Canadian Culinary Federation Serving The Professional Interest of Canadian Chef’s since 1963
Executive Chef Philippe Joannès from France’s Fairmont Monte Carlo judges the 2013 CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada Competition held in Montreal, Cornelia Volino, Manager, CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada observing Meat Platter by Samuel Sirois, CCFCC Montreal Page 12-13 Junior Culinary Team Canada Selected Page 12 Team Canada Wins Gold in Basel, Switzerland Page 17
Mise en Place
WINTER 2014 number 2
Fédération Culinaire Canadienne Servir l’intérêt professionnel de du chef du Canada depuis 1963
Winter 2014 | Mise en Place | 1
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[ inside ] Mise en Place
Winter 2014 2014 President’s Message.............................................................Page 4 Chef Vincenzo Del Duca on Wines.....................................Page 5 Branch News ........................................................................Pages 8 and 9 2013 CCFCC Bocusse d’Or Canada Competition..........Page 12 -13 Junior Culinary Team Canada Selected........................................Page 12 Denise Perry
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2014 president’s message Hello everyone and welcome to the 2nd edition of Mise en Place The first issue was an overwhelming success and we are building on that success. 2013 has been a great year for the federation with a rising membership plus the addition of a new chapter, and the resurrection of some of our old chapters. The 50th anniversary year had many great events across the country: our first International Pasta Day and our International Chefs’ Day. We elected both a new CCFCC culinary team Canada and CCFCC junior culinary team Canada. Congratulations to Niagara College for winning the right to represent the federation for the next 4 years and to JC Felicella and his new culinary team Canada for their stellar performance in Basel, Switzerland: a gold medal in the cold kitchen and a silver medal in the hot kitchen. We also selected a new Bocuse d’Or competitor for 2015. Congratulations to Chef Laurent Godbout of Montreal for winning the right to represent the federation. The CCFCC had the pleasure of sending a team to Dubai in 2013 made up of past CCFCC Bocuse d’Or alumni and walked away with a silver medal. Thank you to Dr. Jane Ruddick and all the members of that team. 2014 is shaping up to be a stellar year for the federation with a new revamped CCI. An updated CCC exam and curriculum are being introduced. The conference in Gatineau will be one not to miss. Details will begin in early January on the CCFCC website. I am looking forward to the night at a traditional sugar shack. We have entered a preliminary bid to host the 2018 WACS congress in Vancouver, the first step in a long lengthy process. 4 | Mise en Place | Winter 2014
Publisher: Pierre Little publisher@ccfccmag.com Editor: Amy Jeanroy editor@ccfccmag.com Graphics: Atlantic Journals production@ccfccmag.com Advertisement bookings: 506-878-3079 advertising@ccfccmag.com Media Kit www.ccfccmag.com/ads Contributors:
Congratulations to the CCFCC Oakville and CCFCC Toronto on co-hosting the first WACS-sanctioned culinary salon in Canada in some years in March at the CRFA show in Toronto. Both the junior and senior national chefs’ challenges are well underway in all the provinces across the country with the finals at our national convention in May. I would like to thank all our corporate partners for your support. Without you, our federation would not continue to be the growing success it is. Please remember this is your federation and without your continued support our federation would not be a success. So please get involved. This year is a federal election for many of the national board positions, so please put your hat in the ring for one of these. See you all in 2014. Living the dream,
Donald Gyurkovits President, CCFCC
Warren Bobrow Mise En Place is published quarterly and its production and adminstration is commissioned by Atlantic Journals on behalf of the Canadian Culinary Federation. We welcome member comments and suggestions. Please email your comments or suggestions to editor@ccfccmag.com All contents Copyright 2013, BBJ, Inc. ISSN 2292-0277 (Print) ISSN 2292-0285 (Online) Atlantic Journals, BBJ Inc. 2170 Weldfield-Collette Rd. Collette, N.B. E4Y 1H5 tel: 506 878-3079 fax: 506 775-1037 www.ccfccmag.com
Mise en Place
What do Chefs Want to Know About Wine? by By Chef Vincenzo Del Duca c.c.c. ; h.s.
M
cellar !
ost Chefs willingly admit they would like to know more about wine than they do, and that they probably know more about their produce in the fridge than the wines in their
I have conducted workshops for our Junior Members; Education evenings for our Members at Large; and Riedel Glass Tastings for our Trade Professionals and the Public. I view wine as another ingredient in a meal – not an afterthought but a component that must harmonize with other ingredients to create a complete experience. Talk to some of the “wine snobs” of the world and they all make it sound like you need a Ph.D. to taste wine correctly. They are wrong! Sure there is a lot to know and you can make it as complicated as you want, but if you really want to understand wine, the best thing you can do is taste as many different kinds of wine as you can get your hands on and remember a few important points about tasting. The Basics You’re having fish for dinner – what wine do you choose? The standard answer would be – “something white,” but that isn’t necessarily true these days. Food has changed. Wines have changed. That doesn’t mean anything goes...try drinking a dry red wine with a sweet food and you’ll instantly taste the basis for the “tried and true” rules. But it does mean you have some choices. Think About Weight The most basic rule of pairing wine and food is to balance the weight of the food with the weight of the wine. There’s no point in pairing a light Grenache with Venison Stew or barbequed spare ribs; it simply won’t stand up. Pair it with a nice Shiraz or a fruity Zinfandel and both the food and the wine will taste better. The bolder the dish, the bolder the wine must be to stand up to it.
Accompaniments Consider the way a meal is cooked. Steaming a piece of fish results in a much more delicate flavour than broiling the same piece of fish leading to a lighter wine to the former and a fuller one for the latter.. Also keep in mind the sauce that is served with a dish and the side dishes on the table. A pinot noir may go perfectly with your holiday turkey, but the sweetness in side dishes like yams and cranberry sauce are sure to make the wine taste sour. Beaujolais or a Zinfandel might work better. Complement vs. Contrast Consider wine to be a complement or a contrast to your meal. A complementing wine should have flavours that are compatible with the main dish; a contrasting wine does exactly that, it contrasts the main aspect of a dish as a tart wine with a rich creamy dish. Temperature and Spice • Dishes served cold generally have less overt flavours, so a delicate wine like a Pinot Gris or a Pinot Blanc from Alsace would work well. • Spicy dishes need a tart wine, like a spicy Gewürztraminer or an “appley” Riesling. • When in doubt, Champagne or Sparkling wine and quality Dry Rose are classic all-purpose matches for a wide variety of foods. Think about the following things before you choose your wine for a meal: Acidity - An acidic wine will cut through fat like a dream, making a dish seem less rich. Acidic wines can also heighten the flavor of a dish, similar to a lemon. If your dish is lemony, vinegary or has any other citrus fruit flavours – the accompanying wine must have equal acidity or it will taste flat. This generally means white wines, although there are a few acidic reds to choose from with low tannins, such as Pinot Noir or Beaujolais that may also work well. Sweetness - A general rule of thumb is the wine must be at least as sweet as the food. If not, the wine will taste tart and thin. Tannin - There’s really only one true partner for a chewy, tannic wine like Cabernet Sauvignon – meat. It smoothes out the tannins perfectly.
Conversely the protein molecules in cheese and eggs ten to be bound by tannin and will amplify its astringent qualities. Lighter reds like Pinot Noir go well with broiled salmon and poultry, but the big tannic reds are better left to the red meats. Now that the Holidays are approaching have your Holiday Wines Stocked and Chilled This means the French Champagnes, Italian Prosecco’s & Spumanti; Spanish Cava, or German Sekt. And Canadian and American Sparkling Wines The Value these days are the large variety of Italian Prosecco from “Valdobbiadene” a picturesque stepped Alpine Region in Veneto or the Superior wines of the district of “Franciacorta” Made in the Traditional Champagne Method of secondary fermentation in the bottle.. Whatever you decide the Hallmark of Quality is in the Large number of very tiny bubbles and tastes of Grape .. Not Wood. Have a Wine Question – send me an email at tuscanchef@gmail.com Oh and a Special Kudos to you in the West … Mission Hill, Maidin Lane Pinot Noir was voted the Best Pinot Noir in it’s category by the prestigious Decanter Awards for Best Region and Worlds Best Wine from 14,000 bottles of 61 Regions. This Award put California Wines on the Map.. and now Canada ! Please send a bottle to The Tuscan Chef if you have one. ! Cin Cin, A la Salute ( to your health) “Everybody should believe in something; I believe I’ll have another glass of wine!”
Winter 2014 | Mise en Place | 5
Que Désirent Savoir Les Chiefs Au Sujet Du Vin? Par Chef Vincenzo Del Duca c.c.c. ; h.s. a plupart des chefs admettent volontiers qu’ils souhaiteraient mieux connaitre le vin et qu’ils en savent plus sur les produits qu’ils gardent dans leur réfrigérateur que sur ceux entreposés dans leur cave ! J’ai organisé des ateliers pour nos membres juniors, des soirées de formation pour l’ensemble des membres et des soirées de dégustation dans des verres Riedel pour les professionnels et pour le grand public. Je considère le vin comme un ingrédient à part entière dans le repas ; pas comme un élément secondaire, mais comme une composante s’harmonisant avec les autres ingrédients afin de rendre l’expérience gustative plus entière. Quand vous vous entretenez avec certains de ces connaisseurs de vin un peu snobs, ils vous donnent l’impression qu’il vous faut un doctorat en oenologie pour être en mesure de faire la dégustation de vins dans les règles de l’art. Ils ont tort ! Bien sûr, il y a bien des choses à savoir et on peut rendre la dégustation aussi complexe qu’on ne le veut, mais si vous désirez réellement comprendre ce qu’est le vin, il importe d’explorer la plus grande variété de bouteilles possible et de se rappeler de quelques principes importants en matière de dégustation de vin. Les principes de base Vous mangez du poisson... Quel vin choisir ? Une réponse tout à fait classique serait... « un petit blanc ». Mais ce n’est plus nécessairement vrai de nos jours. La nourriture a changé. Les vins ont changé. Ce qui ne veut pas dire que tout va... Essayez de boire un vin rouge sec en accompagnement d’un plat sucré et vous vous rendrez très vite compte que les deux ne s’accordent pas. Cependant, vous avez indéniablement des choix. Pensez « saveur » La règle la plus élémentaire dans l’accord mets-
L
vin, c’est d’harmoniser la saveur des mets avec celle du vin. Il est inutile de servir un grenache léger avec un civet de chevreuil ou avec des côtes levées grillées. Ce serait une erreur. Mais si vous servez un bon shiraz ou un zinfandel fruité, autant le mets et le vin auront meilleur goût. Plus le mets est savoureux, goûteux, plus devra l’être le vin pour s’accorder. Les accompagnements Considérez d’abord la façon dont un mets est apprêté. Un poisson cuit à la vapeur aura une saveur plus délicate que le même poisson préparé sur la grille. Si le premier mode de cuisson s’accommode mieux d’un vin plus léger, le second exige un vin un peu plus charnu. Aussi, tenez compte de la sauce qui est servie avec le mets ainsi que des plats d’accompagnement qui garnissent la table. Si un pinot noir s’accorde bien avec votre dinde de Noël, le goût sucré des patates douces ou de la sauce aux canneberges donnera inévitablement une saveur acidulée à votre vin. Un beaujolais ou un zinfandel seraient alors une meilleure alternative. Complément ou contraste Il faut considérer le vin comme un élément complémentaire sinon un élément contrastant dans votre expérience gastronomique. Un vin qui complémente bien un repas devrait posséder des saveurs compatibles avec celles qu’on retrouve dans le plat principal. C’est d’ailleurs exactement ce que fait un vin contrastant : il se démarque des saveurs dominants d’un mets comme le fait un vin acide en accompagnement d’un plat riche et crémeux. Température et épices Généralement, les saveurs de plats servis froids sont moins manifestes. Un vin délicat comme un pinot gris ou un pinot blanc de l’Alsace seraient alors un choix pertinent. Des mets relevés, épicés, s’accompagnent mieux d’un vin acide comme un gewürtztraminer ou un riesling au bouquet de pomme. Si vous avez des doutes, un champagne, un mousseux ou un rosé sec de qualité présentent des solutions passepartout classiques et se marient bien à une grande variété de mets. À considérer avant de choisir son vin pour le repas L’acidité - Un vin acide coupera la graisse et fera en sorte qu’un mets parait moins riche. Des vins acides peuvent également relever la saveur d’un mets tel que le fait un citron. Si votre mets est citronné, vinaigré ou chargé des saveurs d’un agrume quelconque, le vin d’accompagnement devra présenter une acidité équivalente, faute de quoi il aura un
goût fade. En général, le choix idéal serait un vin blanc, bien qu’il existe quelques rouges acides et peu tanniques qui conviennent bien, comme un pinot noir ou un beaujolais. Goût sucré - En règle générale, le vin doit être au moins aussi sucré que la nourriture, sans quoi il sera acide et fade au goût. Tanin - Il n’y a vraiment qu’un seul compagnon pour un vin aux tanins mâchus et veloutés : la viande. Elle atténue les tanins parfaitement. À l’inverse, les molécules de protéine contenues dans le fromage et les oeufs ont tendance à se lier aux tanins et amplifient ainsi leur qualité astringente. Des rouges plus légers comme le pinot noir accompagnent bien le saumon grillé et la volaille, mais les rouges costauds et riches en tanins, mieux vaut les réserver pour boire avec de la viande rouge. Et avec les temps des Fêtes qui s’approchent, assurez-vous d’avoir entreposé et rafraichi vos vins On pense ici aux champagnes français, aux prosecco et aux spumanti italiens, aux cava espagnols, aux sekt allemands et aux mousseux canadiens et américains. Une valeur sûre, ces jours-ci : un grand éventail de prosecco italiens de Valdobbiadene, une ville alpine pittoresque dans la région de Veneto, ou encore les vins supérieurs du district de Franciacorta, élaborés selon des procédés traditionnels de fermentation secondaire en bouteille. Quels que soient vos coups de coeur, la preuve de qualité réside dans la quantité élevée de petites bulles et dans les saveurs du raisin, pas dans le nez boisé. Avez-vous des questions relatives au vin ? N’hésitez pas de m’envoyer un courriel. Oh... Mes félicitations à vous viticulteurs dans l’Ouest ! Mission Hill, Maidin Lane Pinot Noir a été voté le meilleur pinot noir dans sa catégorie, parmi 14 000 bouteilles provenant de 61 régions, par le Decanter Awards pour meilleure région et meilleur vin au monde. Ce prestigieux prix a donné une visibilité aux vins californiens... et maintenant aussi canadiens ! Prière d’envoyer une bouteille au chef toscan, si vous en avez une ! Cin cin, a la salute (à votre santé) « Tout le monde devrait croire en quelque chose ; Moi, je crois que je me verserai un autre verre de vin. » Article présenté par le chef Vincenzo Del Duca c.c.c. pour le CCFCC Courriel - tuscanchef@gmail.com
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Branch news...
International Chefs Day in Vancouver October 18th, 2013 “Over 50 Vancouver chefs will converge on Oppenheimer Park on October 18th to serve fellow Vancouverites and celebrate International Chefs Day,” says Chef Edgar Rahal, President of the BC Chefs’ Association. Since International Chefs Day was inaugurated in 2004, October 20th has been marked as a special occasion by culinarians to salute the profession and create awareness of chefs who have set remarkable industry standards for the art of cooking. The commemorative day was initiated by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS). This global body has 93 official chefs associations as members and represents over 10 million professional chefs worldwide. The main aim of this special day is for chefs from all over the world are to create massive awareness of the profession by hosting culinary competitions, demonstrations and charity events to raise funds for the
international culinary community. Government officials, charity organizations and tourism boards from each country will come together to drive the vision of WACS, as well as raise the profile of the associations. For the past 9 years, the British Columbia Chefs’ Association together with the Chinese Canadian Chefs’ Association and the Hong Kong Canada Chef Club have taken this opportunity to give back to their community. Among chefs making an appearance will be JC Felicella, Vancouver Community College’s top chef of Vancouver and Vancouver
Community College Culinary programs will also be serving. “We anticipate serving well over 1100+Vancouverites less fortunate than us starting at 11 am,” says Rahal. “We look forward to this day with great anticipation.”
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Branch news...
28th Annual Ottawa Wine and Food Festival Ottawa members of the Canadian Culinary Federation assumed a more significant role than ever this fall at the 28th annual Ottawa Wine and Food Festival, offering the show’s main food attractions Nov. 1 through 3 in a unique “Gastronomic Culinary Theatre Marché” with a series of sold-out 90-minute seatings. The four-course menu (with a selection of artisan cheeses) was paired wines and beer at strategically placed action stations for a reasonable price of $50 a ticket. In addition, culinary members offered “cash and carry” food options attendees could enjoy while walking among the winery booths at the city’s showcase Ottawa Convention Centre. CCFCC members also served hot and cold hors d’oeuvres, billed as a two-hour wine and food Tasting Alley on Friday and Saturday nights, including finger nibbles and action stations with flambé shrimp, barbecue pork tacos and carved beef tenderloin. “Ottawa chefs have always had a booth at the Wine and Food show,” said Russ Weir, presi-
dent of the Ottawa CCFCC and Executive Chef, food services, at Algonquin College. “Over the years we’ve done various things primarily focused on one dish to promote the culinary federation. The idea was always to give our association exposure, as well as giving junior members and students an opportunity to work with experienced chefs.” But four years ago chefs upped the ante by partnering with the festival to raise their profile, as well as earn money for annual student bursaries and culinary competitions. “That partnership gave us access to more space, which allowed us to do a fund-raiser by presenting a chefs’ table where people could pre-book seatings throughout the weekend,” Weir said. “We served three small plates, all paired with Canadian wines, and found we were completely sold out in the first year. So, the second year we doubled the space to 40 people per seating and renamed it the Culinary Theatre where patrons could sample what a group of Ottawa CCFCC members had served just a
month earlier at the prestigious James Beard House in lower Manhattan.” From there, the food theatre took on a life of its own: In 2012, the theme presented variations of cured pork as chefs created an all-Canadian bacon bar with three innovative dishes paired with local craft beers. Not surprisingly, it was a sell-out. “This year we were excited to present Culinary Theatre Marché, which was our riff on a walk through a farmers’ market idea. But in this case we’re presenting 40 people per sitting, every 90 minutes, with action stations serving three hot dishes, a selection of cheeses and a choice of two superlative desserts, all paired with Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs wines as well as beer from Big Rig Brewery,” Weir said. Okanagan Chefs Association International Chefs Day
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To celebrate, our branch gathered at Hazeldell Apple Orchards where we made apple juice - 333 x 5 litre boxes which we donated to the Kelowna Food Bank. One of our members, Frank Deiter owns a mobile juicing truck. His company was recently featured on Dragons Den. The mobile juicer juices the apples, pasteurizes it & bags it right in the orchard. Our members then put the bags of juice into boxes. It was a great day - a bit cold, but we warmed up with hot apple cider. We will be handing out the boxes of juice during Christmas when we volunteer as a group at the Food Bank. Submitted by Deanna Hodge OCA Vice President Winter 2014 | Mise en Place | 9
Branch news...
Competitions...
CACC Chef’s Day in 2013 CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada Calgary National Selection Competition Winners by Fred Malley, CCC, President, Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks
T
he Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks celebrated International Chef ’s Day in conjunction with Pasta Day as the dates were so close. On November 1, we prepared a hot lunch for 298 Bowcroft High School students with some food left to make individual freezer portions for some needy students during the following week. Community Kitchens, an organization that provides meals to people in need, coordinated the service of the lunch. We are grateful to Rozina for meat balls and Barilla for the pasta. Heritage Foods (Cheemo Perogies) and Kraft cheese portions supplemented the meal for appreciative students. International Pacific Sales provided the tomato sauce. Toss in Stampede Park Catering to coordinate the sauce and Saffron Personal Chef for their kitchen and help and everything came together quickly. All in all, a great success made easier with a lot of cooperation.
W
e are pleased to announce that Chef Laurent Godbout of Chez L’Épicier Restaurant in Montréal, Quebec was the winner receiving the First Place Trophy at the 2013 CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada National Selection Competition. Chef Godbout, a member of the CCFCC Montreal Branch will now represent the CCFCC and Canada at the prestigious Bocuse d’ Or Competition www.bocusedor. com in Lyon, France on January 27 and 28, 2015. Adam Martin, the commis assisting Chef Godbout during the competition, also won the Best Commis Trophy sponsored by Rougié. The Second Place Trophy was awarded to CCFCC Edmonton Branch member Chef James Olberg, Executive Chef at Sheraton Red Deer Hotel in Red Deer, Alberta who was assisted by commis Joshua Kelly. Chef Olberg will represent Canada and the CCFCC at
the Bocuse d’Or in 2017 and be part of the CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada support team for Chef Godbout in 2015. CCFCC Vancouver Branch member, Chef Quang Dang, Executive Chef at West Restaurant and Bar in Vancouver, British Columbia, assisted by commis Daniel Kim, received the Third Place Fellow competitors included: From CCFCC Montreal, Chef Samuel Sirois, Executive Sous Chef at Manoir Rouville Campbell in St-Hilaire, Québec and commis Nikola Laprise; From CCFCC Calgary, Chef Michael Dekker, Culinary Instructor at SAIT College in Calgary, Alberta and commis Madison Miller; and From CCFCC Vancouver, Chef Eric Lee of Damso Restaurant in Burnaby, British Columbia and commis Kyle Davis. The prestigious Jury Panel included Head of Jury Cornelia Volino, Manager of Continued on page 12
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Continued from page 10
CCFCC Bocuse D’Or Canada; Luc Boissy, Assistant Manager of CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada; Bruno Marti, Coach for CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada and CCFCC Culinary Team Canada; Alex Chen, Canadian representative at the 2013 Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, France; Jérome Ferrer, Chef of L’Europea Restaurant in Montréal and International Guest Jury Member Philippe Joannès, Executive Chef at the Fairmont Monte-Carlo in France. The National Selection Competition was held at CFP Jacques Rousseau in Longueuil, Quebec http://cfp-jacques-rousseau.ecoles. csmv.qc.ca Each competitor, accompanied by his commis prepared a hot platter for 14 people consisting of one grain fed veal loin and one duck liver with 3 garnishes and 14 individual plates consisting of Atlantic salmon and Canadian lobster. The Next CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada National Selection Competition will occur in the Spring 2016.
Junior Culinary Team Canada Selected
A team from Niagara College’s Canadian Food and Wine Institute has won the Canadian Culinary Federation of Chefs and Cooks Junior Culinary Team Selection Competition. They now hold the title of Junior Culinary Team Canada, and will represent Canada at the 2016 World Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany. Congratulations to team members: Lead members Wes Lund (St. Catharines), Ian Dawson(Coldwater/St.Catharines), Daniella Germond (St. Catharines), and Brittany Calsavara (Windsor); and their teammates David Ross (Peterborough), Jeremy Gilligan (St. Catharines), Katrina Young (Hamilton), Megan Proper (Burford), Rebekka Schmitt (Silverdale), Scott McInerney (Peterborough/St. Catharines) and Trevor Littlejohn (Paisley).
CCFCC 2014 WESTERN CONFERENCE March 7th & 8th, 2014 Check out is the 9th
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405 20th St E, Saskatoon, SK S7K 6X6 (306) 665-3322 Contact: Chef Anthony McCarthy anthonym@saskatoonclub.com or Chef Trevor Robertson trobertson@silverbirchhotels.com www.ccfccsaskatoonbranch.org
qrcode.17342839 12 | Mise en Place | Winter 2014
Laurent Godbout wins Bocuse d’Or Canada
1st Place
2nd Place
(L to R) Jérome Ferrer, Judge, CCFCC Montreal; Luc Boissy, Asst Manager, CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada, Alex Chen, Judge, CCFCC Vancouver and Canadian representative at 2013 Bocuse d’Or; Laurent Godbout, 1st Place Winner, CCFCC Montreal; Adam Martin, commis
(L to R) Luc Boissy, Asst Manager, CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada; Philippe Joannès, Judge- France; James Olberg, 2nd place winner, CCFCC Edmonton; Joshua Kelly, commis; Cornelia Volino, Manager, CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada
3rd Place
(L to R) Bruno Marti, Judge, CCFCC Vancouver; Quang Dang, 3rd Place Winner, CCFCC Vancouver; Daniel Kim, commis; Cornelia Volino, Manager, CCFCC Bocuse d’Or Canada
Winner of Best Commis Award
(L to R) Sylvain Gilbert, Kitchen Judge, CCFCC Montreal; Benoit Cuchet, President in America, Rougié and Adam Martin, CCFCC Montreal, Winner of Best Commis Award sponsored by Rougié.
Winter 2014 | Mise en Place | 13
A Cook’s Tale
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Reflections From Behind the Cutting Board by Avi Sternberg
A
meditative silence engulfed the crisp morning air. The crunch of lightly packed snow crunched beneath the thick soles of my winter boots. Snowflakes drifted down and gently settle on my white-chefs uniform as my hands twist the cold knob handle and open the door to the kitchen at the traditional Japanese Inn, Chitosekan, where I was training. Chitosekan lay just one and one-half hours from the city Sendai, the location of the horrendous Tsunami of 2011. The lights to the kitchen punch in as if to announce the start of another work day. Turn on the tea kettle, set the rice for steaming. At the end of my routine I move to fix the cutting boards of my senior chefs before settling into my work station. Here I gather my ingredients for my Mise en Place for the day. Originally I turned to Japanese cooking for the lore of the knife. My goal was to attain the movements, and grace of the Japanese sushi chef I watched one day at a sushi restaurant in Boulder Colorado when I was 21 years old. He moved with such fluidity while making rolls, nigiri and cutting sashimi. There was something different about the precision in knife control and handling of fresh fish this chef displayed. My goal to understand the foundation of Japanese knife skills inspired me to follow the training of a Japanese chef. In 2001, just one month after the twin tower explosions, I set off to the land of Cherry
blossoms, geisha, the tea ceremony, and bullet trains. Our personal knives are the tools we carry with us from job to job, one episode in life to the next. The textures of the knife handle and the unique contours of the knife’ blade act as a display as to where the knife has been and the experiences it holds dear. The cutting board, however, does not move from its place in the kitchen and is a permanent resident of its inherited facility. Therefore the cutting boards that we use, become the mirrors that reflect where we are, what we are cooking in the present and to an extent what is happening in our lives. This brings me to the tale of my experience on working with the cutting boards in Canada. My family and I arrived in Prince Rupert in 2009, thrilled to be moving to the “City of Rainbows.” It did not occur to me that the city of rainbows literally meant the rainiest city in British Columbia with a few rainbows a year. Training in Canada has been a fun and balanced experience. While learning the beauty and depth of Japanese culinary arts, I was required to study not only cuisine but also a wide variety of other cultural arts that are connected to Kaiseki, traditional Japanese fine dining. These included ikebana, flower arrangement, Chado, the way of tea, Sado, the way of calligraphy and Continued on page 17
Winter 2014 | Mise en Place | 15
You’ll Love Our Loligo! ˜
Spicy Orange Grilled Calamari with Balsamic Glaze
I am excited to be a part of the High Liner Foodservice Team and look forward to helping you increase your sales and profits with innovative menu ideas, handling tips and much more. Philman George, Chef/Culinary Manager
Imperial Metric
Ingredients
8 ¼ cup 2 tsp 2 tbsp 1
8 50 mL 10 mL 30 mL 1
4
4
High Liner Foodservice Raw Loligo Squid Tubes chili oil grated orange zest chopped fresh parsley clove garlic, minced salt, to taste blood or regular oranges, sliced thinly
Garnish
Serves 4
balsamic glaze fresh chives
Method Make cuts in squid almost all the way through to create rings. Combine chili oil, orange zest, parsley, garlic and salt; toss with squid and marinate at least 15 minutes. Grill until cooked and tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Assembly Place a few orange slices on plate and overlap 2 squid (crisscross) per serving. Garnish with balsamic glaze and chives.
Mild, sweet and tender,
High Liner Raw Loligo Squid is completely cleaned and skinless. It is conveniently packaged and ready to use. Choose from: Rings and tentacles in 9 oz pouches Tubes and tentacles, available in two sizes and packed in 2.5 lb trays Contact your High Liner representative to learn more.
t t
1-800-387-7422 www.highlinerfoodservice.com
Team Canada Wins Gold at the Culinary World Masters in Basel, Switzerland
HOT OR COLD FOAM
Culinary Team Canada from L to R: Giulia Nardiello, Clement Chan, Hamid Salimian, Luis Clavel, Shawn Lang, Laura Sharpe Dawe, Natalie Fortier, James Hutton, Daniel Davyduke, Scott Baechler
T
his past November 23-27, 2013 Team Canada took home the Gold and Silver at the Salon Culinaire Mondial, in Basel, Switzerland. Ranked as one of the three most important international team cooking competitions, ten of the best national teams and additional participants from more than thirty countries were cooking to gain points in world ranking.
Continued from page 14
also attend museum exhibits to see laquarware, and other art forms. Japanese traditional cuisine demands perfection at every step of the process. The focus and dedication to training requires the chef to at times sacrifice his or her time with their family for the sake of professional development and dedication to the company. From the minute the kitchen lights are turned on until the departing words I shared with my senior chefs to wish them a good day of hard work, every action became intentional and thought out. With this experience to compare to, working in Canada has allowed me to simultaneously grow as a professional and maintain a healthy and harmonious family life. My first four years in Prince Rupert found me standing in front of a cutting board of a sushi establishment. During the first year and a half I trained with a mentor who was from Tokyo. Upon his departure I made it my initiative as head chef to stay true to the cooking methods and taste
The Salon Culinaire Mondial is held every six years and is a measure of the skills and performance of culinary art teams. Team Canada won the Gold in the cold program and Silver in the hot program. These prestigious wins are the direct result of the hard work and dedication of this amazing team.
A Cook’s Tale of which I packed into my luggage of taste and knowledge during my training in Japan. The amazing access to fresh seafood from the coast of BC and Japanese ingredients has never presented problems when developing my menus. I feel fortunate to have participated in a variety of government initiatives such as grants given to individuals pursuing their Red Seal, FoodSafe, First Aid, and Serving It Right. My Japanese wife and I are currently participants of BC’s Skills Connect program for new immigrants. With this financial support my Chef de Cuisine studies are underway, and we are learning French. Each day the morning bell rings and I watch my 6 year old run towards his bilingual French immersion experience, I feel a great appreciation to the Canadian experience and the many opportunities that await us as knife-wielding chefs.
Perfect cappuccinos, lattes and mochas with barista quality at the touch of a button. Endless new beverage possibilities with Franke’s new cold foam.
Scan the QR code to view product demos and more.
Author of “Itamae: My Life In Front of The Cutting Board” www.itamae-book.com Fall 2013 | Mise en Place | 17
CCFCC Culinary Team Canada - Dubai 2013
WELCOME TO THE FEDERATION BIENVENUE À LA FÉDÉRATION Since the last issue of Mise en Place the following new members have joined our ranks and we look forward to their participation in Branch activities and enhancing their respective career paths. Depuis la dernière édition de Mise en Place, les nouveaux membres suivants se comptent parmi nous et nous anticipons leur participation aux activités du chapitre et à l’amélioration de leurs plans de carrière respectifs.
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ovember was be a busy month for the Canadian Culinary Federation Culinary Teams! CCFCC Culinary Team Canada under the management of John Carlo Felicella, has been invited to compete at the prestigious IGEHO Salon Culinaire Mondial 2013 to be held in Basel, Switzerland from November 23 -27, 2013. The Federation has also been invited by Sheik Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the Royal Palace and government of Dubai and the Emirates Culinary Guild to send a team of chefs to compete in the WACS sanctioned Dubai World Hospitality Championships, from November 17-19, 2013. The dilemma: Culinary Team Canada is already committed to the IGEHO competition so were unable to take up the challenge. What team of chefs could be found that were capable of producing a world class buffet table and hot main courses and desserts for 54 of the Sheik’s invited guests.....with the minimum of time to plan and practice? Who better than the Bocuse d’Or Alumni chefs! Eight former Bocuse d’Or competitors – joined by Pastry Chef Arthur Chen - all readily agreed to join the team.
Mise en Place
Spring 2014
18 | Mise en Place | Winter 2014
With one intense planning meeting held last week and a single practice scheduled for early October, these chefs, who have already given so much of their time to compete for Canada as individuals, are now ready and excited to take on the challenge of cooking together as one team. This extraordinary group of professionals who represented Canada and the Federation in Dubai: Bernard Casavant – Culinary Manager Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 1991 Michael Nobel – Team Captain Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 1995, 1997 Chris Mills – Team Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2001 Andrew Springett – Team Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2003 Morgan Wilson – Support Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2005 Scott Jaeger – Team Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2007 David Wong – Support Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2009 Ryan Stone – Team Member Bocuse d’Or Canadian Candidate 2011 Arthur Chen – Pastry Chef World Culinary Olympics Pastry Chef 2000-present. Jane Ruddick Manager, CCFCC Culinary Team Canada Dubai 2013 Ready, Committed, Proud, Canadian
Spring issue April 2014 SEND US YOUR NEWS Contact us at (506) 878-3079 to submit news or by email: editor@ccfccmag.com Advertising Deadline March 14, 2014 email: advertising@ccfccmag.com
FEDERATION MEMBERS MEMBRES DE LA FÉDÉRATION Name/Nom Branch/Chapitre Daryl R. Kerr Erin A. Circelli-Russell Harish G. Nair Jeff C. Moore John D. Clark Nilo C. Serbise Quang T. Dang Roland Hofner Stephane J. Legari Stephanie Brewster
CAL LDN EDM BRN VAN CAL VAN LDN OTT LDN
JUNIOR MEMBERS MEMBRES JUNIORS Name/Nom Branch/Chapitre Adam S. Tundak Allison J. Pevler Andrew T. Bishop Bailey A. Rogers Brandon R. St. Denis Brandy L. McIsaac Breanne S. Garven Caroline Szakiel Christopher P. Habana Clayton S. Liebe Daniel Kim David G.E. Elliott Fei Yi Li Gourav Chauhan Hannah M. Dicaire Heena Kim Holly-Anne Holt Jake D. Lyon James P. Williams Jasper P. Maglasang John M. Cooper Joshua A. Kelly Julia M. Hogendoorn Kavita Dua Kirsten L. Longva Kyle C. Passant Mark B. Sabado Marshall J. Bell Nicholas P. Lesoway Nicki Britton Ramil Paje Raymond Ings Samantha J. Proctor Victoria L. Kelso
EDM MSK EDM PEI MSK EDM MSK TOR CAL EDM VAN MSK TOR MSK MSK EDM EDM MSK PEI CAL MSK EDM EDM EDM PEI MSK CAL EDM EDM CAL CAL MSK MSK EDM
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