Pizza and cured meats: an overview

The variety of cured meats that make up our "gastronomic atlas" probably has no equal in the world. If the use of cold cuts on pizza is now commonplace, there are however some precautions to bear in mind. The first is to know well the gustatory, organoleptic and geographical characteristics of each product, to enhance it to the fullest; the second is to pay attention to cooking, which in most cases risks causing the cured meats to lose all their aromatic richness. The third is not to fear simplicity and to use one cured meat at a time, thus managing to make the most of each selected product. Having said that, here is a roundup of cured meats ready to be sliced.

Raw Ham

Having available a real heritage of PDO or PGI branded products, capable of transforming each topping into a real dish, the first trick is to not use raw ham during cooking but to add it outside the oven. In fact, high temperatures risk increasing the flavour of the cured meat and drying it excessively, also causing it to lose its organoleptic qualities and tasty characteristics. Therefore, it is better to avoid wasting an excellent product and, rather, choose carefully which one to use, perhaps enhancing the specificities of the flavours (sweetness, aromatic notes, sapidity) and the territory. There is a wide range of samples to choose from: Parma ham (PDO, Emilia-Romagna), San Daniele (PDO, Friuli Venezia Giulia), Amatriciano (PGI, Lazio), Carpegna (PDO, Marche), Modena (PDO, Emilia -Romagna), from Norcia (PGI, Umbria), from Sauris (PGI, Friuli Venezia Giulia), Tuscan (PDO, Tuscany); Veneto Berico-Euganeo (PDO, Veneto), Crudo di Cuneo (PDO, Piedmont).

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Speck

Intense, savoury taste, with hints of smoke, spices and aromatic herbs. No other introductions would be needed for speck. South Tyrol has made it one of its flagship products and, also in this case, given an already marked flavour, it is good to add it to the pizza after cooking to avoid drying it out. It is once again the flavour that guides the combinations, for which we must prefer delicate cheeses, so as not to go into contrast but rather create a nice balance. The addition of other ingredients that recall the mountain context, such as mushrooms, is also good.

Cooked Ham

The delicacy, in both taste and colour, is the essence of cooked ham, to which the thin border of fat gives a fuller flavour. However, under the general wording, which is rather vague, there are enormous differences, above all related to the use of preservatives and dyes or related to the breeding conditions of the pigs. Italian law identifies three distinct qualitative categories for cooked hams, which differ in the ratio between the percentage of water and lean meat: "cooked ham", obtained from the thigh of the pig, the humidity of which must be lower than or equal to 82%; the "selected cooked ham", for which at least 3 of the 4 main muscles of the whole thigh must be identifiable and with a humidity lower than or equal to 79.5%; finally, the "high quality cooked ham", with a humidity level lower than or equal to 76.5%.

Pancetta Bacon

Stretched out or rolled up, tastier or with sweeter tones thanks to the enveloping embrace of the fat, the rule of adding the slices out of the oven or right in the final moments of cooking also applies to pancetta. Also in this case the heat plays a fundamental role, releasing and enhancing the aromas. To be noted, in particular, the Pancetta di Calabria (PDO), with a good flavour and which can be made even more captivating by the addition of chilli pepper or the Pancetta Piacentina, more delicate and sweet.

Salami

From north to south, you are spoiled for choice. If Lombardy boasts Brianza (PDO), Cremona (PGI, Lombardy) and Salame di Varzi (PDO), Emilia Romagna responds with Felino (PGI) and Piacentino (PDO), Sicily with that of S. Angelo (PGI), while practically all of Italy is united in the production of Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora (PDO). Here the advice is to carefully study their characteristics and distinctive traits in taste to make the most of them and, consequently, it is better to add them at the end of cooking, to prevent the oven from destroying their flavour.

Mortadella

If mortadella is so sweet and delicate, the credit goes entirely to the fat in the throat, perhaps the most precious of adipose tissue. Pink colour, slightly spicy and intense aroma, velvety surface, delicate flavour: mortadella is one of the cured meats that best lends itself to being used on pizza, provided you do not dampen its elegant and delicious character at the same time. Also in this case, therefore, it is better to proceed with combinations that are not in contrast but in correspondence and it is better to add the slices once the pizza has been taken out of the oven. Burrata, stracciatella, pistachios: these are among the best combinations, not only because of the gentle tones, but also, in the case of pistachios, because of the crunchiness that plays with the roundness of the meat and cheeses.

use it preferably on white pizzas, perhaps reproducing the classic combination of the dish with rocket and Parmesan on white pizzas or in combination with taleggio.

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Dedicated to lovers of spicy flavours: born to recover processing waste, it has now become an identifying product of Calabria. It can be cooked, and in this case its creamy consistency, in paste, will become even softer, or added after cooking, in small doses. Unmissable combinations with olives and ricotta, also to give vivacity of colours to the dough base.

Capocollo

It is obtained from the muscle band of the pig between the head and the vertebrae. Added to the pizza just taken out of the oven, it releases the aroma and seasoning aromas. It is worth trying the one from Calabria, with the PDO brand: on the outside it has a more or less intense pink or red colour (due to the presence of black pepper or chilli pepper) while when cut it has a bright pink colour with streaks of fat. Delicate on the palate, it has a perfume of the right intensity. The combination with fresh cheeses (stracciatella) and vegetables (artichokes), manages to enhance it to the fullest.

Ciauscolo

Excellence from the Marche region, its strong point is the spreadability of the paste. It is obtained from the double grinding of fine cuts of pork such as bacon, shoulder and ham and loin trimmings. The "slices" are homogeneous, of a uniform pinkish-red colour. The scent is delicate, typical and spicy with a savoury and flavourful taste. Combined with delicate cheeses and vegetables, and by adding it when it comes out of the oven, it manages to give its best.

Porchetta

Porchetta could not be missing from this list. The emblem of Roman cuisine is, of course, from Ariccia. It is characterised by a crunchy crust (even after several days of cooking), under which white-pink coloured meat is interspersed with the colour of spices. Unmistakable to the taste due to the presence of rosemary, garlic and black pepper, it has been skilfully enhanced by the "Roman school". Sliced, combined with vegetables, potatoes and/or cheeses, it is absolutely delicious.