Performance in Motion Magazine Vol. 19 No. 1 by Performance Improvements

MAGAZINE • VOL.

19 NO.

1 • CANADA

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PERFORMANCE DIRECTORY Late Model, Classic & Muscle Cars

E VERYB O DY ’ S AUTO M OTIVE MAGA ZINE

The Best Garage in Town

Published Oddly VOL.18 NO.4

Publisher Editor Writer Proofreader

Bob McJannett Rob McJannett Bonnie Staring Carol “Spike” LaVigne

Contributors Steve Ager Kenny Kroeker Mark Rogerson Jim Madigan Dave Thomas

Tom Hough

FEATURES Editorial............................................................................. Bob McJannett

K&N Cabin Air Filters ...........................................................Steve Ager

How To Keep Mice Out Of Your Vehicle.........Alan Maconald

519-753-9722 14 Dundas St. E, Brantford, Ont. N3R 1R5

Aeromotive Gen II Stealth Fuel Tanks............ Rob McJannett 11 What size carburetor for my engine?.........................Steve Ager 12 Top 10 EFI Tech Tips..................................................................Tom Kise 15 Speed Parts........................................................................................ Len Sly 18 AVS2 Carbs...................................................................... Rob McJannett 20 ELTA & the Big Go Drags...........................................Mark Rogerson 16 Book Review: LS GEN IV ENGINES ...................................... Len Sly 2 5 Unreluctant Passenger............................................. Bonnie Staring 30

ON THE COVER: Kenny Kroeker captured the hedquarters of the Disciples of Speed before hauling ass at the ELTA Go Big Drags!

MOVING? Please let us know! Email both your old and new address to: info@performanceimprovements.com Performance in Motion Publications, 87 Advance Road, Toronto, ON M8Z 2S6 • Phone: 416-259-3678 PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40609642 • Canada Post: Please return undeliverable magazines to: 87 Advance Road, Toronto, ON M8Z 2S6 PERFORMANCE IN MOTION is published irregularly. Circulation is 30,000+ (ISSN 1703-8421) Performance in Motion Copyright ©2018 by Performance In Motion Publishing. 87 Advance Road, Toronto, ON M8Z 2S6. Be good to the environment, recycle this magazine – give it to your friends! We respect your privacy, and do not sell our mailing list. If you enjoy our magazine, be sure to let us know! All opinions are those of our writers, (the usual gang of idiots) most of whom think gas fumes are acceptable as aftershave. The information presented is via said gas sniffers from which there can be no responsibility by the Publishers as to legality, completeness and accuracy. Working on automobiles is inherently dangerous. Performance Improvements is not liable for injury or damage due to incorrect installation or use of their products. All products are sold with the understanding that the safe and proper installation and use of the products is the customer’s responsibility. Follow factory workshop manual procedures and instructions. Some tasks will require professional advice or services which Performance Improvements cannot provide.

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Editorial

Photo by Daniel Joseph Petty from Pexels

matter what you want to call it, the “new” USMCA, NAFTA 2.0, or MWOTH (My way or the highway) agreement will have interesting consequences for us “car guys and girls.” Our negotiators, particularly Chrystia Freeland, spent 13 months wrangling with an untenable adversary who was determined to get their way. In the end, we appear to have achieved most of the concessions that were possible. The dairy access that the dairy farmers don’t want or like can be deflected if we all remember to BUY CANADIAN! So, what does this mean to the enthusiast, two things will affect us. The U.S. has not removed the tariffs on steel or aluminum, so products that have a large portion of either of those two in them will cause the manufacturer to require a price increase. But it is the U.S. putting tariffs on us, why would the American manufacturers have to worry? Surprisingly, a fair amount of our steel and aluminum goes south to be turned into products that will eventually end up on the performance retailers’ shelves. If the cost of their major component increases 20 to 25%, a retail price increase will follow. In fact, we are seeing price increases coming from major brands now. So will the U.S go elsewhere for these materials? Guess who the largest steel producer is, China. Since our friends in the south are getting involved in a trade war with them, their costs will increase too. Plus the freight to get steel across the big pond will be substantially more than it was to get it from Canada.

However, price increases will affect everyone, not just Canada, so our real hope is our friends in the U.S. realize just what is causing them to have to pay more for not only performance parts but refrigerators, stoves, dishwashers, cars, etc. Virtually everything will go up unless there is a change in what is coming. After all, if our 36 million are affected, so will their 325 million. This is really an opportunity to make America poor again. So, buy Canadian first, support Canadian companies with Canadian employees, and support international companies who are hiring Canadians. Caveat: I am writing this two days after the “agreement in principle” was announced. I have not read the 240+ pages, nor will I ever, that’s a job for someone more knowledgeable than I. Of course, either Parliament, Congress or the Mexican Senate could throw a wrench in the spokes by not approving it. Then what?

bob@performanceimprovements.com

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T HE FU T URE OF C A RBURE T ION “When compared to the Holley, it’s not even in the same league – the AVS2 out performs it easily!” Brian Hosenfeld, 1966 Chevy Nova with a 408 SBC

AVS2 HAS HUGE BENEFITS!

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The Edelbrock AVS2 Series features annular flow primary boosters with a new calibration for improved off idle and cruising. The annular flow booster design also delivers improved fuel atomization to eliminate flat spots that can be encountered during idle to full throttle transitions. Best of all, the AVS2 has a starting price of $317.95! Available at all Performance Improvements Locations

Clean the Air You Breathe with K&N Washable and Reusable Cabin Air Filters Story by Steve Ager • Photos courtesy of K&N

rotecting the engine in your vehicle is vitally important. Without it, you are going nowhere, fast. What if we told you there was something more important to protect than your engine? That would be you, your friends, and your family. Obviously, you need to wear seat belts and your car probably already has a multitude of airbags, but there is something else that is being incorporated into more and more modern vehicles for the health of the occupants. We are talking about cabin air filters. The air that you breathe is as important as the air your engine breathes, right? We put so much emphasis on changing your engine air filter but when was the last time you thought about your cabin air filter? Why are K&N washable cabin air filters important? Luckily, companies have started to realize the importance of these Cabin Air Filters and have begun making better filters to replace the OE paper versions to help clean the air we breathe. One of those companies is K&N Engineering. K&N has been in business since 1969 and they know a thing or two about automotive air filtration. Their new washable and reusable cabin air filters

are a breath of fresh air (literally). Having made washable and reusable replacement engine air filters for decades, K&N making cabin air filters is a no-brainer. What are K&N washable cabin air filters made of? K&N’s cabin air filters are made of an innovative synthetic filtration media sandwiched between two layers of epoxy coated aluminum for rigidity and durability. The filter is also surrounded by a urethane frame for an OE level of fitment. K&N test fits each filter to ensure it will fit comfortably in the stock cabin air filter housing. The K&N cabin air filters go beyond just a dry synthetic media. The media is coated in a biodegradable formula that adds an electrostatic charge to the filter. This helps to grab and hold on to particles as they pass through the filter so you don’t breathe them in. These particles include mould, mildew, fungus, allergens, bacteria, spores, and other debris that might make its way into the cabin of your car. When do K&N washable cabin air filters need cleaning? When it is time to clean the filter, which K&N recommends doing every 12 months

or 12,000 miles (19312 kilometres), all you have to do is remove the filter from the housing, which is typically located under the hood or under the dash, and spray it with K&N’s cabin air filter cleaner. Then rinse it clean, spray it with the refresher spray and reinstall it. That is a much better system than throwing it away and buying a new one every year. So even at the slightly higher cost of a K&N cabin air filter, you will be saving money in the long run. And if you are worried about the filter wearing out after a couple of cleaning cycles, K&N guarantees the filter will last for 10 years or 100,000 miles (160,934 kilometres). So if you haven’t checked your cabin air filter in a while, it might be worth it to invest in a K&N washable and reusable cabin air filter. You don’t know what kinds of things you could be breathing in every time you take your car for a drive. Where to buy K&N washable cabin air filters in Canada? K&N washable and reusable cabin air filters are available in Canada at all Performance Improvements Locations or online at PerformanceImprovements.com.

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How To Keep Mice Out Of Your Vehicle Story by Alan MacDonald HOW TO KEEP RODENTS OUT OF STORED CARS Mice are known to crawl into vents inside vehicles, where they can die and fill a car with stench in the process. Mice also eat away at various wires, tubes and circuitry under the hood. Consequently, if you do nothing to fight a mice infestation in your car, you run the risk of having future performance issues with the vehicle. People often ask how to keep mice out of vehicles. When you Google the phrase “how to get rid of mice in car” dozens of pages come up that offer impractical advice such as spraying hot sauce on the doors of your car, or putting cedarwood, dog hair, human hair, or peppermint oil inside. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to fill my car with human hair! The problem of having a mouse in your car is no laughing matter. This article covers the basics of how to get rid of a mouse in your car, as well as how to keep mice out of your car engine, air filter, air vents and passenger space. RISKS FROM RODENTS Rodent infestation carries with it risks to both your vehicle and health. Some damage from mice, rats and other mammals will be cosmetic, but when animals chew through electrical system wiring or nest in key mechanical areas, the damage may get in the way of a vehicle’s safe operation. A rodent infestation also places you at risk for diseases including the Hantavirus. Carried by several rodents, including the deer mouse, white-footed mouse, rice rat and cotton rat in North America, the Hantavirus causes Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome in humans. The Hantavirus is often found in rodent droppings or nests. This rare disease is fatal in about 50 percent of cases. Symptoms include fever, muscle aches and fatigue and appear one to five weeks after exposure.

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HOW DO MICE GET IN CARS? Though your car might seem protected when you lock it and turn on the alarm, mice have a way of getting into all types of vehicles. Due to the small size of mice, it’s easy for them to squeeze through openings smaller than a dime. In most cases, they’ll crawl up from under the engine and make their way to other areas once inside. The following are among the most common entry points that mice will use to access a car: Vents, Holes around cables, Pedal shafts & Steering columns. WHAT SEASON DO MICE SEEK SHELTER IN CARS? Mice are active year-round, but their behaviours vary according to the season. In the summertime, they’re often going in and out of buildings in search of food, water, and nesting materials and spaces. During winter, they’re more likely to spend more time indoors. As a nocturnal creature, mice are primarily active from dusk till dawn, when few people or animals are likely to see them. Since it’s in the nature of mice to look for shelter from cold and rain, they’re likeliest to nest in cars during winter. HOW TO PREVENT MICE FROM COMING INTO YOUR CAR ELECTRONICALLY The Mouse Blocker is a 12 Volt powered device releasing a proprietary ultrahigh frequency noise to deter mice from nesting in your automobile. The Mouse Blocker is designed to be stable in this harsh environment of well below zero temperatures in Canada. The Mouse Blocker units run off a vehicle’s 12V battery and draw only as much power as an LCD clock. The Mouse Blocker can run for months in a vehicle without draining the battery. The Mouse Blocker is perfect for all vehicles with a current mouse problem or stored indoors, such as motorcycles, hot rods and dirt bikes.

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MOUSE BLOCKER CLASSIC The MouseBlocker Pro is the most advanced rodent deterrent available for your vehicle. The Mouse Blocker is a 12 Volt powered device releasing an ultrahigh frequency noise (that sounds like a jackhammer to humans) to deter mice from nesting inside your automobile. The Mouse Blocker is designed to protect automobiles from clogged or blocked interior areas, which can ultimately result in severe damage to your vehicle. The Mouse Blocker runs exclusively off a vehicle’s 12V battery or anywhere with a 12V power supply so you don’t have to worry about leaking flashlight batteries or extension cords.

MOUSE BLOCKER PRO CANADA The Mouse Blocker is the worlds first ultrasonic mouse deterrent dedicated to automobiles. The MouseBlocker Pro takes everything great about the Original MouseBlocker and makes it better. The Powerful Ultrasonic Sounds emitted from this unit are now adjustable and now even louder than the Original. This new unit also adds a new deterrent in the form of 2 Bright Strobing LED lights simply adding another feature the rodents do not like in our attempt to make the area very uncomfortable for the rodents to nest.

PLUG-IN MOUSE BLOCKER PRO The MouseBlocker Plug-In Pro Model is our recommendation for long term storage situations (longer than 2 weeks) where you want the most power and protection available. This unit is trusted by 100’s of RV and Camper dealers throughout North America and installs very easy. This “Plug-In” MouseBlocker PRO Model can easily be installed virtually anywhere now. Plugs into any 110v power outlet or extension cord. Works great when protecting items that do not have a 12V battery but power is nearby.

ANTI-RODENT TAPE CANADA MouseBlocker Anti-Rodent Insulated Repair Tape is made with encapsulated Capsaicin from Hot Chile Peppers. This repair tape is a great addition to the already potent rodent protection our Original 12V MouseBlocker provides however it protects in a little different way by putting a barrier between the rodents teeth and the sensitive vehicle wiring. Use the MouseBlocker Insulated Repair Tape to protect your wiring after making a repair or protect the entire harness.

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AEROMOTIVE GEN II STEALTH FUEL TANKS

The Next Generation of Stealth Tanks

Story by Rob McJannett

eromotive, the leader in fuel technology, has brought out their line of Gen II fuel tanks. These tanks are the solution to converting your OE fuel system to suit today’s technology. The Gen II will modernize your classic muscle car to accept electronic fuel injection systems, GM LS engine swaps and today’s high-performance carburetors. Gen II tanks are available with either a 200 lph or a 340 lph high flow super quiet fuel pump. The 200 lph will support up to 750HP, while the 340 lph will support a 1000 HP depending on the type of fuel delivery system on your vehicle.

Gen II tanks are plug and play, there is no assembly necessary; they fit in the original location, accept the original tank mounting straps, etc. Each tank comes with the fuel pump of your choice, baffle, fuel level sending unit, and anything extra necessary to make an easy installation. Unique to these tanks is the Aeromotive Phantom technology that controls the fuel around the pump ensuring no fuel starvation during extreme driving conditions.

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Models currently available • CHEVY II 1962-1967 • MUSTANG 1964-1972 • NOVA 1968-1979 • SKYLARK/CUTLASS 1964-1972 • IMPALA 1961-1966 • CHEVELLE/MALIBU 1964-1969 • FIREBIRD 1970-1981 • CHALLENGER/BARRACUDA 1970-1974 • CAMARO 1967-1979 • DART/DUSTER 1970-1976 • CHEVY 1955-1957

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What size carburetor is correct for my engine? Story by Steve Ager • Photos courtesy of Holley

What size carburetor is correct for my engine? Performance Improvements stocks carbs from Holley Performance, Edelbrock and Proform Parts. Sometimes people either have a preconceived notion of what size carb they want or they need some direction about what to choose. We can help you choose the best carb that will work for your vehicle and how you plan on driving it. You can always contact us for answers to specific carb questions but read on to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about carburetors.

Carb Size: Is bigger always Better? While we’ve all heard people say - “Bigger is Better” - is that always true? We know that more air and fuel equals more power, does that mean the biggest carburetor always makes more power? Unfortunately, too much carb is a common mistake that can actually hurt the overall performance of your engine. The right idea would be to match the carburetor to the engine’s breathing ability or volumetric potential. The engine’s volumetric efficiency is a measurable value and with a correctly matched carburetor, you will improve the performance of your engine. How to calculate Carburetor CFM The formula for calculating how much CFM (cubic feet per minute) your engine requires is: CFM = Cubic Inches x RPM x Volumetric Efficiency ÷ 3456. Any ordinary stock engine will have a volumetric efficiency of about 80%. Most rebuilt street engines with average bolt-ons have a volumetric efficiency of about 85%, while race engines can range from 95% up to 110%. Example: Using a 355 CID engine x 5,500 max rpm = 1,952,500 Take 1,952,500 x .85 = 1,659,625 Then 1,659,625 ÷ 3456 = 480 CFM Even with about a 10% cushion, a 500 CFM carburetor will handle this engine

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great. If you try this formula yourself, be honest with how much rpm the engine will see. You’d be better off with a carb smaller than needed rather than something oversized that can lead to poor drivability and performance. Vacuum or Mechanical Secondaries? A vacuum secondary carburetor is usually most fuel efficient when it’s used on street driven cars that have automatic transmissions. Vacuum secondary carburetors have one accelerator pump and work off sensing the engine load, which progressively open the secondary butterflies as rpm increases. A mechanical secondary carburetor uses mechanical linkage to open the secondary butterflies and most also have dual accelerator

pumps (a.k.a. double pumper). Mechanical secondary carbs are best used on applications with more radical camshafts, high rpm racing situations, and manual transmissions. Does Carb size matter? Recently the Engine Masters show on the Motor Trend On Demand site did a comprehensive test to see just what differing sized carbs would produce. Here is what they learned. Base Engine 383 stroker Chevy Small Block: Edelbrock air gap dual plane intake. 210 cc heads Comp Cam hydraulic roller cam 230/236 @ 50 A better than average 400 HP street performance engine. The test was four Holley XP series carbs, 650, 750, 850 and 950 CFM. Now this series of dyno pulls was on the Westech Performance dyno. Probably one of the best facilities around. Here is what they found. Remember these numbers were from wide open throttle.

First, larger is not always better. If this was to be a 327 or 350 engine street driven just for pleasure, the 650 will give the best all-around performance, excellent throttle response, good fuel mileage, great low and mid range performance. No one will notice the 3 or 4 HP missing. On this 383 engine, again for street driving the 750 would be the right choice. From there on if the car is being set up for maximum performance, drag racing etc the 850. The 950 needs more engine. If you want to see the whole show go to Motor Trend On Demand, Engine Masters episode 44: CARB SIZE MATTERS.

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turns Re y Da 5 36 • NG PI IP SH EE Canadian Pricing • FR

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Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress used under license to Mothers, Inc.

Top 10 Holley Sniper EFI Tech Tips Story by Tom Kise • Holley Technical Training Manager

Read the Instructions #1 READ the instructions and Follow them. If you do not understand a step, seek assistance. Check Your Wiring #2 Wire it properly… Most important! MAIN POWER AND GROUND need to go to the battery! Direct to the BATTERY! Not to the fuse panel, starter solenoid or some random distribution stud or strip or other location. Direct to the battery means to the battery. Make sure you are using proper wiring practices; incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running an eyelet from the pump to a rusty or painted surface. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Extending wires with too small of a wire gauge will also result in the same damage. Double-Check Your Ground #3 Engine ground should be 1AWG or larger and go directly from the battery to the engine. Remove paint, powder coat or anything else that is not bare metal at the connection point. Grounding the battery to the frame and the frame to the engine may have been OK for your carburetor, but it is not sufficient for digital electronics. Triple-Check Your Ignition #4 Ignition parts - with EFI you need to run resistor plugs and resistor, non-solid core wires. Be sure you have properly gap your spark plugs and if you plan to run Magnetic pickup distributors for timing control, you need to properly phase the rotor. Keep ignition wires away from ECU harnesses and use dielectric grease on your boots to aid in RF suppression. If you have RF and or EMI issues you need to correct them or they will result in drivability issues including idle control problems and could possibly damage the ECU. Have you ever watched a post-nuclear apocalypse movie? EMI is what wipes out all the electronics they were not defective they were damaged. Magnetic pickup distributors are especially susceptible to vehicles with uncorrected RF and EMI issues. Inspect Your O2 Sensor #5 O2 sensors… The Sniper ships with an OEM grade Bosch O2

sensor. Oxygen sensors read unburnt Oxygen, not Fuel. All it knows is what it sees in the pipe. When a wideband sensor is damaged it will almost always reads dead lean. Why; because the sensor gets fouled and exhaust gasses cannot get to the sensing element leaving oxygen as the only thing present for it to read, hence the dead lean reading. So, what damages O2 sensors? Top cause is excessive fuel, most often caused by the system adding fuel due to false readings resulting from incorrect sensor placement, cylinder misfires, exhaust leaks, overly rich tunes. You may be surprised to know that excessively rich engines can cause a false lean reading, resulting in a closed loop adding even more fuel making it read leaner and adding more fuel until it floods the engine and fuel fouls the sensor. Oil control, if you’re burning oil you will kill your O2 sensor, closed loop chasing unstable fuel supply issues (see fuel pumps comment) wrong sealants or fuel additives that are not O2 sensor safe will kill your sensor. The O2 needs to be mounted 6-8” after the merge in the header collector. It needs the tip pointed down at least 10 degrees from horizontal and at least 15 degrees from vertical I prefer about a 45-degree angle from horizontal. You should then have at least 18-24” of pipe after the sensor. If you have any exhaust leaks between the combustion chamber and 18-24” after the sensor you are going to have problems. Pinched and burnt O2 sensor wiring, keep it high tight and safe, if you short the harness, not only are you likely to damage the sensor you probably just short-circuited your ECU. For the most part all you need is a solid foundation. Fix mechanical issue before installing the system and follow the instructions. Fuel Pump Location #6 Where is your Fuel pump? The sniper master kits ship with OEM grade 255 LPH Walbro Pumps. Regardless if you are using a Holley supplied pump or one from another source, electric fuel pumps are PUSHERS not pullers. The pump needs to be GRAVITY FED. Meaning the pump inlet needs to be at or below the bottom of the tank and as close to the tank as possible. This is why most OEM EFI pumps are in the tank. It needs to have an 80-100-micron pre-fi lter installed between the tank and the pump in addition to a 10-micron fi lter between the pump and throttle body. Avoid using any 90-degree fittings between the tank and pump. A tube type 90 is equal to adding 3 feet of fuel line between the tank www.PerformanceImprovements.com

and pump. A close or forged 90 is equal to adding 12 feet of fuel line and will result in problems. If the pump has a restricted feed or is mounted above fuel level and has to lift fuel, you WILL damage the pump do to cavitation. Most current pump fuels boil around 130 degrees. Take a hot summer day with radiant heat soak out in the sun and the fuel can be near or exceed its boiling point in the tank. If vacuum is required to overcome a restriction or to lift the fuel to a high mounted pump, the resulting reduction in pressure can and will boil fuel in the line and at the pump inlet resulting in fuel pressure issues and pump damage. If your pressure drops, the system will react by adding fuel in closed loop and learn. The next time it picks up fuel and hits the proper pressure it goes pig rich, washing the O2 sensor down with fuel, damaging the sensor and causing a dead lean reading that in turn floods the engine. The resulting O2 sensor failure is damaged not defective. How did you install the return line to the tank? If you free dumped it in the top, it will aerate and foam up the fuel. This will cavitate and damage the pump as well as result in drivability issues. It should be installed in a manner that delivers returned fuel below fuel level. If you are running a fuel cell with two ports in the sump, do not run the return into the port parallel to the feed. Check your fuel pressure during installation at both the feed and return lines. Feed pressure should be knocking on 58 PSI and the return should ideally be zero, if the feed pressure is not correct, or if the return line pressure is greater than 4-5 PSI find and correct the restriction before proceeding. Idle Air Control Valve #7 Idle / IAC… I want to start by saying that the engine should not require any IAC air bypass to idle. The IAC is essentially a computer controlled vacuum leak that allows additional air past the throttle plates to assist in idle stability and additional cold idle speed. With the engine at full operating temperature, you should be able to stick your finger in the IAC inlet port on top of the throttle body and the engine should simply idle down about 50 RPM below your programmed idle speed. If it dies or drops more than 50-75 RPM, the throttle is closed too far. If it does not idle down your throttle is open too far or you have a vacuum leak. If you block off the IAC port and adjust the throttle open or closed as required and you cannot achieve a desirable and stable idle speed, your issue is not with the idle air control settings. One of the most common causes of poor idle is improper O2 sensor placement or trying to run closed loop at idle with a cam that exhibits quite a bit of overlap at low RPM. Both of these are easily corrected. Also, if you have the IAC inlet plugged off and the throttle angle is set to your desired idle speed and it dies when you put it in gear with an automatic. Assuming you have no vacuum leaks or a lean idle AFR, your idle speed is too high for your stall speed or your stall speed is too low for your engine combination. Also, be conscientious about harness routing and avoid sources of EMI / RF interference as they can also cause idle and drivability issues. Hard Starting Issues #8 Hard starting and hot restart issues. Make sure the fuel pump is properly mounted and picking up fuel. If you turn your key to run, and the RPM on your tach sweeps, you probably have an MSD 6425 digital 6AL or ready to run distributor with the 12V square wave tach output wire. Most likely, you missed the part in the ignition system or distributors instruction manual that said you need to disable your ignition systems rev limit verification feature if you are running EFI.

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If not, you will fight startup issues. Flood the engine and damage your O2 sensor. Also check your cranking voltage if it starts hard. If your voltage drops below 11 volts replace the battery with one capable of supporting the vehicles cranking needs ideally it should not drop below 12 digital electronic like clean stable voltage if you’re getting in the 10’s you’re asking for issues. Ignition Switch Wiring #9 Incorrect ignition switch wiring. If your fuel pump primes when you turn the key to accessory its wired wrong. (This could have been lumped in with #8 but I felt it needed a place of its own.) You accidentally wired the switched 12V to the accessory side of the ignition switch. This circuit shuts off during crank and will obviously cause problems. Your handheld should stay powered on between run and crank if it shuts off it is wired wrong or you have a dead spot in the switch. If the switch has an engineered dead spot between run and crank (It did not matter with a carburetor when they designed your vehicle, but it’s not EFI friendly) and it’s just not plum worn out, you can install a time delay relay in-line to correct this I use relay part number 74985 from Delcity. To overcome the switch design. Strange Noises #10 Weird sounds…. Clicking, ticking and sucking sounds. Many of these are completely normal with EFI. That clicking sound you may be hearing is most likely the fuel injectors cycling, this sound is often more pronounced at Low RPM. Part throttle sucking sounds. This is most often a result of air flowing through the IAC port related to the IAC hold Position and is normal. Another cause may be the proximity of a dual plane intakes plenum divider to vacuum passages under the throttle body resulting in an odd sucking or whistling sound. While it may sound odd, it is not a defect and will not cause any drivability issues. Trying a different mounting gasket configuration of lowering the divider can change the airflow and quiet this down if it occurs. This happens with some carburetors on dual planes as well. Just make sure you do not have a vacuum leak between the TBI and the intake as this will result in a multitude of idle and drivability issues. Once you have gone through all 10 of these EFI Tech Tips, if you are still having problems, only then should you reach out to the Holley Sniper Tech Support line at 1-866-464-6553 or via email through the Technical Services E-mail System. Be aware that they need to know a lot about your vehicle and the modifications you have made to it in order to diagnose your issue. If you still are having issues with the EFI kit you purchased from us please Contact Us and we’ll do our best to help you out.

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SUPERIOR BRAKE TECHNOLOGY

ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE

PERFORMANCE BRAKE PADS

STOP YOUR VEHICLE Engineered and Produced in Canada

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Available at:

• TORONTO • BARRIE • BRAMPTON • HAMILTON • OSHAWA •

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PERFORMANCE ROTORS

Latest Products on the Shelf Photos courtesy Manufacturers

If you have ever found yourself on the side of the road changing a tire at night, lying under your project trying to see clearly something you are trying to repair, or simply looking for a light source to help you see something, Brightsource has the lamp for you. 5x7 heavy duty rechargeable work light is now available. Completely portable with two power settings. Take it anywhere. On high 750 lumens lasts for 3-4 hours, low 375 lumens lasts 5-6 hours without a recharge. There is also a flashing feature. This lamp features 10 watt LED lighting, A USB port to recharge your portable mobile device, plus small size will fit into a glove box or centre console. Each light comes with the necessary cable plus a full one year warranty. We said it was heavy duty! Well, it will withstand the weight of your car. So, when you need extra light, pull it out, adjust the arm to the position you want and there you go.

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BRIGHTSOURCE - BS791102R

Vibrant Performance quick-release fittings are lightweight and constructed entirely from 6061 aluminum alloy. They allow for quick and easy disassembly by hand of any fluidrelated component with no mess or spillage. They’re perfect for use on oil, coolant, and fuel lines. Vibrant Performance quick-release fittings are available in sizes ranging from -4 AN to -12 AN in an anodized black finish. Performance Improvements is your source for the full line of Vibrant Performance products. VIBRANT - VP20804 NEW RACE-GAS ULTRA is specifically designed for the requirements of very high compression, boosted or nitrous engines. ULTRA, when mixed with pump gasoline, will create racing fuel with octane between 108 and 112 r+m/2. Like our original product, ULTRA increases the octane, chemical oxygen and chemical energy of the fuel to equal commercially distilled racing fuel. RACE-GAS ULTRA is a much different formula than original RACE-GAS. “In testing we found the requirements of very high compression engines were different than engines with lower compression or lower boost. We needed to create a formula that could achieve the high octane while still meeting our requirements of high chemical energy and high chemical oxygen in a consistent and predictable way. We chose to use the highest quality pharmaceutical grade chemicals and to avoid using alcohols or naphthalene which don’t meet our design standards” said Dan Muldowney.

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“Further, when we did our engine dyno testing we did “like for like” testing against commercial racing fuel. We first did a series of “pulls” with commercial racing fuel. We then drained the fuel and fuel rail and added RACE-GAS ULTRA blended with pump gas. We then repeated the test. We did not change the engine set up or tune during testing” “We found that we were able to create the same horse power and torque as commercial racing fuel and that the fuel performed consistently under different conditions.” 1 Can RACE-GAS ULTRA + 4 gallons of 89 = 4 gallons of 108 Octane R+M/2 1 Can RACE-GAS ULTRA + 4 gallons of 91 = 4 gallons of 110 Octane R+M/2 1 Can RACE-GAS ULTRA + 4 gallons of 93 = 4 gallons of 112 Octane R+M/2

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Race Gas ULTRA Race Fuel Concentrate 32oz RG200032 Race Gas Race Fuel Concentrate 32oz RG100032

Performance Improvements is your source for Covercraft Industries, the leading manufacturer of automotive protection products including vehicle covers, seat covers, front end masks, dashboard covers, floor mats, window sunscreens, RV covers, patio furniture covers and others. The company focuses on custom patterned products with a library that includes more than 400,000 distinct automotive patterns. Many different fabrics available including the wild new Grafi x Series! Use our new online lookup to find the right protection for your vehicle.

In 1979, a US Air Force retiree living in Arizona noticed the number of vehicles driving around with towels on the dash area in an effort to reduce the harsh heat and glare of the desert sun. He experimented with a number of different materials, looking for both the ideal texture (to reduce glare) and insulation (to reduce heat build-up) and, after adding a latex backing for shape retention, he introduced the perfect carpet for his new product – DashMats. Seat covers help protect seats from daily abuse – kids, dogs, dirt, spills, weekend adventures – a good quality seat cover can help keep your seats looking new for years. All Covercraft seat covers are easy-on/easy-off and are machine washable. Covercraft SeatSavers™ are custom tailored for a perfect fit and include headrest and armrest covers where applicable. Choose from our traditional polycotton fabric, Carhartt Duck Weave, Carhartt Mossy Oak Camo, Prym1 Camo or our waterproof polyester.

www.PerformanceImprovements.com

EDELBROCK AVS2 CARBS Story by Rob McJannett Interestingly, this new product is the third generation of the Edelbrock carb. First, there was the Performer which has been out there making people happy for 30 some years. Next came the AVS Thunder series, now there is the AVS2. The folks at Edelbrock, plus loads of others, believe that this is the best carb yet for a street driven car. Currently available in 500 and 650 cfm configurations designed and calibrated for optimum street performance in small-block and some big-block engines. The AVS2 features annular flow primary boosters with a new calibration for improved off idle and cruising performance. The annular flow booster design delivers improved fuel atomization to eliminate flat spots that may be encountered when the carburetor transitions from idle to full throttle. Each annular flow booster features eight, equally spaced orifices to improve fuel metering from idle to the main circuit. The improved flow metering makes this carburetor ideal for use with a wide variety of small-block and big-block engines with either dual- or single-plane intake manifolds.

These Edelbrock AVS2 carbs include both timed and full vacuum ports for ignition advance and include the appropriate metering jets, metering rods, etc. The AVS2 offers improved idle and throttle response plus better fuel mileage if you are not trying to bury the throttle.

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What can you expect from the new AVS2 • The latest in updated internals • Increased driveability • Increased power • Increased mileage • More bottom end torque • Improved throttle response

Downleg boosters (on the left), are located in the carburetor primaries and simply provide fuel down the centre of the venturi. Annular boosters (on the right), feature eight equally-spaced small holes for better fuel atomization. Improved fuel atomization eliminates flat spots when the carburetor transitions from idle to part throttle for better low rpm performance.

The Techs at Edelbrock believe this is the nearest thing to fuel injection available.

500 CFM MANUAL CHOKE ED1902

650 CFM ELECTRIC CHOKE ED1906

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For the latest pricing and availability, visit one of the Performance Improvements Speed Shops or order from our website www.performanceimprovements.com.

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CONVERSIONS Lumens High Performance Lighting strives to be the leading manufacturer of high-quality lighting upgrades for vehicles at a reasonable cost to consumers. They have become the go-to brand for anyone looking for improved lighting for their vehicle. Their newest light is a series of LED POD Lights easily installed in places where additional lighting is needed. Currently available in White, Blue, Red and Amber. LED POD Lights are small 2 ⅜” long and 1 ½” wide, but powerful. These surface mount LED POD Lights are great for adding a powerful light source on many types of applications: cars, pickup trucks, 18 wheelers, motorcycles, RVs, ATVs, boats, retail displays, and more. Anywhere you need more light. Let your imagination run wild! Being waterproof, you can comfortably use these pods inside or outside. Rugged design via die-cast aluminum housing. 15W of LEDs provide an extremely bright light source. Specially designed polycarbonate lens provides a wide and even light pattern. Simple to install with easy positive/negative wiring. Each LED POD Light comes with all necessary mounting hardware. No matter if you want to install one on a flat or curved surface, there are two rubber mounting options to make it easy. No additional controller to install/mount. Not limited to the number of pods a controller would have.

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Amber - HILDPOD15WA Blue - HILDPOD15WB

Red - HILDPOD15WR White - HILDPOD15WW www.PerformanceImprovements.com

Story by Bob McJannett & Mark Rogerson Photos by Jim Madigan, Dave Thomas & Kenny Kroeker

2009, Mark Rogerson and Mike Roi decided there should be a car club in their area, so the ELTA was born. The East London Timing Association (ELTA) also known as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Disciples of Speedâ&#x20AC;? have been around ever since, originating out of London, Ontario, where they have hosted their famous street party for the last 13 years

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outside of their clubhouse, a former 1930s bottling factory. The ELTA shop has become an unofficial shrine to Canadian hot rod and drag racing history. In addition to a wide variety of ELTA cars, the shop is filled with an amazing display of Canadian drag racing memorabilia attracting gearheads from all over the world.

In addition to building cars, they have had three major projects. The Summer Bash, an open house where everyone is welcome, that has grown each year and now completely fills the surrounding streets. The second has been their Big Go Drags, held at St. Thomas Raceway Park. Third is a fall mixer held in the Moorse Blacksmith Shop that has been in

Photo by Kenny Kroeker

business since 1886. This year, it was decided to combine these first two events into one massive undertaking. So for three days in August 10-12, the dragstrip played home to both the street party and the Big Go Drags. St. Thomas Raceway Park is the perfect location for a nostalgia event. The strip built by Bob and Helen Harvey on their farm property in 1962 is considered the first purpose-built drag strip in Canada.

Originally named St. Thomas Dragway, the first race was held May 27, 1962. The Harveys were great operators, treating both their racers and fans well. Unlike the strips of today, their pits had grass and some trees. Food booths were staffed by locals and their offerings were better than the norm. Some of the eras most famous racers ran down their quarter mile. Hospitality included some interesting events. The Harveys lived about

a mile from town in a nice home with a big porch. If you were from a long distance away, the racers often congregated on their porch for an adult beverage before they began the long trip home. Locals did too. At times, parking became a problem; to solve it, one day Phil Bonner from Georgia simply left his rig at the track and drove his A/FX Falcon down. As you can see, St. Thomas is the right location to celebrate where we all came from. www.PerformanceImprovements.com

With a year of planning and promotion, the trailers started showing up at the track on Tuesday and continued to Sunday, bringing every type of vintage drag machine one could imagine. The variety of licence plates on the trailers and cars coming through the gates was ever changing… Michigan, Ohio, New York, Illinois, Massachusetts, Florida,

British Columbia, Quebec, and all over Ontario. It was great to see so many different hot rods, muscle cars, customs, trucks, stock rides stuffed around this historical track all weekend. The cool part about the Big Go Drags is, street cars can be part of the 1/8-mile drag action all weekend, as long as they pass the ONDR inspection.

Photos by Kenny Kroeker

This past August 14th, ELTA Summer Bash and Big GO Drags rolled into historical St. Thomas Dragway. The East London Timing Association, brought their famous street party to the track this year plus their second Big GO Drags format, which was run what you brung, let’s have FUN and “NO GOOFS.”

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www.PerformanceImprovements.com

Photos by Mark Rogerson

Photo by Kenny Kroeker

As one walked the pit area, one couldn’t help but see some very notable drag machines: Rankin Ford “Wild Child”; the “Comanche” top fuel dragster; Don Moyers “Rebel Reaper” 1941 Willy’s wheel standing gasser; the Rini brothers with the “The Canadian” top fuel dragster; Michigan’s own Dave Gray in the high flying “Gold Chainer” 32 Ford; Dave Adam with the “Iron Mistress” 1951

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Chevy Gasser out of Cleveland Ohio; Terry Denomme’s “Ford Country” 1958 Ford sedan delivery gasser; the old Gene Snow funny car Vega from Franklin, Ohio, and many more. This was also an outstanding weekend for anyone into Canadian drag racing history. It wasn’t hard to see those special ELTA yellow Pioneer of Drag Racing tags that

were worn by all the past original racers all weekend. Such pioneers and Hall of Famers as “Ontario” George Gray, Ev Rowse, Scott Wilson, FJ Smith, Wayne Huber, Bob “The Shoe” Tindale, Norm Noddle, Bill Kydd, Charlie Haviland, “Wild Man” Bob Walker, Andy Marsh, just to name a few. Hall of Famer Rob Potter was in the tower announcing and doing the play by play all

1941 Willys taking on “The Falcon” Steve Stephenson in his 1939 stunt plane for family bragging rights when they raced each other Saturday afternoon. Don Becker Jr. wowing the Saturday night crowd with his flame burnouts. ELTA’s own John Chandler and his nitro rail pals lit the evening sky up with an outstanding nitro dragster cacklefest which was followed by one of Ontario’s best

surf bands, “The Thing From Outer Space”. And not to be outdone… dragster builder Dave Paddle had hot rod movies running in the pit area till the wee hours. From Friday to Sunday, there was an awesome turnout of Gassers running hard, fast and wheels up. Most of the comments from people that came was the fact that they hadn’t been to an event that contained such a

Photos by Jim Madigan

weekend. There was a great turn out of car clubs: Hamilton Road Runners, Brantford Piston Pushers, Windsor Shakers, Ancaster Rod Masters, Galt Strokers, Dog Patch Devils from Picton and the Cambridge Tyrods for example. The showmanship was second to none, with such great drag racers like “Mr. Excitement” Kevin Trimble in his wild

www.PerformanceImprovements.com

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and Ontario Gassers for coming out to help and support “Canada’s favourite HIGH octane party,” and everyone else that made the 14th ELTA Summer Bash and Big Go Drags so much fun. Mark August 9 to 12 on your calendar for 2019 to come to the best nostalgia party and race around. See you there!

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Photos by Dave Thomas

variety of cars on and around the track. From open-wheel altered to flashy door slammers and pro mod’s to even a Ford Model T making passes…lol… there was something for all to cheer on. There were great memories made around the track that weekend and around the campfires. The ELTA would like to also pass on sincere thanks to ONDR

_REVIEW LS GEN IV ENGINES 2005 - PRESENT: HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE There is an enormous amount of information on the GM Gen IV engine family on the pages of Mike Mavriganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest book. He details the differences between the four iron blocks and the six cast aluminum versions. Explains the idiosyncrasies in each engine and warns of the pieces that should be strengthened if increased horsepower is your plan. Once you have digested all the features of the stock LS engines ,Mike moves to things that will make your LS engine even more fun to own. Particularly interesting are the differences between the OE cylinder heads and OE rocker arms. No matter what part of the engine you are concerned about there is a chapter on it. Blocks, crankshafts and rods, cylinder heads, pistons, camshafts, rocker arms oiling systems, EFI, and intake manifolds are all explained in great detail. Part two documents two high-performance LS engine builds. Number one a dual carb LS408 ends up at 670.5 horsepower at 6500 rpm. The second build with a Dart LS Next block and a single Holley 850 carb provided 665.2 horsepower at 6000 rpm. So, if you have a hankering for one of these LS engines, you definitely need to have this book.

â&#x20AC;˘

Mike Mavrigian has written for magazines since 1977 and worked in the automotive industry for three decades. Mike is the editor and chief of Auto Service Professional and is a technical editor contributing technical articles to Engine Professional magazine. He has authored a number of titles for CarTech Books.

SA413 144 pages, soft cover $26.95 Available at all Performance Improvements locations www.PerformanceImprovements.com

THE

Reluctant Passenger N U

Susan McJannett,

entrepreneu r, a u t o m o t i v e enthusiast, volunteer, world traveller, advice giver, loyal Red Hat Society member, adequate choir singer and a pretty good equestrian, reached the end of her mortal road on Wednesday, May 9, 2018. We like to think she’s now cruising in her 1958 Pontiac Parisienne two-door hardtop, catching up with the family and friends she hasn’t seen in a while. This savvy businesswoman wasn’t always involved with hot rods and performance parts. Her early career aspirations included Royal Canadian Air Force pilot (she was inspired by Uncle Joe, the hunk of the family, but women weren’t allowed to fly back then), and Eastern Airlines stewardess (but eyeglasses weren’t allowed and she would’ve had to pay for her own contacts). Eventually she found herself in the wild world of administration, saving up to buy her first car, a 1953 Chevy, then her second—that Parisienne we mentioned before. Numerous men were in Susan’s life. Oh, and women too. She grew up with her pesky younger brother Jim, who had it so much easier than she did. That’s because she broke most of the rules their parents Tom and Marion McKee set for them. In exchange, when Susan wasn’t ready to turn 50, she asked Jim to claim to be her older brother, which he did graciously. She dropped five years, just like that. Way before then, she had tons of good friends—and a few crummy boyfriends. A sticking shifter in her 1953 Chevy (no, that’s not a euphemism) brought Susan and

dashing high school dropout Bob McJannett together. Little did they know that one auto part would lead to lifelong love and a thriving speed shop empire, er, successful retail and online business. Performance Improvements would not have existed without Susan’s initial investment. She knew it would pay off—and have Bob stop complaining about getting parts. The birth of their business preceded their wedding in 1965. Their two boys, Rob and Andy—both rule-breakers just like their mom—grew up in a home fi lled with love, laughter, some time-outs and plenty of dog hair. It’s hard to say which came first, the boys or Susan’s need to belong to Royal York United Church. Bob and Susan raised two fine sons who respect others, the road and the necessity to possess a sense of humour when things get rough. Susan couldn’t be prouder. The “younger” sister enjoyed seeing more women enter the family circle with sister-

in-law Johanna and favourite (only) niece Bonnie. She was also delighted to welcome Kim and Jen to the McJannett family. Although the automotive community provided great connections and lasting friendships, Susan shared her fabulous smile and positive spirit with many more people. Lunches, dinners and get-togethers had to be booked well in advance. Church choir practice, volunteering, palliative home visits, Buzz Megg events, gardening, Red Hat gatherings and taking up horseback riding at the young age of 60 is a partial list of what Susan got up to. Oh, and never forget the parties at the house—they were legendary. We will remember Susan’s amazing smile, her nurturing nature, her contagious laugh, her fantastic attitude, the birthday cakes she baked with wrapped-up coins hidden inside for the boys, her fondness for wine and her ability to talk about horses at length, especially Marty. She taught us to never be afraid to try anything, no matter your vintage or mileage.

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Those of us still riding shotgun would like to thank Susan for making P.I. possible. Without her belief in that first Speed Shop all those years ago, our drivers, garages and time on the road would be a lot less interesting. Thanks for the ride.

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