Fashion Forecast A/W 2022
Report By : Amritanjali Ananya Aritrika Deepanshi Diya Hrutuja Phalgun Riya Thapa
Inquisitiveness
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uriosity is a motivational prerequisite for exploratory. We as a species are curious beings who have always taken upon ourselves to explore the unknown and delve into these spaces. It is not about finding the gold at the end of the rainbow, but the mere arousal one gets while chasing it. The current crisis chained us to our homes and added to increased levels of stress and anxiety. The innate need to explore and escape manifested as vivid dreams full of adventures where one could explore the unthinkablefrom deep seas to endless space. Mythologies, legends and folklores provided people with comfort and trickled their imagination.
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n these times fear has become the new norm, filled with violence, economic insecurity, geopolitical instability, viral outbreaks, and uncertainty. This has resulted in a shift to alternative realities for seeking solace. A prominent alternative reality is the horror genre ranging from movies, series, games and books.
Prevailing Darkness
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n extravagant rise in the spread of Asian pop culture is seen throughout the world. More fan engagement, deeper and variety of interpretations of song lyrics, and diverse genres are the reasons to add to the shift. The connection with dark themes in the east is seen increasingly.
The Oriental Influence
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uring the pandemic, a wave of isolation and boredom spread across as people were forced to stay inside their homes. To discard feelings of frustration and boredom people sought a distraction and maximalism delivered that to them. Online shopping and “cozying” need to cope with materialistic things interfaces like tik-tok and reels provided a chain of unending content furthering the maximalist tendency.
Maximalism
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wenties fashion is often remembered for its glitz and glam. At the dawn of the 1920s, the world was still reeling from the First World War. Recovering from the shock and adjusting to the new world post-war 20s saw a rise in people using fashion and socialization as an escape. There are more than one parallels that can be drawn between the worlds.
The Roaring 20’s
Dark Opulence
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midst the chaos and uncertainty, fear has become a part of the collective conscience. The anxiety driven society craves for an escape into an alternate reality filled with fantasy. Horror and fear stimulates an adrenaline rush, contrasting to the mundane monotonous lifestyle during the pandemic. The rise in the horror genre has impacted many spaces such as film, makeup and the gaming industry. This seems to be on a steady rise in the near future as they are blended with surreal elements as a form of escapism. During the pandemic there was also a prominent oriental wave where the Southeast Asian cultures influenced other parts of the world, industries, individuals and their culture. This oriental shift offers a fresh perspective and gives way for new ideas to make their way into the mainstream.
Dark Opulence represents a world of fantasy blended with elements of surrealism with dark undertones as a form of escapism. Delving into these dark fantasy worlds allow individuals to explore them while catering to the curious nature of today’s youth. Dark Opulence symbolizes this alternative reality through the context of Folklore, History, Surrealism, Illusions, Intimacy and Nature with a darker tone and maximalist aesthetic. The trend transcends from dark and surreal imagery with juxtaposition of elements playing a significant role. Maximalist sentiment will dictate details with opulence being the focal point. Influences from the orient will be prominent and give direction for prints, accessories and fabrics. New mythical stories and folklores from the orient will give rise to a new wave of imagination. Innovation will be at the forefront with a new approach to sustainability. References from the past like the twenties and hints of regency-core will come with a dark sentiment will give direction to the trend.
Oriental Witchescape A need for escape is all we need, Witches manifest their powers with greed. Often perceived as powerful beings, Natural elements help foreseeings. With the hopes to find comfort they plead, Souls in toxic reality are freed.
Oriental Witchescape talks about the dark connotations associated with the term ‘witches’ which blends the concept of dark opulence, fantasy, and elements of oriental folklore. The recent trend of Witchtok accentuates the topic of self-positivity through the concept of witchcraft. The oriental shift allows individuals to delve into the curious nature of folklore and mythology.
Oriental Witchescape contaminates the concept of witchcraft and oriental folklores, each sharing common grounds of elements from nature. Amalgamation of mystical opulence and dark nature from the oriental folklores incorporated with witchcraft can be foreseen in the future as a vast and unique trend direction in the form of escapism.
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Sorcerer The Sorcerer archetype belongs to the Gen Z and Millennial generation, living in Southeast Asian countries or are influenced by these cultures. Creative by nature, they indulge in various hobbies that include their fascination with dark fantasies and the magical world like that of witches. Their curious nature allows them to be nature oriented and explore the world inside their heads to escape the monotonous and chaotic lifestyle. They like to keep to themselves and believe in maintaining their close-knitted friends circle, however, when they escape to their magical world filled with dark fantasies, they feel empowered and delve into the sense of power and independence in these worlds. The career choices for this archetype include creative options like curator, poets, artists, small entrepreneurs catering to products like scented candles and unique stationaries, as well as cinematography, photography, alchemy, chef etc. They are interested in learning about other-worldly creations and in the idea of witchcraft and potion making. Rare collectible like that of herbs, stones, crystals and unique books pique their interest and encourage their love for exploration and escapism.
The coalescence of powerful warms and mystical cools bring us maximalism when viewed together, wherein each individual colour is a muted balance between the flashy and the sombre. The versatile nature of the colours come from a perfect amalgamation of the mystical world of witchcraft and the mythical world of oriental folklores. Inspired from the oriental finesse, the bold reds and purples leave us tempted and indulged into escaping from this uncertain world, to the world of grounding and warmth provided by the earthy browns, and the rich-yet-muted oranges and golds dwell into the desire for opulence in our monotonous lives. The captivating hues of greens stem from the trend of biophilia and pulls us into its mystical forests, and the calming blues give us a balance of the mind and opens our eyes to spirituality. The charming purple gives us a sense of empowerment and quenches our thirst for magic and sorcery.
Blood Potion 19-1554 TCX
Divine Spell 19-1724 TCX
Energy Orbs 16-1454 TCX
Goblin’s Fortune
Brewing Souls 19-1015 TCX
Somber Shadows 19-5350 TCX
Mystic Grove 19-5230 TCX
Fallen Dusk 18-4522 TCX
Necromancer Mist 14-4818 TCX
Bewitched Spirits 18-3615 TCX
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Fabrics
A rich array of fabrics give a sense of opulence and elegance through its sheen and intricacy. A creative balance of various densities and range of fabrics is ideal for the trend in the upcoming season. Sustainability takes the forefront in new and unique methods.
1.Velvet
2.Jacquard
3. Shot Organza
4.Rayon Jersey Knit
7.Broadcloth 8.Fine Lace
5.Protein Spider silk
9.Cactus Leather
6. Rinzu Fabric
Finishes
Extravagant finishes through sheen and texture are brought about through fabric treatment. Recent developments in fabric and dyes depict the elements of mystic and magic.
1. Imperfect Surfaces
2 Fur Scales
3. Thermochromic
4. Extracted Ore
Silhouettes Voluminous, free flowing, layered and oriental silhouettes express and blend elements of witchcraft and oriental folklore. The free flowing silhouettes depicts a feeling of mystic and enchantment.
Key Details Lace ups and ties are prominent key details symbolizing the combining of powers and elements in witchcraft. Dramatic ruffles and collars dominate the details of the garments. Harnesses, belts and corsets blend elements of witchcraft and represent control of the elements and oriental folklores.
1.Ruffles and Flares 2. Pin Tucks 3. Collars 4. Pockets/bags 5. Lace ups, ties and knots 6.Cut out 7.Gloves 8.Harnesses and Belts
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Prints
Nature inspired oriental prints are blended with elements from folklores with a rich oriental colour palette of reds, greens, blues and golds. The print direction represents mysticism and opulence from witchcraft, perfectly amalgamating elements for the micro trend.
Potion Garden
Bewitched Florals
Kitsune Knots
River Maho
Iris Shobu
Dragon’s Spell
Surface Ornamentations
Surface ornamentation consisting of sheen, sparkles and intricacy cater to the opulence of the trend through detailed sequined embroidery and glitter. Patchwork represents combining various elements of the micro trend.
1. Sequin
2. Satin Stich Embroidery
3. Patch-work
4.Glitter
Grotesque Intimacy I want to hold you close Skin pressed against me tight As I whisper in your ear I want to tear you apart
After being devoid of touch, the idea of intimacy will take a grotesque and dark form. The after effects of isolation will require an escapist lens to fathom the fear of being intimate with another person. This fear will manifest itself through gory and bolder ideas of human touch. The craving to be intimate will overtake all emotions and the constructs around intimacy will no longer exist.
A perverse and sadistic approach will give direction towards this path of finding pleasure alone or with another being. As this need to escape and be intimate will go on, an otherworldly figure will sooth the desires with fantasy and mystery. Grotesque intimacy will take on power play with bondage being a key element. There will be no conformity and imagination will seek different ways to quench the desire.
Viusal 2 GI
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Temptress New age youth who are not afraid to express their sexuality. They like to experiment with their life choices and break the barriers associated with the same. A non-conformist attitude prevails leading to rebellion, questioning societal ideals, and paving their own path. They create an identity for themselves without adhering to these societal norms. To what the world views as painful, they find pleasure. Their perception of pain differs from the collective conscience. They find intimacy in the smallest of pain. Interconnecting pain and pleasure, they do not shy away from accepting the realities of sex and are not afraid to add fantasy to the mix . They are unapologetic about showing off their sexuality to the world.
A bold and tempting play of colours that oozes passion and lust. The shades of deep red symbolises the blind hunger that needs to be quenched. It is about demanding pleasure without any boundaries. The raunchy, vulgar and lewd tones showcase passion with a dark desire. The red spell plays out with bright and refreshing hues that stimulate and bring in the element of fantasy. The palette showcases sin, lust and heat that require immediate extinguishing.
Lewd Love 19-1410 TSX
Bloody Passion 18-1935 TSX
Vulgar Touch 19-1554 TCX
Raunchy Betty 19-2045 TCX
Sinful Romance 15-1863 TCX
Nude Charm 16-1626 TCX
Pixie Blood 17-1462 TCX
Hot Flash 17-1563 TCX
Divine Itch 15-5425 TCX
Devil’s Chain
Fabrics
The fabrics bring in a balance of tactile and sensory elements combined with bondage and bdsm inspired fabrics like latex. A subtle ode to sustainability is seen with the addition of materials like mushroom mycelium and faux fur. Metallic and holographic yarns and sheer fabrics like chiffon, bring about the ethereal and other-wordlyness. Fabrics like the knits and mesh are focusedon the grotesque and sensual sensibilities of the concept.
1. Latex
2 .Lycra mesh
3. Microfibre silk
4. Loosely knit woolen mesh
6. Metallic Weft W 7. Laser holographic fabric
8. Faux fur
5.Silk chiffon
9.Mycotex
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Fabric Finishes
The fabric treatments aim to reference grotesque goriness with the help of tangible textures which are brought in with finishes like burnout and plisse, the latex lace finish brings in bondage inspired sensuality and the thermochromic finish adds to the intimacy aspect of the concept.
1. Burn-out
2. Plisse
3. Thermochromic
4. Latex lace
Silhouettes Bold and exaggerated silhouettes inspired by the BDSM subculture with an erotic undertone. The silhouettes feature the use of design details to showcase the beauty of the human anatomy and accentuate the body further.
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Key Details
The trend looks brings in exagggerated and detailed elements. The Key details feature modular knitswear along with exposing tie-ups and meshes and metal finishes inspired by Domcore and powerplay. There will be a rise in details inspired by the human anatomy.
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1. Modular Knits
2. Exaggerated Sleeves
7.Croth Cut-outs 8. Irregular Cut-out Mesh
3. Lace-ups
4. Constructed Details
9. Emphasized Bodily Details
5.Anatomy Inspired
10.Miss-matched patches
6. Bondage Hood
11. Metal Straps
12. Unixes Corsets
Prints
The rawness and the intenseness of the wild acts of the impulse. Tying it with the fun and intensely playful colour palette of reds and pops of pink, teal and oranges. The prints depict versatility and have stereotype-breaking visuals.
Raw Lust
Carnal Rush
Covert Touch
Lewd Handles
Orb-session
Look Liscious
Surface Ornamentations
Surface ornamentation consisting of sheen, sparkles and intricacy cater to the opulence of the trend through detailed sequined embroidery and glitter. Patchwork represents combining various elements of the micro trend.
Bodiece. Collection for Kallol Datta
Kallol Datta Kallol Datta 1955 was created by its namesake designer Kallol Datta, a magpie when it comes to dressing, the garments made under the label reflects these tendencies and incorporate elements from a vast cultural reference. The Kolkata-based designer graduated in womenswear from Central St. Martins in 2006, preceded by a Fashion Design degree from NIFT. Kallol Datta 1955 was launched in October 2007 and since then an extreme enthusiasm and provocation is visible in clothes married to exceptional technique.Kallol has been labelled as ‘the face of new Indian fashion’. His clothes have ushered in a new wave of ethno-grunge dressing. His collection is a continuation of a dialogue between the garment and the viewer. The long cotton drapes shrouding the cylindrical human form, anti-fit silhouettes, and predominantly monochrome hues is Kallol Datta’s aesthetic. He makes bold and provocative statements by employing symbolism that is both local and universal in its approach—something we most definitely need considering the kind of politically-volatile times we live in.