he was responsible for introducing the line into the Canadian market. To this day, Stogryn Sales is a key sponsor and force with Davines for providing amazing education, along with his support of Western Canada Fashion Week. Three of the twenty-nine North American Regional Davines Artistic team members, Chantal Girard (Edmonton) Vicki Frame (Calgary) and James Abu Ulba (Vancouver), are from the Western Canada Davines Session team.
Angelo Seminara creation
The more than 150 Canadian stylists attending the event made their presence known both on the main stage and behind the scenes. Evening celebrations consisted of various dinner and cocktail parties with the special theme “Midnight in Paris’’.
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Following the show, members of the Western Canada Davines Session Team got to use their expertise for three editorials, two shot in Paris and one in Milan. The results of this collaboration are featured in this issue.
The Western Canada Davines Session Team leader Chantal Girard and Sandra Sing Fernandes were also fortunate to be hosted by Davines at their headquarters in Parma Italy. There they spent a full day learning Davines techniques. An impressive factory and office tour showcased their high quality and eco standards, along with a hands on introduction of Davines’ new styling line “More Inside” which is being launched at Western Canada Fashion Week’s More Inside cocktail launch party.
James Abu Ulba Christina Domindelli
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James Abu Ulba
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1. The show itself consisted of: Samuel Rocher (French visionary that revives the tradition of excellence in simplicity) , 2. Davines’ World Style Contest (10 finalists 2 of them Canadian, one Canadian the winner of best cut Sandro Macri, best color Nguyen Truong Son from Vietnam and over all winner South African Christilena Erasmus) 3 . Allilon (Amazing Education Team from the UK creators of the collections Streb, Aces, Mane Childs Play etc), Aldo Signoretti (stylist behind such looks as Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge and Romeo + Juliet), Vincent Moutault (participated in styling over sixty films seen at Cannes one of his favourites being Berenice Bejo) 4.James Abu Ulba (Canadian winner of WSC 2012), Sustainable Beauty Day (presented by Davines CEO Paolo Braguzzi, NA Creative Director Jorge Blanco, RNA Artistic Team member and top SBD 2012 fundraiser Edmonton’s Chantal Girard) and Eco Salon Presentations (winning salons Vancouver’s Design House, and Italy’s Trecentosessantagradi) 5. Angelo Seminara (Davines’ Artistic Director responsible for the hair looks of a variety of houses such as Chloe, Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, YSL, Hermes, Alberta Ferretti, Kenzo and Alexander McQueen campaigns, and duo Brian Suhr (Davines International Education Coordinator responsible for implementing the Davines trainers programs and Kirsten Demant ( stylist with a no boundaries approach to hair styling). Chantal Girard
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The Streb Collectiionhair by Allilon Hair Academy
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Photography: Tracy Grabowski
Davines is a Parma, Italy-based high-end haircare brand distinguished by their innovative approach to beauty through pioneering products and projects. With its Italian heritage the company is now one of the most respected in the industry supplying salons and distributors in over 70 countries, while maintaining a boutique sensibility. Founded in 1983 by the Bollati family, the group has branches in Paris, London, New York, Mexico City, Deventer, Lummen and Dusseldorf, and an international team of more than 350 employees worldwide. Our style is a reflection of our curiosity and openness to the world – different cultures, customs, and people that truly inspire us – and our italian perspective of history and art, design and fashion, culture and lifestyle because it is our heritage and who we are. We love things that reflect simplicity and harmony because their beauty is always modern. And although we’re in tune with today’s mood, we set out to create concepts and products that are destined to become classics with their timeless appeal. Quality to us means having the freedom to create the best products with attention and respect for our environment, using high grade, natural ingredients, and applying scientific rigor to every product to guarantee our customers’ safety. Quality is also intended by all of us, by our partners and consumers as quality of life. At Davines, we dare to do what we believe in and, rather than conforming to the mainstream, allow intuition to pave our path. This gives us the freedom to develop concepts and products that are original, authentic, and emotionally connected with people. Our work is a thoughtful balance of substance and style, nature and science, people and spirit. It is what enables us to create what we call life-enhancing projects. More than two decades later, the davines community spans over 75 countries, thousands of salons and hundreds upon hundreds of passionate hairdressers. Although we continue to grow, with headquarters in Parma, New York City, Paris, London and Mexico city, our roots are firmly planted in our beginnings as a family-owned research laboratory guided by the same desire for quality products with an authentic approach and timeless appeal. Davines launches more inside The new styling range, the value of a craftsmanship approach, the quality of formulations conceived to shape the creative expression For Davines, styling is an art that allows stylists to give shape to their creative expression and make the most of their customers’ personality. Staying true to this philosophy, Iavines is pleased to present more inside. These products are honest tools that tell their own story through their characteristics and capabilities, whisper thoughts inspired by their function, elevated to humble and discreet advice, which can be applied to everyday life. Davines Italy
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Poetry
MAX AND ME that Sunday on a corner in la Bastille Max roller-skating leader of the pack leading us leading me across the bridge across the Seine but pas sufi for Max and me it is not enough so we continue to Sacre-Coeur and there is no film needed no flash required to capture our journey this camera is internal
every second a portrait imprinted as we move through light through dark sans wheels into the night the day the week our dance spilling onto the balcony spinning atop the roof twirling high above the boulevard together we dance nearly naked in body so naked in spirit we continue over then under le Pont-Neuf across
le Pont-des Arts up, up, up among the very lights of la Tour Eiffel we continue to continue the dance our dance the beat our beat and this picture of Max and me framed internally can be carried from here to there to any of my imprinted anywheres. Drake Garnitz
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Photography: Fani Kanawati
pour femme Photographer-Tracy Grabowski Creative Director- Sandra Sing Fernandes Natasha at Next Models Paris Hair – Sarah Cameron for Davines 34 MakeupSylvie Desroches for Jane Iredale
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FATIMA LOPES ; shaped shoulder deep v necked jumpsuit 36
FATIMA LOPES dress with geometric pattern sleeves and bodice 37 Tom Ford leather pump with metal tipped heel
AUGUSTIN TEBOUL triangle motif tulle trim top ECE SALICI panel skirt 38
FATIMA LOPES cropped leather jacket FATIMA LOPES dress with multi-tiered skirt
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Arts
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Valentim Quaresma “When I’m in the middle of a project I feel like I’m totally inside my dreams, but when a project ends I can never help but feel like I still have a long way to go.” How did you start? I started working when I was 16 years old in a store where I made fashion accessories. I worked there for two years and then took a contemporary jewelry course at an art school. Fashion designer Ana Salazar invited me to create fashion accessories while I was still studying. Because I began my career working with Ana, my creative process has always been very connected to the parameters of fashion. What was your original mission with your work? To be able to live of my creativity and to share my visions with others Do you ever create things that no one sees? Sometimes I develop work that does not get presented but it is part of my creative process. I call these works “ Work in Progress” because that’s literally what it is. They’re four very distinct elements inside a machine that continue to give me ideas for other projects and exploration.
How do you like to work? I have to admit that my creative universe works best in chaos; I don’t like to have every thing very organized because it affects the creative flow. I like to look around and see what’s available. I need to experiment with materials. Is experimentation crucial for you? Without a doubt. I’ve tried many different techniques and inspirations, from baroque to tribal, inserting them in different creative processes to see how it would work. I like to turn an ordinary material into something exquisite. At first glance a press-stud seems to only serve the function for which it was created, there’s nothing beautiful about it, but by applying them to a piece, I’m creating a beautiful and luxurious dimension, caused by the texture and achieved by the use of epetition of the same element. I now feel the need to get a little more experimental, even with materials. I don’t have as much time as I’d like to explore them. 45
Does the fact that every six months you have to present a new collection keep the creative juices flowing? Absolutely. And many ideas not fully explored in one collection can be put to use in another, it’s an ongoing process. There are techniques I discovered 2 years ago that are still to be applied, and I will return to them, the process is never just six months. Your 20 year career was celebrated with a retrospective exhibition in 2010 how did it feel looking back at your work?
How do you choose the materials you’re going to work? In the beginning I would have an idea and then look for the appropriate materials to execute it. There came a time when I realized I could do the reverse as there are materials that give me ideas and bring relevant concepts. Now, the creative process happens both ways. It’s an enormous challenge to pick up an object and try to imagine how else it could work. It brings me great joy, when the original object becomes unrecognizable. During the creative process, do you make the distinction between your fashion pieces and art pieces? I know that many people look at my work and wonder if it’s wearable as some pieces can go from a fashion collection and can then be displayed in a gallery. The work process is the same but it makes sense to separate these two aspects of creation. Do you always keep in mind the commercial and marketable aspect of a piece? I don’t allow myself to be dictated by that. When I create a piece that’s not as commercial, I try to refine it in order to make it more wearable, which doesn’t make it any easier or less creative. It doesn’t lose its worth, but I know my customer and know what works. In my case I can’t oversimplify, otherwise it doesn’t capture the attention of those who like my work. You’ve always collaborated with other artists from different fields. Do you enjoy the creative exchange? I really enjoy it. I’m always touched when I conceive a piece that is then transported to the universe of a photographer. Its exciting and working this way can learn a lot. All my life I’ve worked in open studios shared with other artists and I find it far more constructive than working in isolation. 46
It was complex when it came to collecting all the pieces. Much has happened in 20 years and it was good to look back. The pieces enabled me to visualize who I once was; it’s interesting to see the evolution of my work. At the end, the pieces had to interact with each other and I must admit it was an interesting dialogue. What are hardships you experienced being an artist? The biggest difficulty is to work without financial support. Particularly at the beginning of a career You really do have to learn from your mistakes. In school, you learn to draw, work with materials, and develop a project, but no one teaches you how to sustain a creativity-based business. It’s very hard to focus on your work when you have to do all the equally crucial things like contacting clients and collectors, promote your work, etc. All without which success is rather impossible. What is you ultimate mission? To show people my creative world within. Are you closer to realizing your dream? When I’m in the middle of a project I feel like I’m totally inside my dreams, but when a project ends I can never help but feel like I still have a long way to go. Fransico Basconsela
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Valentim From Lisboa to Milano Roberto Magliozzi Photographer Sandra Sing Fernandes Creative Director Chantal Girard Hair for Davines Valentina Lordanova makeup for MUD Studio Milano Olga Bordoni makeup Loredana Next Models Milan Valentim Quaresma wearable art
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Architecture
432 Park Avenue by Rafael Viñoly Uruguayan (and New York-based) architect Rafael Viñoly has designed what will become the tallest residential building in the western hemisphere when it is completed in 2015. Since it was launched in March 2013, the 96-storey 432 Park Avenue condominium has achieved over 1 billion USD in sales of apartments priced between 7 million USD and 95 million USD. The homes in the concrete and glass building will command views of Central Park, as well as of the Hudson and East rivers through 10 by 10 foot apertures that evoke Mies van der Rohe’s architectural compositions.
João Paulo Nunes
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Images Š Dbox for CIM Group and Macklowe Properties
Shoe Trends Architecture
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Images courtesy of Related Companies and Zaha Hadid Architects
Zaha Hadid unveiled plans for first building in New York City. London-based architect Zaha Hadid and property developer Related Companies have unveiled plans for an 11-storey building that will be built beside the High Line at 520 West 28th Street in New York City. The residential building, which will be Hadid’s first project in the city, will comprise approximately 37 luxury apartments and will include a double-height lobby, a large roof terrace, an indoor pool and a spa.
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Mens
SPRING 2013
Trends
Bid farewell to the quirky florals and pastels of summer. Fall 2013 menswear is masculine, sleek and refined.
Trussardi
Ralph Lauren
Kolor
Yohji Yamamoto
Kolor
The Statement Scarf
An easy accessory to update your fall wardrobe, the statement scarf started trending on city streets first. Earlier this year, street-style photographers snapped shot after shot of fashionable men wearing everything from printed bandanas tied neatly above collars to oversized, knit scarves wrapped in thick layers. The sidewalk-born trend found its way into designer collections by Kolor, Yohji Yamamato, Trussardi and Gucci. Solid colours are best for pairing with various topcoats, but if you’re looking for a more playful approach try it in a folk inspired print, or the season’s other hottest trend - plaid.
Philiip Lim
Kenzo
Camo-tion
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Philiip Lim
Valenti
Some of the season’s best menswear collections incorporated camouflage into their fall offerings. Some designers showed the print in its traditional tones, while others reinterpreted camo through deconstructed prints and surprising colour combinations. The season’s standout was surely the sleek, black on black camo executed by Valentino.
Need for Tweed
Tweed blazers, vests, topcoats and suits had menswear models looking absolutely academic this season. J. Crew and Ralph Lauren produced stunning tobacco brown suits in the scholastic fabric, while Paul Smith enveloped models in oversized, grey tweed topcoats over colourful fall layers.
Paul Smith Jcrew
Jcrew
Dsquared Jil Sander Valentino Valentino
Plaid Fad no
Fall and plaid have been in a long-term love affair for years, so it’s not surprise the pattern is back for another seasonal fling. DSquared2 breathed fresh life into the fall favourite, crossing vibrant blues and greens on sheen fabrics. The mad plaid suits presented by Valentino were absolutely exquisite in tailoring, while Saint Laurent took it grunge in collared zip-up jackets.
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Mens
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Grooming
MALE ROOM
SOLVE CLARINSMEN Anti-Fatigue Eye Serum, fatigue cooling eye gel, CLARINSMEN Fatigue Fighter Energizing Gel, CLINIQUE skin supplies for men antifatigue cooling eye gel, CLINIQUE skin supplies for men dark spot corrector
TREAT CLARINSMEN Line-Control Balm, COMFORT ZONE Manspace Age Recover Serum, COMFORT ZONE Manspace Extra Protection Cream Nourishing Face Shield
WASH
SHAVE
COMFORT ZONE Manspace Total Body Revitalizing Shower Gel, CLARINSMEN Shampoo + Shower, COMFORT ZONE Manspace Facial Cleansing Equalizer
CLINIQUE skin supplies for men face scrub, shave prep CLARINSMEN After Shave Energizer, CLINIQUE skin supplies for men post shave soother
The ensuite is becoming the new male room as more men discover the benefits of caring for their skin. Products that treat, protect and rejuvenate are available for all areas head to toe. They now demand products that go beyond the basics to enhance the effects of items they are already using for skin cleansing, hydration and comfortable shaving. Twenty first century males are seeking problem solvers for anti-aging, wrinkle reduction, and fatigue fighting. Specialty items for the vulnerable eye area that reduce under eye darkness and puffiness, formulas for dark spot correction (hyperpigmentation) caused by sun exposure and wrinkle reducing serums that supplement their daily regimen. product photography/digital art: C Side Photography model photo: Grant Olson Photography model: Andrew H at phabrik model + artist management art direction/text;: James Kershaw
James Kershaw
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UNCOMMON SCENTS The modern man wants something unusual or exotic. The scents in his fragrance wardrobe, need to reflect the many facets to his personality. A few fragrances featured here are classics, some are new versions of best sellers, and some are totally new creations. Paco Rabanne’s 1 Million Intense is a new version of the original scent launched in 2008. This new version has notes of Blood Mandarin, Rose Neroli, Cinnamon and Orris root. The ad campaigns for both the original and the new Intense version feature Alberta born model Mat Gordon. Mont Blanc Legend Intense is a spicier interpretation of the original launched earlier this year. New note additions include Pepperwood and Red Apple. Limited edition versions such as Thierry Mugler’s A*Men Pure Malt Creation 2013 was inspired by traditional techniques used to produce the finest whiskies (aged in oak casks), to produce woodier, smoky notes. A few famous European fashion houses are launching new scents to tempt the discerning consumer, Hermes Paris, the house founded in 1837 is now a global powerhouse known for luxury goods. Many of the world’s top designers have worked for Hermes, such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Martin Margiela. One of the houses newest scents is Eau De Mandarine Ambree, launched at Holt Renfrew in June, it’s already in their top ten sellers. Bottega Veneta, the artisanal leather goods company formed in 1966 introduces Pour Homme , the house’s first fragrance for men, following the successful launch of their debut women’s scent in 2011. Some of the scent’s exotic notes are Canadian Fir Resin, Jamaican Pepper, the key note is Andalusian Labdanum. Burberry, the house known for their iconic plaid accessories and the trench coat debuts another addition to their growing catalogue of men’s scents. Burberry Brit Rhythm’s top notes consist of basil, and cardamom, middle notes include leather and patchouli, the cedar and Tonka bean round out the base. Azzaro Chrome United, a celebration of friendship, is a new interpretation of the best selling original Azzaro Chrome. The scent’s many exotic notes include Sichuan pepper, Ceylon Black Tea, Violet leaf and White Musk. Prada’s most recent men’s offering is Luna Rossa, launched earlier this year, the scent is named for the “Red Moon” sailboat and team that competes in the America Cup. Some of the scents ingredients are Bitter Orange, Spearmint and Ambroxan molecule. Look for a new limited edition of the scent to debut later this fall. Iconic American Menswear designer John Varvatos’, (two time winner of the CFDA American Fashion Award for Menswear Designer of The Year) most recent scent is not brand new, Star U.S.A. launched in 2010 to rave reviews, the scents notes of Red Ginger Essence, Blue Spruce and Venezuelan Tonka Bean struck a cord with consumers, His first scent simply named John Varvatos launched in 2004 is still among the fragrance world’s top sellers. James Kershaw product photography/digital art: C Side Photography men’s headshots: Grant Olson Photography art direction/text: James Kershaw Hair: Nicole Fusco for Revive hair loft 64 models: , Andrew , Cody Elijah, Diljot at phabrik model + artist management
clockwise from top left: 65 BURBERRY Brit Rhythm Eau de Toilette, AZZARO Chrome United Eau de Toilette, (October) THIERRY MUGLER Limited Edition A*Men Pure Malt Creation 2013, HERMES PARIS Eau de Mandarine Ambree Eau de Cologne, PRADA Luna Rossa Eau de Toilette, JOHN VARVATOS U.S.A. Eau de Toilette, MONT BLANC Legend Intense Eau de Toilette, PACO RABANNE 1 Million Intense Eau de Toilette, BOTTEGA VENETA Pour Homme Eau de Toilette
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Designer
Jason Matlo Vancouver-based designer Jason Matlo is quickly becoming one of Canada’s hottest designers. With his ready to wear collection showing in multiple boutiques and stores across Canada, including Hudson’s Bay “The Room,” Matlo shows no signs of slowing down. “We are meeting with the buyers of the White Space within Hudson’s Bay, the area outside the Room that features [garments] at a more contemporary price point,” explains the designer. Matlo is talking about the newest addition under the Jason Matlo umbrella, Babe. “They’re taking a look at our Babe collection. It’s a big opportunity because there are so many more stores within Hudson’s Bay at that price point that can handle that brand. There are only two Rooms in the country but there are over 25 White Spaces, so this is a really exciting time for us.” But it hasn’t been easy for the designer. The designer spoke passionately about the struggles as a Canadian artist. “I have been very fortunate,” says Matlo. “We seem to have a hard time as Canadians supporting artistic talent within our country. It’s an ongoing problem; for years it was impossible to get Canadian stores to look at [my] line. It’s almost like they need validation from outside of Canada before stores even think of carrying your line.” With the brand celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Matlo has definitely becoming a force to reckon with. The designer is now starting to push the boundaries with his Babe collection, and the results are nothing short of fabulous. “Our ready to wear line tends to be a little more neutral, a little more of a sophisticated cut. Babe is an explosion of colour. I’ve been playing with a lot more colour and print that I’m not usually known for.” With 35 dresses in the Babe collection, Matlo says the line is meant to appeal to “the daughter of the woman who buys our Ready to Wear collection.” This upcoming Spring/Summer collection focuses on “Malibu Barbie” and features plenty of hot pinks, turquoise and oranges. “I was originally trying to create a marriage between Babe and ready to wear, but there’s definitely become a distinction,” described Matlo. “Babe is less expensive and will be a little more trendy, but will all the quality and finishings as you would see in Ready to Wear. The only difference is the complexity of the cut.” So what’s happening for the Fall/Winter 2013 ready to wear collection? Think ladylike pieces mixed with a little rock and roll. “I wanted to do something that was a little more 1930s lady like, but then I got into my head that I wanted it to be a little rock and roll as well,” explains the designer. “So I created these leather bondages pieces, that when layered over a ladylike dress, it takes the collection in a little harder, more editorial direction. I wanted it to be really strict and architectural looking, but still ladylike for our customer. It’s my favourite collection I’ve ever done.”
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Profile
Bano eeMee
Known for his vivacious personality and luxurious leathers, Calgary based designer Aleem Arif’s line Bano eeMee is quickly becoming internationally known as “la crème de la crème” in the fashion world. He was selected among international designers as the winner of the Crème de la Crème contest from the Emerging Designer Showcase at WWDMAGIC. The event, held in Las Vegas twice a year, is a hotspot for finding new trends, driving commerce and bringing together some of the world’s most influential fashion designers within the womenswear market. “I was very proud to represent Canada and people were very interested in the story. To get picked as #1 designer among designers from New York, LA and Chicago, all over the USA was pretty amazing,” states Arif. So what does this prestigious award entail? Arif will be taking a trip to Paris, France and presenting his line to the Galeries Lafayette women’s buying team for review, an opportunity reserved for only the most sought after brands in the world. “It’s been amazing but I can’t get complacent,” says Arif. “I need to continue working and reinventing self. It’s a fun business to be in but it’s very competitive. I need to continue putting things together that show my potential and show my drive. I always ensure that the quality is complete and that the design is functional” Its no surprise Bano eeMee is quickly becoming world-renowned. Using only the highest quality leathers, each piece exudes luxury at its finest. Expect to see this trend follow into Fall/Winter 2013 and Spring/Summer 2014. “I’m concentrating on leathers, that was a decision I made 3 collections ago. I want to focus on one product instead of trying to do everything,” explains the designer. “I just want to do leather, whether it’s leather blazers, leather tuxedos and I keep them very focus. I want [my pieces] to be high quality, trendy and marketable.”
Colleen Nuc
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Designer
Profile
Kaadiki
Never one to shy away from making a statement, Calgary designer Haithem Elkadiki of KaaDiki continues to challenge the fashion industry with his bold graphic prints and tailored silhouettes. “The fall winter collection is very futuristic, it’s very clean, very modern and very few colours,” explains Elkadiki. “[The collection] is really streamlined and graphic. That tends to be the direction I move towards, I’m always influenced by futuristic and sometimes preppy, military, so I blend all those things together.” The designer’s recent inspiration came from pictures of a friend’s trip to Mykonos, Greece. “I had a couple of friends that went to Mykonos and I saw their Facebook pictures and was immediately inspired. Beautiful blue and white buildings, the men are beautiful, it inspired me.” Focusing on custom made, special order garments, KaaDiki continues to grow in popularity, predominantly in Calgary, Alberta. “I feel like [Alberta] has a lot of potential and energy and possibility – it just drives me. It’s a lot of hard work, like it would be anywhere, if you’re in the fashion industry. You need to get people to think local. It’s been a slow process but Calgary has been great to me so far.” KaaDiki is also expecting to expand his womenswear collection. “For a long time my focus was only menswear but slowly I started doing a few pieces for women,” states the designer. “It got to the point where I had to do a whole collection.” When asked what to expect in the future, Elkadiki replies that he is only getting started. “Expect more exciting things and I’m hoping to never be predictable. I want to create something new and fresh every season and I want to keep all my customers happy.”
Colleen Nuc
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HIDE + SEEK
Prada
FUR: A vintage feel — but with a modern edge. Coats are a winter mainstay, this season many of them are oversized with full voluminous cuffs. It’s all part of a trend toward architectural cuts in clothing. Fur coats and jackets made the biggest comeback this year. Many of the silhouettes featured flared skirts and wide belts reminiscent of couture favorites from bygone eras. Paring down the silhouette using coarse furs for elegant wear was often associated with Fendi in the past. Fendi is to fur as Ferrari is to cars. Yet given current concerns about animal rights, the brand has moved from the lavish fur coats that were all the rage in the 1980s to a more discreet way of interpreting fur. Fur appeared as inserts in skirts or dresses, or sheared and fashioned into cozy, understated jackets. Long haired furs, such as goat, also appeared on other runways during Milan’s preview showings.
Dsuared2
Prada
DSQUARED2 Both the masculine and feminine sides of the DSquared2 label were shouting other for attention. Pencil skirts paired with belted jackets, one with layered, architectural lapels. But for evening, the mood was more speak-easy slinky with silky dresses with an asymmetrical, trailing feather boa hemline or a fur stole. Many designers featured fur at this season of preview shows, including Roberto Cavalli who used it mainly to trim the hoods of his winter parkas. That was enough to draw the wrath of a small group of animal rights activists who disrupted the show holding up signs in Italian saying, “Your fashion is our death,” until they were forcibly removed. PRADA Long luxurious mink coats had ample collars and cuffs like the ones Hollywood royalty wore during the 1950s. Coats have extra wide cuffs and are often belted at the waist and flared toward the bottom. 71
Anita Foxx Fendi
preview
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Autumn/Winter 2013 For his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection, French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier decided to reinterpret traditional menswear by deconstructing conventional sartorial tropes through an amalgamation process. The end result was an extremely accomplished collection of original designs that still allowed for very flattering masculine silhouettes. Using fabrics such as luxurious wools and leather in a palette of black, grey, white, camel, red and emerald, Gaultier created a range of successful garments that included oversized raincoats with dropped shoulders, suits that juxtaposed panelled fabrics, thick knitwear, long leather gloves and high-waisted pleated pants. However, it was the witty deconstruction of menswear that fused tradition with experimentation that caught our attention at Phabrik.This was particularly effective in suit blazers that came cropped or reinvented in shapes that conjured bomber jackets, pinstripe trousers with pleated skirt applications, jumpsuit suits, cropped shirts, and stunning belted overcoats with leather applications that blended traditional overcoat shapes with those of biker jackets.
Jo達o Paulo Nunes
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J’Adore Couture Photography-Tracy Grabowski Creative Director- Sandra Sing Fernandes Sofia / Wylie at Next Models Paris Hair 74 -Alexander Daniel / Chantal Girard /James Abu-Ulba for Davines Makeup- Sylvie Desroches for Jane Iredale
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EMOGENE COUTURE peplum dress/recycled fur and bead neckpiece
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AUGUSTIN TEBOUL dress/pompom hat, MINNA PARIKKA shoes77
CHARLOTTE MULLOR hand knit sweater/pants
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80 SALICI two toned zipper jacket ECE FATIMA LOPES sleeveless dress, lucite choker PRADA pumps
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92 EMOGENE COUTURE wool dress with chiffon insert 82
NINO BOLLAG strapless leather bodice print dress BEBE footwear
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DEFINED MOMENT couture plastic sheath dress
AUGUSTIN TEBOUL velvet waisted dress with full tulle crinoline skirt
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Decor
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Music
At the age of fourteen, Deolinda Bernardo decided she wanted to dedicate her career to keeping the Portuguese tradition of fado music alive. Deolinda began singing at a very early age, cultivating a love and passion for music. Although she spent the first years of her musical career singing contemporary styles such as pop and rock, her difficult childhood made the emotion and power of fado an appealing creative outlet. Fado’s origins trace back to before the nineteenth century, spreading out from Lisbon to other regions in Portugal, gradually developing distinct regional styles. A bit like North American blues music, fado requires precise and delicate technique to tell very passionate and emotional stories. The music requires active listening, leading it to be compared to opera; fado songs often require some knowledge of the tradition and subject matter carries emotional significance. In Lisbon, fado music has developed a modern flavour, with influences from Africa and Brazil, the style in this region has developed a unique urban feel. The northern areas of Portugal take on a Celtic sound, while the middle regions of Portugal absorb inspiration from their southern neighbor, Spain. In the southern-central countryside of Alentejo, the music has North African influences. These influences reflect Portugal’s interesting pattern
of trade and political relationships with the countries surrounding it. The most distinct of the regional styles comes from Coimbra, and is occasionally referred to as student fado. This style is recognizable for it’s exclusively male voices, and was made popular by the large student population in the city. Deolinda developed a love for music and singing at a very early in her life, and it was a constant in her difficult childhood. At 3 years old, separated from her mother, she began listening to the radio at her grandmother’s home where she was living. As she grew older she began singing, primarily in rock, jazz, and pop styles while working in a factory. Around this time she began to delve into the fado tradition, finding herself able to connect to the emotional stories the songs shared. When she was about fourteen, she recognized that her passion was something she truly wanted to share, and despite the difficult path pursing music would entail, she decided to follow it.
As a young single mother, the life of a musician was not easy. She spent much of her twenties singing in hotel piano bars.
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Arts
These nights were difficult and often thankless, but she learned many things about performing and developed as an artist. Fado is a very technical music form with significant regional variances, and Deolinda took care to learn about all of them, becoming proficient in many of the styles and learning an extensive repertoire of classic songs. She performs with great enthusiasm and joy, educating her listeners about the traditions and songs as she is singing. Luckily, youth are beginning to develop an interest in fado again, with artists like Mariza, who performs a pop-fado fusion, performing to large audiences and generating new interest into the traditional style. As a result this traditional music is experiencing a resurgence. Currently, she performs weekly in Obidos, a castle in central Portugal. The castle is unique, as it is one of few that people still live in. The perfect location for Deolinda to share her traditional music, Obidos has a vibrant culture, hosting markets and medieval fairs requiring period dress. She performs at Troca-Tontas each Monday night, a small intimate venue serving traditional food. Despite singing with no microphone, her voice fills the room with ease. Deolinda loves performing and watching the eyes of her audience and soaking in their energy, and this shows through her endearing nature and charisma. She will also be performing and leading a seminar on the first Monday of each month at PHABRIK in Serra del Rei, which will be open to all ages. For the last 15 years, Deolinda has travelled and performed with her partner and best friend, Jose Piras, a fellow musician. Sharing a core musical philosophy has made it natural for them to work together. An excellent musician in his own right, he frequently accompanies her singing, covers male parts, and writes his own music. Together, they share an intense performing schedule, frequently performing more than once a day, as well as travelling, within Portugal and internationally. Danielle S. Fuechtmann
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March 26-April 4 2014 Sept 18-25 2014
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westerncanadafashionweek.com
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Diversity and beauty is
LUXX
READY TO WEAR
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Photography: Amanda Diaz Makeup: Jenn Vautour Hair: Western Canada Davines Session Team
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preview
Blue Man Beachwear Spring/Summer 2014 Brazilian beachwear label Blue Man unveiled its Spring/Summer 2014 collection in the lush and luxurious surroundings of Palácio São Clemente in the Botafogo neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro during Fashion Rio on 16 April 2013. The venue for the runway show, a palace that was built in the eighteenth century as the residency of a Portuguese aristocratic family and now houses the Portuguese consulate, is a veritable majestic example of the Tropical Baroque aesthetic and a most adroit setting for Blue Man’s seductive collection. Under the creative direction of Thomaz and Sharon Azulay (whose father David Azulay founded the label in the early 1970s by selling the original – and now iconic – side-tied bikini), the collection explored the combination of typically Brazilian fauna and flora with Baroque ornaments found in Portuguese tiles and palace architecture as a reflection of the historical period when the Portuguese court settled in Brazil to escape the Napoleonic invasions and made Rio de Janeiro the capital of the empire. The result achieved by Blue Man was an exciting range of swimwear, beachwear, footwear and accessories in bright colours and detailed patterns that, while combining Rio urban beach culture and historical references, will undoubtedly prove to become popular when they hit the stores later in the year. For Spring/Summer 2014, Blue Man promises fluid pieces in transparent silk for lounging on the beach or by the pool that contrast with structured shoulder and waist lines in bathing suits, shirts and dresses. The influence of Hawaiian surf prints and the brand’s seminal relaxed approach to swimwear can be noticed in frayed denim bikinis and in bodysuits with vivid colours and patterns. And to anchor the lighter fabrics and cheerful designs, Lycra, denim and neoprene provide a successful balance to a collection that had the audience delirious and looking forward to another hot Rio Summer. João Paulo Nunes
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12 - 19, 2013 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York Spring New York City, NY 13 - 20, 2013 London Fashion Week Spring/Summer London, UK 18 - 24, 2013 Milano Women’s Wear (Moda Donna) Spring/Summer Milan, Italy 19 - 26, 2013 Western Canada Fashion Week Spring/Summer Edmonton, AB
Helmut Lang
September 2013
Dior
October 2013 04 - 11, 2013 Los Angeles Fashion Week Spring Los Angeles, CA 21 - 26, 2013 World Mastercard Fashion Week Toronto Spring Toronto, ON 26 - 30, 2013 Mercedes-Benz Russian Fashion Week Moscow, Russia
January 2014 11-14, 2014 Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fashion Milan, Italy 15-19, 2014 Paris Fashion Week (Mode à Paris) Men’s Fashion Paris, France 20-23, 2014 Paris Fashion Week (Mode à Paris) Haute Couture Paris, France 29-31, 2014 Copenhagen Fashion Week Copenhagen, Denmark
The Row
Febuary 2014 05 - 08, 2014 Charlotte North Carolina Fashion Week Charlotte, NC
Diane Von Furstenberg
Balmain
Vionnet
Fendi
Porenza Schouler
Haider Ackermann
Prada
March 2014 26-04, 2014 Western Canada Fashion Week Spring/Summer Edmonton, AB 30-08, 2014 iD Dunedin Fashion Week Dunedin, New Zealand
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SHOPPING GUIDE J’Adore Couture http://www.augustin-teboul.com Studio Augustin Teboul T. +49 30 56829315 studio@augustin-teboul.com http://minnaparikka.com Minna Parikka Universum/store Aleksanterinkatu 36 00100 Helsinki, Finland www.minnaparikkashop.com Emogene Couture-Canada www.Emogenecouture.com charlottemullor.com La Maison Simons Quebec, Canada Apartment Germany, Berlin- Memhardstrasse 8 Watch-That-Label.com London, England St.Tropez 39 rue Francois Sibilli Ece Salıcı ecesalici.com Beytepe Mahallesi Gönül Sokak No:24 Bilkent 3 Çankaya Ankara Tel: 0 (312) 227 02 25 Fatima Lopes Rua da Atalaia,36 1200-041 Lisbon info@fatima.com Nino bollag Studio Vogesenstrasse 23 4056 Basel Switzerland contact@ninobollag.com bebe.com West Edmonton 8882 170th St. #1305 Edmonton, Canada T5T4M2 Chinook Centre 6455 Macleod Trail SW #0125 Calgary, Canada T2H0K8 Robson Street 1000 Robson St. Vancouver, Canada V6E1A8 Defined Moment SARL 35 rue Lucien et Edouard Gerber 92240 Malakoff-France info@defined-moment.com
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pour femme Fatima Lopes Rua da Atalaia,36 1200-041 Lisbon info@fatima.com http://www.augustin-teboul.com STUDIO AUGUSTIN TEBOUL T. +49 30 56829315 Tomford.com Holt Renfrew Women’s 737-Dunsmur Street Vancouver Fashion Clinic Av.Da Liberdade,Trivoli Forum Loja 5 Lisboa studio@augustin-teboul.com Ece Salıcı ecesalici.com
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