Philly Beer Scene February/March 2011 by Philly Beer Scene

Issue 11 | february/march 2011 | www.phillybeerscene.com

™

Ménage à trois Beer, Cheese and Chocolate Pairings

Bruce Nichols A tribute to a beer scene legend

12 % Imports Brian Ewing and foreign beers

Intercourse to Climax | Nebraska Beer | Boozy Popcorn

february/march 2011

Free! Take One 1

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Contents February/March 2011

specials

12 Percent imports Brian Ewing shares his foreign beers. By Kyle Park

Bruce nichols: Remembering a beer scene pioneer. Intro By Mat Falco

cheese & chocolate The new way to celebrate Valentine’s Day. Intro By Mat Falco Pairings By Elizabeth Begosh & Paul Lawler

sections 8 on the scene

22 Tapping into technology PhillyTapFinder.com By Zeke Diaz

Beer events in Philly’s beer scene.

10 the variety pack By Alicia Eichelman, Neil Harner, Andrew Loder, Two Guys On Beer & Scott Willey

16 Woman On The Scene From Intercourse to Climax By Carolyn Smagalski

18 Fun With Beer

24 Discovering Craft Beer First Craft Beer Memories By Scott Sherwood

25 Beer Travel Nebraska By Paul Kavulak

27 Not beer

The Beer Bottle Lamp By Terry Brophy

Boozy Popcorn By Alicia Eichelman

19 Homebrewer’s Corner The American Revolutionary War

28 you’ve been served

20 Cooking With Beer Spaghetti ale-la Carbonara

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The Champagne Flute By Scott Willey

29 from the cellar 2002 vs 2010 St. Bernardus Abt 12 By Phillip L. Pittore III

44 bar & restaurant reviews Unique beer destinations for a pint and a meal in and out of the city. By Neil Harner & Mat Falco

48 the tasting room 12 Beers reviewed by our panel with special guest: Chef Terence Feury

52 directory Local listings of places to drink a great beer, take home a great beer, or make your own (great) beer.

58 beer events Local happenings in the Philly beer scene.

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meet the founders Mat >> mat@beerscenemag.com Currently Drinking: Short’s Uber Goober Oatmeal Stout my friend just brought from Michigan. Style of the Moment: Porters Best Beer Moment: Seeing pictures of our “Best of Philly Beer Scene” award in the Founders’ Tap Room. Now if I could only go in person... First Craft Beer: Magic Hat #9 Other Vices: Burritos, I eat them way too often. Random Likes: The holiday craziness finally being over so we can get back to normal life. Random Dislikes: Snow. Getting to know me better: My life pretty much revolves around good beer. Between running the magazine and bartending part-time, there is beer around me entirely too much. Aside from beer though, I’m in love with good food and cooking.

founders

Mat Falco & Neil Harner Art Director

Melissa Levenduski Executive Editor

Alicia Eichelman Director of photography

Pete Schuster

Neil >> neil@beerscenemag.com Currently Drinking: Southern Tier Choklat Style of the Moment: Really funky sours. Best Beer Moment: Sharing Scaldis Prestige de Nuit with family for Christmas. First Craft Beer: Weyerbacher’s Blithering Idiot Other Vices: I’m drinking a lot of coffee lately. Random Likes: Pancake Krimpets from Tastykake. Random Dislikes: Shoveling snow. Getting to know me better: I’m a little too much business. I’m the owner of a web and graphic design studio called Inverse Paradox which is the company that produces this magazine. Aside from working 60 hours a week at this normal gig, I work on this magazine (which I could hardly call work since I always have a beer in hand), and I spend time with my son, Cael, and fiancée, Lindsay.

Contributing Editors

Johnny Bilotta, Elizabeth Begosh, Terry Brophy, Zeke Diaz, Butch Feeser, Paul Kavulak, Paul Lawler, Dave Martorana, Brett Mullin, Kyle Park, Phillip Pittore III, Scott Sherwood, Carolyn Smagalski & Scott Willey Contributing Artist

Andrew Loder Contributing photographers

Jon Clark, Alison Dunlap, Bryan Kolesar, Jolene Lupo, Stephen Lyford & Brittany Ostrov Web Designer

Amanda Mitchell

Philly Beer Scene is an eco-friendly publication which is printed with soy based inks.

Philly Beer Scene is Designed & Printed in the USA. Philly Beer Scene is an Inverse Paradox Publication. Copyright © 2011 Inverse Paradox, LLC. Philly Beer Scene is published bi-monthly by Inverse Paradox, LLC. 4432 Bristol Road, Suite 1B, Oakford, PA 19053 | 215-478-6586

For subscription inquiries please visit us on the web at www.phillybeerscene.com

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Letter from the Founder What a long couple of months for Philadelphia beer lovers. There have been some great happenings, like news of a new bar opening from the owners of Fork & Barrel and the arrival of renown Firestone Walker Brewery to the area (currently available in New Jersey and soon, Pennsylvania). Even a couple of new breweries have starting getting things going, like Local Nano, located at the Hulmeville Inn and Revolutionary Ciders out of Northeast Philadelphia. Sadly though, the months have also been dampened with losses. First off, local favorite Swift Half Pub, shut their doors for good at the Piazza in Northern Liberties. And, in even sadder news, Philadelphia lost one of its key members in the beer community. Bruce Nichols, who was one of three founders of Philly Beer Week, passed away, leaving a huge void in the lives of many local beer lovers. Bruce was an amazing man who was loved and respected by everyone and he will truly be missed. This issue, we brought you a few memories from some of his closest friends in the community as a tribute to all he has done for the Philly beer scene. On a happier note (at least for most of the female beer lovers), Valentine’s Day is upon us and we are bringing you a great way to celebrate and skip the fancy restaurant. With eight local beers, each paired with a local cheese from the Fair Food Farmstand and a local chocolate from Betty’s Speakeasy, Valentine’s Day can’t get much better. Also, this issue, we have part one of a multi-part series we are dedicating to getting to know the importers who bring you incredible foreign beers. Brian Ewing of 12 Percent Imports is up first, as he shares his stories of how he brought fine European beer to this country to cut down on his costly beer runs. Though these last few months may have been a mix of highs and lows, we look forward to great events in 2011, including numerous craft beer festivals and of course, Philly Beer Week. To find out more about happenings this year, check out page 11 where we are bringing you 11 Things for 2011. As you read this issue, keep Bruce in mind and remember that chances are, this beer community really wouldn’t be where it is today without him. I know we’ll be raising a glass in his honor many a time.

Cheers, Mat Founder, Philly Beer Scene Magazine

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february/march 2011

On the Scene

Philly Beer Scene’s Candid Photos from the Fun and Exciting World of Craft Beer 1. Tom Peters pours from an ‘07 Duvel to toast Bruce Nichols at Monk’s Cafe.

2. Weyerbacher rep Natalie DeChico, showing off her Yards t-shirt at the most recent Yards challenge against the Hulmeville Inn. 3 & 6. Curt Decker and others showing their support for Bruce Nichols at Monk’s Cafe. 4. Pub & Kitchen chef Johnny Mac, cleaning out the mash tun while helping brew their custom Six Point English Mild. 5. The Sly Fox logo chiseled out of ice outside Franco’s Trattoria during the weekend long outdoor ice bar event. 7. A group of friends enjoying themselves at the Iron Abbey during an amazing Founders’ beer dinner.

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The Variety Pack

An Oldie but a Goodie Michael Jackson’s Great Beer Guide still serves up solid beer reviews. By Neil Harner

Although Michael Jackson passed away several years ago, he left a legacy in Philadelphia that helped to define our city as one of the greatest beer cities in the country. With that, he also left us tomes of vast beer knowledge, that although dated and missing some of the world’s newest beer offerings, still holds up as incredible references for any beer lover. The Great Beer Guide is nearly 11 years old, but it still serves its purpose of being a fantastic introductory guide to some of the best beers offered throughout the world. Ranging from European brews including Germany, Belgium, and Czech to some of the early U.S. craft brewers. And, even though label art has changed and a few of the beers are no longer available, the book’s

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notes still hold true, especially to the novice. What makes this book special is that it is so fundamentally basic in the approach that Jackson writes for the new beer lover to help develop them into a beer connoisseur. There is no pretentiousness or over the top explanations. Each beer is examined for its simplest and most dominant characteristics along with a bit of history behind the beer or brewery. Finally, the back of the book contains great information from how to properly pour beers to simple instructions to make suitable pairings with food. The Great Beer Guide is perfect for the novice but an experienced beer lover should have this book on their shelf as well since it is now considered among many to be a “classic.”

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rare find:

Allagash Tenth Anniversary Ale Brewed back in 2005 in honor of their 10th anniversary, only 800 cases were ever bottled. It’s a unique blend of two different batches of Allagash White (one sweeter, one dryer) and partially aged in fresh oak barrels. Coming in at 10% ABV, this bottle conditioned ale is far from your typical batch of Allagash White.

The Variety Pack

11 Things For 2011 A new year brings new beer adventures for our beer scene. By Neil Harner

2011 is going to be an exciting year for the beer scene. Already, I am hearing rumors and confirmations of great things to come. So, I thought I’d tease you with a few of the things we’ve gotten wind of. 1

An epic homebrew and winemaking store like none other in the region. With 24,000 square feet, it’ll be more like a mall. 2 A local concept restaurant for downtown Philly is on the way from the creators of Fork & Barrel. 3 There are rumblings that the Philadelphia suburbs will be home to not one, but two new brewing companies, starting with Neshaminy Creek Brewing Company in Churchville.

Then, later this year, you may find yourself enjoying fine ales and lagers from the Newtown Brewing Company. 4

The opening of the Forrest & Main Brewery and Pub located in Ambler. 5

Troegs Brewing Company is increasing

their production with a brand new brewery located in Hershey, PA. In fact, if you dig, you can find photos and plans on their website.

D-LITE

7 The last beer festivals at the Navy Yard will be taking place this year. 8 Revolutionary Cider will be up and running in Northeast Philadelphia, offering traditional colonial style ciders. 9

Renowned Brooklyn bar, Barcade,

will be bringing craft beer and old school arcade games to Fishtown.

10 Jose Garces’ German beer venture, Frohmans Wursthaus is set to open in the near future on 13th and Chancellor in Center City. 11

Fishtown has a lot in development with

Restaurateur Stephen Starr rumored to be opening a biergarten later in the year.

By Andrew Loder

you know, I can’t stand the weather in Winter, but I love winter beer.

And While I love the warmth of summer, I can’t stand summer ales.

But winter beer is best during cold weather. And there’s nothing like a cold one on a hot day.

Here’s a tip: Get Fat. Winter’s a win-win.

february/march 2011

The Variety Pack

Fire-Brewed Mbege This gluten-free brew is sure to please any banana and beer lover. By Alicia Eichelman Gluten-free beers are continuing to solidify their presence in the marketplace. At the 2010 Great American Beer Fest, the glutenfree beers had a total of 13 entries, up from 10 in 2009. Delicious, refreshing, and skillfully crafted, these “alternabeers” are increasing in distribution as well as available options. Based out of Glendale, Wisconsin, Sprecher Brewing’s concept for their fire-brewed Mbege was initially conceived for Milwaukee’s African World Festival. However, it quickly won over the taste buds of brewers and audiences alike, and was soon available year-round for everyone’s drinking pleasure. Sprecher’s Mbege is brewed in the traditional Eastern African style, and since barley and wheat are not grown in large quantities there, it becomes gluten-free almost by default. The barley and wheat is replaced by sorghum and millet, with the main ingredient, real banana juice, present throughout this unique, unfiltered offering. Sprecher is careful to point out that their African styled brews, Mbege and Shakparo Ale, are meticulously crafted with celiacs in mind, to provide a solid alternative to those seeking wheat and barley free options.

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The Variety Pack

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Fine Beer From Large and Small Brewers Worldwide Corporate Gift Baskets • Glassware Beer & Liquor Collectibles ID Verification Equipment (trade only)

What is an “ice” beer? - Sam J., Bucks County, PA Interestingly enough, the name is almost backwards. There isn’t anything additional in an ice beer. Instead, ice is actually removed. After finishing the beer itself, it’s brought down to temperatures below freezing and “fractional freezing” occurs. Fractional freezing is the process of separating two liquids with different melting (or freezing) points. In this case, water freezes long before alcohol, and the beer begins to form ice crystals. The ice crystals are then filtered out of the beer, leaving a stronger, higher ABV beer. It is, in fact, a type of distillation known as “freeze distillation.” Ice beers are actually partially distilled and find their pedigree in German Eisbock beer. These beers, made by fractional freezing of doppelbocks, create beers that range from 9% to 43% ABV.

Named “Best Place to Buy Beer” (Philadelphia Magazine)

Named One of 79 “Remarkable Retailers” Joe Sixpacks (in the world) “Best Places for Six Packs”

How do you feel about mixed drinks made with beer? - Sean L., South Jersey We feel fine about it! We certainly believe that craft beers deserve a chance to stand on their own, and we encourage growing your palate by trying as many different beers as you can get your hands on. That said, we’re hardly purists. Beer is meant to be enjoyed, and that’s the bottom line for us. We don’t subscribe to the belief that mixing beer with other ingredients is somehow blasphemy. There are a few websites out there dedicated to drinks made with beer. Beer mixed drinks range from the simplest Black and Tan, to obvious party drinks meant to get you hammered faster, to pure culinary genius. Be sure to check out one of our favorites the “Colonel Saito” at Chifa restaurant in Philly. What are some stupid laws associated with beer? - Christian F., Philadelphia, PA This one is a fun one. Instead of harping on things like Pennsylvania’s moronic beer laws limiting you to only two six-packs at a time, unless you buy from a distributor, which allows you to buy as many cases as you want (minimum of 1 case, no less), we’re going to outline some of the more bizarre laws out there. In Indiana, it’s illegal for a liquor store to sell cold soda - warm soda is OK. It’s also illegal to carry your beer from the bar to a table - you have to have the wait staff do this for you. In Ames, Iowa, it’s illegal for men to have 3 sips of beer while in bed with their wives. In Woburn, MA, you had better be sitting - it’s illegal to walk with a beer in your hand. It’s almost the same in New Hampshire - you have to be seated while being served, but once you have the beer in-hand, you can get up. In St. Louis, MO, it’s illegal to drink beer while sitting on the curb - only, that is, if it’s from a bucket. Restaurants and bars in Nebraska cannot sell beer unless simultaneously brewing a kettle of soup on the premises. But, North Dakota may be the most cruel - it’s illegal to serve pretzels and beer at the same time!

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The Variety Pack

Meet The Scene: Mario Civera Mario Civera, owner of Civera’s Deli & Back Alley Beverage, didn’t let a fire stop him for offering his customers the best of both worlds. By Scott Willey Philly Beer Scene: How long have you been in the craft beer industry and what influenced you into this line of work? Mario Civera: I’ve been in the craft beer industry off and on for

seventeen years. My exposure and eventual love of the beer industry started from working in the family business, Civera’s Deli, when I was a teenager. Initially, our store had seven refrigerated doors of beer and when we saw the craft beer movement taking shape, we re-designed the store and offered seventeen refrigerated doors of beer. Seven alone were dedicated to craft and imported beer. PBS: Back Alley Beverage and Civera’s is a one-stop shop for single bottles and cases. Has your selection influenced your customers to be more adventurous in their purchases? Are you converting people from macro to micro? Mario: After we got over the initial shock of a devastating fire on

Labor Day weekend in 2008 that destroyed the “old” Civera’s, my father and I quickly realized that we had an opportunity to turn lemons into lemonade and thought that opening 2 separate stores, Civera’s (take out beer) and Back Alley Beverage (beer distributor), gave us an opportunity to further cater to our beer clients. With this opportunity, we have been able to expand our product offerings tremendously to give our customers the best of both worlds. They have the opportunity to try products that may be new, or expensive from Civera’s and if they like them enough they know they can make a more economical purchase at Back Alley Beverage, buying a case. As far as the transition from macro to micro, we see it almost every day and actually have a line-up of beers to recommend based upon our client’s taste that we would consider entry level craft and imported beers.

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PBS: How long did the fire set you back, and where was the original location? Mario: The fire set us back approximately 9 months. It occurred

Labor Day weekend in 2008 and we re-opened May 2009. We re-designed the layout, and built on the same land as our current location to facilitate both the distributor side, and the bottle shop and deli. PBS: What craft breweries have you had the most success with and are there any breweries that you would like to offer that aren’t currently available in PA? Mario: The craft breweries that we have had the most success with

are the local products such as: Dogfish, Victory, Weyerbacher, Sly Fox, & Yards. There are always a few products that we get requests for that have never been offered or aren’t offered anymore in PA. The last time I checked, I think Pennsylvania had approximately 3,000 different products approved, and when some of those products are from breweries like North Coast, Brew Works, The Bruery, Ballast Point, Founders & Bell’s, we have plenty of good beers to satisfy the most discerning beer drinker. PBS: What are your plans as far as involvement in Philly Beer Week? If it’s too early to tell, what would you like to be involved in? Mario: In the past, Back Alley Beverage participated in the Craft

Beer Festival at the Naval Yard and ran numerous in-store specials on craft and imported beers. This year, we haven’t ironed out all the details of how we will celebrate Philly Beer Week, but it’s our goal to do a little bit more each year.

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february/march 2011

Woman on the Scene

From Intercourse to Climax Take a titillating journey of climactic proportions and arrive at beer euphoria. By Carolyn Smagalski

phillybeerscene.com

PhotosbyDebK.com

In 2008, Nicole Courides had just graduated from Rider University in central New Jersey and thought Intercourse was something she wanted to share with more than a handful of colleagues. Public Relations were her forte. “I took a trip to Dutch Wonderland in Lancaster County,” said Courides, “and fell in love with Intercourse.” Peppered with her journalistic creativity, an entrepreneurial spirit, and a love of beer, she founded Intercourse Brewing Company. As she stroked her plans, they firmed up; but she soon realized that “Intercourse was a dry town,” and she would need to move to the decadence of the cities to create her first foursome of beer – one with all the pleasures from Mount Joy Light to Bareville Pils, and onward to Paradise Pale and Blue Ball Porter. Her beer mats set the mood with such phrases as “Right now, I’m having Intercourse,” and “I’m ready for more Intercourse.” A journey from Intercourse to Climax is an adventurous proposition - the embodiment of exotic pleasures, dishonorable pitfalls and unexpected euphoria, like spontaneous sex with a new partner. You might revel in the visual stimulation of a coppery body in the moonlight, complete with glistening head; a supple tingle on the tongue; the senses piqued by aromas too delicious to resist; the merging of a specialty brew of sinful indulgence. With Valentine’s Day looming close on the horizon, Intercourse gives you the perfect opportunity to take your sweetheart on a wanton tryst, leaving macro-lagers behind and rollicking in the luxury of craft beer. Mount Joy seems the perfect aperitif to lure her into easy submission. A lean white head lies like French lace across its pale golden body. With a bit more exploration, you will want to feel the excitation of Blue Ball Porter on your tongue, touched with espresso and the subtle fruitiness of blueberry. But don’t stop there. Your foreplay has just begun. If you travel eastward, six of

the seven Iron Hill Brewery locations are within easy access. You may find Big Red Wibby, gleaming with brilliance like an oiled copper body in the sunlight, drenched in malty sweetness, and packed with enough citrus character to demand a proper pairing with fried Calamari or pan-seared Filet Mignon. As if that were not enough, The Cannibal will lure you even farther down the path toward titillation. Originally brewed in honor of the Tour de France and the inimitable Eddy Merckx, this Belgian Strong Pale Ale displays an exotic edge with aromas of Eastern spices and tropical fruit, a product of Duvel yeast, select malts, and the proprietary secrets of Chris LaPierre. Served in a 750 ml bottle with

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cork and cage, the 7.7% alcohol seems to vanish like dry ice as your inhibitions dissolve into thin air. Top it off with a Belgian Cherry Cordial. At 8% ABV, Iron Hill’s American Stout invites you in with aromas of roasted nut cake, pierced with cherries. You may want to reach Climax quickly, but excitement lies in sustaining pleasure as long as possible. It may be time for an intermezzo. Wild Devil from Victory Brewing cleanses the palate with dry tannic notes and candy sweetness, tempered by Cascade hops. This vermillion beauty starts out as Hop Devil’s identical twin until Brett jumps in. I am referring to Brettanomyces, a wild microflora that naturally lingers in the air of the Zenne

Valley in Belgium. Victory has delicately harvested this wild yeast that imparts the characteristics of horse-blanket and leather earthiness, flavors coveted by connoisseurs of Belgian style beer. These yeasts work slowly, but ferment more thoroughly than the more common yeasts used for lagers and ales.

The BUFF Zone At this point, you are ready for the buff zone. Buff, as in naked … or polished … or showing off toned muscle, perhaps? In midyear 2010, Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, Greg Koch of Stone Brewing, and Bill Covaleski of Victory Brewing formed “Brewers United for the Freedom of Flavor (BUFF)” in a collaborative effort to carry out their Buff Manifesto, designed to highlight the freedom of flavor. As a brewers’ seal of their commitment, they created Saison du Buff, a farmhouse beer created by all three brewers using exact ingredients and brewing methods; then infused with individual yeasts, specifically chosen by each brewery. The results christened three new collaborative beers with a personality, unique, each unto themselves. Victory’s Saison du Buff tumbles in at 6.5% ABV by using Blauges yeast, the same yeast used in Victory Helios. “This beer was brewed with parsley, rosemary, sage, and lemon thyme,” said Covaleski. “We also used Citra hops - for a lemony touch, and Centennial for an American profile.” The results are an aromatic nose filled with fresh sage and herbal perfume; a golden body, resplendent with Belgian lace; and maximum stimulation to the flavor-nibs of the tongue. As an accompaniment to Saison du Buff, John & Kira’s chocolate collections heighten the sensual experience. Chocolate has long been known as an aphrodisiac, and John & Kira’s, crafted with velvety centers of Valrhona chocolate ganache, echo the herbal nuances found in Saison du Buff. Inside thin chocolate shells, herb-infused ganache awakens the palate with Papohaku ginger from Molokai, cinnamon merged with pistachio from Eagle Ranch Groves in New Mexico, Fair Trade Coffee from the Mut Vitz cooperative in Chiapas, organic lemongrass from La Vigne Organics near San Diego, and home-grown Garden Mint from the Urban School Program

in Philadelphia. You may also experiment with the Ladybug & Bee collection of handpainted ganache chocolates, each fashioned with shells of salted honey caramel and aromatic Basswood. Next, experience Local Nano, a tiny 1 BBL brewery located in Jeff Lavin’s inner sanctum at the Hulmeville Inn. Directed by 2010 Philly Beer Geek Steve Hawk, Local Nano infuses Maker’s Mark into Lavin Dude Mon, a Belgian Strong Ale of Hawk’s creative artistry that paints the lips with sweet, intense booziness, enough to hold you captive with sensual revelry. A short dance away, in New Brunswick, New Jersey, Kyle McDonald presents beers with beguiling temptation at Harvest Moon Brewery & Café. Enthusiastic brewers, like McDonald, understand the connection between beer and sustained pleasure, and the Harvest Moon beer portfolio reflects this connection. Settle-in for a moon dance and allow your palate the enticements of a British-style Barleywine, Moonlight Kolschbier, or Full Moon Pale Ale. Climax is imminent. According to Dave Hoffmann of Climax Brewing Company of Roselle Park, New Jersey, “Beer should be a pleasurable drinking experience.” And there is nothing more pleasurable than reveling in the rolling flavors of biscuit, chocolate, coffee, cream, and vanilla on the tongue. The name, Climax, represents the point of greatest excitement, not actually connected to a sexual experience, so “they” say… but Climax Limited-Edition Barleywine-style Ale, crafted for Climax’s 10th anniversary in 2006, has all the complexity of a climactic experience. It has been laid down for aging, allowing the sweeter flavors of caramel sweetness, vanilla, fig and raisin to become more balanced by complementary flavors of meadow grass, tangerines and dry forest floor. On the tongue, the silkiness of polished velvet lingers. Climax Extra Special Bitter (ESB) is so classically seductive that Beer Hunter Michael Jackson found it impossible to resist, succumbing to its fruity, soft, clean temperament, and documenting these impressions in two of his classic books, the Great Beer Guide: 500 Classic Brews and Ultimate Beer. As one of only 84 American beers showcased in

Jackson’s Great Beer Guide, Dave Hoffmann takes pride in his accomplishment of having brewed a recognized classic example of the style. Pair Climax ESB with marinated kebabs of tournedos of beef, tomolives, shrimp, pineapple, bell peppers, truffles, and bacon wrapped red onion. Follow with Hoffmann Doppelbock. As you drink in the ruddy brown body and thick, lasting ivory-tan head with your eyes, allow yourself the delectation of submitting to the roasted graham-cracker maltiness; dark, sugar-coated figs; caramel sweetness and cherries drenched in mocha-like chocolate. Add a pear, almond and apricot tart with poached pears … Climax unleashed. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

february/march 2011

Fun With Beer

The Making of a Beer Bottle Lamp Fun with lights. And of course, beer! By Terry Brophy In the October/November issue of Philly Beer Scene, Neil wrote about his cross country journey to the Great American Beer Festival in Denver, Colorado. Well, I had the “pleasure” (note the quotes) of joining him on this incredible trip where we stopped at some wonderful breweries and sampled some truly delicious beers. At one such location, the Upstream Brewing Company in Omaha, Nebraska, I spied a “growler” lamp in their gift area. I checked the price, turned to Neil and claimed, “Pffft…I can make that!” Of course not missing a beat, he said, “You can do it for Philly Beer Scene.” So here I am…I hope like me, you’ll discover it’s a really simple project that produces one beer geeky, but very cool lamp. Enjoy!

what you need Large beer bottle

Wire cutters

1 bottle lamp kit. (The kit can be found at your local Lowe’s or Home Depot)

Wire splitter Lamp shade Light bulb

Phillips Head screwdriver

how to do it Before starting, open the bottle lamp kit and you’ll find 3 bottle adapters in sizes ½, ¾ and 1 inch. Also included in the kit are a threaded nipple with nut, flange, 8 foot lamp cord and socket. Step 1: Choose the bottle adapter that fits the bottle you’ll be making into a lamp. Step 2: Thread the metal nipple into the adapter until about ¼ of an inch pops through the end of the adapter. Step 3: Next, thread the locknut onto the end of the metal nipple and tighten. Step 4: Adapter should be inserted into the bottle so that the ¼ section of the metal nipple is facing up.

the bottom portion of the socket), onto the nipple and tighten. Step 7: Next, feed the wire through the little hole in the socket cap. Separate the wire and tie an underwriters knot (see right) within the socket cap. Step 8: Slide the socket body from the socket shell and insulator sleeve. Connect the neutral conductor wire (this is one with ribbing on the white plastic coating) to the silver colored screw. Connect the other wire to the brass colored screw. Tighten screws and make sure the wires are secure under the screw heads.

Step 5: Slide the brass flange over the metal nipple.

Step 9: Slide the socket shell and the insulator sleeve back over the socket body. Feed the wire back into the lamp. Snap the brass shell onto the socket cap, moving it gently until it “clicks” and locks into place.

Step 6: Thread the socket cap (this is

Step 10: Install a light bulb and add a shade.

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february/march 2011

underwriter’s knot

Homebrewer’s Corner

The American Revolutionary War American, Great Britain and France join forces to create this historic brew. By Brett Mullin I have always been interested in the story behind the beer. Where it was made, where the name came from, what was the muse for the recipe, etc. As owner of Brew Your Own Bottle, a South Jersey home brew supply store, I hear a lot of these stories. I started brewing in 2002, and I’ve tried to make every beer that has an interesting background. I call this beer, “The American Revolutionary War.” The muse to the beer is the Wyeast Laboratories’ private collection of yeast. My mind automatically thought of barrels of grog being shipped to and from the colonies. I thought of the three main countries involved with the war: America, Great Britain, and France. I figured out how to incorporate a part of each into the brew. I decided America needed to be the base for the beer, so I used all American grains and hops, including American Victory Malt and Columbus hops. I decided that British yeast was the way to go because the yeast and Great Britain were essentially doing the same thing, consuming all that America (in this case, the grains) had to produce. France also played a huge role in finishing the war and put the finishing touch on my beer with their oak chips.

Ingredients and Directions Original Gravity 1.081 Final Gravity 1.014

The American Revolutionary War: By Brett Mullin The Procedure

Grains:

14 lbs. Domestic Two Row 1 lb. Victory Malt 1 lb. Rye Malt Hops:

1 oz. Cascade Hops 1oz. Columbus Hops 1oz. Citra Hops Adjuncts:

4 oz. French Oak Chips (medium toast) Yeast:

Wyeast British Cask Yeast

Step 1: Heat strike water to 170 degrees (dependent on the ambient temperature of your grains and mash tun). Step 2: Put grains and water into mash tun. Your mash temperature should be around 154 degrees. Let it rest for 60 minutes. Step 3: Begin sparge. Sparge temperature should also be around 170 degrees. Step 4: After wort has been collected, begin boiling. Step 5: Hop additions-1 oz. Cascade at 60 minutes. 1 oz. Columbus at 30 minutes. 0.5 oz. Citra at 15 minutes + Irish moss. 0.5 Oz Citra at 5 minutes. Flame out at 0 minutes. Step 6: Cool down the wort to 70 degrees

and transfer to primary fermenter. Then pitch one pack of British Cask Yeast. Step 7: Fermentation. This yeast is very active so you may want to use a blow off tube. Let the beer ferment until the gravity reaches 1.020-1.025, then transfer into secondary fermenter. Step 8: Boil 4 oz. medium toast French oak chips in a half gallon of water for ten minutes. Cool the chips down to 70 degrees, then add them to the beer. Step 9: Let the beer ferment on the oak for another nine days. Step 10: After the secondary fermentation is complete, it’s time to bottle or keg. If bottling, add 5 oz. of priming sugar to the beer and bottle. If kegging, well you know what to do.

february/march 2011

Cooking With Beer

Spaghetti ale-la Carbonara Dude Food is good, hearty food and here’s a leader in the category. Quick and easy, dishing out four manly-man servings. This particular dish is a specialty mix of grains, proteins, dairy, herbs, premium-tasting spices and Blue Point Brewing Company RastafaRye. Start to finish is about 30 minutes and that includes enjoying a beer while you’re preparing it. About The Creator: Butch Feeser enjoys the holistic experience of preparing good food with favorite music and adult beverages. A former professional rock ‘n’ roll drummer who recorded and toured internationally, he now has created Cape Seasonings (www.capeseasonings.com), based in Lewes, DE, to make happy taste-buds. His signature blend, SOUL BLEND, of 10 all-natural spices adds flavor and just the right amount of “heat” to all of your favorite dishes. Spaghetti ale-la Carbonara Ingredients

Directions:

• 1 lb. Dry Spaghetti • 1 tbs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil • 4 Strips of Hickory Smoked Bacon • 2 Medium Ham Steaks • 2 Medium Onions: Red and White • Mushrooms (Optional) • 1 Cup of Blue Point Brewing Company RastafaRye • 2 Garlic Cloves • 2 Eggs • Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese • Sea Salt • Black Pepper • Cape Seasonings SOUL BLEND© • Fresh Chopped Parsley

• Heat oil at medium high in a large pan. • Add the bacon – cook until crispy…save oil in pan; remove and drain bacon on paper towels. • Heat large pot of water for pasta. • Dice the onions and sauté in Olive Oil/ bacon-drippings mixture. • Lightly salt, pepper and season onions with SOUL BLEND©, stirring occasionally. • Add mushrooms…they hold taste. • Add diced ham steak. • Add 1/3 cup of beer…reduce to get all the flavor….thick and brownish. • Dice garlic cloves and add to onions and ham…cook for one minute to sauté but

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february/march 2011

not burn garlic….turn off heat. • When water is boiling, add spaghetti. Cook for 7 minutes, test for texture, then drain. • In a large mixing bowl, mix pasta with the two eggs – the eggs will cook on the hot pasta. • Add bacon, ham, onions, garlic, and mushrooms…mix well. • Add ½ Cup of beer and mix to thin pasta. • Shred cheese all over the pasta. • Add more SOUL BLEND© for taste and color. • Sprinkle with fresh cut parsley. • Drink more beer!

Thursday, February 3rd - Ballast Point Tower Takeover Thursday, February 17th - Ommegang Night Sunday, February 27th - Lew Bryson Pennsylvania Brewery Brunch Saturday, March 12th - Craft Beer Express - West Coast Extravaganza w/ Russian River

www.devilsdenphilly.com For Upcoming Events & Specials www.facebook.com/devilsdenphilly Please Visit our Website

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• Singles or mix and match 6 packs • Over 1200 beers in stock • 2 beers on tap for sampling 8 South Union St. • Lambertville, NJ 08530 • 609-397-0273 Store Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 9-9 • Fri.-Sat. 9-10 • Sun. 9-8 Follow us on Facebook at wonderful world of wine/beer

february/march 2011

Tapping into Technology

What’s On Tap? PhillyTapFinder.com helps you discover which bars are pouring your favorite beers and styles. By Zeke Diaz

10 rotating taps featuring locals & seasonals!

50+ Bottles & Cans Free-Wi-Fi | Smoking Bar

Always a Weekly Beer Special on Tap Happy Hour- Mon-Fri, 5-7 Everyday-$2 Bloody Marys & Mimosas (11am-3pm) Monday- Free Pool (open-close) Tuesday-Karaoke, 9-2 Wednesday-Quizzo, 7:30-9:00 Art Openings on the First Friday of Every Month, 7-9 *Ticket outlet for the Philly Roller Girls *Proud member of the 9th St. Businessmen’s Assoc.

831 Christian St, Philadelphia, Pa 19147

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Being a craft beer lover, I put beer into two broad categories. Nope, I don’t mean lagers and ales. I define the two categories as, “Beers I’ve drank” and “Beers to drink.” Nothing earth shattering there, right? When I go out to a bar, I rarely drink the same beer twice. That’s simply because I’m trying to maximize the number of beers I sample. I’ve made a personal choice to limit myself to three beers when I go out. That’s mainly because I can’t handle the shaky knees, bleary eyes and pounding headache the next day. Here is my dilemma: I want to drink specific beers and I need to find them easily. Philadelphia has a ton of beer bars and they have the beers that I want. And, although I get emails, Twitter feeds and Facebook updates, I’m not sure which bar has the beer I want to try. So, what to do? The solution was simple. I went to PhillyTapFinder (PhillyTapFinder.com) where I can search by beers, search by style or search by bars. The website is easy to use, intuitive and most importantly, updated almost daily. I think my favorite feature is searching by style. I know what I like to drink during these freaking cold winter days. American Barleywines, Winter Warmers and, of course, Russian Imperial Stouts will keep me warm and happy. I go to the website, search by style and voila! I have a list of bars carrying the style of the moment. Conversely, if I’m searching for a beer that I desperately want to try; I can do a search based on the name. If I’m in one of the neighborhoods listed on the website, I can find the craft beer bars. PhillyTapFinder started out of frustration by husband and wife team, Jared and Kristy, who at the time were beer novices and trying to find the beers they liked (sour/wildfermented ales and Berliner Weisse) was driving them nuts. Rather than run around looking for their beer, they created the PhillyTapFinder. This is currently a labor of love for them. Since Jared and Kristy are the only two employees, they tend to be hands on and visible. You can often find them making the rounds at your favorite watering hole, ensuring that the website is updated. They walk in, take a photo of the tap list and move on to the next location. Currently, the website does not cover every area of Philadelphia but the plans are to expand coverage to the entire city soon. Help them out by texting photos of the tap list to (267) 250-3767 or by filling out the form on the website. Sending in tap tips will get you some swag and the satisfaction of helping me find my next few beers. The more tips you send in, the better the swag is. Website access is easy through the iPhone, and my Blackberry friends say they can access it without any problems as well. You can follow PhillyTapFinder on Facebook (PhillyTapFinder Craft Beer Locator) and on Twitter (@phillytapfinder).

february/march 2011

A Philadelphia Beer Bar

1509 Mifflin St. 215.271.7787 southphiladelphiataproom.com

Wednesday is Craft Beer Day Different craft beer discounted every Wednesday!

Largest selection of German Beer in Philadelphia with 20 rotating taps!

On Facebook or Twitter @BrauhausSchmitz for updates on weekly specials and events. Thursday Night is Flight Night!

FEATURING BUCKS COUNTY’S WIDEST SELECTION

of craft beer and contemporary American food. Enjoy beers from Rogue, Troegs, Great Divide, Russian River, Rochefort, St. Bernardus, plus many more.

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20 Draft Beers Available 100 Bottled Beers Featuring the best in Bucks County for fall & winter beers

1297 Greeley Avenue • Ivyland, PA 18974

Always check out our website for upcoming events and specials

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february/march 2011

Discovering Craft Beer

How I Discovered Craft Beer Reader Scott Sherwood, describes his discovery of craft beer. If you have an interesting story about discovering craft beer, send it to us at discovery@beerscenemag.com Natty. Beast. Lionshead. Genny. High Life. Coors Light. Bud Heavy. These were the only beers that I knew. Young undergrads in college live by the same rules I did: these are the beers supplied to you; and you are happy in your ignorance. I went through a year and a half of college strictly abiding by those rules, until something magical happened. It was a cold Friday in December, way back in 2006, and my buddies and I were hosting a party. As per State College tradition, the fridge was stocked with all the Natty and Beast it could handle. It was early in the night, and we were entertaining ourselves with a few simple drinking games where the unlucky loser was forced to chug his swill. The apartment door opened, and one of my friends walked in carrying a six-pack of something that seemed to illuminate the room. Like a moth to a streetlight, I wandered over for a closer look, leaving my can of Natty behind. I studied the bottle in amazement. This was something that I had never seen or heard of before—it was Penn State, after all, and if the beer didn’t suck, it didn’t exist. The label depicted some sort of psychedelic elf holding some sort of fruit. Sensing my confusion, he explained, “It’s way sweet— brewed with honey and cherries. You’ll love it!” Of course, I had to give it a try. Instantly, there was an explosion of flavor that I had never experienced before. I was speechless. What was happening in my mouth? It was a far cry from the beer-flavored water on which I had been raised. Eventually, I found words that captured my emotions. “Holy shit! What the hell is this stuff? It’s great!” My friend sat me down, told me all about Tröegs’ Mad Elf Ale, and my formal craft beer education had begun. My excitement about this flavorful new universe took off—I wanted to try as many

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different kinds of craft beer as I could. A month later, the same buddy (who I love very much) showed up at my door with a new Tröegs six-pack: Nugget Nectar. I popped the top and took a swig. Overwhelming hoppy goodness and floral notes rushed across my palate. We weren’t in Kansas anymore. I searched the local bar scene high and low to find a place with a good craft selection. I bounced from bar to bar, trying new and great beer at every stop to improve my knowledge as if I were in a Rocky IV training montage. Not long after, I learned of the one place in State College with an unmatched selection of craft beers—Zeno’s, which of course became my home away from home. I discovered there was much more to the world of beer than I thought. I became a student of styles, the brewing process, and

february/march 2011

even locations of breweries. Eventually, I convinced my friends to join me in my cause and become as adamant about beer as I was. Together, we decided to tackle Zeno’s “Around the World in 80 Beers” challenge, where the reward is immortal fame on a plaque on the wall. I completed the challenge in two months. My new lifestyle of loving craft beer has continued to grow, not only spiritually, but also materially. Throughout the rest of my college days, and since graduation, I have been working on a bottle collection, with one bottle from every different beer I have tried. To date, my collection stands at 275 and continues to expand, with every bottle bringing me twelve ounces closer to craft beer nirvana.

Beer Travel

Craft Beer - Nebraska Born Nebraska is brewing up some innovative beers for the East & West Coast. By Paul Kavulak Good beer can come from anywhere. Think about it. Today’s craft beer culture tends to gravitate toward the new, the untried, or the undiscovered. We’re always asking our bartender, “What’s new?” And when you get right down to it – it’s the beer that matters most – not where it comes from. So really, it should come as no surprise that the center of the U.S. can turn out some pretty good beers. It used to be somewhat cliché that when people think of Nebraska, they go right to the mental picture of barns, cows, and tractors. But, we’re doing our best to have that mental picture include a pint in that farmer’s hand – a good pint, and not that damn commodity stuff either. The state of Nebraska boasts 12 operating breweries, either in micro or brewpub form and they’re working incredibly hard to educate the locals and find a foothold on a regional stage. From a numbers perspective, with roughly 1,600 operating breweries in the U.S., 12 is a very small number. In spite of the minority status, or maybe because of it, the beers produced are migrating away from the average and into the remarkable in some cases. Within the past few months, brands from Nebraska Brewing Company have shown up on both coasts, in addition to some select regions more suited to elevated craft beers – but they can’t be the only one, right? Turns out, 6 of those 12 package and distribute beer in some form. While Nebraska Brewing Company may have distribution in the broadest sense, they’re not the largest – not by a long shot. Thunderhead, Empyrean, SchillingBridge, Spilker, Upstream, and Lucky Bucket move beers around more locally than broadly and should be sought out when you find yourself roaming through the Midwest. Locally, there are a number of great tap bars in the Omaha metro area where the enlightenment burns brightest. Truly welcoming places like The Crescent Moon, The Brass Monkey, The Foundation, The Library in Omaha and The Bricktop & Yia

Yia’s in Lincoln, find themselves as the post-graduate craft beer schools when people realize that the Old Chicago’s really aren’t the go-to scene for great beers after all. And, what’s best about these places is that they are breeding the thirst for more. Every craft beer movement needs a heart, and Nebraska has one. Given a craft beer landscape that burns relatively brightly, why then take Nebraska beer to the coasts? No single answer truly sums it up, but when you go back to that mental image we talked about earlier, there are some great people here. However, it turns out that there are many more wonderful craft beer enthusiasts who aren’t here. Sure, we could wait for people to travel through the area, drop in and have a couple pints

or we could work to get our beer into the hands of people in other, more mature craft beer markets, getting it into other local shops, bars, and restaurants that appreciate diversity and truly well made beers. We choose the latter. Philly has been getting Nebraska Brewing Company’s Reserve Series beers for a good portion of 2010 and so far, the reception has gone as expected. From the initial “who??” and on into acceptance, Philly has proven that it’s the beer that matters most and believe it or not, good beer can come from anywhere.

february/march 2011

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february/march 2011

Custom Pool Tables

Golf Games & More!

Not Beer

Boozy Popcorn Metropolitan Bakery introduces us to popcorn’s new counterparts: stout and bourbon. By Alicia Eichelman

Metropolitan Bakery beat you to the punch, releasing a hand-to-head-smacking, so simple-it-is-almost stupid, “Why the hell didn’t I think of that product?” Handmade, boozy popcorn. In a way, it makes perfect sense. Whether watching a movie or at a Phillies game, often one finds themselves with a brew in one hand, and a bag of popcorn in the other. So, why not combine them? Metropolitan Bakery, located in various spots around the city including, Reading Terminal Market and Rittenhouse Square, took it one step further, creating a salty and sweet artisan temptation that pleases the palate much like your favorite beer. When head baker and Founder, James Barrett, had a craving for caramel corn last summer, he wanted something that would provide an extra kick. The result of that craving was three distinct styles of signature popcorn, with two of these flavors emphasizing libations. This includes, the Bourbon Infused Popcorn, with notes of bourbon that blend perfectly with hints of caramel to create a smooth and crunchy sensation. There is also the Stout with Smoked Almonds Popcorn that pairs the malty chocolate undertones of stouts with bits of smoked almonds. For those interested in the non-boozy offerings, the Spiced Peanut Butter Popcorn provides just the right amount of sweet and spicy; combining curry, corn and peanut flavors. Each bite elicits a wide-eyed and eyebrow raising, sweet and salty hit to your taste-buds that standard buttered popcorn fare just can’t match. And, as with all Metropolitan Bakery products, this popcorn is handmade, using all natural, high quality ingredients for an indulgence you can feel good about. Metropolitan Bakery suggests pairing these treats with your favorite beer, cocktail or ice cream. Perhaps, even the Philly Beer Week Rogue Chocolate Stout gelato from Capogiro (see “Not Beer,” Issue 7). Much like the components of your favorite beer, the boozy popcorn ingredients work in perfect unison to deliver a delicious but balanced kick, combining the rich flavors of stouts and bourbons with the salty goodness of one of America’s favorite snacks. To order or to have your popcorn flavors of choice shipped anywhere in the country, visit metropolitanbakery.com or call 1.877.41.BREAD.

february/march 2011

You’ve Been Served

The Champagne Flute I don’t recommend this one for every day use unless you want to wrap your huge mitt around a dainty glass, but the champagne flute does have its benefits. By Scott Willey

The champagne flute is more beneficial to the appearance of craft beer than it is to enhancing the aromas or flavors of your brew. The elongated, cylindrical body is excellent for showing off a beer’s color as well as showcasing the carbonation in a livelier beer. The long body helps in trapping the bubbles to the side of the glass, and tends to keep the carbonation from dissipating too quickly, ensuring that your brew stays well carbonated from start to finish. This glass is one that I would save for special occasions and for special beers. It typically ranges in size from 5oz. to 10oz., so it is an excellent choice to do a tasting of that special ale you have been sitting on for five years. Champagne Suggested Styles to be Enjoyed is often used for celebrating, and with more and more in a Champagne Flute people turning to rare and craft beers, this glass adds a Bière de Champagne / Bière Brut bit of elegance to any celebratory beer occasion. Its major Dortmunder downfall is the size, considering the fact that if you pour Eisbock a beer with a generous head, you are going to end up Lambic with a glass of foam as opposed to a taste of the actual Vienna Lager brew. All in all, the champagne flute is more for show Weizenbock and sharing than being a practical beer drinking vessel.

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february/march 2011

From the Cellar

Experiment and Enjoy This month’s featured comparison is a cellered 2002 St. Bernardus Abt 12 and a 2010 St. Bernardus Abt 12. By Phillip Pittore III

Cellaring beer is not an art. There are no guarantees, no matter how many precautions you take. But, the rewards greatly outweigh the risks. Choosing a particular beer for each issue is a daunting task. With so many styles, and even more flavors, I’m forced to ask myself which beers will have reader appeal and why? More importantly, will these beers be available to those who read this article? This particular tasting taught me a valuable lesson; not all cellared beers can and should be laid down for equal amounts of time. It’s a chess match which you must be willing to lose once in awhile, to win in the long run. A favorite beer of mine, St. Bernardus Abt 12, was an easy choice. I sell a lot of it (at Wonderful World of Wines) and it’s my go-to beer of choice for customers willing to expand their palate. Having pulled a 2002 from the cellar, and a 2010 from the store, I was openly optimistic and excited. Upon first glance, the two bottles were completely different. The 2002 St. Bernardus was a 12oz. bottle with a light blue label, whereas the 2010 was much darker and newly designed. Both beers were 10% ABV. When poured side by side, the 2002 yielded a much darker hue than the 2010. The 2010, however, was murkier. This seems to be a common trait in most of the Belgian ales I’ve compared to date. The 2010 St. Bernardus Abt 12 was highly carbonated. The 2002 had considerably less. Both beers provided a lingering off white head, with the 2010 lasting throughout the entire tasting. The aroma from the 2002 was quite indubitable. Bouquets of plums, raisins and various sweet fruits were prevalent. The 2010 St. Bernardus, on the other hand, was a bit musty. It had no discernible fragrances of its antiquated counterpart. First taste from the 2002 yielded an incredibly sweet and boozy characteristic. Hints of apple and candy sugar dominated the palate. The 2010 St. Bernardus was quite effervescent. There was an unmistakable tinny quality which numbed my tongue. This was due in large part to the alcohol and carbonation in my opinion. True to most of the comparisons so far, the vintage bottle has been significantly better. After fifteen minutes, the complexities of both the 2002 and 2010 started to yield their greatness. After a half hour, the 2002 began to yield a bit of oxidation, which personally, I like. I realize this is an off flavor, but a hint of oxidation adds character and a sense of history. It means I’ve pushed the envelope as far as I could to yield the best that particular beer has to offer. Not every beer you cellar will age well. But the more bottles you lay down, the greater the opportunity for success. I’m reminded of an ancient Czech proverb which states, “A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it’s better to be thoroughly sure.”

february/march 2011

Bring It All Back Home

How Brian Ewing turned his expensive beer runs into 12% Imports. By Kyle Park

“My opinion is that almost all American craft beer is overrated.”

This sort of statement would surely offend many a beer geek, but Brian Ewing admits that he does enjoy a select few American brews, though overall, finds that they pale in comparison to those found abroad. This sentiment is shared by several beer connoisseurs, but how many of them actually do something about it? Ewing is the man behind 12 Percent Imports, one of the leading importers of rare and unique beers coming out of Europe. Based in New York City, Ewing travels the world in search of the best beers he can get his hands on and brings them stateside for American drinkers. His initial inspiration to start 12 Percent goes back nearly ten years when he began to get into good beer himself. “I really gravitated towards Belgian stuff. The first beers I fell in love with were Duvel and La Chouffe. That was my entryway and when I get into things, I get pretty obsessive about them,” he says. After some healthy debate and a promise to visit Paris for a couple of days, Ewing convinced his wife to reroute their annual holiday vacation and head to Belgium for a trip based around the country’s beer scene.

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february/march 2011

Before arriving, Ewing did plenty of research and tried as best as he could to plan the ultimate beer vacation. He spent the better part of a week finding bars, cafes, and breweries that were off the beaten path. In doing so, he was exposed to an array of new styles and flavors as he sampled a wide variety on his first whirlwind tour of the Belgian beer scene. “I was hooked and as soon as we got back, I booked my next trip for three months later,” Ewing remarks. “That time, I went by myself, I could not convince my wife to go with me every three months.” Ewing returned to Belgium a few months later where he set out to expand upon what he learned on that first visit. Ewing continued to take vacations to Europe every three or four months, specifically for beer. He got to know Belgium very well, taking a seemingly overwhelming task and making it very manageable by focusing his trips on beer alone. Ewing states,“I started to fall in love with some breweries that were very small, very out of the way, and that no one had really heard of before and there were a good number of them.” Even in Belgium, not every brewery he visited was making particularly memorable beer. It was the other brewers, the ones creating truly unique and superior beers, that Ewing found, “magical and completely unique and I absolutely had to find a way to get them here for myself.” He knew there was no going back, “Once you develop a better taste for something, you’re not going to lose

“I, at one point, brought nine cases of Belgian beer you couldn’t get here. I paid for it, obviously, in terms of excess baggage and my wife almost killed me but I would do that kind of thing just to have it here to share with friends.”

february/march 2011

that.” He had to find a way to get these beers into the United States. He began bringing these beers home just so he would be able to drink them himself. Ewing says he was able to do crazy things before all of the stipulations on bringing liquids on-board planes were in place. “I, at one point, brought nine cases of Belgian beer you couldn’t get here. I paid for it, obviously, in terms of excess baggage and my wife almost killed me, but I would do that kind of thing just to have it here to share with friends. My wife calls them ‘the most expensive beer runs ever.’” He was so fully devoted to these Belgian beers that he felt compelled to do something more serious with this passion, rather than just going through all this trouble for himself. At the time, he did not see himself changing careers completely, but knew that he could turn this hobby into something substantial and maybe make a profit in doing so. The initial idea was to start his own bar, one that would not offer anything mainstream, but instead, offer the kinds of beers he himself had discovered and enjoyed so much. After thinking about how he could faithfully fulfill that idea, he realized just how difficult it would be to get the beers he wanted to share with his potential patrons. An importer’s license was the only answer. If he was to become an importer of these unknown beers he would need cooperation from the creators, the brewers themselves. He had become relatively familiar with a handful of the brewers he had been visiting over the years and so, he first approached those he felt most comfortable with. Most of the brewers he knew were not full time brewers, they were just some dedicated men with day jobs who brewed during nights and weekends. The breweries were not large operations by any means, some had little more than glorified homebrew setups that just happened to be producing some great beer. Given their limited output, it appeared to be a daunting task to sell these 32

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brewers on the idea of producing enough beer to import it to the United States. However, all six breweries that Ewing first approached had accepted his proposition and signed a deal by the end of 2006. “I figured we’d bring in this container of beer, not be able to sell any of it and I’d be drinking it for the rest of my life. But that was cool, I was willing to do it,” Ewing explains. Ultimately, he had enough confidence in his idea and in the beer. In 2007, Ewing officially formed 12 Percent Imports with six breweries offering sixteen different beers to his distinctive portfolio. He named his company after a transformative beer that he had at The Kulminator, a beer bar in Belgium that, at the time, Ewing considered the very best in the world (he now thinks the Mikkeller Bar takes the cake). This memorable bar offered pretty much anything a beer lover could possibly want with a bottle list where one could find a 1980 bottle of Chimay Grand Reserve on any given day. The one revelatory beer, ‘t Gaverhopke Extra from Brouwerij Gaverhopke, clocked in at 12% ABV and inspired the company name. That beer, once a hidden Belgian treasure, is now available in the United States because of Ewing and 12 Percent. Although the company had been established and the breweries were signed on, there was still plenty of logistical hurdles to overcome before 12 Percent could actually sell these beers. At this point, Ewing was still maintaining a full time job and like some of the brewers he knew, handling the business of beer on nights and weekends. There was the option of selling these beers to an already established distributor but in doing so, Ewing would have given up his personal connection which he quickly realized was out of the question. These unheard of Belgian beers would simply not move off the shelves if they were to be sold to another distributor. These were beers that he knew and loved deeply, so he felt strongly that they be represented properly. Because of this, Ewing waited another nine months for his own distribution license which would enable him to represent these brewers the way he felt they deserved to be. After all of the legwork, licenses, permits, and waiting around was finished, 12 Percent sold its first beer in October of 2008 in New York City. It started out, and is still to this day, a very small operation, but people took notice of what Ewing was doing. His phone began ringing and his inbox filled with emails from people wondering how they could get his beer. Case by case, Ewing was making deliveries out of the back of his Prius and continued to operate this way for some time. In early 2009, 12 Percent expanded to Maryland and Philadelphia where they have experienced great success. With steady growth since then, their impressive portfolio of beer now includes twelve breweries which are licensed in twenty-two states across the country. While 12 Percent will surely continue to include more breweries, Ewing maintains that he will be keeping the company small enough for him to personally manage it. He runs 12 Percent with a quality over quantity philosophy. Given its size and density, New York City is 12 Percent’s most successful market but in Ewing’s opinion, Philly has the greatest

beer scene in the country. He understands that beer means so much more to the average Philadelphian than any New Yorker and is not afraid to admit that. In his love for Belgian beer, Ewing appreciates how Philadelphia embraced the same sentiment and sees Monk’s Cafe’s Tom Peters as the chief architect in introducing it to the United States in a large format. Being the man behind 12 Percent has given Ewing plenty of opportunities to travel to his various U.S. markets and solidifies his belief that no other city has such a ubiquitous and varied selection of beer as Philadelphia. While he has enjoyed the fine beer cultures of cities like San Francisco and Portland, he found them far too locally dominated. When 12 Percent first arrived in Philly, Ewing wasn’t all that familiar with the city, but knew of the flourishing beer scene and immediately gravitated to bars like Monk’s, Tria, and Eulogy. After a few weekend trips to Philadelphia, he realized that there were so many other fantastic bars that were not simply pushing the local craft beer selections but rather, had a much broader selection available. Ewing knows there is a reason that Philadelphians are able to get brews from Russian River and The Lost Abbey but cannot fully explain why. He can only say that quality beer has been coming into Philly the longest and has therefore, become the focal point that it is. As far as Ewing can tell, America’s desire for better beer is not going anywhere, which gives him great confidence in the future. “We’re at such an amazing point in history as far as the quality of beer that’s being brewed. Just in terms of cross-pollination, stylistically, across countries and also how young and vibrant the brewing scene is right now. I just think we’re going to keep going up for a while,” Brian states. 12 Percent continues to expand its reach in Philly and beyond, giving fans a lot to look forward to. By March, Ewing plans on expanding their portfolio to include seventeen breweries and continues to keep his ear to the ground for the next best thing in beer. He will continue to run his one man show without compromising the integrity of the brands he is proud to represent. When he started out, he had no idea how to sell beer. But, by following his passion and relentless ambition, he has managed to turn an idea into a truly unique enterprise. He invested his life savings into 12 Percent and entered an already flooded market of great beer, but has managed to fulfill his initial goal.

“This started out on my own and it’s going to stay that way. I try to keep it as personal and simple as I can.” december 2010/january 2011

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The Show Must Go On Remembering the life of the great Bruce Nichols. Vibrant with life, passionate, creative, a joy to be aroundâ&#x20AC;Śthese are just a few of the many ways to describe the life of Bruce Nichols. A man that loved life and loved to share his passion for beer, Bruce was one of the key people in creating this amazing beer community that we are a part of. Sadly, after a brief bout with leukemia, Bruce Nichols has left us, leaving a giant, irreplaceable void in the beer community. Intro By Mat Falco

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GOOOONNNGGGG!!!

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Photo courtesy Philly Beer Week

Every time this sound is heard in the Philadelphia beer community, chances are thoughts drift to memories of the legendary beer tastings at the Penn Museum. As each festival was about to end, the incomparable Bruce Nichols would roll out his ancient gong and with a smile that will never be forgotten, whack the gong to announce the end of the event. Though many beer lovers may not have met Bruce or knew him on a personal level, Bruce has played a major part in their life nonetheless. Philadelphia is home to one of the greatest beer cultures in the world and many thanks for that are due to this man. It was his passion that brought the “Beer Hunter” Michael Jackson to this great city. Remember, it was Jackson who originally declared Philadelphia one of the greatest beer cities in the world. A proclamation of mass importance in the development of our beer culture. Without Bruce befriending this man and bringing him to share his love for beer at such classic events as “The Book and the Cook,” who knows how successful our beer scene would have been. But, he did come and this culture did develop and thrive, and it allowed Bruce to help create one of the most unique and greatest beer events in the world, Philly Beer Week. Along with Don Russell and Tom Peters, Bruce set out to do what no other city or country had done before; turn an entire city into a week long beer festival. In 2008, this idea came to fruition and Bruce was more than responsible for an event that has grown to epic proportions and led to over twodozen imitators throughout the country. An achievement beer lovers worldwide should be forever grateful for. When Philly Beer Week rolls around again year after year and every other time you’re enjoying a great beer in this great city, raise a glass in Bruce’s honor and remember what he helped do to get that awesome beer in your hand. Cheers to you, Bruce Nichols.

Rosemarie Certo: Founder, Dock Street Brewing Co. “Bruce was a great guy- it’s unreal that he’s no longer here. Bruce had his pulse on the future. He was broad-minded and open to anything that was out of the ordinary. When we started Dock Street Brewing Company in 1985, Bruce was one of our biggest supporters. We first met Michael Jackson in 1986 at the Great American Beer Festival. We quickly bonded and in 1990, we invited Michael Jackson to Dock Street, Philadelphia, at 18th and Cherry St. for one of the first national food and beer dinner events called ‘The Book and Cook.’ Subsequently, we introduced Michael Jackson to Bruce and another great Philadelphia relationship was forged. The most precious gift that Bruce possessed was a genuine curiosity and a real interest and love for people.”

Carolyn Smagalski: Beer Editor of BellaOnline “Bruce Nichols and I shared an unspoken connection, one of mutual respect and friendship. He was the bridge that led me to that first karmic meeting with Michael Jackson and, in turn, to countless encounters with many knowledgeable and witty people who were to become close friends within the beer world. Bruce and I shared an understanding that ‘the show must go on.’ Let me illustrate with a memorable anecdote about MJ’s last appearance at the Penn Museum in 2007. ‘The Bard’ had just arrived from London the day he was to present a Friday evening beer dinner with Sam Calagione at the museum, only to discover that he had left his insulin in England (he was diabetic). He wasn’t to need it until midday on Saturday, so things were still in control. It didn’t take long for the situation to careen out of control – it was a weekend, there was a 5-hour time difference between Philadelphia and London, medications differed between countries, and we found impossible delays in getting Michael what he needed. Bruce had 3,000 people who were expecting to see Michael Jackson at the museum that Saturday for his annual Tutored Beer Tastings. I contacted Bruce to give him an update, while MJ and I fought to overcome the roadblocks inherent in the U.S. medical laws. Bruce stayed cool and steady under such pressure. When we finally arrived at the museum, a bit late, Bruce was busy onstage entertaining the crowd, while a service elevator was readied for our quick transport to the Upper Egyptian Gallery. Bruce remained unruffled, courteous, and welcoming when we arrived. Cool as a cucumber. That was Bruce. Always a gentleman – a gracious host, a well-educated, brilliant conversationalist with a lifetime of experiences that others would envy – and yet, he was brimming with empathy for those around him. Bruce Nichols served the beer community as Chairman of the Board for Philly Beer Week. Some may wonder whether Philly Beer Week will carry on with the same strength it had garnered under the direction of Mr. Nichols. He left us his legacy: ‘The show must go on.’ May we all continue with such inspiration.”

Jack Curtin: Beer Blogger-“Jack Curtin’s Liquid Diet” “For years, I only knew Bruce as the guy in the suit who ran the Jackson Tastings at the [Penn] Museum. Then, I turned around one night at Standard Tap during the first Philly Beer Week and there he was in a cowboy shirt, looking like one of us. Bruce was one of us, and since he was the person most responsible for bringing Michael [Jackson] to town for all those years and a co-founder of Philly Beer Week, I have to believe he was welcomed heartily at the gates of Beer Heaven, maybe by MJ himself.”

Lew Bryson: Beer Writer & Author “Bruce was one of the very first people who treated me with some respect in Philadelphia. He didn’t do many beer events in the early days, but he didn’t miss anything. A gentleman in a sometimes good-naturedly coarse business; that was Bruce.”

Don Russell: Co-Founder of Philly Beer Week, Beer Writer “I’ve spent many, many hours with Bruce and Tom over the past few years, building Philly Beer Week. We’ve sat at meetings together and planned festivals. One of my best memories is of the three of us – Bruce, Tom and myself – driving up to Muller Beverage in the Northeast to pose for photos for Philadelphia magazine. It was raining and miserable, but Bruce was having the time of his life, laughing and scaling huge stacks of beer cases, climbing on top of a forklift to pose for these photos. Naturally, I’m heartened by the success of Philly Beer Week. And, I’ve gotten to drink a hell of a lot of great beer. But, I can tell you that I never would have had so much fun, so much joy if I hadn’t been doing it with Tom and Bruce. Many of you, as I said earlier, got to know Bruce from his many years of work, producing beer festivals at the Penn Museum. Of course, if you’ve ever attended one of those festivals, you knew it was over when Bruce rolled out that giant antique gong and drummed the surface. The gong would fill the rotunda, echoing and echoing and echoing around the room. Most everyone would grab a last beer and head for the doors. But if you caught a glimpse of Bruce, you’d see him standing there, the mallet in his hand, smiling – laughing – at the commotion. I can still see that smile… I can still hear that gong… Bruce’s echo rings on.”

Tom Peters: Co-Founder of Philly Beer Week, Owner of Monk’s Cafe “I lost a good friend today and so did the entire Philadelphia beer community. Bruce Nichols lost his battle with leukemia. Bruce was President of Museum Catering Company and co-founder of Philly Beer Week. Bruce was a voice of reason, always calm and had an innate ability to bring people together. Bruce, myself and Don Russell organized the first Philly Beer Week with the help of many bars, restaurants, distributors, brewers, etc. Bruce was always a driving force behind the Philly beer movement. He was also adept at keeping us crazy beer people organized and on-point. Philly Beer Week would have never happened without his ideas and positive energy. Bruce is the person that brought famed beer writer, Michael Jackson, to Philly, way back in 1991. Bruce Nichols hosted Michael at the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archeology and Anthropology for ‘The Book & The Cook’ event. That single beer event drew more people than any 10 food events combined. Thus, began the real emergence of the Philadelphia beer culture. Bruce and Michael combined for seventeen annual beer events, each more challenging than the previous. Bruce really helped push the boundaries of beer culture in Philadelphia. We are all thankful and grateful for all that Bruce has done for us. Bruce will be missed by all who were close to him and the beer community has lost a good friend and champion. I raise a glass to your life, Bruce. Goodbye, my friend.”

february/march 2011

Ménage à Trois

Passionate threesomes for the beer lover. By Elizabeth Begosh & Paul Lawler • Intro by Mat Falco • Photography by Brittany Ostrov

With the Valentine’s season upon us, love is definitely on the minds of most. But let’s face it, so is beer. To align ourselves with the holiday celebrating love and affection, and to deepen our appreciation for beer, we decided to pair some favorites with the Valentine’s Day staple- chocolate, as well as some premier fromage. Nothing brings out the heart and rich complexities within the soul of a beer better than delicate chocolates and young or matured cheeses. To draw out the inner bliss from these pairings, local cheesemonger, Paul Lawler and chocolatier, Elizabeth Begosh, have shared their palates to help you fall in love all over again with an assortment of local beers to bring new depths of passion for Valentine’s favorites. Elizabeth Begosh is the owner of Betty’s Speakeasy on the western edge of Center City. Specializing in handcrafted chocolate desserts, many of which are created with the use of beer, Betty’s was created 38

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with the intentions to confirm Elizabeth’s belief that freshness and quality can be tasted. With local and organic ingredients taking center stage, Betty’s has delivered, serving some of the finest chocolate products in the city. Paul Lawler is a local cheesemonger who has been researching his passion for cheese for years. Paul currently runs the cheese fridge at the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. Prior to Fair Food, he spent his time at a variety of specialty cheese shops as well as working at the source and apprenticing at local cheese creameries. Today, his passion is focused on local cheese and the incredible growth amongst these cheese makers. All these cheese/chocolates are available at the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market and Betty’s Speakeasy, located at 2241 Grays Ferry Ave., Philadelphia, PA.

Dogfish Head Indian Brown Ale Aw Snap! Another more savory pairing is done with the Indian Brown Ale by Dogfish Head. There are so many wonderful spice notes in the ale that it seems the perfect match for Aw Snap! A favorite milk chocolate fudge, Aw Snap! is made with a Moroccan spice mixture we blend in-house. Cloves, black pepper and ginger are revealed in the milk chocolate to pair with the rich molasses and chocolate flavors of the Dogfish Head brew. The finish of the duo is slightly sweet and warm.

Dwight Ely’s Washington Crossing A warming winter pair if ever there was one. Washington Crossing is a big cheese: toffee-sweet aged gouda meets the gym-sock tang of sharp Provolone and the spice of a classic Romano. Dogfish Head’s Indian Brown Ale confounds its style as well, with bigger hops than most brown ales and a lasting complex flavor. Together, it’s a clash of titans who settle it out sweetly in the sandbox.

Weyerbacher Blithering Idiot Rich’s Little Tart Weyerbacher’s Blithering Idiot has sturdy honey notes as well as earthy, toffee flavors that make this barleywine strong. Paired with the slightly tart, but mostly red fruit taste of Rich’s Little Tart, we get extra flavors like dates and raisins on the palate. Our dark chocolate fudge, incorporating dried cherries and a hint of almond extract, brings out a grape-like flavor that is sweet but not cloying and the high alcohol cuts the strong fruit flavors so the finish is clean and dry.

Keswick Creamery Blue Suede Moo Blue Suede Moo is a countrified raw milk Stilton via central PA, rough around the edges but with a sweet subtle range of flavors in the paste. The texture is somewhere between fudge and buttercream icing and provides the perfect vehicle for the thick and buttery English barleywine from Easton. A mole-like blend of spices and dark chocolate present in the cheese, balance the boozy dark red fruits of this heady brew. At the end of it, I’m left with the feeling I’ve just ingested a super boozy, chocolate cordial truffle. Not a bad aftereffect in my book.

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Lancaster Brewing Co. Strawberry Wheat Balsamic Fudge With Lancaster Brewing Company’s Strawberry Wheat, the prominent flavors are, you guessed it, strawberries and wheat. An additional flavor should complement these two ingredients which suggested to us our Balsamic Fudge. The tanginess of aged balsamic vinegar in sweet, dark chocolate brings forth the crisp strawberry notes without tasting like candy. Likewise, the hops and wheat lend a slight bitterness to the strawberry flavor. The pairing works together to add fruit to the palate without too much sweetness.

Amazing Acres Banon A pairing perfect for a picnic date, nothing says love like berries and goat cheese. Here, we’ve got a delicate disc of goat cheese enrobed in brandy soaked grape leaves and tied up with raffia and a Strawberry Wheat beer. We get what one might call a strawberry shortcake effect: a pleasant play on strawberries and cream, underpinned by the beer’s wheat style. The fruity aromas of the cheese echo those of our beer, and the sweetness in the beer just sinks right into the Banon’s mellow booziness.

Troegs Brewing Co. Troegenator Ben’s Smokehouse We knew we would pair my collaborator and store manager, Adriane’s favorite fudge, Ben’s Smokehouse, with something special. We describe this fudge, made with smoked sea salt, as “a dark chocolatecovered pretzel without the pretzel” and it never disappoints. The flavor is a great combo with the big malt flavors of the Troegenator from Troegs Brewing Company. This is an outstanding example of what many describe as umami, that savory, almost meaty taste that is not described as any of the four usual tastes. Smoked nuances become more substantial in both the fudge and beer. Make sure there are a couple of pieces of Ben’s Smokehouse with a pint of the Troegenator because you will want more.

Gridley from God’s Country Creamery Gridley, an aged-out, raw milk Gruyere-style cheese, displays a bright, fruity acidity in front of a classic alpine nutty base and pasture-fresh grassy backbone. It’s a toothsome mighty cheese, whose bold character can stand up to this heady brew and help its defining Munich malts shine.

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Sly Fox Black Raspberry Reserve Betsy’s Firecracker Sly Fox creates the Black Raspberry Reserve with over a pound of berries for every gallon produced. The result may be too full of sour fruit for most of us to drink on its own, but we saw this as a challenge and were blown away with the results. Several chocolates tackled the deep purple brew but Betsy’s Firecracker, our dark chocolate fudge made with cayenne pepper, was a star. This is why pairings can be so eye-opening, the combination of two tastes creates a third “wow” flavor that is its own flavor. The Reserve gives a sense of green raspberry seeds that match nicely with the fruit-like qualities in the chocolate, but then, the cayenne sneaks through to finish on the taste-buds, warm and clean.

Shellbark Hollow Sharp Goat Cheese Shellbark Hollow farm is located right down the road from Sly Fox, where a herd of floppy eared Nubian goats munch on local flora and high quality alfalfa. The creaminess of Pete Demchur’s award winning Sharp chevre will nicely cut the carbonation of this bright brew. The intense, right outta the berry patch head and finish on the brew will play well with the bright earthy tang of Shellbark Sharp. For a Valentine’s dessert surprise, seek out the heart-shaped versions Pete and his crew are offering for the holiday.

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Victory Brewing Co. Moonglow Weizenbock Molten Malt Chocolate Cake The prominent wheat and caramel flavors of Victory’s Weizenbock are a tricky pairing for desserts because of its assertiveness. A glass of this Victory beer would certainly cry out for traditional pub fare, so, I looked for a dessert that could offer some sour and salty flavors. I went for a tangy dark chocolate treat with our Molten Malt Chocolate Cake. Our own aged malt vinegar goes into this flourless chocolate cake with a super bittersweet result. It may not be an order of frites, but the Weizenbock’s complex flavors deserve to step out for a fancy treat now and then.

Calkins Creamery Noble Road Moonglow reeks of fall (think Asian pears and honeycrisp apples) but also of spices like mace, clove and cracked pepper. Typically, I’d turn to fresh goat cheese, but nothing says love like a lush and creamy, bloomy rind like Noble Road cheese. Dairy maven Emily Montgomery’s Noble Road cheese is handcrafted in small batches in the Poconos and is a rare example of raw milk brie. Noble Road is entirely more dynamic than your uniformly white coated supermarket brie and is worth seeking out. It’s luxurious cheese, as ice cream texture is perfectly punctuated by the spicy German hops in this brew. Its earthy flavor profile and peppery finish on the rind provide a nice complement to all that bold harvest fruit on the palate.

Yards Brewing Co. Love Stout Brotherly Love Yards Brewing Co. makes the Love Stout only in draught right now, which is a perfect reason for a trip to the brewery. Made with oysters, it has an ever-so-slight saltiness, but what I find that comes through right from the beginning is its smoothness. To complement the subtlety of flavors, Brotherly Love seems appropriate in both name and taste. This double decker fudge is made with our signature dark chocolate and cacao nib and white chocolate fudge on top. This gives both the creaminess of the white chocolate along with the little crunches of bitterness which come from the unprocessed chocolate in the nibs. Together the fudge and stout offers shadowy flavors of coffee and leather that are lightened by a creamy toffee finish.

PA Noble from Wakefield Dairy PA Noble is an Amish crafted cave-aged in Lancaster organic cheese – typically characterized as a cheddar, but really leagues more complex than most cheddars. It has an intense flavor profile: musky barnyard flavors, “browned” meat (think sear before stew) flavor, toasted oat and buttery brioche all commingle. Love Stout’s similar complexity of floral and caramel at once complement and rein in this cheese nicely, pulling its unruly flavors into pleasant harmony with the silky texture and roasted malts present in this brew.

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Flying Fish Exit 13 Creme Brulee Fudge While some may see a chocolate stout like Flying Fishâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Exit 13 as a slam dunk to pair with a chocolate dessert, I feel this is worth extra thought. Besides having two competing sugar flavors, two different chocolates can be a mammoth task for the palate to handle. Theobroma cacao (the cocoa bean) works well with a variety of foods and drinks because it has so many different chemical compounds that make up its flavor notes. That being said, we looked for a chameleon in our dessert repertoire. What works best is a dessert that does not overpower the chocolate in Exit 13, but adds a supporting flavor to it. We had two winners. Our Creme Brulee fudge, made with white chocolate, vanilla powder and burnt sugar, adds both a milkiness and a smoky sweet bitterness to the Exit 13. Another option that I like is our Growler cupcake because the dark chocolate takes a backseat to the stout in the cake and the icing is a lip-smacking, browned butter frosting that is almost savory.

Birchrun Hillâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Birchrun Blue If your sweetie likes salty sweets (think chocolate pretzel or fleur de sel caramels) this is one sure to please. The salty, bright mineralistic character of Birchrun Blue provides a lively foil to the palate, coating classic milk chocolate flavors of the latest in the Exit series. Latent bitter orange hop flavors also meld nicely with candied lemon in the blue.

february/march 2011

Bar & Restaurant Review 44

A Victorious Meal… Dining at the Victory Brewpub in Downingtown, PA. By Neil Harner For most, when the name Victory is thrown around in the beer scene, people think of the award-winning craft brews like the Prima Pils or the Hop Devil. Sure, these beers are fantastic and widely available throughout the scene, but wouldn’t you love the opportunity to pair them with the delicious cuisine designed for these beers? This is exactly what the Victory Brewpub, located on the premises of the brewery offers! When you first arrive, you’ll think you are at nothing other than an everyday brewery located within an industrial complex. But, once you enter, your impression will be completely transformed as the decked-out space is reminiscent of a modern but casual, city-dining experience. Regardless of if you’re sitting at the bar or at a table, you’ll obviously have the ability to sample most of Victory’s normal in season offerings. And, although these beers are as fresh as you can get them, the real selection is what Victory offers on hand pump or limited through the brewpub only. On this occasion, I sampled the Pursuit Pale Ale; a deliciously delicate and citrusy pale ale brewed with Simcoe and Citra hops. And then, I couldn’t resist trying their homemade root beer, which brought out the inner child in me. At the brewpub, the restaurant breaks down their food offerings into two, totally unique menus. This encompasses their “Victory Standards” which includes a selection of their burgers, barbeque, and other bar foods. There is also the “Victory Selections” which is a chef ’s selection that

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rotates throughout the year based on the seasonality of food. This includes their gourmet pizzas, entrees, and more delicate starters. One of these starters I couldn’t resist the opportunity to try was the “Not Your Mama’s Waffle.” This was a small portion of lamb on top of a waffle, served with a mustard ice cream and apple cider syrup. Although, mustard ice cream may not seem the most appetizing, it was the perfect condiment to lamb and waffle. For my meal, I decided to pair up my Victory Root Beer with their Root Beer Rib Sticks, which was the best pairing since the perfectly smokey St. Louis cut ribs were doused in a homemade BBQ made from the root beer. Alongside of it was a Sweet Potato Salad which was a precise blend between the picnic potato salad I grew up with and a buttery, roasted sweet potato with cinnamon. Finally, no meal would be complete without sampling some of Victory’s locally made beer ice creams. On this particular occasion, the brewpub was offering a chocolate chip ice cream made with Baltic Thunder and an over-thetop infusion of Hop Devil and cinnamon candy ice cream. All in all, the meal was exceptional. And, being able to leave with a fresh growler of Victory Storm King made the trip to Downingtown worthwhile. Also, don’t forget to check out the gift shop where you can buy everything from Victory shirts to tap handles. The Victory Brewpub & Restaurant is located at 420 Acorn Lane, Downingtown, PA 19335.

SO WE DON’T SERVE

MILLER LITE. IS THAT REALLY SUCH A NOW FEATURING Prism Death March Hopless Porter on tap, look for other exciting new styles coming soon!!!

BAD THING? WE DON’T THINK SO.

CRAFT BEER. GREAT FOOD. LIVE MUSIC. 20 Taps • 60+ Bottles • Firkin Nights Hulmeville Inn: 4 Trenton Rd | Hulmeville, PA

215-750-6893 | hulmevilleinn.com

TRIUMPH BREWING COMPANY 117 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA PA

february/march 2011

Bar & Restaurant Review 46

12 Steps Down Not exactly Bill Wilson’s type of bar. By Mat Falco What is the best way to come up with an ethically questionable bar name? For 12 Steps Down, it was to take over a bar and put out a suggestion box to let the customers submit their favorite names. That’s how the bar came to get its “One Step at a Time” name. It was either that or the “Lost Lounge” and I’m pretty sure no one would argue their decision. Located in the heart of the Italian Market, 12 Steps Down has been a local hangout for around 50 years, though only about 7 under the 12 Steps name. Hidden in the basement on the corner of 9th and Christian, 12 Steps isn’t your typical neighborhood bar. And though it might be dubbed a dive bar, it is good beer and food in a laid back setting. Well, smoky setting, as it is one of the few bars left in the city that allows you to smoke indoors. Smoking might not be for everyone, but it really adds to the character of the place and it isn’t overpowering. As for the environment of 12 Steps, this is definitely a bar filled with personality, as you never know what you’ll walk into at any given time. There always seems to be something interesting going on and the bar is filled with customers that like to have a good time. From the pool table and dart board to the big screen projector in the back for games and ashtrays scattered throughout, there is something for everyone down here. Also the beer program is really impressive for a dive

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bar. The tap list consists of 10 beers ranging from local favorites to solid offerings from Ballast Point and Great Lakes. The taps are constantly on rotation as well, so you can expect something different and they always have a featured beer of the week at a discounted rate. They also have an impressive line-up of around 80 bottles, ranging from Belgian favorites Saison Dupont and Delirium Tremens to seasonal and specialty offerings from many of the top breweries. You can always find some classics as well: La Fin du Monde and 750ml bottles of Chimay Grand Reserve. With a chalkboard of daily menus displaying offerings such as braised short rib sandwiches, the food menu is no slouch either. The regular menu might not be filled with anything crazy, but it’s all about classic dishes done right, like the Italian Market classic- roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone and amazing hand cut fries served with a homemade smoky ketchup and vinegar aioli. Plus, the menu is presented awesomely, written on brown lunch bags. This bar really captures the perfect feel for a dive and is definitely one of the most fun bars in the city. Whether you’re a fan of karaoke and Quizzo, want to watch the game on the big screen while drinking a good beer, or just want to be able to have a smoke while being entertained by the other customers around you, this really is a bar for everyone. Well, maybe not everyone, because as the poster inside says: “Stay out, 12 Stepper! Your lies are not welcome here.” 12 Steps Down is located at 831 Christian St., Philadelphia, PA 19147.

Cheers 150 Years!

30 Beers on Draft including all your favorite local micros.

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Over 1500 Different Kinds of Beer Mix-and-Match Bottles New Imports just in from Belgium!

theBEER STORE Gourmet Beer Collection

488 2nd Street Pike • Southampton, PA 18966

Call today: (215) 355-7373 february/march 2011

The Tasting Room How Philly Beer Scene Reviews Beer Every issue Mat, Neil & Melissa, from Philly Beer Scene, get together with a notable guest and a member of the scene for a small, private, tasting session called the “The Tasting Room.” Approximately a dozen beers are chosen that are new, seasonal or just interesting. Rather than presenting an overly-detailed single perspective review, “The Tasting Room” serves to be a brief written account of key points made between the tasters. Each taster designates a rating from zero to five stars, justifying it in their own way. The scores are then averaged and always rounded to the nearest half star for a final rating.

Star Gazing Stay Away From This Beer A Drinkable Beer But Not Worth Seeking Out

A Pretty Decent Beer Worth Drinking Anytime If You See This Beer, Order It You Better Go Out And Find This Beer Now

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Our notable guest Our special guest is head chef of Fork, Terence Feury. Terence is a highly regarded chef and won this past year’s “Best Chef of Philly.” Terence is also an avid homebrewer and beer lover and collaborated on a rosemary saison with Victory and his brother Patrick, Chef of Nectar, called “Fists of Feury.” This brew can be found exclusively at both Fork and Nectar in Berwyn, PA.

From The Scene

An Average Beer

In honor of our special guest, this Tasting Room was held at Fork in Old City, Philadelphia. For almost two decades now, Fork has been one of the premier restaurants in the city, winning an array of accolades including numerous “Best of Philly” awards. They also offer a small, but well crafted beer list including their house brew, Victory Fists of Feury.

february/march 2011

Megan Cloonan moved from Lancaster, PA to Philadelphia mainly for the beer scene. When not working in the restaurant business, she spends most of her time searching out great bars in the area with her fiance.

Weyerbacher Riserva Founders Double Trouble This American Wild Ale is fermented with Brettano-

myces yeast and aged with red-raspberry puree in

Hops have got you coming and going. Pungent

Oak barrels for over 1 year, then bottle condi-

aromatics up front paired with a malt balanced

tioned in champagne bottles. ABV: 11.4%

backbone and a smooth bitter finish. ABV: 9.4%

Ter

Wine-like nose, very sour. Raspberry, over the top fresh fruit flavor.

Meg 4.5 Very sour raspberry nose, the tart really hits you in the mouth. This is an extreme sour beer for sour lovers.

Ter

Super citrus hop nose, toasty light color. I would suck down 3 and be wasted!

Meg

Nose is incredibly floral & hoppy, taste is over-the-top bitter and hoppy, for true hope heads only!

Surprisingly smooth. Extremely sessionable. This is a dangerous beer.

Mat

Total smack in the mouth with sourness. I love it!

Mat

Neil

I’ve had Riserva in the past...it was good. This is awesome..incredible sour.

Neil 2.5 normal style.

Sour nose, rosy color, extreme sour. I had this on

Mel 4.5 Thanksgiving & it was great.

Hof ten Dormaal Blond

Super hoppy. But finishes clean, solid but not my

Mel

Too hoppy, but doesn’t remind me of a double IPA.

Terrapin Wake ‘N’ Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout

From Belgian brewery Hof ten Dormaal, their Farmhouse Blond Ale is a full-bodied brew that

Black as night, this coffee stout is thick, rich and

is hugely-effervescent and yeasty, pouring a

full of real coffee flavor. Brewed with the Terrapin

hazy-golden color topped off with a pillowy white

Wake-n-Bake coffee blend created by Terrapin &

head. ABV: 8.0%

Jittery Joe’s Coffee. ABV: 8.6%

Ter 3.5 Very effervescent, skunky smell, but great flavor, grassy, lemony.

Ter

Rich coffee. Choco-chewy light spice, delicious.

Meg

Thick & dark beer, tastes like the perfect union of coffee and beer, delicious stout.

Meg

Skunky nose, typical Belgian blonde taste, very carbonated. Nice body, excellent mouthfeel, nice floral/yeast taste.

Mat

Not the best aroma but flavor is deep and complex. And, mouthfeel and carbonation are perfect.

Mat

Coffee & chocolate work together amazingly. This should replace coffee at breakfast.

Neil

“Ode de Heiny”- really offensive nose- deceivingly fantastic flavor.

Neil

Mel

The nose is deceiving- but it has some great, sweet flavor, good body.

Pepper on the nose- really heavy boay. Chocolate finish.

Mel 4.5 experimenting on some cocktails with this beer!

Coffee nose- espresso flavor. I might be

Breckenridge Pandora’s Bock

Dogfish Head My Antonia

This bock features a unique caramel nut malty

A collaboration beer between Sam Calagione and

complexity with a hint of hoppy goodness, pouring

Leonardo DiVencenzo at Birra del Borgo, brewed

a rich mahogany color and releasing a wealth of

with pilsner malt and continually-hopped Noble

flavor. ABV: 7.5%

and West Coast hops. ABV: 7.5%

Ter

3.5

Malty, but not crazy. Light and doesn’t taste like a 7% beer.

Ter

3.5

Meg

Light body & tastes like toasty nuts, slightly fruity, do not taste the 7%, very watery for a bock.

Meg

Light crisp, slightly hoppy & floral, tastes like a light version of 60IPA, very smooth & very enjoyable.

No bock characteristics, surprisingly sessionable & light bodied. Sweetness and maltiness almost absent.

Mat

Really well done. Extremely smooth throughout. Great hop and malt balance.

Beautiful color. Sweet...really mild and sweet. ABV is deceiving, doesn’t seem like a bock though.

Neil

A lot of malt in the nose. Extremely smooth, solid throughout. Not as dramatic as other releases.

Mel

Hoppy- bitter upfront, smooths out at the end.

Mat 3.5 Neil

Really light, I don’t taste the 7% at all, barley tastes

Mel 3.5 like beer...

Nice and hoppy, malty for a pils. Smooth.

february/march 2011

Sixpoint Sehr Crisp Pilsner

Widmer Drop Top Amber Ale

One of the initial offerings from Booklyn’s Sixpoint

A creamy, flavorful Amber that’s smooth and easy to

Brewing Co.’s new series “Sixpoint Crisp Lagers,”

drink. Drop Top is fermented by an American Ale

this brew is described as “bold and crisp with

yeast to produce beer with a clean flavor and fruity

honey malt and peppery hop tones.”ABV: 5.5%

aroma. ABV: 5.0%

Ter

Slightly bitter. Straightforward.

Meg

Nice carbonation, bready, very light finish, slightly spicy. Good session beer.

Meg 2.5 Tropical fruit nose, drinks more like a summer beer.

Very clean, mild bitterness in background. Great session beer.

Mat 2.5 Extremely light bodied with stringent tropical fruit

Mat 3.5

Ter

Strange fruitiness, light and kind of refreshing. Very sour aftertaste & light body. sourness.

Neil 3.5 Really mild & crisp with traditional notes.

Neil

Really fruity and super light in the body.

Mel 3.5 Citrus nose, fresh & easy to drink. Not bitter, which I like.

Mel

Not much nose, very light, surprisingly fruity with floral flavors.

Anchor Steam Humming Ale

Sixpoint Righteous Rye

Brewed for Anchor’s founding 113 years prior,

This beer uses a proportion of rye in the mash which

Humming is brewed with Nelson Sauvin, a very

lends an unmistakable sharp and distinct flavor.

rare and unusual hop variety. This pale ale is a

Seasoned with pungent American hops, this beer is

blend of wonderful flavors and aromas. ABV: 5.9%

our designated “beer drinkers” beer. ABV: 6.5%

Ter

3.5

Meg

Herbacious, crisp pale ale. Thumbs up. Nice fruit nose, smells interesting, tastes a little malty, fresh, similar to pale ale.

Ter

Good hop and heavy rye. Kind of bitter.

Meg

Rye nose & slightly malty, medium body & extremely bitter finish, not something I would drink again. Definite rye flavors & nice bitterness from hops. Lack of carbonation takes away from a great beer.

Mat 3.5 One of the better offerings from the brewery.

Mat 2.5

Neil 3.5 Nice aroma and a touch of alcohol. Smooth hops.

Neil

Very dry & roasty. The rye comes through greatly.

Mel 2.5 A little bitterness, not a big fan. Doesn’t “wow” me.

Mel

Too bitter for me. Light in the beginning, but the bitterness takes over.

Stillwater Existent

Redhook Eisbock 28 Eisbock 28 is an ice processed winter warmer, aged

Stillwater describes their American Farmhouse Ale

for months at temperatures well below freezing and

as, “Deep & dark though deceptively dry, braced by

is a deep gold color and has a smooth and malty

a firm yet smooth bitterness and accented with an

flavor with bittersweet complexities. ABV: 11.0%

earthy hop and mild roast aroma.” ABV: 7.4% Ter

Dark! Coffee, roasty, toasty malt. Light bodied and refreshing.

Meg 3.5 Smells very roasty & matly, tastes very light, almost like a stout taste with a saison body.

Mat

3.5

Very unique. The dark roastiness is like no other saison/farmhouse I’ve had.

Neil 3.5 A black saison, body of a light saison but with rich roastiness.

Mel

phillybeerscene.com

Like a light stout- roasty, a good sweetness, low carbonation, tasty.

february/march 2011

Ter

Sweet, malty extract.

Meg

Very crisp, caramel & raisin nose, tastes incredibly sweet, vanilla, caramel, slight fruit flavors.

Mat

All caramel and too one dimensional.

Neil 3.5 Mel

Sweet, matly nose- lot of caramel- nice alcohol warmth. Sweet nose, caramel start with that strong alcohol finish. As I keep sipping, I think it’s too sweet.

Weird beer #11

The Final Picks After some long discussion and debate over the twelve craft beers that were sampled, our panel is ready to reveal each of their favorite

‘dark force’

picks for February/March.

Terence’s Final Pick: Founders Double Trouble. An enduring classic. I like the style, would love to drink a couple and see what happens.

Megan’s Final Pick: Weyerbacher Riserva. I am a huge sour beer lover and this one fulfilled my need for extreme sourness and enjoyment!

Mat’s Final Pick: Weyerbacher Riserva. I just love sour beers and this is the extreme sourness I always hope for.

Neil’s Final Pick: Dogfish Head My Antonia. This is solid; fundamentally and seemingly non-extreme to the Dogfish norm blew my mind.

Melissa’s Final Pick: Hof ten Dormaal Blond. Surprised me with its great flavor! They need to work on the nose, but if you can get past that, this is a great spring beer.

Each issue brings you a strange, over-the-top beer. Mamma Mia! Pizza Beer (Issue 10) had tomatoes, oregano, garlic and other pizza flavorings. Beer Geek Brunch Weasel (Issue 1) was made using a coffee that is found in the excrement of civets. And, Kelpie (Issue 6) was brewed using seaweed. These are just a few examples of some of the more interesting offerings out there in the beer world. But, this time around we’re not bringing you a beer filled with unique, unimaginable ingredients. Instead, we’re bringing you a beer that’s never been done before. HaandBryggeriet’s ‘dark force’ is a weird beer in the way that it’s the only one of its kind (at least known of or in mass production). By style, ‘dark force’ is an Imperial Double Wheat Stout. The brewers had never heard of a stout made as a wheat beer, so they set out to make this unique brew. Just think, stout brewed with a wheat yeast and a whole lot of wheat malts and dark roasted malts. When brewing this beer, they had to use so many grains that they began to struggle with the runoffs of the mash tun, as it was so over packed with grain that they couldn’t possibly have added another pound. In the end, due to the yeast, you don’t have a typical full-bodied stout. Instead, you have a unique interpretation with dominant fruit characteristics and a surprisingly low malt character. At 9% alcohol though, it ends up being quite easy to drink.

february/march 2011