October 2020 Table of Contents Phyllis Spaw
Lorraine Morison
4-9
55-61
Sandy Kelsey
Anita Campanella
Winter Wonderland Tea Pot
All I Want for Christmas
11-22
Sunny Tonini
Christmas Centerpiece Pillow Cover
Christmas Ribbon Platter
Susan Cochrane 6QR Happy Santa
99-103
Sharon Cook
Elfi Time
Reindeer Rendezvous
62-67
104-114
Jane Allen
Deb Mishima
Holiday Hearts
That Magic Moment
69-74
116-123
Harpa Mikac
Anita Morin
Karen WisnerDyar
32-38
75-79
24-31
Magical Saint Nick
Paola Bassan Santa & Rudy
39-47
Linda Hollander Be Naughty
48-53
Joy for Cookies
Thyme to Bake
124-133
Sharon Bond
November Sneak Peek
81-90
Page 13
Juggling Our Way Thru the Holidays
Elisabetta de Maria, CDA
A Sweet Lullaby
91-97
Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate; palettepixels@gmail.com Executive Editor: Susan Mynyk; pixelatedsusan@gmail.com Copyright Notice: ©2020 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine. The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed. Reproduction of 2 editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.
Welcome to the October issue of the Pixelated Palette. Here in Ohio the trees are wearing the most beautiful hues of red, orange, and yellow. But in Pixelated Palette Land, we are currently dreaming of a White Christmas! Our cover artist, Phyllis Spaw, invites us to a secluded farm, complete with a cheery snowman welcoming skaters to the frozen pond. What a picturesque winter sight! This month, we are delighted to introduce two new artists making their debut, Harpa Mikac and Paola Bassan. Harpa has created a truly Magical Saint Nick. Her portrait of Santa is depicted with a stunning, windswept beard and rosy cheeks. Offset by a dark background, this is a mesmerizing study of holiday bliss. In Paola’s design, Santa and Rudy, we get a glimpse of Santa and his top reindeer, Rudy, sharing a moment of Christmas Cheer before the big night. I just love Rudy’s festive candy cane antlers, complete with joyful decoration! Speaking of reindeer, Sharon Cook’s deer are decked out for the season. Sporting festive saddles and hats, these adorable ornaments also have beaded hooves and shiny red noses! There are many other jolly characters nestled within these pages! How about a Christmas Bunny?? That Magic Moment shows Deb Mishima’s lop eared friend preparing for the holidays. Joining the party, Anita Campanella’s Elfi Time, painted on an unusual surface, features two of Santa’s best assistants. Cookies? Yum! Anita Morin’s Joy for Cookies showcases a pig baking his favorite holiday treats! And every child wishes for a puppy under the tree on Christmas morning… Sandy Kelsey has captured the moment of joy, when two hearts collide, and laughter fills the room. So, grab those brushes! Together, we can deliver smiles and spread some much-needed joy this holiday season! Happy Painting, Lindsey
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Original Design by Phyllis Spaw
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This is an old teapot I picked up at a thrift store. After painting a winter scene on its curved face, I added some pine and pinecones. What an adorable winter centerpiece for the kitchen. If you tucked some flavored teas in among the pines it would be a thoughtful gift for a tea lover! Surface * Old teapot-purchased at a thrift store. Supplies * Usual Acrylic Tools * Snowflake stencil-#201 Nordic snowflake border www.plumpurdy.com * Rubber gloves-optional * Pine branches * Pointed tip cotton swabs (optional) * Wire cutter * Pinecones * Flexible ruler * Hand sanitizer * Palette knife * Brush cleaner * Paint palette * Pencil * Water basin * Eraser * Rags, or paper towels * Small stylus * Tracing paper * Painter’s tape * Hot glue/hot glue sticks * Blue or white transfer paper * Old toothbrush or flicking tool for doing snow Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics * Burnt Umber DA064 * Deep Burgundy DA128 * Deep Midnight Blue DA166 * Desert Sand DA077 * Lamp Black DA067 * Plantation Pine DA113 * Raw Sienna DA093 * Titanium White DA01 Mediums: * Black satin enamel spray paint-I purchased mine at Ace hardware * Clear satin sealer-Rust-oleum Brushes: Dynasty * #14 and #6 Series 200 * #2 round * #6 filbert * 1/4” dry brush Brushes: Royal * #10 filbert
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Tips * Please be sure to read all the instructions before beginning your project. * Refer to color photo, or worksheets for shading and highlighting. * Unless otherwise specified, I usually thin my paints slightly before I begin to paint. If the instructions note to use thinned paint, you will need to thin it down a bit more. It is most likely for outlining, for which the paint should be close to ink like consistency. * You can shade or highlight by either floating or dry brushing the paint. * I do touch ups as I move throughout the painting. * I use pointed tip cotton swabs to remove unwanted paint in small areas. * I will note each time I change brush sizes. * You may need to add more than one application of paint to some areas. Apply as necessary for opaque coverage. Preparation For best results, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the back of the paint can. When spraying paint, be sure to work in a well ventilated area. Clean teapot of any dust or dirt with a wet rag. Allow to dry and paint it with the black satin enamel spray paint. Allow to dry and spray 1-2 more coats until you have a good coverage. Allow to dry overnight. Trace your pattern on to the tracing paper and cut around the oval shape design leaving some excess to tape onto the tea pot. Transfer just the oval shape onto the teapot and remove the pattern for now. Using painter’s tape, tape off the oval shape around the outer edge to protect the black area. You can view my video on how to do this technique here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlHwvzZIXbs&t=2s Once you have it taped off the black area, reapply the pattern to the teapot and begin transferring the main parts of the design using a small stylus or pencil. You will transfer details as needed. Painting Instructions Sky Brush in the sky with a mix of Deep Midnight Blue and Titanium White, using the #14 Dome brush. Lightly brush some white highlights across the sky in Titanium White, then lightly tap in some clouds using the same brush. Bushes Add the bushes in a mix of Burnt Umber and a little Lamp Black. Tap them in with the #10 filbert brush. Add the highlight in Raw Sienna, with a little Titanium White mixed in.
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Barn Add the large piece of the barn in Deep Burgundy using the #2 round. Shade with a mix of Deep Burgundy and a little Lamp Black. Add some lighter areas in Deep Burgundy mixed with a little Titanium White. Keep your strokes horizontal. Add the stone wall in Desert Sand. Shade in Desert Sand mixed with a little Burnt Umber. Dot in the stones in Burnt Umber. Very lightly dot in a little snow on random rocks in Titanium White. Add the brick part of the barn in Desert Sand and shade with some Burnt Umber. Add the bricks with a mix of Burnt Umber mixed with a little Lamp Black by making quick little dashes. Add the roof to the brick part in Burnt Umber. Add the other two in Lamp Black. Outline the Burnt Umber one in some thinned Lamp Black. Add the snow to all the roofs, by brushing it across the top and quickly brushing it down, with the damp #6 Dynasty 200 brush, using the Titanium White. Pat some of it off with a wet rag before it dries. Using the #2 round, add the windows in Lamp Black and highlight in Titanium White.
Snow and Shadows Add the snow in Titanium White, using the #10 filbert. Add shadows in a mix of Deep Midnight Blue and Titanium White (see photo for placement), using the #6 Dynasty 200. Add a shadow of Deep Burgundy and Titanium White in front of the barn. Add a shadow of Plantation Pine, a little Deep Midnight Blue, and Titanium White, just to the right of the large pine tree. Add a few very light snow drifts throughout the painting in Titanium White. Water Using the #10 filbert, brush back and forth in the water center with a mix of Deep Burgundy and a touch of Titanium White. Add a mix of Deep Midnight Blue, Burnt Umber, and a little Lamp Black to the outer edge, pulling it in towards the center. Fence and Trees Add the fence and trees in Lamp Black, Add the snow by very lightly loading a #2 round in Titanium White, and wiping most of the paint off onto a paper towel. Apply it with very light pressure using fast short strokes. If you end up with a big white spot, wipe more paint off on to the rag or paper towel. 7
Snowman Tap in the snowman using the #6 Dynasty 200 and Titanium White. Shade under the 1st and 2nd layer in a mix of Titanium White and Deep Midnight Blue, by lightly tapping it on. Add the buttons, eyes, and mouth by dotting them in with the small stylus in Lamp Black. Add the nose in a mix of Raw Sienna and a little Deep Burgundy, using the #2 round. Add the hat in Lamp Black. Add some snow to the hat using the #6 Dynasty 200 in Titanium White, by dry brushing it on. Add his arms in some thinned Lamp Black, using the #2 round. Add the snow in Titanium White.
Pine Trees Add a straight up and down line with the #2 round in Lamp Black, for placement of the pine tree. Create the branches using the #10 filbert; tapping on foliage using Plantation Pine mixed with a little Lamp Black. Add the snow in Titanium White in the same manner. Define the trunk in Lamp Black and highlight in Titanium White, using the #2 round. Brush on the Ground (see photo above, behind snowman) Tap in the brush on the ground in a mix of Burnt Umber and a little bit of Lamp Black, using the #6 filbert. Add the snow in Titanium White in the same manner. Brush a little snow in front of the brush as well. Touch up snowman if necessary. Stencil Stencil the snowflakes in Titanium White, using the 1/4” stencil brush. Flecking the Snow and Sealing Protect your work area from spatter. I wear rubber gloves and do this technique outdoors. Spatter on the snow using an old toothbrush and slightly thinned Titanium White. Hold the toothbrush with the bristles facing down and flick the snow all over the teapot with your forefinger. Allow to dry. Working
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in a well-ventilated area, follow manufacturer’s instructions to apply a coat of the spray, satin clear sealer. Pine and Pinecones Cut the pine branches with the wire cutter and strategically place them in the opening of the teapot. You can hot glue them in if you choose. Add the pinecones by hot gluing them on to the branches. If you prefer, add additional embellishment such as wooden berries, lights, tea bags, kitchen items or other holiday treats.
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All I want for Christmas is You Original design by Sandy Kelsey sk51263@aol.com 11
This is how I felt every year until I finally got a puppy at 13. Now that I’m all grown-up (sort of) I’m a firm believer in the potato chip theory! You can’t stop at just one!
Surface x 14” Jumbo Gift Tag Plaque, -from Cupboard Distributing- SKU: 31-L291, https://www.cdwood.com/products/gift-tag-plaque
Supplies: x Usual Acrylic Tools x Sticky Texture Mesh or Burlap Stencil x Hexagon Stencil x Palette Knife x Transfer Paper x Tracing Paper x Small tight capped bottle x Optional Circle Templates 7.25”, 7.50” Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Alizarin Crimson x Asphaltum x Blue Harbor x Blue Haven x Bright Green x Burgundy Wine x Burlap x Buttermilk x Holly Green x Lamp Black x Lavender
x x x x x x x x x x
Lemon Yellow Payne’s Grey Red Alert Sable Brown Sizzling Pink (Neon) Slate Grey Spicy Mustard Titanium White Traditional Burnt Sienna Zinc
Brushes x Small and medium dry brushes x 2 inch Flat x 1/8, ¼ and 1/2-inch angled shader x 10/0 liner x #2 and 4 Round The Background Line up the pattern so the circle is centered and ¾ of an inch from the bottom. Transfer the circle only. Basecoat the outside of the circle with two thin coats of Spicy Mustard (or similar) using your large flat brush. When dry, paint over the Alizarin Crimson (2 coats may necessary). Paint inside the circle with Blue Haven at the top 1/3 and Blue Harbor at the bottom 2/3rds. Brush Blue Haven down into the Blue Harbor to blend. Transfer the remaining pattern (excluding the checker pattern on the bow).
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Black Buffalo Plaid Ribbon: Base coated with Titanium White and when dry, the check pattern is added. The secret to a believable ribbon is keeping the lines straight when the colors change. The pattern is painted as shown using Lamp Black, Zinc and Slate Grey. Refer to the photo for placement. The shading is done with a washy transparent float of Payne’s Grey. Bow Shading See photo for placement. Burlap Ribbon: Base coat with Burlap and generously highlight with dry brushed Buttermilk. Lay the Texture Mesh in the direction of the ribbon loop. Using minimal paint in a dry brush, pounce Sable Brown in the areas indicated. Do not cover the entire area of the loops, just the centers. When dry, float a shade with Sable Brown first, then darken the shades with Asphaltum. Lindsey, the Little Girl: I use this “recipe” to mix a deep flesh paint. 1 teaspoon Traditional Burnt Sienna 1 teaspoon Lavender 1 teaspoon Lemon Yellow (called Mix 1). Mix and save in a tight seal little bottle. Tip: Replace Lemon Yellow with Light Mocha for a rosier skin tone or Spicy Mustard for darker skin tones) Lindsey’s Face: Basecoat the face and hands with Mix 1 including the ears. Bangs will be added later. Lindsey’s Face, Image #2: On your palette paper add a dime size amount of Mix 1 + an equal amount of Buttermilk. Use your palette knife to mix.
Image #2
Image #3
Drybrush face in the areas indicated in example, using this mix. (Mix 2)
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Lindsey’s Face, Image #3 Use your palette knife to separate a dime size puddle of Mix2 and add equal amount of Buttermilk to that, to create Mix #3. Reinforce the dry brushed highlights as shown. Using Mix 1, add a bottom lip line. Lindsey’s Face, Image #4 Paint the inside of the eyes and teeth with Titanium White. Image #4
Image #5
Lindsey’s Face, Image #5 Use Mix3 to paint in the nostrils. Add a soft line with Mix1 around the ball of the nose to separate from nostrils. Thinly outline the mouth with Lamp Black and fill in. Add Lamp Black around the eyes and inside the pupil. Use Traditional Burnt Sienna to add small thin eyebrows and paint a little at the bottom inside of the mouth (over the black) to imply a tongue. Very lightly add tiny dashes of Sable Brown for nostrils. Use Mix3 to add a shine dot to the nose and an outline around the bottom nose ball. Add little commas to the corners of the mouth and along the bottom of the arc of the mouth. Follow the steps 1-4 to create the bright eyes: Step #1 is a Blue Harbor starburst. Step 2 is a Baby Blue starburst that still lets some of the Blue Harbor show through. Step 3 is the Lamp Black Pupil and #4 is the Titanium White eye shine and washy arc from one side to the other.
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Lindsey’s Face, Fingers and Hair: L The neck is created by dry brushing Mix#2 above the shirt neckline (leave a dark line under the chin). The fingers are dry brushed lightly with Mix2. Then lines are drawn in using Buttermilk. The hair is base coated with Traditional Burnt Sienna. Add strands of Alizarin Crimson. Highlights are added as shown in the picture with Sable Brown, then Spicy Mustard. Lightly pencil sketch long and short bangs from across the forehead. Use a liner to pull thin strands down using Traditional Burnt Sienna and Sable Brown. When dry erase the pencil lines. Shade the part in the hair and sections of the ponytails with Asphaltum. VERY lightly dry brush Red Alert to the apples of her cheeks. Add a few Traditional Burt Sienna eyelashes. Her Clothing The blouse is base coated with Burlap. Float Buttermilk highlights in the pleats on the shoulder and the soft point of the collar. Dry brush Buttermilk on the top of the forearm, edge of the cuff (by the hand) and in the sleeve section behind and under the sleeve and chest. Shade with Sable Brown under the collar point, along the strap of her jumper, both sides of the ribbon on the forearm, and to the far right of the cuff under her thumb. The jumper and hair ties are base coated in Holly Green. Highlight the folds and strap on the shoulder with dry brushed Bright Green with soft horizontal strokes. Add a washy thin line up the center of the pleat dry brushing following the direction of the fold. Add a line of Bright Green on the tops of her hair ties. Shade the folds as shown with Payne’s Grey. Shade the green area where the box is in front of her body, on the top and bottom of her sleeve, and under the ribbon across her dress. The Gift Box First base coat with Spicy Mustard. When dry, paint with Burgundy Wine. (including the lid). Step #1: Use a ½ angled shader to paint a wide transparent float of Payne’s Grey on the box flaps and the bottom of the lid (only in the places shown). Step #2: Mix a puddle of Red Alert and Sizzling Pink 1:1. Use a drybrush to stencil hexagons over the entire box and the lid. Step #3: When dry, replace the stencil and drybrush in random highlights on the pattern with a Sizzling Pink. Build up the color with several light layers. 15
Step #4: Re-shade the box flaps and under the tissue paper (refer to photo) using a ¼ angled shader and Payne’s Gray. The tissue paper is painted after the puppy. Step #5: Use Sizzling Pink and a liner brush to add highlights on the box flaps. (shown white on the photo)
Tip: If you are painting under lots of lights like I am – be sure to keep a puddle of water or some extender available to keep your brush moist and your paint fluid. When your painting looks scratchy you need to hydrate! The Puppy – I painted this little dog at lease 4 times, and each time he looked a little different! Keep playing until you have the puppy you want! Tips! Remember to not completely cover up the layer of fur underneath unless instructed and don’t let fur edges end in a straight line Shorten the length of the fur and move down to a smaller size brush for upper layers of fur. Reapply fur strokes until you get the brightness you need to make the puppy look dimensional.
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Step 1: The head is base coated with Zinc and ears with Lamp Black. Step 2: Use the angle edge of a ¼ shader and pull lines of fur in the directions shown. Pull a few pieces past the Zinc edge and into the ears Step 1
Step 2
Step 3: Switch to a 10/00 liner and pull short Burlap fur over the Slate Grey. Under the eyes be sure to c cover all the Slate Grey. Refer to the little fur samples in the picture. Top one has the fur lines side by side. The second has fur lines panted from the inside to outside. The bottom sample has fur painted from the outside working in. Step 3 This is the method I use. Step3
Step 4: Still using the 10/00 liner, use small strokes to add Titanium White and add light fur for eyebrows, in the little spot under the bottom lip, and again under the eyes Step 4
Step 5
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Step 5: Float Zinc around the eyes, around the nose and under the lip. Take Titanium White and pull a few fur lines back over the Zinc, down under the nose into the mouth area, and add a horizontal lip highlight. Take Lamp Black and repaint the shape of the nose and eyes. Take Zinc and add a few curly lines to the ears to imply wavy fur. Float Zinc along the top of the head where the tissue paper lies on the puppy’s head. Front Paws: Paint them using the same method as the fur on the face. The puppy is trying to wiggle out of the box and has one back foot out. Back Foot: That foot has a center of Zinc and Slate Grey fur around the edges. Add some Burlap fur strokes to the far-right side. The toes are based with Face Mix 2, highlighted with Titanium White and shaded with Burgundy Wine. If necessary, pull a few strands of curly Lamp Black fur over the back foot so it looks like it is behind the head. The Nose: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Step 1 – dry brush Slate Grey as shown Step 2 – Use a liner and Lamp Black to paint in Nostrils Step 3 – use a 1/8 angled shader to float black around the nose shape Step 4 – Add soft little Slate Grey commas to highlight the curve of the nostrils. Do a wash of Lamp Black over that if it looks too bright. Take Zinc with a touch of Lamp Black and add fur pointing up on the top of the nose.
Puppy Eyes: Basecoat with Lamp Black Step 1 – leaving a wide black border, add Traditional Burnt Sienna eyeballs. Tip – add a touch of white or light grey to your Sienna for the first coat, then repaint with straight Traditional Burnt Sienna for the best coverage. Step 1
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Step 2 – Add a Lamp Black pupil over the eyeball leaving crescents as shown Step 3 – Using your 10/00 liner paint Titanium White lines between to the side of the Traditional Burnt Sienna. Be sure the black edge shows, if not paint it back in. Add a Titanium White eye shine. Paint faint reflection lights as shown. Step 2
Step 3
The Tissue Paper Painting the tissue will be a big help putting all the elements in order, front to back. Base all four sections with Titanium White. Shade as shown with Blue Harbor. Add a tiny bit of Payne’s Grey to the blue and re-shade the darkest parts. Add lines to show the folds. Use Payne’s Grey to shade underneath all the Tissue Paper, including on top of the right paw. Shade above the tissue where it meets the Puppy’s back paw. Shade the tissue paper where it lies against the box lid.
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Additional Floats Use Payne’s Grey to float around the inside bottom half of the big circle border. Float around the triangle under the gift box. Shade under the Puppy’s back foot and thinly down the right side of the box. Pull some short Burlap pieces of fur from the puppy’s foot over the shading. Float Blue Harbor under the bottom pieces of the bow on top. The Small Ribbon is painted by following the pattern on the picture. The light colors are Titanium White and Slate Grey. The dark colors are Lamp Black and Zinc. When dry, float Payne’s Grey along the bottom of the ribbon between the girl’s forearm and the gift box, on the ribbon where it twists on the left side below the gift box lid, where the thin part of the ribbon touches the top of the lid, and underneath the ribbon where it lies on top of the lid. Clean up edges by painting the thick border around the circle with Lamp Black. Chipped Edge The edges of the plaque have a chipped edge, a technique created by Chris Haughey. To achieve this look, roll a #4 round, loaded with Lamp Black (brush handle facing in and at a 90-degree angle to the edge) around the edge of the surface moving towards you. Use a float of Red Alert/Sizzling Pink 1:1 against the edge of the black on the red side. A demonstration video of the technique can be seen at: https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=545676572990364&ref=watch_permalink
Lettering Use an inky mixture of Lamp Black to paint over your traced letters. I turn the surface around as needed so that I am pulling the strokes toward me. I also keep my liner brush at a 90 degree angle to the surface and hold the brush almost halfway up the handle. Use Blue Haven to touch up any oops. Protect your work by varnishing with the finish of your choice.
I hope you get all YOU want for Christmas!
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Christmas Centerpiece Pillow Cover Original Design by Sunny Tonini sunny@artisanarie.com
Every Christmas decor needs a centerpiece, and it’s usually on the dinner table. I created this design so that the centerpiece can go anywhere in your home. You can place it in any room: it will look great as a holiday decor on your bed, chair, or sofa; plus, it will add a pop of color to a neutral room. It will make a great holiday accent with a bit of sparkle, wherever you place it! 24
Surface: 12”x 20” Natural Canvas Pillow Cover - available at Hobby Lobby Project Supplies: Standard Acrylic Painting Tools Tracing Paper Transfer or Graphite Paper Fabric Pen (Disappearing/Washable Ink) Ball Stylus 8” x 20” Piece of Cardboard Masking Tape Tim Holtz Snowflakes Layering Stencil THS050 from Cupboard Distributing Paints: DecoArt SoSoft Fabric Acrylics Bright Avocado Bright Coral Brown Christmas Green Golden Brown Green Apple Lamp Black Olive Green Red Pepper Santa Red White
SoSoft Metallics Amethyst Aquamarine Copper Gold Obsidian Pearl Raspberry Quartz Sapphire SoSoft Fabric Glitters Clear Ice Red Twinkle
Brushes: Royal & Langnickel: Soft Grip Short Shader SG155 #4 Stencil Brush 1113 – 1/4" Princeton: Princeton Select Artiste Chisel Blender #2 Silver (Art Sherpa): Round 4100S #1 Preparation: Before painting on a fabric item, prewash it on cold water with laundry detergent only – this is to remove all starch, sizing, marks or spots from the fabric. Do not use any fabric softener or dryer sheets. This will also pre-shrink the fabric, so plan accordingly taking this into account if you’re cutting fabric for your project. Dry the fabric completely and iron it smooth to get an even surface. Find the pillow cover’s center and mark it with the fabric pen. Insert the cardboard into the pillow cover. Make sure that the piece of cardboard fits through the pillow cover’s opening – you will need to move it around as you paint to make sure that it is placed underneath the area being painted to keep the paint from seeping through. Position your fabric, centering the area to be painted, and smooth it out with your hands. Remove the fabric pen’s mark. 25
Transfer the design onto tracing paper. Position it on the canvas and secure the edges with masking tape. Carefully place the transfer/graphite paper underneath the design and trace it with a stylus. Try not to move the transfer paper around too much to avoid smudges on the canvas. You are now ready to paint! Sunny’s Wet on Wet Technique: My wet on wet technique consists of base coating, shading and sometimes highlighting an area or element while the paint is still wet. First you put down the base coat, then immediately start adding layers of shading colors and blending them in by lightly scrubbing the fabric with the brush upright. There is an “open time” while the paint is wet that you can work on the colors until you get the desired effect. After the paint is dry to the touch, you can still shade and highlight, but then it becomes a dry rubbing technique, where you work with much smaller amounts of paint in the brush to avoid lifting the previous color layers. I mostly use wet on wet as the main technique, and dry brushing as a touch up or to add finishing touches and highlights that I want to stand out, since these don’t get absorbed by the fabric as much as the base layers. Painting Tips: x If you don’t have the brushes used here, use any brush that is firm and can withstand rubbing onto the canvas. x Whenever you rinse your brush, make sure you dry it well to remove excess water! x Always load the brush with small amounts of paint (just enough to cover and fill the canvas’ fibers) and build up layer by layer. Too much paint can saturate the fabric. x It’s best to work in sections so the paint doesn’t dry while you work. Painting Instructions Note: These steps are done using a wet on wet technique. Holly Leaves: Using the #4 short shader, basecoat the leaf where you want your lighter values with a mix of Bright Avocado + Green Apple (1:1) and fill in the rest with Bright Avocado. With the same brush, shade the dark areas with Christmas Green; deepen the shade with a mix of Christmas Green + a tiny bit of Lamp Black. Follow the leaf’s shape to create form and the center vein. Rinse and dry the brush, then apply Green Apple to the lighter areas, being careful not to get too close to the dark areas.
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Gift Package (Metallic Paints): Using the #4 short shader, basecoat the package with Aquamarine, shade with Sapphire and highlight with Pearl. Use the #1 round to paint the bow with Gold and shade with Copper. Ornaments (Metallic Paints): Using the #stencil brush, apply a highlight area with Pearl and work the paint until the edges fade off. With the same brush, apply the next color and continue painting around the highlight until the area is filled in, making sure to blend well around the highlight in circular movements but without completely covering the highlight. You may want to go back with a bit of Pearl and add a little more intensity to the highlight. As you get closer to the outer edge, apply the paint with the #4 short shader for a nice, rounded finish. Apply the shade to the area opposite the highlight with the stencil brush, blending well. Gold Ornament: Start with Pearl, fill in with Gold, shade with Copper. Light Purple Ornament: Start with Pearl, fill in with Raspberry Quartz, shade with Obsidian. Dark Purple Ornament: Start with Pearl, fill in with Amethyst, shade with Obsidian.
Pinecone: With the stencil brush, apply Golden Brown to the pine cone’s center and fill in the rest with Brown (use the #4 short shader close to the edges). Shade with Brown mixed with a tiny bit of Lamp Black. Use the #4 short shader and Golden Brown + a tiny bit of White to create the scales. While the paint is wet, use the #2 chisel blender and Brown to deepen the shades between each scale. Use the #4 short shader to highlight each scale with White.
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Poinsettia: Leaves: Using the #4 short shader, basecoat the leaf where you want your lighter values with Avocado Green and fill in the rest with Christmas Green. With the same brush, shade the dark areas with Santa Red, following the leaf’s shape to create form and the center vein. Rinse and dry the brush, load it with Bright Avocado and with short movements following the leaf’s shape, pull some highlights from the center vein out, and from the bottom edge in, being careful not to get too close to the dark areas.
Petals and Center: Please Note: All the poinsettias’ petals are painted following the same steps, which are very similar to their own leaves. Although the painting steps are identical for each petal, it’s best to work in small groups (2 or 3 at a time) while the paint is wet. If you’re a fast painter, you can work on a larger group at a time, keeping in mind that the paint has to be wet while you work on them. Always start from the bottom layer of petals and work your way towards the ones on top. Using the #4 short shader, basecoat the petal where you want your lighter values with Red Pepper and fill in the rest with Santa Red. With the same brush, shade the dark areas with a mix of Santa Red + Olive Green (1:1). Prepare a small amount of Bright Coral mixed with White (3:1). Rinse and dry the brush, load it with this color mix and with short movements following the petal’s shape, pull some highlights from the top edge in, and from the center vein out, being careful not to get too close to the dark areas.
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Use the #2 chisel blender and Christmas Green mixed with a tiny bit of Lamp Black to fill in the gaps between each petal. With the same brush, basecoat the center flowers with Christmas Green and let dry. Dip the end of your brush (or use the tip of round brush) into Bright Avocado and add a second, smaller dot to each flower. Let dry, and then a tiny bit of Red Pepper to each dot with the #1 round. Holly Berries: Using the #4 short shader, basecoat the berries with Red Pepper and shade with Santa Red followed by the mix of Santa Red + Olive Green (1:1). Add a tiny dot with the #1 round and Lamp Black. Pine Boughs: Use the #2 chisel blender and Brown to paint the center branch. Use the same brush on its chisel edge and stroke pine needles with Christmas Green mixed with a tiny bit of Lamp Black. Continue stroking and layering the pine needles with Christmas Green, Olive Green and finally a few lighter needles with Bright Avocado. Stenciling the Snowflakes: Load the 1/4” stencil brush with a small amount of Gold Metallic, remove the excess on a paper towel, then pounce the brush on any snowflake. Let it dry for a couple of minutes before carefully moving the stencil to re-position it and repeating the process until you’re happy with the results. Details and Finishing Touches: Before adding the finishing touches, make sure the paint is dry to the touch. Use small amounts of paint. Add Glitter to the Holly Berries and Ornaments: Using the #4 short shader and small amounts of paint, apply Red Twinkle Glitter to the berries. Rinse and dry the brush well, then apply Clear Ice Glitter to the highlight area of each ornament. Use the #1 round and Green Apple to outline each holly leaf. As the paint dries and is absorbed by the fabric, you may see areas that need additional shading or highlighting. Your painting is ready! Remove the cardboard insert and let it dry for 72 hours. I would love to share my other hand painted designs with you! Please visit my Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/Artisanarie 29
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Original Design by Harpa Mikac Harpabergs@outlook.com
As a native of a Nordic country, the Yule inspires me to create festive decorations throughout the year. This project is designed to make the artist feel the Christmas spirit at any time of year and experience the joys of painting in acrylics.
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Surface › Master-Touch canvas 12” x 24” Supplies: › Usual Acrylic Tools › Small snowflake stencil Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics › Antique Gold › Cadmium Yellow › Dark Chocolate › Gray Sky › Gray Storm › Honey Brown › Lamp Black › Ocean Blue
› › › › › › ›
Primary Blue Primary Red Deep Blush (formerly Shading Flesh) Soft Black Warm Beige Warm White Whispering Turquoise
Mediums: DecoArt › Star Lite Varnish › Drying Time Extender Brushes › Deerfoot #1/2” › Liner #0, #3 and 10/0 liner › Rake Brushes, #3/4” and ¼” › Master’s Touch, ¾” Angular Shader, and 3/8” Angle › Stencil Brush Preparation Basecoat the canvas with Primary Blue. While still wet, brush some streaks of Ocean Blue with as many or as few as you like. Allow paint to dry and then transfer pattern. Painting Instructions Face Basecoat the face with Warm Beige. I used the 3/4” Master Touch Angular Shader and gave it 3 coats. Let dry between coats. A blow dryer can be used to speed up the process. When dry, use tracing paper to trace the facial features. Using long liner and shading flesh, outline around the eyes, nose, and wrinkles.
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Eyes Paint the inside of the eyes white and the iris Ocean Blue. Using Soft Black, paint the pupil. Also with Soft Black, float a thin line on top of the eye, over the pupil, and into the corner of the eye. Highlight the bottom of the iris with Whispering Turquoise. Using Angular Shader and Deep Blush, float around the face and eyes (see picture). Dry brush in the same area with same color and highlight with white. Drybrush a touch of Primary Red on the cheeks. Following the contours of the brows, wisp in the eyebrows with inky Storm Grey. Stroke in hairs with Warm White, allowing some of the grey to peek through. Hat Basecoat with Primary Red. Highlight with Deep Blush and shade with Soft Black.
Tassel Wisp in tassel with Soft Black, then Antique Gold. When dry, highlight with Cadmium Yellow. Shade the top of tassel with Dark Chocolate.
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Fur Lightly brush extender on fur area, paint light coat of Warm White over extender using deerfoot brush. Stipple fur with Warm White. While still wet, shade with Gray Storm. Let dry. Dry brush more shading and highlighting until you are satisfied.
Beard Using rake brush, wisp in beard with Gray Storm, then Gray Sky. Highlight with Warm White.
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Finishing To finish, stencil snowflakes here and there until you are happy. Some may like light snow and others may prefer blizzard conditions. Drybrush with a big stencil brush around the edges and here and there according to your taste. Spatter snow with an old toothbrush if you want. I added snowflakes using a stencil that I purchased on Amazon.
A word of encouragement from Harpa: This project may seem daunting at first, but as with any big undertaking, do it slowly and a step at a time. Then it won’t seem like a big project. If you focus on what you can do instead of what you can’t, you’ll end up with a beautiful painting that is sure to be a conversation piece with your family and friends gathered around your Christmas tree.
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©2020 Harpa Mikac
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Enlarge 252%
By Paola Bassan paola.bassan@icloud.com
Two good friends, gathering snowflakes and sharing special joy as they welcome the best month of the year!
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Surface * Wooden plaque, approx. size 10” x 7” * 2 similar surfaces are avaialble from Cupboard Distributing (shown below)
SKU: 31-L155
SKU: 31-L257
Project Supplies * Usual Acrylic Tools * Thick Craft Glue * White Graphite * Fine Grit Sandpaper * Stencil #PP-102 Winter Wonderland by Plum Purdy * Stencil #203 Christmas Borders by Plum Purdy * Stencil BCS302 Holiday Flourishes Background by Laurie Speltz’s * Stencil BCS222 Candy by Laurie Speltz’s * Rhinestones 1/4” diameter
Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics * Berry Cobbler * Black Green * Black Plum * Burnt Sienna * Burnt Umber * Buttermilk * Calico red * Camel * Glamour Dust Ice Crystal * Hauser Light Green * Honey Brown * Hot Shots Fiery Red
* * * * * * * * * * * *
Lamp Black Light Buttermilk Margarita Mustard Seed Plantation Pine Raw Sienna Santa Red Splendid Gold Sugared Peach Titanium Snow White Vintage Pink Watermelon Slice
Mediums:DecoAt * Multi Purpose Sealer * DecoArt Matte Spray Sealer or Brush on Varnish of Choice
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Brushes: Loew Cornell * ½” Wash, Series 7550 * #4 and #1 Round, Series 7000 * Maxine’s ½” Mop, Series 270 * liner #10/0 series 7350 Princeton Brushes * ¼” Deerfoot Stippler, Series 3750 JoSonja Sure Touch Brushes * Oval drybrush #6,#8 series 2010 Preparation: If using a wood surface, sand lightly with a fine grit sandpaper. Remove all dust with a tack cloth. Seal the wood with DecoArt All Purpose Sealer and let dry. Sand again with very fine sandpaper to knock down any of the raised grain. If using an MDF surface, do NOT sand; just apply sealer to all sides and allow to dry completely.
Painting Instructions:
Background Basecoat the surface with two coats of Lamp Black and let dry. Use White graphite to transfer only the main pattern outlines. Basecoat as follows: Reindeer: Body with Honey Brown, nose and inner ears with Vintage Pink. Candy Cane : Use Stencil BCS222 Basecoat with Titanium Snow White, stripes Santa Red, fine lines with Hauser Light Green. Santa: Jacket and hat Santa Red, face Sugared Peach, nose Vintage Pink, beard and mustache are Buttermilk. Using the stencil BCS302, and Light Buttermilk, stencil the flourishes on the mustache and beard. (The fur hatband will be painted later) Dangle Letters JOY: J basecoat with Hauser Light Green, O with Splendid Gold, and Y with Santa Red.
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Shading & Highlights Reindeer Ears: Shade the inside of the ears with Berry Cobbler, reinforce with Black Plum. Highlight the top with Light Buttermilk. Shade the part near the head with Burnt Umber then drybrush highlight the top with Camel. Nose: Shade the left side of the nose with Berry Cobbler then reinforce slightly with Black Plum. Highlight the right part with Light Buttermilk then paint a small light spot with Titanium Snow White. Head: Shade the sides and above the muzzle first with Burnt Sienna then slightly reinforce with Burnt Umber. Paint a light float with Berry Cobbler on the sides to create the cheeks. Drybrush highlight the central part (upwards) with Camel. Eyes, Eyebrows: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Dots inside the eyes and on the cheeks with Titanium Snow White. Muzzle: Shade the bottom with Burnt Sienna, drybrush highlight the top with Camel. Body: Shade under the muzzle and the side close to the Santa's body first with Burnt Sienna then lightly reinforce with Burnt Umber.
Holly on Reindeer’s Head: Use the stencil #203 Christmas Borders by Plum Purdy Basecoat the leaves with Hauser Light Green, shade the inside (towards the berries) with Plantation Pine, and highlight the outside with Margarita. Paint the veins of the leaves with the 10/0 liner and Plantation Pine. Basecoat the Berries Basecoat with Calico Red, then paint a small dot inside to give a touch of light with Hot Shots Fiery Red. Candy Cane Red Stripes are shaded with Black Plum and highlighted with Hot Shots Fiery Red. White Stripes are shaded with Honey Brown.
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With the 10/0 liner and Titanium Snow White, paint a line along the candy cane to create the bright highlight.
JOY J: paint diagonal lines with Calico Red, shade the right side with Plantation Pine and highlight the left side with Margarita. Y: paint small dots with Hauser Light Green, shade the right side with Black Plum and highlight the left side with Hot Shots Fiery Red. Paint the "holes" at the top and bottom of each letter with Lamp Black and the rope with Light Buttermilk. Santa Face: Shade beneath the hat band with Honey Brown. Paint the cheeks with a wide float of very water-colored (transparent) Berry Cobbler. Eyes, eyebrows and dots on the cheeks are Titanium Snow White. Shade slightly under the eyebrows and around the eyes with Honey Brown. Dot inside the eyes with Lamp Black.
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Nose: Shade the left side of the nose with Berry Cobbler then reinforce slightly with Black Plum. Highlight the right part with Light Buttermilk; brighten with Titanium Snow White and accent with a comma stroke. Mustache: Shade under the nose and the lower part of the mustache first with Honey Brown, slightly reinforced with Raw Sienna. Just under the nose, on the left side, paint another small float with Burnt Umber. Highlight the top of the mustache with Titanium Snow White. Beard: Shade the whole outline first with Honey Brown, then reinforced with Raw Sienna. Reinforce the shade only under the mustache with another float and Burnt Umber. Drybrush highlight the central part with Titanium Snow White. (Once the shadows on the mustache and beard are finished, if the decoration is not very visible, you can go over it again with watercolor Light Buttermilk and a round brush #1) Mouth: Inside with Lamp Black, lips with Vintage Pink. Shade the sides of the lips with Berry Cobbler. In the central part, paint a small light point with Titanium Snow White. Hat: Shade all folds with Black Plum. Paint another shadow near the shoulder to divide the hat from the body. Drybrush highlight all the central parts (between one fold and the other) a with Hot Shot Fiery Red. Body: Shade under the mustache and sides near the beard with Black Plum. Drybrush highlight in the central part of the arms with Hot Shot Fiery Red. Hat Fur and Pom Pom: These areas are painted in three steps using the ¼” Deerfoot Stippler. Step 1 – Using Camel, tap color onto the entire fur band and Pom Pom. Step 2 – With Buttermilk, tap color again on the entire fur band and pompom, but be sure to allow some of the first color (Camel) to show. Step 3 – Using Titanium Snow White, tap only in the central part to give a touch of light. Always try to "tap" with the brush lightly, so as not to create a spot but a furry, soft effect !! h Pom P Shade the right and left sides of the fur band and the lower side of the with Raw Sienna, then lightly reinforced with Burnt Umber.
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Let it dry then if you like, load the deerfoot with Glamour Dust Ice Crystal and tap again onto the fur band and the pom pom. (I always use the Deerfoot Stippler with Glamor Dust Ice Crystal.)
Transfer the poinsettia, leaves and twigs with graphite paper. Poinsettia Base of the petals with Calico Red. Shade first with Berry Cobbler then reinforce the inside of each petal with Black Plum. Drybrush highlight the central parts of each petal with Hot Shot Fiery Red. Paint the veins with the liner brush 10/0 and very transparent Black Plum. Dots in the center with Mustard Seed. Leaves Base the leaves with Hauser Light Green. Shade the bottom of each leaf with Plantation Pine. Highlight the outside with Margarita. Paint the veins with Plantation Pine thinned with water. Twigs Paint the twigs with Burnt Umber and a touch of Camel, using the 10/0 liner brush. This is my technique for creating irregular twigs with wide and narrow sections: Load the liner brush in slightly diluted color, then following the drawing, begin painting by applying downward pressure on the brush in areas you want wide and raising it, to use more of the tip, in areas that you want thin).
Pine Needles and Berries The needles are painted with the liner 10/0 in three steps. The first with Hauser Light Green, then with Black Green and the last (to give touches of light) with Margarita. Berries are Watermelon Slice. The snowflakes are with Titanium Snow White. (I used stencil # 203 Christmas Borders by Plum Purdy)
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Accents & Details Paint the snowflakes on the background using Titanium Snow White and the Winter Wonderland stencil #PP-102 by Plum Purdy. To add some touches of light, glue a ¼” rhinestone in the center of each snowflake. With an old toothbrush loaded in thinned, Titanium Snow White, spatter the background!! Finishing Seal the project with several light coats of DecoArt Matte Spray Sealer. You can also finish your project with a brush on matte varnish, whichever you prefer. A word of encouragement… The first time I used the liner brush ... I was paralyzed! One day, while I was using it, my mom asked me something and while I replied, I continued to paint without thinking ... and by magic the branches had come to me beautiful ... this is the my secret when I use the liner brush ... I don't think and let the magic in the brush do all the work. Thanks for painting with me j Happy Painting Paola
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Original Design by Linda Hollander paintingfool@live.com Being good is so overrated! This sexy sign will let your Secret Santa know what’s on your mind after the tree is trimmed! Metallic and glitter paints add sparkle and shimmer to this glammy holiday sign.
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Surfaces: www.bearwithusinc.com Medium Scroll Top Plaque #2647 High Heel Ornament Cutout #BEV08 Project Supplies: 6- 6mm silver toned jump rings (jewelry findings) 2 pair needle nose pliers Drill and small bit Sandpaper Tracing paper Graphite paper ¼” masking tape 2 paint cubbies to store paint mixes Pencil Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Baby Pink Deep Midnight Blue Foliage Green Mistletoe Razzle Berry Snow Titanium White
DecoArt Dazzling Metallics Shimmering Silver Mediums: DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer Americana Dura-Clear Soft Touch Varnish
DecoArt Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint Celebration Pink Limelight: Brushes: Mop brush Stiff brush for spattering Royal Aqualon Brushes: Shader Series R2150 #, 4, 12 Liner Series R2250 10/0, 1 Wash Series R2700 1” Angular Series 2160: ¼”, ½” Notes: Use appropriately sized brushes unless otherwise noted. For sheer floats load a small amount of paint on an angle brush. Walk the color out, blending on the palette until it is transparent. Use a mop brush to soften floats. Be sure to paint the edges of the sign and ornaments as you paint each section. To drybrush highlights: Load a dry brush with a moderate amount of paint then offload excess onto a paper towel. Lightly skim the brush over the surface to highlight.
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Preparation Instructions Drill two small holes at the bottom of the frame to accommodate the shoes ornaments. Use the photo as a guide for placement. You can space the shoes further apart if you choose. (You may need to use the drill bit to ream the holes in the ornaments to make them large enough for the jump rings.) Apply Multi-Purpose Sealer to all surfaces. Let dry then sand lightly to smooth. Remove dust. Basecoat all the surfaces with Snow Titanium White. While basecoat is drying, make a tracing of the shoe pattern. Painting Instructions: Green Background Apply tape to the sides and bottom edges of the sign. Mix Foliage Green + Snow Titanium White (2:1) in a paint cubby. Use this mix to base the green area until opaque. Use sheer Mistletoe to float shading around the edges. Remove tape. Apply a thin coat of Multi-Purpose Sealer to protect your background. Mix Razzle Berry + Baby Pink (1:1) and store in a cubby. Transfer the lettering. Use Razzle Berry to paint lettering. Use the pink mix to highlight the lettering. Use the pink mix and the #4 shader to paint checks along the border of the sign. Float sheer Deep Midnight Blue along the inside edge of the border. Use the #1 round and Snow Titanium White to drybrush the highlight.
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Thin Snow Titanium White to the consistency of heavy cream. Load the stiff brush with the mixture then offload the excess onto scrap. Lightly spatter snow on the green areas. Ribbons: Use the pattern as a guide to lightly pencil in lines to separate the loops of the ribbons. Use the pink mix to base the solid ribbons and peppermint stipes. Use Razzle Berry to float shading on the solid ribbons and on the outer edges of each peppermint stripe. Use super sheer Deep Midnight Blue to float shading on the peppermint ribbons and to deepen shading as needed on the solid ribbons. Use Snow Titanium White to float highlights on the solid ribbons and to drybrush a highlight down the center of the peppermint ribbons. High Heels: Decide whether you want the shoes to face each other or face the same direction. Transfer the patterns lightly or pencil in lines using the pattern as a guide. Base the inner sole and platform area with Shimmering Silver. Use smooth strokes to get an even coat. Use sheer Deep Midnight Blue to float shading. Use the green mix to base the ankle strap and vamp. Use Mistletoe to float shading. Deepen shading on the vamp with sheer Deep Midnight Blue. Base pink areas with the pink mix. Use Razzle Berry to float shading. Use sheer Deep Midnight Blue to deepen shading. Use Snow Titanium White to float a highlight along the top edge of the side of the shoe. Paint the peppermint stripes as you did for the ribbons. Use Shimmering Silver to paint the buckle. Outline and shade with Deep Midnight Blue. Finishing: Apply varnish to all areas. Apply the Limelight, DecoArt Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint to the vamp of the shoe. Apply Celebration Pink, Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter Paint to the side of the shoe and to the solid pink ribbons. To open and close jump rings: Use both pairs of pliers to open the jump rings. Position the ring(You may need to use the drill bit to ream the holes in the ornaments to make them larger.) with the cut at 12:00. Position the pliers at 9:00 and 3:00. Pull one pair of pliers towards you and the other away from you. To close the ring or link, reverse the process.
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To attach high heels: Open two jump rings. Insert one into the hole in the sign and the other into the ornament. Use a closed ring to connect the two open rings. Close the open rings. Repeat for the other ornament. Contact: Linda Hollander at paintingfool@live.com
Line Art is at 100%
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Line Art is at 100%
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Original Design by Lorraine Morison cmorison@ans.com.au Most people love Christmas with family and friends calling in the holiday with much celebrating and festive cheer. This platter, when protected by a clear glass top plate, would certainly become a useful candy or cookie plate. If you prefer, simply display it along with other decorations of the holiday season. I hope you enjoy painting this festive ribbon platter piece as much as I did.
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Surface: MDF octagonal plate 242mm (9½ in) wide, with a coved, dished centre Project Supplies: Usual Acrylic Tools Wet Palette Palette Knife Fine Grit Sandpaper Tracing Paper White Transfer Paper Stylus Ruler Compass Chalk Pencil Stencils by Laurie Speltz http://www.lauriespeltz.com/store/WsDefault.asp?Cat=StencilsandBrushes BCS312 Falling stars BCS139 Snowflakes Optional Merry Christmas Stencil or Stamp Mediums by DecoArt: Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer Americana Drying Time Extender (formerly Brush ‘n’ Blend) Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics: Admiral Blue True Blue Moody Blue Blue Violet Bright Blue Turquoise Blue Dove Grey Holly Green Hauser Dark Green Green Tree Avocado Dip DecoArt Dazzling Metallics: Splendid Gold Brushes: Basecoating brush or roller Raphael Round brush No.4 Raphael Fine Liner 8413 No 2 Angle Shader ¼, ოɚɟ Scruffy Brush Stencil brushes
Forest Green Black Green Light Avocado Uniform Blue Aloe Snow White Deep Midnight Blue Spicy Mustard Berry Red Black Plum Pumpkin Warm White
Americana Extreme Sheen: 24k Gold
Preparation: Basecoat the piece with two coats of Admiral Blue mixed with equal amounts of MultiPurpose Sealer, sanding between coats. When dry, stipple the plate with True Blue, Moody Blue, Blue Violet, Bright Blue, and Turquoise Blue.
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Mark a line around the platter 3 mm (Ɨ in) from the edge and 3mm (Ɨ in) wide. Paint it first with Dove Grey then over paint it with 24K Gold. Trace the design from the pattern sheet onto tracing paper and then transfer it to the piece using the transfer paper and stylus. Mark a circle around the coved part of the platter 3mm (Ɨ in) wide. Paint it first with Dove Grey then over paint it with 24K Gold. All blending throughout the piece is done with Drying Time Extender (formerly Brush ‘n’ Blend). Holly: Basecoat with Holly Green. Shade around the base and down the centre with Hauser Dark Green. Highlight the tips with Green Tree. Tints are Avocado Dip.
Poinsettia Leaves: Basecoat with Forest Green. Shade the base of the leaves and the centre vein with Black Green. Highlight the tips with Light Avocado.
Poinsettia: Make a mix in a small container of Uniform Blue, Aloe and Snow White 1:1:1. Paint each petal with the blue mix. Divide the petals and shade with Deep Midnight Blue. Highlight with Snow White. Centre is a blob of Light Avocado and, when dry, place dots over the centre with Spicy Mustard.
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Berries: Base with Dove Grey. The main colour of Berry Red is then painted. Shade with Black Plum. Highlight with Pumpkin. Ribbon: Basecoat with the Blue mix. Shading is painted with Deep Midnight Blue. Highlight is a flip float of Snow White. Splendid Gold is used to outline the bow and ribbon.
Lettering: Basecoat with Dove Grey. Overpaint with Splendid Gold. Second coat is 24K Gold. Lace: Outline the entire design with Warm White. Step 1. Horizontal lines are painted in this section and paint a line down the middle. Complete with dots, as shown on the step sheet. Step 2. Wash in the top of this section with washy Warm White. When dry, stencil in the stars with Snow White. Step 3. Under the arches, stencil in a snowflake with Snow White. Step 4. Divide this section with vertical lines and complete with dots down each line, as shown. Step 5. Comma Strokes are placed all around the design, as shown.
Finishing: Leave the piece to dry overnight and then protect with a spray varnish.
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Original Design by Anita Campanella anita.campanella@libero.it
It’s time to try and new surface and presentation! Use an ordinary embroidery hoop and a scrap of muslin to create this happy hearted Elfi Couple. Embellish with snowflakes or whatever delights you!
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Surface: | Embroidery Hoop 6” Supplies: | Usual Acrylic Tools | Optional: Painter’s Tape | 12” Square of muslin like fabric | Tracing paper, Black graphite paper, Ball Stylus | Paper Palette | Optional Snowflakes or other embellishments Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics | | | | | | |
Antique Rose Avocado Country Red Dark Chocolate Green Lagoon Hauser Medium Green Heritage Brick
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Honey Brown Leaf Green. Light Buttermilk Light French Blue Marigold Soft Black
Mediums: | DecoArt Fabric Painting Medium DAS10 Brushes: Dynasty | Mezzaluna, size small | Dry Brush series 200, size 6 | Black Gold Liner 206 MSC, size 20/0” | Black Gold Angle 206 A, size 1/2 “, 1/4” | Black Gold Round 206 R, size 4
Brushes: Scharff | Moon Mop 685, size 1/2 “, 3/4 “ | Mop 670, size 1/2 “ , 3/4 “ Brushes: Princeton Select | Lunar Blender, size 1/8 “
Preparation: Wash fabric with water and a mild detergent. Allow to dry well, iron and place in the frame. In a small glass jar, with an airtight lid, mix Water and DecoArt Fabric Painting Medium 1: 2. I always moisten the area with this mix before floating shadows and highlights. This technique helps to spread the color well, so as to obtain very light shades. The color penetrates well into the fibers of the fabric, the result is amazing. It is not necessary to add the Medium for fabric to the colors, except when explicitly indicated. Things to remember: Unless instructed otherwise, the shadows and lights are all performed with the Floating technique. For Floating I use the Angular Brushes of different sizes. I select the brush according to the size of the area. If you prefer, you can use Flat Brushes.
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It is important to let the colors dry before applying additional layers. If not, there is a possibility that the previous color will lift and create spots. Painting Instructions: Refer to step photos as you paint Trace the design onto tracing paper. Position the tracing to the surface and secure with painter’s tape. Lay the black graphite beneath the tracing paper carefully on the fabric (so you don’t make smudge marks) and transfer the design using the ball stylus. Faces: Moisten the entire face area with the previously prepared mix of water and Medium. Be careful not to go beyond the perimeter line of the design, otherwise once the color is placed, it will tend to go beyond the drawn lines. The shadows along the entire perimeter of the face and at the base of the ears are Raw Sienna. Reinforce with a brush mix of Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate in the most shaded areas. Green Elf’s Clothing: Image 1 Moisten the entire area of the hat and the Elf's Jacket with the mix. The shadows along both sides of the hat and along the parting crease located at the base are Hauser Medium Green. The shadows on the jacket are in the same color: close to the collar, along the buttoning, along the extreme right / left sides of the jacket, along the extreme sides of the sleeves and on the sleeve close to the cuff. Reinforce with the same color if necessary. Image 1
Image 2
Lady Elf: Image 2 Moisten with the mix, the collar and cuff area of the Elf on the right and follow with the Country Red for the shadows. Always moisten the entire area of the dress and hat with the mix, of the Elf on the left and follow with the shadows with Heritage Brick. Reinforce with the same color in the darkest areas. The shadows along the far left / right sides on the fur of the hat are with the Dirty Brush of Aqua and Heritage Brick. With the Round Brush and Heritage Brick are the earrings.
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Jingle Bells: Just moisten the area of the Jingle bells with the mix of water and Medium and fill with a Round Brush and Marigold. When dry, the shadows on the bells are Dark Chocolate. Green Elf: Image 2 With a brush mix of Hauser Medium Green and Soft Black, reinforce the shadows on the jacket close to the collar, close to the candy cane, close to the cuff and jingle bells. Reinforce the shade also along the buttoning line of the jacket. Same on his hat where needed. Candy Cane: Dip your liner brush into the mix of water and medium and then load with Heritage Brick and draw the lines on the candy cane. Green Jacket Details: With the Liner Brush and Raw Sienna draw the pins on the jacket. Still with the Liner Brush and Marigold, draw the Jingle bells along the collar. When all the Jingle bells are perfectly dry, bring back the details with the Liner Brush and Soft Black . The wrinkles on the jacket are with the Angular Brush positioned in cut and a brush mix of Hauser Medium Green and Soft Black. Lady Elf Clothing Details: The shadows on the Elf's collar on the right, close to the face and close to each single Jingle bells are with a brush mix of Country Red and Soft Black. With the same brush mix is the shadow on the cuff close to the glove.
Image 3
Reinforce the shadows where needed with a brush mix of Heritage Brick and Soft Black on the left of her hat and dress. Candy Cane: The shadows on the candy cane are with Soft Black. (The candy cane was not treated with the mix of water and Medium. In this case, I first made sure that the lines with Heritage Brick dried perfectly and then moistened the area with just a little water. I loaded the Brush in tip first with the mix of water and Medium and then with a little Soft Black. I worked the color on the Palette and then I followed with the shadows).
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Green Elf: Slightly moisten the glove area, and with a Liner Brush draw the diamonds with a Brush mix of Hauser Medium Green and Light French Blue. Lady Elf: Image 3 above Moisten the area of the Elf's shirt on the left and follow with the shadows with Soft Black along its entire perimeter. Stay very light with this color. Moisten the area of the collar and gloves, create the shadows with Hauser Medium Green. Highlight Details: Allow to dry thoroughly and once dry if necessary, perform a Dry Brush with Light Buttermilk: in the center of both faces and ears, in the center of both hats, in the center of the shirt of both, in the center of the dress for her, along the center of the collars of both and the center of the gloves just for her. Let this all dry well. For the highlighting details, I used the Princeton Brush for the ears, the Mezzaluna Brush for the collars and the Dry Brush # 6 for the rest. The polka dots on her shirt are with a Ball Stylus and Heritage Brick. Contour the faces with the Liner Brush and Dark Chocolate. The details on the earrings are with the Brush Liner and Light Buttermilk. The eyes for both are always with the liner and Soft Black. The light point is a dip dot of Light Buttermilk. Her nose is Heritage Brick. The cheeks are for both a Dry Brush with Antique Rose. The hearts on her cheeks are Country Red. The mouth line is with the Brush Liner and Heritage Brick. His nose is Avocado. The mouth is with the Liner Brush and Dark
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Chocolate. Let dry and follow up with the details on the nose with the Liner and Soft Black for both. The pins on the jacket are outlined in the same way. The writing is with the Brush Liner and Soft Black. The Italian flag is Leaf Green, Light Buttermilk and Country Red. I loaded the Brush first in the mix with water and Medium and then in the color. Image 4 above, right: Moisten the entire background with the mix of water and Fabric Medium. The shadows are with a mix of Brush and Green Lagoon plus Light French Blue. Now, embellish to your liking. Snowflakes, glitter, ribbons… create smiles! I hope you have enjoyed painting “with” me! Happy painting to you all!
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* Holiday Hearts * Original Design by Jane Allen Inspired by o Shara Reiner o with permission.
I love the happy, non-traditional colors of these ornaments. They would look beautiful on a Christmas tree, but could be keep out all year. They are easy to make and a great introduction to using QuikWood. To help you as you sculpt the design, this pattern has a link to a number of small videos. You can watch a video, do the step and then move onto the next step. You can find the videos here: https://janeallencreates.blog/heart-ornaments/
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Surface: ^ 3 Paper Mache Hearts 4” x 4”x1 ½” (www.hobbylobby.com) SKU: 194829 Project Supplies: ^ 1 tube, 2-ounce QuikWood (www.cdwood.com) ^ 20-gauge wire ^ Baby Wipes ^ Parchment Paper ^ Avon Silicon Glove Hand Cream ^ Super Glue Gel ^ Basic Painting Supplies Tools: ^ Cutting blade or old knife ^ Exacto knife ^ Sculpting tools or pencil ^ Wire cutters Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics ^ Blue Harbor ^ Burnt Sienna ^ Buttermilk ^ Cotton Candy ^ Deep Burgundy ^ Dioxazine Purple ^ Foliage Green ^ Indian Turquoise ^ Moon Yellow Paints: DecoArt Dazzling Metallics ^ Emperor’s Gold
Brushes: Loew Cornell ^ #3 Round (Series 7000) ^ #2/0 Liner (Series 7350), ^ #1/2" Angular Shader (Series 7400) ^ 3/8” Crescent Dry brush (Series 247)
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Plantation Pine Purple Cow Raw Sienna Tangelo Orange True Ochre Warm White Whispering Turquoise Wild Berry
Mediums: DecoArt ^ Adhesion Medium ^ Extender ^ Spray Sealer/ Finisher Matte ^ Staining Antiquing Medium
Sculpting Tips: ^ When working with QuikWood (QW): remove jewelry especially rings, work on parchment paper or a wax palette. Apply Avon Silicon Glove before starting and periodically when working. ^ Use Extender for blending QW but be careful to not use too much because it will make your surface gummy. ^ Only mix up the amount needed for the next step. And make sure your QW is thoroughly mixed or it will not cure. ^ Before painting, wipe surface with baby wipe to remove any excess oils. 70
^
Mix any color paint (I usually use Oyster Beige because it is a shade lighter than the QW) with Adhesion Medium and apply to QW areas of project.
Angels – Making Halos (video) Wrap 5” piece of wire around something with a ½” diameter and twist ends together. Trim ends to about 1”. Fold loop over at a right angle and flatten to make oval shape for halo. Angel wings (video) Trace circle where you would place head on heart. Mix 1/4” of QW and divide into 4. Roll each piece into a cone about 1” long and position next to head. Press and flatten. One wing should go up and one go down. Repeat for second ornament. Allow to cure. Angel Faces (video) Mix 1/4” of QW and roll into a ball. Lay parchment paper over pattern and lay clay on top. Press and pat to fill in shape adding more pressure to outside edges to create a dome shape. Lift with blade and lay on heart. Slip halo underneath head and gently pat head into place. Repeat for second ornament. Allow to cure. Angel Noses (video) Mix a sliver of QW and pull off two small balls that are less than ¼”. For snow angel roll ball into a cone about ½” long and lay fat end in the center of the face with the point going up. For the angel, roll into a cone and place cone in center of face with the tip extending below center of face. Use blade to either cut off tip or press on to flatten. Allow to cure. Angel Rose (video) Mix 1/8”of QW and roll into a coil about 2 1/2” long. Lay on parchment paper and flatten. Wait 10 minutes. Pick up and begin rolling on an angle from one end to make a tight center, and then begin pleating bottom so that the petals will fold out. Place painted tool in center and position on heart on top left side next to wings. Allow to cure. Snow Angel Flowers (video) Mix 1/8” of QW and roll into a ball and slightly flatten. Press in center with finger or tool. Using a knife tool, begin cutting in from outer edge, pulling towards center about 1/8” to ¼” to form petal. Repeat across from first cut, and then repeat dividing each side in three. Press finger or tool in center again. Allow to cure. For the other two flowers, mix 1/8” of QW and divide into two with one piece being larger than the other. Roll larger piece into a ball, lay on heart and gently flatten. Press finger into center. Roll other piece into a ball, lay on heart and gently flatten.
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Heart Large Flower Center (video) Sketch circle in upper left area of heart for flower center placement. Mix 3/8” of QW and roll into a ball. Place parchment paper over pattern and place clay in center. Gently pat to fill in pattern creating dome shape. Lift with blade and place on heart, gently pat into place. Using pointy tool or pencil, poke hole in center. Allow to cure. Heart Large Flower Petals (Video) Mix 1/8” of QW and pull off small balls of clay about 3/16”. Roll and place next to center and then gently flatten. Continue until you have petal around the entire center. Mix up more clay if needed. Allow to cure. Heart Flowers (video) Add a flower to the upper right like the large flower on the snow angel. Mix ¼” of QW and divide into two. Divide one piece in two and roll into a cone about 1” long to make leaf. Place on heart on right below second flower and gently flatten. Repeat with second piece of clay making another leaf. Take other piece of clay and divide into two with one piece being larger than the other. Roll larger piece into a ball, place on heart and gently flatten. Press finger into center of flower. Repeat with smaller piece. Allow to cure Finishing Details all three Ornaments (Video) Angel Heart - Mix 1/8” of QW and pull off ¼” ball of clay for angel hair. Roll a coil about 2” long. Lay on top side of face and begin waving back and forth with it coming down the side of the face ending in a curl. Repeat for other side. Pull off smaller ball and roll into a coil about 1” long. Lay on one side of top of face and have it wave across the forehead with a curl at the end. Pull off ¼” ball and place in center of larger flower. Pull off smaller ball for smaller flower. Pull ¼” ball and roll into ½” cone for leaf. Lay on heart and gently flatten. Make 3 more leaves. Pull off very small balls of clay for filler flower and place on heart. Mix more clay as needed. Snow Angel Heart - On the snow angel, pull off two ¼” balls for centers of the two larger flowers. Pull off small ball and place on center of small flower. Pull off three ¼” balls for leaves and roll into ½” cones and place on heart and gently flatten. Add small filler flowers like you did on angel heart. Heart Ornament - Add a ball flower on bottom of heart ornament using a ½” ball of clay. Pull off ¼” ball of clay for centers of three flowers. Add smaller center to ball flower. Add ½” leaves and filler flowers like you did on other hearts. Allow to cure. Hooks for Ornament (video) If you are happy with the string hangers that come on the ornaments you can skip this step. 72
Mix 1/8” of QW and divide in three. Cut strings off ornaments. Roll clay into a ball and place in front of previous hanger since the clay on the front makes the ornaments hang forward. Pinch ball of clay to form triangular shape. Using pointy tool or pencil and push through side of hook on both sides. Allow to cure Painting Instructions: o When base coating, mix adhesion medium + basecoat color (1:1) for the first coat. o Basecoat as follows: Angel Heart - Cotton Candy Flower Heart - True Ochre Snow Angel Heart - Whispering Turquoise Angel Heart: Base face Warm Beige. Float with Warm Beige + Burnt Sienna across forehead and tip of nose. Paint hair Tangelo Orange, eyes Lamp Black, halo Indian Turquoise and cheeks with thinned Wild Berry. Paint wings and filler flowers with Warm White. Shade wings next to head with Indian Turquoise. Paint rose with Wild Berry, other flowers with Buttermilk and leaves with Foliage Green. Float Cotton Candy on edges of rose petals. Paint center of larger flower with Moon Yellow and smaller flower with True Ochre. Place opposite color dot on center of each flower. Shade back of leaves and paint veins with Plantation Pine. Highlight edge of leaves with Indian Turquoise. Paint hook Emperor’s Gold Snow Angel Heart: Base face, wings and filler flowers with Warm White. Float right side of face with Indian Turquoise and across top and down left side with Dioxazine Purple. Paint thinned Blue Harbor where eyes and mouth would go and behind nose. Paint smaller Lamp Black dots to the center right of the blue dots. The blue will now be a shadow for the eyes and mouth. Paint Warm White highlight in eyes and mouth.
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Paint nose Tangelo Orange and shade the back of it with Deep Burgundy. Paint cheeks with thinned Wild Berry. Shade wings next to head with Indian Turquoise. Paint large flower with Blue Harbor and center True Ochre. Line petals with Warm White and dot center with Moon Yellow. Paint medium flower with Purple Cow and center with Moon Yellow, paint small dot on center with True Ochre. Paint small flower with Indian Turquoise and center with Lamp Black. Paint Warm White dot on center. Shade back of leaves and paint veins with Plantation Pine. Highlight edge of leaves with Indian Turquoise. Paint hook Emperor’s Gold Flower Heart: Paint center of large flower with True Ochre. Paint petals and small filler flowers with Warm White. Dry brush Moon Yellow around center. Paint medium flower with Wild Berry and center True Ochre. Line petals with Warm White and dot center with Moon Yellow. Paint two flowers with Whispering Turquoise and center with Moon Yellow, Paint center of larger flower with Moon Yellow and smaller flower with True Ochre. Place opposite color dot on center of each flower. Paint small flower with Indian Turquoise and center with Lamp Black. Paint Warm White dot on center. Shade back of leaves and paint veins with Plantation Pine. Highlight edge of leaves with Indian Turquoise. Paint hook Emperor’s Gold. Finishing : Flyspeck with Emperor’s Gold if desired. Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray varnish ornaments. Mix Antiquing Medium with Deep Burgundy for the pink heart, Dioxazine Purple for the blue heart and Raw Sienna for the yellow heart. I used a little more Antiquing Medium than paint because I wanted to keep it lighter. Brush on ornament making sure to get in all the groves, and then wipe off excess. I did one side at a time. Allow to dry and then spray with another coat of varnish. I hope you enjoy creating this project. If you would like to see more of my work, go to my website at https://www.janeallencreates.com/ or my blog at https://www.janeallencreates.blog/
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Original Design by Anita Morin anita_morin@hotmail.com Ahhhhh, the fragrance of Christmas Cookies – Holiday Joy indeed! 75
Surface: 14 x 5 x ¼ Mink - Ironing Board Plaque #31-L389, available at Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com Project Supplies: Masterson Sta-Wet Handy Palette Brush Basin Large Sanding Pad, Fine/Medium Small Sanding Pad, Fine/Medium Gray Graphite Paper Stylus Tack Cloth Tracing paper Paper Towel Ribbon of your choice Stencils: Medium Fancy Snowflakes Stencil - 8" x 10" www.creativeartslifestyle.com Paints: DecoArt Acrylics Burnt Umber Lamp (Ebony) Black Lavender Lilac Meadow Payne’s grey Sable Brown Snow (Titanium) White
Slate Grey Thicket Traditional Burnt Sienna Tuscan Red Uniform Blue White Peach/Hi-Lite Flesh
Mediums: DS21 DecoArt Dura-Clear Matte Varnish DS7 DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer DS1 DecoArt Drying Time Extender Brushes: Royal Knights by Royal and Langnickel Glaze Wash, series L7700, size no. 1 Shader, series L7150, size no. 10 Filbert, series L7170, size no. 8 Script, series L7585, size no. 10/0” Round, series L7250, size no. 5 Moderna Series M77 Half-moon, series M11HM, size nos. 4,6 Mini mops, series M77MM, size no. Small, Medium, Large Preparation: Please follow all manufacturers’ label instructions for proper product usage. If you are using a wood surface, use the large sandpaper pad to sand any rough edges and surface. Remove dust particles with the tack cloth. MDF should not be sanded. For both surfaces, completely seal with DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer and let dry completely.
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Painting Tips: Unless otherwise indicated, use the brush best suited to the area being painted. Drybrushing: Use the Half-moon set suited for the area you are working with. Load the bristles with paint; rub on a paper towel to remove as much paint as possible until almost dry. Apply light pressure. (This is also a good way to test the shading before applying to the surface.) Repeat this step, if needed. Float/ Shade: Dampen the area you are working in with DecoArt Americana Drying Time Extender instead of water for floating and highlighting. This step will allow a longer play time. Try to avoid puddles. Use the mop brush to remove water lines and to soften the floating and highlighting. Line: All details are painted with the size 10 /0 Script, use inky-consistency paint. Roll the tip of the brush on the palette to remove excess paint, form a tight point and create finer lines. Painting Instructions: Background Use the no. 1 wash brush to basecoat the surface with several coats of Thicket thinned to ink consistency, using long, even brushstrokes; let dry. Smooth the surface between each coat use using the small sanding Pad. Allow to dry. Apply the pattern using tracing paper, transfer paper, and stylus. Face and Hands: Using the no. 8 filbert, basecoat the face and hands with White Flesh. Let dry. Lightly transfer the facial details. Use the no. 10 shader to float along the edges of the face, ears, nose, chin, and hands with Traditional Burnt Sienna. Lightly float along the top of ears, forehead, and the chin area. Apply a darker float along the inside ear, the inside nose, and a small comma along the chin. Let dry. Use the round brush to basecoat a comma inside the nose with the same colour. Outline the eyebrows with the same colour. Highlight the bottom of ears with Snow White. Basecoat the inside of the mouth with Traditional Burnt Sienna. Highlight the inside of mouth with Snow White. Basecoat the eyes with Lamp Black. With Snow White, outline the eye bottom and dot the top. Float along the finger creases with Traditional Burnt Sienna. Highlight the fingertips of left hand and the top fingers of right hand with Snow White.
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Hat and Apron Basecoat the hat and apron with Snow White. Let dry. Lightly float along the pocket, the edges and creases of the hat and apron with Slate Grey. Repeat, if necessary. Basecoat the candy canes with Snow white. Let completely dry. Basecoat the stripes with Tuscan Red. Let dry. Float along the edge with Payne’s Grey. Highlight the center with Snow White. Shoes Basecoat the shoes with Lamp Black. Let dry. Dry-brush a highlight in the center of shoes with Snow White. Use the script liner brush to apply the shoe sole with a brush mix of Lamp Black and Snow White to create a dark grey. Pants and Shirt Basecoat the pants with Uniform Blue. Let dry. Dry-brush the center area with Snow White. Let dry. Float along the edges and creases with Payne’s Grey. Repeat, if necessary. Basecoat the shirt with Lilac Meadow. Let dry. Float along the edges and creases with Lavender. Highlight the top shoulders and the cuff edge with Snow White. Cookie Basecoat the cookie with Sable Brown. Let dry. Float along the hand with Burnt Umber. Let dry. Highlight along the edges of cookie with Snow White. Using the script liner, outline the icing with the same colour. Using the stylus, dot with Snow White. JOY: Using the round brush, basecoat the letters with Snow White. Let dry. Basecoat the stripes Tuscan Red. Let completely dry. Float along edge with Payne’s Grey and highlight the center with Snow White. FINISHING Allow to dry completely and following manufacturer’s instructions, apply 1 to 2 coats of DecoArt Dura-Clear Matte Varnish. Hang with ribbon.
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Juggling Our Way Thru the Holidays! Original Design by Sharon Bond Copyright © 2020 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited. May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.
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“Sometimes it takes a bit of ‘juggling’ to get through the holidays, but Santa doesn’t mind! He’s having some fun with it all!! - Several fun (and easy!)were techniques used to create our background. Hope you will have as much fun painting this as Santa is having here!” Surface: x 13 ½” Vertical Henry Plaque – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L724 Project Supplies: x Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker – (Such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie, available at most stores!) ----OR-----x Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine and/or an Extra Superfine by Faber-Castell (for even finer lines.) (I would suggest two sizes for this project; such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie and also a finer lined marker.) x Scotch’s Magic Tape or Painters Tape (Optional) x Tim Holtz’s Snowflake Stencil – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-67482 x A smaller Snowflake Stencil – any smaller snowflake stencil will do! x Small water mister bottle. x Ordinary Plastic Wrap, such as Saran Wrap or Glad Wrap x Ordinary Ruler (Optional but helpful!) x Small Sponge Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Antique White x Black Green x Boysenberry Pink x Dove Grey x Espresso x Foliage Green x Hauser Dark Green x Honey Brown x Irish Moss x Lamp Black
x x x x x x x x x x
Light Sage Marigold Milk Chocolate Mistletoe Olive Green Rookwood Red Tomato Red True Red Warm Beige Warm White
Specialty Items by DecoArt: x Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher x Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish (optional) x DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Gold Glitz (optional) x DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Limelight (optional) x DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Silver Bling (optional) x DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Sizzling Red (optional) Brushes: x Angle Shader ¼” x Glaze/Wash Brush ¾” x Round # 2 x Round # 3 x Script Liner 10/0 82
Specialty Brushes from Cupboard Distributing: x #4 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-4 x #6 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-6 x Chris’s SPECTACULAR Stencil Brush – Item # 03-926-4 Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to “finely outline” something in Black you can choose whether you want to thin your Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use a Black marker! Also keep in mind when I mention basecoating something with ‘two coats’ of a particular color, it’s always best to let the first coat dry before adding the second coat! This helps tremendously with your coverage! p Preparation: First step is to basecoat the entire plaque in Foliage Green and let dry. I wa wanted to add a bit of variation to the background color, so I misted tthe plaque lightly with water and took Olive Green and Irish Moss and ‘slip-slapped’ it randomly here and there on the plaque. While these colors are still damp (mist again if necessary), take a wet wash brush and with a flowing back-and-forth motion across the plaque, spread these colors out. Add a bit of thinned Foliage Green here and there to help everything blend. Mist your plaque to keep the paints flowing smoothly until you have completed it! You can make this as bold or as subtle as you want! Now you will need to let this dry completely! F our next step, you will need to make a thin wash of Light Sage; For mak make sure this covers a large enough area for you to pat your sponge in. Als Also have a large piece of plastic wrap ready (large enough to cover your plaque with one piece). Paint the entire plaque with Light Sage wash. Keep your wash damp the entire time so mist with water as needed. I then took my sponge and dabbed it in the Light Sage wash as well, patting it over the entire plaque – this quickly removes your brush strokes and creates a more even coverage! While your wash is still well, lay your piece of plastic wrap on top of the plaque and press down gently with your hands. The wrap will wrinkle a bit as you do this, but this is what we want to create our unique background! Gently lift wrap up off of the plaque to reveal a fun design left by the wrap! Remember, no two will look exactly alike! Before tracing on your main design, let this dry completely. Once you have traced on your main outline, you can also use this as a guideline for your stenciling. Randomly stencil various sizes of Snowflakes onto the background with Warm White. Personally, I like to stencil a bit off the edge and also behind a few objects for a more dimensional look! If you need to retrace any of the main design, you can do that after you have finished stenciling! Painting Instructions: Santa Basecoat Santa’s face (and nose) with two coats of Warm Beige. Shade around the edges of the face and behind the nose with Honey Brown. Once dry, lightly drybrush Tomato Red across his cheeks (around the end 83
tips of his mustache) and on his nose. Add Warm Beige back into your brush and drybrush again to tone this down a bit! Basecoat Santa’s coat, clothes and hat with two coats of Rookwood Red (do not basecoat any of the fur trim). Once the Rookwood Red has dried, drybrush with Tomato Red. Highlight with True Red. Paint the small section under his coat flap solidly with Antique Maroon. Shade with Antique Maroon as well, (under his belly, around the fur trim, above and below his belt and under his beard. Let this dry. Basecoat his belt with Black. Basecoat his buckle with two coats of solid Marigold. Basecoat his boots in Black. Drybrush just a bit of Dove Grey over the tops of the boots. If this appears too bold, simply add just a touch of Black back into your brush and drybrush again to tone them down. The buttons on his suit are also done in Black. Basecoat his mittens with Mistletoe (you may need two coats). Drybrush with Foliage Green. Shade along the crease and around the bottom of each mitten with Dark Hauser Green. Let dry. Now for the Fur Trim (including the fur ball at the end of his hat)! Basecoat all of these areas with Antique White and let dry. For the next step, we will need our Antique White and our Warm White handy! Heavily ‘dab’ on a second coat of Antique White and while it is still damp, dab on Warm White as well! Work in small sections at a time! This will give the fur trim a bit of texture and a look more like ‘wool’! Let dry completely! Basecoat his beard and the tuff of hair on his forehead with Dove Grey. Once dry, drybrush these areas with Warm White. (You may want to wet-brush the tips of his beard with Warm White, then blend them in by using your drybrush.) Basecoat the mustache with an equal 50/50 mix of Dove Grey and Warm White. Once dry, highlight with only Warm White. Shade under his mustache and mouth with Dove Grey with a touch of Black added. If you already have a darker Grey on hand, you can use that. His eyebrows are painted solidly with Warm White. His lips are painted with an equal mix of Tomato Red and Warm Beige. The opening of his mouth is Black. Finely outline the entire Santa with Black, including his eyelids! Baby Reindeer – Basecoat the deer with two coats of Milk Chocolate. Once dry, drybrush with Honey Brown. Continue to use the same drybrush and add a bit of Antique White; use this to highlight around the deer’s eye, his chest, top of his ears and tail and also around the top of his hip. Basecoat his eye with Warm White. The iris is Espresso and the pupil is Black. Accents to the eye are added with Warm White. Basecoat the inside of his ears with Boysenberry Pink. Wet-brush a line of Warm Beige along the top of the pink area.
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His nose is based solidly in Tomato Red. Finely outline his eyebrows in Black and then paint them in Honey Brown. His hooves are solid Black. Paint under the top of his tail with Warm White. His antlers are based with two coats of Espresso. I thinned a bit of Honey Brown to highlight the antlers (just by wet-brushing). I did concentrate a bit more of the Honey Brown on the tips of the antlers. His collar is painted solidly in Mistletoe. Paint his jingle bell solidly in Marigold (you can just ‘dip-dot’ it if you like!). Once dry, add the details to the bell with Black. Finely outline the entire deer in Black, including his eyelashes and the curl on the top of his head! Gifts/Packages – This is where a ruler can come in handy! I actually prefer to finely outline all the packages first (using a ruler and my Black marker) before I painted them. This helps me do a better job at ‘staying in the lines’! If I do go out of the lines, it’s easy to line my ruler back up and touch up where I might need too! But you can paint them however you wish! You could paint them first, THEN finely outline in Black. That is probably the preferred way; I just do things a little backwards sometimes! Also, please take note that we are going to paint the entire packages first before we worry about tracing on any ribbons! We will paint the ribbons last! I’m going to list the packages in order, from left to right, starting with the package sitting beside of Santa. I will list the instructions for each package; including the ribbon instructions, so everything will be together for each one. I just thought it would be easier to paint each package first, then go back to trace on and paint the ribbons. Here we go! Package Sitting Basecoat this gift with two coats of Mistletoe. Once dry, drybrush with Irish Moss. When dry, trace on the ribbon and bow and basecoat them with two coats of Tomato Red. The openings in the bow are painted solidly with Rookwood Red. First Package (in rotation Left to Right) Basecoat this package with two coats of Boysenberry Pink. Once dry, drybrush with Warm Beige. Trace bow; paint solidly with Dove Grey. Second Package Basecoat with two coats of Tomato Red. Once dry, drybrush with True Red, then highlight with Boysenberry Pink. Trace ribbon and bow and paint these with Antique Maroon. Paint the little heart in the middle of the bow solidly with Tomato Red. Third Package Basecoat this one with two coats of Olive Green. Drybrush it with Light Sage. Trace ribbon and bow and paint these with Mistletoe. The opening in the bow on the right side is filled in with Dark Hauser Green. I wanted to add a bit of design to this package so I thinned a very small amount of Light Sage and randomly painted small circles. Dab each circle (while still wet) with a soft cloth or tissue to create an almost transparent ‘polka dot’.
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Fourth Package Basecoat the package with two coats of Antique Maroon. Once dry, drybrush with Rookwood Red. Highlight with Tomato Red. Trace on ribbon and bow and paint them with Light Sage. Make sure the bottom openings on the bow are filled in with Antique Maroon to match the package. Fifth Package Basecoat this package with two coats of Irish Moss. Once dry, drybrush with Olive Green. Trace on bow and ribbon and paint them solidly with Marigold. Sixth (last) Package Sixt Basecoat Ba this package with two coats of Tomato Red. Drybrush with True Red a and highlight with Boysenberry Pink. Once dry, trace on the ribbon and bow and paint these with Boysenberry Pink. The openings in the bow are filled in solidly with Rookwood Red. I did decide to add a few stripes going diagonally across the package. I used my ruler and a Red Ultra-Fine Sharpie to do this he here. You could use any color you like or just use your Black marker that you already have. Once packages are complete, finely outline everything in Black (using a marker is easiest!) Lettering All lettering is done in Black. I used my Black Ultra-Fine Sharpie for this! Edging I love to use this technique to really make a design stand out! This technique was created by Chris Haughey and you may have seen her video on how to create it! This gives the edge a “torn paper” look which is unique and simple to do! All the edging is done in Black Green. I used a #3 Round brush (it’s what I had on hand), however Chris uses her #5 Round. Either will work! Have a ‘puddle’ of Black Green on your palette so it is handy and load your brush rather heavily with paint. Simply “roll” the brush back and forth as you go along the edge. (The tip of the brush should be over the edge of the plaque.) This create an irregular or ‘jagged’ edge. Let this dry. Once this has dried, I took my liner brush and slightly thinned Warm White paint and lined around the border edges to complete the look!
Finishing Touches:
Now that we have completed our painting, we will need to seal it. I simply spray sealed mine with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher per instructions and let dry. Once our project has dried, there are so many things you can do to enhance it, if you like! In fact, you do even more if you have the products on hand! This is what I did: x I painted Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish to enhance Santa’s mouth and buttons. I also painted this on the deer’s hooves and eyes. 86
x x x x
I painted DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Gold Glitz – on the fifth package’s bow and ribbon (originally done in Marigold) as well as Santa’s belt buckle and the deer’s jingle bell. I painted DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Limelight – on the third package’s ribbon and bow (originally done in Mistletoe) as well as the deer’s collar. I painted DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Silver Bling – on the first package’s ribbon and bow (originally done in Dove Grey) as well as the fourth package’s ribbon and bow that was originally painted with Light Sage. I painted DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Sizzling Red – on the ‘sitting’ package’s bow and ribbon, as well as the tiny heart on the second package’s bow, the openings on the last package’s bow and the reindeer’s nose!
Once everything has dried, you can add ribbon or wire to create a hanger, if you choose! This project was a lot of fun! I loved using different techniques to add interest to the background! Here’s to hoping you don’t have too much to JUGGLE during this holiday season!! ENJOY!! Ɔ
Thank you! Sharon B
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A Sweet Lullaby By Elisabetta De Maria, CDA
Dearest painting friends, what is more beautiful than seeing a happy child, with heartfelt joy, embracing his Christmas present. A gift from a gentler time, a trusty steed to ride with him to bedtime adventures. I hope you like it and Happy Painting!!!
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Surface: The wood plate has a diameter cm 44 (18” diameter) Project Supplies: Usual Acrylic Tools Ball Stylus Fine Sandpaper Standard Acrylic Painting Supplies Lint Free Cloth Stencil Tim Holtz Flourish THS032 Paints DecoArt Americana Acrylics Antique Gold Antique White Black Plum Blue Chiffon Buttermilk Camel Country Red Fiery Red Neon Paint Hauser Dark Green Hauser Light Green Hauser Medium Green Honey Brown Lamp Black DecoArt Dazzling Metallics Splendid Gold Festive Red
Light Mocha Marigold Plum Sand Soft Black Thermal Green Titanium White Traditional Burnt Umber Warm Beige White Peach Williamsburg Blue Winter Blue DecoArt Glamour Dust Limelight Ice Crystal
Mediums : All Multipurpose Sealer of Choice Varnish of Choice Brushes : Assorted Size Flats for Basecoating Assorted Size Angular for Floating Round Brush n 1 Assorted Size Fine Liners Mop Brush to Blend and Soften Color Round Brush for Drybrush Stencil Brush Painting Techniques Basecoat: Opaque application of background color on surface or component. Shading and Highlighting: Load a small amount of paint in the corner of an Angle Brush, stroke the brush back and forth on the palette paper until most of the paint is out of the brush. It is important that the color be worked in the brush until it is completely transparent. Apply as if walking out a float of color. Repeat if necessary and use the Mop brush to blend the color.
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Drybrush: I use brushes that are dome shaped, rounded and have shorter hairs. Dip the brush into the paint and then wipe the brush on a dry paper towel , rotating the brush until only a residue of paint remains. Move to the surface, use a light pressure and begin “scrubbing” the paint out of the brush, slowly, in a small circular motion. Work the paint outward, allowing it to diminish so that there is a gradation of color. Preparations Using a large brush, apply a coat of Multipurpose Sealer and let dry. If your surface is wood, lightly sand the raised grain with a fine sanding sponge and remove dust with a lint free cloth. If your surface is MDF, do not sand. Background Basecoat with Antique White. When dry, position stencil. Load stencil brush and remove excess paint by rubbing onto a paper towel. Using a circular motion and light pressure, stencil the design using Sand. Place the pattern on the surface and transfer it with graphite paper leaving out details. Painting Instructions Refer to pictures for placement of shading and highlighting Rocking Horse Basecoat Light Mocha and shade with Traditional Burnt Umber. The first highlight is a drybrush of Titanium White color; brighten highlights with a float of Titanium White. Eye and Nose: Basecoat with Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight with Honey Brown and shade with Lamp Black. Paint the light point with Titanium White. Paint the nostril with Traditional Burnt Umber. Mane and Tail: Basecoat with Traditional Burnt Umber. The first highlight is with Honey Brown and repeat with Antique Gold. When the project is complete, add gold accents to the mane and tail using DecoArt Dazzling Metallics Splendid Gold. Bridle and Collar: Basecoat Traditional Burnt Umberand shade with Lamp Black Collar Decorations: Paint the balls with Antique Gold. Shade with Traditional Burnt Umber and highlight with Marigold. When the project is complete, add gold accents with DecoArt Splendid Gold. Saddle Blanket: (Picture on following page) Basecoat: Traditional Burnt Umber, shade with Soft Black and drybrush the center of the front area with Antique Gold.
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Paint theblanket trim with Antique Gold and highlight with Marigold. Shade with Traditional Burnt Umber. Paint the lines with DecoArt Splendid Gold Metallics. Hooves: Basecoat: Traditional Burnt Umber, shade with Soft Black and highlight with Honey Brown. Rocker Base: Basecoat: Honey Brown. Shade with Traditional Burnt Umber and highlight with Antique Gold. Reinforce the shading under the gifts with Soft Black. Rocker Side Edges: Basecoat Traditional Burnt Umber. Shade with Soft Black and deepen with Lamp Black. Highlight with Honey Brown. Tree: Basecoat with Hauser Medium Green Shade with Hauser Dark Green and highlight with Hauser Light Green. When dry, accent with Limelight Glamor Dust. Paint the balls with Country Red and make the light point with Titanium White. When throroughly dry, paint with Dazzling Metallics Festive Red. Gift: Basecoat Antique Gold; highlight with Marigold and shade with Traditional Burnt Umber. Paint the ribbon with Country Red. Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Fiery Red. Embellish ribbon with Dazzling Metallics Festive Red. Striped Ball Paint the ball with Light Mocha and Country Red. Shade the light part with Traditional Burnt Umber and the red part with Black Plum. Accent red areas with Dazzling Metallics Festive Red. Drum Paint the top with Light Mocha and shade with Traditional Burnt Umber. Paint the side supports with Antique Gold altenating with Country Red. Shade the Antique Gold areas with Traditional Burnt Umber and the Country Red sections with Black Plum. When everything is complete, embellish the drum with Dazzling Metallics Festive Red and Splendid Gold . Drumstick: Basecoat the tip with Country Red and the stick Traditional Burnt Umber. Shade the red part with Black Plum. Embellish with Festive Red Metallics.
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Sweet Baby Face and Hand Basecoat White Peach. Shade with Warm Beige and highlight with Buttermilk. Reinforce the highlight with Titanium White. Paint the eyes and nostrils with Traditional Burnt Umber. Paint the mouth with Country Red and the center line with Traditional Burnt Umber. Paint the cheeks with a light float of Country Red. Shade lightly with Traditional Burnt Umber.
Hair Basecoat Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight with Honey Brown and reinforce the tips with Antique Gold. Sweater and Hat Basecoat Country Red. Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Fiery Red. When completely dry, paint with Dazzling Metallics Festive Red. Trousers Basecoat Hauser Medium Green. Shade with Hauser Dark Green and highlight with Hauser Light Green. Brighten highlight with Thermal Green. Fur trim on Headband, Wrist, Neck and Pom Pom Basecoat Winter Blue. Shade with Williamsburg Blue and highlight with Blue Chiffon. Create softness with strokes in various directions using liner and Titanium White. Boot Basecoat Black Plum. Shade with Soft Black and highlight with Plum. Paint the sole and laces with Lamp Black.
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Teddy Bear Head, Ears, Arms, Body and Legs Basecoat Honey Brown. Shade with Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight with Camel lightened with Sand. Muzzle and Inner Ears Basecoat Camel. Shade with Honey Brown. Highlight the muzzle with Sand. Eyes Basecoat Lamp Black and make the light point with Titanium White Eyebrows Traditional Burnt Umber Nose Basecoat Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight with Honey Brown and paint the muzzle line with Honey Brown. Soles of Feet Basecoat Traditional Burnt Umber and shade with with Soft Black. Creating the soft fur: Now with stippling, the appearance of soft fur will be created. (Be sure and fade the colors one into another so there are no harsh lines. Follow the colors data above with shadows and highlights). Using a scruffy brush, starting from the lighest areas, stipple with Camel mixed with a touch of Sand. At the very lightest areas, use the scruffy brush and Sand to create highlights at the ends. Bow Basecoat Country Red. Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Fiery Red. Details If you haven’t done so already, embellish the green areas with LimeLight Glamour Dust, the red areas with Ice Crystal Glamour Dust. Finishing Using a large brush and transparent color, shade around all the design components with Traditional Burnt Umber. Varnish as desired I hope you Enjoy Painting this as much as I did! Happy Painting Elisabetta.
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Enlarge or Reduce Line Drawing to best fit your surface
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Original Design by Susan V. Cochrane
While every snowflake may be different, you can always believe in the magic of Santa to use each of them to spread smiles and good cheer!
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Surface * 10” Snowflake, Available from Cupboard Distributing, Item No. 31-L217, https://www.cdwood.com/products/10-in-frost-snowflake?_pos=1&_sid=f6163e286&_ss=r Project Supplies: * Usual Acrylic Tools * Eraser * Waxed Palette Pad * Paper towels or tissue * Stylus * Adhesive rhinestones (optional) * White and Gray graphite paper * Miracle Compressed Sponges (one or two cut to 1” x 1”), www.dickblick.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics * Foliage Green * Lamp Black * Napa Red * Neutral Grey * Peacock Teal * Warm White * Warm Beige (formerly Fleshtone) Mediums: DecoArt Americana * Dura-Clear Matte Varnish * Craft Twinkles Silver Glitter Paint Brushes: Royal & Langnickel Majestic Paintbrushes * ½” Angular Shader (Series R4160) * 2,4,6,8 Shaders (Series R4150) * 5/0,0 Liners (Series R4595) Brushes: Royal Paintbrushes * ¼” Deerfoot Stippler (Series 660) Brushes: Royal Gold ½” Filbert Comb (Series 930) General Instructions: Erase transfer lines as you go. Use small amounts of paint. All shading and highlighting is done with a double loaded brush. All base coats are solid. Painting: Base coat the entire surface with Neutral Grey. Sponge Warm White over the entire surface. Float Warm White on all tips.
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Face: Transfer an outline (no details) and base coat it with Warm Beige. Note: the outline does not include the beard. Transfer the eyes, eye creases, bags under the eyes, the nose, the mustache and the mouth for placement. Outline the eyes, eye creases, bags under the eyes and the nose tip with Neutral Grey thinned with a bit of water. Be sure these lines are very faint; they are meant to be used as a guide. Eyes: Paint the whites of the eyes with Warm White, the irises with Peacock Blue and the pupils with Lamp Black. Outline the irises and faintly paint the upper and lower lash lines with Lamp Black, thinned with a bit of water. Paint a highlight line of Warm White on the irises under the pupils and dot the pupils. Float a touch t of Neutral Grey under both brows to create the eye sock sockets and on the cheeks under the eye bags. Wi With Napa Red, apply a ve very faint float under b both brows but not under the eye bags. Float a touch of Napa Red on the eye bags above the shading just applied. Float a touch of Warm White in the m middle center area of th the lower lash line and to highlight the eye crea creases. Nose: Float F Warm White down one side s of the bridge of the nose (next to the outline), on the nostrils and tip of the t nose. With Napa Red flo right alongside the Red, apply a very faint float highlight on the bridge of the nose just applied. Float Napa Red to shade the cheeks and repeat for good color. Fur Hat Brim, Holly Leaves, Hat Tail and Pom Pom: Transfer the hat tail, the holly leaves and both side edges of the beard. Using the stippler brush and Neutral Grey, stipple on the brim around the edge of the face only. The mustache remains outlined but not stippled. 101
Brighten the stippled areas and the remaining brim with Warm White. Add small ermine hairs, 2 or 3 in a clump, using Lamp Black. Hat Tail: Basecoat with Napa Red. Highlight the edge closest to the face with Warm Beige for the first float. Repeat. Float again over a smaller area with a touch of Warm White. Apply a final, very faint float of Napa Red on this same area. With a touch of Lamp Black, shade the fur brim next to the edge of the beard, on the left side, next to the tail and next to the edges of the holly. Shade the hat tail with a touch of Lamp Black next to the edge of the pom pom. Pom Pom: Stipple the entire pom with Warm White. Also with Warm White, paint long guard hair lines pulled out from the lower edge of the brim next to the face and around the edges of the pom pom. Add small ermine hairs, 2 or 3 in a clump, using Lamp Black. Ho Holly Leaves: Bas Basecoat with Foliage Green. Divide the leaves one fr from the other and add a center vein with a light float of Lamp Black. Highlight the other side of the center vein with a touch of Warm White. Add tints of Napa Red on a few leaf points and on the shaded side of the veins. B Berries: Pain with Warm White. Float Napa Red to tint on one Paint ea berry. Shade between the berries with a tiny side of each touch of Lamp Black. Beard: Comb lines of Warm White in a general manner leaving some of the background visible. Go over with more dominant individual lines of Warm White applied using the liner. Shade under the lips and next to the lower edges of the mustache yet to be painted. Mouth Area: Paint the lips with Napa Red. Highlight with a very thin float of Warm Beige along the lower edge and finish with a highlight of Warm White. The ‘tongue’ area is painted Lamp Black. Apply light washes of Napa Red throughout. Mustache: Paint strong individual lines of Warm White. Shade next to the tip of the nose with Lamp Black. Apply very light floats of Napa Red to tint. Finishing: Apply 2-3 coats of varnish. Embellish as desired with adhesive rhinestones or accenting with Glitter Twinkles paint.
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Reggie, Mittens, and Pines Original Design by Sharon Cook Just in time for Christmas comes a darling design, Reindeer Rendezvous! This collection of nimble, northern navigators features three rollicking reindeer: Reggie and his miniature sidekicks, Mittens and Pines. You may not hear of these three being on Santa’s front-line sleigh team, but these reindeer will make a delightful addition to your Christmas festivities. Bringing this trio to life will cause you to smile with every brushstroke. Happy painting! Surfaces: | Roger Senior Kit; #31-L709, available from Cupboard Distributing, https://www.cdwood.com/products/rodger-senior-reindeerkit?_pos=3&_sid=5df144854&_ss=r | Roger Junior Kit (2 kits); #31-L710; available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/rodger-junior-reindeerkit?_pos=2&_sid=5df144854&_ss=r Project Supplies | Stretchy Tape-3/4”; SKU: TOOL113_4; available from Creative Arts Lifestyle; https://creativeartslifestyle.com/all-products/stretchy-tape3-4/ | E-6000 or Household GOOP Adhesive | Stylus | Grey and white transfer paper | Clear plastic bag | Thin hemp string thin jute, crochet thread, or embroidery floss | Fine grit sandpaper, sanding disk, or sanding sponge | Thin wire (for hanging the reindeer) Stencils: Tim Holtz Layering Stencils | Pines, THS096; Available from Stamper’s Anonymous, https://stampersanonymous.com/tim-holtz-layering-stencil-pines-ths096.html | Snowflake Layering Stencil—THS050; #09-67482; available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/snowflakes-layering-stencil
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| Sculpting Compound Aves Apoxie Sculpt 2-part Modeling Compound (A & B), available at Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Arcilla-esculpir-blancoNatural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2B1C4XSL6I1BC&dchild=1&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt &qid=1598734383&sprefix=aves+apox%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-1 Paints: DecoArt Media Fluid | Burnt Umber | Cadmium Red Hue | Orange Pyrrole | Quinacridone Violet Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics | Eucalyptus Leaf | Foliage Green | Forest Green | Honey Brown | Laguna | Lemonade | Light Cinnamon | Light Cinnamon | Light Mocha DecoArt Chalky Gesso: | White Brushes: Royal & Langnickel | Zen, Z73WO, Oval Wash, Size 3/4” | Majestic Script Liner, R4585, Size 10/0 | Aqualon Angular, 2160, Size 1/2” and ¾” | Aqualon Round, R2250, Size 8 | Zen, Z83SC, Soft Scrubber, Size 10
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Marigold Open Water Open Water Royal Navy Soft Black Sunny Day Terra Cotta Warm White
Mediums: DecoArt Americana | Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer | Americana Dura-Clear Matte Varnish
Brushes: Chris Haughey | Chris’s Epic 924 Script Liner, Size 18/0, Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/epic-18-0-script-liner Dynasty Brush | Dynasty Stencil Pro Brushes, Sizes 1/2” and 5/8”; Available from The Brush Guys: https://www.thebrushguys.com/cgi-bin/sc-v4/proddisp.pl?client=firesaleguys&catid= 429&PRID=6475
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Preparation Trace design onto tracing paper. The reindeer require no sanding. Apply Multi-purpose Sealer to the front, sides, and back of each. Allow to dry. Lightly sand; tack to remove any sanding dust. Holly Berries Following manufacturer’s directions for Apoxie Sculpt Modeling Compound, mix equal amounts of Compound A and Compound B until thoroughly blended. Cut a two-inch square from the plastic bag and place it over the pattern of the holly berries. Pinch off a small amount of the combined sculpting compound and roll it into a small ball. Place the ball on the plastic, matching it to one of the berries on the pattern beneath it and slightly flatten the ball to fit. Do the same for the other two berries, attaching them to the plastic over the pattern. Lightly flatten each ball as you press it in place, joining the three berries together. Set aside to dry for several hours before painting. Painting Instructions Background Base all reindeer with Terra Cotta. Transfer the main lines of the saddle blankets, eyes, bridle, and other details. Stipple, then dry brush each reindeer with an equal mixture of Honey Brown and Marigold. Repeat dry brushing with Marigold to brighten the highlights. Float to shade the reindeer with Light Cinnamon, floating around the eyes, saddle blankets, bottom of ears, sides of ears (about halfway up), bottom of tail, and around body and head. Deepen all floated shading with thin floats of Media Fluid Burnt Umber. Base the feet (the oval and round shaped beads of wood) with Soft Black. Base the antlers with Light Mocha. Base the details of the reindeer with White Chalky Gesso (the saddle blankets, bow, eyes, bridle, and Santa’s hat.) The Gesso will provide an undercoat for the various colors painted on top of it and will help them to appear brighter. Reggie Reindeer (the large guy) Base the center of Reggie’s saddle blanket with equal amounts of Open Water and Royal Navy. Stipple, then dry brush the center of the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Laguna and Open Water. Clip several pieces of the ¾” stretchy tape along one side, about 1/3” apart, and tape around the edge of the blue saddle blanket. (The tape will block the stenciled trees from getting on the rest of the saddle blanket.) Using the Pines layering stencil, stencil the blue portion of the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Eucalyptus Leaf and Foliage Green. Stencil the top of the tip of the trees with Lemonade, and the base of the trees with Forest Green. Stipple the tree trunks with Light Cinnamon. Stencil the snowflakes on the blue area of the saddle blanket with Warm White. 107
Blanket Details: Base the red border around the saddle blanket with Media Fluid Pyrrole Orange, followed by a base coat of Media Fluid Cadmium Red Hue. (The Pyrrole Orange base beneath the Cadmium Red Hue creates a brighter, true red color.) Float next to the inner edge of the red border with Pyrrole Orange to highlight. Float around the outer edge of the red border with Media Fluid Quinacridone Violet to shade. Dot the red border with Warm White. Base the thin lines between the blue and red area of the saddle blanket and the thin line around the outer edge of the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Sunny Day and Marigold. Bridle: Base with the yellow mixture of Sunny Day and Marigold. Use equal mixture of Sunny Day and Warm White to drybrush the center of the bridle. Shade around the bridle with a mixture of 90% Marigold and 10% Honey Brown. Line the thin blue trim above and below the bridle, and the dots between the hearts on the bridle, with an equal mixture of Royal Navy, Open Water, and Laguna. Base the two red hearts on the bridle with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Shade the hearts with Quinacridone Violet. Base the green heart with Foliage Green; float the top of the heart with Lemonade and shade the heart with Forest Green. Reggie’s Face Details: Base eyes with Warm White. Shade the outer edges of the eyes with Light Mocha, with a tiny drop of Honey Brown added to slightly deepen the color. Thin Terra Cotta slightly with water and float the iris in the eyes, followed by a very thin float of Light Cinnamon around the outer edge of each Iris. Base the pupils with Soft Black. Highlight the center of the pupils with an oblong dot of Warm White. Adding a Rosy Touch: Very, very lightly dry brush Coral Blush inside the ears, the cheeks, center top of the tail, on the rump, and very lightly around the bottom of the reindeer. 108
Base the nose with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Stipple, then float to highlight, the top portion of the nose with Pyrrole Orange. Stipple, then float to shade, the bottom portion of the nose with Quinacridone Violet. Stroke the nose with Warm White. Holly and Berries Base the holly leaves with an equal mixture of Foliage Green and Eucalyptus Leaf. Dry brush the center of the leaves with Lemonade to highlight. Shade around the leaves with Forest Green; float the veins in the leaves with Forest Green. Base the berries with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Drybrush the top of each berry with Pyrrole Orange. Shade between each berry, and around the sides of each berry, with Quinacridone Violet. Dot each berry with Warm White to highlight.
Antlers Using the Pines layering stencil, stencil the antlers in the same manner as was done on the blue portion of the saddle blanket. Shade around the edges of the antlers with an equal mixture of Light Mocha and Honey Brown. Mittens Reindeer (the small gal with mittens on her saddle blanket) Base the center of the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Foliage Green and Eucalyptus Leaf. Dry brush the center with Lemonade to highlight. Float the edges of the green area with Forest Green to shade. Base the mittens with Chalky Gesso, then with an equal mixture of Sunny Day and Marigold. Use an equal mixture of Sunny Day and Warm White to drybrush the center of each mitten to highlight. Shade the mittens with a mixture of 90% Marigold and 10% Honey Brown.
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Line the cuffs of the mittens with Honey Brown. Base the hearts with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Shade the hearts with Quinacridone Violet. Dot each mitten with Warm White. Base the trim around the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Royal Navy, Open Water, and Laguna. Base the black checks in the trim along the bottom with Soft Black. Base the bow on her head with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Float the top portion of the bow with Pyrrole Orange to highlight and shade the bow with floats of Quinacridone Violet. The eyes for Mittens are done in the same manner as Reggie’s eyes. The nose is also painted in the same manner as Reggie’s nose. Adding a Rosy Touch: Very, very lightly dry brush Coral Blush inside the ears, the cheeks, center top of the tail, on the rump, and very lightly around the bottom of the reindeer. Antlers: Shade around the edges of the antlers with an equal mixture of Light Mocha and Honey Brown. Add a tiny heart to one side of the antlers with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Pines Reindeer (the small guy wearing the Santa hat) Base the center of the saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Sunny Day and Marigold. Drybrush the center area with an equal mixture of Sunny Day and Warm White to highlight. Shade around the yellow area with a mixture of 90% Marigold and 10% Honey Brown. Base the tree with an equal mixture of Foliage Green and Eucalyptus Leaf. Dry brush the center of the tree with Lemonade to highlight. Create the plaid pattern in the tree by lining every other line with Laguna and Forest Green. Float to shade around the edges of the tree with Forest Green. Base the tree trunk with Terra Cotta. Shade the bottom of the tree trunk with Light Cinnamon. Base the star at the top of the tree and the heart below the tree with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Shade heart and star with Quinacridone Violet.
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Base trim around saddle blanket with an equal mixture of Royal Navy, Open Water, and Laguna. Dot the trim around the saddle blanket with Warm White. Santa Hat: Base the hat with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Dry brush the center of the hat with Pyrrole Orange, and float along the top of the hat. Float to shade the hat with Quinacridone Violet. Shade the hat brim and pom-pom with a thin, watery float of Laguna. Base holly leaves with Foliage Green; highlight with Lemonade and shade with Forest Green. Dot holly berry with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. The eyes and nose are done in the same manner as Reggie Reindeer. Adding a Rosy Touch: Very, very lightly dry brush Coral Blush inside the ears, the cheeks, center top of the tail, on the rump, and very lightly around the bottom of the reindeer. Antlers: Shade around the edges of the antlers with an equal mixture of Light Mocha and Honey Brown. Add a tiny heart to one side of the antlers with Pyrrole Orange, followed by Cadmium Red Hue. Lining Line the “fur” around the pom-pom and hat brim on Pine reindeer’s Santa Hat with Warm White, using short, choppy strokes. Thin a pool of Soft Black slightly with water, and using the 18/0 liner, line everything else. Finishing Instructions: DuraClear Matte Varnish: Varnish the top, sides, and back of the pieces with two coats of varnish, drying well before application. Assembly Using either Household GOOP or E-6000 Adhesive, attach noses and antlers to each reindeer. Attach the holly berries to the holly leaves for Reggie Reindeer and then attach holly leaves to Reggie. Lay the reindeer on a flat surface for several hours to allow the adhesive adequate time to cure.
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For my reindeer, I used thin, dark brown hemp. However, you could also use thin jute, embroidery floss, or crochet thread to create the dangling legs. Cut two 12” lengths each of the hemp for each small reindeer, (4 lengths in total), and four 14” lengths for the large reindeer. Thread two of the 14” lengths through one of the holes on the bottom of the large reindeer; bring the ends of the hemp string together and thread through two of the black oval beads. Decide how long you want the legs to be and tie a double knot in the ends of the jute to keep the beads from slipping off. Helpful Tip: You might want to consider gluing the hemp knot to the bottom of the beads to make it even more secure. Repeat for the other reindeer leg, being careful that the beads hang at the same length for each leg. Repeat the process for the two smaller reindeer, using one 12” length for each leg, and using the small round wooden beads for the feet.
Copyright Notice: © Copyright 2020 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information presented, results cannot be guaranteed.
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By Deb Mishima debmishima1@gmail.com
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I wanted to bring the quiet, peaceful beauty of the season into this painting. From the warmth of the background to the softness of the bunny, the magic takes me there. Surface: * 9” x 12” wood canvas Project Supplies: * Stamp: Intricate Snowflakes SKU CRS5107, www.stampendous.com * Micron Pen, Black #01 * Ball Stylus * Grey Transfer Paper * Circle Template Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics * Aloe * Antique White * Bleached Sand * Desert Sand * Evergreen * Fawn * Hauser Medium Green * Heritage Brick * Lamp Black * Light Buttermilk * Light Sage * Mocha * Plantation Pine * Slate Grey * Snow White * Sugared Peach * Wild Berry Mediums: DecoArt * Chalky Finish, Yesteryear * Galaxy Glitter, Red Nebula * Glamour Dust, Sprinkle-On Glitter - Crystal Specialty Brushes: Chris Haughey * Radical Round #927 #5 * 1/8” Awesome Angle, Series 925 * 18/0 Epic Script Liner Standard Brushes * ¼” and ½” Angular Shaders of choice * ¼” ½” Flat of choice * 10/0 Liner * 2” Palmer White Bristle, Series #37036, available from the Brush Guys * Assorted Dry Brushes, Mop Brushes and Scumblers
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Preparation: Do Not Sand MDF Based on the surface you’re using, if necessary, sand surface until smooth. Apply Multi Purpose Sealer and lightly sand again to knock down any raised grain. Painting Instructions: Background: Basecoat the surface with Chalky Finish, Yesteryear. Drybrush with Warm White using the Palmer 2” brush. Bunny: Basecoat the bunny with Light Buttermilk. Trace on the details. Shade Antique White under the brim, around the eyes, around the outside edges and under the cheeks, down the left side of the neck, above and below the scarf, inside of the arms, between the body and the ears, where the foot touches the body and ears, outside edge of the ears, around the toe and heel pads of the feet and around the bottom of the feet. Highlight Warm White, along the top and bottom of the cheeks, right side of the neck, inside edge of the ears, outside edge of the body (where it touches the arms), top of the feet and around parts of the toe and heel pads. Deepen the shading here and there with Fawn. Add some SnowWhite highlights here and there. Drybrush Warm White between the eyes, middle of the cheeks and ears, down the body and in the middle of the pads. Drybrush again here and there with Mocha. Face: Drybrush the cheeks using a C motion with Mocha. Drybrush again softly with Heritage Brick. Drybrush in the middle of the cheeks with Warm White. Nose and Mouth: Basecoat the nose and mouth with Mocha. Shade Heritage Brick around the edge of the nose and along the top of the mouth. Drybrush softly in the middle of the nose with Warm White. Highlight along the bottom of the mouth with Warm White. Eyes: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Highlight each eye with a C-stroke float of Snow White. Dot the pupils Snow White. Line the lashes with Lamp Black. 118
Hat: Basecoat the brim with Bleached Sand. Shade around all the edges, except the bottom, with Desert Sand. Highlight the bottom with Snow White. Stripes: Green Stripes: Basecoat with Light Sage. Shade with Aloe. Highlight with Warm White. Deepen shading with Hauser Medium Green. Drybrush Warm White. Line with Heritage Brick. Red Stripes: Basecoat with Sugared Peach. Shade with Wild Berry. Highlight with Warm White. Deepen shading with Heritage Brick. Drybrush Warm White. Dot with Bleached Sand and Aloe. Highlight along the top of the toque with Warm White. Stipple the Pom Pom with Warm White. Line the fur on the Pom Pom with Snow White. Using the Rake Brush and Snow White, brush the fur onto the brim of the hat using irregular length, wispy strokes. Details: Line the hair, whiskers, and random fur with Snow White. Line the bows at the tip of the toque and on the ears with Lamp Black Scarf: Basecoat with Light Sage. Shade Aloe along the top and sides of the neck part, walking inwards. Highlight Warm White here and there along the top and bottom. Deepen shading with Hauser Medium Green. Highlight again here and there with Snow White. Drybrush Warm White along the middle. Shade Aloe down the left side and between the two tails of the scarf, and at the bottom of both tails. Highlight Warm White down the right side of both tails and along the left side of the left tail where it touches the neck part of the scarf. Deepen the shading with Hauser Medium Green. Highlight again here and there with Snow White. Line the stripes and crosses with Bleached Sand. Line the stitching with Lamp Black. Line the fringe with Bleached Sand. Large Ornament: Basecoat with Sugared Peach. Shade Wild Berry on either side of the stripes, along the top and on either side (avoiding the Centers) walking the color inwards. Highlight Warm White along each side in the center (this helps to shape the ornament). Deepen the shading here and there with Heritage Brick. Drybrush Warm White in the middle. Line the thin stripes with Snow White. Basecoat the larger stripes with Warm White. 119
Shade Antique White. Highlight Snow White. Basecoat the hanger holder with Warm White. Shade Antique White. Line the hanger and string with Lamp Black. Fir: First line the fir needles with Evergreen. Add more needles with Plantation Pine. Stipple snow here and there with Snow White. Line more fir needles with Snow White. Line the lower berry branches with Slate Grey. Highlight with Snow White. All Berries: Using the circle template (or freehand) and Heritage Brick, stencil on the berries. Stipple on some snow. Add a little Matte Medium to the snow stipple and while still wet sprinkle with Glamour Dust Small Ornament: Basecoat with Sugared Peach. Shade around the edges with Wildberry. Highlight Warm White along the top. Deepen the shading lightly here and there with Heritage Brick. Drybrush the center with Warm White. Line the stripes Wild Berry. Use the Micron Pen to line Merry Xmas. Basecoat the hanger holder with Warm White. Line the hanger and bow with Lamp Black. Finishing Touches: Brush on Galaxy Glitter, Red Nebula onto the red sections of the hat and the small and large ornament. Lightly spray several coats of All-Purpose Matte Sealer, following manufacturers instructions.
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kdolls.designs@gmail.com
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One of the things I love the most about the holidays, is baking and sharing. I hope this happy group of winter friends will encourage you to share the holidays with people you care about. Enjoy!! Surface: x #31-L290 12" Mason Jar Plaque www.cdwood.com Project Supplies: x Black Micron Pen 01 x Stylus x Dark Transfer Paper x Tracing Paper x Cotton Swabs x 1" Sea Sponge, x Rusty Wire for Making Hangers or Small Ribbon, x Pliers if Using Wire DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint: x Antique Maroon x Avocado x Burnt Sienna x Dark Chocolate x Foliage Green x French Grey Blue x Graphite x Grey Sky x Honey Brown x Lamp Black
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Light Buttermilk Milk Chocolate Raw Sienna Russet Slate Grey Snow White Tangerine Terra Coral Tomato Red Winter Blue
Mediums: x Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte DAS13 x DecoArt Acrylic Gesso TXFP06 Brushes: x Round sizes 1, 3 & 5 x Flat Wash 3/4" x Shaders 16 & 20 x Script Liner (long bristles) 10/0 & 5/0 x Mop 1/4 & 1/2 x Fabric Rounds 1/8 & 1/4 x Old Brushes: 1 Round, 1/4" angular Helpful Tip: Use the round brushes to basecoat. The script liners to paint vines, boughs, highlight strokes and small details. Use the 3/4" flat wash to float color areas and wide shades and highlights. 125
The shaders to float color, shade and highlight (When floating color, load the brush with a wider amount of paint then done for shading or highlighting.). The fabric rounds to drybrush inner highlights and cheeks. The mops to blend floated areas. Use the cotton swabs as a mini mop. The old brushes to stipple snow areas and make snowmen bodies. Preparation: 1. Place a pile of Gesso onto your palette paper, then add a little water to loosen it slightly. Wet the 1" piece of sea sponge and squeeze it so it is just damp. Dip the sponge into the Gesso, with a pouncing motion, cover the plaque with Gesso. Allow this to dry, then repeat another layer. 2. Completely cover plaque using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Apply a second coat of Light Buttermilk, let dry. 3. Trace patterns onto tracing paper using the Black Micron Pen. 4. Transfer the basic design lines onto the plaque, using the small end of a stylus and transfer paper. Transfer the detail lines as needed.
Instructions: As you paint, refer to the pattern for shading (///) and highlights (...) Jar Lid: Float color using Burnt Sienna, let dry. Deepen color using Russet, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry then stipple same color onto lid, see photos. Sky Background Areas: Float using Winter Blue, let dry. Shade darkest shaded background areas using another layer of Winter Blue. After painting is completed, make snow dots using the handle tip of the liner brush and Snow White.
Basic Painting Instructions Snowmen: Float snowman body and snow areas using French Grey Blue (not the small snow mounds), let dry. Stipple first layer of snow body and snow areas using Light Buttermilk, let dry. If needed shade lightly using a small amount of French Grey Blue. Stipple the snowmen and snow areas using Snow White, allowing some shading to still be seen, let dry. Carrot Noses: Paint Tangerine and let dry. Shade noses using Burnt Sienna. Twig Arms: Float Milk Chocolate twig arms; let dry then paint detail lines. Facial Details: Drybrush Cheeks with Terra Coral. Paint eyes and mouth Lamp Black. 126
Gingerbread Bodies: Float gingerbreads using Honey Brown, let dry. Paint Light Buttermilk frosting areas. Shade using Raw Sienna, let dry. Deepen the darker body shades using a small amount of Dark Chocolate, let dry. Paint Lamp Black eyes. Paint Graphite buttons. Candy Canes: Shade candy canes using Honey Brown, let dry. Paint red areas using Tomato Red, let dry. Shade red areas using Antique Maroon, let dry. Paint Snow White highlight strokes and make dots. Holly Leaves: Float holly leaves using Foliage Green, let dry. Shade leaves using Avocado, let dry. Paint center leaf details using Avocado, let dry. Float a small amount of Tomato Red on leaves (see photos). **All vines, boughs, small snow clumps, berries and snow dots will be added once all the other painting is completed. Large Snowman with Hat: Hat,
Cookies & Measuring Spoons: Float hat color using Graphite, let dry then repeat with another layer of color. Float hat band color using Terra Coral, let dry. Float brown cookie color using Honey Brown, let dry. Float snowman cookie frosting using French Grey Blue, let dry. Float measuring spoons using Slate Grey, let dry. Deepen shading on the hat using a small amount of Lamp Black. Float hat band color, using Tomato Red (over the Terra Coral), let dry then repeat. Shade cookie and snowman cookie edges using Milk Chocolate, let dry then make dots with small end of the stylus. Paint a Tangerine nose on the snowman cookie. Paint Milk Chocolate, chocolate chips on the large cookie. Deepen shading on the cookies using a small amount of Dark Chocolate. Drybrush a tiny cheek on the snowman cookie using Terra Coral. Shade measuring spoons using Graphite, let dry. Highlight chocolate chip cookie and measuring spoons using Snow White, let dry then paint tiny strokes. Paint tiny Graphite lines on inner spoons. Scarf & Mittens: Float scarf and mitten color using Foliage Green, let dry then apply another layer of color, let dry. Paint light stripes using Light Buttermilk, on the scarf, let dry. Paint dark green lines on the mittens using Avocado. Dot scarf and mittens using Tomato Red. Paint tiny trees on the scarf ends using Avocado, let dry. Paint a snowflake on each mitten using Snow White, let dry. Shade
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scarf and mittens using Avocado, let dry then paint detail lines with the same color, let dry. Highlight scarf using Snow White. Cupcake: Float cupcake paper color using Tomato Red, let dry then paint lines. Float frosting color using Terra Coral, let dry. Deepen Shading on the paper using Antique Maroon. Paint green sprinkles on the frosting using Foliage Green, let dry. Shade frosting using Tomato Red, let dry. Dry brush center of cupcake paper using Snow White and float frosting highlights, let dry then paint tiny strokes on the frosting. Large Chocolate: Float chocolate using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Paint frosting loops using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Shade chocolate using Dark Chocolate. Shade frosting loops using Honey Brown, let dry. Highlight frosting loop's upper edges using Snow White. Frosted Cake: Float brown cake color using Honey Brown, let dry. Shade frosting using Honey Brown. Shade cake using Milk Chocolate, let dry then make dots, let dry. Deepen shading on the darkest areas of the cake, using Dark Chocolate. Highlight frosting using Snow White, let dry then paint strokes. Rolling Pin: Float Terra Coral, for the color on the handle, let dry. Float Honey Brown for the wood pin and end areas, let dry. Float Tomato Red over the handle, let dry. Shade wood areas of the rolling pin using Milk Chocolate, let dry then paint the wood grain. Shade the handle using Antique Maroon. Drybrush rolling pin highlights using Light Buttermilk. Paint Avocado green rings. Hangtag: Float tag color using Honey Brown, let dry. Shade using Milk Chocolate, let dry then paint cracks and lines, let dry. Float a small amount of Dark Chocolate on the ends and upper edge, let dry. Paint Lamp Black letters "Thyme to Bake" on the tag. Gingerbread Cookie Cutter: Float cutter color using Slate Grey, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry. Highlight using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Float "rust areas" using a small amount of Burnt Sienna.
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Small Snowman in Measuring Cup Cupcake: Float color onto the cupcake paper using Tomato Red, let dry then paint the lines. Float chocolate's color using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Paint tiny green sprinkles using Foliage Green and dot red sprinkles using Tomato Red, let dry. Shade paper using Antique Maroon. Shade frosting using Foliage Green, let dry. Shade chocolate using Dark Chocolate, let dry. Highlight frosting using Snow White, let dry then paint highlight strokes. Drybrush paper highlights using Light Buttermilk. Paint frosting swirl on chocolate using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Shade frosting swirl lightly using Honey Brown. Measuring Cup: Float color using Slate Grey, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry. Highlight using Grey Sky. Paint Lamp Black lines on the side of the cup. Ink or paint 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 on the cup side. Bag of Gingerbread Men: Apply another shade of French Grey Blue around the outer edges of the bag, let dry. Float gingerbread bodies using Honey Brown, let dry. Paint frosting lines using Light Buttermilk. Shade using Raw Sienna, let dry. Paint Graphite buttons. Paint Lamp Black eyes. Deepen shading at darkest areas using Dark Chocolate, let dry. Float the bag using a small amount of Honey Brown, let dry. Float Snow White to form the transparent bag and upper folds, let dry and then paint highlight strokes. Paint a Tomato Red bow at the neck of the bag. Large Berries: Float berry color using Terra Coral, let dry. Apply 2 floats of Tomato Red, over the Terra Coral, let dry. Shade using Antique Maroon, let dry. Paint Lamp Black berry ends. Vines, Berries, Boughs, Snow Clumps & Sky Snow Dots: Paint vines and bough centers using Dark Chocolate. Paint dark bough needles using Avocado and light needles using Foliage Green. Stipple "snow clumps" using Snow White. Dot berries using Tomato Red and end of the stylus. Dot snow in sky using Snow White and the handle tip of the script liner. 131
Finish: 1. Spray the entire painted surfaces using Matte Spray Varnish, let dry then repeat. 2. Cut a 20" piece of rusty wire. Curl 4" of one end, then thread through one hole. Form your hanging loop on the back of the plaque. Push remainder of wire, from back to front to form the other loop of wire to hold the hanger. Be careful not to scratch your paint while doing this. Use a ribbon in place of the wire if you wish. Any questions or concerns, please contact me: Karen Wisner/Dyar- kdolls.designs@gmail.com or message me on Facebook "Karen Wisner"
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Annette Dozier A Rosie Singlewitch Donna Hodson, CDA Martha Smalley Linda Hollander Sandy Le Flore Elisabetta De Maria, CDA Sharon Bond Debby Forshey Choma Sue Cochrane Deb Mishima
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