The Foundation of Unfathomable Depth

The year 1953 is one that commands great respect and commemoration amongst watch enthusiasts and professional divers, as Rolex introduced the earliest of its most notable professional watches – the Oyster Perpetual Submariner. An instant success upon its launch, the Submariner gained a solid reputation as a reference among divers’ watches, setting the benchmark for the industry. It was the first divers’ wristwatch with a waterproofness to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet) – continuing the legacy of the Oyster – the world’s first waterproof wristwatch invented by Rolex in 1926. The Submariner also laid the foundation for the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea divers’ watches.

Aside from the timepiece’s remarkable functions and iconic look, it is the legends that have worn the Submariner which makes it a truly timeless classic. Let us travel back in time for a moment and revisit the 1960s, an era where the Space Race was in full throttle between the U.S. and the Soviet Union. Equally exciting is the debut of the very first movie of perhaps the most iconic characters in film – James Bond. Portrayed by Sean Connery, Dr. No was released in 1962 and Connery chose to wear a Rolex Submariner Reference 6358 ‘Big Crown’, now known as the “Bond Submariner”. The whereabouts of the original 6358 worn by Connery has remained one of the biggest mysteries in the watch community, and perhaps a fitting one for being a James Bond watch.

“A gentleman's choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Saville Row suit,” remarks the creator of James Bond, Mr. Ian Fleming.

Over half a century has passed since its creation in 1953, the Submariner has to this day maintained its reputation as the most iconic of divers’ watches and earned its status as the emblematic all-around watch, as seen on the wrists of explorers, athletes, filmmakers, artists, world leaders and people from all walks of life. Overtime, Rolex has made gradual improvements to the design and offered the model in various sizes and precious metals. The Submariner is unquestionably a watch that combines all the reliability, robustness and functionality that one can ask for in a watch, while maintaining an aesthetic sensibility that can be worn in depths of 1,000 feet as much as it can accompany one to a black-tie event.

The Submariner is never out of place, nor has it become obsolete in today’s world of endless technological advancements. Though it has evolved both technically and aesthetically over the years, its subsequent versions stay true to the spirit of the original model – a pioneer unwavering in its quest for challenge and adventure. Which is why PHILLIPS in Association with Bacs & Russo would like to take this opportunity to present a curated selection of the Submariner at the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the legendary divers’ watch.

勞力士，「Submariner」型號6536/1，精細罕有，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備中心秒針、 黑色亮漆面錶盤，約1956年製

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1956

Reference No. 6536/1

Movement No. N’693’389

Case No. 155’514, inside caseback stamped “II.56”

Model Name Submariner

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “7206”, endlinkes stamped “80”, max length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “3-68”

Dimensions 37mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 240,000-480,000

USD 30,800-61,500

Introduced in 1955, the Rolex Submariner ref. 6536/1 usurped the preceeding ref. 6536 and remained in production until 1959.

Framed in a robust stainless steel 37mm diameter Oyster case, the ref. 6536/1 features a small Brevet crown measuring at 6mm only and much smaller in comparison to the ref. 6538 “Big Crown” with an 8mm Brevet crown.

Bearing a 155 thousand serial, the present example is from circa 1956 and is offered in excellent overall condition boasting an attractive case with crisp and desirable bevels, not to mention thick and prominent lugs. Furthermore, the dial is nice and original with strong radium readings under a Geiger counter. The luminous material on the dial has aged beautifully and further heightens the vintage appeal of this present example.

The dial is preserved in equally impressive condition with its strong gilt print. The luminous marker at 6 o’clock is most notably much brighter than the other luminous plots, as to be expected from Submariner dials from this period.

勞力士，「Submariner」型號5508，精細罕有，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備中心秒針、

黑色亮漆面錶盤，約1961年製

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1961

Reference No. 5508

Movement No. 88’020

Case No. 763’858

Model Name Submariner

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped “80”, max. length 175mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “4.63”

Dimensions 37mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 160,000-240,000

USD 20,500-30,800

The ‘Small Crown' Submariner ref. 5508 was in production from 1958 to 1962 (replaced by ref. 5513) and was one of the last models to carry the "100m=330ft" depth rating with no crown guard configuration. The present example is exceptionally well-preserved with its beautifully aged dial, contrasting polished and brushed finishes, and strong case proportions. The glossy black lacquered dial with gilt chapter ring and Mercedes hands are period correct for a watch dating to 1961, as well as the calibrated bezel to 15 minutes. The Submariner diver’s watch is an icon in the world of horology and this example is a wonderful addition to any collection.

A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK I dial and bracelet

勞力士，「Submariner, Red Sub」型號1680，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備「MK I」錶盤、 中心秒針、日期顯示，約1969年製。

Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1969

Reference No. 1680

Movement No. D’368’226

Case No. 2’129’772, inside caseback stamped “II.69”

Model Name Submariner, “Red Sub”, MK I

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “280”, max length 180mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “4-69”

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 150,000-250,000

USD 19,200-32,100

Not just a blueprint for modern dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is an icon that has cultivated a large following dedicated to every variant and slight modification from its first iteration, which appeared in the Rolex catalogue in 1953, to the present day. The Submariner ref. 1680 was launched in 1967. Being the first of its kind to be fitted with a date function, the not-soinconspicuous date window sparked a heated controversy among watch aficionados that is still aglow today.

As seen on the present timepiece, early dial variations of the reference display a ‘meters first’ depth rating and a single line of red ‘Submariner’ script, resulting in its nickname, the “Red Sub”. Deemed a cult favourite among collectors, these rare Submariners with a pop of rouge mark an important milestone for this sports model.

Of the seven different iterations of “Red Submariner” dials, established by the scholars of the community, the present example is fitted with a rare and exceptional Mark I “meters first” dial that was produced between the 2.07 million to approximately 2.20 million serials. This is distinguished by its elongated closed 6’s, distinctive overhanging “f” in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner printed over white. Both the luminous material and the dial itself have aged beautifully. Extenuating its vintage appeal, the lume plots and hands have developed a lovely light creamy hue, and the dial remaining untouched and uniform.

Moving onto the bracelet, the present set is stamped “9315” and “280” on endlinks, rendering it the highly sought-after “Patent Pending” variant. In correspondence to the present example, the clasps on this type of earlier bracelets are further engraved with an inscription ranging from “67” to “70”, and are more desirable for their rarity amongst vintage Rolex collectors.

The ref. 1680 is a landmark wristwatch for the Rolex brand and bearing a 2.12 million serial, this beautifully preserved Submariner from circa 1969 is fine example.

A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, bracelet and presentation box

勞力士，「Submariner」型號5512，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備「4-liner」錶盤， 約1977年製。附錶盒

Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa 1977

Reference No. 5512

Movement No. 173’036

Case No. 5’367’310, inside caseback stamped “5513”

Model Name Submariner

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “380” max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “3-72”

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 63,000-94,000

USD 8,100-12,100

Accessories

Accompanied by Rolex international service guarantee, instruction manual, product literature, green plastic card holder, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

The matte dialled Rolex Submariners ref. 5512 are extremely popular in the world of vintage watch collecting. Introduced in 1967, the matte dials were made to replace of the preceding glossy gilt dials. While early examples of matte dials featured “meters first” with a softer black finish and printed white text, the final generations of the ref. 5512 were signed with the “feet first” depth rating on the dial.

Bearing a 5’367 million serial, the present example is dated from circa 1977. A quintessential “Maxi 4-Liner” dial, this ref. 5512 is marked with “660ft-200m”, “SUBMARINER” “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER” and

“OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” in an orderly 4-lined formation, with distinctively enlarged luminous plots. This dial configuration was produced for only a year between 1977 and 1978. Having aged beautifully through the ravages of time, the luminous plots have developed a desirable ivory-cream hue that enhances its vintage appeal. Rare to come by, this no-date Submariner is the perfect no-frills vintage tool watch for daily wear.

A fine and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet

勞力士，「Submariner, Maxi II」型號5513，精細罕有，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶， 備中心秒針，約1979年製

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1979

Reference No. 5513

Case No. 6’191’695; repeated inside caseback 5513

Model Name Submariner, Maxi II

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “580”, max length 185mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “CP7”

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 80,000-160,000

USD 10,300-20,500

Iconic and timeless with an attractive presence, the present Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 with a 6.1 million serial from circa 1979 features a desirable Maxi II dial with large tritium hour markers. Introduced in 1978, “Maxi II” dials are usually found in the 5 million to early 6 million serial cases, distinguished for the “SUBMARINER” line being printed above the depth rating on a matte dial. Other defining features of this dial variant include: the depth rating being longer than the line above topped with a lack of serif on the “f”, and that the “=” sign is directly aligned with the centre of the “A” in “SUBMARINER”. The present example belongs to one of the last examples that has left the Rolex manufacture with a Maxi II dial. Offered in attractive overall condition with an attractive dial that has aged in uniform fashion, the present timepiece is a nice option for vintage collectors to sport on a daily.

勞力士，「Submariner」型號16800，罕有，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備中心秒針、

日期顯示，由蒂芙尼銷售，約1981年製。

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1981

Reference No. 16800

Movement No. 0’600’664

Case No. 6’663’364

Model Name Submariner

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “501 B”, max length 180mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “AB9”

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 120,000-200,000

USD 15,400-25,600

Accessories

Accompanied by Rolex travel case. Further delivered with three individual Tiffany & Co. Service invoices dated 6th October 2000, 15th March 2002 and 14th November 2012.

Rolex has always been a champion of perfecting the smaller and more intricate details of a watch to enhance the performance of their creations. Following the success of the ref. 1680, launched in 1967, the ref. 16800 enjoyed instant recognition when it was unveiled in 1979 for being the first Submariner to be fitted with a sapphire crystal. Framed with a redesigned bezel, the update significantly elevated the model’s resistance to water, rising from a depth rating of 200 meters to 300. Integrating a matte dial into a modern case, this “Transitional Submariner” was the last of its kind to flaunt the nowcoveted vintage appeal. While earlier iterations of the ref. 16800 are graced with matte dials and luminous markers, such as the present lot, later variations are fitted with glossy dials with luminous, white gold markers.

Over the decades, the Swiss manufacturer has shared a long history with Tiffany & Co., and the double-signed dial on the present ref. 16800 is a testament to this fruitful partnership. As Tiffany & Co signed watches can only be purchased at their New York flagships, these exclusive pieces have become some of the most highly sought-after sports watches that command a steep premium. The present example is a beautiful stainless steel Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 retailed by Tiffany & Co and is further presented in excellent overall condition.

勞力士，「Submariner」型號16808，極度罕有，黃金自動鏈帶腕錶， 備藍色啞面錶盤、中心秒針、日期顯示，約1983年製。附原裝證書

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 1983

Reference No. 16808

Movement No. 1’280’028

Case No. 8’083’971, inside caseback stamped “16800”

Model Name Submariner

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 195mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 200,000-400,000

USD 25,600-51,300

Accessories

Accompanied by unstamped Rolex guarantee dated 30th July 1988, green card holder, product literature and 1984 calendar.

Early Gold Submariners are in a league of their own. Introduced in 1979, the Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 series usurped the iconic ref. 1680 series, which was the first of its kind to ever feature a date function. While its aesthetics remain largely untouched, a few upgraded features distinguish the new from its predecessor. For starters, the former Plexiglas was replaced by a sapphire crystal, forever changing the watchmaking industry. Likewise, the ref. 16800 series was fitted with the then-new cal. 3035, equipped with a practical quick-set date function adjustable via the crown at 3 o’clock. Another significant update was the incorporation of a unidirectional rotating bezel, which only rotates counterclockwise, providing extra security while in use.

The ref. 16808 was launched in two different variants with the first being a blue dial with a blue bezel insert, and the second being a black dial with a black bezel insert. In 1987, the reference ceased production, along with its stainless steel counterpart the following year.

Beautifully preserved, the present blue-dial Submariner ref. 16808 bears an 8.08 million serial and is an example from circa 1983. The most striking feature of this timepiece is undoubtedly its special matte blue dial. To our knowledge, it appears to be the second known yellow-gold Submariner to have left the factory with such an exotic dial. The first known example was a preceding ref. 1680, auctioned in 2020 at PHILLIPS Geneva for a whopping CHF88,200 following a competitive bidding war. Sitting between the standard black matte dial and blue radial dial, one can only deduce that this highly desirable nipple dial is one of a handful of test dials Rolex used to experiment with their catalogue. Stunningly aged through the ravage of time, the luminous material on the hands and dial have even developed an attractive uniform patina that enhances the watch’s vintage appeal.

The present timepiece is accompanied by its original guarantee and will most certainly tickle the hearts of discerning collectors of rare vintage Rolexes.

A fine and “new-old-stock” stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

勞力士，「Submariner」型號16610，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶，備中心秒針、日期顯示， 約2011年製。附原裝證書、錶盒、配件

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 2011

Reference No. 16610

Case No. 4’1KA2’985

Model Name Submariner

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9135”, endlinks stamped “280”, max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “RS4”

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 47,000-78,000

USD 6,000-10,000

Accessories

Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped The Watch Boutique USA and dated 21st April 2011, instruction manual, product literature, leather card holder, hang tags, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

Unveiled in 1989, the Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 succeeded the short-lived transitional ref. 16800 and is dubbed by collectors as the first true “modern” Submariner featuring the new cal. 3135. Compared to the latest Submariner ref. 126610, launched in 2020, the ref. 16610 is slightly smaller and measures 40mm in diameter rather than the most updated 41mm. The present reference is a fantastic model for keen collectors seeking their first timepieces to add to their collection.

Offered in “new-old-stock” condition, this is a desirable specimen retaining all its factory stickers and is further accompanied by its full set of accessories. The present Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 is a spectacular opportunity to acquire a pristine example of the much-coveted reference marked from circa 2011.

A

勞力士，「Submariner“Kermit”」型號16610LV，精細，精鋼自動鏈帶腕錶， 備中心秒針、日期顯示，約2010年製。附原裝證書、錶盒、配件

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 2010

Reference No. 16610LV

Case No. 6F’2K1’415

Model Name Submariner “Kermit”

Material Stainless steel

Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max. length 190mm Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 120,000-200,000

USD 15,400-25,600

Accessories

Accompanied by Rolex guarantee stamped Dickson Watch & Jewellery Co., Hong Kong dated 23 July 2010, hang tag, card holder, instruction manual, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

In production from 2003 – 2010, the ref. 16610LV was developed to celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary. Nicknamed the “Kermit”, the reference is revered for its semblance to the Muppet Frog. In addition to its special green bezel insert it is also the first instance of a Submariner with a glossy maxi dial featuring enlarged hour indices and slightly wider hands than the standard black dial ref. 16610. Replaced by the ref. 116610LV known as the “Hulk” in 2010, the “Kermit” remains ones of the most sought-after Submariner models on the market.

The present example from circa 2010 is a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire the iconic “Kermit” in “new-old-stock” condition with all of its factory protective stickers intact, and further accompanied by its full set of accessories.

勞力士，「Submariner,

Smurf」型號116619LB，罕有，白金自動鏈帶腕錶， 備鑽石時標，中心秒針、日期顯示，約2009年製。附錶盒、原裝證書、配件

Manufacturer Rolex

Year Circa 2009

Reference No. 116619LB

Movement No. 2’506’642

Case No. V157’439

Model Name Submariner “Smurf”

Material 18K white gold

Calibre Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle 18K white gold Rolex Oyster deployant clasp

Dimensions 40mm diameter

Signed Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate

HKD 200,000-350,000

USD 25,600-44,900

Accessories

Accompanied by Rolex guarantee card stamped Rüschenbeck Dortmund dated 29th June 2009, product literature, green card holder, outer packaging and fitted presentation box.

Released in 2008, Rolex shocked the community with the release of the Submariner ref. 116619LB, as it was their first ever serially produced Submariner model in 18K white gold. While the Submariner has traditionally been produced in stainless steel due to its heritage of being the “go-to” professional diver’s wristwatch, yellow gold versions has been available for a few decades with the introduction of the ref. 1680/8 in the late 1960s.

Nicknamed the “Smurf” by collectors universally, the ref. 116619LB brings a refreshing appeal to the white gold case as it features a vibrant blue dial with a matching blue Cerachrom bezel insert. Immediately sought-after by collectors since its initial release, the reference was discontinued in 2018. In 2020, Rolex released the ref. 126619 with a newly incorporated 41mm diameter case and a black dial instead of the previous blue.

The present example Rolex Submariner ref. 116619LB from circa 2009 features a rarer dial with diamond-set indexes and a white gold frame for its date window as compared to its regular counterpart. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the present lot is complete with its original guarantee and presentation box.

ROLEX The Iced Blue Smurf

Patek Philippe

A well-preserved and elegant hunting cased pocket watch with cathedral hands, Certificate of Origin and presentation box

百達翡麗，型號865，黃金獵殼懷錶，備日內瓦印記機芯，1980年製。附原裝證書、 錶盒、後補證書

Manufacturer Patek Philippe

Year 1980

Reference No. 865

Movement No. 933’052

Case No. 558’844

Material 18K yellow gold

Calibre Manual, cal. 17-170, 18 jewels

Dimensions 47.5mm diameter

Signed Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate

HKD 60,000-100,000

USD 7,700-12,800

Accessories

Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin dated August 1984 and fitted presentation box. Further delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the date of manufacture of the present timepiece in 1980 and its subsequent date of sale on 4th June 1984.

A gentlemen’s timepiece that fits right in your palm, the Patek Philippe reference 865 began production in 1969 until the 1990s. A homage to the tradition of hunting case pocket watches, the ref. 865 is a four-piece case sized at 47.5mm in diameter with yellow and white gold. During its two decades of production, approximately 220 cases have been created by Master casemaker Favre-Perret denoted by the 115 hammer mark stamped on the inner caseback. The collection spanned across a vastly decorated range of beautiful miniature scenes, medallions, champlevé patterns and engravings.

With a gentle push of the pusher encapsulated by the oval bow reveals a clean white lacquered dial decorated with refined elongated roman numerals. The highlight falls directly to the cathedral hands that sophisticatedly defines the time of this Patek Philippe creation. Powered by the manual wound caliber 17-170 stamped with the Geneva seals, the present well-preserved example of the ref. 865 is rather discreet with both faces remaining blank canvases. Perhaps a perfect timepiece with plenty of room for its new owner to decorate, or to be kept as minimal and classy as it is, this hunting case pocket watch also come with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box dating this back to 1984. The present Patek Philippe ref. 865 in yellow gold is the 26th example publicly known in the market.