Pixelated Palette July 2021 Issue by Pixelated Palette

July 2021 Ornament Issue Sandy McTier

Holly Jolly Merry Christmas

Margaret Riley

Country Ornaments

46-59

Barbara Bunsey, CDA His Kitted Hats

94-100

5-16 Lynne Andrews Bear-ing Gifts

17-24

Effie Carayannis Dot Art Christmas Decorations

60-68

Marlene Fudge, CDA

Holiday Facemasks

101-106

Cindy Pointe

Anita Campanella Folk Nutcrackers

Jolly Jingle Bells

26-32

69-77

107-123

Maryjo Tuttle

Susan Cochrane

Tammey Etheredge

33-38

78-84

124-133

Bee Ornaments

Christmas Patches

Paola Bassan

Gnome Alone

Jane Allen

Christmas Shovel Ornaments

Herbert, Holly, and Heuy

39-45

86-93

Sharon Cook

A JOYful Trio

Chris Haughey

Mini Holiday Sleds

135-141

Owner/Founder: Chris Haughey Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate, palettepixels@gmail.com Copyright Notice: ©2021 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 11 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine. The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed. Reproduction of editorial content is strictly 2 prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

July 2021 Ornament Issue Marika Moretti Ornament Friends

Elisabetta de Maria, CDA

Debby ForsheyChoma

Three Angels

Winter’s Fish Whispers

142-149

184-190

230-239

Maxine Thomas

Sandy LeFlore

Peace, Love, and Joy

Vacation Claus

192-198

150-156

Anne Hunter

Jamie Mills-Price

158-164

200-209

Pear Garland

Sharon Bond

Stocking Surprises

165-173

240-247

We Three Friends

Phyllis Spaw

Winter Wonderland Trio

210-216

Shannon B Reilly The Whole Snow Family

174-183

Deb Antonick

Wintry Woodland Ornaments

Deb Mishima

August Sneak Peek

217-228

250

Winter Wonders

Owner/Founder: Chris Haughey Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate, palettepixels@gmail.com Copyright Notice: ©2021 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 11 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine. The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed. Reproduction of editorial content is strictly 3 prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

Welcome to the Pixelated Palette’s Annual Ornament Issue! The Ornament issue is always my favorite as I am the company Christmas addict. I just cannot get enough Christmas! I would leave my decorations up year-round if I could! I know I am not the only Christmas crazy person out there. Did you know that Christmas ornaments are one of the most popular gifts during the holiday season? Michigan’s Bronner’s Christmas Wonderland, the world’s largest Christmas store, sells more than 2 million Christmas ornaments a year! That is a TON of ornaments! And I would not doubt that our painters worldwide make way more than that! Every year, we set a goal at Pixelated Palette to publish more ornament designs than the past year. This year, we have 80 individual ornament designs – 23 more than last year’s issue! And for this Christmas nut, this issue has been my favorite one to date! Sandy McTier graces the cover with Holly Jolly Merry Christmas Ornaments. These two gorgeous ornaments adorned with holly and mistletoe can also be personalized, making the perfect gift for that special someone this holiday season. In addition to Sandy’s two ornament designs, there are 78 more designs in this issue! We have traditional designs from Anne Hunter and Maxine Thomas and more whimsical designs from Deb Antonick and Sharon Bond. And even though face masks are not as prevalent as they were earlier in the year, 0DUOHQH )XGJH¶V design could easily be painted on round Christmas ornaments. So, grab your paint and brushes and let the ornament painting commence! And don’t forget to share your finished ornaments and post finished ornaments from our issue on our Facebook page or tag us on Instagram! We can’t wait to see them!!

Happy painting! ~Lindsey

Holly Jolly Merry Christmas Ornaments Original Design by Sandy McTier sandymctierdesigns@aol.com www.SandyMcTierDesigns.com I just love greenery, especially during the holidays. Mistletoe, holly leaves, and branches with berries are perfect for decorating a mantle or table scape! I loved painting the greenery on these ornaments and could see personalizing them with a name and adding them as a tag on a wrapped present! 5

Surface x Bevel-Cut Wood Ornaments x 2 Medium, Item SLDPK708 – Available on tolepaintingdesigns.com Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Asphaltum x Citron Green x Country Red x Hauser Light Green x Lamp Black x Light Avocado x Oyster Beige x Plantation Pine x Snow Titanium White x Sour Apple DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics/Americana Acrylic Substitutions x Metallic Gold /Extreme Sheen Gold x Paynes Grey/Paynes Grey Mediums/Varnish x Multi-Purpose Sealer x Soft Touch Varnish by DecoArt Brushes x Angle 3/8" & 1/4" Black Gold Brushes by Dynasty x Flats 3/4", #4 & #6 Black Gold Brushes by Dynasty x Rigger #0 by Dynasty Available on www.sandymctierdesigns.com OR Liner brush of choice x Small Mezzaluna by Dynasty Available on www.sandymctierdesigns.com Other Supplies x Baby Wipes x Palette x Paper Towels x Sanding Pad x Transfer Paper x Water Basin Surface Preparation Paint the ornaments with Multi-Purpose Sealer and let dry.

Background Using the 3/4" Flat, paint both ornaments and inserts with Oyster Beige and let dry. Try not to get too thick with your paint around the inner oval or on the edge of the insert. Cut the pattern to size and transfer the designs to the ornaments. Merry Christmas Ornament Painting Instructions: Load the #4 Flat with Light Avocado and paint the mistletoe leaves. Load the #6 with Hauser Light Green and paint the larger leaves. Keep this color on the brush and pick up some Citron Green. Slightly mix on your palette and paint the eucalyptus leaves.

Paint a second coat on all the greenery and let dry. Dip the end of the brush handle into Country Red and paint the berries. Wipe off the brush, load with Snow White and paint the white berries. To make them a little bit bigger, move the handle of the brush around in a circle. Let dry. Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Asphaltum and loosely float color under the berries and leaves. We will add more shading after everything is painted.

Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Plantation Pine and a touch of Lamp Black; blend on the toe only. Float color at the base of the larger leaves and the center vein on the leaves. Repeat step for the mistletoe leaves. Rinse the brush, load the toe with Hauser Light Green and Snow White; blend on the toe only. Float color down the center vein on the larger leaves. Reload the brush and add a touch of Citron Green, blend on the toe. Float the color on the highlighted side of the larger leaves and just a little on the darker side of the leaf. Load the small Mezzaluna with White and a touch of Citron Green; mix and then wipe almost all the paint off on a paper towel. Dry brush on the highlighted side of the leaf to brighten it up even more. Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Light Avocado and White; blend on the toe. Float color along the top of the mistletoe leaves. Let dry. Reload brush and slide on the chisel edge of the brush from the top down just a bit to add some texture and thin lines.

Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Plantation Pine and Asphaltum and blend the colors on the toe only. Float color at the base of the eucalyptus leaves. Reload the toe with paint mix and paint the stems. Let dry. Rinse the brush, load the toe with Sour Apple and a touch of White and blend on the toe only. Float color along the top of the eucalyptus leaves. Red Berries: Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Country Red and a touch of Lamp Black. Blend on the toe of the brush only. Float the color along the bottom of the red berries. Let dry. Load a damp #4 with Country Red and paint a wash of color over the berries to brighten them. Let dry. Load the Rigger with Snow White and paint a small dot on each berry. 8

White Berries: Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Plantation Pine and a tiny touch of Asphaltum. Blend on the toe of the brush only. Float color along the bottom of the white berries. Let dry. Rinse the brush, load with Snow White and float along the top of the white berries. Let dry. Load the Rigger with Paynes Grey and dot each of the white berries.

Load a very wet #6 with Snow White and make paint a very inky consistency. Tap the handle of the brush over the handle of another brush to add splatter here and there.

I decided after I wrote Merry Christmas on the insert that I wanted the design to flow into the inner oval. You can paint the elements at the same time you are painting them on the larger oval or paint them after inserting the oval. Make sure to line up the little notch with the pencil marking on the back so that you can push the insert in once you’ve finished painting it. If it feels a little tight, lightly sand around the edge of the insert and the inside oval on the main surface.

After painting the greenery (the same way you did on the larger surface) float on some shadows using the 1/4" Angle brush loaded with just a touch of Paynes Grey. Mine was a little too dark at first so I painted a wash of Oyster Beige over them to tone them down. Load the Rigger with Country Red and paint Merry Christmas; let dry. Load the brush with Asphaltum and White; mix on palette. I was going for a lighter brown color for the shadow. Make the paint a little inky with water and then paint the shadow on the words. If you get it too big, simply come back with some Oyster Beige and take some of the shadow away. If you get it on the red letters, simply repaint them with Country Red.

Load the toe of a damp 3/8” Angle brush with Asphaltum. Float the color along the edge of the surface. Reload the toe of the brush and float color along the outer and inner oval on the main surface. Load the #6 with Metallic Gold and paint the ornament topper; let dry. Load the Rigger with Asphaltum and Metallic Gold and paint lines down and along the topper as shown. Dip the handle of the brush into the gold and paint dots at the base of the ornament topper. Let dry. If the brown is too dark, paint a wash of gold over it to tone it down. Finishing Touches: Darken any shading and brighten any highlights if necessary. Line up the markings on the ornaments and push the inner oval into the center of the ornament. Add a ribbon to hang on your tree or add it as a gift tag on a present.

Holly Jolly Christmas Ornament: Load the #6 with Hauser Light Green and paint the holly leaves; let dry. Paint a second layer if necessary. Rinse the brush and paint a wash of Citron Green over the leaves. Load the #4 with Light Avocado and paint the Mistletoe leaves; let dry. Paint a second layer if necessary. I wanted the Mistletoe on this ornament a little brighter, so I painted a wash of Citron Green over them.

Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Plantation Pine and a touch of Lamp Black. Blend colors on the toe of the brush only. Float vein down the center of the holly leaves and the mistletoe leaves. Let dry. Reload the brush and float color at the base of all the leaves and where they meet other leaves. Reload the brush and float the color along the edge of the holly leaves. Rinse the brush, load the toe with Citron Green and a touch of White. Blend on the toe of the brush only. Float the color next to the center vein. Load a wet Rigger with inky Plantation Pine and paint veins on the holly leaves, angled to the right and left. Let dry. Load the toe of a slightly damp ¼” Angle brush with Citron Green and Snow White. Blend on the toe of the brush only. Float the color on the highlighted side of the holy leaves. Let dry. Reload the toe and float the color along the top half of the mistletoe leaves. Load the small Mezzaluna with Citron Green and Snow White, mix, and then wipe almost all of the paint off the brush. Drybrush on the highlighted side of the holly leaves and just a little on the other side. Drybrush some of the color on the Mistletoe leaves as well.

Dip the end of the paint brush into Country Red and paint the red berries. Move the handle around in a circle to make the berries bigger. Let dry. Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" Angle brush with Country Red and Lamp Black. Blend the colors on the toe only. Float the color along the bottom of the berries. Let dry. Load the small Mezzaluna with Snow White and then wipe almost all of the paint off the brush. Drybrush a highlight on the berries. Load the Rigger with Snow White and paint a dot on each berry. Let dry.

Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4" or 3/8” Angle brush with Paynes Grey and shade underneath the leaves, where the leaves meet each other, and then the berries. Shade underneath the berries as well. Reload the brush and float the color along the outside edge of the ornament. Load the #6 with Metallic Gold and paint the ornament topper; let dry. Load the Rigger with Asphaltum and Metallic Gold and paint lines down and along the topper as shown. Dip the handle of the brush into the gold and paint dots at the base of the ornament topper. Let dry. If the brown is too dark, paint a wash of gold over it to tone it down.

As with the other ornament – lay the insert in place, paint in the holly and mistletoe as you did for the rest of the ornament. Don’t forget to float some Paynes Grey underneath the leaves. Load the Rigger with Country Red and paint Have a Holly Jolly Christmas. Let dry. Load the Rigger with Snow White and paint a shadow on the letters as shown in the finished picture. After you have painted the oval insert, put it in place. Load a wet #6 with White and make the paint a very inky consistency. Tap the handle of the brush over the handle of another brush to add splatter here and there. Insert center oval, push into place, and then varnish both ornaments.

Sandy McTier Sandy lives in Georgia with her husband of 30 years and is blessed with three incredible sons! Sandy started Sandy McTier Designs in 2011 and loves painting everything from miniatures to mixed media and fine art to whimsical. Sandy travel teaches around the world, teaches at National Painting Conventions and online as well. She absolutely loves sharing her passion for painting and creating with others. Sandy is a published artist, a DecoArt Helping Artist, Dynasty Artisan and ChartPak Ambassador. Sandy is also a Creative Consultant for DecoArt, working closely with Product Development, Marketing, and Education. You can learn more about Sandy at www.sandymctierdesigns.com; see more of her art on her FB page Sandy McTier Designs; YouTube, Pinterest and Instagram under Sandy McTier.

Line drawings at 100%.

Bear- ing Gifts Original Design by Lynne Andrews Hope you enjoy painting this little project. I was inspired by the scripture in 2 Corinthians 9: 6-8 (…for God loves a cheerful giver) which, in turn, made me think of different kinds of gifts. This is my gift to you.

Surface MDF laser cut ornament- 5 ¾” w x 6” l; Item # 2021-14S available from Lynne Andrews Folk Art, www.lynneandrews.com Supplies x 200 Grit Sandpaper x Black Transfer Paper x Cheek Chalk (red or pink) x Fine Point Black Marker x Heat Gun or hair dryer x Stylus x Textured Paper Towel x Tracing Paper x Twine or Ribbon approx. 10” for hanging x White Jelly Roll Pen Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Black Green x Burnt Umber x Buttermilk x Country Red x Grey Storm x Heritage Brick x Lamp Black x Milk Chocolate x Olive Green x Plantation Pine x Snow Titanium White x Warm Beige Mediums: DecoArt x Americana Multi -Purpose Sealer x Americana Sealer/ Finisher x Americana Glazing Medium x Glamour Dust- Crystal Brushes x Floater - #’s 2, 4, 8 series #3020 by Lynne Andrews x Stippler- #’s 4, 6 series 3014 by Lynne Andrews x Maxine’s Oval Mops ½”, 3/8”, ¼” series 270 x Domed Sash 5/8” series 9049- by Jack Richeson x Any brush to seal and basecoat

Tips and Techniques Floating. I have designed a new brush for my floating. It’s called the Lynne Andrews Floater. This brush is a combination of a round and a liner brush. The bristles hold a large amount of paint or paint/ water mixture, while the point allows access to the smallest areas. Floating with an LA Floater is basically the same as a conventional float, treating the round the same way you would a flat or angular brush. Dip the brush into water, blot on a paper towel, and dip the tip into the paint. Work the paint into the brush by brushing back and forth on a palette once or twice. Lay the tip of the point up against the area you will float. Hold the brush almost parallel to the surface and continue just as you would with a flat. After floating, use a mop to soften and blend. Blending. Use a small mop brush to blend and soften the area (especially the edges) of the section where a wash has been applied. This is an important step when working with washes. Overlaying washes. Paint one wash over another in successive layers to build up a depth of color. For added softness, mop immediately after applying the wash. Each layer must be completely dry before applying the next or the paint will lift. Use a small hair dryer set on low to speed the drying process. Preparation Seal the MDF surface with Americana Multi- Purpose Sealer. Basecoat the ornament with two coats of Buttermilk, drying, and lightly sanding between coats. When completely dry, trace, and transfer the design onto the surface (refer to line drawing #1). Leave off small details such as snowflakes on scarf, holly, mitten detail, and design on the bear’s blanket, etc. They can be added once your initial washes have been applied (line drawing #2). Add them as needed. Polar Bear Use the #8 floater to wash the polar bear White. Immediately stipple (light pressure) with the domed sash, to blend, and soften the wash. Dry completely and repeat if needed. Wash the scarf with Heritage Brick, keeping it on the lighter side. Mop, dry, and repeat a second layer. Once that is dry, wash Country Red over the Heritage Brick and mop. One layer should be enough. Use the #4 floater to float Burnt Umber along the outside of the nose, bring the float up, and over to form eye socket area. Mop with a soft Maxine’s mop, to blend, and soften. Do this to the other side as well. Repeat with a soft float of Grey Storm. When dry, add two Lamp Black almond shape eyes with a Snow White highlight in each. His nose, mouth, and inside each ear, are Lamp Black. The nose gets a Snow White highlight. Shading on the bear’s body is Grey Storm. I used a small amount of paint mixed with the water, so the color wasn’t too intense or harsh. Immediately mop to soften as you apply it. Add a darker float (more color) to areas such as between legs, folds, etc. The scarf needs to be shaded before you add the snowflakes. I shaded each section as well as around the outside of the scarf, using Grey Storm. Mop and dry. If you need more definition, add a tiny bit of Lamp Black to the Grey Storm. The snowflakes and blanket stitching are randomly drawn on the scarf, using the White Jelly Roll pen. The pen is highly water soluble so avoid and brush strokes or water over it and do not erase as it will lift. You can paint then in Snow White if you choose.

Santa Wash Santa’s face Warm Beige, using the #4 floater. Mop and dry. Float along the outside of his nose (same as you did the polar bear) with Burnt Umber. Stop at the top of the nose. Do both sides. Float across the top of his face, up against the fur band, with Burnt Umber. Mop with ¼” mop. Switch to Grey Storm and float all around the outside of his face, on the hair, to define the shape of the face. You won’t see most of this once the hair is painted. Use the #2 floater and add Snow White eyebrows. Directly under eyebrows, paint a Black dot for each eye. When dry, add a tiny Snow White highlight to center of each eye. When dry, use pink or red cheek chalk and drybrush cheeks. I’ve also used a red colored pencil. The coat and pants are washed Plantation Pine. I did two layers, mopping to blend. Paint each mitten and the boot, Lamp Black. Paint Snow White snowflakes on top of each mitten, using the tip of the #2 floater. When dry, add White stylus dots to ends of each snowflake. His hat will remain Buttermilk but paint alternating Country Red stripes on it. When dry, add a stripe of Plantation Pine down the center of each remaining Buttermilk stripe. Float across the top of fur trim, on the stripes, with Burnt Umber. Shade his pant leg and the creases with Black Green. Paint the Country Red trim on the suit. The top arm has a White band on it with two stripes and a heart painted Country Red. Use the # 4 stippler and stipple White onto the cuffs, hatband. and top of boot. You want it to slightly overlap the edges, so it has a fuzzy appearance. You will do the same to the polar bear but use the #6 stippler for that. The fur trim gets a soft wash of Milk Chocolate for shading. The bag of gifts on Santa’s back is painted using a glazing technique. It is very subtle. On your palette, pour about a dime size puddle of Americana Glazing Medium. To that, add a small amount of Grey Storm (4:1) and apply to all areas of the bag. Be generous. Immediately place a paper towel, texture side down, flatly on top of the mixture. Gently rub over the top of

the paper towel until you see some seeping through it. Lift up. There should be a soft, subtle texture left. You can wipe away and re-do or dry it and add another layer. Once it is dry, shade around the outside back of Santa, on the bag, and between Santa and top of bear, with a heavier float of Grey Storm or add a touch of Black to it if needed. By doing this, it helps the elements stand out. Beard Now that Santa is finished, we can paint his beard and mustache. Wash a light layer of Grey Storm over the mustache, sides of face and a little on the beard. Dry. It’s ok if it’s a little messy. You won’t see it under the hair. Float around the outside of the mustache so it stands out against the beard. Dry. I used my #2 floater and started pulling Snow White hairs out from the sides of face. Do the same for the mustache, following the shape of it. Finally, alternate between the #2 and 4 floater to paint the Snow White hair on the beard. It is extremely watered down so it appears transparent. Extend the hair out onto the bag.

Polar Bear Blanket The shape itself remains Buttermilk. I painted each diamond Lamp Black using the #4 floater. When dry, float across the bottom painted edge with Burnt Umber. Leave the section where the words will go, Buttermilk. The band at the bottom gets Country Red checks. I used the #4 to do this. 21

I did float along the outside of the blanket, with Grey Storm. Mop and dry. It will be easier if you just look at the pattern and use your own handwriting to add the scripture. The hardest part is transferring it there. Use your judgement. If you do transfer and ink over it, please heat set the ink with either a heat gun or hair dryer, set on high heat for 20 seconds or so. This will help you to lightly erase transfer lines without removing the ink. Don’t press too hard or try to make this perfect, just look at mine. Time to paint the little sprigs of holly. I used the #2 floater and painted them Plantation Pine. When dry, I washed a small amount of Olive Green over them, loosely and messy. Dry and add your stylus dots of Country Red berries. Finishing touches Squirt a nickel size puddle of Americana Multi- Purpose Sealer on your palette. To that, tap the Crystal Glamour dust into it. Mix with the end of the brush. I like to use the same small, clean, dry mop to apply sparkles on my projects. I really put it everywhere. Once the Sealer dries, little sparkle falls off. Love this! I sprayed my ornament with several light layers of Americana Matte Sealer/ Finisher. When dry, add your ribbon or in my case, twine. I have absolutely loved painting this design for all of you. If you have never tried my technique, please go to my website, and watch the demo video of me using my brushes and layering with washes. You can always adapt my design to suit your way of painting as well! After all, we are all different and unique… Blessings my friends.

/LQH GUDZLQJV DW

BEE ORNAMENTS Original Design by Cindy Pointe Facebook and Etsy: The Creative Pointe Email: thecreativepointe@gmail.com Bees and everything apian are currently on trend. And while bees are usually used to decorate for spring and summer, why not enjoy them during the holidays too? This set of three happy hives will “bee” right at home hanging on your Christmas tree.

Surface Ɣ Round Ornaments (3) 3.875” (HobbyLobby.com) Project Supplies Ɣ Standard Acrylic Painting Tools Ɣ Tracing Paper, Tape & Stylus Ɣ Graphite Paper-white & black Ɣ Jute Cord 60.96m - 33” (cut into three 11” pieces) Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Ɣ Asphaltum Ɣ Black Green Ɣ Desert Sand Ɣ Evergreen Ɣ Grey Sky Ɣ Jade Green Ɣ Lamp Black Ɣ Lavender Ɣ Light Avocado Ɣ Light Buttermilk Ɣ Moon Yellow Ɣ Purple Cow Ɣ Royal Fuchsia Ɣ Snow White Ɣ Terra Cotta Ɣ Victorian Blue Ɣ Winter Blue Paints: DecoArt Americana Multi-Surface Satin Ɣ Gold Ɣ Silver Mediums Ɣ DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer (optional) Ɣ Americana Duraclear Ultra-Matte Varnish Brushes Ɣ Flat or Angle 3/4” Ɣ Flat or Angle ¼” Ɣ Flat or Angle 1/8” Ɣ Round #4 Ɣ Liner Ɣ Small Scruffy Brush

Cindy’s Tip: When I paint ornaments, I like the back sides to also look nice. Usually I will paint the back the same base color as I used on the front, then some simple details. For these ornaments, a quick pine branch border around the edge would look great. Or paint a bee. If I know who the ornament is going to, I’ll also paint on a name and/or year. Preparation Trace the entire design and wording banners onto tracing paper. If using an ornament that already has a ribbon hanger attached, remove it and save for another use. Cindy’s Tip: I like the “laser cut” wooden ornaments as the sides are already finished for you, so no need to paint them! Painting Instructions Background Paint a background base coat on each ornament using Jade Green, Winter Blue and Purple Cow. Apply two coats. Shade around the outer edges using the large brush. Green ornament shade is Light Avocado; Blue ornament shade is Victorian Blue; Purple ornament shade is Lavender. Once dry, use the white graphite paper to lightly transfer on all pattern lines (except the wording and hive details) onto each ornament.

Base Coats Banners- Light Buttermilk; Hives- Asphaltum; Holly Leaves-Evergreen; Bee Wings-Snow White; Bee Bodies-Lamp Black; Pine Branch Stems- Black Green. Base coat balls and ornament caps: Green ornament-Moon Yellow; Blue ornament- Grey Sky; Purple ornament-Royal Fuschia. Once dry, add a second coat to balls and ornament caps: Green ornament-Gold; Blue ornamentSilver; Purple ornament- mix of Royal Fuchsia + Silver (1:1).

Shading Shade under banners with the same colors used to shade the outer edges on each ornament. Shade banners with Desert Sand; add a second shade at the folds and under bees on banner with Asphaltum. Shade holly leaves with Black Green. Shade bulbs: gold-Asphaltum, blue-Victorian Blue, purple-Royal Fuchsia. Shade wings with Grey Sky.

Highlighting Highlight the banners in the center and on fold edges with Snow White. Holly leaves-Jade Green. Yellow bulb-Moon Yellow. Blue and purple bulbs-Snow White. Hive Using the scruffy brush, work in horizontal lines across the hive, starting at the bottom. Be sure to leave space between each line, making the first layer the widest and then getting narrower with each successive layer. Do not wash your brush between layers. First layer-Terra Cotta; Second layer-Moon Yellow; Third layer (in the center of each layer only)- Light Buttermilk. When dry, trace on the lettering, wreath, ribbon and hive door. 29

Accents & Details Lettering- Asphaltum Cindy’s Tip: Add a bit of water to your lettering paint to make it an inky consistency to make the paint flow nicely off liner. Bees Stripes-Moon Yellow. Hive Door-Asphaltum. Shade inside left with Black. Wreath-Use round brush to lightly pounce a circle with Black Green. Next narrower layer is pounced with Light Avocado. Final layer done with Jade Green. Ribbon-Use liner and thinned paint to paint the green ornament ribbon-Gold, blue ornament ribbon- Silver, and purple ornament ribbon-mix of Royal Fuchsia + Silver (1:1). Pine Branches-Use liner and thinned Black Green to stroke on first layer of needles. Next sparser layer is painted Evergreen. Final layer painted with a brush mix of Jade Green + Light Buttermilk (1:1).

Holly leaves- outline with Black Green Dip Dots-Using your stylus, add larger dots in groups of three’s and one’s here and there in the greenery under the hive. Then add smaller dots around the background. Green ornament-Gold, blue ornament-Silver, purple ornament-mix of Royal Fuchsia + Silver (1:1).

Cindy’s Tip: Always do your “dip dots” last on your painting as these take longer to dry. This way you won’t accidently swipe your hand through them.

Finishing Paint the sides and backs as you prefer. Remove all tracing lines. Following manufacturer’s instructions, varnish both sides of the ornaments. Tie a knot in each piece of jute cord, then loop through hole of each ornament for hanging. A final word from Cindy As do most artists, I love to share my work with others. But sometimes it can be hard to know what piece the recipient would most appreciate. Luckily, ornaments are one of those things that you can’t have too many of. Therefore, they make wonderful heirloom gifts to give to friends and family. I painted yearly ornaments for my nieces and nephews until they were grown. When it came time for them to move out on their own, they had a great start to decorating their own tree. By the way, ornaments also make cherished gifts for newlyweds!

Christmas Patches Original Design by MaryJo Tuttle These ornaments were a quick and fun project that will add a little charm to your tree, or as a gift for a friend. While I painted these on the tag shapes, they would also be cute as cutouts.

Surface x Tag Ornament 4-1/2” by 3” x 3, #31-L929, Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com Project Supplies x Linen Twine for Buttons x Small Gold Button x Star Button x Wire or Ribbon for hangers Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Asphaltum x Black Green x Cinnamon Drop x Dazzling Metallics Emperor’s Gold x Dried Clay x Foliage Green x Margarita x Marigold

x x x x x x x x x

Natural Buff Neons Fiery Red Oyster Beige Rookwood Red Sable Brown Tomato Red Warm Beige Warm White Watermelon Slice

Brushes: Dynasty Black Gold x AngOH VL]H ļ x )ODW :DVK VL]H ļ x Script Liner, size 5/0 x Shader, size 4, 8, 10 x Mezzaluna, size Small; Medium (used for drybrushing) Mediums x Americana Acrylic Spray Sealer/Finisher – Matte x DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer x Craft Glue Preparation Sand and seal the ornaments. Sand again when dry and wipe away sanding dust with a damp cloth. Transfer the patterns to the tags and basecoat as follows: Oyster Beige – tree, Santa’s hatband, bands on ornament, #6 squares on ornament Sable Brown – tree trunk Warm Beige – Santa’s face Cinnamon Drop – Santa’s hat, #1 squares on ornament Leaf Green - #2 squares on ornament Tomato Red - #3 squares on ornament Foliage Green - #4 squares on ornament Rookwood Red - #5 squares on ornament Emperor’s Gold – hanger at top of ornament Warm White – Santa’s beard Black Green – background (I did this after I had painted the designs) 34

Painting Instructions Tree Highlight the center of each tree section with a drybrush of Warm White. The lines on the top section are Cinnamon Drop, Sable Brown, and Leaf Green. The dots on the second section are Leaf Green and add a smaller dot of Tomato Red in the center of each green dot. The plaid lines on the third section are Leaf Green. The holly leaves on the bottom section are Foliage Green, outlined with Leaf Green and the berries are dots of Cinnamon Drop. Shade both down sides of the center line of the sections, and the outer sides of the outside sections with Leaf Green. Shade around the tree trunk with Asphaltum and drybrush a highlight in the center with Oyster Beige. The stitches down the middle of the shade lines are Emperor’s Gold. The outline between the sections is Lamp Black. The star is painted with Emperor’s Gold, thread linen twine through the holes, tie a bow, then glue it in place with craft glue. Ornament Highlight the middle of the bands and center of the #6 squares with Warm White. The holly leaves on the squares are Foliage Green, outlined with Leaf Green and the berries are dots of Cinnamon Drop. Shade around the #6 squares and both ends of the bands with Asphaltum. The wavy lines on the band are Leaf Green and the dots are Cinnamon Drop. Highlight the center of all red squares with Fiery Red. Highlight the center of all green squares with Margarita.

The lines on the #1 squares are Lamp Black; the dots on the #2 squares are Warm White; the stars on the #3 squares are Marigold; the lines on the #4 squares are Leaf Green; and the plaid on the #5 squares is Oyster Beige. Shade around all of the red squares with Antique Maroon; shade around the #2 green squares with Black Green; and shade around the #4 green squares with Leaf Green. Shade both sides of the top hanger, and at the bottom of the loop with Asphaltum. Highlight the top of the loop and center of the hanger with Marigold. Outline the hanger and loop with Lamp Black. The stitches between the patches and bands are Emperor’s Gold. Santa Shade Santa’s face under the hatband and above the nose with Dried Clay. Blush the cheeks and bottom of the nose with Watermelon Slice (this will take 2 applications on the cheeks). Highlight the center of the face and top of the nose with Natural Buff. The eyes are Lamp Black, and the eyebrows are Warm White. Add small dot highlights to the eyes and cheeks and a dash highlight on the nose with Warm White. Shade the outside edges and under the hat fold on the hatband with Asphaltum. Add a touch of Lamp Black to your brush and shade under the hat fold again. The wavy line on the hatband is Leaf Green and the dots are Cinnamon Drop. Highlight the center of each of the squares on the hat with a drybrush of Fiery Red (this may take a couple applications). The lines on the #1 squares are Lamp Black; the plaid lines on the #2 squares are Warm White; the dots on the #3 squares are Leaf Green; and the dots on the #4 squares are Emperor’s Gold. Shade around the squares and under the hat fold with Antique Maroon. Add a touch of Lamp Black to your brush and shade under the hat fold again. The stitches between the squares are Emperor’s Gold, then outline the hat and hatband with Lamp Black. Thread linen twine through the buttonholes, tie a bow, then glue it in place with craft glue.

Finishing Paint the background with Black Green (or, if you have already done this, give it another coat to clean up the edges around the designs. Line a wiggly line around the outside edge of the ornaments with Emperor’s Gold. Finish with several light coats of Americana Acrylic Spray Sealer/Finisher – Matte. Add wire or ribbons for hangers.

Line drawings at 100%.

Christmas Shovel Ornaments Original Design by Paola Bassan www.paolabassan.com info@paolabassan.com Christmas is my favorite holiday, every year I always create new ornaments to hang on my tree. Over the years they are becoming many… and finally I have the excuse to be able to buy another Christmas tree!

Surface Wooden shovel H 8” x 3-Ɨ”, #31-L930 Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com -or- for Italian and European customers https://outofthewood.it Project Supplies x Fine Grit Sandpaper x Usual Acrylic Tools x White and Black Graphite Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Berry Cobbler x Black Plum x Blue Mist x Burnt Orange x Fiery Red Neon x Burnt Sienna x Burnt Umber x Camel x Country Red x Foliage Green x Hauser Medium Green

x x x x x x x x x x

Honey Brown Lamp Black Light Buttermilk Moon Yellow Natural Buff Open Water Plantation Pine Tropical Blue Vintage Pink Warm White

Mediums: Decoart x Ice Crystal Glamour Dust Paint x DecoArt Matte Spray Sealer or Brush on Varnish of Choice x Galaxy Glitter Red Nebula x Multi-Purpose Sealer Brushes x Flat #10 series 1370 Jo Sonja’s x Maxine’s Mop #1/2, #3/4 series 270 by Loew Cornell x Oval drybrush #4, #12 series 2010 by Jo Sonja’s x Short Liner #10/0 series 1360 by Jo Sonja’s x Square Wash #1/2, series 1375 by Jo Sonja’s

Preparation If using a wood surface, sand lightly with a fine grit sandpaper. Remove all dust with a tack cloth. Seal the wood with DecoArt All Purpose Sealer and let dry. Sand again with very fine sandpaper to knock down any of the raised grain. If using an MDF surface, do NOT sand; just apply sealer to all sides and allow to dry completely.

Painting Instructions Shovel Paint the entire shovel with two coats of Light Buttermilk and let it dry. Paint the upper handle and the central part with Lamp Black. Stripes with Country Red Use white graphite to transfer only the main pattern outlines. Basecoat Santa Ornament Glove: base Blue Mist, top edge Camel Hat: Foliage Green, hat band Country Red Face: Natural Buff Beard: Light Buttermilk Moustache: Warm White Snowman Ornament Glove: base Country Red, top edge Camel Scarf: Blue Mist Hat: Foliage Green, hat band Camel Snowman: Light Buttermilk Ginger Ornament Glove: base Foliage Green, top edge Camel Ginger: Honey Brown Bow: Country Red

Shading & Highlights Shovel Shade the Light Buttermilk sections with Open Water and lightly darken with Tropical Blue. Paint the fine lines with Foliage Green. To add a touch of sparkle, topcoat Country Red stripes with one coat of Galaxy Glitter Red Nebula Highlight the upper part of the handle with Warm White and paint four dots on the side. Santa Ornaments Mitten: Shade with Open Water, slightly darken with Tropical Blue. Drybrush highlights the middle of the mitten and thumb with Light Buttermilk. Basecoat snowflake with Warm White. To add sparkle, paint one coat with Glamour Dust Ice Crystal. Shade the sides and bottom edge of the cuff first with Honey Brown, lightly deepen with Burnt Umber. Highlight the top edge with Moon Yellow. Add thin, vertical lines using Light Buttermilk. Hat: Shade the right and left sides of the brim with Black Plum. Drybrush highlights the center with Neons Fiery Red. Shade base of hat and bottom all the tail first with Hauser Medium Green then deepen with Plantation Pine. Drybrush highlights the middle with Moon Yellow. Paint pom pom with Light Buttermilk and add dots on the hat with Country Red. Face: Shade along top of forehead with Honey Brown. Paint the cheeks with a light float and Vintage Pink. Base nose and mouth Vintage Pink. Shad the left side of the nose with Berry Cobbler. 42

Highlight tip of nose, add hair, and dots on the cheeks and in the eyes with Warm White. Beard: Shade along the bottom with Honey Brown. Drybrush highlights in the middle with Warm White. Add thin vertical lines with Honey Brown. Snowman Ornament Mitten: Shade with Black Plum. Drybrush highlights in the middle of the mitten and finger with Neons Fiery Red. Paint snowflake Warm White. To add a touch of sparkle, topcoat with one coat of Glamour Dust Ice Crystal. Shade the sides and top of the cuff first with Honey Brown, then lightly darken with Burnt Umber. Highlight the lower part with Moon yellow. Add vertical thin lines with Light Buttermilk. Scarf: Shade the lower edge and the fold with Open Water. Slightly darken with Tropical blue. Highlight the top with Light Buttermilk. Paint the small snowflakes with liner and Warm White. Hat: Shade the bottom, right, and left sides of the brim with Honey Brown and lightly deepen with Burnt Umber. Highlight along the top with Moon Yellow. Shade along the bottom of all folds and the base of the hat (against brim) first with Hauser Medium Green. Deepen with Plantation Pine. Drybrush highlights in the middle with Moon Yellow. Basecoat pom pom with Light Buttermilk. Add dots on the hat with Open Water. Snowman: Shade the top of the hands and head with Honey Brown. Drybrush highlights in the middle of the head and highlight bottom of hands with Warm White. Paint the cheeks with a light float of Vintage Pink. Paint the nose with a light float of Burnt Orange. Eyes, mouth, and eyebrows are Lamp Black. Add hair, dots on cheeks and eyes with Warm White.

Ginger Ornament Mitten: Shade with Hauser Medium Green and lightly strengthen with Plantation Pine. Drybrush highlights in the middle of the mitten and finger with Moon Yellow. Paint snowflake Warm White and add sparkle with a coat of Ice Crystal Glamour Dust. Shade the sides and top of the cuff with Honey Brown and lightly strengthen with Burnt Umber. Highlight along the bottom with Moon Yellow. Add thin, vertical lines with Light Buttermilk. Ginger: Shade around bottom of head and the upper part of shoulders with Burnt Sienna, then deepen with Burnt Umber. Highlight along the bottom of the hands with a float of Moon Yellow. Drybrush the middle of the head with Moon Yellow. Eyes, eyebrows, and mouth are Lamp Black. Paint the nose with Vintage Pink, shade the left side with Berry Cobbler, and highlight the right side with Light Buttermilk. Add highlight on the tip of the nose, line icing, and add dots on cheeks and eyes with Warm White. Bow: Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Neons Fiery Red. Finishing With an old brush or an old toothbrush, dilute Warm White and gently splatter over each ornament. Seal the project with several light coats of DecoArt Matte Spray Sealer. You can also finish your project with a brush on matte varnish if you prefer. A word of encouragement from Paola Dip the brush in the magic and let the Christmas atmosphere fill your heart with joy and love. Thanks for painting with me! Paola

Line drawings at 100%.

COUNTRY HOLLY ORNAMENT Original Design by Margaret Riley designsbymargaret51@gmail.com There is nothing like having a 3-D ornament adorning your tree. If you don’t have room for a tree, hang your ornament(s) on doorknobs, whether it be a wall cabinet, an entertainment center, or a regular door. You’ll see just how easy this ornament is and could be a great one for “tweens” to do and contribute to the holiday decorating. Who would have thought you could do dimension with paper?!!

Surface x Tag 3-1/2” x 4-3/8” (wood) Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Avocado x Cobblestone x Cool White x Hauser Dark Green x Holly Green x Matcha Green x Mississippi Mud x Pebble x Santa Red Mediums x DecoArt Satin Sealer (spray) Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Shader No. 4 and 6 Soft Grip x Scrumbler No. 5 Moderna x 1” foam brush Other x Acrylic Paper 6” x 8” (thin watercolor paper, or heavy cardstock) x Black Fine Line Permanent Marker (for tracing) x DecoArt Foam Daubers (used to apply paint to stencil opening) x Fine Grit Sandpaper x Glue - clear drying (Fusion is excellent) x Hanging Ribbon and Bow, approximately 14” x Hole Punch 1/4" x Holly and Berries Stencil (Cupboard Distributing 09-19260) x Masking Tape (preferably Frog brand tape) x Optional: Snowflake Stencil (lots to choose from on Amazon) x Palette (for acrylics) x Paper Towels x Ruler x Scissors x Water basin x X-acto Knife TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: Select a brush that accommodates the area. Use 1” brush to do background on tag. To do stenciling, load dauber into paint. Tap onto paper toweling to remove excess paint. Lightly tap or swirl on paint to stencil openings. If need be, do it in layers to avoid bleeding under stencil.

SHIPLAP BACKGROUND: Using both Pebble and Cobblestone, streak on these paints making sure the entire surface has solid coverage. Sand, if needed, and wipe dust off. Repeat with a second coat, if needed. Allow to dry. To create the groove lines, measure vertical lines 15/16” apart. Mark lines with a chalk pencil. Place masking tape vertically onto the tag. Place the next piece of masking tape adjacent to the first piece allowing 1/16” space between tapes (for groove lines). Repeat to create each groove line. Paint Pebble onto 1/16” openings. Allow to dry. This will seal the masking tape so no bleeding of paint will occur under the tape. Apply two coats of Mississippi Mud to each stripe. Remove tape pulling the tape toward the Mississippi Mud. Using the liner brush, add some Mississippi Mud woodgrain lines randomly and different lengths. Note: If you wish to paint some holly leaves behind the 3-dimensional leaves, do it at this time. But it is not necessary if you do a sufficient number of 3dimensional leaves. If you do decide to paint some, just use the stencil as a template to trace the leaves onto your surface. Paint them Hauser Dark Green or Avocado. There is no need to shade or highlight. HOLLY LEAVES: Using the stencil as a template, trace onto paper approximately 15 holly leaves making some large, some medium, and some small. Paint each leaf Hauser Dark Green. On the left side of each leaf, float Avocado. On each vein line, float Holly Green. Lastly, float Matcha Green on the right side of each leaf. Allow to dry. Carefully cut out each leaf. Using X-acto knife, lightly cut/score a center vein and two veins coming out on each side of the center vein being sure to not cut through the paper. Fold slightly to give a more 3-dimensional appearance. Set aside. BERRIES: Paint a 1” x 2” piece of paper in Santa Red. Using hole punch, punch out 12-15 circles to use for berries. Float Antique Maroon on one side of each berry. Add a dot of Cool White to each dot for a reflection. (To easily paint onto punched out berries, place on double-sided tape or a piece of masking tape in a roll.)

SNOWFLAKES: Using dauber and Cool White, dip into paint and tap onto paper toweling to remove excess paint. Tap or swirl on paint over the stencil opening to achieve a snowflake. Add three snowflakes to the upper right area of the tag. ASSEMBLING: Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray a sealer on the tag. Lay out all leaves and berries to be sure the highlighting is on the same side. Using glue, start approximately 1-1/2” from the top and glue the bottom point of the leaf to tag. Use larger leaves at the top, middle sized leaves in the center, and smaller leaves at the bottom being careful not to cover snowflakes. Continue gluing on leaves, making it appealing to the eye. Refer to the photo, if needed, for placement of leaves and berries. Glue on berries randomly. Finishing Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray a sealer on the entire surface, front and back. Allow to dry completely. With about 6” of the ribbon, tie a bow and glue to the base of holly leaves. Use the same ribbon or use a contrasting ribbon for the hanger.

COUNTRY WREATH ORNAMENT Original Design by Margaret Riley designsbymargaret51@gmail.com Christmas isn’t Christmas unless you have a wreath hanging somewhere. Let’s hang this wreath upon your Christmas tree. Many years ago, trees were trimmed to be more uniform in size. Those twigs that were thrown to the side were woven into a wreath as things were not wasted in those days. This wreath can be used year after year.

Surface: x 3-1/2” x 4-3/8” wooden tag Project Supplies x Antique Maroon x Avocado x Cobblestone x Cool White x Dragon Fruit x Hauser Dark Green x Matcha Green x Mississippi Mud x Pebble x Santa Red Mediums x DecoArt Satin Sealer (brush-on or spray) Brushes:Royal & Langnickel x 1” foam brush x Round No. 4 Soft Grip x Scrumbler No. 5 Moderna x Shader No. 4 Soft Grip Other x DecoArt Foam Daubers (used to apply paint to stencil opening) x Fine Grit Sandpaper x Graphite Paper and Red Ink Pen x Masking Tape (preferably Frog brand tape) x Optional: Snowflake Stencil (lots to choose from on Amazon) x Palette (for acrylics) x Paper Towels x Ruler x Stylus x Tracing Paper and Pencil x Water Basin x White Chalk Pencil TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: Select a brush that accommodates the area. Use 1” brush to do background on tag. To do stenciling, load dauber into paint. Tap onto paper toweling to remove excess paint. Lightly tap or swirl on paint to stencil openings. If need be, do it in layers to avoid bleeding under stencil.

Instructions SHIPLAP BACKGROUND: Using both Pebble and Cobblestone, streak on these paints making sure the entire surface has solid coverage. Sand, if needed, and wipe dust off. Repeat with a second coat, if needed. Allow to dry. To create the groove lines, measure vertical lines 1-5/16” apart. Mark lines with a chalk pencil. Place masking tape vertically onto the tag. Place the next piece of masking tape adjacent to first piece allowing 1/16” space between tapes (for groove lines). Repeat to create each groove line. Paint Pebble onto 1/16” openings. Allow to dry. This will seal the masking tape so no bleeding of paint will occur under the tape. Apply two coats of Mississippi Mud to each stripe. Remove tape pulling the tape toward the Mississippi Mud. Using the liner brush, add some Mississippi Mud woodgrain lines randomly and different lengths. Trace pattern. Lay graphite between project surface and pattern. Using a red ink pen, trace the wreath onto the center area. (Trace the ribbon after the wreath is painted.) WREATH: Using scrumbler, dip into Avocado, and tap entire wreath. While still wet, tap Hauser Dark Green on left sides. Tap Matcha Green on right sides. If basecoat has dried, add some of the base color to achieve blending of colors together. BERRIES: Using stylus, randomly add Santa Red berries. BOW: Base coat bow Santa Red. With Antique Maroon, shade the inner area of the loop, under and around the knot, on the left side of the left loop, and along the left side of the tendrils (ribbon ends). Add some shading for gathers and a crease on the knot. Highlight opposite of all shading with Dragon Fruit. SNOW: Stencil on snowflakes wherever it looks good to you using Cool White and snowflake stencil. Try to stencil on an odd number of snowflakes as an odd number is more pleasing to the eye. Finishing: If desired, add some more Cool White snowflakes with a liner brush. Make a horizontal line and a vertical line the same length intersecting in the center. Where the two lines intersect, add an “X”. Using a stylus, add dots at each end of lines and in the center. Using stylus, add some “dots” of snow randomly. Following manufacturer’s instructions, brush on or spray a sealer over the entire surface, front, and back. 53

Line drawings at 100%.

ICE SKATE CHRISTMAS ORNAMENT Original Design by Margaret Riley

Swirl and twirl your brush like a professional ice skater to create this skate filled with sweets and foliage. When skates are retired, some people paint on them or keep them for future family members. But there is an elegance to ice skates that one has to keep them forever. This Christmas ornament displays the shiplap look in the background using masking tape! Let’s get started being a graceful painter on a plain surface that will transform into a winning ornament.

Surface x Oval Approximate 6” x 8” (purchased at a local Dollar Tree, jute hanger was included) Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Avocado x Burlap x Burnt Sienna x Cobblestone x Cool White x Espresso x Hauser Dark Green x Holly Green

x x x x x x x

Lamp Black Mississippi Mud Pebble Rookwood Red Santa Red Slate Grey Zinc

Paint: DecoArt Extreme Sheen x Sterling Silver Mediums x DecoArt Satin Sealer (varnish) Brushes:Royal & Langnickel x 1” foam brush x Round No. 4 Soft Grip x Scrumbler 1/8” 3mm Moderna x Shader Nos. 4 and 8 Soft Grip x Short Liner No. 20/0 Soft Grip Other x Chalk Pencil (white works best) x DecoArt Foam Daubers x DecoArt Stencil Lettering (on a ring) x Fine Grit Sandpaper x Graphite Paper and Red Ink Pen x Masking Tape (preferably Frog brand tape) x Optional: Snowflake Stencil (lots to choose from on Amazon) x Palette (for acrylics) x Paper Towels x Ruler x Stencil designs are up to you (I used DecoArt Classic quatrefoil) x Stylus x Tracing Paper and Pencil x Water Basin Note: Select a brush that accommodates the area. The foam brush is used to paint on the solid part of the background. Use chalk pencil to draw in a straight line for placement of stenciled letters. Wipe off chalk line when letters are painted and dry.

Instructions SHIPLAP BACKGROUND: Using both Pebble and Cobblestone, streak on these paints making sure the entire surface has solid coverage. Sand, if needed, and wipe dust off. Repeat with a second coat, if needed. Allow to dry. To create the groove lines, measure vertical lines 1-5/16” apart. Mark lines with a chalk pencil. Place masking tape vertically onto the tag. Place the next piece of masking tape adjacent to the first piece allowing 1/16” space between tapes (for groove lines). Repeat to create each groove line. Paint Pebble onto 1/16” openings. Allow to dry. This will seal the masking tape so no bleeding of paint will occur under the tape. Apply two coats of Mississippi Mud to each stripe. Remove tape pulling the tape toward the Mississippi Mud. Using the liner brush, add some Mississippi Mud woodgrain lines randomly and different lengths. Get creative and add a knothole, if desired. Trace pattern. Lay graphite between project surface and pattern. Using red ink pen, trace skate onto the center with ice skate blade approximately 3/8” from the bottom of the plaque. STENCILING ON BACKGROUND: Choose a stencil design that will fit on the right side of the plaque approximately 2” from the edge. Using a dauber, touch into the Espresso. On your palette, tap dauber up and down to evenly distribute paint over the foam end. Touch the dauber a few times onto a paper towel so the dauber is not overloaded. Softly tap on Espresso or apply in a circular motion across the surface of the stencil. Allow to dry. Stencil on snowflakes wherever it looks good to you. Stencil the word “snow” as shown using dauber and Espresso. When dry, tap on some Cool White patches of snow on lettering using round brush (refer to photo for placement). SKATE BLADE: Base coat blade in Slate Grey. Allow to dry. Apply Sterling Silver over Slate Grey. Float Cool White on front and top of blade. Float Lamp Black below heel and sole on center blade support. SKATE SOLE AND HEEL: Paint sole and heel Lamp Black. Add a Slate Grey line at the bottom of the heel using a liner brush. Thin a drop of Slate Grey with water making it very, very thin. Brush this mixture over the heel. If it is too prominent, blot with a paper towel. SKATE SHOE: Base entire shoe area Cool White. To create a worn look, float a very light wash of Burlap over the entire shoe area being careful not to make it appear dirty. Using Pebble and scrumbler brush, apply along the toe and heel stitching line. Wipe out brush on a paper towel and soften out this paint to appear that the skate has been well used. Using Mississippi Mud and scrumbler brush, apply to the right side of the skate for a shadow. Wipe out brush on paper towel and soften out paint to avoid a harsh line of color. Paint shoe lace holes in Mississippi Mud using liner or tip of round brush. Paint three metal hooks Zinc, highlight with a touch of Cool White. 57

Paint all the laces Santa Red. Using liner brush, add a touch of Rookwood Red to the base of each lace (going into the lace hole). Float on Cool White to the tops of each lace. Load liner brush with Burlap to add a broken line (stitching) along the heel area. Do the same along the lace holes and metal hooks (refer to photo). CANDY CANES: Basecoat with Cool White. Shade along right-side Slate Grey. Paint wide and narrow candy stripes Santa Red. (refer to photo for placement of stripes). Using liner, add a Cool White line down center for a reflection of light. FIR BRANCHES AND BERRY BRANCHES: Using liner brush, paint stems in Hauser Dark Green. Create the first layer of fir needles with Hauser Dark Green tapering from the bottom to the top. Repeat with a layer of Avocado. For highlights, randomly touch on the upper needles with Holly Green. Add some Cool White “snow” to some of the needles. Line the berry branches with Hauser Dark Green. Add a touch of Snow White here and there for snow. Using a stylus or the handle end of a brush, add Santa Red berries. Using liner brush, carefully add a small dot of Cool White on the left side of each berry. GINGERBREAD COOKIE Basecoat cookie Burnt Sienna. Add a Cool White highlight on the left side of head and left arm. Using liner brush, add Lamp Black mouth. Dip dot Lamp Black eyes and buttons using small tip of the stylus (or a toothpick). Line Cool White icing on head and both arms with liner brush. Load liner brush with Santa Red to paint the bow. When dry, add Cool White over the bow but allowing Santa Red to show here and there. Finishing If desired, add some more Cool White snowflakes with a liner brush. To achieve this: Make a horizontal line and a vertical line the same length intersecting in the center. Where the two lines intersect, add an “X”. Using a stylus, add dots at each end of lines and in the center. Allow dots to dry completely before sealing. Following manufacturer’s instructions, brush on or spray a sealer over the entire surface, front and back.

Line drawings at 100%.

Dot Art Christmas Decorations Original Design by Effie Carayannis This project teaches you how to use dotting tools with acrylic paints and mediums to create stunning symmetrical designs.

Surface Tree Ornament x 3 MDF; 3 ¾ inches x 2 ½ inches Star Ornament x 3 MDF; 2 ¾ inches diameter Measurements are approximate. Tree and star cut-outs can be purchased from art and craft supply stores. Project Supplies x Base Coating Brush (Flat) ½ inch x Fine grade sandpaper x Mandala stencils (variety) available from - Happy Dotting Company x Chalk pencil x Mandala dotting tool set-8 double ended tools to create 16 different sized dots available from; www.diymandalastones.com x Stylus x Paper towels x Water Bin x Eraser x Q tips x Length of gold ribbon for hanging decorations Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Lamp (Ebony) Black x Pink Chiffon x Blush Pink x Royal Fuchsia x Snow (Titanium) White x Alizarin Crimson x Foliage Green

x x x x x x x

Pistachio Mint Green Tree Festive Green Sapphire Winter Blue Deep Midnight Blue Ultramarine Blue

Other DecoArt Products x Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer x Pouring Medium x Traditions Heavy Gel Medium x Dazzling Metallics Splendid Gold x Americana Gloss Spray Sealer Preparation and Background Apply two coats of sealer using the flat brush, allowing it to dry, and sanding well after each coat. Basecoat the background with three coats of Lamp (Ebony) Black, allowing drying time between coats.

Transferring Place the selected stencils (referring to the line drawing for placement) on the decorations and outline them with the chalk pencil. Then, use the chalk pencil to connect the bridges after you remove the stencil. If you don’t have the stencils, you can use a compass and a ruler or anything you may have that creates symmetrical outlines.

Helpful Tips • Dip into the paint, do not scrape excess paint. • If the paint is too thick or too runny you will not achieve a perfect round dot. For thicker paint add pouring medium, a little at a time, and mix it in well until you get the right consistency. If the paint is too runny, add heavy gel medium, a little at a time until you have the right consistency. • Apply each dot with the tool at a 90-degree angle. • To create the dots using the larger sized tools press lightly onto the surface but not all the way down to touch it. When using a small sized tool or a stylus, you may apply the dots by lightly touching the surface. • Take your time, allow the paint time to lift off the tool, this way you will achieve a round raised dot. • Always reload your dotting tool (unless the pattern says otherwise) after each dot, and then wipe clean after each application with a paper towel. • Wipe off any mistakes with a damp Q tip, let the area dry and reapply. • Turn the surface so you are facing straight down at where you are placing the next dot. Painting Instructions Pink Tree and Star I have used the same design for the tree and the star. Start from the center of the ornament with a single dot. Then move to the adjacent row around the center dot. Next, move to the following row and continue as such. When you reach the cutout edges, stop, then continue the design where the edge of the decoration extends back out. The instructions include the color used and the size of the tool. The size of the tool is marked on both ends of each tool as all are different sizes.

Center dot -Pink Chiffon using tool no.7 2nd row -Pink Chiffon using tool no.4 3rd row - Blush Pink using tool no.5 4th row - Royal Fuchsia using tool no.3 This is a smaller dot placed in between each previous dot in row 3 5th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.5 6th row - Alizarin Crimson using tool no.5 7th row - Royal Fuchsia/ Titanium (Snow) White 1:1 using tool no.8 8th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.5 9th row - Blush Pink using tool no.5 10th row - Alizarin Crimson using tool no.8. Royal Fuchsia using tool no.3 This is a smaller dot placed in between each previous dot in row 10 11th row - Royal Fuchsia using tool no.9 12th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.10 13th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.9 The dots on the star on the top of the tree and around the base of the tree use Titanium (Snow) White with tool no.4. Look over your work, if you see that there are any spaces between dots that need filling. Place some small dots using tool no. 2 or 3, keeping the design symmetrical.

Green Tree and Star Again, I have used the same design for the tree and the star. This time the center dot is placed at the lowest point of the decorations. The first row of dots around the center dot is the only row that completes a circle. The rest of the rows stop at the edge of the cutouts then continue their design where the edge of the decoration extends back out. Just follow the white chalk lines and stop, and then start where they do. The instructions start from the center dot, then the row around this and so on. They include the color used and the size of the tool. The size of the tool is marked on both ends of each tool as each end is a different size. Centre dot -Foliage Green using tool no.7 2nd row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.4 3rd row – Pistachio Mint using tool no.3 4th row – Green Tree using tool no.5 5th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.6 6th row – Festive Green using tool no.6. Use the n0.3 tool for the two dots between each of the previous dots in the same row. 7th row – Pistachio Mint using tool no.7 8th row - Green Tree using tool no.6. Use the n0.4 tool for the two dots between each of the previous dots in the same row. 9th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.7. Use the n0.3 tool for the two dots between each of the previous dots in the same row. 10th row - Festive Green using tool no.5 11th row – Festive Green using tool no.3 12th row – Pistachio Mint using tool no.9 13th row – Green Tree using tool no.7 14th row - Foliage Green using tool no.5 15th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.6. Use the n0.3 tool for the two dots between each of the previous dots in the same row. 16th row - Festive Green using tool no.3 17th row - Foliage Green using tool no.3 For the star on the top of the tree apply Titanium (Snow) White dots using tool no.4. Look over your work, if you see that there are any spaces between dots that need filling. Place some small dots using tool no. 2 or 3, keeping the design symmetrical.

Blue Tree and Star Again, I have used the same design for the tree and the star. This time I have not used a center dot for my anchor point. I’ve used the smallest row of dots as my starting point. The rest of the rows stop at the edge of the cutouts then continue their design where the edge of the decoration extends back out. Just follow the white chalk lines and stop and then start where they do. The instructions include the color used and the size of the tool. The size of the tool is marked on both ends of each tool as each end is a different size. 1st row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.4 (Reference photo) 2nd row – Sapphire using tool no.4. Use Winter Blue with the n0.2 tool for the dots between each of the previous dots in the same row. 3rd row – Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.5. 4th row –Winter Blue/Deep Midnight Blue 3:1 using tool no.6. Place two dots above these with the same color using no.3 tool. 5th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.5. 6th row – Winter Blue/Deep Midnight Blue 3:1 using tool no.7. 7th row – Winter Blue/Deep Midnight Blue 3:1 using tool no.5. 8th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.6.

9th row – Sapphire using tool no.8. Using the same color with the n0.2 tool, place a dot between each of the previous dots in the same row. 10th row - Snow (Titanium) White using tool no.9. Using Winter Blue/Deep Midnight Blue 3:1 with the n0.2 tool, place a dot between each of the previous dots in the same row. 11th row – Ultramarine Blue using tool no. 4 12th row – Winter Blue/Deep Midnight Blue 3:1 using tool no.4 13th row - Winter Blue using tool no.4 14th row - Ultramarine Blue using tool no. 3 For the star on the top of the tree apply Titanium (Snow) White dots using tool no.4 Look over your work, if you see that there are any spaces between dots that need filling. Place some small dots using tool no. 2 or 3, keeping the design symmetrical.

Finishing: Paint side edges of all ornaments Splendid Gold. When dry, erase any visible chalk lines, and then apply several light coats of Gloss Spray Sealer allowing drying time between coats. Use the gold ribbon to hang the decorations.

FOLK NUTCRACKERS Original Design by Anita Campanella Facebook - Anita Campanella Instagram - Anitacampanellacreazioni You Tube- Anita Campanella Artist Etsy – AnitaCampanellaArt I love designing and painting my nutcrackers. I find it to be an endless classic for Christmas.I have designed and painted many patterns on wood, which you can find in my Etsy shop. This time I wanted to paint them on round ornaments. I am sure they will add a magical touch to our Christmas tree and, if designed for a gift to a dear friend, they will be wonderful with personalized message on the back of the ornament. Welcome to my world.

Supplies Plastic Round Ornaments 4” Diameter Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Rose - (Country Red, Snow White, Burnt Orange 2:1:1) x Antique White x Burnt Sienna x Buttermilk x Coral x Dark Chocolate x Grape Juice - (Dioxazine Purple, slate Grey, Payne’s Grey 4:1:1) x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk x Light French Blue - (Williamsburg Blue, Slate Grey, Snow White 1:1:Touch) x Neon Fiery Red x Neutral Grey x Peacock Teal x Primary Red x Primary Yellow x Raw Sienna x Soft Black Mediums x Decoart Multi-Purpose Sealer DS-17 Brushes: Dynasty x Black Gold Angle 206A: ½”, ¼” x Black Gold Liner 206L 10/0 x Black Gold Round 206R: # 2 x Black Gold Shader 206S: # 4 x Blue Ice SC32 Flat 1” x Dry Brush 200, #12 x Mezzaluna - Small x Mop 400: 3/4 “, 1/2” x Stencil Stippler: 1/2” Miscellaneous Supplies x Alcohol x Ball Stylus x Black Graphite Paper x Decoart Americana Matte Spray DAS-13 x Hot Glue

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Muslin-like Fabric Cut 3 strips 1”x 12” Natural Hemp or Jute 5” x 3 Paper Palette Stripes Stencil

Preparation With a cotton swab soaked in alcohol, wipe the entire surface of the plastic ornaments. Allow to dry well and coat with Multi-Purpose Sealer using 1” Flat Brush. Apply at least two coats, drying thoroughly between coats. With the same brush, apply at least three coats of Light Buttermilk (drying between each application). Transfer pattern using black graphite paper and a Stylus. General Instructions To make these ornaments, I used the #4 Flat for the larger areas, #2 Flat for the smaller areas, and the #2 Round for details such as the moustache. The shadows and lights are all created by floating technique, unless otherwise specified. To float, I use the Angular brushes and adapt the size to the area. My floating is always followed with a Mop Brush. Lightly dab along the outer part of the floated area and then move slowly towards the heart of the shading or highlighting. I find that the Mop helps in softening the highlights and shadows. I use the ¾ "Mop to soften the larger areas and the ½" Mop for those smaller areas. Instructions The background striping is created using the Striped Stencil, the Stippler Stencil Brush ½”, and Peacock Teal.

In a glass jar mix Coral and water 1: 2 and dip the strips of fabric, cut previously. Make sure the color covers every part of the cloth and let them dry on a dry paper towel.

When perfectly dry, stencil stripes using the Stippler Stencil Brush and Peacock Teal.

CORAL NUTCRACKER Basecoat: HAT, JACKET: Coral SHOULDER PADS, TOP OF HAT: Grape Juice COLLAR, HAT BRAID TRIM: Primary Red TEETH, EYES: Base (background) color IRIS: Light French Blue HAIR, BEARD, MUSTACHE, EYEBROWS, SECTION BETWEEN THE TEETH, PUPIL: Soft Black FACE: Antique White Outline eyes and nose using the Liner and Dark Chocolate. Add the separation line between the teeth using the Liner and Soft Black. Float the shadows along the extreme right / left sides of the hat, along the jacket close to the sleeves and collar, with the Angle Brush ½” and Grape Juice.

Continue shading Grape Juice on the sleeves close to the shoulder pads and on the hat below the trim band. Highlight trim band with Liner and Light Buttermilk Deepen all shading with Soft Black. With ½ Angle and Grape Juice, shade the bottom edge of the top of the hat. Highlight the center of both sections of the collar using Neon Fiery Red and Mezzaluna. Immediately brighten highlights with Liner and Light Buttermilk. Shade along the top and sides of the face with 1/2 Angle and Raw Sienna. Using ¼ Angle and Raw Sienna, shade below eyebrows. Load toe of ¼ Angle with Dark Chocolate to shade corners of the eyelids. Highlight the center of the eyelids with Light Buttermilk using the Mezzaluna. Using ¼ Angle float Soft Black along top of eyes (below eyelids). Load 12 Dry Brush with a brush mix of Primary Red and Antique Rose to drybrush cheeks. Shade nose along the left side with Raw Sienna. When dry, deepen with Dark Chocolate. Shade down the right side with a mix of Raw Sienna and Antique Rose. Shade outer sides of teeth with Grape Juice, then darken with Soft Black.

PURPLE NUTCRACKER Basecoat: HAT JACKET: Grape Juice SHOULDER PADS: Primary Yellow (Soft Black details) SCARF, HAT BAND: Primary Red SECTION BETWEEN THE TEETH: Soft Black TEETH, EYES: base (background) color. FACE: Antique White HAIR, MUSTACHE, EYEBROWS: Dark Chocolate IRIS: Light French Blue PUPIL: Soft Black 73

Outline the eyes and nose with the Liner and Dark Chocolate. Line between the teeth with the Liner and Soft Black. Highlight the center of the hat, both on the top and on the brim, using the Mezzaluna Brush and Light Buttermilk. Highlight the center of both sides of the collar, along the center of the scarf, and along the center of the headband with the Mezzaluna Brush and Neon Fiery Red. Shade the jacket close to the sleeves and collar, both sides of the hat, and on the sleeves close to the shoulder pads using ½ Angle and Soft Black. Shade both sides of both sections of the collar, the headband on the hat, and the scarf with the ¼” Angle and Soft Black. Shade hair next to face, along the bottom edge of the mustache and eyebrows with Lamp Black. Shade outer sides of the shoulder pads with the ½ Angle and Burnt Sienna. Shade around the face with ½ Angle and Raw Sienna. Using ¼ Angle and Raw Sienna, shade below the eyebrows. With the same brush and Dark Chocolate shade the corners of the eyelids. Load toe of ¼ Angle with Soft Black to float along top of eyes (below eyelids). Highlight the center of the eyelids with the Light Buttermilk using the Mezzaluna Brush.

Cheeks are a drybrush with a brush mix of Primary Red and Antique Rose using 12 Dry Brush. On the nose, shade left side with 1/4 Angle and Raw Sienna. When dry, deepen with Dark Chocolate. Shade the right side with a mix of Raw Sienna and Antique Rose. The shadows on the teeth, along the right / left sides are first with Grape Juice, let dry, then darken with Soft Black.

RED NUTCRACKER Basecoat: HAT, JACKET: Primary Red COLLAR, SHOULDER PADS: Primary Yellow FACE: Antique White TEETH, EYES: basic (background) color. IRIS: Light French Blue SECTION BETWEEN THE TEETH, PUPIL: Soft Black BEARD, HAIR, MUSTACHE, EYEBROW: Buttermilk Outline all the details with the Liner brush and Dark Chocolate, except the teeth and the raised part of the collar, which are Soft Black. Highlight the center of the hat, jacket, and sleeves, with the Mezzaluna Brush and Neon Fiery Red. Shade the jacket next to the collar and sleeves, on the sleeves close to the shoulder pads and along the underside of the hat using 1/2 Angle and Soft Black. Shade the outer sides of the shoulder pads and collar with the ¼ Angle and Burnt Sienna. Shade around the perimeter of the face using 1/2 Angle and Raw Sienna. Switch to ¼ Angle to shade below eyebrows. Load ¼ Angle with Dark Chocolate to shade the corners of the eyelids. With the same brush float Soft Black along the top of the eye, below eyelids. Highlight the center of the eyelids with the Light Buttermilk and the Mezzaluna Brush. Drybrush cheeks with a brush mix of Primary Red and Antique Rose using #12 Dry Brush. Shade the left side of the nose with ¼ Angle and, when dry, deepen with Dark Chocolate. Shade down the right side with a mix of Raw Sienna and Antique Rose. Shade outer sides of teeth first with Grape Juice, then once dry, reinforce with Soft Black.

Shade hair next to the face, bottom and top edge of beard, and bottom edge of mustache and eyebrows with Neutral Gray. Once dry, reinforce all shading with Soft Black. SHADING AND FINAL DETAILS Float shading along the perimeter of the background using ½ Angle and Peacock Teal. When dry, reinforce with Soft Black. All lettering is created using 2 Round and Soft Black. Seal and protect with DecoArt Americana Matte Spray following manufacturer’s instructions. Tie the natural cording to the ornaments with a knot. With the previously decorated fabric, create bows and attach them with hot glue. Happy Painting!

Line drawings at 100%.

Gnome Alone

Original Design by Susan V. Cochrane What to do? These guys are feeling festive, but they could use a few buddies!

Surface Snowglobe Ornament, Item No. 31-L704, www.cdwood.com Project Supplies x Basic acrylic painting supplies x Craft Glue x DecoArt Americana Duraclear Varnish (Matte) x Miracle Compressed Sponges, one or two cut to 1” x 1” approx., www.dickblick.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Burnt Umber x Deep Flesh (Dried Clay) x Khaki Tan x Lamp Black x Mistletoe Green x Napa Red x Neutral Grey x Olive Green x Warm White Brushes: Royal & Langnickel, Majestic x Angular Shader ½”, Series R4160 x Rake ¼”, Series R4730 x Liner 5/0, Series R4595 x Shaders 2,4, 6,10, Series R4150 Royal Paint Brushes x Deerfoot Stippler ¼”, Series 660 General Instructions All base coats are solid. Erase transfer lines as you go. All floating is done with a double loaded brush. Use small amounts of paint. Apply several sheer floats to gradually build up shading and highlighting. Painting For all ornaments: Base coat all areas but the two horizontal bands dividing the sections with Neutral Grey. Sponge Warm White all over these same areas. Lightly flyspeck Lamp Black all over. Transfer the seams in the blocks and lightly line them with Lamp Black. Float Warm White to highlight the edges of the blocks next to the lines, or along the top or bottom, or down one or both sides. Apply a light stipple using Warm White on all the blocks. It is ok if some of the stippling obscures the block lines.

Globe – Pattern #1 Gnome: Transfer the gnome. Rake the beard with Mistletoe Green for the first coat. Go top to bottom. With Olive Green, rake 3 individual rows, one at the top, the next one in the middle, the last one on the bottom. There is just a tiny gap between the uneven rows. With Mistletoe Green, rake top to bottom over this same area. With Warm White, lightly rake over this same area. Transfer and paint the shoes with Lamp Black, highlight with a line of Warm White. Transfer and paint the mitts with Napa Red, float a tiny touch of Warm White to highlight the rounded edges and a tiny touch of Lamp Black to shade the wrists. Paint a few skinny lines of Warm White over the wrist end of the mitts to slightly obscure them. With Mistletoe Green plus a tiny touch of Lamp Black, shade the beard next to the brim of the hat. Transfer and paint the nose with Deep Blush. Highlight the tip with Napa Red. Base the hat with Napa Red. Float a tiny touch of Lamp Black to create a few folds, just two or three. Float Napa Red plus a tiny touch of Warm White to partially highlight the side edges, the lower edge of the brim, and on the unshaded edge of the middle fold. Paint the snowflake with dots of Warm White where it shows on the hat and with Lamp Black where it shows on the background. Dab a speck of Warm White on the Lamp Black dots. Strand of Lights: Paint the cords with Lamp Black and the bulbs with Napa Red. Float Warm White to highlight the tip of the bulbs and Lamp Black to shade the base. Windows: Transfer the two windows and paint them with Lamp Black. Paint the candle in the window using Warm White for the candle and Olive Green for the flame. Shade the base of the candle with a tiny touch of Lamp Black. Create a mound of snow along the bottom edge of the beard with a float of Warm White. Pattern #2 Transfer the window, the gnome (beard and hat not the mustache), the door, door fame and presents (no bows). Gnome, Window and Sign: Paint the open window area next to the gnome with Lamp Black. Basecoat the beard with Neutral Grey in a general shape leaving a narrow tail. Float Neutral Grey plus a touch of Lamp Black to shade the background next to the lower part of the beard.

Rake over this beard area with Warm White. Use the liner and Warm White to create individual hairs extending out along the edges over the shaded area. Transfer and paint the nose with Deep Blush. Float Napa Red to highlight the tip. Shade the nose next to the brim of the hat with a teeny float of Burnt Umber. Shade the beard next to the nose and the brim of the hat with Neutral Grey plus a touch of Lamp Black. Transfer and paint the mustache with two lines of Warm White and shade them where they meet the nose. Base the hat with Mistletoe Green and highlight the brim with Olive Green. Dot the snowflake with Warm White. Transfer the arm, mitt, and sign. Paint the arm with Deep Blush and the mitt with Mistletoe Green. Shade the mitt next to the handle of the sign with a tiny float of Lamp Black. Also, shade the arm next to the beard and mitt with Burnt Umber. Base the sign with Khaki Tan. Float Lamp Black along the top edge and Burnt Umber along the bottom edge. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the handle next to the sign. Transfer and paint the letters with Lamp Black. Door and Present: Base the door with Napa Red and the trim with Khaki Tan. Line the door planks using Lamp Black. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the door around the edges next to the trim. Line the trim with Burnt Umber randomly to create wood grain and then add some tiny Lamp Black lines in between or near these Burnt Umber lines. Float Burnt Umber on the trim next to the present. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the blocks next to the trim of the door. Transfer and stipple the spray above the door first with Mistletoe Green and then with Olive Green. Dot the bulbs with Napa Red and Warm White. Highlight with a float of Warm White on one side edge of the red bulbs. Base one present with Mistletoe Green. Highlight the top and side edges and paint the bow with Warm White. Shade the loops of the bow next to the knot with a tiny touch of Lamp Black and add a crease or two on the tails. Base the smaller present with Olive Green. Shade the side edge next to the larger present with a touch of Lamp Black. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the blocks next to this present. Float the top edge and line the bow loops with Warm White. Strand of Lights: Paint the cord with Lamp Black and the bulbs with Napa Red. Float Warm White to highlight the tip of the bulbs and Lamp Black to shade the base.

Pattern #3 Transfer the door, the door frame, the present (no bow), the small window (no candle yet), and the snow mound for placement. Door: Paint the door with Mistletoe Green and the door frame with Khaki Tan. Line the frame with tiny lines using Burnt Umber to create wood grain. In between or near these lines paint thin, barely there lines using Lamp Black. Float Burnt Umber on the inner edges of the frame and across the bottom edge next to the snow mound. Line the door panels, paint the bracket, and knob with Lamp Black. Apply a barely there float of Lamp Black around the edges next to the trim. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the blocks next to the edge of the door trim.

Bow: Transfer the large bow above the door and paint with Napa Red. Highlight the loops, the knot, and the ends of the tails with a tiny touch of Warm White. Shade the loops next to the knot, along the bottom edge of both loops, and on the tails next to the knot with a tiny touch of Lamp Black. Present: Paint the present with Napa Red. Highlight the side edge of the present away from the trim with a float of Warm White. Shade the other side with a touch of Lamp Black. Float a touch of Lamp Black on the blocks next to the present. Transfer and paint the bow with Warm White. Shade the bow loops next to the knot and on the ends of the tails with Lamp Black. Candle: Paint the window with Lamp Black. Transfer the candle in the window and paint it using Warm White for the candle and Olive Green for the flame. Shade the base of the candle with a tiny touch of Lamp Black. Legs and Shoes: Transfer the legs and shoes. Paint the shoes with Lamp Black and float Warm White to create the soles. Paint the legs with Deep Blush, outline them with Lamp Black and shade them next to the snow mound with Burnt Umber. Stipple the top of the snow mound with Warm White.

Garland: Stipple the garland first with Mistletoe Green, then with Olive Green, and then over this same area with Mistletoe Green (using a little less paint). Dot the bulbs with Napa Red and Warm White. Highlight with a float of Warm White on one side edge of the red bulbs. Lower Panel: It is already painted, sponged, fly specked, and stippled. Transfer the letters and paint with Warm White. Float Napa Red on the ends of each letter. Dot the snowflake using Warm White. Wood Trim and Frame: Paint the separate circle frame with Lamp Black. Paint the wood trim bands with Khaki Tan. Create wood grain and knots using uneven lines of Burnt Umber and thinner, fewer lines of Lamp Black. Float Burnt Umber on the ends and along the bottom edge of the upper band and along the top edge of the bottom band. Finishing Paint the cut edges with Lamp Black. Apply 2-3 coats of varnish. Glue the frame to the main ornament. Line drawings at 100%.

Herbert, Holly and Heuy Original Design by Jane Allen © 2021 This cute little family of snow people will make you smile and also the person you are giving them to. They are made of Styrofoam and QuikWood and make up quickly. Have fun making these or use these as inspiration to make your own.

To make learning to sculpt this pattern has a link to a number of small videos. You can watch a video, do the step and then move onto the next step. You can find the videos here: https://janeallencreates.blog/herbert-holly-huey/ Supplies x 20-gauge wire x Diamond Dust Glass Glitter (www.janeallencreates.com) x QuikWood 1 – 2oz. tube (www.janeallencreates.com) x Styrofoam Balls x 3 – 2.5” Project Supplies x Avon Silicon Glove Hand Cream x Basic Painting Supplies x Parchment Paper x Ribbon ½” (optional) x Super Glue Gel x Timer (optional but easier) Paints: DecoArt Americana x Blue Harbor x Bright Salmon x Cactus Flower x Country Red x Deep Midnight Blue x Foliage Green x Hauser Medium Green x Indian Turquoise x Lamp Black

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Lemonade - (Foliage Green + Warm White) Moon Yellow Plantation Pine Spiced Pumpkin Tangerine Warm White Dazzling Metallics - Emperor’s Gold

Tools: x Cutting Blade or old knife x Cylinder 2” diameter (such as an 8oz bottle of paint) x Exacto Knife x Sculpting Tools or pencil Brushes x Round #1, #3 (Series 7000) x Liner #2/0 (Series 7350) x Angular Shader #1/2" (Series 7400)

Mediums x DecoArt Adhesion Medium x DecoArt Extender x DecoArt Spray Sealer/ Finisher Matte

Sculpting Instructions Sculpting Tips: When working with QuikWood (QW): remove jewelry especially rings, work on parchment paper or a wax palette. Apply Avon Silicon Glove before starting and periodically when working. Use Extender for blending QW but be careful to not use too much because it will make your surface gummy. Only mix up the amount needed for the next step. Always make sure your QW is thoroughly mixed, or it will not cure. Before painting, wipe the surface with baby wipe to remove any excess oils. Mix any color paint (I usually use Oyster Beige because it is a shade lighter than the QW) with Adhesion Medium (1:1) and apply to QW areas of the project. Note: When sculpting, the instructions are step-by-step for each ornament. Because you will have wait times in between steps it is best to move back and forth between each ornament. Herbert Ornament Mouth Mix 1/8” of QW and roll into a coil that is 1 ¾” long. Place on the Styrofoam ball with the edges turned up to form the mouth. Begin pressing and patting to flatten to form a mouth that is about 1/2” wide. Using an exacto knife cut through the center of mouth (horizontal cut), then cut in center (vertically). Divide each side of the mouth into three sections by making two more cuts (creating the teeth). Allow to cure. Mix 1/8” of QW and pinch and press over Styrofoam around the mouth and on the face behind the eyes and nose. Mix 1/8” of QW and divide into two. Roll one piece into a coil about 3” long and lay next to bottom teeth, gently pat into place having it extend up the sides. Cut off excess. Roll remaining clay into a 3” coil and lie next to the top of teeth and gently pat into place. Cut excess off at corners and blend ends of coils together using extender if needed. Use extra to continue covering Styrofoam. Allow to cure. Eyes and Nose Mix 1/8” of QW and pull off two balls for eyes that are just a little larger than ¼”. Roll what is left into a 1 ½” cone for the nose. Place in the center of the face with the nose pointing up. Place eyes on each side above the nose. Allow to cure. (video) Hat For the brim of the hat mix ¼” of QW. Lay parchment paper over the pattern. Press and flatten clay to fill the circle. Allow to sit for 10 to 15 minutes. While waiting mix up a little QW at a time and cover the rest of Styrofoam. Using a small ¼” ball of clay to make feather for hat, roll into a ¾” coil with point on end. Flatten with your finger. Using an exacto knife cut indent into center and then cut lines on angle coming out from center. Allow to cure. 88

After waiting 15 to 20 minutes, pick up the brim of the hat and place it on head. If it will not stick, place a small ball of QW on top of head and then place brim. Allow to cure. For the crown of the hat mix ½” of QW. Roll into a ball and then a long oval. Place on top center of brim and press into place. Using the tool, press into the center top of the hat to create indent. Fold over ½” piece of wire and cut off to create a hang hook. Place the hook towards the front of the hat. Allow to cure. To make the band of the hat mix 1/16” of QW and roll into a 3” long coil. Lay on the hat and wrap it around to the back. Blend together in the back. Gently flatten, press feather on an angle onto the band. Allow to cure. (video) Holly Ornament Holly Leaves Mix up 1/4” of QW and pull off a 3/8” ball. Roll the piece into a coil about 1 ½” with a point on each end. Lay parchment paper over the pattern and press clay to fill the pattern of the small leaf. Pull out to create points and push in to create curves. When satisfied with shape, gently flatten. At the base of the leaf pull a little point so that you will have something to stick into the clay on the head. Divide remaining clay into two with one piece larger than the other. Use the biggest piece for the large leaf. Rolling 1 ¾” coil and fill in the pattern like you did for the small leaf and create a point at base of the leaf. Roll the remaining piece into a 1 ½” coil for the middle leaf. Repeat as you did for the other leaves. To create a gentle curve for each leaf, lay parchment paper (with leaves) over 8 oz. paint bottle and secure with a rubber band. Allow to cure. (Video) Face Mix 1/8” of QW and pinch and press over Styrofoam to cover the area behind the eyes, nose and mouth. Mix ¼” of QW and divide in two. Half will be the nose. From the other half, pull off two ¼” balls for the eyes. Divide what is left into three to make the mouth. Roll the one piece into a ¾” coil that is pointed on both ends to make the lower lip. Position in place with the ends turned up. For the top lip, roll each of the pieces into a ball, and then into a ¾” cone, with the back of the cone being thinner. Lay the wide end in the center of the lip and pinch the top center at each side to form a triangle. The tails of the cones should turn up so she is smiling. Place the tool or pencil in the center of mouth and roll back and forth to form and shape. Roll remaining clay for the nose into a 1 ¼” cone, having a nice point on the end. Position it on the face, have the tip of the nose curl up, and back. Roll eyes into balls and place them above each side of the nose. Allow to cure. Mix a small amount of QW at a time and cover the rest of the Styrofoam. (video) Attaching Holly to Head Mix up ¼” of QW to attach the holly to the head. Pull off three small ¼” balls for the berries. Take what is left and roll into a ball. Place on top of head towards front. Fold over ½” of wire and cut off for the hook. Insert into clay. Insert large leaf into clay on the right, the medium one on the left, and the small one standing up on the middle left. Place berries on the center front.

For earrings use a sliver of QW and pull off two small balls. Position balls on each side and press flat. Using tool, insert hole in the center. Allow to cure. (video) Huey Ornament Face Mix 1/8” of QW and pinch and press over Styrofoam to cover the area behind the eyes, nose and mouth. Mix ¼” of QW and divide into two. For the nose, roll one piece into a ¾” cone. Attach to the center of the face. Press into place and curve nose up. With the other piece of clay, pull off two ¼” balls for the eyes and place on each side of the face. Press in place and then pinch them so that they stand up. For the mouth, pull off a ball a little smaller than the eyes, and place under the nose for the center of the mouth. Place two more balls on each side with each ball being a little smaller. Ensure that the balls turn upward to create a smile. Press and pinch each ball like you did the eyes. Allow to cure. Cover Styrofoam with any extra clay. (Video) Hat Mix up 1/2” of QW and roll into a ball. Place on top of head, gently pat into place. Fold over ½” of wire and cut to make a hook. Place in the center front of the crown. Allow to cure. Mix a small amount of QW at a time, cover the rest of the Styrofoam. To finish hat mix 1/8” of QW and roll into a 3 ½” coil. Lay around the hat and connect in the back to create brim ribbing. Press to flatten, making it about ¼” high. Using exacto knife, put little ribbing marks around the brim. Using the tip of the knife, pull down on the top of each ribbing mark to give it a little more definition. To create leaves, mix a sliver of QW and pull off two 1/16” balls. Roll each into a cone, then flatten to make a leaf. Attach to the hat on one side at the top of the brim ribbing. Pull off three small balls and place them in the center of the leaves. Allow to cure. (video) Painting Instructions Getting Started Mix Warm White with Adhesion Medium (1:1) and put 1 coat of paint on the entire ornament. Then basecoat the ornament with Warm White, making sure you have solid coverage on the background of the snow people. Basecoat as follows: Blue Harbor – Herbert’s Hat Cactus Flower – Holly’s lips Country Red – Herbert’s hat band, holly berries Foliage Green – Holly leaves on Holley and Huey’s Hat 90

Indian Turquoise – Huey’s Hat Lamp Black – Eyes & Huey’s Mouth Moon Yellow – Herbert’s Hat Feather Spiced Pumpkin – Herbert and Huey’s noses Tangerine – Holly’s Nose Emperor’s Gold – Holly’s earrings Herbert Ornament: Shade under hat, around mouth, and lips next to teeth with Deep Midnight Blue. Using liner brush and thinned Deep Midnight Blue line down the left side, under eyes, and nose. Float Indian Turquoise along the bottom of each eye. Paint a Warm White highlight in each eye. Paint cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon. Paint County Red stripes on nose and shade base with County Red. Highlight front brim and top of hat with Indian Turquoise. Do a back-to-back float with Bright Salmon on the front of the hat band. Shade bottom of feather with Spiced Pumpkin and highlight top with Warm White. Holly Ornament: Shade under holly, bottom of lips, and earrings with Deep Midnight Blue. Using liner brush and thinned Deep Midnight Blue line down the left side and under eyes and nose. Float Indian Turquoise along the bottom of each eye. Paint a Warm White highlight in each eye. Paint cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon. Shade the top of lips and put a highlight line on the bottom lip with Warm White. Shade top of bottom lip and bottom of top lip with Country Red. Shade the bottom of the nose with Spiced Pumpkin and highlight the tip with Moon Yellow. Float Hauser Medium Green down center of each holly leaf to form vein shadow. Shade back of leaves with Hauser Medium Green and strengthen with Plantation Pine. Highlight the center of the leaf next to the vein line and some of the leaf points with Lemonade. Add some Indian Turquoise on areas where you put the Lemonade. Paint vein lines with Lemonade. Paint Bright Salmon dot on each berry and then a smaller Warm White highlight.

Huey Ornament: Shade under hat, and next to ribbing on hat with Deep Midnight Blue. Using liner brush and thinned Deep Midnight Blue line down the left side and under eyes, nose, and mouth. Float Indian Turquoise along the bottom of each eye. Paint a Warm White highlight in each eye. Paint cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon. Paint Moon Yellow stripes on nose. Highlight the top of the ribbing in front of the hat with Warm White. Shade back the leaves with Plantation Pine and tips with Lemonade. Paint Bright Salmon dot on each berry and then a smaller Warm White highlight. Finishing Spray seal with varnish following manufacturer’s instructions. Using White Glue, add glitter to the background of snow people, top of nose, and randomly on hats and holly. Tie ribbon to top of hook of Holly.

I hope you enjoy creating this project. If you would like to see more of my work, go to my website at https://www.janeallencreates.com/

HIS KNITTED HATS By Barbara Bunsey, CDA bbunsey@calicogoose.com Nothing better to keep us warm on a cold winter day or night than a snuggly knitted hat. So many painted items are for the ladies, but these ornaments for “him” make a great addition to your tree, to use as gifts, name tags—well, you name it! I used some colorful “yarns” to keep him up to date!

Surface Knitted Hats Ornament Wood Kit, SKU #SLDPK813 https://tolepaintingdesigns.com/ Paints:Decoart Americana Acrylics x Aloe x Canyon Orange x Evergreen x Grey Sky x Heritage Brick x Midnite Green x Sand Grey x Slate Grey x Tuscan Red Special Supplies x DecoArt multi-purpose sealer x DecoArt Soft Touch varnish x Swirly snowflake stencil #STCL523, available from www.creativeartslifestyle.com x Yarn for hangers Brushes: FM Black Gold x Blender Dynasty #8 x Liner #20/0 x Mezzaluna Medium, Large x Round # 2 x Script Liner #0 x Shader #10, & #16 Technique: When dry-brushing, load brush in paint, remove excess on your palette, then brush across a dry paper towel. Begin at the brightest area and move out, using just a whisper of a touch. Apply more pressure only if necessary. You want scant amounts of color. Sand, seal, sand. Follow directions below for each hat. Snowflake Cap: Basecoat Evergreen. Using dry L Mezzaluna, pick up Evergreen, remove excess, pick up Aloe, remove excess. Drybrush highlights at center right of hat, brushing horizontally to keep the hat round. Repeat, adding more Aloe to dirty brush; repeat, adding more Aloe to dirty brush. Float highlights, in the order given, right of top center seam, top and bottom of brim.

When dry, wash over entire hat with Aloe, then stipple with dry #8 blender until it “sets up” to give a fuzzy appearance. Float shading on both sides, at left of center seam, above, and inside brim with Midnite Green. Line small stripe Heritage Brick with script liner. When dry, topcoat stripe with Tuscan Red. Pick up a bit of Tuscan Red on liner, then Canyon Orange, blend, and add highlight to stripes over highlight on hat. Repeat, adding more Canyon Orange to dirty brush. Line outer small stripes Purple Petal with script liner. Pick up a bit of Purple Petal on liner, then Sand Grey, blend, and add highlight to stripes over highlight area on hat. Repeat, adding more Sand Grey to dirty brush. Add snowflake with your favorite snowflake stencil using Grey Sky and dry blender brush. Pick up Sand Grey and tap onto the center area of the middle snowflake. Temper brush with Grey Sky until you get rid of the Sand Grey. Pick up Slate Grey and tap in shadows on the side snowflakes. Add final shading over all shading with Midnite Green. Striped Hat: Base Grey Sky. Trace on pattern. I am listing the stripes from the bottom up, then repeat. Stripe 1: Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Sand Grey, remove excess, pick up Cool White, remove excess. Scrub on center left of each stripe; repeat, adding more Cool White to dirty brush. Shade each stripe on both sides with Slate Grey; repeat, adding more Slate Grey to dirty brush and adding to the right side only.

Note: On the smaller areas at the top, float the colors at the tops of the grey areas as well as the shading at the bottoms. I chose the colors and placement as I wanted. Feel free to use other colors and/or use a different placement for the colors. Stripe 2: Using #2 round, lay in with Plum Suede. Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Plum Suede, remove excess, pick up Purple Petal, remove excess. Scrub on center left of each stripe; repeat, adding more Purple Petal to dirty brush. Stripe 3: Using #2 Round, lay in with Thicket. Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Thicket, remove excess, pick up Aloe, remove excess. Scrub on center left of each stripe; repeat, adding more Aloe to dirty brush. Shade both sides with Evergreen; repeat, adding more Evergreen to the right side. Stripe 4: Using #2 Round, lay in with Purple Petal. Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Purple Petal, remove excess, pick up Sand Grey, remove excess. Scrub on center left of each stripe; repeat, adding Cool White to dirty brush. Shade at both sides with Plum Suede; repeat, adding more Plum Suede to the right side. Stripe 5: Using #2 Round, lay in with Aloe. Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Aloe, remove excess, pick up Sand Grey, remove excess, then scrub on center left of each stripe; repeat, adding Cool White to dirty brush. Shade at both sides with Evergreen; repeat, adding more Evergreen to the right side. Stripe 6: Using #2 Round, lay in with Shoreline. Using dry Medium Mezzaluna, pick up Shoreline, remove excess, pick up Sand Grey, remove excess, then scrub on center left of each stripe. Repeat, adding Cool White to dirty brush. Shade at both sides with Evergreen; repeat, adding more Evergreen to the right side. Add a small line of Heritage Brick between stripes and topcoat with Tuscan Red. Load liner with Canyon Orange to highlight line at left center. Shade along both sides, under areas at top, on long end, and above tassel with Midnite Green. Repeat, adding more Midnite Green to the right side. Tassel: Undercoat Midnite Green. Using script liner and stripe colors, add wiggly lines, by rolling brush between fingers while pulling, overlapping some, and adding more colors as necessary. You don’t need to cover the entire background as that serves as a “shadow”. Shade at base with Midnite Green and reinforce with more Midnite Green.

Red & Black Hat: Base Midnite Green. Trace on pattern. To add knitted stitches, use 20/0 liner make Vs, pulling from top down to center on one side, then finishing the “V” by pulling down toward the center from the other side. (I NEVER use a brush this small, but this worked the best for me). Red Stitches: Basecoat area Heritage Brick. Add a wash of Heritage Brick + Midnite Green (approx. 2:1) on the “shade” areas between rows of stitching. When dry, wash over the entire area with this same mix. Add Vs to darker areas with Heritage Brick. This won’t show up a lot, but it will give the texture you need in these areas.

Add lighter stitches to lighter areas with a brush-mix of Tuscan Red + Canyon Orange (approximately 1:2). Repeat, adding more Canyon Orange to dirty brush and painting more in center areas. Note: The bottom “brim” has double rows of stitching. Black Stitches: Basecoat with Midnite Green. Add Vs to darker areas with a brush-mix of Evergreen + Slate Grey + a bit of Midnite Green. You will need to test this color on your surface. You want it to show, but not be too bright. When dry, wash over the area with Midnite Green. Add lighter stitches to highlighted areas with the above brush-mix plus a bit more Slate Grey. Repeat, adding more Slate Grey to dirty brush and adding these just in the most center areas. Shade both sides of the hat, under tassel, above, and across the top of the bottom band with Midnite Green.

Finishing: Varnish with several coats Soft Touch varnish. I used yarn as hangers to keep with the knitted theme. Encouragement: These are fun ornaments. Create, experiment, and have fun! © Barbara Bunsey. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. The contents of this packet including text, pattern designs and photographs are copyrighted. You may paint from this tutorial for pleasure, for teaching as long a complete pattern packet is purchased for each student and for retail sales at craft shows, craft malls and special orders. You may photocopy one line-drawing only per student for teaching purposes. Rewriting any or part of the directions included in this pattern packet for teaching or other purposes is strictly prohibited. PLEASE PURCHASE ONE PATTERN PACKET PER STUDENT IF YOU WISH TO PROVIDE THEM WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS. Photocopying or any type of mechanical electronic reproduction of any part of this pattern packet or the designs herein are prohibited, except purchaser may mechanically/electronically enlarge or reduce patterns for their personal use. If this pattern packet is purchased as an e-Pattern or CD, you may not resell the pdf file, nor make copies of the pdf files for re-sale or to give away. The designs cannot be used to create web graphics. The product created from or any derivative product made from the designs in this pattern packet cannot be mass produced in any form without a licensing agreement from Barbara Bunsey.

Line drawing at 100%.

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Holiday Facemasks Original Design by Marlene Fudge CDA ©2021 Paintingmarlene@gmail.com This holiday facemask design will bring some cheer to the holidays! With the mask mandates slowly being lifted, this design can be painted on any fabric or ornaments!

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Surface: Bespoke Cotton Facemask Burgundy and White (or color of your choice) (Kohls.com) Paints: DecoArt So Soft x Antique Gold x Christmas Green x Baby Pink Deep x Bright Avocado x Lamp Black x Santa Red x Red Pepper DecoArt So Soft Fabric Metallics x Gold Brushes:Dynasty Black Gold x Shader #6 - 206S x Liner #5/0- 206L x Round #2 - 206R Miscellaneous Supplies: x Painter’s Tape x Stylus x Well used transfer paper, white and gray. (Do not use brand new paper, so the graphite doesn’t rub off on the mask) Preparation Wash the facemask before painting and let dry well. Once dry, lay the facemask out flat. If your facemask doesn’t lay completely flat, fold the nose area of the mask over to flatten it and use Painters Tape to hold it in place. This will also keep the transfer paper from rubbing off on the nose area. Transfer the design onto the mask.

Painting Tip: You do not want a lot of water in your brush while painting. Too much water will make the color bleed onto the fabric.

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Red Poinsettia Use the #2 Round to base coat the dark petals (marked with a D on the line drawing) with Santa Red. Using the same brush, base coat the remaining petals with a mix of equal parts Red Pepper + Santa Red. To shade the petals, mix Santa Red + Lamp Black (2:1) and using the shader, shade the petals where they go under another petal, along the base of the petals where they go into the center area, and along the vein line (do not bring this float all the way out to the tip). Use the shading mix and the liner brush to add the vein lines in all the petals. Highlight the outer edge of the petals with Gold. The centers are dots of Antique Gold using the stylus. Add a highlight of Gold for a sparkle using the liner brush.

Pink Poinsettia Use the #2 Round to base coat the dark petals (marked with a D on the line drawing) with a mixture of equal parts Santa Red + Baby Pink Deep. Using the same brush, base coat the remaining petals with a mix of Baby Pink Deep + a touch of Santa Red. To shade the petals, mix together Santa Red + a touch of Lamp Black. Using the shader, shade the petals where they go under another petal, along the base of the petals where they go into the center area, and along the vein line (do not bring this float all the way out to the tip). Use the shading mix and the liner brush to add the vein lines in all of the petals. Highlight the outer edge of the petals with Gold. The centers are dots of Antique Gold using the stylus. Add a highlight of gold for a sparkle using the liner brush.

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Holly Base coat the holly leaves with Christmas Green using the shader brush. Mix together equal parts Christmas Green + Lamp Black and shade along the vein lines. Do not bring it all the way out to the tip. Add the vein lines with Antique Gold using the liner brush. Outline all of the holly leaves with Gold using the liner.

Scrolls Add the scroll work with Gold using the liner brush. Berries Use the round brush and add the holly berries on the mask with the red poinsettia using Santa Red. On the Pink Poinsettia, use the dark petal mixture. Mix together Santa Red + Lamp Black (2:1) and shade along the bottom of all the berries. I use the round brush for this since it is such a small area. Highlight the berries with Gold.

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Care Instructions Let the paint cure for 2-3 days before washing. Wash in cold water and hang to dry.

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Line drawing at 100%.

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Jolly Jingle Bell Ornaments Multi-media Creations Original Design by Sharon Cook

These jolly jingle ornaments are created from wooden jingle bells that REALLY DO ring and are such a delight! Using bits of scrap fabric, stuffing, leftover yarn, sculpting clay, and of course, our favorite Americana paints, you can create these magic multi-media masterpieces that will be treasured by your family for years to come. These ornaments would look adorable nestled amongst your Christmas tree branches or they could also stand upright on your fireplace mantel, waiting for Santa’s special delivery. However, you use them, they will definitely brighten up your holidays!

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Surfaces: Three Wooden 3” Jingle Bell; available from Sharon Cook Creations on Etsy; https://etsy.me/33L5FkE. Supplies x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Aves Apoxie Sculpt—2-Part Modeling Compound (A & B), 1 pound, White; available from Amazon Clear plastic folder or page protector E-6000 or Household GOOP Adhesive Exacto knife or small paring knife Extra copy of line drawing Fabric scraps (two contrasting prints) Grey transfer paper Hot glue gun and hot glue stick Ivory or white yarn of your choice (approximately ½ of a skein) Medium sized rubber band Mild grit sandpaper, sanding disk, or sanding sponge Painter’s tape or masking tape Red and cream embroidery floss Roc-lon Budget Blackout fabric, approximately 10.5” by 15”; available from Sharon Cook Creations on Etsy Scissors Sewing needle and white thread Sharp pencil Small amount of stuffing or batting Stylus White tacky glue

Paint: DecoArt Americana x Bright Orange x Burnt Umber x Buttermilk x Cactus Flower x Coral Blush x Deep Burgundy x Dried Clay x Foliage Green x Forest Green

x x x x x x x x x

Honey Brown Lamp (Ebony) Black Light Buttermilk Milk Chocolate Ocean Blue Titanium (Snow) White True Red Turquoise Blue Warm Beige

DecoArt Mediums Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer Americana DuraClear Satin Varnish Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Aqualon Angular, 2160, Size 1/2” and ¾”, by Royal & Langnickel x Zen, Z73WO, Oval Wash, Size 3/4”, by Royal & Langnickel 108

Brushes: Chris Haughey x Chris’s #5 Spectacular Stencil Brush, by Chris Haughey; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/collections/chris-haughey/products/chriss-5spectacular-stencil-brush x Chris’s Epic 924 Script Liner, Size 18/0, by Chris Haughey; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/epic-18-0-script-liner x Chris’s Radical #5 Round Brush, by Chris Haughey; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/collections/chris-haughey/products/radical-5-round-brush Brushes: JoSonja x JoSonja’s Sure Touch Oval Drybrush, Size #12; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/collections/jo-sonja/products/12-oval-drybrush-jo-sonjassure-touch-brush Preparation Trace designs of faces onto tracing paper and cut the faces out of the tracing paper, leaving approximately ¾” around the eyes, nose, mouth, and beard and mustache. (It will be much easier to transfer the face details to the round surface of the bell if the pattern is as small as possible.) The bells require no sanding. Apply Multi-purpose Sealer to the bells and allow to dry. Lightly sand, then tack to remove any sanding dust. Creating the Roc-lon Stands and the Ears for Mr. and Mrs. Claus Roc-lon budget blackout fabric was originally created as a drapery lining fabric that blocks out sunlight. But it has since become very popular for painters and crafters, and in some circles is considered a DREAM COME TRUE! The top side of the budget blackout Roc-lon is off-white fabric and has the texture of fabric. The back side is white and has a slightly rubbery feel to it. BOTH sides can be painted with ease. Roc-lon can be cut to any shape or size, either before or after painting. It requires no hemming or finishing because it does not fray. (The only important thing to remember with Roc-lon is that when you paint one side, you also need to apply an equal amount of paint layers to the opposite side to prevent it from curling or rolling towards the unpainted side.) Let your imagination run wild with this stuff! It is just so much fun! In this project, I used Roc-lon to create the stands for Santa, Mrs. Claus, and for the gingerbread, and also to create the ears for Mr. and Mrs. Claus. Create the stands and ears as follows: The Ears Cut two 1.5” wide by 5” long pieces of Roc-lon. Along one side of each of the 5” lengths, apply a piece of masking tape to the BACK (rubbery) side so that about ½” of the masking tape is adhered to the Roc-lon and the rest of the masking tape sticks out beyond the edge of the Roc-lon. (Refer to photo for examples.)

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Apply a very generous layer of tacky glue to the BACK (rubbery) side (the side where the masking tape has been applied.) Use your finger to make sure that the glue is smooth, even, and completely covers all the Roc-lon. Attach the other piece of Roc-lon to it the piece with the tacky glue, BACK (rubbery) sides together, matching up the masking tape. Press out any air bubbles between the two layers. Set aside on a flat surface until the glue is completely dried. Cut out the ear pattern from the line drawings. Using a sharpened pencil, trace four ears onto the glued Roc-lon. Make sure that the curved portion of the ear pattern is on the area where the Roc-lon has been glued together, and the straight portion of the ear pattern is on the area that has the masking tape on it. (Refer to photo for clarification.) Carefully peel away the masking tape from the rubbery side of the Roc-lon. Cut out the four traced ear patterns. The areas where the masking tape was applied (on the rubbery side) can now be spread apart and used as “tabs” to glue the ears onto the side of Santa and Mrs. Claus heads. The Stands Cut out the patterns for the Stand-Part A, StandPart B, and the ear pattern from a copy of the line drawings. Lay the pattern for the Stand-Part A face UP onto the FRONT side (the side with the fabric texture) and trace around the pattern with a sharp pencil. Move the pattern piece and trace two more times, until you have three Stand-Part A patterns drawn onto the Roc-lon. (Be sure to trace these onto the END of the fabric so that the majority of the Roclon is still blank and unused.) Cut out the three Stand-Part A pieces. Lay the pattern for the Stand-Part B face UP onto the BACK side (the side with the slightly rubbery texture) and trace around the pattern with a sharp pencil three times, so that you have three different tracings of the Stand-Part B. DO NOT cut these out. Apply a very generous and smooth layer of tacky glue on the Roc-lon where you traced the Stand-Part B patterns (use your fingers to smooth out the glue.) Make sure that all of the Stand-Part B tracings have been covered entirely with glue. Attach the BACK side of the Stand-Part A cutouts to the Roc-lon, being careful to line up the scalloped bottom edges. (Refer to the photos for clarification.) Press out any air bubbles that might be between the layers and set aside on a flat surface until the glue is completely dry. Once the glue is dry, cut out the three stands. Make sure the notches are cut out carefully. The notches will be used to glue the stands onto the bottom of the bells. Basecoating the Bells and Ears Basecoat the bells for Santa and Mrs. Claus and their ears, with an equal mixture of Cactus Flower and Warm Beige, with a drop of Coral Blush added. Lightly transfer the pattern onto the bells for eyes, noses, Santa’s beard and mustache, and Mrs. Claus’ smile line and lips. Basecoat the bell for the gingerbread with an equal mixture of Honey Brown and Light Buttermilk. Lightly transfer the pattern onto the bell for his eyes, nose, eyebrows, and smile line.

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Painting the Stands You may choose to paint the stands for Santa and Mrs. Claus in colors that match the scraps of fabric you selected. For my ornaments, I used red fabric for Santa’s hat, so I painted the stands for Santa and Mrs. Claus red, as indicated below: Santa and Mrs. Claus Stands Base the stands (top, bottom, and front and back of the tabs) with True Red. Dry brush all over the front with Bright Orange; repeat to brighten, if desired. For Santa’s stand: Dry brush, then float with Deep Burgundy along the bottom of the scalloped edge. Reverse float with Deep Burgundy vertically where each one of the scallops is cut in (refer to photo.) Float along the top of the stand (next to the tabs) with Deep Burgundy. For Mrs. Claus’ stand: Use the 18/0 liner to apply random swirls all over the stand with Deep Burgundy. The swirls may be of various sizes, and do not necessarily need to connect to each other. Fill in the area between the swirls with random small dots of Deep Burgundy. Line the lettering with Titanium (Snow) White. Gingerbread Stand Base the stand with an equal mixture of Honey Brown and Light Buttermilk. Stipple loosely and evenly over the stand with Milk Chocolate. Stipple again all over the stand with Light Buttermilk. Drybrush, then float around the bottom scalloped edge of the stand with Milk Chocolate. Float the bottom edge of the scallops with Burnt Umber to deepen the shading on the bottom of the gingerbread stand. Line the lettering with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Base the heart with True Red. Glue the stands together in the back with E-6000 or Household GOOP adhesive, and a drop or two of hot glue. Allow a few hours for the adhesive to thoroughly cure. Bend the tabs down towards the center of the stands. Note that the tabs are used to attach the stands to the heads.

Attaching the Heads to the Stands, Attaching the Ears to the Heads Apply a drop of E6000 or Household GOOP to three or four of the tabs on the stands that will be at the FRONT, or right beneath their faces. Add a drop of hot glue to each tab and quickly place the bell on top of the stands, pressing the tabs onto the bell to ensure that they are tightly and securely attached. (NOTE: Make sure that you have the heads placed at the correct angle, which has their faces angled slightly upwards. If they are not placed straight on, or angled downward slightly, you will be unable to see their faces.) Glue the rest of the tabs onto the heads in the same manner as described above, working your way around the stand, from the front towards the back, until all tabs are securely in place.

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To attach the ears to Santa and Mrs. Claus’ heads, spread open the tabs on the sides of the ears you cut out. Apply a drop of E6000 or Household GOOP on each tab, and also a drop of hot glue to each tab. Attach to the sides of the heads, about in the center of the bell. Cover tabs with masking tape or painter’s tape for a couple of hours until the adhesive is cured. Sculpting the Noses, Beard, Mustache, and Buttons (Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for information detail on how best to handle the compound during the blending process.) Before you begin, make an extra copy of the line drawings. Cut out the patterns for the two gingerbread buttons, heart button, holly button, mustache, and beard. Blend together two balls of Apoxie Sculpt, one ball from Part A and one ball from Part B, (each ball about the size of a walnut). Mix until both parts are well-blended, and the clay is softened. Flatten the clay out on a clear plastic folder or page protector. Press or roll out the clay until it is flat and slightly less than ¼” thick. Lay the patterns for the two gingerbread buttons, the heart button, the holly button, the mustache, and the beard on top of the rolled-out clay. Using an Exacto knife or a small paring knife, cut out each shape from the clay by cutting around each pattern piece. Gently lift the excess clay from around the cutout pieces of clay and blend together in a ball to be used in a few minutes; set aside. Gently remove the paper patterns from the shapes you cut from the clay. If the paper should stick to the clay, wet it and with your fingers you can gently “scrub” off the excess paper until it is entirely removed. Use your fingertips, dampened with a bit of water, to smooth out the texture of the clay on the top and sides of the cut edges. Use the smallest end of a stylus to create two holes in each button that will be large enough for a few strands of embroidery floss to pass through. Set the plastic page protector or folder aside for several hours on a flat surface to allow the buttons to fully dry (cure) and harden. Pinch off a piece of clay about half of the size of a green grape, from the leftover ball of clay you set aside earlier. Roll the piece in your hand until smooth and oval shaped. Gently press the clay onto the jingle bell to create Mrs. Claus’ nose. Use a small amount of pressure to make sure it adheres well to the bell. Smooth the clay with your fingers to fit the correct size of her nose. Use your fingertips, dampened with water, to smooth out the nose. Set aside to dry for several hours to allow the clay to fully cure.

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Repeat the same process for the gingerbread. The wavy “frosting” line that goes around the gingerbread man’s head will be created from the clay left over after creating Santa’s beard, mustache, and nose. Align the beard onto the correct place on Santa’s face (it will hang down onto the red base). Pinch off a piece of clay about the size of a grape and roll it into a small log shape between the palms of your hands. Slip the log shaped clay beneath Santa’s beard, placing it where the jingle bells come in contact with the red base. This clay will help to fill in some of the area behind Santa’s beard, and help it to hang down a little straighter from the jingle bell. Gently press the beard onto the bell, along all the edges and bottom of the beard to attach it well to the red base and lower face area. Smooth out the beard and around the edges of the beard with dampened fingertips. Next lay the mustache on top of the beard, carefully lining it up in the proper place. Make sure the ends of the mustache curl upwards. Gently press mustache around all sides, onto the beard and the bell. Smooth out any rough edges with dampened fingertips. Pinch off a small piece of clay for the nose, rolling it in your hands to form a small oval. Place nose over top of mustache and press in place. Once again, use dampened fingertips to smooth out the nose, mustache, and beard. Set aside to cure for several hours. To create the gingerbread icing, roll the remaining clay into a thin, long rope. Then lay the clay down onto the plastic folder or sheet protector and continue to roll out until it is slightly less than ¼” in diameter and approximately 12” long. Apply clay around the top portion of the gingerbread man’s head, referring to photos as a reference. Trim off any excess clay. Gently press onto the bell, and smooth out the clay with dampened fingertips. Set aside to cure for several hours.

Painting Details and Buttons After the clay is completely cured and hardened, gently remove buttons from the plastic. Use a piece of very fine-grit sandpaper, or a sponge sanding disk, to smooth out any rough edges on the buttons. Santa and Mrs. Claus and the Holly/Heart Button Base the noses with an equal mixture of Cactus Flower and Warm Beige, and a drop of Coral Blush. Drybrush the tops of the noses and ears with an equal mixture of Warm Beige and Light Buttermilk, and float over tops of the ears and noses to brighten.

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Drybrush around the eyes, bottom halves of noses, bottoms of their ears, and below Mrs. Claus’ mouth with a mixture of 65% Dried Clay and 35% Warm Beige, with a drop of Coral Blush added. Float (with same mix) around the eyes, bottom of noses, bottom of ears, inside of the ears, and below Mrs. Claus’ smile line to deepen shading. Drybrush Santa and Mrs. Claus’ cheeks with Coral Blush. Drybrush center of cheeks with a mix of True Red and Coral Blush (1:1) Drybrush bottom of noses with Coral Blush. Base Mrs. Claus’ lips with a wash of Coral Blush. Thinly float on the bottom of Mrs. Claus’ upper and lower lips with an equal mixture of True Red and Coral Blush. Base the eyes Titanium (Snow) White. Float outside edge with a mixture of 80% Titanium (Snow) White/20% Turquoise Blue. Float the iris’ in Santa’s and Mrs. Claus’ eyes with Turquoise Blue. Thin an equal mixture of Ocean Blue and Turquoise Blue with water and use the 18/0 liner brush to stroke the spokelike lines from the outside edge of the iris towards the center. Float again around the edge of the iris with an equal mixture of Turquoise Blue and Ocean Blue. Base the pupils Lamp (Ebony) Black.

Thin the black paint with a drop or two of water and line the inside of the ears, around the eyes, around the iris’, the smile line on Mrs. Claus, and her lips. Stroke eye lashes on both Santa and Mrs. Claus. Create a large dot in the center of the pupils with Titanium (Snow) White; dot two smaller dots with white on the outer edges of the pupils. Apply a white highlight stroke close to the outer edge of the iris’ and dot the cheeks with Titanium (Snow) White. The leaves on the holly/heart button are based in Foliage Green and shaded with Forest Green. The heart on the button is based with True Red, highlighted with Bright Orange, and shaded with Deep Burgundy. Gingerbread Bell, Gingerbread Buttons, and Heart Button Stipple loosely and evenly over the gingerbread bell with Milk Chocolate. Stipple again with Light Buttermilk. Drybrush, then float around the eyes and nose, below the mouth, and next to the icing that goes around the head with Milk Chocolate. Drybrush, then float, above the mouth with Light Buttermilk.

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Float Milk Chocolate on the bell around the eyes, below the nose and mouth, and next to the icing. Deepen shading with Burnt Umber. Softly drybrush the cheeks with Coral Blush, then again in the center with True Red. Basecoat the nose with True Red. Drybrush the top of the nose with Bright Orange; float over the dry brushing with the same color to strengthen the highlights. Drybrush, then float, the bottom half of the nose with Deep Burgundy to shade. Base the icing with Light Buttermilk. Base the eyes Titanium (Snow) White. Float the iris’ with Milk Chocolate. Thin a small pool of Burnt Umber with a drop or two of water and use the 18/0 liner brush to stroke the spoke-like lines from the outside edge of the iris towards the center. Float around the edge of the iris again with Burnt Umber. Base the pupils Lamp (Ebony) Black. Thin Lamp Black with a drop or two of water and line around the eyes, around the iris’, the smile line, and the lashes. Stroke the eyebrows. Create a large dot in the center of the pupils with Titanium (Snow) White; dot two smaller dots with white on the outer edges of the pupils. Apply a white highlight stroke close to the outer edge of the iris’ and dot the cheeks with Titanium (Snow) White. The gingerbread buttons are stippled and floated in the same manner, using the same colors, as the face and stand. The icing is lined with Titanium (Snow) White. The eyes are dotted with Lamp (Ebony) Black and have a tiny Snow White dot in the center. The nose is based with True Red and the mouth is lined with Lamp (Ebony) Black. The heart button is based with True Red, drybrush top portion with Bright Orange. Float with same color to brighten highlight. Shade the bottom of the button with Deep Burgundy.

Varnish Varnish all three bells, stands, and all of the buttons with two applications of DuraClear Satin Varnish, drying well between applications.

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Creating the Hats and Bow for Gingerbread Hat Brims and Gingerbread Bow Cut two 8.5” by 7” rectangles of fabric from the contrasting fabric. Lay one of the pieces right side down onto a plastic sheet protector and spread a generous layer of tacky glue over the wrong side of the fabric. (Spread glue around with your fingers to ensure that it is covers the entire piece of fabric.) Lay the other piece of fabric right side up over the glue and press fabric together. (The wrong sides of the fabric should be glued together.) Press out any air bubbles and set aside to thoroughly dry. After it has dried, cut out the following pieces from the glued fabric: one hat brim for Mrs. Claus’ hat, one hat brim for Santa’s hat, one bow for the gingerbread bell, and one bow center for the gingerbread bell. Glue the ends of the hat bands together using hot glue, Set aside the hat bands for later use. To create the bow, pinch the bow piece together in the center to gather it and wrap tightly around the gathers several times with thread to hold the gathers in place. Tie off the thread and trim the ends. Cover the center of the bow with the bow center piece that you cut and hot glue in place, and trim off excess from the back of the bow.

Mrs. Claus’ Hat NOTE: A couple of the photos below were taken using a different fabric, but they illustrate well how to proceed. Use the pattern provided to cut out a circle matching hat brim. Using a needle and thread, stitch close to the edge of the circle, then pull the thread to gather it in to fit just inside of Mrs. Claus’ hat band. Tie off the thread and trim off excess. Add a little batting to the inside of the fabric. Adjust the gathers so that they are evenly spread apart, and hot glue inside of the hatband.

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Santa’s Hat Use the triangle-shaped pattern piece to cut two layers of red fabric for the Santa hat. (You will need two layers of fabric so that it will be stiff enough to stand upright.) Fold the triangle in half with the right sides of the fabric together (refer to drawing below) and stitch along the raw edged side of the triangle and across the tip. Turn hat right side out. Cut a small circle of fabric from the contrasting fabric, and stitch close to the edge with a needle and thread. Pull thread to gather, stuff with a tiny bit of stuffing, then pull the threads tight to close. Tie off the thread and trim. Glue or stitch the pom-pom to the top of Santa’s hat. Place the hat inside of the hatband created from the contrasting fabric and hot glue to secure.

Hair for Santa and Mrs. Claus Santa’s Hair Referring to the photos will be helpful when creating the hair. The hair is created using pom-pom bunches created from yarn. Cut a piece of yarn about 4 inches long and tape to the top and bottom of a 2-ounce bottle of paint. Wrap more yarn around the paint bottle about 8 or 9 times to create loops. Lift up the tape from both ends of the paint bottle to remove the 4-inch piece of yarn. Tie the 4-inch yarn into a knot over the loops that were wrapped around the bottle of paint. Slide the loops off of the bottle of paint and cut the loops to create a clump of hair. Repeat this process until you have 8 or 9 pom-pom bunches of hair. Using hot glue, attach the clumps of hair all around Santa’s head. This will leave him bald on the top—but no worries--his hat will cover it all up!

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Stand Santa upright and using your fingers “comb” his hair downward so it is all laying in one direction. Use scissors to give him a good haircut! Make sure that you can see his eyes and be careful not to whack off his ears. His hair should look a bit like a mop-top at this point. Glue Santa’s hat onto his head, over his hair and secure in place. Once the hat is in place, trim more hair, if needed. Mrs. Claus’ Hair Wrap yarn 30 or 40 times around an object that is approximately 4-5” wide and fairly flat, such as a small paperback book. (In the photos below, I used a plastic folder that had been folded in half.) With a needle and thread, very loosely—and with large stitches—stitch the loops of yarn together. Do not pull the thread very tight; the purpose of the stitching is to keep the yarn together when it is taken off of the book or folder. Slip the yard off and glue onto Mrs. Claus’ head in the following manner. You will need enough of this wrapped hair to glue all around her head and on her forehead, so you may need to wrap a second batch of hair, so you will have enough.

Run a bead of hot glue on the front of Mrs. Claus’ face above her eyes, about where a hairline should be on her forehead. Glue the stitched area of the wrapped hair onto the bead of glue and gently press in place, making sure that the thread that you used to stitch with does not show. 118

Apply another bead of hot blue to the side of her face and over her ear and continue to attach the hair until it has been glued all around her head and face.

Hold the bell upside down so the loops of yarn hang downward. Gather the yard together and wrap a rubber band around it to form a ponytail. Wrap a stand of yarn around the rubber band very, very tightly two or three times and tie in a knot; trim ends. Trim the yard closely to the rubber band, which leaves the yarn looking like a cute little hair bun. Attach Mrs. Claus’ hat to her hair with hot glue.

Final Details Thread white embroidery floss through the holes in the heart and holly button. Tie the floss into tiny bows and trim ends. Hot glue the holly button onto the hatband of Santa’s hat. Hot glue the heart button next to the lettering on the stand of the gingerbread bell. Use a combination of hot glue and E6000 or Household GOOP to attach the fabric bow to the top of the head of the gingerbread bell.

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Thread red embroidery floss through the holes in the gingerbread buttons. Tie the floss into tiny bows and trim of the excess floss. Hot glue one button to the hatband on Mrs. Claus’ hat and onto the stand for Mrs. Claus, next to the lettering on the stand. Copyright Notice: © Copyright 2021 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information presented, results cannot be guaranteed.

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A JOYful Trio of Ornaments Original Designs by Tammey Etheredge e-mail: TammeyEtheredgeDesigns@gmail.com Instagram: @TammeyEtheredgeDesigns Facebook: Tammey Etheredge Designs It may only be July, but is it ever too early to start painting for Christmas? If you are like me, the answer is a resounding NO!! I designed this trio with three different styles in mind: traditional, whimsical, and coastal. I also wanted to find a way to use some fantastic snowflake stamps I bought for another project, and after a few false starts and not-so-successful experiments, I had a breakthrough, and I’m really happy with how they look in the background of the Snowflake JOY. The moral of this story is, DON’T GIVE UP!! Every failure teaches us something, so stick with it and keep trying, until you find what works! I hope you will be inspired to paint one or ALL of these festive ornaments. They are all super FUN and EASY to paint, even for beginners!! So, grab your brushes and let’s get to it!

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Surfaces: All surfaces were purchased from CDWood.com x Elizabeth Vertical 6-¼”– SKU: 31-L493 (Snowflake Joy) x Santa Fe Ornament – SKU: 31-L761 (Sand Dollar Joy) x Square Bracket Ornament – SKU: 31-L237 (Snowman Joy) Project Supplies භ Tracing Paper භ Transfer Paper (white and gray) භ Stylus භ Paper Palette Pad භ Sandpaper (120 grit) භ Krylon 18kt Gold Leafing Pen භ Craft Wire භ Ribbon භ Raffia භ Jute Twine භ Glue-on Rhinestones භ Misc. beads and charms භ Misc. snowflake stamps o Merry Christmas Snowflakes - Amazon (ASIN: B07Y8KDHGJ) o Christmas Snowflake – Amazon (ASIN: B07YHCML2C) o Let it Snow – Amazon (ASIN: B07Z5RGN97) භ StazOn Opaque Cotton White Stamp Pad - Amazon (ASIN: B000S16GFE) Paint: Decoart Americana Acrylics x Black Plum x Bleached Sand x Burnt Umber x Celery Green x Country Red x Chartreuse Yellow x Grey Sky x Grey Storm x Harbor Blue x Hauser Medium Green x Hauser Dark Green

x x x x x x x x x x x

Holly Green Lamp (Ebony) Black Light Buttermilk Marigold Matcha Green Red Alert Santa Red Snow (Titanium) White Soft Black Sunny Day Tangerine

Paint: Delta Ceramcoat x Blue Jay x Territorial Beige x Waterfall Specialty Paints: Decoart x Extreme Sheen 24K Gold x Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint “Ice Crystal” x NEONS Fiery Red

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Mediums: Decoart x DuraClear Satin Varnish x Multi-Purpose Sealer Brushes x #6 7000 Round by Loew-Cornell x #8 7300 Flat Shader by Loew-Cornell x ½” Dynasty Black Gold Angle Shader x ¾” Loew-Cornell Series 7150 Wash Brush x 18/0 Chris’s Epic 924 Script Liner x 3/8” Deer Foot Brush by Langnickel Series 393 x Mezzaluna (medium) by Dynasty Surface Preparation I LOVE working with pieces from CDWood.com because they are so smooth and I rarely feel a need to sand them, which saves me time and gets me painting faster. If you are using the suggested surfaces, start by applying an even coat of DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer and let dry. If you are painting on a different surface, be sure to sand your piece until smooth, then apply the Multi-Purpose sealer. Painting Instructions Snowflake JOY Background: Basecoat with Lamp Black. I typically use a ¾” Flat Brush for basecoating. Trace the line drawing onto tracing paper. When the basecoat is completely dry, transfer the design onto your piece using white transfer paper and a stylus or fine point pen. Using a StazOn opaque Cotton White stamp pad, stamp snowflakes randomly throughout the background (refer to featured photo for placement of stamped snowflakes). For best results, use a variety of snowflake sizes and stamp them toward the outer edge, allowing some parts of the stamp to go off the edge of the piece. To add additional dimension, stamp one or two snowflakes on after painting the letters. Having some in front of the letters and some behind, adds dimension to the piece. To achieve a faint, delicate look, avoid overloading the stamps with too much ink. I also like the look I got by stamping lightly on a piece of paper before stamping on my piece (without re-inking).

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Success Tip: Experiment on a piece of dark scrapbook paper or cardstock before stamping directly onto your piece. This will give you a feel for how much ink to use, how firmly to press the stamps, etc. Once the snowflakes are dry, transfer the pattern onto the surface using white graphite paper and a stylus or fine point pen. Letters: Basecoat the “J” with two coats of Light Buttermilk using a #8 Flat brush. Once dry, transfer stripe lines and basecoat with Santa Red. Using a medium Mezzaluna brush, dry brush a highlight of Red Alert on the center of each red stripe and let dry. Repeat with NEON Fiery Red. Shade along the left side of the “J” with a light float of Soft Black. To add the “shine line”, use a 18/0 Script Liner with Titanium (Snow) White thinned to an ink-like consistency. Paint the lines approximately 1/8” from the edge of the letter (refer to reference photo for placement). Basecoat the top and bottom (above and below the belt) of the letter “Y” with Santa Red using a #8 Flat brush and let dry thoroughly. Dry brush the center of the letter with Red Alert and let dry. Repeat with NEON Fiery Red. Shade the top and bottom of the “Y”, as well as above and below the belt, with a light float of Soft Black. Use a 18/0 Script Liner loaded with DecoArt Extreme Sheen 24K Gold, to paint the belt buckle. Dry Brush Technique: The dry brush technique lets you achieve amazing depth by adding color to areas that are not necessarily conducive to floating. Dry brushing is usually done with a stiff bristled brush. I used a medium sized Mezzaluna by Dynasty for this piece. Begin by loading a small amount of paint onto the brush. Swirl the tip of the brush onto a dry paper towel, until most of the paint has been removed. Then using soft pressure, apply the color in the desired location with a scrubbing motion. Success tip: It is ESPECIALLY important that you only use the dry brush technique on areas where paint is completely dry, otherwise you risk digging a “hole” into the paint, which can be difficult to repair. Snowflake: Basecoat the large snowflake in Snow (Titanium) White. Shade the outer edge of the short, diamond-shaped snowflake arms with a light float of Waterfall. Use the handle of a small brush or large stylus tip to add one dot of Lamp (Ebony) Black to the center of each diamond, to give the appearance of a hole. Using an 18/0 Script Liner loaded with thinned Waterfall, add a thin line to each long arm of the snowflake. Add three comma strokes at the end of the long arms with Snow (Titanium) White. Add small dots to the ends of the shorter snowflake arms and at the very tip of the long snowflake arms. Use a script liner loaded with thinned Snow (Titanium) White to paint additional snowflakes in the background. Add small dots to the tips of each snowflake arm (refer to reference photo for details).

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Success tip: Here’s a great tip to help you achieve consistency and symmetry when dotting your snowflakes. Dip the tip of your stylus into fresh paint and without reloading more paint, make three consecutive dots (starting closest to the snowflake and dotting away from it) leaving a tiny space between each dot. Your dots will get smaller as you go and all the snowflake “arms” will look the same. To give the look of falling snow, spatter the piece with Snow (Titanium) White. Dip a small stylus tip into a fresh puddle of Snow (Titanium) White and add a few random dots around the background and at various places on the letters. This gives the feeling that the falling flakes are different sizes, just like in nature. Spatter Technique: Adding spatter to a piece is a great way to add texture, movement and dimension and there are lots of different ways to achieve this look. My personal preference is the “toothbrush method”, because I have found it gives me the best control over the size of the droplets and placement of the spatter on the piece. To use this technique, dip a toothbrush into clean water and dab the excess water off onto a dry paper towel. Next, swirl the toothbrush into a fresh puddle of Snow (Titanium) White paint, then holding the toothbrush above your piece, run your thumb across the bristles to create spatter. Success Tip: If you are new to this technique, practice on a blank piece of colored paper or cardboard before using it on your project. If the spatters are large or the droplets “fade” into the paper, there is too much water in the toothbrush. Dab it off on a paper towel, reload with paint and try again. If the spatters are difficult to see (too fine), there isn’t enough water in the brush. Dip the very tip into water, reload with paint and try again. It may take a few practice runs but be patient. This is an easy technique to master, and once you get it, you will LOVE the effect!!! Apply an even coat of DuraClear Satin Varnish to your piece. Once the varnish is dry, use a Krylon 18k Gold Leafing Pen, to apply gold around the edges. Then tip the pen so that the nib leans SLIGHTLY over the top edge (as shown in the reference photo) to apply a THIN gold around the ornament. For added sparkle, I brushed a coat of DecoArt Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint over the large snowflake. I love the shimmer it adds when the light hits it! Now, let’s add some bling! I like to finish my pieces with tiny touches that are inspired by and tie in with the design. This attention to detail is what will take your piece from ordinary to extraordinary!! In this case, I used a piece of snowflake ribbon, some tiny rhinestones (glued in the center of the painted snowflakes, a white snowflake button, and some beads that mimic the overall theme of the piece. In its original form, this surface is intended to be hung vertically, but I wanted to use it horizontally . . . so I turned it on its side and drilled a third hole hanging wire and used the remaining hole for embellishments. I almost always use black wire to hang my ornaments. For this piece, I also used a piece of gold floral wire, to add another layer of interest and tie in with the gold edge. Start by wrapping the gold wire around the handle of a stylus, dowel, or paintbrush handle, to create a loose coil, adding various beads and a white snowflake button as you go. 128

Then slide the black wire through the coil and attach it through the holes in the surface, twisting the ends a few times before cutting them off with wire cutters. Once the black wire is attached, twist the ends of the gold wire to secure them to the black wire (close to the holes). For a final touch, I added a dangling snowflake charm (in one of the original holes). I love how it adds another dimension and gives the illusion that it is falling off the piece. Sand Dollar JOY Seal the surface with a coat of DecoArt MultiPurpose sealer. Basecoat: Use a ¾” Flat brush to basecoat the background with Waterfall and allow it to dry thoroughly. Once the basecoat is cured, use a dry-brush technique (described above) with Burnt Umber, to add a weathered wood effect to the background and allow it to dry. Use a ½” Angle Shader to add a heavy float of Burnt Umber around the edges to further emphasize the weathered look. Trace the line drawing onto tracing paper then transfer design onto your piece using white transfer paper and a stylus or fine point pen. Letters: Basecoat the “J” and “Y” with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Highlight the center of the letters (including the round tip on the “J”) with a light dry brush of Waterfall. Sand Dollar: Basecoat using a #6 Round brush and Light Buttermilk. Use a ½” Angle Brush to highlight and shade the sand dollar as follows. Float a highlight to the top of the sand dollar with Snow (Titanium) White. Shade along the bottom of the sand dollar with a float of Territorial Beige. Paint the five eye-shapes on the sand dollar with Snow (Titanium) White and shade around each with a light float of Territorial Beige. Add three elongated comma strokes (refer to pattern for placement) with Waterfall to mimic slits in the sand dollar. Paint the gold ring with DecoArt Extreme Sheen 24K Gold using a 10/0 Script Liner. Basecoat the ribbon with Santa Red. Shade the left side of the hanging ribbon, and around all sides (left, right and top) of the knot, with a float of Black Plum. Highlight the right side of the hanging ribbon, along the top edge of the knot, and along the side and top of the ribbon tails with Red Alert and let dry. Add another highlight in the same areas with NEONS Fiery Red. Add “wrinkle” lines to the ribbon tails by pulling a few fine lines of Black Plum with an 18/0 Script Liner.

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Pine Branch: Use an 18/0 Script Liner to paint the pine branch and needles. Paint the branch with Territorial Beige. While still wet, add a few “squiggly” lines with Burnt Umber to mimic the look of “bark”. Notice how one twig goes behind the ribbon and one goes in front. This adds depth and dimension to the piece. Success Tip: To paint pine needles, I use a variety of greens and paint them in stages, starting with the darkest value first and finishing with the lightest. Painting the needles at slightly different angles, with some having a slight curve and some overlapping others, also creates texture and depth. For this piece, I used the following colors, in this order: Hauser Dark Green, Hauser Medium Green, Holly Green, Celery Green, and Matcha Green. Once paint has completely dried, paint a smooth coat of DuraClear Satin Varnish over the piece. Paint over the sand dollar with Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint. Finish: I thought it would be fun to use several different textures to finish this piece, so I added raffia, a piece of rustic red ribbon and jute twine to embellish the hanging wire. For a little extra sparkle, I added a small rhinestone to the center of the sand dollar and one on each letter. Finally, I drilled three small holes along the bottom to add coastal inspired charms. I used a seahorse, scallop shell, and starfish . . . but you could use any combination you like or whatever you have on hand!! Snowman JOY Seal the surface with a coat of DecoArt MultiPurpose sealer. Basecoat the background with Blue Jay. Trace the line drawing onto tracing paper then transfer design onto your piece using graphite paper and a stylus or fine point pen. Ground: Basecoat the snow with Bleached Sand. Highlight the tops of the snowdrifts with Snow (Titanium) White. Shade along the tops of the snowdrift (above highlight) with Territorial Beige. Letters: Basecoat the “J” and “Y” with Lamp (Ebony) Black, including the top, sides, bottom, and post of the lantern. Note: Do not paint the “x” over the lighted portion of the lantern yet. Basecoat the lighted area of the lantern with Marigold. Shade along the left and right sides with a soft float of Tangerine. Use a 18/0 Script Liner loaded with thinned Lamp (Ebony) Black to paint the “x” on the front of the lantern. Highlight the center of each letter with Grey Sky, using the dry-brush technique (described above). With a 18/0 Script Liner, paint the snow on top of the letters and the icicles with Snow (Titanium) White. To give the icicles a slightly different and more transparent look than the snow, I used two coats on the snow and just one coat to paint the icicles.

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Snowman: Basecoat the snowman’s face and body with Light Buttermilk. Highlight the bottom of the face, and the sides and bottom of the body with Snow (Titanium) White. Shade below the hat brim, under the scarf, below the stomach, and inside the arm holes with a float of Territorial Beige. To make the snowman look “fluffy”, use a Deerfoot Stippler brush to gently dab Snow (Titanium) White onto the bottom of the face, around the outer edge of the body, and randomly on the lower left side of the stomach, and lower body. Basecoat the scarf with Matcha Green. Use a 18/0 Script Liner to add fine stripes with Light Buttermilk and Blue Jay. Shade the scarf under the snowman’s neck, both sides of the scarf where it loops over, down the left side of the hanging portion of the scarf, and along both sides of the “Y” where the scarf is behind it, with a very light float of Soft Black. Highlight the lower side of the scarf around the snowman’s neck and the right side of the hanging portion of the scarf with Chartreuse Yellow. Use a 18/0 Script Liner to add fringe on the ends of the scarf, with Light Buttermilk, Harbor Blue, and Matcha Green. Paint the buttons with Harbor Blue. Once dry, add two small dip dots using the tip of a small stylus, on each button and paint a line to connect them with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Shade below each button with a soft float of Territorial Beige. Paint the arms with Territorial Beige. While still wet, add a little Burnt Umber to the brush and add a few random squiggly lines (to mimic tree bark). Add snow to the tops of branches that intersect, with Snow (Titanium) White. Basecoat the hat with Grey Storm and the satin ribbon with Country Red. Shade along the bottom of the circle that forms the top of the hat, above the satin ribbon, above the hat brim (on the satin ribbon), and underneath the hat brim, with a float of Lamp (Ebony) Black. Add a small drift of snow to the top of the hat and the hat brim with Snow (Titanium) White. Using a 18/0 Script Liner loaded with thinned Snow (Titanium) White paint, add the icicles to the top of the hat. Soft Cheek Technique: Here’s a painting technique that may surprise some of you!!! I use pressed powder makeup . . . yes, you read that right . . . MAKEUP, to make snowman cheeks look soft and perfectly rosy. I use an inexpensive pressed power called Pearlescent Pink, by “Wet-n-Wild” (available at many retail chains). It’s the perfect soft color for Snowman and Santa faces and the pearlescent feature adds a hint of sparkle, which I really like. Success tip: Before using this technique, make sure your paint is completely dry! Simply swirl a cotton swab into the pressed powder, then swirl it in a circular motion onto the cheeks, until you achieve the amount of rosiness you like. For larger pieces, you can use a stencil brush to apply the make-up. Use a 18/0 Script Liner to paint the carrot nose with Tangerine. While paint is still wet, add a few highlights with Sunny Day. Paint the eyes and mouth with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Add a white dot of Snow (Titanium) White to each end of the mouth, and on the top of each eye. Use an 18/0 Script Liner loaded with thinned Lamp (Ebony) Black paint, to add the eyebrows, lashes, lines on the carrot nose, and smile line below the mouth.

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Success tip: If you are not confident with your fine line work, you can use a .01 Pigma Micron Permanent Pen or a Uni-Ball Signo DX 0.38 pen, for these fine details. If you use a pen, let it dry overnight and give your piece a light coat of Matte Spray before applying varnish to your piece. This will ensure the ink doesn’t bleed or smear when you varnish it. Shade around the edges of the sky, along the outer edge of the piece, with a fairly heavy float of Soft Black (do not shade around the ground with this color). Shade around the edges of the ground, along the outer edge of the piece, with a fairly heavy float of Territorial Beige. Using a 18/0 Script Liner loaded with thinned Snow (Titanium) White, paint on the snowflakes. Add dots to the tips of the snowflake arms using the tip of a small stylus. Refer to the “Success tip” above, for additional guidance on painting snowflakes. Spatter the entire piece with Snow (Titanium) White. Refer to information above for more information on the spatter technique. Once all paint has dried thoroughly, apply an even coat of DuraClear Satin Varnish to the entire surface. To add some extra sparkle, apply clear-drying craft glue to the tops of the snowdrifts and sprinkle with Extra-Fine Glitter. I like the Creatology brand available at Michaels. Using a 10/0 Script Liner, paint over the icicles with DecoArt Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint. I used the black craft wire for the hanger and added a spiral of gold floral wire embellished with color coordinated buttons, a tiny star bead, tiny jingle bell and a snowflake charm. Then I drilled a hole in the bottom center point, and added a heart charm, clear bead, and a sweet red bow to finish it off.

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Mini Holiday Sleds Original Design by Chris Haughey These mini sleds are such a fun size ornament. These designs can easily be enlarged for bigger surfaces!

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All supplies available from Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com Supplies x Gold Wire 11-25994 x Handy Helper 29-47070 x Mini Sled 3-½” x 3 31-2838 Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Banana Cream 13-DA309 x Blue Haven 13-DA318 x Cactus Flower 13-DA384 x Deep Burgundy 13-DA128 x Deep Midnight Blue 13-DA166 x Foliage Green 13-DA269 x Light Cinnamon 13-DA114

x x x x x x x

Margarita 13-DA3299 Payne’s Grey 13-DA167 Periwinkle 13-DA366 Persimmon 13-DA293 Plantation Pine 13-DA113 Snow White 13-DA01 Watermelon Slice 13-DA324

Brushes x Angle ½” 03-1345-½ x Chris’s Awesome 1/8” Angle 03-925-1/8 x Chris’s Epic 18/0 Script Liner 03-924-18/0 x Chris’s Radical #5 Round #5 03-927-5 x Flat Shader #4 03-1370-4 x Oval Dry Brush #6 03-2010-6 x Oval Wash ¾” 03-1318-¾ DecoArt Mediums x Matte Spray Sealer/Finisher 13-41370 x Multi-Purpose Sealer 13-07930 x Ultra-Matte Varnish 13-DMM24 Project Supplies x Canary Tracing Paper 28-03838 x Distress Sprayer 46-04741 x Double-Ended Stylus 03-11183 x Grey Transfer Paper 28-05280 x Mono Zero Eraser 18-57305 x Painters Tape 16-03980 x Sea Sponge 29-02121 x White Transfer Paper 28-05281 Preparation Seal all sides of sleds with Multi-Purpose Sealer and lightly sand. Wipe clean. 136

Trace pattern onto tracing paper. After the background has been created, lightly transfer the main pattern lines using the transfer paper and stylus. Transfer details as needed. Painting Instructions Background Load oval wash with Blue Haven to basecoat surface. When dry, lightly mist surface with water using Distress Sprayer. Load damp, not wet, sea sponge with Periwinkle. Pounce sponge on palette to softly blend the paint and gently tap on background to create a mottled effect. Lightly mist again if needed to mute. Word Borders Basecoat word border sections with Deep Midnight Blue. Use Epic Script Liner and Snow White to line stripes on the inner edge and paint lettering. Snowmen All snowmen are created the same. The sponged background is used as the mid tone color and helps create the look of fluffy snow. Load toe of Awesome Angle with Snow White to float the highlight side of the snowman (reference photos for light source). Highlight top and side of head, scarf, body, and arms. Using the same brush, shade bottom, and opposite side of head, arm, scarf, and body with thin Deep Midnight Blue. Brighten highlights again with Snow White and repeat if needed. Make sure the face area is bright for facial features. Darken shaded areas with Payne’s Grey. Snowman Facial Features Load Epic Script Liner with Persimmon to paint nose. Darken bottom side with Deep Burgundy. Dip dot eyes Payne’s Grey. Add a smaller Snow White highlight in the top left of each eye. Line mouth Payne’s Grey with Epic Script Liner. Load Awesome Angle with thinned Watermelon Slice to float cheeks. Add a tiny Snow White highlight on each cheek.

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Buttons With toe of Radical Round, paint buttons Payne’s Grey. Add Snow White highlights on the top side. With Awesome Angle, shade Deep Midnight Blue below and beside buttons. Santa Hat With Radical Round, basecoat hat Cactus Flower and topcoat with Watermelon Slice. Shade along the base and up the right side with Deep Burgundy. Darken shading with thin Payne’s Grey. Highlight top with Snow White. Load Radical Round with Deep Midnight Blue to tap fur on brim and pom pom. Load the same brush with Snow White and tap on fur. Lightly shade Payne’s Grey along the bottom and left side of all fur. Brighten fur again with Snow White. Top Hat Basecoat hat Deep Midnight Blue. Shade bottom and right side of brim and crown with Payne’s Grey. Highlight top and left side with Periwinkle. Paint hatband Cactus Flower and topcoat with Watermelon Slice. Shade right side with Deep Burgundy and darken with Payne’s Grey. Brighten highlights with Snow White. Load Epic Script Liner with Snow White to pile snow on top of hat and brim. Red and White Scarves With Radical Round, basecoat scarf Snow White. Load Epic Script Liner with Deep Burgundy to paint stripes. Shade along bottom with thin Payne’s Grey. Pull a Snow White highlight horizontally across scarf and tails. Green Scarf Basecoat scarf Snow White. With Epic Script Liner, alternate Deep Burgundy and Plantation Pine stripes. Load Awesome Angle with Plantation Pine to shade top and bottom edges of scarf. Darken bottom edge with Payne’s Grey. Highlight along the middle with Snow White. Red Mittens With Radical Round, basecoat mittens Cactus Flower and topcoat with Watermelon Slice. Shade Deep Burgundy along bottom and side. Highlight top with Snow White.

Green Mittens Basecoat Foliage Green, shade with Plantation Pine, highlight with Margarita. Brighten highlights with Snow White and darken shading with Payne’s Grey. 138

Tree With Epic Script Liner and Light Cinnamon, paint the trunk and branches. Deepen the right side of the trunk with Payne’s Grey. Highlight left side with Snow White. Load Epic Script Liner with Payne’s Grey to line the first layer of pine needles, repeat with Plantation Pine, Foliage Green, Margarita, and a few strokes of Snow White to highlight. Dip dot Watermelon Slice ornaments using the handle end of a small brush. Shade Deep Burgundy along the bottom and up right side using Awesome Angle. Add a Snow White dip dot on the top left. The Handy Helper is used to create a star at the top of the tree. Position template and secure with painter’s tape. Load Spectacular Stencil Brush with Banana Cream. Wipe brush over a paper towel to remove excess paint and stencil star. Load toe of Awesome Angle with Light Cinnamon to shade bottom and right side of star. Highlight top and left with Snow White. To add sparkles, load Epic Script Liner with Snow White. Paint thin starburst lines on each ornament and star.

Wreath Load Radical Round with Plantation Pine. Pounce on the palette to open bristles and tap foliage on the wreath. Repeat with Foliage Green and add highlights with Margarita. Dip dot ornaments Watermelon Slice and add a tiny Snow White highlight on the top left of each.

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Candy Cane Basecoat candy cane Snow White using Radical Round. Paint Watermelon Slice candy stripes with Epic Script Liner. Load toe of Awesome Angle with Deep Burgundy to shade down right sides. Line a Snow White highlight down middle with Epic Script Liner. Holly and Berries With Radical Round, basecoat leaves Foliage Green. Shade bottom, right sides, and down middle with Plantation Pine. Highlight top, left, and opposite side down middle with Margarita. Line veins Plantation Pine with Epic Script Liner. Dip dot berries Watermelon Slice with the handle end of a small brush. With Awesome Angle, shade Deep Burgundy along the bottom and up right sides. Add a tiny Snow White highlight on the top left of each. Load Epic Script Liner with Snow White to pile snow on some of the leaves. Load toe of Awesome Angle with thin Payne’s Grey to deepen shading on berries and base of holly leaves. Snow Load Awesome Angle with Periwinkle to float snow on ground around snowmen and holly leaves. Deepen shadows with a float of Payne’s Grey. Load the same brush with Snow White to highlight the top of drifts. Repeat several times to brighten. Use a stylus and Snow White to add dip dot falling snow in the background. Sled Basecoat side edges of sled, runners, inside, and underneath with Deep Midnight Blue. Runners Basecoat runners Snow White. Load flat with Watermelon Slice to paint wide candy stripes. With Epic Script Liner and Deep Burgundy, paint small stripes.

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Load ½ angle with Deep Burgundy to shade top and bottom edges of runners. Darken top edge with Payne’s Grey. Load oval drybrush with Snow White to drybrush a highlight across middle of runners. Crossbars Basecoat dowel crossbar Cactus Flower and topcoat with Watermelon Slice. Shade both side ends with Deep Burgundy. Finishing Remove all tracing lines. Spray seal with several coats of matte spray varnish, allowing appropriate drying time between coats. Attach gold wire on each side of dowel crossbar for hanging. May also use decorative ribbon or cording of choice. Tip: Painting small may seem a challenge to some, however, I find that simple strokes often accomplish the look of intensive painting. Add a stroke, don’t overwork, and take a look. It is amazing what a small amount of paint can achieve.

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Ornament Friends Original Design by Marika Moretti – Copyright 2021 marika@marikamorettidesigns.com www.marikamorettidesigns.com YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDrmdpar4G4x_mSKlP3V8Yg Facebook – Instagram – ETSY: Marika Moretti Designs Dear Pixelated Palette’s readers, thank you for painting this design with me! We can never paint enough ornaments, right? These three cute ornies can be suitable for many different surfaces, a nice decoration for your own Christmas tree, or perfect also for a present! They are quite easy to paint even if they include many Decorative Painting techniques, such as floating, dry brushing, stippling, lining... Most of these techniques have a dedicated tutorial on my YouTube Channel, so get ready and have fun!

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Surface Any wooden surface (approx. 6-3/4” x 3-1/2”). However, the design can also be easily adapted to another surface. Additional tools x Graphite Paper - white/black x Multi-Purpose Sealer (optional) x Palette Paper x Sand Paper, fine and medium x Stencil Tim Holtz – Mini Stencil set #18 (or any other stencil you like with lettering) x Stylus x Transfer Paper DecoArt Americana Paints x Antique Rose (*Optional) x Antique White x Avocado Dip (or Olive Green) x Burnt Sienna x Burnt Umber x Canyon Orange (*Optional) x Deep Midnight Blue x Graphite x Hauser Dark Green x Hauser Medium Green x Heritage Brick x Honey Brown x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk

x x x x x x x x x x x x

Marigold Mocha Neons Fiery Red Paynes Grey Primary Yellow Sand Grey Slate Grey Snow Titanium White Soft Black Williamsburg Blue Winter Blue (or Colonial Blue) Zinc

DecoArt Glitter or Metallics x DecoArt Glamour Dust Copper x DecoArt Galaxy Glitter Clear Ice Comet Brushes x Dynasty Black Gold 206 FW Shader: ¾”, ½”, ¼” x Dynasty Black Gold Round 206L: #1 x Dynasty Black Gold Filbert 206FIL (for base coating): #4, 6, 8 x Dynasty Black Gold Mini Liner 20/0 x Dynasty Stencil brush Pro: 1/2 (or make-up sponge) x Dynasty Mezzaluna: Medium and Small x Princeton Stippler 1/8” x Loew Cornelle Maxine Mop: ¾”, ½”, ¼” x Flat 1”

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Surface preparation Sand all the surfaces. Basecoat with Multi-Purpose Sealer. When dry, sand again until smooth. Basecoat the surfaces with: Winter Blue (penguin), Deep Midnight Blue (snowman), and Lamp Black (Santa). Transfer the pattern onto tracing paper. Lightly transfer main pattern lines, transfer details as needed. Painting I have many videos on my YouTube Channel – Marika Moretti Designs – if you want to have a look. Penguin Face and tummy area: Basecoat with Antique White. Drybrush center of face, chest, and bottom area with Light Buttermilk. Shade around the face and tummy area with Burnt Umber. Deepen shading around the scarf (both on face and tummy area) with Soft Black. Hat and Scarf: Basecoat green areas with Hauser Medium Green, then add dots using stylus and Avocado Dip. When dry, shade hat (behind hatband) and scarf (behind overlap, to separate the two vertical sections and bottom of each vertical section) with Hauser Dark Green. Highlight top of hat, left side of scarf, and top of main vertical section of scarf with Avocado Dip. The red sections are basecoated with Heritage Brick. Highlight center of hatband and main red stripe on scarf with Neon Fiery Red. Shade sides of the hatband and stripes of scarf with Soft Black. The pompom on hat is done with quite heavy strokes of Heritage Brick for the basecoat, highlighted with Neon Fiery Red on top. Add Primary Yellow stitches on hat and scarf using liner. Face Details: Drybrush or float cheeks with Antique Rose (if you don’t have it, you can use any other rosy color or you can also mix Heritage Brick and Antique White). The nose is base coated with Honey Brown. Highlight with heavy dashes of Marigold. A few more dashes pn the tip with Primary Yellow to highlight. Shade top of nose with Burnt Sienna. Add eyes with Lamp Black and highlight with a dot of Light Buttermilk. Add stitches around the nose and eyebrows with Lamp Black.

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Black Sections: Basecoat all sections with Lamp Black. Highlight by dry brushing with Light Buttermilk. Add some Light Buttermilk dashes here and there, and line between left arm, body, and body/right arm to increase separation. Pole and sign: Basecoat pole with Zinc. Shade top and bottom with Soft Black and highlight center with Light Buttermilk. Basecoat sign with Light Buttermilk. Lightly shade bottom with Soft Black. Add lettering and outline sign with Lamp Black. Snowman Head and body: Basecoat by stippling with Sand Grey. When dry, highlight the center of the face and body with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Williamsburg Blue, then deepen with Paynes Grey along top and bottom of face, behind scarf, behind tree and present, bottom and sides of body (only first color here). Highlight again by stippling with Light Buttermilk, brighten in the very center areas with Snow Titanium White. Face details: Drybrush cheeks with Antique Rose. Paint nose with Canyon Orange (or any other orange you have, they all work!). Before the paint is completely dry, add some dashes of Marigold to highlight, repeat with some Primary Yellow as well. Eyes, eyebrows, and mouth are Lamp Black, highlight dots on eyes are Light Buttermilk. Hat: Basecoat with Lamp Black and lightly drybrush with light Buttermilk to highlight. Hat band is basecoated with Heritage Brick. Highlight center with Neon Fiery Red and shade sides with Soft Black. Scarf: Basecoat with Marigold. Add decorative lines with thinned Heritage Brick using liner. Add also small dots where the lines intersect with the same color. When dry, shade behind overlap, to separate sections, and near the fringes with Burnt Sienna. Highlight the right side of the scarf tail and top of the main vertical section with Primary Yellow. Add fringes with strokes of Heritage Brick using liner. When dry, highlight with strokes of Neon Fiery Red. Add small dots between fringes and scarf with Burnt Sienna.

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Tree Trunk and Snowman Arms: Basecoat with Burnt Umber and before the paint is completely dry, add some Honey Brown to highlight. Shade on arms next to body, bottom of tree trunk, and below tree branches with Soft Black. Add wood grains with Lamp Black. Paint the greenery using the tip of a round brush or a stippler. Use the following colors, adding them while the paint is still wet so they can blend nicely: Hauser Dark Green, Hauser Medium Green, and Avocado Dip. Add small dots on the tree and a big dot on top with a mix of Heritage Brick and Neon Fiery Red. Present: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Add stitches around outer edges with Light Buttermilk. Add a Marigold bow and highlight with Primary Yellow. It is too small to be shaded, but you can shade with some Burnt Sienna if you wish. Ornament: Basecoat with Avocado Dip and shade bottom with Hauser Dark Green. Add the decorative stripe around it with thin lines of Heritage Brick, highlighted with Neon Fiery Red. Add hanging string with Light Buttermilk. Outline snowman here and there with Light Buttermilk to make him pop against the background. Santa Face: Basecoat with Mocha. Drybrush in the center (where the eyes will be) with Light Buttermilk. Shade under hat, sides of face, and behind nose with Burnt Sienna. Float cheeks with Antique Rose and add a thin float on the bottom of the nose using the same color. Paint eyes with Lamp Black and highlight with a Light Buttermilk dip dot. (Note: My intention was to paint the eyes a little lower so I could add Light Buttermilk eyebrows. However, when I realized they were too high, it was too late. So, it’s up to you, whether you have eyebrows or not.) Hat and Coat: Basecoat with Heritage Brick. Highlight top of hat and fold, center of sleeves, and right bottom section (below right mitten) with Neon Fiery Red. Shade on hat behind fur, left side of tail and inside fold; on coat behind hair and beard, behind gingerbread man, behind right mitten, and to separate sleeves from coat with Soft Black. Fur (hatband, cuffs, and pompom): Basecoat with Antique White. Highlight center of hatband, cuffs, and top of pompom with Light Buttermilk. Shade sides of hatband, cuffs, and bottom of pompom with Burnt Umber. Add wavy stitches with Lamp Black.

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Mittens: Basecoat with Hauser Medium Green. Highlight with Avocado Dip. Shade near cuffs and to separate thumbs with Hauser Dark Green. Hair, Beard and Mustache: Basecoat with Zinc. Start painting hair with thin lines of Slate Grey using liner. Highlight by adding more lines with Light Buttermilk. Shade under the hat and behind the mustache with Graphite. Paint the beard the same way as hair and share under the mustache with Graphite. Paint mustache the same way, shading to separate the two sections with Graphite. Create highlights by adding thin lines in the middle of the beard and tip of mustache with Snow White. Gingerbread Man: Basecoat Honey Brown. Shade with Burnt Sienna, then deepen with Burnt Umber: top of head (only first color here), under head, on arms and legs next to body. Highlight center of face, bottom of body, lightly on right arm, and bottom legs with Marigold. Add icing with Light Buttermilk. Eyes are Lamp Black with Light Buttermilk highlight dot, nose is Heritage Brick, mouth is Soft Black and cheeks are bigger dots of Antique Rose. Add a nice small bow on neck (optional) with any color of choice (I used Williamsburg Blue and highlighted with Light Buttermilk while the paint was still wet, but you could also use Hauser Medium Green and Avocado Dip, or Heritage Brick and Neon Fiery Red... they all work great). Details of all ornaments Paint the stripe below the main design with the following colors: Marigold (penguin), Heritage Brick (snowman) and Avocado Dip (Santa). Shade on background of penguin ornament and under Marigold band with Deep Midnight Blue. Add lettering using the stencil and Light Buttermilk. Final touches I wanted to add some sparkle, so I used Glamour Dust and Galaxy Glitter. Glamour Dust Copper: red sections of penguin, fringes of snowman’s scarf, dots on tree, red trim on green ornament, bow on present, and (sparingly) on gingerbread man. Galaxy Glitter Clear Ice Comet: stripes below main design and lettering. Outline where needed with Lamp Black. I love antiquing my pieces!!! You don’t have to if you don’t like it, but I think antiquing gives a warmer touch to the whole project and makes it more uniform. I take a piece of old fabric (a piece of an old T-Shirt is perfect), take some linseed oil and touch it in some Burnt Umber oil paint. Then I start rubbing on the surface until I get the effect that I like. Since linseed oil takes a while to dry, antiquing is the very last thing I do, also when using glitter paint. Just make sure your glittered areas don’t get too dark. If they do, no worries... just overcoat a little with the same glittered paint. I hope you liked painting this design and you will have a wonderful Christmas and winter season! Marika

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All rights reserved. This pattern has been created for personal use and fun. This design cannot be reproduced in any part without previous agreement. You can enlarge or reduce the line drawing in order to fit the design to the selected surface, after purchase of the pattern itself. Photocopying, scanning or other types of reproductions of this design for personal or business use are forbidden. It will be appreciated, if you will mention the designer of this pattern among social networks or personal blogs.

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PEACE, LOVE & JOY ORNAMENTS Original Design by Maxine Thomas

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Surface Ornaments available from Pinecraft Inc. Adjust as necessary to fit on desired surface. Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Antique White x Burnt Orange x Burnt Sienna x Country Red x Dark Chocolate x Graphite x Honey Brown x Irish Moss x Lamp Black x Leaf Green

x x x x x x x x x x x

Light Buttermilk Marigold Milk Chocolate Mocha Neons Fiery Red Paynes Gray Snow White Soft Black Splendid Gold Metallic Williamsburg Blue Zinc

Additional Supplies: 1 – 1” rusty star. Prep Sand and seal wood pieces. Basecoat Lamp Black, transfer main pattern lines onto each ornament. NOTE: These designs may be fun to paint large…permission given to enlarge pattern. PEACE Basecoat: භ Mocha – All faces/hands. භ Khaki Tan – Joseph’s robe. භ Antique White – Both Mantles (detail/Headband on Joseph’s - Country Red). භ Williamsburg Blue – Mary’s Robe (detail – Light Buttermilk). භ Light Buttermilk – Baby’s Blanket. භ Milk Chocolate – Manger/Staff. Highlight: භ Light Buttermilk – Faces/Hands/front of Mantles/Mary’s Robe; sleeves/chest/bottom. භ Antique White – Joseph’s Robe; sleeves/chest/down center. භ Honey Brown – Manger. Shade Burnt Sienna; top of faces/necks under heads/hands against sleeves. S hade Dark Chocolate; down back of both Mantles/above/below headband/on JOSEPH’s Robe; down back/front/bottom of sleeves/each side of front sleeve/on back sleeve next to chest. Strengthen with Soft Black each side of neck above shoulder and deeper places on/around sleeves. ROPE is Dark Chocolate with a dash of Antique White to highlight. HEADBAND is highlighted in center Neon Fiery Red.

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Highlight STAFF Honey Brown down center. Shade Paynes Gray; on MARY’s Robe; back sleeve against chest/at waist/above/below front sleeve/down back next to mantle/under mantle bottom right. Add a line of Light Buttermilk to front of Mantles and line string at Mary’s waist. Shade MANGER Soft Black; against side posts/across middle/bottom. Shade Paynes Gray along bottom of Baby’s Blanket. BABY gets a Splendid Gold HALO. Paint STRAW with lines of Burnt Sienna/Honey Brown/Marigold. Float Splendid Gold Metallic around edge. Basecoat STARS/WORD/and line some rays with Splendid Gold Metallic. LOVE Basecoat (leave off tree/bird): භ Mocha – Santa’s face (leave hair/beard black). භ Country Red – Hat/Coat (detail – Lamp Black). භ Antique White – Stipple in fur. භ Lamp Black – Mitten. භ Light Buttermilk – Snowman. භ Zinc – Snowman’s hat. භ Leaf Green – Scarf. Highlight: භ Light Buttermilk – Center of Santa’s Face/Mitten/Snowman’s Hat crown/brim. Stipple all fur leaving some color showing through. භ Snow White – Stipple center of Fur hat/pom pom/cuff/Snowman’s head/body. භ Neon Fiery Red – Santa’s hat; top and tail/center of sleeve. භ Irish Moss – Snowman’s Scarf – center of wrap/ties. Shade SNOWMAN Paynes Gray; on HAT above brim/under hat/under scarf/divot for arm/softly down both sides of body. CHEEKS – soft Country Red EYES/MOUTH/BUTTONS –Lamp Black with Light Buttermilk highlights

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NOSE – Burnt Orange. Shade nose next to head Antique Maroon and highlight tip Marigold. Carrot lines – Lamp Black. Lines on SCARF Country Red. Highlight center of each Neon Fiery Red. Shade Scarf Paynes Gray; each side of wrap/on ties next to trunk/down left side of each. Basecoat BIRD – Country Red. Shade bottom Antique Maroon/highlight wing Neon Fiery Red. Mask-Lamp Black/Beak/Legs/Eye – Marigold. STICK ARM/TREE TRUNK – Milk Chocolate. Highlight Honey Brown and shade Soft Black on arm each side of trunk/on trunk above/below hand. NEEDLES – Leaf Green/Irish Moss. BERRIES – Country Red with Neon Fiery Red highlight dots. STAR – Marigold. Shade bottom Burnt Sienna and highlight top Light Buttermilk. Shade COAT Antique Maroon; along back of sleeve. Shade Soft Black; above fur on hat/on tail next to hair/under sleeve. Shade Dark Chocolate; on FUR; each side of hat/bottom of pom pom/top/bottom of cuff. Shade top of SANTA’s face – Burnt Sienna. CHEEKS – soft Country Red EYES – Lamp Black BROWS/HAIR/BEARD/MUSTACHE – lines of Light Buttermilk. Shade Graphite: on hair out of hat/under hat each side of face/bottom of brows/on mustache under where nose will be/under mustache on beard/behind arm/next to Snowman. Highlight lines of Snow White; center of beard/hair/ends of mustache. NOSE/MOUTH – Country Red. Shade bottom of nose Antique Maroon and highlight dot nose/mouth Mocha. Float Country Red around the edge of the ornament. Word – Splendid Gold Metallic.

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JOY Basecoat (leave off toys and candy): භ Mocha – Santa’s Face (leave hair/beard black). භ Country Red – Hat/Coat/Pants. භ Antique White – Stipple Fur and basecoat the Stocking (highlight down center Light Buttermilk before doing detail – Leaf Green). Highlight: භ Light Buttermilk – Center of face/stipple fur areas allowing some color to show through/center of Mitten/edge of boots. භ Snow White – Stipple center of fur areas. භ Neon Fiery Red – Center of hat/sleeves/bottom of coat each side of fur/center of pants. භ Irish Moss – On Stocking band/center of lines/top of toe and heel patches. SANTA’S FACE/HAIR/BEARD/MUSTACHE Painted same as before except NOSE line is Burnt Sienna. Add Country Red to bottom of nose when you do cheeks. For beard, etc. I flattened out my liner to pull the lines. Shade COAT Antique Maroon; down each side of body/back of sleeves. Shade Soft Black; on HAT; above fur/on tail next to crown/on COAT; center front/under beard/on sleeves next to body down to elbow bends/above and below arms/each side of stocking/next to fur cuffs and bottom of coat/on pants under coat. Shade STOCKING Paynes Gray; down each side/under top band and under mittens. Transfer pattern for toys in Stocking. TREE is created same as before. CANDY CANE – Light Buttermilk/Country Red stripes. Line down center Snow White to highlight. GINGER BOY – Honey Brown. Highlight Antique White; center of head/arm. Icing - Light Buttermilk/eyes – Lamp Black/Cheeks and Mouth – Country Red. SOLDIER’s face/hand – Mocha; eyes – Lamp Black; cheeks and mouth – Country Red; hair – Honey Brown; hat and coat – Williamsburg Blue. Highlight Light Buttermilk; center of hat/coat/sleeve. Shade Paynes gray; on hat across crown above bill/on back arm next to chest/on chest next to front arm. Feather - Light Buttermilk and Braid on coat – Marigold. CANDY SUCKER – Marigold. Shade bottom Burnt Sienna and highlight Light Buttermilk. Milk Chocolate stick.

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Shade Soft Black: on bottom of candy cane/tree behind Ginger/on Ginger next to Soldier/on sucker stick next to soldier and from arm to arm above stocking band. Float Leaf Green around edge of ornament. Word - Splendid Gold Metallic. FINISHING – Line all where needed Lamp Black, antique (or not), varnish, add string and enjoy your CHRISTMAS holiday!

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Surface Set of 3 #0651 Pear cut outs, JB Wood Products www.jbwood.com Paints: Jo Sonja Artists Acrylics x Antique Green x Burnt Sienna x Burnt Umber x Cadmium Orange x Cadmium Yellow Mid x Carbon Black x Green Oxide x Moss Green x Napthol Red Light x Purple Madder

x x x x x x x x x x

Raw Sienna Smoked Pearl Teal Green Titanium White Unbleached Titanium Vermilion Warm White Yellow Light Yellow Orange Yellow Oxide

Mediums x Clear glazing medium x Flow medium x Retarder medium x Varnish Brushes: Scharff x #425 4, 6, 1/2” filbert x #455 10/0, 0, 2, liner x #405 1, 2, round x #140 4, 6 flat General Information Slip Slap: This technique is used to create an interesting background. It is painted with a filbert to keep the edges soft. Load the brush with color indicated in the instructions, then, pull the brush in short strokes to create “Xs”. For applying multiple colors, work with a dirty brush, adding each color wet to wet. For a soft, transparent background, apply a coat of clear glazing medium to the surface first and add some clear glazing medium to your brush. Retarder medium allows you to work and blend your acrylic paints for longer periods of time. It is used in this painting to blend layers of shadows and highlights. The retarder can be used to moisten the brush for better paint blending on a dry surface or, applied to the surface, over the section of the design to work wet on wet. Spread the retarder over the surface with a large flat brush. “Stretch” it out by pulling the retarder over the surface in many directions, leaving a thin layer. The surface should look damp, not wet. All base coats are painted for total coverage, without mediums. Shadows and highlights are applied using retarder medium for better blending. Thin paint slightly for line work with flow medium for more control.

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Preparation Base coat the pears, including the leaf, with a mixture of Moss Green and a touch of Antique Green, Shade the left sides of the pears with Antique Green, slip slap a highlight in the centers with ½” filbert loaded with Yellow Orange thinned with flow medium. Shade and highlight the leaf as described below. Trace patterns onto tracing paper and transfer onto the pears. Painting Instructions Branches, Leaves, and Blossoms Paint the branches Burnt Sienna using a 4 flat and shade along the bottom with the flat side loaded with Burnt Umber. Highlight the top with a mix of Unbleached Titanium and Burnt Sienna (1+ a touch). Leaves are painted with a 6 filbert double loaded with Green Oxide and Teal. Shade the base with Teal Green. Blossoms are painted with a 6 filbert loaded with Smoked Pearl. Highlight along the outside of each petal with a 4 flat side loaded with Titanium White. Add Green Oxide dip dots to the center using 0 liner and repeat with Yellow Light. Chickadee Paint the bird head, chin, and top of the tail with a 6 filbert side loaded with Carbon Black. Position the paint side of the brush towards the outside of the bird and paint short fluffy strokes. Pull long strokes with the chisel edge of the brush from the tip of the tail toward the body. Paint the cheek and under part of body and tail with Smoked Pearl in short fluffy strokes. Paint the wing with short choppy strokes, on the outside edges with Carbon Black + Titanium White (dark grey) and in the center area of the wing with Smoked Pearl. Tint the lower part of the body with a 6 filbert side loaded with Warm White + Yellow Light. Add details on the body with a 10/0 liner brush loaded with thinned Titanium White in light areas and Carbon Black in dark. Outline around the eye with dip dots using a 10/0 loaded with smoked pearl. The eye is black and already painted, add a touch up if needed. Highlight upper left with a 4 filbert side loaded with Smoked Pearl. Add a sparkle dot with the 10/0 liner loaded with thinned Titanium White. 160

Paint the beak Carbon Black with a 2 liner. While wet, pick up Smoked Pearl in the dirty brush and add a highlight along the top part of the beak. To paint the feet, double load a 10/0 liner Carbon Black and Titanium White that has been thinned with flow medium. Yellow Warbler Paint the head and upper body Cadmium Yellow Mid. Fluff in the darker areas with Yellow Oxide. Paint the wings and the tail Carbon Black + a touch of Yellow Oxide. Add the feather texture stripes on the body with a 2 round; moistened in retarder and loaded with Vermilion + Raw Sienna 2:1. Pick up more of the mix and deepen the stripes here and there. Let dry. To highlight, chop in brighter feathers with the chisel edge of the 6 filbert brush and Cadmium Yellow Light. Add Cadmium Yellow Mid to the medium areas. Stroke in Vermilion + a touch of Carbon Black to the shade on the lower part of the body and the tail. Tint the head, neck and shoulders with Vermilion. Let dry. In the light areas, add more details with a 1 round and Cadmium Yellow Light + Unbleached Titanium 1:1. Add Cadmium Yellow Light in the medium areas. Deepen shade areas with Cadmium Yellow Mid. Stroke details on the wings with a 1 round loaded with Carbon Black + a touch of Unbleached Titanium. The eye, feet, and beaks are painted with a 1 round loaded with Carbon Black + a touch of Unbleached Titanium. While wet, pick up Unbleached Titanium in the dirty brush and paint in the highlights. Highlight the eye with a 4 flat side loaded with Unbleached Titanium + a touch of Black. Add a shine dot with Warm White. Place tiny dots around the eyes with a 10/0 liner loaded with Cadmium yellow Light + Unbleached Titanium 1:1. Red Cardinal Base coat the bird with a 6 filbert loaded with Napthol Red Light. Use short choppy strokes to create the effect of feathers. Shade body, under the wings, and tail with Napthol Red Light + Purple Madder. Pull feathers to highlight the wing and tail using a liner loaded with Purple Madder + Titanium White. Highlight the back of the head and chest, the top of the wing and tail with Napthol Red Light + Vermilion.

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Paint the mask (including eye) Carbon Black. Outline the eye with dots around the outer edge using 10/0 liner loaded with Purple Madder + Titanium White. Add a shine dot in the upper left of the eye with Titanium White. Paint the beak Cadmium Orange + Cadmium Yellow Mid 1:1, Shade the beak closest to the mask and between the upper and lower with a 4 flat side loaded with Napthol Red Light. Highlight Cadmium Yellow Mid. Paint the feet with a medium grey mix of Carbon Black + Titanium White. Finishing Let the design dry completely. Apply an even layer of clear glazing medium over the pear to set the design. Apply multiple layers of varnish following the manufacturer's instructions to protect the painting. String as a garland with ribbon or jute. Also, can be used as individual ornaments.

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Stocking Surprises! Original Design By Sharon Bond

“Oh, I had a lot of fun with this set of ornaments! I love cute little critters of the forest and just decided I’d put a few of them in stockings for Christmas! ᆌ What a surprise to find one of these cuties on Christmas morning! By using a couple of handy-dandy stencils, the backgrounds and the stockings were easy to create!”

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Surface: භ (3) Scalloped Tag Ornaments – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L538

Project Supplies: භ Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker – (Such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie, available at most stores!) ----OR-----භ Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine and/or an Extra Superfine by Faber-Castell (for even finer lines.) (I would suggest two sizes for this project; such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie and also a finer lined marker.) භ Tim Holtz’s Mini Stencil Set #32 (this contains both the small tree stencil as well as the small plaid stencil that were used in this project!) – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-56172 භ Chris’s Painter Pal (Optional but helpful!) – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 29-24747 භ Painter’s Tape or Scotch Magic Tape භ Ordinary Ruler (optional) (I used this to help line the strings to the bells)

All Paints are Americana Acrylics from DecoArt: භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ

Antique Maroon Antique White Dark Chocolate Dragon Fruit Hauser Dark Green Holly Green Honey Brown Lamp Black Light Sage Marigold

භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ

Milk Chocolate Mistletoe Neutral Grey Rookwood Red Sand Grey Tomato Red True Red Warm Sunset Warm White

Specialty Items by DecoArt: භ භ භ භ භ භ

Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher Americana Dry Time Extender (optional, to aid with floating/shading) Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish (optional) DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal (optional) DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Gold Glitz (optional) DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Sizzling Red (optional)

Brushes: භ භ භ භ

Angle Shader ¼” Glaze/Wash Brush ¾” Round # 2 Script Liner 10/0

Other Brushes from Cupboard Distributing: භ #4 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-4 භ #6 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-6 භ Chris’s SPECTACULAR Stencil Brush #4 – Item # 03-926-4

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Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to “finely outline” something in Black you can choose whether you want to thin Lamp Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use a Black marker! Also keep in mind when I mention basecoating something with ‘two coats’ of one particular color, it’s always best to let the first coat dry before adding the second coat! This helps tremendously with your coverage!

Preparation:

Basecoat all three ornaments with two coats of Dark Hauser Green (let dry between coats). To break up the ‘solid’ background, take Holly Green and stipple or pounce randomly over the background of each ornament. If this appears too bold, simply add a bit of Dark Hauser Green back into your brush and pounce again. Once you have completed all three in this manner, let dry. Position the “mini” tree stencil and very lightly stencil with Light Sage with just a touch of Warm White added. No need to have an exact mix, just use whatever you like! Stencil all three tags with the trees. Once dry, stipple (or pounce) over the tags with a bit of Dark Hauser Green and Holly Green randomly (here and there) to help tone down the trees. Once this has dried you can tone them down a bit more (if you wish!) by creating a thin wash of Dark Hauser Green and wash this over the entire ornament (just do one at a time!) Pat dry with a soft cloth or tissue. I did add the wash to my ornaments as I felt they needed a bit more toning down! Once this has dried to trace on main designs!

Painting Instructions: STOCKINGS – All three of the stockings are done in the same manner so you can work on all three of those at the same time! Basecoat the main section of each stocking with one to two coats of Rookwood Red and let dry. Drybrush with Tomato Red and let dry once more. You will likely want to tape off around the stockings to protect the background as you prepare to stencil. Position the “mini” plaid stencil over each stocking and stencil in Lamp Black. 167

Shade around the heel, toe, and underneath the top trim of the stocking with Antique Maroon and let dry. You may want to go back and repeat this step to strengthen the shading as it makes it show up better. Basecoat the trim around the top of the stocking, the heel and the toe all with Antique White and let dry. This is just our undercoat for the moment! Now go back and apply another (heavy) coat of Antique White to these same areas (just work on one area at a time, as we want to keep our paint moist and able to blend!) While the Antique White paint is still damp, take a heavy load of Warm White and apply with strokes going from side to side. (I did not want to ‘dab’ these colors on, as I didn’t want as much of the texture that you get with dabbing. I will be painting bows over this area later, but still wanted to have some varying colors in these areas!) You can go back and forth alternating between the Antique White and the Warm White as much (or as little) as you want until you get the effect that you like! Let these areas dry completely before proceeding! Once dry, shade these same areas; around the inside edges and creases on the top trim and also around the inside edges of the toes and heels with Honey Brown. Once that has dried, finely outline all three of the stockings entirely with Black (including the stitching!) HOLLY LEAVES AND BERRIES We will do the Holly leaves on all three ornaments first as most of the berries will go over the top of the leaves. Start by basecoating all leaves with Holly Green. Once dry, drybrush all leaves with Mistletoe. Shade one side of each leaf with Light Sage mixed with a bit of Mistletoe. In lieu of some paints being hard to find, I’ve mixed a few colors in this pattern, but please remember, you can use any color you’d like… in this case, you just need a lighter shade of green, something like Green Tree, etc. Once dry, finely outline all leaves in Black along with the fine veins on the leaves as well.

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I personally like to finely outline any round shapes first with Black before painting. Most of the time I think this is an easy way to just fill in the circles by dabbing or dip-dotting. In this pattern, I’m referring to the Berries (and also the jingle bells that we will be doing shortly). If you prefer to paint first and then outline later, that is perfectly fine! Now to start the berries! I also used Chris’s Painters Pal to create the circles for the berries and finely outlined them in Black. Fill in all the berries with Tomato Red (by dabbing and/or dip-dotting)! Let them dry. Once dry, add a heavy stroke of True Red across the top of each berry for a highlight. I also added a tiny Black dot to each berry as well. If you do need to do any re-outlining of Black around the berries, you can do that now! BOWS, RIBBONS AND BELLS – Trace on all bows, ribbons and bells, then finely outline them all in Black. The ‘strings’ (or ribbon) coming down from the bows to the bells will remain Black. Again, I used Chris’s Painters Pal to create the circle for the bells. BELLS – (these should already be finely outlined in Black) – Fill them in solidly with Marigold by dabbing and/or dip-dotting. Once dry, add the ‘bell’ accents finely with Black and/or re-outline any of the bells if necessary. GREEN BOW – Basecoat this bow with Mistletoe and let dry. Add an additional coat if needed. Drybrush or Wetbrush (whichever is easier for you!) with an equal mix of Mistletoe and Light Sage. Fill in any of the bow’s openings with Black. Finely outline and add any details to the bow with Black. RED BOWS – Basecoat both of these bows with two coats of True Red. Once dry, drybrush –orwetbrush to highlight with Dragon Fruit. Fill in any openings on these bows with Black. Finely outline and add any details to these bows with Black. **Now that our stockings are complete – we will start on each individual animal!!** OWL – We will start with his hat trim first since that will be behind his feathers! Basecoat both the fur trim on his hat as well as the little ball at the end of his hat by dabbing on Antique White. Let this dry. Alternate dabbing Antique White and your Warm White to these same areas to create a bit of ‘fur-like’ texture, then let dry completely. Basecoat his ear tufts, forehead and the area under his beak with two coats of Dark Chocolate and let dry. Wetbrush with thin strokes of Milk Chocolate to highlight these same areas. Basecoat the large area around his eyes solidly with Honey Brown (you may need two coats). Once dry, drybrush that area with Antique White. Highlight (around the top section) with just a bit of Warm White added to the same brush you’ve been using. Once dry, trace on the eyes. I used Chris’s Painters Pal for their round shape. Basecoat the eyes with two coats of Marigold and let dry. Shade the right side of each eye with Mistletoe mixed with a bit of Marigold (no worries about an exact mix, just whatever shade you like!) Shade the left side of each eye with Warm Sunset. Let these dry and then use the Painter’s Pal (or trace) on the pupils. The pupils are painted Lamp Black and the eye accents are Warm White. 169

His beak is based in two coats of Warm Sunset. Let dry. Highlight the top part by wetbrushing with thinned Marigold. Finely outline all of his facial features in Black, including his eyes, eyelashes and mouth. The tops of his ‘wings’ (tucked into the stocking) are based with two coats of Milk Chocolate and wetbrushed with Honey Brown to highlight. The main section of his hat is based with two coats of Warm White. Once dry, you can trace on the stripes. Basecoat every other stripe with two coats of Rookwood Red. Once dry, wetbrush those stripes with Tomato Red. I also added a very fine line of thinned Warm White as an accent to each red stripe. Finely outline the hat and the entire owl in Black to finish! DEER – We will start with his scarf first. Basecoat his scarf with two coats of Rookwood Red and let dry. Wetbrush with Tomato Red to highlight. Once dry, finely outline the scarf and add stripes with Black. The little ‘balls’ at the end of each side of the scarf are finely outlined in Black first, then dipdotted with True Red. I used my liner and thinned Warm White to add the fringe! Basecoat the deer’s head with Milk Chocolate. You can dab this on a bit, if you like. Once dry, drybrush with Honey Brown. Basecoat the area around his eyes and his muzzle with two coats of Antique White, dabbing if preferred. Let dry, then drybrush with Warm White. Shade around the top edges of the eye area and under his nose with Honey Brown. Once this has dried, trace on the eyes and basecoat with Warm White. The irises are Mistletoe and the pupils are Black. Eye accents are created with Warm White. I used one of the oval shapes on the Painter’s Pal to outline his nose in Black. Basecoat (or dab) with a couple of coats of True Red and let dry. Add a stroke of Dragon Fruit across the top of his nose as a highlight. Finely outline it in Black and add the little ‘triangle’ detail! Finely outline all facial features, including his eyes, eyelashes, mouth, and even the little curl on his forehead! Basecoat the antlers with two coats of Dark Chocolate. Once this has dried, add a few wet strokes of thinned Milk Chocolate as a highlight. Once dry, finely outline these in Black.

Basecoat the insides of his ears with two coats of an equal mix of Dragon Fruit and Antique White. (Again, I’m just trying to use colors that I have already listed in the project. If you have another pink color you’d like to use, please feel free! ) Once dry, drybrush the insides with a Warm White mixed with a bit of Dragon Fruit. If this appears too bright, simply drybrush again with the original base color to tone it down. Once dry, pounce a touch of Warm White inside the ear closest to where it meets the face. Finely outline the entire deer in Black.

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RACCOON – Basecoat the main part of his hat and his scarf with two coats of Rookwood Red and let dry. Wetbrush Tomato Red over the scarf to highlight and let that dry as well. Finely outline and add the “X” pattern in Black. Basecoat the fur trim on the hat and the little ball at the end of his hat by heavily dabbing with Antique White and let dry. Dab these areas again alternating between Antique White and Warm White to create a bit of a fur texture and look. Let dry completely. Basecoat his ear, around his face, bridge of nose, and his tail with Neutral Grey and let dry. Drybrush those areas with Sand Grey. If this is too bold, drybrush again with a bit of Neutral Grey. Basecoat his eye mask with Black. Once dry, drybrush this lightly with Neutral Grey. If this still appears too bold, add just a touch of Black back into your brush and drybrush again. Once I did that, I also thinned a bit of Neutral Grey with a touch of Black and added a few strokes of this color across the mask. I kept it fairly dark as I didn’t want anything too bold! Basecoat muzzle and the stripe above his eye mask with Sand Grey. Let dry. Wetbrush the stripes with Warm White. Drybrush or pounce the muzzle with Warm White. I used one of the small oval shapes on the Painters Pal to finely outline the nose (in Black). Fill in the nose with Black as well. I added a very fine line and tiny dot as an accent to the top of the nose with thinned Sand Grey. Trace on his eyes and basecoat them with Warm White. The irises are Milk Chocolate and the pupils are Black. All eye accents are done with Warm White. Basecoat the inside of his ear with an equal mix of Dragon Fruit and Antique White (will likely need two coats). Once dry, I lined the bottom side of the inside (ear) with thinned Dragon Fruit. Once that has dried, you can finely outline the ear, add the little detailed lines, and all the facial features in Black, including his mouth! To finish the tail, trace the lines for the stripes and finely outline them in Black. Drybrush the grey stripes with just a bit of Warm White. Basecoat the dark stripes with Black and lightly drybrush them with a touch of Neutral Grey. Finely outline the entire raccoon in Black.

Finishing Touches:

Once everything has dried, we will be ready to seal our ornaments! I simply spray sealed them with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher per instructions and let dry. When dry, use Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish to add a little extra shine to the following: භ Deer’s eyes භ Raccoon’s eyes and nose භ Owl’s beak

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For even more sparkle and fun, I used the following: භ DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Gold Glitz – On ALL of the jingle bells. භ DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Sizzling Red – On ALL of the berries, as well as on the deer’s nose! භ DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal – On the DEER ornament, I used this on the bow and also applied to the inside of both ears. On the RACCOON ornament, I used this on the red part of his hat, the inside of his ear and also on this bow. On the OWL ornament, I used this on the bow, the owl’s eyes and the red stripes on his hat. You could even add more sparkle as desired! I, myself, like a little extra sparkle – especially at Christmas time!! I hope you enjoyed these little critter stockings today!! It’s never too early to start painting ornaments!!

Thank You!! ᆍ ᆎ Sharon B

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Line drawings at 100%.

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The Whole Snow Family Original Design by Shannon B. Reilly Three cute round ornaments with a starry night background! I wanted to show how versatile “MY” Paste can be by showcasing three ways to apply it. And then, of course, the whimsy of a cute family. I hope you enjoy my sense of humor.

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Surface x Round Ornaments - Hobby Lobby - or- Round Ornament 3-¾” x 3; #31-L372 available at Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com Project Supplies x “MY” Paste available at www.shannonbee.com x Black Transfer Paper x Pencil x Stylus Paint: Decoart Americana Acrylics x Asphaltum x Avocado x Baby Blue x Black x Burnt Orange x Cinnamon Drop x Cool White x Cotton Candy x Cranberry Wine x Dragon Fruit x Honey Brown x Kelly Green

x x x x x x x x x x x

Light Avocado Light Cinnamon Margarita Metallic Silver Olive Green Pumpkin Spice Purple Cow Saffron Yellow Scarlet Wedgewood Blue Wisteria

Mediums x Americana® Duraclear Satin Varnish™ DS21 x Galaxy Glitter Clear Ice Comet DGG18 Dynasty Brushes x Filbert #6 206Fil x Flat #2, #4 206S x Liner #10/0 206L x Round #2, #4, #6 206R Tip and techniques I wanted to add texture to the faces of these snow people, so I used “MY” Paste, however you can use any texture medium you like. No piping or special tools needed to do these textures, just a brush. I recommend applying sealer once everything is basecoated. It creates a safety net when adding details, any mistakes can be easily removed.

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Preparation For a smoother coat of paint, lightly sand before applying the pattern. I put my pattern on and then applied my background around the design. Background for all 3 All three are basically created the same. The shading is shifted accordingly for each ornament. Put a small puddle of Whispering Turquoise, Wisteria, Blue Harbor, and Wedgewood Blue on the palette. Load lightly dampened #4 or #6 Filbert with Whispering Turquoise. Start at the top, using a swiping method, back and forth, side to side, and continue to the bottom. While that is still damp, load the same brush with Blue Harbor. Blend to shade ornament (reference photo). Pick up some Wedgewood Blue and blend that into the last color to deepen. Load brush with Wisteria to drybrush (reference photo). Use #4 Flat Shader and Wedgewood Blue to strengthen shading. Stars: These are easy to create. Using the smallest tip on stylus and Cool White, start with the bigger end and dip dot in a zig-zag swirl pattern. Repeat with the smaller end of the stylus to fill. Load 10/0 Liner with inky Cool White pull out little stars. Following the pattern, paint the big star. Load the small end of the stylus with Metallic Silver and dot all over. Topcoat stars with some Galaxy Glitter. Please refer to your worksheet. Heads Using “MY” Paste, apply texture to head, each one is different. Use #2 Round for Dad and boy, but for Mama you want to use a small stipple brush or dry brush. Dad – Create swirls on his face using #2 Round. Mom – Stipple her face using small Round dry brush. Boy – His face is created with a cross-hatching motion using #2 Round. Nose – Using a #2 or 4 scoop up some paste and, in a swirling motion, pull the paste up, and into a spiral. (See worksheet) A piping bag may also be used. Dad Place a few small dots of Baby Blue, Cool White, Honey Brown, Asphaltum, Black, Pumpkin Spice, Burn Orange, Light Cinnamon, Wedgewood Blue, Scarlet, Margarita, Plantation Pine, Saffron Yellow on the palette. Head Water down Baby Blue and wash a thin coat over the textured head. Let dry and dry brush with two coats of Cool White allowing the Baby Blue to show through a bit.

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Basecoat Basecoat the hat with Light Cinnamon, holly with Light Avocado, scarf with Light Avocado, coal with Honey Brown, and eyes with Baby Blue. Hat Using #4 Shader and Asphaltum, shade along the bottom edge of the brim and the base of the crown (near the brim). Deepen shading with Lamp Black, tighter in the same places. The highlight is a stroke of Cool White and 10/0 Liner. Face Shade eyes using #2 Shader and Wedgewood Blue. Load Liner with thinned Lamp Black to line lashes and paint pupil. Use stylus and Cool White to add highlights. When dry, float Baby Blue along the top of head, under the hat. Coal Shade Asphaltum along the bottom of each piece of coal. Deepen shading with Lamp Black if needed. Scarf Thin Light Avocado, Cool White, and Scarlet. Refer to the worksheet and use 10/0 Liner to create plaid. Pull out the fringe using Light Avocado, repeat with Cool White, and Scarlet. Using #2 Shader and Plantation Pine, shade along the bottom edge and overlaps. Using the same brush, highlight Margarita along the top edge. See worksheet for placement. Holly Highlight bottom top portions of leaves with Margarita. Shade bottom portions with Plantation Pine. Thin down those two colors to inky consistency and use 10/0 Liner to outline leaves. Use stylus or handle end of a small brush to dot Scarlet berries. Load 10/0 liner with Saffron Yellow to add a small coma stroke on top of the berries. Nose Follow instructions above to create the nose. Let it dry thoroughly and basecoat in Pumpkin Spice. Shade around the base with Burnt Orange. Mom Place small dots of the following colors on your palette: Baby Blue, Saffron Yellow, Honey Brown, Asphaltum, Cotton Candy, Cool White, Dragon Fruit, Yellow Green, Whispering Turquoise, Purple Cow, Black, Kelly Green, Margarita, Pumpkin Spice, Burnt Orange. 177

Head Water down Baby Blue and wash all over her face using #4 round. Let it dry. Dry brush Cool White over face, maybe two coats. When dry, shade Baby Blue along the top of forehead (below hat). Basecoat Basecoat the hat in Saffron Yellow, the roses in Cotton Candy, leaves in Yellow Green, the scarf in Cool White, eyes in Whispering Turquoise, and coal with Honey Brown. Hat To create the stripes on the hat, load 10/0 liner with thinned Honey Brown. Line stripes going across the hat and then from top of hat down to the bottom. Shade along the top of the brim. base of hat, and around roses with Honey Brown. Deepen shading around roses with Asphaltum. Load #2 Shader with Dragon Fruit float in a dark center in the roses. Highlight around the outer edge with Cool White. Dot the centers with Saffron Yellow. To create the leaves, load #2 Shader with Kelly Green and pull towards the roses. Using the same brush, float Margarita on the tip of the leaves. Scarf Using #2 Round and Cotton Candy, base in the squares and scarf fringe. Load 10/0 Liner with thinned Cool White to pull out small hairs around each white square and add fringe. Using #4 Shader and Dragon Fruit, shade along the bottom edge and scarf overlap. Eyes With #2 Shader and Purple Rain shade below pupil. Load 10/0 Liner with Lamp Black to paint pupils and line eyelashes. Coal Shade the bottom portion in Asphaltum and strengthen with Lamp Black as needed. Nose Follow instructions above to create nose. See worksheet. When dry, paint nose Pumpkin Spice. Shade the base with Burnt Orange. Cheeks Stipple cheeks with Cotton Candy.

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Boy Place on your palette small dots of: Cinnamon Drop, Cool White, Honey Brown, Lamp Black, Scarlet, Pumpkin Spice, Dragon Fruit, Asphaltum, Cranberry, and Burnt Orange. Face Wash with thinned Baby Blue and let dry. Drybrush with a coat or two of Cool White. Float a shade of Baby Blue under the brim of the hat. Basecoat Basecoat scarf and hat Cinnamon Drop, the pom-pom is a light wash of Honey Brown, and eyes are Honey Brown. Hat Load #4 Round with thinned Cool White to paint squiggles on the brim of the hat. Using a dry brush and Scarlet, pounce a little bit of color on the middle of the hat. Float Scarlet along the bottom of the brim. Shade along the top of the brim and hat with Cranberry. Highlight pom-pom with Cool White. Scarf Load #4 Round with thinned Cool White to paint squiggles, switch to 10/0 liner to line snowflakes. Shade Cranberry along sides, bottom, and between overlaps. Highlight with Scarlet. Eyes Mix Lamp Black and Honey Brown to shade eyes and mouth coals. Paint pupils Lamp Black, add a Cool White highlight in each pupil. Paint eyelashes Lamp Black. Nose The nose does not need to stick straight out, he is looking up so flat to his face. Take a dab of “MY” Paste, start a squiggle, and narrow up. When dry, basecoat with Pumpkin Spice. Shade the base in Burn Orange. Cheeks Stipple cheeks with Cotton Candy. Top Ornament Hanger Basecoat in Lamp Black. When dry, topcoat with Metallic Gold.

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Finishing Remove all tracing lines and seal with several light coats of Satin Varnish allowing adequate drying time between coats. Add glitter if desired and attach hanging ribbon.

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Three Angels Original Design by Elisabetta De Maria, CDA Dearest painting friends, for this Christmas I thought of three angels. Three delicate angels who I hope will bring so much joy and serenity to your home…I hope you like it! Happy painting! 184

Surface Angel Ornament (Beehive) 5” x 4-1//4” (available at Cupboard Distributing #31-L750) Project Supplies භ Ball Stylus භ Fine Sandpaper භ Standard Acrylic Painting Supplies භ Lint Free Cloth භ Decor Metallics Decoart Sterling Silver භ Decor Metallics Decoart Vintage Brass භ Dazzling Metallics Splendid Gold භ Mini Stencil Tim Holtz Set 4 Paints: Decoart Americana Acrylics භ Bahama Blue භ Blue Chiffon භ Burnt Umber භ Camel භ Cool White භ Coral භ Coral Shell භ Deep Blush - Substitute Dried Clay භ Dioxazine Purple භ Georgia Clay භ Golden Yellow

භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ

Hauser Dark Green Light Cinnamon Orchid- Substitute Lilac Meadow Peacock Teal Purple Petal Purple Pizzazz Raw Sienna Shoreline Titanium White Warm Beige White Peach

Mediums භ All Purpose Sealer of Choice භ Varnish of Choice Brushes භ Flats, Assorted Size for Basecoating Dynasty Black Gold භ Angle, Assorted Size for Floating Dynasty Black Gold භ Round Brush #2 Dynasty Black Gold භ Mezzaluna Small Brush for Dry-brushing Dynasty භ Fine Liners, Assorted Sizes Dynasty Black Gold භ Mop Brush 3/8 and ½ to Blend and Soften Dynasty Series 400 භ Deerfoot Brush 1/8 Dynasty series 300 භ Stencil Brush ¼ Dynasty

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Painting Techniques Basecoat: Opaque application of background color on surface or component. Shading and Highlighting: Load a small amount of paint in the corner of Angle Brush, stroke the brush back and forth on the palette paper until most of the paint is out of the brush. It is important that the color be worked in the brush until it is completely transparent. Apply as if walking out a float of color. Repeat if necessary and use the Mop brush to blend the color. Drybrush: I use brushes that are dome shaped, rounded, and have shorter hairs. Dip the brush into the paint and then wipe the brush on a dry paper towel, rotating the brush until only a residue of paint remains. Move to the surface, use a light pressure and begin “scrubbing” the paint out of the brush, slowly, in a small circular motion. Work the paint outward, allowing it to diminish so that there is a gradation of color. Instructions Using a large brush, apply a coat of sealer and let dry. Sand raised grain with fine sand paper and remove dust with a lint free cloth. Transfer only the main pattern lines; details will be added as necessary. SHADING AND HIGHLIGHTING: (Refer to color photo for placement.) Pink Angel Dress and Background: Basecoat with Coral. Stencil design with White Peach and shade with Georgia Clay. With liner brush, apply Decor Metallics Vintage Brass to some of the stenciled designs.

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Jacket: Basecoat with Coral Shell. Shade with Coral and highlight by drybrushing with White Peach. Load liner with Vintage Brass to paint strokework designs on the jacket and sleeves. Use same brush and color to outline the sleeve openings. Basecoat edge of the jacket and sleeves with White Peach. Stipple with Titanium White, repeat with a little Coral Shell, and highlight with Décor Metallics Decoart Sterling Silver. Face, Neck and Hands: Basecoat with White Peach. Shade first with Warm Beige and then with Deep Blush. Eyes and Nose: Burnt Umber Eyebrows: Raw Sienna Mouth: Coral Hair: Raw Sienna With a round brush, stroke the dark strands with Light Cinnamon, the highlights with Camel, and brighten with Golden Yellow. Add additional Vintage Brass highlights using liner brush. Wings, Heart, Halo, and Necklace: Basecoat with Decor Metallics Decoart Vintage Brass. Background: Basecoat the background near the jacket and hair with Coral. Basecoat the bottom section with Vintage Brass. Paint dashes with liner and Vintage Brass. Blue Angel Dress: Basecoat with Peacock Teal. Stencil design with Shoreline. Shade with Peacock Teal + Hauser Dark Green. Paint some of the stenciled design Vintage Brass using liner. 187

Jacket: Basecoat with Bahama Blue. Shade with Peacock Teal and highlight by drybrushing with Cool White. Load liner with Vintage Brass to paint strokework designs on the jacket and sleeves. Use same brush and color to outline the sleeve openings. Basecoat edge of the jacket and sleeves with Blue Chiffon. Stipple with Titanium White, repeat with a little Shoreline, and highlight with Decor Metallics Decoart Sterling Silver. Face, Neck, Hands, and Hair: Follow instructions above for face, neck, hand, and hair. Wings, Heart, Halo, and Necklace: Basecoat with Decor Metallics Decoart Vintage Brass. Background: Basecoat the background near the jacket and hair with Peacock Teal. Basecoat the bottom section with Vintage Brass. Paint dashes with liner and Vintage Brass. Violet Angel Dress: Basecoat with Purple Pizzazz. Stencil design on dress with Purple Petal. Shade with Dioxazine Purple. Using Vintage Brass and liner, topcoat some of the stenciled design. Jacket: Basecoat with Orchid. Shade with Purple Pizzazz and highlight by drybrushing with Cool White. With liner, add Vintage Brass strokework on the jacket and sleeves, and outline sleeve openings. 188

Basecoat edge of the jacket and sleeves with Blue Chiffon. Stippling with Titanium White, repeat with a little Orchid, and highlight with Decor Metallics Decoart Sterling Silver. Follow instructions above for face and hair. Wings, Heart, Halo, and Necklace: Basecoat with Decor Metallics Decoart Vintage Brass. Background: Basecoat the background near the jacket and hair with Purple Pizzazz. Basecoat the bottom section with Vintage Brass. Paint dashes with liner and Vintage Brass. Finishing With the liner brush and Dazzling Metallics Splendid Gold paint the strokework design on the jacket and linework on the background. Varnish as desired. Add bows and ribbons to taste. I hope you enjoy painting this as much as I did! Happy Painting! Elisabetta.

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Line drawings at 100%. Bottom drawing is used on blue and violet angels.

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The Vacation Claus Ornaments

Vacation Claus

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Original Design by Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs ©2021 If I worked as hard as Santa, I would want a Vacation Clause in my contract too. The next best thing is to join the Jolly Man on his getaway to some tropical place where the wind blows free, and the waves lull you to sleep. We all need a place to relax and recharge…just imagine you are in that place while you paint these out of your ordinary Christmas ornaments. SUPPLIES Surface: Available from Palette and Sawdust, 401 Smoky Lane, Caldwell, Idaho 83607 (208) 4592380 www.paletteandsawdust.com භ “Gone to the Beach” Ornament 5 ¾” x 3 /2” භ “Napping Santa” Ornament 6 ½” x 3 ¾” භ “Stocking Foot” Ornament 5 ¾” x 4 ¾” Project Supplies භ Wire for hanger භ Small Snowflake Stencil (any you have on hand will do) DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint (Aloha Red is a mix I made up specifically for this project. You will use it on all three ornaments so make enough for the basecoats.) x x x x x x x x x

Aloha Red (Santa Red plus Coral 2:1) Black Forest Green DA083 Burnt Umber DA064 Coral DA346 Coral Shell DA316 Deep Midnight Blue DA166 Dried Clay DA356 Fawn DA242 Honey Brown DA163

x x x x x x x x

Irish Moss DA312 Moon Yellow DA07 Open Water DA374 Sand DA04 Santa Red DA170 Slate Grey DA068 Soft Black DA155 Warm White DA239

Royal/Langnickel Brushes භ Short Round Size 10 - L95005 Royal Sable (or your favorite brush to Dry Brush with) භ Aqualon Liner #1 - 2595 භ Royal Filbert Comb Size ¼” - 930 භ Aqualon Round Size 4 - 2250 භ Royal Gold Flat Shader Size 12 and 16 - RG150 These are the brushes that I used to paint this project but, please, feel free to use the brushes that you are most comfortable painting with.

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“Gone to the Beach” Ornament: Hat: Paint with the mix, Aloha Red. Dry brush highlighting through the center area of the hat with Coral. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Coral plus a touch of Warm White. Float shading around all the edges, next to the fur, and to form the crease where the tail of the hat is behind the top section with Santa Red. Deepen this shading with floats Santa Red plus Burnt Umber. Dry brush the brightest highlights with Warm White. Fur Trim: Paint with Fawn. Stipple light fur in the top of the pom pom and the hat band with Fawn plus Warm White. This will not be as bright as it is in the picture yet. Stipple darker fur along the bottom of these areas with Fawn plus Burnt Umber. Let your stippling dry slightly (or you will get mush) and then stipple the brightest fur along the tops with Warm White. Signboard: Paint with a coat or two of Warm White. With a flat brush, streak some Honey Brown horizontally across the sign. Streak some Warm White across the center area of the sign to brighten this area back up a bit. Float shading on all sides, line the wood grain and line the separation between the three boards with Burnt Umber. Sand: Paint with Sand. (Duh?) Stipple lightly to add the look of texture with Honey Brown. Stipple lightly again with Warm White. Float shading across the sides and the top edge of the sand with Honey Brown. Water: Paint with Open Water. Line streaks horizontally across the water with Open Water plus Warm White. Float shading across the top edge of the water with straight Open Water. Float a highlight across the lower edge of the water, next to the sand, with Open Water plus Warm White. Tap some “foam” along the front edge with Open Water plus Warm White. Tap brighter “foam” with straight Warm White. Palm Tree: Paint the trunk with Honey Brown. Using your liner brush, paint the sections on the trunk with Moon Yellow. Line a highlight on the right side of these yellow sections with Warm White. Float shading down the left side of the trunk with Burnt Umber. Palm Fronds: Paint with Irish Moss. Float a highlight in the tips of each frond with Moon Yellow. Float shading at the base of each frond with Black Forest Green. Lettering: Paint with Soft Black. Line a highlight in the top half of each letter with Warm White. Line a shadow to the top and left of each letter with a wash of Burnt Umber. 194

Napping Santa: Towel: Paint with Irish Moss. Dry brush highlighting on each section with Moon Yellow. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Moon Yellow plus Warm White. Float shading with Black Forest Green. Stencil random sized and shaped snowflakes with Warm White. Santa’s Face and Body: Paint with Coral Shell. Dry brush highlighting with Warm White on the face, in the nose, in the centers of the arms and legs, and on his belly. Float a Warm White highlight on the top of his nose and toes. Float shading with Dried Clay in the bottom of his toes, on his legs down both sides, next to the toes, and trunks, on his belly down both sides and next to the beard and the trunks, on his arms down the sides and in the armpits, and on his face under the hat, on the cheeks next to the moustache, in the bottom of the nose and above the nose. Float a little hint of Santa Red along the bottom of the nose and the cheeks. Line the eyes with Soft Black. Line some squiggly underarm hair with thinned Burnt Umber. Line a highlight on the top of each toe, on the eyelids and in the top of the nose with Warm White. Deepen shading on the heels, under the trunks, above the trunks, in the armpits, and on the top of the arms with a soft float of Dried Clay plus Burnt Umber. Paint in his belly button with a wash of Dried Clay. Float a highlight next to the belly button, on the right side, with Warm White. Dry brush just a hint of color on the lower parts of his belly with Santa Red. Hat: Paint with the mix, Aloha Red. Dry brush highlighting with Coral. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Coral plus Warm White. Float shading with Santa Red. Deepen shading with Santa Red plus Burnt Umber. Dry brush the brightest highlight with Warm White. Beard and Moustache: Paint with Slate Grey. Using your ¼” Filbert Comb brush, stroke on the first layer of hair and beard (we will do the moustache when these are done) with thinned Fawn. Let this dry and then stroke on the next layer or two with thinned Warm White. Let each layer dry before adding the next layer. Float shading on the hair and beard under the hat and around the moustache with very well blended out Burnt Umber. Using your liner brush, line the first layer of hair on the moustache with thinned Fawn. Let this dry slightly. Line on the next layer or two with thinned Warm White. Float shading on the moustache under the nose with very well blended out Burnt Umber.

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Fur Trim: Paint with Fawn. Stipple light fur in the top of the pom pom and the hat band with Fawn plus Warm White. Stipple darker fur along the bottom of these areas with Fawn plus Burnt Umber. Let your stippling dry slightly and then stipple the brightest fur along the tops with Warm White. Trunks: Paint with the mix, Aloha Red. Dry brush highlighting with Coral. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Coral plus Warm White. Paint the dots with Open Water. Line a Warm White highlight in the top of each dot. Float shading on the trunks with Santa Red. Deepen this shading with floats of Santa Red plus Burnt Umber. Float a highlight along the bottom of the legs with very well blended out Coral. Line the tie at the waist, the gathers on the waistband, and the stitching along the bottom of the legs with thinned Warm White. Stocking Foot: Stocking: Paint with the mix, Aloha Red. Dry brush highlighting with Coral. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Coral plus Warm White. Float shading with Santa Red. Line the stripes with thinned Warm White. Deepen the previous shading with floats Santa Red plus Burnt Umber. Foot: Paint with Coral Shell. Dry brush highlighting through the center of the ankle area, on the top of the foot, and on the rounded area of the toes with Warm White. Float shading with Dried Clay under the fur trim, down both sides, next to the straps of the flip flop, on the bottom of the foot, on the tips and bottom of the toes, under the toenails, and to separate the toes from each other. Deepen the shading under the top cuff and next to the flip flop with floats of Dried Clay plus Burnt Umber. Float shading at the base of each toenail with Dried Clay plus Burnt Umber. Float a highlight on the tips of the toenails with Warm White. Float just a hint of color at the base of the toenails with very well blended out Santa Red. Line the separation between the toes and under the tips of the toenails with thinned Dried Clay. Line the tips of the toenails with Warm White. Ankle Tattoo: Paint the leaves with Irish Moss. Float highlighting with Moon Yellow. Float shading and line the center vein line with Black Forest Green. Dot the berries with Santa Red. Let dry and then add a Warm White highlight. Paint the lettering with thinned Soft Black. Fur Trim: Paint with Fawn. Stipple light fur in the top of the cuff with Fawn plus Warm White. Stipple darker fur along the bottom of the cuff with Fawn plus Burnt Umber. Let your stippling dry slightly and then stipple the brightest fur along the top with Warm White. 196

Flip Flop: Paint with Open Water. Dry brush and float highlighting on the straps and the base with Open Water plus Warm White. Float highlighting on the top edge of the base and the top edge of the straps with Open Water plus Warm White. Float shading under the foot, along the bottom of the straps, where the straps go between the toes, where they attach at the sides, and line the sole with Deep Midnight Blue. Lettering: Paint with Soft Black. Line a highlight in the top half of each letter with Warm White. Line a shadow to the top and left of each letter with a wash of Burnt Umber. ©2021 Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs Thank you for taking the time to ready my copyright statement. The design purchased in this packet is intended for Decorating Painting Purposes only. You may change the shape, size or surface of this design and hand paint it for personal use or sale at your craft show, craft mall, on your website, in your Etsy or eBay store or any craft-related sales market. This design and the packet contents may not be mechanically or electronically mass produced. You may not scan or copy the design photos provided in these instructions/packet. Digital tole or graphic reproductions is prohibited. You may photography YOUR hand painted version of this design for teaching use. No copies can be made of these written instructions or line drawing to sell or give away, even for classes. TEACHERS, CHAPTERS AND SHOP OWNERS: You may purchase multiples of this packet, at a discount, and provide them to your students as part of their class fee. Whether selling your hand painted version of this design or posting your finished project online to share with other painters or teaching it in a class, please give Just Fine Designs/Sandy LeFlore credit (i.e., “Designed by Sandy LeFlore” or “Based on a design by Sandy LeFlore”. Any other use of this design and/or packet contents will require permission from Sandy LeFlore.

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We Three Friends!

Original Design by Jamie Mills-Price, Copyright © 2021 www.BetweenTheVines.com I love taking one surface shape…and creating a variety of characters from it! That is what I did here, and I can “see” many other characters that would make some sweet snowy friends! Use your imagination, see what you can come up with!

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Surface: We Three Friends Ornament (Item #621006) - Pinecraft Inc, www.PinecraftInc.com Palette: DecoArt Americana x Aqua Sky x Bleached Sand x Bright Blue x Brilliant Purple x Burnt Umber x Deep Burgundy x Evergreen

x x x x x x x

Foliage Green Lamp Black Milk Chocolate Sable Brown Snow White Tropical Blue Wild Berry

DecoArt Mediums x Craft Twinkles, Crystal x Multi-Purpose Sealer x Snow Tex x Soft Touch Varnish (or varnish of your choice) Brushes: Jo Sonja Sure Touch x Series 1317 Mop: ½ x Series 1350 Round: 3, 1 x Series 1385 Filbert: 6 x Series 1365 Script Liner: 18/0 x Series 1370 Flats 8, 6 x Series 1375 Square Wash (SW): 1/2 x Series 2010 Oval Dry Brush (ODB): 8, 6 x Series 4015 Select Mid-Liner: 1 Supplies: x Ball Stylus x Drywall Adhesive Mesh (available through: www.sandyleflore.com) x Punchinello (available through: www.sandyleflore.com) x Hanging thread, wire or string x Swarovski crystals (3 large, 3 small) optional x Glue Preparation Sand if needed, seal, and lightly sand again. Painting Instructions Initial Basecoats Basecoat as follows, using the 6 filbert or the brush you prefer. Snowman: Body is Bleached Sand. Scarf is Brilliant Purple. Hat is Lamp Black with an Aqua Sky hatband.

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Gingerbread: Body is Sable Brown, with Bleached Sand frosting. Scarf is Foliage Green. Hat is Wild Berry with a Bleached Sand hatband. Penguin: The black sections are Lamp Black; the light sections are Bleached Sand. The scarf is Aqua Sky. Hat is Foliage Green with a Brilliant Purple hatband. Painting If not noted in the instructions: Use the 1/2 Square Wash (SW) for most floating, the 1/2 Mop to mop the floated areas as needed. Use the 8 Oval Dry Brush (ODB) for scrubbing; and use the 18/0 liner for linework. SNOWMAN’S BODY: 1.) Shade: Use the 1/2 SW and a soft sideload of Burnt Umber to float the shading on the face and body. Deepen if desired, into a dirty brush of Lamp Black. 2.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Aqua Sky to float the tint on the left side of the face and body. Repeat left-side floats with a soft side-load of Bright Blue. Use the same brush and a side-load of Brilliant Purple to float a tint on the right side of the face and body. 3.) Highlight & Texture: Use the 8 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand and the Drywall Adhesive Mesh to scrub the texture effect over the body, arms, and hat’s brim. Use the 8 ODB loaded in a small amount of Snow White to drybrush scrub highlights on the snowman face and body. Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Snow White to float highlights. 4.) Repeat shading and tinting floats (if desired). 5.) Features: Apply the pattern for the features. Using the 1 round, base the eyes in Lamp Black. The nose in Wild Berry; while the nose is wet, tip the dirty brush in Snow White and highlight the top, shade the bottom with Deep Burgundy. Using the 18/0 liner loaded in Lamp Black, line the lashes, brows, and lip lines; tip the dirty brush in Snow White and add the highlight in the eyes and a brighter highlight on the nose (use the 8 flat and the Snow White to float softly over the lower eye highlight). Float small sideloads of Burnt Umber beside the eyes.

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Use the 8 ODB and Wild Berry to dry-brush scrub the cheeks; tip the dirty brush into Deep Burgundy to further deepen and enhance (if desired). With the 18/0 liner loaded in Deep Burgundy, add the tiny heart on the mouth line. Use the 8 flat side-loaded in a touch of Snow White to add the highlight in the cheeks. The twig branches under the hat (it is hair!) are strokes of Burnt Umber. SNOWMAN’S SCARF: 1.) Polka Dots: Use the 6 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand to scrub the Punchinello dot accents (or you can use a polka dot stencil). 2.) Shade: Using the 1/2 SW side-loaded in a brush mix of Brilliant Purple + Lamp Black, shade the scarf. Deepen if needed with a dirty brush into a bit more Lamp Black. 3.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW loaded in Aqua Sky to float the tints on the lower and left sides of the scarf; dirty brush into Tropical Blue to add deeper tones. 4.) Highlight: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Snow White to float the highlight on the scarf. Using the liner loaded in thin Snow White, add the scattered snowflakes. Refloat the tint colors as desired. 5.) Lettering: Use the 1 mid-liner loaded in Lamp Black to stroke the word SNOW. 6.) Fringe: Use the 18/0 liner and thin Brilliant Purple to add the fringe; tip the dirty brush in Lamp Black and add a few darker tones; shade under and around the scarf with Brilliant Purple. Use the 18/0 liner and thin Snow White and stroke softly through the fringe and to add accent strokework. SNOWMAN’S HAT: 1.) Use the 8 ODB and Bleached Sand to drybrush scrub the highlights on the hat. Float highlights with a brush mix of Lamp Black + Bleached Sand (making a grey). 2.) Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Tropical Blue to shade the hatband. Add an accent line of Snow White down through the center. (Foliage instructions are under finishing details.) GINGERBREAD’S BODY: 1.) Shade: Use the 1/2 SW and a soft side-load of Burnt Umber to float the shading on the face and body. Deepen with a dirty brush into Lamp Black. 2.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Foliage Green to float the tint on the right side of the face and body. Use the same brush and a side-load of Wild Berry to float tints on the left side of the face and body. 3.) Highlight & Texture: Use the 8 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand and the Drywall Adhesive Mesh to scrub the texture effect over the body, arms, and hat’s brim. Use the 8 ODB loaded in a small amount of Snow White to drybrush scrub highlights on the ginger’s face and body. Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Bleached Sand to float highlights. 203

4.) Repeat shading and tinting floats (if desired). 5.) Features: Apply the pattern for the features. Using the 1 round, base the eyes in Lamp Black; the nose in Deep Burgundy, while the nose is wet, tip the dirty brush in Bleached Sand and highlight the top. Using the 18/0 liner loaded in Lamp Black, line the lashes, brows, and lip lines; tip the dirty brush in Snow White and add the highlight in the eyes and a brighter highlight on the nose (use the 8 flat and the Snow White to float softly over the lower eye highlight). Use the 8 ODB and a brush mix of Wild Berry + Deep Burgundy to dry brush scrub the cheeks. Use the 18/0 liner loaded in Deep Burgundy, to add the tiny heart on the mouth line. 6.) Frosting: Use the 18/0 liner and Snow White to accent the full, thicker parts of the frosting stroke. Tap a dot of the same color in between the frosting strokes. GINGERBREAD’S SCARF: 1.) Polka Dots: Use the 6 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand to scrub the Punchinello dot accents (or you can use a polka dot stencil). 2.) Shade: Using the 1/2 SW side-loaded in a brush mix of Foliage Green + Evergreen, shade the scarf. Deepen, if needed, with a dirty brush of Evergreen + Lamp Black. 3.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW loaded in Wild Berry to float the tints on the lower and left sides of the scarf; dirty brush into Deep Burgundy to enhance and add a deeper tone. 4.) Highlight: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Snow White to float the highlight on the scarf. Using the liner loaded in thin Snow White, add the scattered snowflakes. Refloat the tint colors as desired. 5.) Lettering: Use the 1 mid-liner loaded in Lamp Black to stroke the word JOY. 6.) Fringe: Use the 18/0 liner and thin Bleached Sand to add the fringe; dirty brush into Snow White to add a few brighter tones. Float over the fringe with a soft side-load of Bleached Sand.

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GINGERBREAD’S HAT: 1.) Using the 1/2 SW and a brush mix of Wild Berry + Deep Burgundy to shade the hat; deepen with Deep Burgundy and then into a touch of Lamp Black if desired. Use the 8 ODB and Bleached Sand to drybrush scrub the highlights on the hat. Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load float of Bleached Sand to also float the highlights on the hat. Further brighten with Snow White, as desired. 2.) Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load brush mix of Foliage Green + Evergreen to tint the left side of the hatband; and a side-load brush mix of Wild Berry + Deep Burgundy to tint the right side. Add an accent line of Snow White down through the center (could also be Deep Burgundy, you choose!). Foliage instructions are under finishing details. PENGUIN’S BODY: 1.) Shade - Light Sections: Use the 1/2 SW and a soft side-load of Burnt Umber to float the shading on the white sections of the face and body. Deepen if desired, with a dirty brush of Lamp Black. 2.) Shade - Dark Sections: Use the 1/2 SW and a soft side-load brush mix of Lamp Black + Bleached Sand to float the color on the dark sections of the face and body. 3.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Bright Blue to float a pretty tint around the scarf and where the fringe will go. On the black sections, float a tint of Foliage Green on the left and Bright Blue on the right. 4.) Highlight & Texture: Use the 8 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand and the Drywall Adhesive Mesh to scrub the texture effect over the body, arms, and hat’s brim. Use the 6 ODB loaded in a small amount of Snow White to drybrush scrub highlights on the penguin face and body. Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Snow White to float highlights. 5.) Repeat shading and tinting floats (if desired). 6.) Features & Feather Effects: Apply the pattern for the features. Using the 1 round, base the eyes in Lamp Black, the beak in Milk Chocolate. While the beak is wet, tip the dirty brush in Snow White and highlight; shade the back edge with Burnt Umber. Using the 8 flat, float beside the eyes and under the beak with a soft side-load of Lamp Black. Using the 18/0 liner loaded in Lamp Black, line the lashes and brows; tip the dirty brush in Snow White and add the highlight in the eyes (use the 8 flat and the Snow White to float softly over the lower eye highlight).

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Use the 8 ODB and Wild Berry to dry-brush scrub the cheeks; tip the dirty brush into Deep Burgundy to further deepen and enhance, if desired. With the 18/0 liner loaded in Lamp Black, add the feathery fringe framing the face and the belly. Use the same brush and a side-load brush mix of Lamp Black + Bleached Sand (making a light grey) to add the feathery strokes on the black sections of the body (just a scattering of them, not too visible). Using the 8 flat and Bleached Sand side-load float a few feather effects over the face and body. PENGUIN’S SCARF: 1.) Polka Dots: Use the 6 ODB loaded in Bleached Sand to scrub the Punchinello dot accents (or you can use a polka dot stencil). 2.) Shade: Using the 1/2 SW side-loaded in a brush mix of Aqua Sky + Tropical Blue, shade the scarf; dirty brush into Lamp Black, to deepen. 3.) Tints: Use the 1/2 SW side-loaded in a brush mix of Foliage Green + Evergreen, float the tints on the lower and left sides of the scarf; dirty brush into Evergreen to further deepen the tone. Float Bright Blue on the right to intensify the tone. 4.) Highlight: Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load of Snow White to float the highlight on the scarf. Using the liner loaded in thin Snow White, add the scattered snowflakes. Refloat the tint colors as desired. 5.) Lettering: Use the 1 mid-liner loaded in Lamp Black to stroke the word. 6.) Fringe: Use the 18/0 liner and thin Lamp Black to begin stroking the fringe; load in thin Tropical Blue and layer. Move to Aqua Sky and then Snow White to further line the fringe effect. Re-float under and around the scarf with Tropical Blue (or Bright Blue) to soften the lines of the fringe, if desired. PENGUIN’S HAT: 1.) Use the 8 ODB and Bleached Sand to drybrush scrub the highlights on the hat. Float a highlight with a brush mix of Foliage Green + Bleached Sand; dirty brush into Snow White to brighten as desired. Shade with Evergreen; deepen with a dirty brush into Lamp Black. Tint the right side with Bright Blue. 2.) Use the 1/2 SW and a side-load brush mix of Brilliant Purple + Lamp Black to shade the hatband. Use the 6 ODB and Snow White to float the highlight through the center. Add an accent line of Snow White down through the center. (Foliage instructions are under finishing details.) FINISHING: 1.) Foliage Detail (on all hats): Use the 6 flat and Evergreen to stroke a few dark leaves on; pull the brush through thin Foliage Green to overstroke and add a few lighter toned leaves. Use the liner loaded in Evergreen (and as needed, Foliage Green) to stroke the fine fir bough effects. Add berry dots of Wild Berry and Deep Burgundy; when dry, float around the berries with a soft side-load of Deep Burgundy. *Optional: Use Swarovski crystals as accents, in place of the dots.

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2.) Snow Tex (optional): Side-load the medium in an old flat and float in random areas on the hats, scarves, and bodies…it will help give it a little dimension. 3.) Glitter (optional): Using an old scruffy, tap the Craft Twinkles onto the Snow Tex areas. 4.) Varnish: Erase any graphite and varnish as desired. Glue the crystals onto the ornament’s texts O letter, if desired. Attach hanging thread or wire. Author’s note: Have fun painting these three frosty friends! I initially used Snow White for the lettering, as you can tell from the step images, so keep that open as an option…you may prefer the lighter toned letters. (Alternately, you could personalize them down the front of the scarves in place of the text!) You may also notice in the final steps of the painting process that I came back in and re-floated the tint colors – it really makes them “pop”! Layer these -lightly, letting them dry well between- and repeat, as many times as pleases your eye. Fun, fun!

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Winter Wonderland Trio© Original Design by Phyllis Spaw phyllisspawdesigns@gmail.com These ornaments were created using the basic 12 set of Primsacolor premier colored pencils, a #2 pencil, and a little bit of acrylic for some of the snow.

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Surface Natural Pine Wood Circles with Bark 3.5-4”, www.Arteza.com General art supplies Most basic art supplies can be purchased at stores that carry craft/art supplies and hardware stores. x #2 Pencil x 6” Flexible Ruler x Blue or Black Transfer Paper x Drill (small drill bit for drilling the hole in the top for the hanger-I used 1/8” bit) x Fine-medium grit sanding sponge or a small piece of sand paper x Hot Glue Gun (glue stick to add hanger) x Jute Twine-Three 4” pieces x Painter’s Tape x Pencil Sharpener x Rag or Paper Towel x Scissors x Silicone Hot Glue Gun Caps x Small Stylus x Tracing Paper x White Eraser Caps - Hi-Polymer Eraser Caps by Pentel-purchased at Walmart Colored pencils x Black-PC935 x Crimson Red-PC934 x Dark Brown-PC946 x Grass Green-PC909 x Orange-PC918 x Sienna Brown-PC945 x Violet Blue-PC933 x White-PC938 Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x DA01 Titanium White Brushes x Filbert #4-6 x Round #1 - or an appropriate size liner brush Sealer x Clear Satin Sealer-Rust-oleum (Always work in a well-ventilated area. Never spray indoors. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the back of the can.)

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Tips Test out the pencils on a piece of cardstock or paper before beginning your project. This will give you the feel for what the colors look like and how much pressure to apply. Keep in mind the color of the wood as opposed to the white paper. The colors may be a bit different when you actually apply them to the wood circle because of the darker color of the wood grain. Also take note that some circles have a more defined wood grain, where others do not. This will also affect the end result. Sharpen your pencils as necessary. When blending you may pick up unwanted color on the pencil you are blending with. For example, if you are using the White to lighten up the blue in the water, you may pick up blue on the White pencil. Simply scribble the unwanted color off onto a piece of paper. None of the circles are identical in size so try to line up the pattern with a circle that is close in size so that the pattern easily fits. Preparation The wood slices came all prepped and ready to use. You may have some that are still a bit rough. Simply sand them off with a fine to medium grit sanding sponge or a piece of sandpaper. Wipe them off with a damp rag to remove any dust. Transferring Pattern Trace the outline of the wood circle for each ornament onto the tracing paper, trace your pattern onto the outline drawing, then cut out the circle shape. Using a small piece of painter’s tape, secure line drawing to the wood slice and transfer the pattern using the transfer paper. Fold the pattern back so that you can add details as needed. (the painter’s tape will act as a hinge) Snow Holding the White pencil flat to the wood circle surface add the snow to the entire ground, using medium to firm pressure. Background Bushes Holding the Sienna Brown pencil flat to the wood circle surface add the bushes using a circular motion, with medium to firm pressure. Repeat until you have good coverage. Add some snow by loading both sides of the small filbert brush with a small amount of Titanium White and lightly tap it off on a rag or paper towel. Using very light pressure, tap it over the bushes, staggering the taps. Pine trees Add the pine trees in Grass Green using medium pressure. Scribble in some Black on top of the green at the bottom of each branch, working from the bottom upwards. Using a firmer pressure come back with some more Grass Green and scribble on top of the Black to blend the two colors together then apply the White pencil for the snow. Tap in a bit of Titanium White on top of all of the branches using the #6 filbert brush. Add the trunk with the Black colored pencil and then highlight in Titanium White using the #1 round brush. Add the shadows in front of and around the pines with Grass Green. Lighten the shadows by blending them together with White. 212

Fences Add the fence posts and wire in a light line of Black and scribble some White on top of that. Add the barbed wire in the farm scene by adding some short little random dashes on top and on the bottom of the wire. Add some Titanium White to all the fences with a bit of Titanium White using the #1 round. Pick up a very small amount of paint when doing so. Weeds Add the weeds in Dark Brown and randomly shadow one side in Black. Add some snow in Titanium White using the #1 round. Other trees Add the other trees in Black using light pressure and lighten up a bit with the White pencil. Lightly brush on some snow in Titanium White using the #1 round. Roofs/Windows/Doors Add all the roofs in White. Lightly shadow with the #2 pencil and blend it out with White. Outline in Black. I added a very light touch of Grass Green to the barn roof on the farm scene and some Crimson Red to the red house scene on the porch section of the roof. Blend them together with the White pencil. Add all of the windows and doors in Black. Cabin Scene Water Apply Violet Blue using fairly light pressure to the entire water area. Add some Black to the outer left side and blend the two colors together with the Violet Blue. Add some White to the center, blending it all the way into the Black. Add some Dark Brown to the right side and a little bit of Black to darken it up a bit more. Add Grass Green to the right bottom side next to the Dark Brown, blending some of it into the Dark Brown. Add some more White, blending the colors together. Lightly brush some Titanium White in a horizontal stroke across the water using the small filbert brush. Cabin Add the cabin using light to medium pressure with Dark Brown. Shadow the darker sides with a light touch of Black and blend together with the Dark Brown. Add the lines on the cabin in Black. Shadows Add some Crimson Red to the left of the snowman and just under the pine on the left using very light pressure. Add some Violet Blue in front of the cabin and in front of the snowman. Lighten up the shadows by applying White on top of them and blend them together.

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Snowman Lightly outline the snowman body with the #2 pencil and color it in with the White pencil. Add his scarf in Crimson Red. Lightly outline in the middle and bottom of the scarf using Black. Blend that into the bottom of the scarf with the Crimson Red. Add his hat, buttons, and eyes in Black. Add his nose in Orange. Use #2 pencil to add his arms. With the #1 round brush, add a small amount of Titanium White to his arms. Lightly outline him again using the #2 pencil if needed. Farm Scene Barn Add the barn using medium pressure with Crimson Red. Very lightly add some White to the front of the barn and blend it out with some Crimson Red. Add the shadow to the left side in Dark Brown and blend it out with the Crimson Red. Create the stone part of the barn using light pressure with Sienna Brown. Add a bit of shading on the left side in Dark Brown and blend it out with the Sienna Brown. Add stones in Dark Brown and darken some of them with Black. Add some Crimson Red in front of the barn and blend it out with the White. Silo Using very light pressure add Black to the silo and blend it out with White. Add some light shading to the left side of the silo with the #2 pencil. Add the lines in Black. Lightly brush in some Titanium White to the top of the silo using the small round or liner brush. House and Garage Add the house and garage in White. Very lightly shadow with Black and blend it with White. Add the lines with the #2 pencil. Pond I added the water using light pressure in Violet Blue around the entire outside of the pond, keeping the center White. Then add a bit of Black to the area around the fence. Using the White, blend the two colors together. Add Crimson Red in the center on the left side and Grass Green on the right side, then blend them out with White. Repeat until you are satisfied. Red House Scene House Add the house in Crimson Red and shade the right side using light pressure in Black. Blend the two colors together with Crimson Red. Add a shadow of Crimson Red in front of the house and blend out with White.

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Road Add the road in Sienna Brown. Add Dark Brown to the outer edges pulling some of it inward. Blend the edge of the Dark Brown with the Sienna Brown. With a small, damp filbert brush and a very small amount of paint lightly tap and brush in a bit of snow here and there in the center of the road using Titanium White. Seal Spray with a couple of light coats of clear satin sealer. Allow to dry in between coats. Never use indoors. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the back of the can for proper use.

Hanger Cut three, 4” pieces of jute twine and set aside. Drill a hole in the top of the center of the wood circle with a small drill bit. I like to drill about 1/2” down. Make sure you have it centered so that the ornament will hang correctly. Line the ends of the twine up, squeeze them together, and add a small drop of hot glue to hold them together. Add a drop of hot glue to the hole you just drilled and push the jute piece into the hole to where you squeezed the jute string together. You can use a small stylus or a similar tool to help push it in the hole. Add a little bit of hot glue to the top of the hole once you have it in place and hold it down until it is dry. Allow to dry completely before hanging. Be careful with the hot glue not to burn yourself. Use the silicone hot glue gun caps for your protection.

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Winter Wonders Original Design by Deb Mishima These three adorable birdhouses will be a delightful addition to your Christmas decorations. The soft color palette lends so beautifully to a snowy winter scene.

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Surface #31-L791 :LQWHU :RQGHUV NLW from Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique White x Bleached Sand x Coral Blush x Fawn x Hauser Medium Green x Heritage Brick x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk x Light Sage x Snow White

x x x x x x x x

Soft Black Soft Sage (or 2 parts Warm White and 1 part Hauser Medium Green) Sugared Peach True Ochre Warm Beige Warm White Wild Berry Yellow Ochre

DecoArt Mediums x All Purpose Sealer x Chalky Finish, Timeless x Galaxy Glitter Clear Ice Comet x Galaxy Glitter, Red Nebula x Glamour Dust Sprinkle On Glitter, Crystal x Matte Medium x SnowTex Additional Supplies x ½” Flurry Snowflake #31-L044, www.cdwood.com x 2 x 1” Primitive Hearts #31-L632, www.cdwood.com x 3 ¼” Holly Berries and Leaves #31-L342, www.cdwood.com x 5/8” Paper or Fabric Snowflakes x Ball Stylus x Chalk Pencil, White x Chris’s Painter Pal x Glue Gun x Micron .01 Black Pen x Paper Towels x Rusty Star Wire Garland x Saral Wax Free Transfer Paper, White x Snowflakes: 2 x 1 ¼” Frost Snowflake #31-L049 x Stencil: Small Stars (your choice or freehand) x Thin White Wire (to attach sign to birdhouse)

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Brushes: Jo Sonja x Assorted Stipple and Dry Brushes x Sure Touch Angle 3/8”, ½” #1345 x Sure Touch Oval Wash ¼”, 3/8: 1/2” #1318 x Sure Touch Script Liner 18/0 #1365 x Sure Touch White Mop ½”, ¾”, #1317 Preparation DO NOT SAND MDF If using a wood surface, sand surface until smooth. Apply Multi Purpose Sealer, lightly sand smooth, and wipe clean. Painting Instructions Basecoat all the surfaces with Chalky Finish, Timeless. Lightly dry brush with Warm White. Signs Shade down the sides and above the striped border with Antique White. Highlight along the top of the sign with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Line and dot snowflakes with Snow White. After all the painting on the signs is finished line the lettering and stitching with the Black Micron Pen. Trace on the main patterns. Deck the Halls Birdhouse: Basecoat the bottom area of the birdhouse with Sugared Peach. Basecoat the roof with Light Sage. Dry brush both areas softly with Warm White. Trace on the details. Shade Warm Beige under the roof, around the bird and around the black hole. Highlight Warm White along the bottom. Basecoat the wide stripes with Snow White. Line the thin stripes Heritage Brick Softly deepen the shading with Wild Berry and again with Heritage Brick. Basecoat the hole with Soft Black. Shade around the inside edge with Lamp Black. Dry brush with Warm White. Line the stitching along the bottom of the birdhouse with Lamp Black. 219

Shade around the roof edges with Soft Sage. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Line the vine and wispy tendrils with Hauser Medium Green. Using Chris’s Painters Pal and Sugared Peach, stencil the berries onto the vine. Shade Warm Beige on the left side of each berry. Highlight the opposite side of each berry with Warm White. Softly deepen the shading with Wild Berry and again with Heritage Brick. Add little dots with the ball stylus here and there along the vine using Wild Berry and Snow White. Bird: Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. Trace on the details. Shade Antique White under the brim of the toque (hat), under the wing, along the top of the body, between the tail feathers and then along the top edge of the top tail feather and the bottom edge of the bottom tail feather. Highlight Warm White along the bottom edge of the top tail feather and the top edge of the bottom tail feather. Softly deepen the shading with Fawn. Add a float shade of Warm Beige here and there in the shaded areas. Dry brush the cheeks and base coat the beak with Coral Blush. Basecoat the eyes with Lamp Black. Line and dot the eye with Snow White. Line the lashes Lamp Black. Shade the beak along the bottom with Heritage Brick. Line the hair with Snow White. Dot the wing and tail feathers with Wild Berry and Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the toque with Light Sage. Shade Soft Sage above the brim and along both sides walking the color inwards. Dry brush Warm White. Softly deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Stipple the Pom Pom with Warm White. Line the fur on the Pom Pom with Snow White. Line all the little bows with Lamp Black. Holly Leaves and Berries: Basecoat the leaves with Light Sage. Trace on the berries. 220

Shade along the edges of the leaves and above the berries with Soft Sage. Softly dry brush with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Line the veins Hauser Medium Green. Dot Snow White. Line and dot the snowflakes with Snow White. Paint the berries on the holly the same as the berries on the roof. Deck the Halls Sign: Basecoat all green stripes with Light Sage. Shade along the left sides with Soft Sage. Highlight the right sides with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Line with Snow White. Basecoat all pink stripes with Sugared Peach. Shade along the left sides with Wild Berry. Highlight the right sides with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Wild Berry. Deepen again with Heritage Brick. Dot with Wild Berry and Hauser Medium Green. Let it Snow Birdhouse: Basecoat the bottom of the birdhouse with Bleached Sand. Trace on the details. Shade Antique White under the roof and along both sides walking the color inwards. Highlight along the bottom with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Dry brush Warm White here and there avoiding the shaded areas. Randomly add some plank lines coming from under the roof down with Fawn. Float shade a little down the plank lines, and here and there down the sides with Fawn and again with a bit of Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the holes with Soft Black. Shade around the inside edges with Lamp Black. Dry brush with Warm White. Using Snow White paint some snow on the bottom edge of the hole. Line the stitching around the bottom of the birdhouse with Lamp Black. Line the vine above the main hole with Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the little leaves lightly with Hauser Medium Green. Dot the berries with Wild Berry and Snow White. Line the stitching along the bottom of the bird house with Lamp Black. Roof Squares: Basecoat the green squares with Light Sage. Shade along the right sides and the top of of each square with Soft Sage. Highlight the left sides with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Randomly dot with Snow White. 221

Basecoat the pink squares with Sugared Peach. Shade along the right sides and along the top of each square with Wild Berry. Highlight the left sides with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Line between the squares with Snow White. Randomly dot with Snow White. Bird: Basecoat the bird’s head and tail feathers with Light Buttermilk. Trace on the details. Dry brush here and there with Warm White. Shade Antique White between the tail feathers, under the brim of the toque, around the eyes, and above the beak. Highlight Warm White along the outside edges of the tail feathers. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Basecoat the eyes Lamp Black. Line and dot them with Snow White. Line the lashes and brows with Lamp Black. Line the hair with Snow White. Basecoat the beak with Yellow Ochre. Shade along the left side with True Ochre. Line the top with Snow White. Dry brush a little Coral Blush in the middle of the beak. Basecoat the brim of the toque with Sugared Peach. Shade Wild Berry down the sides and along the bottom. Highlight Warm White along the top. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dry brush a little Warm White in the middle of the brim. Basecoat the top of the toque with Light Sage. Shade Soft Sage above the brim. Highlight Warm White along the top. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Dry brush a little Warm White in the middle of the toque top. Line with Bleached Sand. Let It Snow Sign: Basecoat the green stripes with Light Sage. Shade with Soft Sage along the left side. Highlight with Warm White along the right side. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the pink stripes with Sugared Peach. Shade the left side with Wild Berry. Highlight the right side with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dot with Snow White. Randomly line and dot some snowflakes onto the sign. Basecoat the snowflakes with Snow White. Tis the Season Birdhouse: Basecoat the bottom of the bird house with Light Sage. Dry brush with Warm White. Trace on the details. Basecoat the hole with Soft Black. Shade around the border with Lamp Black. Dry brush with Warm White. Paint some snow onto the bottom of the hole with Snow White. Using the small stars stencil and Bleached Sand randomly stencil the stars onto the background.

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Shade Soft Sage under the roof, around the bird, down the sides and around the stars. Highlight Warm White around the outside of the hole. Deepen the shading very lightly with a little Hauser Medium Green. Randomly float some plank lines coming from the roof down with Hauser Medium Green. Shade around the inside edge of the hole with Lamp Black. Line the stitching around the bottom part of the birdhouse with Lamp Black Roof Squares: Basecoat the light squares with Bleached Sand. Dry brush with a little Warm White. Shade down the left side and along the top with Antique White. Highlight down the right side with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Float some Warm Beige where the shading is. Add lines of Hauser Medium Green and Snow White down the left side. Basecoat the pink squares with Sugared Peach. Dry brush with a little Warm White. Shade down the left side and along the top with Wild Berry. Highlight down the right side with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dot with Snow White. Highlight Warm White along the bottom of all the squares. Line the fir boughs with Hauser Medium Green. Using Chris’s Painters Pal and Sugared Peach stencil the berries onto the boughs. Shade between the berries and here and there on the side of the berries with Wild Berry. Highlight Warm White on the opposite side of the shading. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dot with Snow White. Bird: Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. Trace on the details. Dry brush here and there with Warm White. Shade Antique White between the tail feathers, around the wing, around the head and under the scarf. Highlight Warm White on the inside edge of the tail feathers, around the inside edge of the wing and along the bottom of the body. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Dry brush the cheeks with Coral Blush. Basecoat the eye with Lamp Black. Line and dot the inside of the eye with Snow White. Line the lashes with Lamp Black. Line the hair with Snow White. Basecoat the beak with Coral Blush. Shade along the bottom with Heritage Brick.

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Basecoat the scarf with Sugared Peach. Shade down the left side of each scarf tail, down the sides of the main scarf area, under the fold, here and there down the right side to help show movement, and around the button and wing. Highlight Warm White along the right side of each scarf tail, along the top of the main scarf area, along the top of the fold and here and there along the right side. Line the scarf with Snow White. Dot the tail feathers and wings with Wild Berry and Snow White. Basecoat the button with Light Sage. Shade around the button with Soft Sage. Dry brush in the middle with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Line the thread with Lamp Black. Tis the Season Sign: Basecoat the green stripes with Light Sage. Shade Soft Sage down the left side. Highlight Warm White down the right side. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Basecoat the pink stripes with Sugared Peach. Shade Wild Berry down the left side. Highlight Warm White down the right side. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dot with Snow White. Basecoat the light stripes with Bleached Sand. Shade Antique White down the left side. Highlight Warm White down the right side. Deepen the shading with Fawn. Float shade down the shaded side with Warm Beige. Line between the stripes with Snow White. Hearts: Basecoat with Sugared Peach. Shade the left side with Wild Berry. Highlight the right side with Warm White. Deepen the shading with Heritage Brick. Dry brush a little in the middle with Warm White. Finishing Touches: Using Snow White add snow and icicles to the bottom of the roof line. Brush Galaxy Glitter Red Nebula to the red squares on the roof of Let it Snow; on the berries that are on the roof and in the holly berries on the sign in Deck the Halls and in the red squares on the roof on the Tis the Season. Brush Galaxy Glitter Clear Ice Comet on the berries on the roof in Tis the Season Brush the snowflakes for the Let it Snow plaque with Matte Medium. While still damp sprinkle on Glamour Dust. Shake off the excess. Glue a little paper snowflake and button onto the top of the toque on the Let it Snow plaque. Glue the Snowflakes onto the Let it Snow plaque and sign. Glue the holly leaves and berries onto the Deck the Halls sign. Glue the hearts onto the Tis the Season sign. Take the thin white wire and run it through the bottom of the birdhouses and the signs to join them. Curly cue the ends by wrapping them around the end of a paintbrush handle. 224

Splatter the houses and signs with Snow White. Apply SnowTex to the roofs of the birdhouses. Run the Rusty Star Garland Wire through the top hole for a hanger.

Line drawings at 100%.

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Winter’s Fish Whispers Original Design by Debby Forshey-Choma These three fishermen are patiently waiting in the chilly weather for the fish to bite!

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Surface 3 – Rectangle Groove Ornaments (5” tall x 2-3/4” wide x 1/8” thick MDF) SKU: 31-L537 available through www.cdwood.com. Miscellaneous Supplies x 12” – 22 gauge Fun Wire #84717 Icy Silver available through www.tonerplastics.com x C-Thru Graph Ruler x Spattering Tool x Tapered Candle DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Asphaltum x Black Green x Blue Chiffon x Blue Mist x Celery Green x Deep Midnight Blue x Driftwood x Fawn x Graphite x Grey Sky x Heritage Brick

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Honey Brown Moody Blue Raw Umber Sand Grey Slate Grey Snow White White Peach Williamsburg Blue Winter Blue Yellow Ochre

DecoArt Sealers/Finishes x Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Spray. Matte x DuraClear Matte Varnish x Multi-Purpose Sealer Royal Brushes x #1360 – sm, med, lg Debby’s Texture brushes x #1400 – ½ SG White Blending Mop x #3080 – 1 Oval Wash Combo x #4150 – 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12 Majestic shaders x #4160 – 5/8 Majestic angle x #4170 – 8, 10 Majestic filberts x #4585 – 5/0 Majestic liner x #4700 – ¾ Majestic glaze wash x #R2114 – small silk sponge Preparation Seal the entire ornament with Multi-Purpose Sealer using the glaze wash brush. Lightly sand and wipe off with a lint-free cloth. Basecoating Ornaments Basecoat the entire ornament with Raw Umber using the glaze wash brush. Two coats are efficient.

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Candle Wax Distressing Rub candle wax vertically on areas that you want the Raw Umber to show.

Using glaze wash brush, apply one coat of Winter Blue over the front and back sides of each ornament. When dry, lightly sand ornament surface. For further distressing, re-sand the areas where the candle wax was applied. Continue until you have achieved the desired effect. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Sponging Background Dampen the silk sponge with clean water and squeeze out excess. Pick up thinned Deep Midnight Blue on the sponge, tap off on your palette, then lightly and randomly dance over the surface of each ornament.

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TIP: When dry, lightly mist with matte acrylic spray. You can lock down acrylic paint with matte acrylic spray at any time during the painting process to preserve previous work. This allows for fearless painting of the next steps, as any unwanted results may be wiped off without harming the underlying work. Transfer Horizon Transfer the horizon and winter tree top line on ornaments #1 and #3. Distant Winter Trees (ornaments #1 and #3) To prevent over-sponging, tape off the horizon line to provide a sharp horizon edge. Dampen the silk sponge with clean water, squeeze out excess. Pick up Fawn on the bottom half of the sponge, Snow White at the top, lightly dance on your palette to blend between the two colors. Tap the winter trees along the horizon, working from the horizon up. Vary sizes and shapes so the trees will not be too uniform. Keep the trees hazy – in the distance. Lightly and randomly dance extra Snow White across the top of the trees to brighten. Using the 5/0 liner and thinned Asphaltum, line the branches sparingly in the trees, pulling from the bottom up. Don’t create too many branches as the trees are in the distance.

Distant Pines (ornaments #1 and #3) With a pencil transfer the center line for each pine. Work only on a couple of the lighter color pines at a time. Slightly pre-dampen the surface area with clean water. This will help the paint bleed, giving the boughs a softer effect, and place them in the distance. Load chisel edge of 8 filbert with Blue Mist. Using the chisel edge, slightly pull the top of the pine. Tap horizontally from left to right to create the boughs, slowly, and slightly widening towards the base of the pine. Allow a bit of the background to show through so the pine doesn’t look like a solid triangle. Repeat steps with Blue Mist, randomly tapping on a few boughs to deepen. 233

When dry, repeat the same steps with Snow White to highlight. For the darker pines, start with Black Green and repeat above steps to complete.

Transferring Design Transfer the designs to the appropriate surfaces (just not the foreground foliage on each ornament); refer to photo for placement. Use the graph ruler to aid in the transfer of any straight lines, by dragging the stylus along the ruler’s edge. Ice Pond Using 12 shader and a mixture of Grey Sky and Winter Blue (1:1), wash over the ice pond areas on all three ornaments. When dry, corner load the angle with Williamsburg Blue. Float a wide shade along the horizons on ornaments #1 and #3. Float a very wide shade of Williamsburg Blue along the foreground edge of each ornament, mop if necessary. Pre-dampen the area along the horizon with clean water, using the medium Texture brush and Snow White, lightly and randomly dance snow in along the horizon.

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Painting Shanties and Fishermen Use the appropriate size shaders to basecoat the shanties. The appropriate size liners to pull wall lines. Use the appropriate size shaders to wash over the shade side walls; corner load the angle to float shade on the opposite wall. Each numbered step will contain instructions to complete the shanty. Refer to line drawing for numbering. Shanties #1 and #4 Eggshell mixture (Sand Grey + Celery Green 2/1) – basecoat walls Slate Grey – paint wall lines, float shading across top of walls Graphite – with the 5/0 liner, paint the roofs and chimneys Shanty #2 Slate Grey – basecoat walls Graphite – paint wall lines, wash over right wall, float shading across top of left wall Graphite – basecoat the roof, float a Slate Grey highlight across the bottom edge Graphite – paint the side roof line and chimney Shanties #3 and #5 Honey Brown – basecoat walls Asphaltum – paint wall lines, wash over left wall on #3, right wall on #5, float shading across top of opposite walls Slate Grey – basecoat the roof, float a Graphite shade across the top of the roof Windows and Doors With the appropriate size shader, base the windows and doors: Yellow Ochre – yellow windows Graphite – dark windows and doors Corner load the angle with Heritage Brick, float a shade tint across the top of the Yellow Ochre windows. With the 5/0 liner and Snow White, outline the windows, line the window panes and door handles. With the 5/0 liner and Graphite, line the top frame across the top of the doors. To create the smoke, corner load the angle with Grey Sky, float a highlight coming out of each chimney. Fishermen #1 Honey Brown – basecoat jacket Deep Midnight Blue – basecoat pants Graphite – basecoat boots and mitten Asphaltum – float shading on jacket Slate Grey – float highlights on pants and boots White Peach – pull a stroke for the face

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Fishermen #2 and #4 Heritage Brick – basecoat jackets Deep Midnight Blue – basecoat pants on #2 Graphite – basecoat boots, mittens Honey Brown – basecoat stump on #4 Asphaltum – float shade on stump on #4 Deep Midnight Blue – float shade on jackets Slate Grey – float highlight on pants and boots White Peach – pull a stroke for the faces Fishermen #3 Moody Blue – basecoat jacket Graphite – basecoat boots and mitten Honey Brown – basecoat stump Deep Midnight Blue – float shade on jacket Slate Grey – float highlight on boots Asphaltum – float shade on stump White Peach – pull a stroke for the face Fishing Holes Corner load the angle with Deep Midnight Blue, float shading around the inside of each fishing hole. With the 5/0 liner and Asphaltum, line the fishing poles. Then chisel float* shading under each shanty, fishermen and fishing poles with Deep Midnight Blue. *Chisel float by corner loading the angle, blend off on your palette, lay the bristles of the brush flat on the surface, chisel edge up. Push the paint on the bristles front left to right in a scratching motion, allowing the bristles to pull a broken line that is slightly floated. With the small Texture brush and Snow White, randomly dance snow on the roofs, under the shanties, fishermen, etc; refer to photo for placement. For the proper use of the Texture Brush, use the following method. Dampen the bristles with water to start the separation of bristles. Tap bristles into the paint on your palette, hold it perpendicular to your palette, pounce it up and down to get some of the paint off – keeping the paint sparse on the brush. Note – this brush can be used on the whole foot or just the toe. Tap lightly on the surface, dance up and down with the brush, rolling the brush in different directions in between your fingers when it is up in the air (like dancing the twist, light on your feet). Allow some drying time in between dances so the paint sets up and you don’t end up with a globby or muddy look.

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Window Tints Corner load the angle with thinned Yellow Ochre, lightly and randomly float tints on the shanty walls, snow and ice under the yellow windows. Foreground Shrubs With the large Texture brush and Black Green, dance in the foreground shrubs. Randomly repeat step; to deepen. With the large Texture brush and Snow White, lightly and randomly dance over the shrubs, for snow and separation.

Closeup of Shrubs

Closeup of Pines

Closeup of Birch

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Foreground Pines Repeat step Distant Pines above, using Black Green with the 10 filbert. Birch Tree Load the 6 shader across the chisel edge with Driftwood. Stand brush up on the chisel edge and pull the two trunks for the birch tree. Corner load the angle with Asphaltum, float a shade down the right side of each trunk. Corner load with Snow White, float a highlight down the left sides. Double load the 5/0 liner with Asphaltum and Graphite, randomly pull the bark markings across the right side of the trunks on a slight curve to give a rounded effect. With the 5/0 liner and Snow White, randomly repeat the previous step. Then with the 5/0 liner and thinned Asphaltum, create the thinner branches. Falling Snow With thinned Snow White and the Spattering Tool, lightly spatter falling snow over each design. Finishing To protect your painted pieces, use Oval Wash Combo brush and DuraClear Matte Varnish to varnish the ornaments. This brush doesn’t leave any visible brushstroke marks after the varnish has dried. Finishing Touches Cut the Fun Wire into 3 – 4” pieces, pull the ends through the top hole of each ornament, from the backside to the front and then bend over top edges. For any questions concerning this design you can contact Debby at debbyforshey@gmail.com, visit her web site www.DebbysTouch.com, Facebook or Instagram. Copyright 2021, Debby Forshey-Choma. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. Photocopying or any type of mechanical electronic reproduction of any part of this pattern packet or the designs herein are prohibited, except purchaser may mechanically electronically enlarge or reduce patterns for their personal use. If this pattern packet is purchased as an e-Pattern or CD, you may not re-sell the pdf file, nor make copies of the pdf files for re-sale or to give away. The projects created from the patterns in this pattern packet may be personally painted by purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e., at local craft shows, on internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet I do ask that you please give me credit for the design in your description. The designs cannot be used to create web graphics. The product created from or any derivative product made from the designs in this pattern packet cannot be mass produced in any form without a licensing agreement from Debby Forshey-Choma. Note to Teachers/Shop Owners…You may not teach this design or your adaptation of it unless a pattern is purchased for each student. I will be happy to sell patterns (print or digital) for each student at a wholesale discount so they can be included with the class supplies at a nominal cost. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of information presented, I cannot guarantee results, nor will I be liable for any charges against the user for claims of copyright or patent infringement. Please note that with printing differences it is difficult to match the images in this pattern packet to the original pieces, although every effort has been made to do so. Therefore, your finished project may look a little different in color than the images in this pattern packet. The colors used in the project instructions are the ones used by me to paint the finished projects.

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Line drawings at 100%.

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Surface x 1 x 7 ½” Bracket Tag #31-9389 www.cdwood.com x 2 x 4 ½” Square Bracket Ornaments #31-L237 www.cdwood.com Supplies x 1/8” Polka-dot Stencil x Baby Wipes x Identi-Pen x Makeup Sponges x Stamp: Woodland Deer Perfectly Clear Stamp #SSC1327, Available from www.paintingwithdeb.ca or www.stampendous.com x Sticky Notes Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Asphaltum x Blue Chiffon x Burlap x Burnt Sienna x Cactus Flower x Cotton Candy x Dried Clay x Espresso x Green Tree x Jadeite Green x Kelly Green x Lamp Black

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Light Buttermilk Light Lime Oyster Beige Pink Chiffon Snow “Titanium” White Sugared Peach Tropical Blue Turquoise Blue Warm White Whispering Turquoise Wild Berry

Mediums x DecoArt Holographic Illusions – Crystal Ball x DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer x DecoArt Ultra Matte Varnish (or DecoArt Matte Medium) Brushes: available from www.thebrushguys.com x #2, #4 Round 206R x #4, #6, #8, ¾” Flat Shaders x ¼” and ½” Angle Shaders x ½” Dynasty Stencil Pro Brush x 10/0 or 20/0 Script Liner 206SL x 5/0 Liner x 5/8” Mop Brush (Decorator Series 400) x Dynasty Black Gold (206 Series)

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Preparation භ Basecoat the board with a coat of DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer mixed 1:1 with Burlap. Let dry. Sand lightly. භ Basecoat with Burlap. භ Stencil the background with 1/8” Polka-dot stencil and Warm White. භ Trace on the Pattern. භ Shade around all the design with Espresso.

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Painting Instructions Girl Ornament: Face – භ Basecoat with Sugared Peach. Shade with Dried Clay. භ Drybrush the cheeks with Cactus Flower. භ Dot the eyes with Lamp Black. Dot the pupils and the cheeks with Warm White. Hair – භ Line in the hair by pulling from the hat down towards the tips with the liner brush loaded with Dried Clay. භ Shade under the hat with Burnt Sienna. Scarf – භ Basecoat with Jadeite. Shade with Green Tree. භ Float highlights with Light Lime. භ Deepen shading with Kelly Green. භ Brighten highlights with Warm White. Hat and Dress – භ Basecoat with Cotton Candy. භ Shade with Cactus Flower. Highlight with Pink Chiffon. භ Deepen shading with Wild Berry. භ Brighten highlights with Warm White. භ Basecoat the hatband and pompom with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Burlap. Highlight with Warm White. Mittens – භ Basecoat with Whispering Turquoise. භ Shade with Turquoise Blue. Highlight with Blue Chiffon. භ Deepen shading with Tropical Blue. භ Mitten cuff is the same as the hatband. Owl – භ භ භ භ

Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Burlap. Highlight with Warm White. Paint the beak with Dried Clay. Eyes - paint with Lamp Black, dot with Warm White

Leggings – භ Basecoat with Warm White. Highlight with Snow “Titanium” White. භ Line the stripes with Whispering Turquoise.

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Boots – භ Basecoat with Dried Clay. භ Shade with Burnt Sienna. Highlight with Sugared Peach. භ Deepen shading with Asphaltum. භ Line and dot the snowflake with Snow “Titanium” White. භ Paint the green cuff the same as the scarf. Fox Ornament: Fox – භ Basecoat the brown areas with Dried Clay. භ Shade with Burnt Sienna. Highlight the top of the head with Sugared Peach. භ Deepen shading with Espresso. භ Deepen shading again with Asphaltum. භ Basecoat the white sections with Light Buttermilk. භ Shade with Burlap. Highlight with Warm White. භ Brighten highlights with Snow “Titanium” White. භ Paint inside the ears with Cotton Candy. Shade with Cactus Flower. Highlight with Pink Chiffon. භ Dot the eyes and the nose with Lamp Black. Dot the pupils with Warm White. භ Line the whiskers with Lamp Black. Sweater – භ Basecoat the green sections with Jadeite. භ Shade with Green Tree. Float highlights with Light Lime. භ Deepen shading with Kelly Green. Brighten highlights with Warm White. භ Basecoat the pink sections with Cotton Candy. භ Shade with Cactus Flower. Highlight with Pink Chiffon. භ Deepen shading with Wild Berry. Brighten highlights with Warm White. භ Basecoat the blue with Whispering Turquoise. භ Shade with Turquoise Blue. Highlight with Blue Chiffon. භ Deepen shading with Tropical Blue. Bear Ornament: Bear – භ Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. භ Shade with Burlap. Highlight with Warm White. භ Brighten highlights with Snow “Titanium” White. භ Basecoat the nose area with Burlap. Shade with Espresso. Float the cheeks with Cactus Flower. භ Paint inside the ears with Cotton Candy. Shade with Cactus Flower. Highlight with Pink Chiffon. භ Paint the nose and dot the eyes with Lamp Black. Dot the pupils and line a highlight on the nose with Warm White. භ Line and dot the mouth with Lamp Black, Dot the cheeks with Warm White. 244

Hat and Sweater – භ Basecoat the green sections with Jadeite. භ Shade with Green Tree. Float highlights with Light Lime. භ Deepen shading with Kelly Green. Brighten highlights with Warm White. භ Basecoat the blue with Whispering Turquoise. භ Shade with Turquoise Blue. Highlight with Blue Chiffon. භ Deepen shading with Tropical Blue. Brighten highlights with Warm White. භ Basecoat the pompom with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Burlap. Highlight with Warm White. භ Basecoat the candy cane with Warm White. භ Paint the pink stripes with Cactus Flower. Shade with Wild Berry. භ Line a highlight along the entire candy cane with Snow “Titanium” White. Stamping: Tip – before stamping, varnish with DecoArt Ultra-Matte Varnish (or Matte Medium). This will protect your painting from any stamping mishaps. If the project is protected, you should be able to wipe off a bad stamp with a baby wipe if done quickly. Tip – Use a sticky note to mask off any parts of the design that you do not want stamped. භ Load the makeup sponge with Lamp Black then apply to the stamp. භ Quickly stamp your image by applying gentle even pressure. භ Wash the stamps with soap and water when finished.

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Doodles: භ Use the Identi-pen to add all the little doodles, lines, and circles. Finishing: භ Finish the sides of the ornaments with alternating checks of Light Buttermilk and Lamp Black. භ Outline as desired with Lamp Black. භ Dot the small circles on the hats and scarf with Snow “Titanium” White. භ Varnish with DecoArt Media Ultra Matte Varnish. භ Add glitter! Thickly dot the center of all the snowflakes and tap in the snow areas on the trees with DecoArt Holographic Illusions – Crystal Ball. Let dry. භ Spatter the ornaments with Snow “Titanium” White.

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