(& Afterwards)
by David Weingarten Much has been made of seeming parallels between ancient, imperial Rome and modern, imperial America. Much recommends the analogy. Almost always, this discussion takes form as a cautionary tale – watch out, say some, or our mighty corner of civilization will come crashing down upon us, much as it did with eternal Rome, 1500 years ago.
– Venice, Verona, Siena, Florence, Pisa, San Gimignano and, finally, it needs hardly be said, Rome. The Eternal City was largely jammed; largely, it seemed to me, by Italians; largely taking a great deal of pleasure in being part of the throng out and about along the ancient streets, among the ancient and later genius architecture.
If the forces propelling this are plain enough, is the end of empire the calamity foreseen by some? In the very long run, in post-imperial America, doesn’t life go on?
I detected no hand wringing or other evidences of angst (save for the country’s inflammatory politicians and other military men); over the city’s very long-diminished political and economic position in the world; no regret that the once vast, sprawling Roman empire had contracted back to the city limits, and no shame or foreboding; only that characteristically Roman joy, pride and embrace of their ancient, eternal city’s mortality.
Several months ago, as the virulence of the pandemic slowed sufficiently to permit our stir crazy household to again venture out, we made our way to (where else?) Italy; in search less of novel sights than those long familiar. We stayed first at Palladio’s Villa Saraceno, a farmhouse at once relatively simple and fully spectacular, where we had the run of the place for several of the most memorable days. There we were met by our very energetic guide who, over the course of the next few, rigorous days, arranged visits to nearly all of Palladio’s work in the Veneto (along with an invigorating dash of projects by architect Carlo Scarpa). The schedule was demanding – up early, late to bed – a kind of Palladio boot camp. Visits elsewhere ensued; the usual suspects
This caused me to wonder if our various apprehensions over the ticking down of American empire aren’t misplaced; if there mightn’t be some considerable upside to decline. Imagine this country’s great cities – New York, San Francisco, Chicago, Boston, et. al.,- 500 years from now (or 1,500!), upon a beautiful early Summer day, in late afternoon, the now ancient streets crowded with those participating, hands unwrung, in the pleasures provided by the past.
13
