Canadian Culinary Federation Serving The Professional Interest of Canadian Chefs since 1963
World Association of Chefs Hosts Culinary World Cup - Expogast in Luxembourg
Mise en Place
WINTER 2015 number 6 Mail Agreement no. 42659012
Fédération Culinaire Canadienne Servir l’intérêt professionnel de du chef du Canada depuis 1963
Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 1
Mac’s is a seafood wholesaler which offers a variety of first-rate Atlantic and International seafood being ethically sourced by trusted processors from around the globe. Mac’s offers a full line of seafood products that include value added items like Atlantic salmon pinwheels with lobster, Newfoundland cod fish cakes and Nova Scotian breaded and buttered haddock. As well, Mac’s provides consistent value seafood from Georges Bank’s deep sea scallops, Argentinian wild natural shrimp to Atlantic lobster and snow crab meats and much more!
O’Donaghues Irish Pub & Eatery Miramichi, NB Chef Brian Matheson
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www.MacsSeafood.ca
In New Brunwick, distributed by Northumberland Dairy. With over 35 years of experience within the seafood industry throughout 2 | Mise en Place | Winter 2015 the North American and European Markets.
Happy New Year 2015
[ inside ] Mise en Place Winter 2015
2014 President’s Message.............................................................Page 4 Chef Vincenzo Del Duca on Wines.....................................Page 5
Bonne année 2015
Lethbridge Branch Junior Chefs..............................................Page 9 Expogast - Luxembourg..............................................................Page 10 Vanvouver Chef pens Auto-Biography.............................Page 18 A Bit About A Branch - Moncton........................................Page 21
Canadian Culinary Federation Introducing the New Intelli Kitchen Master!
Hard Work Ethic..............................................................................Page 23 New Members...................................................................................Page 26
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President’s message
2015 - Go teams
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s the year draws to an end it’s time for a little reflection of our past year and a little anticipation of the year to come. 2014 was a successful year for the CCFCC. We obtained many new partnerships. Our magazine was a huge success, and our membership remained strong. Our board is continuing to work as a unit to fulfill a vision we have to continue the success of the federation. The CCFCC conference in Quebec was a conference none will soon forget. We had guests from around the world with us to share in food, fun and education. The success of both our junior and senior culinary teams in Luxembourg are a testament to the skill of our chefs and cooks in Canada. Both teams brought home a silver in the cold program and a gold in their hot program. The CCI under the direction of Chef James Hutton continues to be strong in our CCC program and we see much interest in the CMC course. The CCFCC/Saputo junior culinary exchange was a great success on beautiful Vancouver Island. Thank you to all who gave their time to ensure our four juniors had a once in a lifetime experience. In 2015 the CCFCC hits the road running. In January our Bocuse d’Or team is off to Lyon to compete in one of the toughest culinary events in the world. The CCFCC national board has appointed all new committee chairs for the next two years. So please show your support to these chefs who have volunteered to help with the growth of your federation. Our CCFCC competition rules are out for both the senior and junior national challenges; check the website for details. The CCFCC/ Saputo junior culinary exchange will be hosted in Saskatchewan this year, so all you juniors get ready to apply for an opportunity of a lifetime. Details are coming soon. The national conference is coming at the end of May and our committee is planning to make this conference one that cannot be missed. Rumours are there is going to
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Publisher: Pierre Little publisher@ccfccmag.com Editor: Amy Jeanroy editor@ccfccmag.com Graphics: Cheryl Stabinski production@ccfccmag.com Advertisement bookings: 506-878-3079 advertising@ccfccmag.com Media Kit www.ccfccmag.com/ads
be a Newfoundland kitchen party and you get to kiss the cod. They are working on many great seminars and the food will be out of this world as the junior and senior teams will be participating in events. This is a great opportunity to meet your teams and put a face to a name. In March the CCFCC Oakville branch and the CCFCC Toronto branch will host its 2nd WACSsanctioned culinary salon. Please come show your support. Put in an entry or bring a team. Again without our corporate partners all the events we do on a national, regional, and local level would not be possible so please support those who support us. We are always looking for updates on what you are doing as branches across the country, so please drop us a line. Write an article and send your pictures. Wishing you all a safe and prosperous 2015! Living the dream, Donald Gyurkovits President, CCFCC
Cover Chef Bruno Marti BC CCFCC Chef Luis Clavel of Atlantica Hotel Halifax Mise En Place is published quarterly and its production and administration is commissioned by Atlantic Journals on behalf of the Canadian Culinary Federation. We welcome member comments and suggestions. Please email your comments or suggestions to editor@ccfccmag.com All contents Copyright 2015, BBJ, Inc. All rights reserved. ISSN 2292-0277 (Print) ISSN 2292-0285 (Online)
Atlantic Journals, BBJ Inc. 41 Katrina Dr. Fredericton, N.B. E3G 0B1 tel: 506 878-3079 fax: 506 474-2446 www.ccfccmag.com
Mise en Place
Giving Your Wine Some Breathing Room - Why Decant? The Art of Sabrage - Those Bubbly Wines
Chef Vincenzo Del Duca c.c.c. ; h.s. Windsor On.
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e've all been told to "take a deep breath and relax" at some point in our lives. It's pretty much the same way with the process of decanting wine; which I believe its good to do all the time.. Old wines need the time out of the bottle and young wines can be passed through an Aerator and allow to age a bit. This is true for red and white wines. Decanting a bottle of wine involves pouring the wine into a glass or crystal container. It's a very pretty process - watching the wine flow into a clear carafe gives you a chance to see and enjoy the color before you pour it into your glass - but it can also be very practical. There are really several reasons for a wine to be decanted - aeration and removal of sediment and the visual inspection of the quality and clarity of wine. It’s the first indication of the enjoyment process. Letting your wine "breath" is a somewhat controversial subject among wine experts. Some people believe wines get better with aeration, others think it does pretty much nothing. I have conducted many tests with my friends and clients and I can say that decanting and agitating the wine in the decanter or aerating does make a difference to any wine. Aeration is mainly used for full-bodied red wines whose aroma, flavor and complexity can improve with some breathing room. Most experts agree that just opening the bottle and letting it sit on your table does nothing because the opening in the bottle isn't large enough to let in enough oxygen. So, you can decant the wine into a carafe or pitcher... or just pour it into your glass and let it open up a bit before
drinking. While the optimum time of aeration varies depending on who you're talking to, you generally don't want your wine to sit open more than 90 minutes. 30 to 90 minutes seems to be the optimum time for aeration, according to most experts. Try it and see if you think a little breathing room helps that young, fullbodied red relax a bit. For those of you who allow your customers to bring their own wine in. Typically they bring in a “Trophy” of theirs so this is the time to upsell your service. By offering to decant and provide the Riedel appropriate glass will surely make the customer feel his wine is worthy of the best and besides you can charge and additional $5-10 for the decanter and the glasses per person aside from the corkage fee. Removing sediment in full-bodied reds is the most compelling reason for decanting. As wines age, they develop a deposit that settles to the bottom of the bottle. This mainly happens in older wines like 10-year-old Bordeaux's, Cabernets or vintage Ports. Pouring the wine slowly and steadily into a decanter separates the clear wine from the sediment (which isn't much fun to drink). We also now see this with those big “Jammy” wines that people like from the New World where little filtering is done before bottling but rather “racking” in the barrel. These heavily macerated wines will always filter themselves in the bottles after only a few years. Decanting is practical, but it's also a theatrical process that can make the experience of drinking a bottle of wine even more enjoyable. Here are some tips on decanting with flair: 1. Completely remove the capsule from the neck of the bottle so you can see the wine clearly as it passes through the neck. 2. Light a candle. Most red wines are in very dark bottles and it's difficult to see the wine pass through the neck of the bottle. A candle will give you some extra illumination and add a theatrical touch. A flashlight will work too, but it lacks some of the romance. 3. Hold the decanter (or carafe or glass pitcher) in one hand. 4. Hold the bottle in the other hand and gently pour the wine into the decanter while holding both over the candle at an angle that allows you
to see the wine pass through the neck of the bottle. 5. Pour in an uninterrupted motion until you begin to see the first signs of sediment. 6. Stop decanting once you see sediment. If there is still wine in the bottle, let the sediment settle again then repeat the decanting process until you have all the clear wine out of the bottle. 7. Enjoy! Facts to Amaze and Delight Your Friends Sediment building up in a bottle of red wine is generally a sign that the bottle is fully mature (and has been stored properly). However, some winemakers bottle without filtration. These wines may leave a deposit on the bottle in the first few years after purchase. Sediment may be the tartaric acid, the predominant acid in the grape, mixed with the coloring matter. Or it could be that tannin and coloring matter, or anthocyanins, have bonded together and gathered on the bottom of the bottle. As this process occurs, the wine becomes softer and less tannic, as well as lighter in color. Darkly coloured wines have more anthocyanins to shed and, thus, more sediment at maturity. Light coloured wines, such as Pinot Noir, rarely have much sediment. If you notice that the bottom of the bottle or the “punt” is like that of a champagne bottle and this is mostly for the sediment to have a place to go in the bottle. Continued on page 6 Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 5
Le lien Outaouais
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Chelsea, Québec, réside un chef hors de l’ordinaire. Jean-Claude Chartrand, s’est illustré en remportant le concours Créatifs de l’érable (Organisé par la Fédération des producteurs acéricoles du Québec) avec sa création : le poulet du mendigot. La recette gagnante, en compétition avec quatre autres concurrents, fut présentée le 27 août. Chef propriétaire, avec sa conjointe, Josée
Brunet Chartrand, du réputé restaurant A l’Orée du bois situé aussi à Chelsea, le plat du chef Chartrand a conquis le jury. Poulet mariné 24 heures dans de l’alcool d’érable, farci de chanterelles et foie gras, enveloppé de feuille de Lotus, couvert d’argile, cuisson à l’étouffée. Bref, une technique et créativité hors pair. La Fédération culinaire canadienne, chapitre de l’Outaouais, tiens à féliciter le Chef Chartrand pour son succès. Outaouais Link In Chelsea, Quebec, lives an extraordinary chef. Jean-Claude Chartrand, has distinguished himself by winning the competition Maple Masters (Organized by the Federation of Québec Maple Syrup Producers) with his creation: the mendigot chicken. The winning recipe, in competition with four other contenders, was presented on August 27th.
Chef/owner, with his wife Josée Brunet Chartrand, of the renowned restaurant A l’Orée du bois, also located in Chelsea, the dish from chef Chartrand won over the jury. Chicken marinated overnight in maple alcohol, stuffed with chanterelles and foie gras, wrapped in Lotus leaves, covered with clay, cooked “à l’étouffée”. In short, unmatched technique and creativity. The Canadian Culinary Federation, chapter of the Outaouais region, would like to congratulate chef Chartrand for his success. (Photo credit: Stéphanie Lachaîne Photographie Studio L: LPDZ.ca)
of the aristocratic domains. It was just after the French Revolution and the sabre was the weapon of choice of Napoleon's light cavalry (the Hussars). Napoleon's spectacular victories across all Europe gave them plenty of reason to celebrate. During these parties the cavalry would open the Champagne with their sabres. Napoleon was known to have said, "Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it." There are many stories about this tradition. One of the more spirited tales is that of Madame Clicquot, who had inherited her husband's small Champagne house at the age of 27. She used to entertain Napoleon's officers in her vineyard, and as they rode off in the early morning with their complimentary bottle of Champagne, they would open it with their
sabre to impress the rich young widow. I enjoy putting on this show at weddings and special occasions putting on my white gloves and with my polished Sabre and one determined swoop I open Champagne; Prosecco; or Cava; pretty well anything with bubbles under pressure, and if you don’t have to have a Sabre the back of a good French knife works equally as well, especially when you want to celebrate that finish of an intense service in the Kitchen.. or when our National Olympic Culinary Team is over for a fundraising event ! Well hope you all have a great Christmas and New Year Holiday. Wishes for Health and Safe Year ahead for all.. Once again thanks for your emails and if you have a question I may be able to help with ; write Chef Vincenzo at tuscanchef@gmail.com
Continued from page 5
Wine Sabrage Talk about Putting on a Show. Have you ever opened a Champagne with a Sabre? Sabrage is a technique for opening a Champagne bottle with a sabre used for ceremonial occasions. The sabre is slid along the body of the bottle to break the entire neck away from the bottle, leaving only the base of the bottle open and ready to pour. The force of the blunt side of the blade hitting the lip breaks the glass to separate the collar from the neck of the bottle. Note that one does not use the sharp side of the blade. The cork and collar remain together after separating from the neck. History This technique became popular in France when the army of Napoleon visited many
6 | Mise en Place | Spring 2014
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Executive Chef Appointed for RauDZ Creative Concepts, Kelowna
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xecutive Chef Appointed for RauDZ Creative Concepts, Kelowna Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao of RauDZ Creative Concepts, multi-award winning restaurant owners and operators, have announced the appointment of Brock Bowes as Executive Chef for RauDZ Regional Table and micro bar • bites in Kelowna, BC. Bowes comes to RauDZ Creative Concepts from wrapping up the season at Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl Winery in Oliver, BC. After graduating from the Vancouver Island University Culinary Arts program, Bowes worked under the highly regarded Chef Bernard Casavant at Fairmont Chateau Whistler and then at Chef Bernard’s own Café. He returned to Vancouver Island to work at the Hotel Grand Pacific, the Victoria Marriott Inner Harbour and Dock 503. After travelling to Europe to further expand his culinary horizons, he returned to work with Casavant at Burrowing Owl, then travelling as a culinary two-some to Manteo Resort. With Vancouver Island again calling, he returned with a stop at Pacific Restaurant before becoming the opening Executive Chef at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel before finding his way back to the Okanagan in 2013 to Burrowing Owl. In addition to being a highly creative, detail
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oriented chef with a strong Chef Brock Bowes, Chef Rod Butters work ethic and passion for and Chef Robyn Sigurdson. the culinary arts, Bowes has demonstrated his commitment to supporting local farmers and artisans as well as developing young talent in the kitchen. He worked closely with farmers in the South Okanagan and is active in the community at various events including FarmFolk CityFolk’s Okanagan Feast of Fields. Bowes will oversee RauDZ Regional Table bone, I knew he would be the perfect fit for with the philosophy of supporting local, eating both our kitchen and management team as we and drinking local, and micro bar • bites where move our company forward” enthuses Butters. more of an international Bowes will be joined in the kitchen with Chef approach to food and beverage give this tapas de Cuisine Robyn Sigurdson, and in a culinary bar it’s unique niche in the marketplace. twist of fate, this will be the third time this duo Bowes will bring new culinary ideas into the has worked side by side. mix with his background in French techniques The appointment of an Executive Chef for and his love of Asian influences with local RauDZ Creative Concepts will allow Chef ingredients. “I look forward to working with Butters time to build the brand of his indepenboth a dedicated kitchen team and world-class dent company and continue to develop projfront of house staff who obviously love their ects and pursue opportunities. Never short job that Chef Butters and Surrao have develof ideas or inspiration, Chef Butters is already oped and nurtured” states Bowes. in discussion with Uniglobe Direct Travel “I’m excited to hand over the reins of my Kelowna and luxury cruise line Crystal kitchen to Brock as I appreciate his talent and Cruises on hosting European culinary tours creativity and know he can lead our team to and finally writing his long awaited cookbook. continue to be leaders in our industry. When Chef Brock Bowes will be seen behind the he served his dish at Okanagan Feast of Fields pass at RauDZ Regional Table beginning on a chicken foot and I my tartare was on a November 3.
The next gene�at�on
G�ves a �ot. Demands ��tt�e. The pe�fect ass�stant.
www.�at�ona�canada.com
Can you answer ‘YES’ to the following questions? CCFCC Lethbridge 2014 LACL Spaghetti Supper
Do you have a deep fryer in your professional kitchen?
Submitted by President CCFCC Lethbridge Debbie Clauss, FNM
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ctober 21, 2014, the Lethbridge branchWebsite: hosted www.oiLChef.com Pas- CCFCC President of the Lethbridge branch, Chef Debbie Clauss ta Night with all proceeds to fund sending more Ju- FNM, adds: “We would like to thank Rosina for their donation of the niors to the National conference. The meal; spaghetti meatballs. Without their support for the second year we could not have with meatballs donated by Rosina, garlic toast, Caesar salad and had such a successful fundraising event.” ice cream, was a huge success that was enjoyed by over 120 people.
Can you answer ‘YES’ to the following questions? Do you have a deep fryer in your professional kitchen? Do you want to reduce your cooking oil costs by 33%?
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Email: info@oilchef.com Website: www.oiLChef.com Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 9
CCFCC Culinary Team Canada - The Luxembourg Adventure
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he Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is a tiny, tranquil country in the center of western Europe. In the late fall the rolling hills of bare deciduous forests and open farmlands are shrouded in mist and there is a distinct chill and the smell of burning fireplaces in the air as winter rapidly approaches. The scene is best be described as peaceful …. peaceful, that is, until hundreds of chefs from around the world arrive and shatter the serenity in their quest for gold at the Villeroy and Boch World Culinary Cup competition, hosted every four years by Luxembourg’s chefs’ association, the Vital Club. This contest is unquestionably one of the largest must see culinary events in the world. This past November 22nd to 26th the event witnessed the participation of thirty international teams, fifteen junior teams, thirty eight regional teams, and a very long list of individual participants. The Luxembourg event is a very important stepping stone on the way to ultimate goal of reaching the podium at the 2016 Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany. It is at the World Culinary Cup that teams get a feeling for their competition. Most countries send their best and although there
may be minor roster changes, it is likely that the same teams will be showing in Germany two years hence. Naturally, given our competitive history, Canada’s participation was expected and subsequently we were well represented at this year’s event by an Culinary Team Canada – Left to Right: John Carlo Felicella (Managenthusiastic, dedicated er), Hamid Salimian (Captain), Cameron Huley, Luis Clavel, Fumiko and talented group of Moreton (Pastry), Scott Baechler and Sylvain Cuerrier. chefs. The Canadian contingent consisted of our first day of competition. No one wants to show CCFCC Culinary Team Canada, our CCFCC on the first day for fear that the judges will hold Junior Culinary Team Canada and three regional back their high scores until later in the contest. teams from Southern Ontario. Undaunted the Canadians presented an elegant Five days of competition began with the competi- table in a manner the world has come to expect. tors and their supporters joining on even ground At the day’s conclusion, a fair and honest critique for the opening ceremonies. It was clear…every- was provided by one of the judges and the results one was friends that night but come tomorrow were announced. Canada had been awarded a morning, the gloves were off! silver medal for their efforts. As expected the competition was fierce. Each There was no time for reflection or disappointday, for four consecutive days the salon was filled ment. It was back to the hotel / kitchen to begin with cold displays preparations for the hot competition. A day later from the national the eager members of the team entered the hot teams, regional kitchen for set up and shortly thereafter began teams and individual cooking their three course meal for the judges entrants. The artistry, and 110 guests. Their menu consisted of: skill and techniques INTRODUCING First course: Sole, side stripe prawn and demonstrated were re- chorizo terrine, Steelhead salmon wrapped in markable. Meanwhile, Scallop, Smoked sablefish croquette, Pea and the hot kitchens were sunchoke mash, Salsify puree. SLICED & SHREDDED beehives of activity as Main Course: Venison loin with braised shank CHEESE junior teams cooked and natural juices, Squash and pea tart, and served their Lentil and celery bombe, Braised allium, red cabspecial menus to the bage puree, glazed carrot. daytime crowd in the THAN HALF OF Dessert: Green apple mousse, Apple tart, CraTHAN HALF ! Gastronomic Restau- bapple and cranberry semi – freddo, 1 rant and the national ALARM Cranberry compote, Yuzu caramel sauce. ZING teams demonstrated Team Canada prepared, cooked and served their cooking abilities a remarkable meal all the while conducting at dinner. Throw in themselves in a cool, collected and well organized an extensive trade manner. It was clear that problems encountered show and the overall in their previous outing in Basel, Switzerland atmosphere bordered had been addressed. While in the kitchen, they on overwhelming. looked sharp! Their food was cooked to near Team Canada was Kraft Habanero Heat Sliced and Shredded Cheese perfection and they conducted the service in a assigned to be one of deliver the Bold Heat Canadians crave. Order today to spice smooth and efficient manner. While they knew six teams presenting up your menu! For more info, visit kraftfoodservice.ca that they had done well they were forced to wait their cold table on the Technomic Canadian Consumer Flavour Trends, 2013 Continued on page 12
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Culinary Team Canada until the next day when the organizers would reveal the medal tally for the day. The following morning the Canadian Junior team was scheduled to cook their hot menu. The “senior” team temporarily put aside their scheduled activities to travel to the competition site and offer their junior counterparts their best wishes for success in their hot competition. While wishing the junior team members well, it was announced that the team had garnered enough points in the previous day’s hot kitchen to receive a gold medal. There were a few moments of celebration by the team providing added inspiration for the juniors and upon offering their best wishes the team returned to their hotel. As much as the team wanted to stay, watch the juniors and enjoy their meal, it’s all about cooking and the time for celebration was short. After experiencing the emotional roller coaster that is international competition, the team returned to their hotel not to rest or relax but prepare for cooking action stations for a hundred of the hotel’s friends and guests. After four days of intense competition, remark-
able cold tables and exceptional hot meals in the restaurant, the contest was finally complete. The following morning all of the teams joined at the congress hall for the closing ceremonies and the announcement of the winners. As had been the case four years prior, Singapore was awarded first place honours, followed by Sweden in second place and the United States in third. Excluding the top three finishers, two gold medals were presented to the teams from Norway, Iceland and Germany. Other teams had been awarded gold and silver medals for their efforts but when the scores were released, Team Canada had achieved an eighth place standing. Meanwhile the junior team had received a silver for their cold table and a gold medal for their efforts in the hot kitchen resulting in an impressive fifth place overall finish. The Junior team from Switzerland was victorious in their category followed by Sweden and Norway. That evening the Canadian teams, both senior and junior, joined together for an evening of choucroute garni, fine Luxemburgish wine and beer and each other’s friendly company in one of the local restaurants. A great way to conclude an
exciting, eventful and exhausting competition in Luxembourg. The members of Team Canada wish to offer their congratulations to the winning teams, their thanks to Vatel Club and the organizers for a job well done and to the judges for their fair and knowledge based appraisals of the competitor’s submissions. The team’s thanks goes out to the staff and management of the Guddesch Hotel Martha for their hospitality, their support and especially for their patience and the team’s special gratitude to Chef Christophe and Sous Chef Gilbert for being gracious hosts, staunch supporters and great new friends. Their contributions were greatly appreciated and their kindness unsurpassed. The hotels and restaurants emptied. Buses and trailers headed homeward to various countries in Europe and Luxair’s planes shuttled teams from the Luxembourg airport to Frankfurt and points beyond and around the world. The Culinary World Cup had ended for another four years and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg was cool, misty and tranquil once again.
Continued on page 15
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any Chefs have no doubt put hundreds of Shrimp Rings through the pass the past weeks. It is a holiday tradition for Canada. Perhaps some who have placed this dish on their menus will have gone the extra distance to be sure to use sustainable provisioning for the dish, utilizing the individually fresh frozen or block frozen Canadian domestic cold water shrimp. Moving through the end of the holiday period, diners will soon be aware of a need to begin dealing with some of the effects of their winter diets and reduction in outdoor activities which many face in wintertime. Many patrons will begin slimming and other dietary changes as part of their own New Year’s resolutions. They will want to select entrees and other protein courses that are leaner, less fatty than red meats, and some will be seeking the high omega-3 oil content provided by some popular, seasonal seafood. Some will adopt a more earth-friendly desire to select fresh, wholesome and sustainable choices at the restaurant. The successful Chef will want to be prepared to harmonize with their patrons’ desires, and offer lean and fat seafood protein choices that are fresh whenever possible, and which are taken from the sustainable Canadian fisheries whenever they can. When preparing the menus for the coming year, most Chefs will seek those proteins which will be available in high quality and with good, sufficient supply. Scarcity will naturally increase food cost, and reduce margins. Profits are maximized when all menu dishes are continuously available to satisfy the diners. Awareness of fishery health makes it easy for the Chef to plan menus and develop stellar recipes that will have the front of the house filled with returning customers during service. Seasonal availability and fishery health can be easily researched on the internet by most Chefs, and will offer resources to adapt menus as changes occur from year to year. This allows the Chef to change menus and develop new, exciting recipes well in advance and to develop sustainable, ethical provisioning of these delightful protein ingredients. Fresh ingredients are generally preferred by Chefs and their patrons in seafood dishes, and modern transport makes this possible in many regions of the country. Provisioning with fresh seafood
should be conducted on a just in time basis, and only the minimal day or two buffer inventory should be kept on hand. Frozen ingredients offer some flexibility, yet, there is nothing worse than increasing food costs when, following thawing, the ingredient is found to be unusable. For those with proximity to the coastal seafood markets, marketing in person is often a wonderful choice, allowing selection of menu specials when a prized fish is in stock in good quality and quantity. Both Agriculture & Agri-Foods Canada and Fisheries & Oceans Canada provide management and regulation to the entire harvest and supply chain, allowing Chefs to be certain of the provenance of the seafood they buy. The Vancouver Aquarium and SeaChoice, both provide easy to understand guides about fishery health. It is important to be aware of the fishing methods employed, and these will appear on the source labeling of the seafood. Sometimes, a particular fishing method places the fishery at risk, and fish harvested by those methods can increase harm. For example, swordfish harvested by the pelagic longline has fallen into the undesirable class due to bycatch problems, including impact on sea bird and sea turtle populations, but, harpoon harvested swordfish is still recommended. Seasonal information is available in any of many various websites and in culinary textbooks dealing with proteins and seafood. This information, cross-referenced by the Chef against the fishery health and sustainability recommendations, forms the guide for menu planning through the coming seasons. Where problems exist, or when greater economies and restaurant performance can be had, annual or more frequent review of menus and provisioning will provide the Chef with the capacity to provide diners with winning, top notch seafood dishes that will keep them returning to the restaurant. At times, substitutions will be desirable. Atlantic Cod fisheries are depleted, but Farmed Atlantic Cod also is in good supply. Caviar appetizers, also, can be a good choice for a substitution, as the Canadian farmed Osetra will be well received by diners. Seafood from well managed Canadian fisheries will frequently be the best choice for the Chef.
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‘‘ Rich , meaty flavour, like you ’d expect from a scratch brown sauce .’’ CHEF BRIAN JUPITER The Frontier Chicago, IL
©2014 Unilever Food Solutions. Trade-mark owned or used under license by Unilever Food Solutions, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3R2.
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WITH FRESH MOZZARELLA! At Saputo, we pride ourselves on the dedicated craftsmanship of our expert cheese-makers. The result is a cheese of unparalleled quality and taste. Few cheeses offer such versatility in the kitchen as does fresh Mozzarella! A soft cheese with a delicate creamy taste, it is the ideal cheese for Caprese salads and sandwiches, tossed in hot pasta or melted on a pizza. Quick and easy to prepare, it marries well with a multitude of ingredients. Bring them to your table with fresh Mozzarella and tantalize their tastebuds with every bite!
Caprese Style Sausage Sandwich Yield: 1 sandwich
Preparation: 15 minutes
1 mild Italian sausage Olive oil, to taste 5 mL (1 tbsp) balsamic vinegar 125 mL (1/2 cup) wild arugula 5 mL (1 tsp) balsamic vinegar 1 ciabatta roll, halved and toasted 1 small ripe tomato, sliced 3 slices of Saputo Mozzarina Mediterraneo Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Cooking: 25 minutes
In a saucepan, blanch the sausage in boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain and reserve. In a skillet, sautĂŠ the onion in a little oil until caramelized. Add the first amount of vinegar and cook over medium heat until evaporated. Set aside. In a skillet, cook the sausage in a little oil, just to brown. Set aside. In a bowl, toss the arugula with a little oil, the second amount of vinegar, the salt and pepper. Place on the bottom half of the toasted roll and arrange the tomato and Mozzarina Mediterraneo slices on top. Cut the sausage in half lengthwise and place on top of the cheese. Garnish with caramelized onions and close the sandwich.
For more information on this product, contact your Saputo Foodservice Representative.
www.saputofoodservice.ca
Fall 2013 | Mise en Place | 17
Product Spotlight
Convotherm combi oven
C
onvotherm, a subsidiary of Manitowoc Foodservice, has been manufacturing combi oven steamers for almost 40 years. Based in Eglfing Germany, Convotherm are distributed by well-known sister company Garland Canada. Convotherm over the years has provided leading edge technology design such as their “closed drain system” which traps heat and steam within the cavity making it one of the most efficient combi oven steamers on the market. With additional innovations such as the “disappearing door” which allows the door to slide out of the way alongside the oven, it is no wonder Convotherm has provided further industry leading designs with the launch of their new Convotherm 4 combi oven steamer. Using its roots with the “closed drain system”, Convotherm has completely redesigned the entire platform in the new Convotherm 4. In doing so, the Convotherm 4 won three very prestigious design awards in 2014. First was the IT award for their new EasyTouch controls – intuitive and simple to use. They were in good company with previous winners such as Microsoft and American Express. Convotherm 4 was also winner of the internation-
ally acclaimed Red Dot Design award. Convotherm was presented this award in front of 1,200 international guests at their 2014 Red Dot design awards in Essen Germany. Lastly the Convotherm 4 won the 2014 IF design award, one of the world’s most important design awards demonstrated from over 20,000 applicants in over 50 countries. Aside from design, the Convotherm 4 performs
better than ever perfecting things such as even baking. With the new “BakePro” feature and its 5 speed auto reversing fan, the Convotherm 4 provides perfectly even browning in full load from top to bottom, corner to corner. Chef ’s worldwide have come to know and trust Convotherms performance and will be even more pleased with the selection of two control panels, EasyTouch for the chef who wishes to set it and forget it and the EasyDial for the chef wishing to stay in control during the cooking operation. Cleaning is also a breeze with the new automatic washing system, employing liquid detergent that is automatically dispensed at the push of a button. There is no requirement to add chemicals or detergents by hand and the new Convotherm 4 uses 35% less detergent, water and electricity than previous models. Convotherm has an established network of demonstration kitchens throughout Canada and provides demonstrations of the Convotherm 4 by contacting Garland Canada. The new Convotherm 4 is truly “Designed Around You”. For further information visit www.convotherm.com
Vancouver Chef Pens Autobiography
T
ony Burrows has spent his life as an executive hotelier and chef, working all over the world. His life changed in 2012, when he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease. As he lost control of his body, and even more frustrating, the ability to communicate clearly, life completely changed. Burrows has shared his colorful career and experiences in a new book, From a Hotelier to Parkinson's Disease, offering advice to anyone interested in adventuring across the world as a chef and support for those struggling with the disease. After becoming a chef, he rose through the ranks within his hotel chain and became a manager, working at resorts around the world, including exotic locales such as Tahiti, Bora Bora, Fiji and Egypt. But his passion for cooking was never taken off the back burner. In a recent interview, Burrows says: "This Parkinson's disease has most certainly changed my outlook on life," he said. "It has
18 | Mise en Place | Winter 2015
Atrophy, which gives people between three and six years to live, "but despite this, I remain as positive as ever and have every intention of beating the odds and living to the ripe old age of 90." The book became available Amazon Dec. 10. A portion of the proceeds from book sales will be donated to the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson's Research. The book is available on Amazon: ISBN-10: 1941736165 Burrows' next book, The Journeys, A Positive Approach to Living with Parkinson's Disease, is expected to hit the shelves in May. For more information, visit www.tonyburrows.net.
made me think so much more positively that very little fazes me these days. Recently, he found out that his Parkinson's diagnosis may change to Multiple System
In the Fall 2014 edition of Mise en Place, the name of the family run oyster farm in Saputo Junior National Exchange article was misspelled. It should have been Holliwood not Hollywood as was printed. We regret the error.
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DOWN FOODSERVICE IS A COMPETITIVE BUSINESS. STAYING ON TOP MEANS KEEPING ON TOP OF THE LATEST TRENDS, PRODUCTS, PLEASURES, NETWORKS, AND INFLUENCERS. SO GET OUT OF THE KITCHEN AND COME TO THE SHOW!
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KEEP THINGS COOKING. Direct Energy Centre 100 Princes’ Blvd Exhibition Place, Toronto www.restaurantshow.ca 20 | Mise en Place | Winter 2015
MARCH 1-3, 2015
A Bit about a Branch
Members of the Canadian Federation of Chefs de Cuisine (CFCC) Chef Marcel Stevens being presented with the 1984 New Brunswick discuss the agenda of a recent Eastern Conference held at Charlotte- Chef of the Year by then sponsor Wayne Jagoe of Judson Foods. Also town Hotel. Among topics discussed were the setting up of a CFCC presenting the award is the 1981 recipient, Tasos Markides. branch in Charlottetown as well as educational aspects of cooking. Left, back row, Joe Lawrence, CFCC member; Paula Richard, CFCC members; Tasos Markides, secretary of the NB Branch of the CFCC; Marcel Stevens, president of the N.B. branch; Clay Burrill, president of the Maritime Association; and Fred Briggs, treasurer of the Maritime Association. Front row; Marcel Beaulieu, national treasurer of the CFCC; Georges A. Chauvet, Eastern Vice-president of the CFCC; and Rudolphe Eyrauch, national secretary of the CFCC. Missing from the photo is federation member, Alex Clavel.
M
oncton lies at the physical centre of the Maritime Provinces and has earned the nickname "Hub City" because of its central location and also because Moncton has historically been the railway and land transportation hub for the Maritimes. Even though the Moncton area was initially settled in 1733, Moncton is thought to have been officially founded in 1766 with the coming of Pennsylvania Dutch immigrants from Philadelphia. Originally an agricultural settlement, Moncton was not incorporated until 1855 and named for Lieutenant Colonel Robert Monckton, the British officer who had seized neighboring Fort Beauséjour one hundred years earlier A significant wooden shipbuilding industry had developed in the community by the mid-1840s, allowing for the local incorporation in 1855, but the shipbuilding economy collapsed in the 1860s, causing the town to subsequently lose its civic charter in 1862. Moncton
regained its charter in 1875 after the community's economy rebounded, mainly due to a growing railway industry. In 1871, the Intercolonial Railway of Canada had elected Moncton to be its headquarters and the city remained a railroad town for more than a century until the shutdown of the Canadian National Railway shops in the late 1980s. Although the economy of Moncton was traumatized twice—by the collapse of the shipbuilding industry in the 1860s and by the closure of the CNR locomotive shops in the 1980s—the city was able to rebound strongly on both occasions. At present, the city's economy is stable and diversified, primarily based on its traditional transportation, distribution, retailing, and commercial heritage, but also supplemented by strength in the educational, healthcare, financial, information technology,
International judges attending Annual APCE Culinary competition in Moncton – 2000. Left to right: Chef John Higgins from Toronto; Chef Stefan Czapalay from PEI and Chef Sturla Birgisson (Icelandic Chef of the Year 1995-1996 and 5th place Bocuse D’Or 1999).
and insurance sectors. The strength of the economy has received national recognition and the local unemployment rate is consistently less than the national average. Moncton's population jumped to 69,074 in 2011 an increase of 7.7 per cent from 64, 130 in 2006. According to Statistics Canada this is after a decades-long trend of a declining population provincially. It is now considered one of the country's fastest growing cities. Its storied past is brought to life in its many cultural institutions and museums, from the Acadian Museum to Le Centre Culturel Aberdeen. It boasts the “Top Intelligent Community of the Year” award in 2009 and is home to Université de Moncton, Crandall University and Oulton College. The C.C.F.C.C. Moncton branch was formed in 1972 with Tasos Markides as its first president. The branch has too experienced its membership decline but is on a rebound with an energetic board consisting of: • Lana Manuge, President • Nick Athens, Secretary • Roy Butterworth, Treasurer Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 21
Continued on page 23
22 | Mise en Place | Winter 2015
A Cook’s Tale Hard Work Ethic By Avi Sternberg
T
he entrance and hallways of Kobayahisan’s house gave me the same comforting chill I feel when I walk onward through a quiet trail in a spruce filled forest. Life and confidence emanated from each piece of stem of color, furniture and décor of her house. The woman herself was a seasoned artist of many traits and the strength of the grey streaks lining her dark black hair displayed the healthy soil and roots lighting her spirit. Kobayahsi-san was introduced to me by the international center to help tutor me with basic Japanese household cooking. After several weeks of meeting at her house for cooking lessons she handed me a shovel and instructions on how to clear a path through the deep trenches of packed ice and cultural confusion that encircled my life. One day in the thick of January, I sat down with her at her small traditional wood table. We discussed the technique for sharpening my knife which we covered the week before. She inquired on how things were going with my training at Chitosekan, the traditional Japanese Inn located in Northern Japan. I expressed my frustration with the reality that I was not being shown a large number of new things in the kitchen such as preparing and handling fish. I asked her to teach me these things. She then asked me how my Japanese studies were going. I said that my speaking ability was moving forward, but I had given up on my reading comprehension. At that point her face took on a concerned and sour look, as though I just smudged mud across her brow. The skin of her forehead folded into a cringe. She began to discuss the great importance Japanese characters and language play in the cooking of Japanese cuisine. For example, a chef is considered very intelligent and to have a vast knowledge of Japanese food and culture simply by the descriptions and titles they use to label their dish. Starting with Japanese calligraphy, and covering various disciplines such as haiku, and cookbooks, Kobayashi-san explained to me that I am pretty much a fool to believe reading and writing is not necessary to learn during a chef ’s training. My personal effort in my own training became the next topic of this not so fruitful discussion. She said people don’t just hand you a platter plentiful with new cooking techniques and knowledge. To become a good chef and well-versed in Japanese culture, effort and effort alone is the only real thing that a person needs
to reach his goals. Of course some people have a natural gift, but at some point even they have to work hard to reach new levels of cooking proficiency. Furthermore, Japanese chefs steal secrets from their superior in order to learn new cooking techniques. The superior does not explain something in detail unless asked. Often when I ran across the kitchen I would glance over at a fellow chef simply to get a glimpse of a new technique. If I didn’t care or wish to move forward and grow as a cook I would remain indifferent to what the chefs around me were doing. The wish to become a cook comes from within. The personal effort, dedication and motivation needed to become a Japanese chef must come from your heart. Kobayashi-san is a professional in making traditional lacquer ware; also called “Japan”. She told me her own story about her own training to become an artist. When she was in her teens she aspired to enter university to study the arts. Her parents objected to her dream and requested she go to a vocational school for the training of housewives. She fought them at every step. Her father told her that he would not help her in any way financially and stopped communicating with her for many months. She took on several part-time jobs and eventually entered the school. During her studies her parents objected less and less and eventually warmed to the idea of the career she had chosen. Upon graduation she found a mentor to whom she requested to apprentice. She worked very hard as an apprentice and slowly gained the skill and knowledge that would lead her to become a recognized artist in the profession. After finishing her story she said no matter how much opposition she encountered, or how many times she felt inferior to others, she never once flinched and turned away from what she set out to do. The reason for this was that she was doing this for herself and nobody else. Her goal was for her personal growth as an individual and a lacquer artist. To even think that you should cower to a rivalry or parental opposition is absurd. That is why people must value with great importance the type of spirit and effort they give towards overcoming their personal obstacles in order to reach their goal. I struggled often to fight my tendency of being complacent. From the time I began my train-
ing at Chitosekan until now I often wish for things to come easily and without me having to put in the energy and effort to find a way to understand how to do something. After my discussion with Kobayashi-san I began to realize that I had given up trying. My superior at Chitosekan had once said that the moment somebody begins to dislike what he is doing and stops trying, their skill and knowledge in a sense begin to go backward or stay still from that point forward. The point here is that if you stop trying to find a way to gain new knowledge and new skill, you no longer have the initiative to grow. This pattern can be seen as being restrictive to the training effort, but in fact at times when I have given up, my growth as a person and my process of maturing also comes to a halt. I came to appreciate that the Japanese value not a person’s ability, but instead the spirit in their work ethic. It is a combination of awarding people for both their talent and work ethic. It is the spirit of Ganbaru that people really value. Ganbaru means to always try your best. Story adapted from “Itamae: My Life In Front of the Cutting Board” by Avi Sternberg. Photograph by Mike Ambach. Mark your calendars CCFCC
2015 National Convention May 26 – 31 at the Sheration St.John’s
The 52nd National Convention will be held in St. John’s, Newfoundland – looking forward to the trends and technologies leading the culinary profession into the decade. For more details visit www.ccfcc.ca/conference/ Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 23
CCFCC Culinary Team Canada - The Luxembourg Adventure
Cold Show.
Fumiko and Mickey on Cold Show day.
Luis and JC Cold show plating.
The guys setting up for glazing.
24 | Mise en Place | Winter 2015
Hamid and Cam discussing plating.
CCFCC Culinary Team Canada - The Luxembourg Adventure
Jr Culinary Team Canada win silver and gold at Expogast Niagara College’s Canadian Food and Wine Institute
Dominique learning from Captain Hamid.
Chef Donald and Chef James supporting the team on hot show day.
Chef Bruno inspecting dishes.
Students and support washing scallops the morning of hot show. Winter 2015 | Mise en Place | 25
Junior Culinary Team Canada wins gold medal in Luxembourg
Courtesy of www.ncjrculinaryteamcanada.ca
Junior Culinary Team Canada is proving that they have the recipe for success on the world stage. On Nov. 26, 2014, the team – comprised of current students and recent graduates from Niagara College’s Canadian Food and Wine Institute – learned it had achieved a gold medal for the competition’s hot program at the Expogast Villeroy and Boch Culinary World Cup 2014. The Culinary World Cup was held in Luxembourg from Nov. 22-26. There, the team competed against the top junior culinary teams in the world, representing 14 other countries, in two categories: a cold program and a hot program. News of the team’s gold medal for the hot program was announced just days after the team received a silver medal for its performance in the competition’s cold program. “We stood up against the rest of the world and came out shining,” said team manager Craig Youdale, dean of the Canadian Food and Wine Institute, who noted the high level of intensity and professionalism from other teams at the competition. “We have almost every aspect of our culinary division represented here in
Luxembourg – students from the apprenticeship system, our one- and two-year programs, and even our Culinary Innovation and Food Technology program. This achievement is a real testament to the training they receive at the Canadian Food and Wine Institute.” Youdale said he was proud of the team and was excited about the impact the results will have on the team members in the future, particularly on a confidence level. “Now that they’ve been able to step up and see what they can do, they will carry that forward,” he said. “This will be on their resume for the rest of their lives and resonate with them for their whole career.” “This is a very exciting day for Niagara College and an extraordinary day for our students. We’re all very proud,” said college president Dan Patterson who applauded the efforts of the team, the leadership of CFWI dean Craig Youdale, and the mentorship provided by chef professor coaches including Avi Hollo and Olaf Mertens. “When we talk about an unparalleled student experience at Niagara College, this was manifested in many ways at this world culinary championship,” said Patterson. “The results speak to the incredible quality of our students,
WELCOME TO THE FEDERATION
Federation Federation Federation Federation Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior
BIENVENUE À LA FÉDÉRATION Since the last issue of Mise en Place the following new members have joined our ranks and we look forward to their participation in Branch activities and enhancing their respective career paths. Depuis la dernière édition de Mise en Place, les nouveaux membres suivants se comptent parmi nous et nous anticipons leur participation aux activités du chapitre et à l’amélioration de leurs plans de carrière respectifs. FEDERATION MEMBERS MEMBRES DE LA FÉDÉRATION Branch/Chapitre Name/Nom
Corporate Corporate Corporate Federation Federation Federation Federation Federation Federation
Nat CORP Andrea D. Donida Nat CORP Chris Koehler Nat CORP Debbie Young SKN Amedeo Vallati REG David L. Straub EDM David A. Whitaker EDM James R. Szutarski CAL Joana Dimson EDM Khalid Laouimri
CAL Om P. Chaudhary CAL Oodithnarain Kallaram EDM Thusitha L.M. Kolugala TOR Vikas Wankhade EDM Alyssa M. Holder EDM Ama Aidoo MCT André Foulem REG Andrea L. Stairs EDM Anthony D. Guy TOR Bethany J. Miller EDM Brandy Rabesca EDM Brendan S. Finnigan MSK Charleen A. Farrugia EDM Chelsea Levins EDM Christine L. McLean MSK Dave Foster MCT Diane L. Godin MCT Erica Rousselle MCT Francis Doucet Boudreau EDM Genevieve S. Mireau MSK Hayley MacLeod CAL Jack Z.W. Huang MCT Jessica Savoie-Gionet EDM Jethro A. Nueva MCT Jocelyn Gionet MSK Judith Gutter
and the learning experiences that they have received at Niagara College, and it puts our Canadian Food and Wine Institute on the world stage.” This is the first international competition for Junior Culinary Team Canada. The team gained its title in a victory over culinary teams from Humber and Holland Colleges at The Canadian Culinary Federation of Chefs and Cooks (CCFCC), Junior Culinary Team Selection Competition in October, 2013. In addition to representing Canada at international competitions for three years, it won the distinction of representing Canada at the 2016 World Culinary Olympics in Germany. Members of Junior Culinary Team Canada include captain Iain Dawson (Coldwater/St. Catharines); lead members Daniella Germond (St. Catharines), David Ross (Peterborough), and Megan Proper (Burford); alternate lead member Rebekka Schmitt (Silverdale); and support team members Katrina Young (Hamilton), Scott McInerney (Peterborough/ St. Catharines), Trevor Littlejohn (Paisley), Ben Lillico (Waterloo) and Jeremy Gilligan (St. Catharines).
Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Junior Memb at Large
EDM Kevin Imlay EDM Kyle E. Hebert EDM Lanaya R. Hooper EDM Landen G. Swick EDM Leland R. Faulder MSK Marisol A. Madrid EDM Michelle M. McDonald EDM Naozad Arjani TOR Nicole L. Bickle EDM Rachel M. Grandjambe MSK Robert T. Perry EDM Sam McAra MSK Samantha P. Vernon EDM Shawn A. Patterson EDM Shaydon Page EDM Spencer M. Berge MCT Sylvette Roussel MCT Sylvie Duguay EDM Tam I. Ngo EDM Tamara M. Solon TOR Ty W. Thomson EDM Ungjae (Ted) Choo MCT Yannick Haché EDM Yiyuan Wang REG Allen P. Rajan
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