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In Campania

Of course it’s the region which produces the most suitable tomatoes for drying - the San Marzano region - that celebrates them and gives them the recognition they deserve by registering dried tomatoes in the PAT list, that of Traditional Agri-Food Products recognised by the Ministry of Agricultural Policies. The preparation, which takes on truly ritual characteristics, is the same as that of other regions. Between August and September the firmest and ripest tomatoes are washed, dried and cut in half, covered with coarse salt and spread out in the sun. Turned from time to time and covered with a light cloth to protect them from insects and night humidity, once completely dried, they are placed in terracotta pots and stored in a cool place in the house, or in jars in oil. They are eaten on local frise or as a condiment for Salento pasta or traditional Salento pucce.

In Puglia

Here tradition has it that the tomatoes, carefully washed under running water, are dried with a cloth and cut in half lengthwise. Lying on the 'zcafich (a wooden frame), are sprinkled with salt, coarse or fine, with a dosage strictly by eye. They are left to dry for 5 or 6 days, turned over after the third day and brought indoors at night. Once the water has been lost, they must be rinsed and blanched for a few moments in a solution composed of water and vinegar, to sterilize them. Dried, they are kept in glass "boccacci", pouring extra virgin olive oil up to half of the container and inserting the tomatoes one at a time, trying to compact them as much as possible. According to taste, garlic, mint, wild oregano, capers, basil, hot pepper can be added. The jar is then filled to the brim and quickly boiled to obtain a vacuum seal. They are eaten accompanied by frisa soaked in a little water to soften it, seasoned with a drizzle of oil, a few capers, tuna and oregano.

In Sicily

It is the capuliato or capuliata that steals the show. It is a typical condiment of Sicilian cuisine based on dried tomatoes, linked in particular to the territory of the municipality of Vittoria, traditionally linked to the greater production of tomatoes. The processing foresees that they are washed, cut, salted and dried in the sun for 8 days, turning them on the fifth. Subsequently they are ground, usually with a meat grinder and gener- ally placed in oil, in a marinade that includes basil or oregano, to which garlic, chilli pepper or bay leaves can also be added. The capuliato is mainly used to season pasta - to which garlic, oil and also fried breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, grated cheese - bread or bruschetta are added, but also to flavour the stuffed focaccia typical of the Ragusa area, the scacce. The word "capuliato" means "shredded" and refers precisely to the type of processing that involves grinding. The same term is also used for "carne capuliata", i.e. minced meat. The word "capulare" already existed in vulgar Latin, with the meaning of "to cut into small pieces": from Latin, it then evolved into Aragonese, with the verb "capolar", which remained the same in Catalan and Castilian Spanish. The most delicious type of tomato for this preparation is the Ciliegino Pachino PGI and if you want to learn another term in dialect, note that dried tomatoes are called ciappa.

In Calabria

Here the dried tomatoes are immersed in a mix of water and wine vinegar together with garlic and chilli pepper. Once dried, they are placed inside a glass container with the addition of a little oil. They are then topped with a layer of oregano and garlic and another layer of capers and basil. Finally, a little more oil is added, until all the free space is filled. They are ready after resting in the dark for 2 or 3 months.

In Sardinia

Dried tomatoes are called pibadra or pilarda or piarra, depending on the area. Once dry, they are placed in glass jars with alternating basil and/or bay leaves and a little coarse salt between one layer and another. Therefore, no oil, unlike the recipes of the South. In Bosa and Alghero, a special sauce called garlic (azzada in Sardinian) is prepared with dried tomatoes: the dried tomatoes are cut into small pieces and fried with garlic, oil and chopped parsley. Then peeled tomatoes, oil and vinegar are added. Agliata is used with fish (ray, dogfish, octopus) previously boiled or fried, but also with lamb or beef liver cut into strips and cooked in a pan. In the past, those who went to sea used it to preserve fish on board boats.

In addition to traditional recipes, the versatility of dried tomatoes allows them to cross the entire menu, from appetisers to side dishes. On a warm bread bruschetta, added to vegetable, legume or cereal salads, turned into sauces, cut into small pieces in bread dough, in savoury pies or on pizza, or as an accompaniment to white meats, fresh cheeses and oily fish, they are an ingredient capable of igniting practically any recipe with flavour and above all they are capable of not making us forget the taste of summer.