NEW
WINTER 2019
GLASS ACT THE GOOD LIFE
how t o…
Get World Cup ready Pick wines that age well
DRINK THESE TRENDS: Sherry cocktails, blue drinks
&
11
fabulous boozy recipes for winter
the ‘new’ Old Fashioned
FREE 00619 6
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480919
PLUS! THE SOMMELIER’S HOT LIST J'SOMETHING’S DESERT ISLAND DRINK Cover_COR 2 option.indd 1
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SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST AWARDED GIN RECENTLY VOTED BEST SOUTH AFRICAN GIN, SUNDAY TIMES LIFESTYLE GIN AWARDS Ginologist is the scientifically distilled, premium, award-winning South African gin and one of the leaders in the global gin revolution. Ginologist Citrus, Floral and Spice gins are the most awarded gins in their lifetime and have won accolades and converts worldwide. Try one for yourself.
BECAUSE MAKING GIN IS NOT AN ART
IT’S A SCIENCE
10 o
HELLO!
WINTER 2019
IN THIS ISSUE 04 TIPPLE TALK White-walking whisky, butterfly pea flower gin, sage wine advice and more.
09 SOME LIKE IT HOT Cocktail hour is heating up as we shake and stir our way through some steamy drinks.
Alcohol is not for sale to persons under the age of 18. Pick n Pay encourages responsible drinking.
14 MY SHERRY AMORE The classic coldweather sipper is making waves in bars as the new ‘it’ ingredient.
16 DINNER, UNCORKED Slow and steady wins the race when making
THE GLASS ACT TEAM CONTENT DIRECTOR Justine Drake EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sibongile Mafu EDITOR Annette Klinger FOOD EDITOR Liezl Vermeulen DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Chad January GROUP ART DIRECTOR Liezel le Roux
boozy stews and soups this winter.
21 THE VIEWING PARTY The last season of Game of Thrones had Sibongile Mafu and her squad in high spirits.
Welcome to the launch issue of Glass Act! Trying to figure out what your next favourite cocktail will be? On p4 we go directly to the source – the barman – to find out what he’s drinking. And, if you thought sherry was a drink for that old auntie you hardly visit – think again! On p14 Jim Hislop dips into the drink, with surprising results. The Rugby World Cup is around the corner and on p7 you can add to the excitement by trying some local brewskies to pair with your love for the green and gold. We don’t want you drinking on an empty stomach, so on p16 you’ll find recipes that will keep you smiling – paired with some great wines, of course! On p21, I bid farewell to my favourite show, Game of Thrones. I said goodbye with good friends and good wine. Cersei would approve. Tell your friends that Glass Act is here, and we’re inviting you for drinks! – Sibongile Mafu, Editor-in-Chief
Visit Youtube.com/PicknPayTube to enjoy Glass Act, Pick n Pay’s series of informative wine tutorials, hosted by Sibongile!
22 POURING HIS HEART OUT Sommelier Joseph Dafana shares his journey from waiter to wine maker and philanthropist.
26 DESERT ISLAND DRINK Stranded in the middle of nowhere, J’Something knows exactly what he'll be sipping.
ART DIRECTOR Jill Petersen MANAGING EDITOR Meaghan Christians CHIEF COPY EDITOR Melissa Ndlovu ADVERTISING Michelle Dunn & Estelle Dietrich MANAGING DIRECTOR Lani Carstens
ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Natalie Wilson PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Nina Hendricks PRODUCTION MANAGER Tessa Smith FOR PICK N PAY Michelle van Schalkwyk-Haley, Gavin Ievers & Katie Bailie
21 Printed by
A division of Novus Holdings
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TIPPLE TALK
This winter, Marshall Siavash, beverage curator at Coco Safar (cocosafar.com), will be keeping the chills at bay with brandy: “I love a good 100% pot still SA brandy and will also be pouring myself a few sidecar cocktails!”
SID ECA R Shake 1/5 cup (50ml) brandy, 5 tsp (25ml) Cointreau and 4 tsp (20ml) fresh lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Strain and garnish with orange peel and mint leaves just before serving. 4 | Glass Act – Winter 2019
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BERG TU DE
S RN
WHAT THE BARMAN’S DRINKING…
ROO
YO U R G U I D E T O G R E AT D R I N K I N G
70
Can you believe that Roodeberg – SA’s legendary red wine blend – has been around since 1949? To commemorate the 70th birthday or everyone’s favourite Cape red, the 2017 vintage is being sold with a special anniversary label – sure to become a collectors’ item. Pour yourself a glass and treat your tongue to its soft, plum, chocolate and tobacco flavours. Available at R95.
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FIVE
THINGS TO DO THIS WINTER
1
ASK CATHY
FRANSCHHOEK UNCORKED 14-15 September
Sip your way through some of the country’s best new-release bubblies and wines, as you travel between the beautiful valley's winefarms. Tickets available at Webtickets.co.za or any PnP nationwide
PINOTAGE ON TAP 27 July, 24 August & 28 September
2
Diemersfontein keeps wine lovers’ glasses filled with their coffeechocolate Pinotage – 27th July, Salt Rock; 24th August, Centurion; and 28th September at the estate itself. Diemersfontein.co.za
3
FREE STATE WINE SHOW 2-3 August
More than 200 of SA’s best wines are up for the sampling, so come thirsty! Freestatewineshow.co.za
Wanderers Club | 5 & 6 October
STELLENBOSCH WINE FESTIVAL JOBURG 5-6 October
4
Presented by Pick n Pay, the best of the Stellies winelands is coming to the City of Gold at cellar-door prices. Cheers! Tickets available at Webtickets.co.za or any PnP nationwide
5
MERCURY WINE WEEK 29-31 August This year, SA’s oldest wine show is 41 years old. Help toast the proud Durban tradition by raising a glass of any of the 80 participating suppliers. Mercurywineweek.co.za
I love wintry stews and roasts, but have never been much of a red wine drinker. Is it okay to serve white wine with a meaty lunch and, if so, what would you recommend? Of course it’s okay to drink white wine with red meat – it’s okay to drink whatever you enjoy with whatever you feel like! It might be better to try a more full-bodied white wine rather than a very fresh Sauvignon Blanc. Try a lightly wooded Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay or a deliciously complex blend which should have enough body to stand up to robust food. I’ve just become and aunt and would love to buy my new nephew a commemorative bottle of wine that he can open on his 18th birthday. Which wines age well? Congrats! Reds and fortified wines like ports or sherries are the best bet because they contain either tannin or sugar and alcohol, all of which help to preserve wine. Stellar Cape reds include Kanonkop Paul Sauer or Meerlust Rubicon, while Allesverloren and KWV make fantastic fortified wines. It needs to be kept somewhere where the temperature stays the same so not the kitchen! I’d suggest the coolest room in the house. Find a cupboard there and lie it down at the back. Just don’t forget to drink it when he’s 18!
TREND ALERT! 2019 is all about drinking the blues. In particular, any tipple made with the brightly beautiful butterfly pea flower. Locally, Six Dogs Distillery has used it to infuse their Blue Gin (R489.99), which also has floral hints of rose pelargonium. The best part? The blue gin turns pink when you add tonic (or anything acidic) to it! How's that for a party trick!
DID YOU KNOW? In Southeast Asia, butterfly pea flower tea has been sipped for centuries.
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Join our
SM
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FOR FREE
r to 36 775
Pick n Pay Wine Club Sy
o u r S m art S h o
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THE CLUB J JOIN
We know you love wine, so join the PnP Wine Club! It’s free and members earn 3x Smart Shopper points on all wine, get 20% off 10 fabulous wines every month, plus access to exclusive events and competitions by simply swiping their Smart Shopper card at the till. To join, send a FREE SMS with your Smart Shopper card number to 36775.
NEW
Gutted that Game of Thrones has come to an end? So is editor-in-chief Sibongile Mafu (read her tribute on page 21). Johnnie Walker, in collaboration with HBO® and Game of Thrones, has released a limitededition White Walker Whisky, blended from single malts from Scotland’s icy north. It has notes of caramelised sugar, vanilla and fresh red berries – best enjoyed straight from the freezer. Grab yourself a bottle (R399.99) while it’s still cold…
JUST KEEP WHITE WALKING
FEED TO FOLLOW
Jaco Haasbroek (@winehundredbucks) is a bargain hunter of note. When he finds a great wine deal (R100 or less) he creates a beautiful illustration of the tipple: “When you find a decent wine for under R100, it’s like you’ve cracked a secret code – I have to tell someone!”
Sparkling suppers Bubbly with butter chicken? You better believe it. Proving that sparkling wine is for more than just summery soirées, new Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Satin Nectar (R155), a mediumsweet Cap Classique, balances the sweetness of honeyed almonds with the tartness of lemon and cranberry – not only making it the perfect sip for nippier weather, but a match made in heaven with spicy, rich dishes.
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SIBONGILE SAYS:
s you DECANT? Ye
READY
can!
“Ever wondered what wine decanters are all about? One of the reasons is to separate the wine from any sediment – the bits of matter that can settle in the bottom of the bottle. Pouring the wine into a decanter also lets it breathe. That wine’s been living in that bottle for a long time. It wants to stretch its legs a bit to open up its full flavours and aromas!”
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, DIAGEO & SUPPLIED; PHOTOGRAPHY: DONNA LEWIS, STYLING: CHAD JANUARY PRICES CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT AND MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.
GET WORLD CUP Springbok jerseys? Check. Best mates? Check. Now all you need to enjoy the 2019 Rugby World Cup (20 Sep to 2 Nov) are some proudly-SA craft brewskies and something delicious to snack on.
ASIAN-SPICED NUTS Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine ¼ cup (60ml) soy sauce, 2 tsp (10ml) sesame oil, 2 tsp (10ml) regular or smoked paprika, 1 tsp (5ml) chilli flakes, juice (60ml) and grated peel of 1 lemon, 2 torn nori sheets and 2 tsp (10ml) sea salt. Coat 2 cups (300g) mixed nuts and seeds (we used almonds, cashews and pumpkin seeds) with mixture. Arrange nuts in a single layer on a lined baking tray. Roast for 4-6 minutes. Cool completely before transferring to an airtight container. Store in a cool dry place. MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
DISTILLERY VISIT
Whistler Rum
WHO? Brothers Leon and Trevor Bruns, Stephan de Vos and Caretus Mzaka are the team behind this all-African rum. WHAT? The Dark Rum (R319.99) has notes of dark chocolate, toasted toffee and ground nuts. Try it with simple syrup, a dash of bitters and a slice of orange. The Spice Infused Rum (R319.99) has flavours of cinnamon, vanilla and citrus. Enjoy it with ginger beer and bitters. HOW? It’s made by fermenting molasses from KZN, brown sugar from Swaziland, filtered water and yeast, then distilling it in a pot still. It’s then pre-matured in new French and toasted American oak barrels, before being aged in old Cape whiskey and brandy barrels. WHERE? Whistler Distillery is on the R70 between Riebeeckstad and Henneman in the Free State. They’re open for distillery tours and tastings the last weekend of every month. Whistlerrum.co.za
For the lager lovers: Darling Brew Slow Beer (R20 for 330ml)
For the For the redFor the pilsner light-hearted: tempered: preferrers: The Devil's Peak Jack Black Redrock Brewing First Light Lumberjack Co. Storm Rider Golden Ale Amber Ale Pilsner (R17 for (R15 for 330ml) (R29 for 340ml) 340ml)
For the weiss guys: CBC Krystal Weiss (R29 for 440ml)
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HAPPY HOUR
Some like it hot Baby it’s cold outside, so best you liberate those amber spirits and creamy liqueurs from the drinks cabinet and stir up some surefire cures against the cold. PHOTOS: MICHAEL LE GRANGE RECIPES AND STYLING: LIEZL VERMEULEN STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS: EMMA NKUNZANA & LIZÉ BASSON
Mulled apple and rum punch. Recipe on page 12
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HAPPY HOUR
Vanilla and maple old fashioned
Rooibos hot toddy
Rum and hazelnut hot chocolate
RUM AND HAZELNUT HOT CHOCOLATE Everybody’s favourite cold-weather treat has just gotten a serious upgrade.
SPL UR GE
Sprinkle with chopped toasted hazelnuts
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Heat 4 cups (1L) full cream milk in a pot. Add 2 large slabs (150g each) chopped dark chocolate, stirring until chocolate melts completely. Remove from heat and add 4 tots (100ml) dark rum and 2-3 tots (5075ml) hazelnut liqueur.
Divide hot chocolate between 4 glasses. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream and chocolate shavings. SERVES 4
TIPPLE TIP For simple syrup, heat equal parts water and sugar together. Heat while stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove and use for cocktails.
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VANILLA AND MAPLE OLD FASHIONED A little twist on the trending classic. Don’t have bourbon on hand? Try another whiskey or brandy instead. Place 1 tsp (5ml) of each vanilla brown sugar (see tipple tip right) and lemon juice, a few shakes bitters to taste and ½ Tbsp (7ml) real maple syrup (optional) in a tumbler. Add 2-3 tots (50-75ml) Bourbon
whiskey and mix well to dissolve sugar. Add ice, a splash of water to taste and finish with a piece of orange rind. SERVES 1
TIPPLE TIP Make vanilla sugar by combining the seeds of 1 vanilla pod with 1 cup brown sugar. Alternatively, use brown sugar as per recipe and add a drop of vanilla essence to your cocktail.
ROOIBOS HOT TODDY You don’t have to be under the weather to enjoy this cold-weather cure-all. Place 4 bags rooibos tea and 4 cups (1L) hot water in a pot and bring to the boil. Simmer for 3 minutes and remove tea bags. Add ½ cup (125ml) honey, 5 lemon slices, 1 cinnamon quill and 1 star anise. Simmer for a further 8-10 minutes. Remove
from heat. Place 2 tots (50ml) whiskey in 4 glasses each. Divide rooibos infusion between glasses and add a lemon slice to each. Serve steaming hot. SERVES 4
IRISH SLAMMER This pub staple gets its name from dropping a shot glass of Irish liqueur into a pint of stout and whiskey. Our version makes less of a splash! Pour 1 can (500ml) Guinness beer and
1-2 tots (25-50ml) Irish whiskey in a glass. Pour 2 tots (50ml) Irish cream liqueur over beer and whiskey mixture just before serving. Drink immediately, as the cocktail separates quickly after combining. SERVES 1
TIPPLE TIP Put a South African spin on it and use Amarula instead of Baileys.
Irish slammer
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HAPPY HOUR
MULLED APPLE AND RUM PUNCH Served piping hot, this spiced sipper will give you rosy cheeks in no time. For not-sofreezing days, serve it chilled over ice. Combine 4 cups (1L) clear apple juice, 3 Tbsp (45ml) brown sugar or honey, 3 cinnamon quills, 5 bruised cardamom pods and 4 slices fresh ginger in a pot.
Heat and simmer for 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and add ½ cup (125ml) white rum. Serve warm or chill before serving. SERVES 4
SHERRY CITRUS SANGRIA Sherry transforms this summertime drink into a winter treat. Add some citrus and it’s a real showstopper. Combine 1 bottle (750ml) Sauvignon
Blanc and ½ cup (125ml) dry sherry. Add ¼- 1/³ cup (6080ml) simple syrup (see page 18), if you prefer a sweeter drink. Stir in 4 tots (100ml) orange liqueur and place in a jug with 1 sliced grapefruit, 3 of each sliced oranges and soft peel citrus and a handful of mint. Infuse for 2 hours or overnight for best results. Serve over ice. SERVES 4-6
Sherry citrus sangria
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FEAT.
CASSPER NYOVEST & THANDO THABETHE
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2019/06/20 18:59
MY SHERRY AMORE I was always a little wary of drinking sherry in the past. Perhaps it’s because it conjured up images of blue-rinse grannies on package tours to sewing-machine museums, or the sickly-sweet liquid that you glug down when first experimenting with booze. In fact, I have to admit that before writing this article I wasn’t much of a sherry drinker. But I had to do some ‘market research’ for you and took one for the team. I’ve got to say, I’m a convert! There’s much more to this fortified wine than I thought. Though it’s traditionally known as a pre or after-dinner drink, it can be used in cooking, enjoyed on its own as a chilled summer refresher or at room temperature as a fireside warmer, or, as has recently been the case, in trendy bars as the main ingredient in some super-cool cocktails (see box opposite).
Sherry originally comes from Spain, but because we have a similar climate and terrain (terroir) in South Africa – especially in Paarl with its wet, frost-free winters and sweltering, dry summers – we produce some delightful local versions on our very own doorstep, though we can’t market them
as sherries. Only the ones made in Spain’s Cádiz Province’s ‘sherry triangle’, between Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María, may officially use the name. One of Paarl’s oldest ‘sherry-style wine’ producers is Monis, who have been
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fortifying the delicious stuff since 1906, when they were headed by the industrious Italian Roberto Monis, who did a lot to establish the reputation of fortified wines in South Africa. Other local producers of sherry-style wines include KWV in Paarl and Orange River Cellars in Upington.
HOW’S IT MADE? Sherry is made by fortifying, i.e. adding a distilled spirit to, a ‘neutral-flavoured’ white wine. Because Chenin Blanc is such a common grape variety in SA, it’s often used for our sherry-style wines, but so are Colombar, Sémillon and Palomino. The grapes are gently pressed once to extract the must (juice, skins, seeds, and stems), which is then used in the making of fino. This process is called primera yema. A second pressing is called segunda yema, and the must from this process is used for oloroso. The resulting must from each process is fermented in stainless-
steel tanks. The wine from the fermented must is then fortified by adding distilled wine. This wine is stored in oak casks, which are filled up to five-sixths of their capacity. The remaining space is left for the flor yeast, which gives the sherry much of its flavour, to naturally grow above the wine (it needs the oxygen to grow). Next follows a rather complicated process called solera, which basically results in wines of different vintages being blended together to give a uniform taste and quality. Finally the sherry can be sweetened (in which case it’s called ‘cream’)
ILLUSTRATION: FRAN LABUSCHAGNE PHOTOS: SILO PRICES CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT AND MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. THIS ARTICLE WAS REPURPOSED FROM FRESH LIVING MAGAZINE
Sherry has made a big comeback, shedding its old tannie image in favour of something far trendier. Jim Hislop sipped his way through his fair share of the fortified tipple and is happy to report that he, too, is now a convert.
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CELLAR SPOTLIGHT
or left dry, giving a range of different flavours, tastes and colours from pale lemon to rich, dark brown.
STORING & SERVING
THIS ARTICLE WAS REPURPOSED FROM FRESH LIVING MAGAZINE
Sherry – and sherry-style wines – should be stored upright in a cool, dark place and, once opened, in the fridge. And don’t keep it too long – finish the bottle within the month, otherwise it will go stale. Pale, dry sherries and sherry-style wines are at their best served chilled, whereas medium and full-cream versions go down a treat both chilled, or at room temperature. The fortified wine is full of wonderful, complex flavours, so serving it in a white wine glass will give it room to show off its charms as opposed to the traditional small sherry glasses or schooners. But remember, it does have higher alcohol than normal wine so don’t go filling that glass to the brim! A serving of around 75ml is perfect.
ALL SHOOK UP! Sherry’s not just for straight sipping, anymore. Just ask these bars, who’ve made it the star of cocktail hour.
GREAT FOR COOKING
TAPAS AND SHERRY
Sherry adds a delicious flavour to everything from roasts to soups and sauces, and can be enjoyed with a variety of foods, especially of the cocktail party variety, like spicy prawns, parmesan shavings, biltong and nuts. And sherry trifle is a good example of how this fortified wine can do wonders for puds. When I was putting this article together, I tried an experiment at home. While I was cooking kassler chops, I splashed them with a dash of full-cream sherry-style wine once they’d become crispy. To go with them, I threw some chopped tomatoes and fresh coriander together with sliced baby marrows and another healthy splash of the full cream fortified tipple. The end result was delicious. The wine added a lovely nutty, sweet flavour to the chops and veggies. A great end to a happy experiment…
Not surprisingly, sherry is the perfect pairing partner with Spanish tapas. Garlic-marinated olives go well with a glass of chilled sherry, and this pairing is a popular dish in many Spanish tapas bars. Meatballs in tomato sauce, another tapas classic, pairs well with strong cheese, which loves sherry. Then there are Spanish omelettes – OK, I know that drinking sherry for breakfast might seem a bit much, but when in Rome (or Spain in this case)... Braaied mini ribs or costillas,, as they’re called in Spain, have a marinade made with sherry, tomato purée, Tabasco, sugar and salt. The ribs need to be braaied until slightly charred. Try this Spanish-style braai moment for a bit of cross-cultural ‘pollination’. Are you liking sherry yet? I think it’s growing on me, a bit like flor yeast...
Gin and sherry? You betcha, says Tiger’s Milk (Tigersmilk.co.za), who pours their ‘Gin up my Cobbler’ – a combo of gin, Monis full-cream, grapefruit and honey – to thirsty folk at their bars in Joburg, Pretoria and Cape Town. Over at 14 on Chartwell (14 Chartwell Dr, Umhlanga; tel: 031 561 1017), barflies love the Bulleit Bobbler,
a cocktail of Monis medium cream, Bulleit bourbon, raspberry syrup and a dash of port, for good measure Capetonians should duck into The Twankey Bar (Taj Cape Town, Corner of Wale and Adderley Street; tel: 021 819 2040), to sip on The Wale’s Bones, a warming combination of medium cream, tequila, and Aperol over loads of ice.
SIP THESE STYLES PALE DRY Light in colour, it’s crisp and refreshingly dry with subtle citrussy and nutty (mainly almond) flavours. Serve chilled and enjoy on its own or as a pre-dinner sipper, with a snack platter of biltong, nuts, Parma ham and strong cheeses, or with a dinner of spicy prawns or fresh seafood. Try: Monis Pale Dry (R115)
MEDIUM CREAM* Offering the perfect middle ground between honey sweetness and crisp dryness, medium sherries and sherrystyle wines have a golden colour, fruity, spicy flavour, and creamier mouthfeel than pale dry. Serve chilled or at room temperature alongside rich, flavourful foods like pâtés, creamy mushroom soup, or four-cheese pizza. Try: KWV Medium Cream (R110)*
FULL CREAM
TOP PICK
Dashingly dark, with honey-nut flavours, full cream sherry and sherrystyle wine pairs well with crackers, mature cheddar and cashew nuts, and is robust enough for spicy Asian dishes. It also loves desserts, so do serve those brownies with a glass or two of this. Try: Orange River Cellars Full Cream (R80)
*Available at selected PnP stores only
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DINNER, UNCORKED This winter, make that full-bodied red or fortified tipple pull a double shift in your party guests’ glasses and on their plates. PHOTOS: DONNA LEWIS RECIPES AND STYLING: CHAD JANUARY STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: KRISTEN SCHEEPERS
Boeuf bourgignon. Recipe on page 18
PAIR WITH SAVE Boschendal Lanoy, R75 SPLURGE Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block, R225
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WINE AND DINE
FRENCH ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE TOASTIES The secret to this soup’s success? Cook the onions on a low, slow heat until they’re deliciously sweet.
PAIR WITH SAVE Darling Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, R45 SPLURGE Warwick The First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon, R100
2 Tbsp (30ml) butter 2 Tbsp (30ml) olive oil Handful fresh sage leaves 4 cloves garlic, crushed 4 red onions, sliced 3 white onions, sliced 4 leeks, trimmed and sliced Salt and milled pepper 2 Tbsp (30ml) cake flour ½ cup (125ml) Monis Medium Cream 8 cups (2L) vegetable stock 8 slices sourdough bread 2 cups (250g) grated cheddar cheese 2 Tbsp (30ml) chopped sage
Add onion and leeks and season. Cover (leaving the lid slightly ajar) and cook slowly for about 40-50 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir through flour to coat onions and increase heat slightly. Add sherry and cook for 2 minutes. Add stock and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Preheat oven to 200°C. Arrange sourdough slices in a single layer on a greased baking tray and top with cheese. Grill for about 3-5 minutes or until cheese melts. Garnish soup with sage and season. Ladle soup into bowls and serve with cheese toasties.
PHOTOS: XXXXXXXXXXXX
SERVES 4-6 Heat butter and oil in a large pot and fry sage and garlic over a low heat for a minute.
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WINE AND DINE
PAIR WITH
Remove pears from liquid and pat dry. Dust with cocoa and nestle pears upright into batter (cover the stems with foil). Bake for 50-55 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool completely in tin. Garnish with edible flowers, if using. Serve thick slices drizzled with reduced poaching liquid.
BOEUF BOURGIGNON Red wine and beef are a match made in winter heaven. We used beef neck, but stewing beef works just as well.
BOOZY PEAR AND CHOCOLATE LOAF Reduce the pears’ poaching liquid until syrupy and drizzle over the loaf to make this dessert doubly decadent. Poached pears: 1 bottle (750ml) Drostdy-Hof Adelpracht 1 cup (200g) castor sugar 2 sticks cinnamon 5 star anise 3 whole pears, peeled (keeping stem intact) Cake: 2 cups (300g) flour
¾ cup (150g) brown sugar 1/ cup (40g) cocoa ³ powder + extra for dusting 1 tsp (5ml) baking powder ½ tsp (3ml) bicarbonate of soda Pinch salt 1 egg, whisked 1½ cups (375ml) buttermilk ¼ cup (60g) melted butter, cooled 1 slab (100g) dark chocolate, chopped (optional) A handful edible flowers, for serving (optional) MAKES 1 LOAF
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Preheat oven to 170°C. Combine wine, castor sugar, cinnamon and star anise in a medium pot. Add pears (making sure they covered in poaching liquid) and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5-7 minutes and cool. Combine flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, bicarb and salt. Whisk together egg, buttermilk and butter. Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients and mix well. Fold through dark chocolate, if using. Pour batter into a greased and lined 20cmx10cm loaf tin.
Salt and milled pepper 1/ cup (80ml) cake ³ flour 3 Tbsp (45ml) canola oil 1.5kg beef neck (on the bone), cut into chunks 1 onion, chopped 1 carrot, peeled Gand sliced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 2 Tbsp (30ml) tomato paste Pinch sugar 2 cups (500ml) Namaqua Pinotage 1 cup (250ml) beef stock 2 bay leaves Handful fresh thyme or parsley 3 Tbsp (45ml) butter 10 baby red or white onions, peeled 2 punnets (250g each) brown or white button mushrooms
1 Tbsp (15ml) chopped parsley Mashed potatoes, roasted baby carrots, and rocket, for serving (optional) SERVES 6 Preheat oven to 150°C. Season flour and evenly coat meat with mixture. Heat oil in a large ovenproof pot and brown beef in batches. Remove and set aside. Add onion, carrots and garlic and fry for 3-5 minutes or until golden. Stir through tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, then add sugar. Add wine, stock and herbs and bring to a boil. Return beef back into pan, cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1 hour 30 minutes (check on it every 15 minutes and stir). Heat butter in a large pan and fry onions and mushrooms for about 5 minutes and set aside. Remove pot from oven and add onions. Season, sprinkle with parsley and return to the oven for another 15 minutes. Remove from oven, add mushrooms and check beef. It should fall off the bone. If not, return to the oven for a further 15-20 minutes (depending on the toughness of the meat). Serve with mashed potatoes, baby carrots and rocket.
PRICES CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT AND MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
SAVE Delush Natural Sweet Rosé, R40 SPLURGE Krone Night Nectar Demi-sec, R165
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PAIR WITH
Pouring partners
SAVE Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage, R65 SPLURGE Spier Creative Block 3 Rhone Blend, R185
Dinner party plans? Impress your guests with these stellar sips.
Pair with Boeuf bourgignon
SAVE Boschendal Lanoy, R75 SPLURGE Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block, R225
Pair with French onion soup with cheese toasties
COOK'S NOTE No oven? No problem! Finish off on the stovetop over low heat, keep it covered and stir regularly
SAVE Darling Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, R45 SPLURGE Warwick The First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon, R100
COQ AU VIN This classic French stew gets its hearty flavours from braising chicken on the bone in red wine until it's perfectly tender. ¼ cup (60ml) cake flour 1 Tbsp (15ml) chopped thyme Salt and milled pepper 10 chicken pieces (breasts or thighs) 2 Tbsp (30ml) olive oil 2 (about 100g each) thick-cut pork
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rashers, cubed 1 Tbsp (15ml) butter 2 onions, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 sticks celery, sliced 2 bay leaves 1 Tbsp (15ml) tomato paste Pinch sugar 1½ cups (375ml) Millstream Cinsault Ruby Cabernet 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock 2 punnets (250g each) white button mushrooms 2 Tbsp (30ml) chopped parsley (optional) Crusty bread, for serving
SERVES 4-6 Preheat oven to 180°C. Combine flour and thyme, and season. Evenly coat chicken with flour mixture. Heat oil in a large ovenproof pan and brown chicken in batches for about 5-7 minutes. Set aside. Fry pork in the same pan until crispy, remove and drain on kitchen paper. Add butter, onions, carrots, celery and bay leaves and fry for 5 minutes or until golden.
Stir through tomato paste and cook for a minute, then add sugar. Add wine and stock and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Return chicken to pan, cover and transfer to oven. Cook for about 20-30 minutes. Add pork rashers, mushrooms and parsley. Cook for a further 10-15 minutes or until cooked through. Season and serve with crusty bread on the side.
Pair with Boozy pear and chocolate loaf
SAVE Delush Natural Sweet Rosé, R40 SPLURGE Krone Night Nectar Demi-sec, R165
Pair with Coq au vin
SAVE Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage, R65 SPLURGE Spier Creative Block 3 Rhone Blend, R185
2019/06/21 16:02
GLASS HALF FULL and a large fridge for drinks), it was also cosy enough to be a place you wanted to visit time and again. Each member was required to bring a bottle, be it wine or something stronger (depending on the severity of the episode), and we’d rotate who
looked forward to the most. Turns out cracking open a bottle of Steenberg MCC in the middle of a traumatic episode is incredibly therapeutic… On one Monday, a friend made umgqusho for the group. Umgqusho is a Xhosa
“THERE’S NOTHING LIKE WATCHING WAR, TREACHERY AND BETRAYAL OVER A QUALITY SYRAH.”
THE VIEWING PARTY How do you survive watching the last ever season of Game of Thrones with your nerves intact? Make like number-one fan Sibongile Mafu and turn it into a group activity – and don’t hold back on the wine!
ILLUSTRATION: PATRICK LATIMER
Is everyone surviving the winter? Or rather, did everyone survive winter? By the time you read this, the final episode of Game of the Thrones would have aired. We’re probably all still dealing with the after-effects and collective trauma of what it means to be a fan of the show. For those of you that haven’t gotten around to watching it yet: spoilers ahead!
Before the final season started, a small group of my friends and I decided to watch it together every Monday night. Our viewing party, creatively called Game of Thrones Monday, was
compulsory: no excuses, unless you were dying or travelling somewhere that required a passport. One friend was the main host because she had the best house – a beautiful home
in Cape Town’s Hout Bay. It was the perfect location: not only was it equipped with all of the things needed for an exceptional viewing party (a big balcony with a great view, a fireplace
brought dinner. The viewing party was a celebration of a TV show that the six of us had grown to adore, but it also became a place where we’d sip our Monday blues away while mourning characters that had died inevitably horrible deaths. It became the soft place to land after a long day. The place where we fed each other wine – and theories from the episode we’d just watched. There’s nothing quite like watching war, treachery and betrayal over a quality bottle of Syrah. I, for one, fully understand why Cersei had a goblet of wine permanently attached to her hand. It’s the only way to deal with the insanity of the Seven Kingdoms! Halfway through the season, my friend Marcee started drinking bubbly instead of wine. At first, I wasn’t that into it, because what on earth are we celebrating? A dragon just wiped out a whole city! I judged her, until it became the ritual I
dish of samp and beans, best served when you’re in the mood for a bit of comfort. It became the blanket we all needed when a favourite character was killed off in the first 10 minutes of the episode and another dragon had died. And let me tell you, paired with a fullbodied Merlot, the grief became just that little bit easier to deal with. When it was my turn to bring food, I decided to make butter chicken. The old me would’ve taken many shortcuts, but the love and care my friends showed in preparing every dish, inspired me to do the same. The hard work was worth it. Paired with Jordan's Cab Sav, the food was a hit! Our viewing parties became the highlight of my week and a great antidote to the rollercoaster of a show we were all watching. Game of Thrones Monday became a sharing experience. It became a special memory. It became home. And for that, I’ll forever be grateful for winter.
Glass Act – Winter 2019 | 21
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PEOPLE AND PLACES
POURING his heart out There’s far more to being a sommelier than plying patrons with fine wines. If you’re Joseph Dafana, sommelier at Cape Town’s La Colombe, it’s also a job that makes a positive change in the world. PHOTOS: DANIELA ZONDAGH COPY: ANNETTE KLINGER
In the South African wine industry, the success story of Zimbabwean-born sommelier Joseph Dafana is well known. In 2009, he arrived in Riebeek Kasteel in the Western Cape with his wife Amelia, and at the local restaurant Bar Bar Black Sheep, proceeded to work himself up from gardener to barman to waiter. After seeing the joy experienced by patrons he’d served wine to, the bug bit, and he enrolled at the Cape Wine Academy, where he qualified as a sommelier. Soon, he was headhunted by one of the top restaurants in the country, La Colombe in Cape Town. He went on to learn the finer art of making wine, and then gin. And qualified as a wine judge. It’s been a meteoric rise, to say the least. What’s less known about Joseph, however, is what he has done with this success. Both here, and back home, he’s made it his mission to help those in need. “I know what it’s like to survive under harsh conditions,” he says over a coffee on one of his
rare off days. “I don’t have a lot of money, but the little I have, I try to share. If I’m donating, I donate whatever I have, either wine or gin, or I use whatever I have to convert to cash so that I can give it to someone else.” Last year, Joseph raised R16 000 by auctioning off his own wine and then donated the proceeds to a range of charities, from the Eziko Cooking and Catering School in Langa, and the Goedgedacht
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Trust in Riebeek Kasteel to the M. Hugo High School for the Blind in Zimbabwe and his alma mater, Taringana Secondary School, where his donation enabled the school to buy its first-ever photocopier. After the recent destruction of Cyclone Idai, which ravaged Mozambique, Malawi and Zimbabwe, Joseph knew that he needed to help. He called up his friend, restaurateur Harald Bresselschmidt,
who owns Aubergine in Cape Town, and together they held a fundraiser where they managed to raise a whopping R60 000. “I took the money, went to Zim, and bought building materials and supplies,” he says. “In Chaka Village in Chirumhanzu, we gave each family ten packs of cement, a door, a door frame and a lock set. They also got a hamper, which had two kilos of sugar, two kilos of salt, sanitary pads, washing soap, matches and two litres of cooking oil.” In the end, Joseph helped seven families rebuild their homes, and donated hampers to another 30 families. “It’s really important to
give back,” says Joseph. “My dad always told me that the only time you look down on someone, is when you’re helping to raise them up.” The time that Joseph puts aside for his philanthropic work is all the more admirable when you hear how jam-packed his schedule is as a sommelier. “I don’t have luxury of sleeping eight hours!” he laughs. “My day is sixteen to seventeen hours minimum. I always wake up at five in the morning. I check what's trending online to keep me on my toes about what's happening in the wine world. “I start work at 10:30am every day and work until ten or eleven at night. If I have diners pnp.co.za
2019/06/21 15:43
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PEOPLE AND PLACES
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that want to talk about wine, it can be later…” Joseph says off days are for admin and doing deliveries for his wine and gin business, Mosi, which is a one-man operation. “I do the distributing, sales, marketing, social media... I even did all the labelling of the bottles myself!” Elegant in its simplicity, the label design depicts a black-and-white illustration of the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Mosi refers to Mosi-oa-Tunya, the Tonga name for the falls, which means ‘The Smoke That Thunders’. Mosi started out small. In 2014, Joseph made one barrel each of Syrah and Chenin Blanc under the guidance of winemakers Roger Clayton, Chris Mullineux and Eben Sadie.
JOSEPH TELLS US WHAT IT TAKES TO DO HIS JOB – AND IT’S A LOT! “Most people think being a sommelier is guessing which wine goes with food and suggesting it to diners. There’s so much more to it! Yes, you need to know everything there is to know about the wines on the wine list you compiled – how and where the grapes were grown, how the wine was made, who made it, how it was aged – but you also need to know about any other beverage a diner might want. Where the coffee beans in their flat white comes from. How the beer or tequila or bourbon they ordered was made, and how their tastes will complement the dishes they’re served with. You also need to know everything about food to know which wines to pair with which flavours.
If the chef at La Colombe puts a new dish on the menu, I will first taste it, then pick about four or five wines I think could work. I’ll ask the barman to pour them into glasses and then taste them blindly, so they all get a fair judgement. Only then will I make my decision. In my job, attention to detail is very important. Before each shift, I make sure that all my ice buckets are clean and wine glasses polished, and I check that our cellars are running at their right temperatures. Next, I’ll do a debriefing with the waiters: I'll discuss whether there are any changes on the wine list or something that we're running low on. I’ll let them taste the wines and give them notes. And then we’re ready for the shift!”
"IF I WERE SINGLE, I'D MARRY CHENIN BLANC OR SYRAH. THEY'RE VERSATILE, EASY TO WORK WITH, FLEXIBLE, SOFT AND ELEGANT." “If I were single, I'd marry Chenin Blanc or Syrah,” he says, smiling. “I really love those two varieties. They're versatile and easy to work with. They don’t mind heat or cold. They’re flexible. They're soft and elegant.” These days, Joseph makes Chenin Blanc at Eenzaamheid Estate in Paarl, and a Syrah and Merlot at Simelia Wine Estate in Wellington. He’s recently also branched out into making gin, putting his unique stamp on the spirit by infusing it with botanicals from Zimbabwe that are of special significance to him.
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WHAT DOES A SOMMELIER DO?
Lippia javanica, for example, is a plant he grew up rubbing between his hands and inhaling to relieve a blocked nose, and silverleaf bark, again, is something his mother used to give him when he had stomach ails. “The Lippia javanica brings citrus and herbaceous notes to the gin, and the silverleaf
bark, a nice bitterness,” he says. “I also used Rooibos, buchu, ginger and juniper berries.” Joseph says that he could go on and on about his job: about the magic of wine-making,
the countless friendships he’s forged over opened bottles; the changes it’s allowed him to make in others’ lives. He could, but, alas, he should be off. It’s his day off, yes, but there are deliveries to do, emails to answer, shopping to be done for another trip to Zimbabwe... Time waits for no man, least of all this sommelier.
AFTER CYCLONE IDAI, JOSEPH AND HIS BROTHER PHILMON WENT TO ZIMBABWE'S CHIRUMHANZU DISTRICT TO HELP FAMILIES REBUILD THEIR HOMES.
PHOTOS: SILO & SUPPLIED PRICES CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT AND MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
WHAT JOSEPH IS DRINKING THIS WINTER
pnp.co.za
2019/06/21 15:43
Not For Persons Under The Age Of 18.
LAST ROUND
Desert island drink:
J’Something Before I go to my remote desert island, I’ll be packing… lots of water to keep me well hydrated in the hot sun, and then, definitely, some Jin Gin and Fitch & Leedes Indian Tonic. Last but not least, one of my favourite things to drink, especially on an island, is a really ice-cold beer, so I’ll be taking a case of Super Bock.
As the sun goes down and the weather turns nippy… I’ll be sipping on a nice cup of coffee. I’m quite a coffee snob, so I’d probably bring my own coffee grinder and machine, and make some good cappuccinos. For a nightcap, any good-quality Port from Portugal will do.
When the sun’s beating down, my cocktail of choice will be… the tomato and sweet piquanté pepper Jin Gin, which is quite savoury and delicious, with ginger ale. To garnish, I’ll add something herby. Maybe I’ll take a bunch of mint with me.
If I get hungry I’ll whip up some grilled, cubed halloumi and potatoes, tossed in some olive oil and fresh herbs, with a bit of chilli and a splash of lemon juice.
The Jin Gin collection includes Orange, Rooibos & Honey; Tomato & Sweet Piquanté Pepper, and Olive & Honey – all available at PnP for R399.99. Jingin.co.za MiCasa’s new single, Toca, is available on all streaming platforms. Micasamusic.com
For my island soundtrack, I’ll be blasting… Mi Casa’s latest single, Toca, featuring Jay Em. To keep myself busy… I’ll probably take my soccer ball so I can play some soccer, swim in the ocean and try to catch up on my tan!
PHOTOS: SUPPLIED & GETTY/GALLO IMAGES PRICES CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT AND MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
It’s thirsty work having a tropical isle all to yourself, but luckily the Mi Casa front man and brains behind Jin Gin knows exactly what he’ll be stocking his banana-leaf bar with.
26 | Glass Act – Winter 2019
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LIFE’S MEMORABLE MOMENTS MUST BE MOËT & CHANDON
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LIFE’S MEMORABLE MOMENTS MUST BE MOËT & CHANDON MUSGRAVE MUSGRAVE COPPER COPPER PROVIDES PROVIDES A A LIFESTYLE-STATEMENT. LIFESTYLE-STATEMENT. MUSGRAVE COPPER PROVIDES A LIFESTYLE-STATEMENT. It attracts a tribe of drinkers who exist beyond the It attracts a tribe of drinkers who exist beyond the preconceptions of their gender, age or race, they seek out preconceptions of their gender, age or race, seek the out It attracts a tribe of drinkers who exist they beyond the new, they are daring and progressive. the new, they are daring and progressive. preconceptions of their gender, age or race, they seek out the new, they are daring and progressive.
Musgrave Copper is more aligned to the cognac drinker Musgrave Copper is more aligned to the cognac drinker than to a traditional brandy drinker using the finest pot than to a traditional brandy drinker the finest pot Musgrave Copper is more aligned tousing the cognac drinker still brandy with the added excitement of flavour-infusion. still with the added excitement of flavour-infusion. thanbrandy to a traditional brandy drinker using the finest pot still brandy with the added excitement of flavour-infusion.
MUSGRA MUSGRA VE VE COPPER COPPER MUSGRA VEoccasion COPPER Takes and Takes brandy brandy into into aa new new occasion and time time of of day. day. Takes brandy into a new occasion and time of day. @musgravespirits @musgravespirits @musgravespirits
Composite Composite Composite RGBC_M&C_PAT_150TH ARTWORK - PNP GLASS ACT.indd 1
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