CITY: A PHOTOGRAPHY RETROSPECTIVE

CITY A

P h o t o g r ap h y

R e t r o s p e c t i v e

Vol. I

On the cover: Cover of the Summer 2002 issue Photography: Alexander Deutsch Styling: Michael Conti Makeup: Gianpaolo Ceciliato for Judy Casey Hair: Hallie Bowman Model: Luciana Curtis at Ford

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e

featuring photography by Bela Borsodi Anthony Cotsifas Alexander Deutsch Dwight Eschliman Torkil Gudnason Patricia Heal Matt Hoyle Anne Menke Thomas Rusch Martyn Thompson Horacio Salinas Sarah Silver Daniela Stallinger Phillip Toledano Kenji Toma Andrew Zuckerman

Vol. I

Let’s do shots!

So how do you launch a magazine in the always-overcrowded publishing world? Start by sticking its office above a bar.

That was publisher John McDonald’s first smart move when he launched a local lifestyle magazine called CITYNY back in 1998. Five years earlier, John and I had met for the first time when he was preparing to open the MercBar on Mercer Street in New York’s thenseedy SoHo neighborhood. When things went awry with his first construction team, I stepped in to help get the work completed and the bar open. The rustic space, with its wood paneling and hanging canoes, was an instant hit, finally giving stylish New Yorkers a reason to cab it downtown to a neighborhood that at the time was only a haven for artists living and working in couple-hundred-bucks-a-month lofts.

Since it was the MercBar clientele— fashionable jet setters with a passion for the good city life—that John wanted to target with his new magazine, it was a no-brainer that we clear a space above the bar for our office. After all, what magazine staff wouldn’t want to finish a long day of photo shoots and editing with a cold drink, all the while taking the pulse of the very people we wanted picking up our magazine?

Our second smart decision was to

embrace photography as our primary means of narrative. Maybe it was my own penchant for the visual media or perhaps it was our boredom with the rest of the style industry’s runof-the-mill approach to photography: Get a pretty girl, stick her in a pretty dress, and throw her in front of a white seamless background. CLICK! Whatever the reason, when John appointed me creative director after the first few issues, he was generous enough to give me carte blanche in tackling CITY’s imagery from a distinctive pointof-view. The prime directive—and philosophy—that I tried to ingrain into the minds of both the staff and our photographers was, “What’s the wink?”

By wink, I meant something slightly irreverent or clever; something that was not always immediately noticeable to the reader, some takeaway beyond the price of a piece of fashion. Often it was a hidden meaning, a little sly humor, or an outright commentary on a current trend. It’s the stuff that as you were flipping through the magazine made you turn the page back and think “Oh no they didn’t!”

Something I learned early on about being a creative director, and which I’ve used to my complete advantage over the years, was that micro-managing the works of others would often backfire and yield poor results. I knew that photographers came to CITY because they needed a creative outlet unavailable to them elsewhere in the publishing

or advertising worlds. They often approached us with a specific idea in mind that no one else would touch— either it didn’t fit the other magazines’ standard molds or they just couldn’t see the inherent potential. Part of the CITY magic was to let our photographers pursue those ideas; to just back off a bit and let others do their thing. Of course, other photographers came to love the special collaborative process possible when working with a fun, nimble team like CITY. I can’t tell you how many hours were spent brainstorming story ideas in my little office, downstairs at the bar, or across the street at Canteen and Lure, John’s successive restaurants at the corner of Mercer and Prince.

Flip through these pages and you’ll see just how many great stories—and top industry awards—those spitballing sessions yielded.

Ultimately, the incredible diversity of the photography that ended up within the pages of the first 50 issues or so of CITY was the result of working with both established photographers and emerging shutterbugs. The new talent, in particular, always brought a fresh eye that didn’t know it could fail, which was always something special.

I remember on several occasions a stylist coming into my office and pitching me an idea that he or she wanted to do with a photographer friend who had never actually shot a fashion story before. After a follow-up meeting with the aspiring lensman—

not to mention a long, deep breath and a few words of wisdom—the story was usually a go, something that is rarely if ever the case at other publications.

The rationale was that without a little risk thrown into the formula, it would be impossible to discover new talent.

We’re proud to say that we’ve launched quite a few careers at CITY, and it was perhaps most rewarding when one of those young guns came back to us several years later, tired of more bland assignments elsewhere and eager to play in the CITY sandbox again.

The book you now hold is a collection of just some of our favorite stories throughout the years. (There are enough to fill several volumes, which we’ve already begun.) Here, you’ll find fashion shoots, still-life studies, vibrant beauty close-ups, even some sultry balloon-character models sporting the hottest trends. Look closer, though, and you’ll discover nearly a decade’s worth of passion and creativity from CITY’s countless friends and staffers— a body of work that neither John nor I could ever have anticipated when we dreamed up this magazine in an office above a bar.

Cheers,

Fabrice G. Frere, CITY creative director, 1999-2008

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 5

White Heat Less is more. Horacio Salinas’s still-life photography is a study in simplicity, with stunning results. “White Heat” won the Photo Portfolio “Ellie” at the 2007 National Magazine Awards, beating out Vogue (Annie Leibovitz), W (Bruce Weber), Details (Michael Thompson), and CITY’s second nominee in the category, “Penitentiary” (Kenji Toma, page 47). Filmmaker John Waters perhaps summed up the story best when presenting CITY with the Ellie: “In ‘White Heat,’ Horacio Salinas plays with the very idea of what a fashion shoot can be. A series of clever contrasts—black and white, industrial and delicate, iconic and ethereal—turn a few items of clothing into a simple, graceful, and fully realized artistic vision.”

Photography: Horacio Salinas Fashion Styling: Beverley Hyde Prop Styling: Molly Findlay Winner, Photo Portfolio, American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME) (2007) Gold Medal, Photo – Spread, Society of Publication Designers (SPD) (2007) Merit Award, Photo – Spread/Single Page, SPD (2007)

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photography by horacio salinas styling by beverley hyde prop styling by molly findlay

Sea Things Each of CITY’s photographers bring their own unique styles to the pages of our magazine, and none have been as irreverent or in-your-face as Alexander Deutsch.

Maybe that’s why Alex has shot a record nine CITY covers, almost all of which featuring his signature beauty shots, one more striking than the next. The “Crab Cover,” which graced the front of the 2002 Summer issue (not to mention this book) is one of CITY’s most iconic and shocking covers, and the accompanying story inside, “Sea Things,” doesn’t relent.

Photography: Alexander Deutsch Styling: Michael Conti Makeup: Gianpaolo Ceciliato for Judy Casey Hair: Hallie Bowman Nails: Olga Titova for Judy Casey Model: Luciana Curtis for Ford

Silver Medal Award, Beauty Photography, SPD (2003)

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sea things Photography by Alexander Deutsch

Exhibitionist When Phillip Toledano pitched us a concept a fur fashion story involving animals, we were a little wary of the inevitable production headaches, not to mention the cost. “Not a problem, Squire!” Phil said. “We’ll shoot it at the Museum of Natural History.” That’s when we really started to worry. This was Phil’s first fashion story ever. Well done Squire!

Photography: Phillip Toledano Fashion Styling: Wayne Gross Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Makeup: Greg Vaughan at L’Atelier NYC Hair: Gerardo DeMaio at Cutler Model: Cookie at Elite

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2006)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 29

EXHIBITIONIST Photography by Phillip Toledano Styling by wayne gross

Fruit Punch This women’s accessories fashion shoot was based on a (sick) dream of Fab’s (don’t ask!). It was of course just ripe for a summer “food” issue, though lugging those watermelons was no easy task. The cover, featuring the shattered watermelon shot, sported an appropriate single-word coverline: “ouch!”

Photography: Torkil Gudnason Fashion Styling: Wayne Gross Prop Styling: Martin Bourne at Judy Casey Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Manicures and body makeup: Olya Titova at Judy Casey Hair: Thomas McKiver at ArtistsbyTimothyPriano.com Models: Jackie Mumm at Parts; Christina Ambers at Arcieri

Winner, Photography (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Finalist, Design (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 39

Photography by torkil gudnason Styling by wayne gross

Penitentiary Novelty “floaty pens” are as ubiquitous and generic as the tourist gift shops that sell them, but some of the sexier examples are considerably more, ahem, revealing.

The discovery of a few such pens in a desk drawer in the CITY office inspired this women’s lingerie story. With ace photographer and longtime CITY friend Kenji Toma, we created a narrative in which a man doing time in prison fosters a bizarre obsession with these pens. “Penitentiary,” which was nominated for the 2007 National Magazine Award for Photo Portfolio (it lost to CITY’s own “White Heat,” page 7), pays remarkable attention to detail—look closely for not just the beautiful ladies in their skivvies, but also the prisoner’s other personal belongings, which perhaps reveal his true character (and chance at parole).

Photography: Kenji Toma Prop Styling: Terry Lewis Fashion Styling: Georgia Alexandra Davis Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Makeup: Shawnelle Prestidge Hair: Michael Kanyon Models: Gina DiMasi Christine Mott at Fusion Models Meghan Kleinhans and Kelly Briter, both at New York Models

Finalist, Photo Portfolio, ASME (2007) Merit Award, Photo – Story, SPD (2007) Merit Award, Photo – Spread, SPD (2007)

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Who Loves The Sun? A brainstorming session between photographer Martyn Thompson and creative director Fabrice Frere sidetracked one afternoon into a discussion about their all-time favorite music tracks. After a round robin of Blondie tunes, Fab suggested a song by the Velvet Undergound, “Who Loves the Sun.” Sure enough, Martyn came back a week later with a striking visual interpretation of the song, dedicated to anyone who’s ever been a tad heartbroken…

Photography: Martyn Thompson Styling: Molly Findlay Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Model: Mark Doering at Ford Original lyrics: Lou Reed

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2006)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 57

who loves the sun? by martyn thompson and molly findlay

Who cares that it makes owers?

‌ since you broke my heart.

Not everyone ‌

‌ not everyone.

Inflated Egos Photographer Bela Borsodi is a master at creating delightful, lifelike characters out of the most static of objects. In “Inflated Egos,” luxury accessories like shoes, belts, and handbags transform, with the help of some expertly configured balloons, into the season’s hottest models. This was our first story with Bela, and it was extraordinary to watch his gears churn when we presented him with our final fashion selections—we knew instantly that this native Austrian was part creative genius, part mad scientist. Incidentally, Charlene and Elvira found themselves on CITY’s first-ever split cover, becoming perhaps the first balloon-character cover models in fashion magazine history.

Photography: Bela Borsodi Fashion Editor: Wayne Gross

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2006)

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Primary Colors This fashion shoot was not the result of countless hours fiddling with Photoshop, but rather the construction and painting of three entire sets over a (very) long weekend. A peculiar, and enlightening, aspect of the pre-production process: We witnessed people’s mood on the set change dramatically depending on what color they were painting. While those in the yellow room were whistling, the redroom painters got getting crankier by the minute. The blue room was peaceful.

Anyway, don’t try this at home.

Photography: Patricia Heal Fashion Styling: Beverley Hyde Prop Styling: David Asher Hair: Peter Lennon Makeup: Elie Malouf Models: Eva Sno at Q Management Alton at McDonalds + Richards Elodie at Karin Cindy Joseph at Ford Photography assistants: Mike Montoni and Erik Engstrom Prop stylist’s assistants: Marcia Ames and Paul Sweet Special thanks: Russell Gera

Winner, Photography (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Finalist, Design (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 77

P hoto gr a p h y b y Patr i c i a H e a l st ylin g b y b e v e r l e y h y d e P ro p sty l i n g b y d av i d a s h e r

Please Do Not Touch When it comes to borrowing expensive jewelry for a photo shoot, you wouldn’t believe the hoops we often have to jump through to get a necklace or pair of earrings into a shot. Nothing compared, however, to securing the rights to the masterpieces that photographer Kenji Toma proceeded to, well, destroy in “Please Do Not Touch.” The process only reinforced the story’s commentary on the inaccessibility of some “priceless” art.

Photography: Kenji Toma Prop Styling: Jim Gratson Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Market Editor: Whitney Robinson

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 87

please do not touch

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENJI TOMA PROP STYLING BY JIM GRATSON

Satellite Of Love A trusted photographer will often bring us a story that we truly love but have absolutely no clue how to incorporate into the theme of our next issue. As we poured over Thomas Rusch’s vibrant beauty shots while preparing our Fall 2006 Travel Issue, we kept coming back to the fact that the photos looked remarkably (though unintentionally) like aerial satellite pictures of various corners of the planet.

To Google Earth we went. Punch in the exact longitude and latitude coordinates, and you’ll discover just how closely those lips and eyes look like the Maldives, the Great Salt Lake, and Mt. Krakatau.

Photography: Thomas Rusch Makeup: Loni Baur Merit Award, Photo – Story, SPD (2008)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 95

satellite of love photography by thomas rusch makeup by loni baur

You Are Here

Indian OCEAN

The Maldives (3째12'N,73째13'E)

Grand Canyon (36°6'N,113°14'W)

This page: Shiny twill suit, $650, by FORM; beaded pearl necklace, $575, by Noir; leather handbag with attached chain, $255, by Bless, at Opening Ceremony; "Sixty-Six" fishnet tights, $40, by Wolford; patentleather shoes, stylist’s own. Opposite: Choker with hair, sylist’s own; diva satin corset, $265,

by Agent Provocateur; wool gabardine pleated pants, special order only,

by Zaldy; patent-leather shoes, $655, by Jimmy Choo. Opening spread: Merino wool scoop tunic, $276, by Zero Maria Cornejo.

Great Salt Lake (41째0'N,112째25'W)

Vinson Massif, Antarctica (78째31'S,85째37'W)

Straits of Magellan (52째34'S,69째44'W)

Tierra Del Fuego, South America

Mt. Krakatau, Indonesia (6째6'S,105째25'E)

Mariana Trench, Pacific Ocean (11째21'N,142째12'E)

Stitch How do you interpret the theme of “fashion” without any models or wearable items of clothing? You go back to the very beginning, when Adam took a bite of the forbidden apple, forever changing the way we see ourselves and those around us.

Photography: Martyn Thompson Fashion Styling: Carin Scheve Photographer’s assistant: Hamish Fraser Prop stylist’s assistant: Danielle Felmlee

Winner, Photography (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Finalist, Design (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Merit Award, Still Life/Fashion Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2004) Merit Award, Design – Entire Issue, SPD (2004)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 105

by martyn thompson and carin scheve

in the beginning ‌

This page, model: Hamish. Hair by Rebekah Forecast at JGK. T-shirt from Lawanna’s, Brooklyn, New York. Opposite: Eiffel Tower from Chimera, New York City.

Wired For this accessory still-life story with photographer Patricia Heal, longtime CITY Fashion Editor Beverley Hyde borrowed her friend Angela Howard’s extensive collection of rare antique clothes hangers, to elegant effect.

Don’t show this one to Joan Crawford.

Photography: Patricia Heal Fashion and Prop Styling: Beverley Hyde All hangers from the “Big Angela” hanger collection

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Zero Gravity During several photo shoots with Phil Toledano, we kept noticing an antique Russian astronaut suit in his studio. “Phil, we have to do something with this suit,” we told him. A few weeks later we were shooting a fashion accessory story that today is eerily prescient with the new space tourism race.

For the part of the spaceman, we enlisted Larry Q, a longtime neighbor of Fab’s and the only person we could find that would fit the part—or at least into the suit.

Photography: Phillip Toledano Fashion Styling: Wayne Gross Prop styling: Ali Gallagher at Aartist Loft Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Production: Piera Gelardi Spaceman: Larry Q Dog model: Ralphie Special thanks: Meghan Folsom

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2006)

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILLIP TOLEDANO STYLING BY WAYNE GROSS

Icing On The Cake Market editor Whitney Robinson one day stumbled upon the website for “I Dream of Cake,” Shinmin Li’s amazing cake shop in San Francisco, and knew immediately there was a CITY story waiting to be baked. Along with traditional cakes, Li’s beautifully crafted confections are often inspired by haute couture. What better way to show off the season’s latest luxury handbag offerings than with a special collaboration with Li for our 2006 Food issue? With a tight deadline approaching, Li spent nearly two straight weeks on the project, working between three and five days on each cake. Dwight Eschliman shot her creations in San Francisco, while Sarah Silver photographed the accompanying fashion component in New York. We wanted one shot, however, with the model and cake integrated, so we asked Li to bring the silver Louis Vuitton bag with her on an upcoming trip to New York. Of course, when she got to San Francisco International Airport, Homeland Security insisted that she open the bag, not believing for a second that it was made entirely out of flour, sugar, and (inside) red velvet goodness. She finally convinced them, and after the shoot, we discovered how sweet (and delicious) a Vuitton can truly be.

Photography (fashion): Sarah Silver Photography (still life): Dwight Eschliman Fashion Styling: Aileen Marr Prop Styling: Nissa Quanstrom Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Cakes: Shinmin Li Production: Whitney Robinson Makeup: Walter Obal Hair: Elsa Model: Yana Verba at Elite Model Management

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FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY BY sarah silver cre ative director fabrice frere

•

•

STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY dwight Eschliman

FASHION STYLING BY Aileen Marr

CAKE BAGS BY shinmin li

•

•

PROP STYLING BY nissa quanstrom

produced by whitne y robinson

American Dream For this Fall Fashion story, sisters Anne Menke, a photographer, and Andrea Menke, a stylist, cast an eclectic mix of entertainers and creatives pursuing the “American Dream”: making successful careers out of their greatest passions. Musicians, actresses, dancers, and stylists, along with fashion designer Norma Komali, Preacher the dog, and even a very young, pre-“Grey’s Anatomy” Justin Chambers, all embraced the red, white, and blue.

Little did any of us know that the patriotic theme would ring especially true during the month the issue was on stands: September 2001.

Photography: Anne Menke Fashion Styling: Andrea Menke Makeup: Christina Reyna Hair: Brent for Lavett & Chin Apothecaries Set Styling: Chad Tucker Stylist’s assistant: Allison Miller Models: Antony Ellis, Greg Richardson, Brad Gunyon, Norma Kamali, Frederick Parnell, Jocelyne Beaudoin, John Forte, India Waters, Justin Chambers, Preacher the dog.

Finalist, General Excellence (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2002) Merit Award, Design – Entire Issue, SPD (2002)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 143

Ph oto graphy by Anne Me nke Sty l eD b y And re a Menke

Scentsless Kenji Toma and Fab realized one day they had a strange fetish in common: breaking glass. And even more so if it smells nice, too.

Photography: Kenji Toma Styling: Sara Wacksman Winner, Photography (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Finalist, Design (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Merit Award, Still Life/Fashion Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2004) Merit Award, Design – Entire Issue, SPD (2004)

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photography by kenji toma Prop styling by Sara Wacksman

Cool Chick Ahhhh, Spring. Rebirth and renewal.

Photography: Alexander Deutsch Makeup: Shawnelle Prestidge at CMP Hair: Hallie Bowen Models: Yske and Ana Mihajlovic, both at Elite

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cool chick

Photography by alexander Deutsch

Paper Cuts This was one of those last-minute stories conceived and produced four days before the issue needed to ship to the printer. After toying with another concept for weeks, Phil and Fab finally admitted to each other over lunch that neither felt good about the direction of the shoot. By the end of the meal, the two had developed a completely new idea that would play with the perils of office life. The model was shot on a white background on the first day of production; those images were then printed, cut out, and re-shot in a space that a few years later could have served as the Scranton branch of Dunder Mifflin.

Photography: Phillip Toledano Fashion Styling: Wayne Gross Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Hair: Kozmo Fahringer at Filomeno for Kerastase Makeup: Christan Burran at L’Atelier NYC Model: Trilby at IMG Special thanks to Moss

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2005)

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Photogra phy by phil lip tole dan o

S t y l in g b y W a yne gross

Bubble Up As our back-page Icon column proves each issue, we’re suckers for trivia at CITY, and so occasionally we’ll add to an already eye-popping still-life shoot some equally tasty fun facts (“Full Metal Jacket,” page 317, is another example). Enjoy the fizz.

Photography: Patricia Heal Styling: Sara Wacksman Model: Aicha for Q Models Photographer’s assistant: Heather Hupalo

Merit Award, Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2005)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 183

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA HEAL PROP STYLING BY SARA WACKSMAN TEXT BY PAMELADEVI GOVINDA

FACT NO.

In a Yorkshire town in Northern England, FACT NO. FACT NO. Joseph Priestley, pastor as well as scientist, discovered carbonation in 1767 after he became fascinated with the natural bubbles created during the fermentation process at his brewery.

Early seltzers were said to be as healing as naturally sparkling spring water and every corner apothecary made its own artificially carbonated beverage.

Soft drinks, as we know them now, began to emerge in 1874 in the form of herbaceous-based fizzies produced by chemists attempting to create palatable ways to administer bitter-tasting medicines.

One of the oldest sodas in production, next to Dr. Pepper, is Moxie, a label that started in Maine. Made with the gentian herb, it was originally a non-carbonated nerve tonic, created by Dr. Augustin Thompson in 1876. Resembling syrup, Moxie was then taken by the spoonful until Dr. Thompson made a carbonated drink with the formula in 1884. The beverage became the local soda of choice and has consequently developed a huge cult following in New England. According to the Merriam Webster Dictionary, Moxie means “energy, pep, or courage and determination” — the term itself is derived from the drink.

FACT NO.

FACT NO.

Only a tiny sliver of today’s $60 billion-plus annual U.S. soda FACT NO. sales is made up of traditional sodas, with formulas similar to those created in the 19th century. Pop, a term first coined in 1861, was made with cane sugar until conglomerates like CocaCola, Pepsi, and Sprite incorporated cost-cutting cane syrup into their formulas in the 1960s. As well as using pricier sweeteners, old-fashioned sodas favor high quality natural ingredients like sarsaparilla in root beer, lemons and limes in Bubble UP (a drink that pre-dates 7 UP), and gentian root in Moxie.

Interestingly, most of the giant soda companies started off as medicinal drinks as well. Dr. John Pemberton, a pharmacist from Atlanta, Georgia, invented Coca-Cola in 1886. His original drink contained cocaine and kola nut. The cocaine has since been removed and Coca-Cola has morphed into something sweeter and more generic in taste.

FACT NO.

FACT NO.

FACT NO.

Pop may seem as American as baseball but old-fashioned sodas have won hearts and taste buds all over the world — think Orangina in France, Almdudler in Austria, and Sanbittèr in Italy.

Each country’s carbonated beverage has its own unique origins. Sanbittèr, for instance, came about in 1961, when it was known as Bitter Sanpellegrino. Pellegrino created it when they wanted to produce a non-alcoholic aperitivo — essentially a beverage to stimulate the appetite.

History has seen the soft drink grow from humble beginnings into a mammoth industry. Today, more than a billion CocaColas are consumed every 24 hours around the world. Call us nostalgic, but we’re foregoing the big boys this summer to indulge in the truly distinctive sodas of yesteryear; we like to believe the medicinal herbs, fruits, and barks still swimming in some pops pack in some health benefits along with the sugar.

Shelter Home is where the heart is. Or so they say. We asked Martyn Thompson to investigate where else we could find shelter. He did.

Photography: Martyn Thompson Styling: Carin Scheve Hair: Rebekah Forecast at JGK Models: Nina, Beau, and Adam Shane at Wanted Management “Ned Kelly� helmut by John Giura Special thanks to Tanya at Marek and Associates

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 191

shelter A photo essay by Martyn Thompson &Carin Scheve

Hardwear This jewelry editorial, shot by longtime contributor Anthony Cotsifas and styled by Beverley Hyde, pays homage to the works of Peter Keetman, the photographer who in 1953 spent a week at a Volkswagen factory in Wolfsburg, Germany, photographing gleaming stacks of hoods and fenders into works of abstract art.

Photography: Anthony Cotsifas Styling: Beverley Hyde

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Casting Whenever another big fashion story falls through last minute, it seems like it’s Phillip Toledano to the rescue. Here, we set out to produce a fashion editorial based on a romantic music video that our colleague, Hamish Robertson, shared with the entire team. The idea was to set up a fake casting call for auditions, using people found on Craigslist along with some of the CITY staff (Hamish included). Some of the “actors” thought that they were actually auditioning for a part, and got right into it: The expressions on their faces are as authentic as it gets.

Photography: Phillip Toledano Fashion Styling: Beverley Hyde Hair and makeup: Nickee David Models: Tom Forrest, Sarah Greenfield, Conor Hautaniemi, Joseph Fleming, Abdel Kachtiene, Pat Duggan, Sheri de Borchgrave, Andy Coughlan, Hamish Robertson

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 211

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILLIP TOLEDANO STYLING BY BEVERLEY HYDE

CHET - Why should we take more?

INT. HALLWAY - BABYSITTER SCREAMS

HANK - You see that guy, and that guy? I'll take 'em both on... and you!

CONRAD - You wanna help him? You wanna help him? You wanna betray him!

THE DON - Are you talkin' to me now?

SLATER - That's f--king bulls--t!

INT. JUNGLE - GORILLA ROARS

INT. COLOSSEUM - PONTIUS WAILS

Dinner Service Frozen dinner anyone?

Photography: Anthony Cotsifas Styling: Sara Wacksman

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 223

dinner service PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY COTSIFAS STYLING BY SARA WACKSMAN

Candy O Ahhh... the shoot (and props) that made the entire crew, but especially Fab, terribly ill, with bad cases of indigestion, sugar highs that lasted for days, and really bad crashes at the end. Heck, we’d never seen this much gummy candy in one place… candies of all types… never-ending candy….

Photography: Alexander Deutsch Makeup: Carmindy Boyer Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Hair and Co-art direction: Hallie Bowen Nails: Gina Viviano at Next Artists/Timothy Priano Models: Elena M. at Elite Amber Noelle Ehresmann at Women Management Hand model: Yanna at Parts

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 233

Candy

OO Photography by Alexander Deutsch

Twilight After the success of Horacio Salinas’ award-winning “White Heat” (page 7), we couldn’t wait to get him shooting for us again.

Given carte blanche, Horacio chose to pay homage to one of his favorite television shows as a kid, The Twilight Zone. Using jewelry, accessories, and fashion, each photograph recreates—with a twist—classic imagery from the show’s title sequence and most famous episodes. Most uncanny, however, is how closely Dana Dunham, who was Horacio’s assistant at the time, looks like Rod Serling. Horacio in fact admitted to us later that he only decided he wanted to do a Twilight Zone shoot after first noticing the resemblance. .

Photography: Horacio Salinas Styling: Amber Gordon Hair: Jutta at John Sahag Workshop Models: Dana Dunham, Christina Ambers at Parts Stylist’s assistant: Heather Smith

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 243

Twilight Photography by Horacio Salinas Styling by Amber Gordon

Road Show Inspired by characters from some of their favorite iconic Westerns— Heaven’s Gate, Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, and Dead Man among them—but unable to shoot out West, photographer Daniela Stallinger and stylist Andrea Menke searched high and low for a passable location in New York. Naturally, they ended up on a rooftop. Don’t get Daniela started on getting the goat up there.

Photography: Daniela Stallinger Fashion Styling: Andrea Menke Makeup: Christina Reyna Hair: William Williams at Bernstein & Andriulli Prop Styling: Ryan Bourquin Production: Scott Pratt for QAS Productions Photography Assistants: Margo Katz and Amber Clark Styling Assistant: Shedo Ollek Production Assistant: Miles Michael Models: Melissa Kinsey at Supreme Models, Moses, Elinor Giobbi, Rudy Steinhauser at Fusion Management, Autum Hyle at Supreme Model Management, Mark Greenfield, Robert Fisher, Line Gost at 1 Management

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Styling by andrea menke Photography by DANIELA StalLinger

Some movie personalities are too colorful to leave on the silver screen. Our vignettes are inspired by memorable characters from iconic Western films.

Natural Beauty Hasn’t food gotten really expensive lately?

Photography: Anthony Cotsifas Styling: Beverley Hyde

Merit Award, Still Life Photography – Entire Story, SPD (2003)

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natural beauty Photography by Anthony Cotsifas Styling by Beverley Hyde

Priced To Sell Phil Toledano loves to shoot with real people in their natural environments— his latest personal project involves shooting phone sex operators in their own homes. Even though other magazines showed little interest in his idea to shoot a men’s fashion story in a car dealership, using the actual car salesmen as models, it was an easy sell for us.

Photography: Phillip Toledano Fashion Styling: Beverley Hyde Grooming: Marina Andersson at iGroup Location: USA Auto Park, 53-21 Northern Boulevard, Woodside, N.Y. Special thanks to Meltom Gonzales and AKA Locations

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 273

priced to sell

Photography by philLIP toledano Styling by beverley hyde

Branded In a world of style dominated by an ever-growing number of “luxury brands,” it was only fitting to pay homage to—and send up—their ubiquity. After the issue hit stands with the Jackie O. shot both inside and on the cover, some readers pointed out that the wig on the girl facing the wall was crooked, perhaps not realizing that she was a Jackie wannabe.

Photographer: Martyn Thompson Fashion Styling: Sean Spellman Set Design: Jocelyne Boudoin Makeup: Hagen Linss at Mario Badescu Hair: Luke Baker at L’Atelier Model: John Paul Pfeiffar at Click Models

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTYN THOMPSON STYLING BY SEAN SPELLMAN SET DESIGN BY JOCELYNE BOUDOIN

Not Guilty Sidney Lumet’s 1957 film 12 Angry Men is an American cinema classic and the inspiration for this men’s fashion editorial. Not wanting to cast “pretty boy” models as the jurors, we lucked out when we discovered that the Roundabout Theatre Company was about to take its acclaimed recent Broadway staging on the road. After a few calls, we secured the ultimate cast—all 12 title actors—just before their tour begin. These stage pros spent the entire shoot actually rehearsing their lines, turning our small photo studio into a 1950s jury room. Photographer Matt Hoyle brought an amazing point of view and texture to the shoot. (Note: If you haven’t seen the movie or the play, you owe it to yourself to rent it or catch the theatrical version the next time it comes to town.)

Photography: Matt Hoyle Fashion Editor: Beverley Hyde Fashion Styling: Leilin Lopez Creative Director: Fabrice Frere Hair and makeup: Stacy St. Onge; Elsa @ UtopiaNYC Special thanks to Jessica Johnson and the Roundabout Theatre Company Starring: Juror 1: Mike Boland; Juror 2: Todd Cerveris; Juror 3: Julian Gamble; Juror 4: Jeffrey Hayenga; Juror 5: Thomas Gebbia; Juror 6: Charles Borland; Juror 7: Mark Morettini; Juror 8: Richard Thomas; Juror 9: Alan Mandell; Juror 10: Kevin Dobson; Juror 11: David Lively; Juror 12: Tony Ward.

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The tour in

g cast of the Roun Compan dabout T y’s 12 An heatre gry Men suits up.

PHOTOGRAPHY: MATT HOYLE creative director: Fabrice frere Fashion Director: beverley hyde STYLING: LEILIN LOPEZ

This page: Di Modolo amber, gold, and diamond ring, $4,950. Opposite: BVLGARI Parentesi openwork diamond necklace, $31,500.

Insects courtesy God of Insects. For store locations, go to Where to Buy It, page 126.

While You Were Out “Inflated Egos” (page 69) was such a hit, we asked photographer Bela Borsodi to create another story, this time for our end-of-year Luxury issue. The result: a hilarious look at what your fashion accessories are actually up to when you’re out of the house, which apparently means living it up in true Boogie Nights fashion.

Photography: Bela Borsodi Fashion Editor: Wayne Gross

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photography by Bela Borsodi fashion editor Wayne Gross

while you were out

Full Metal Jacket The foils of war: Hershey’s stopped production of their chocolate Kisses from 1942–1949 due to silver rationing during World War II. Good thing it didn’t last longer than that, or we would’ve been deprived of this sweet story.

Photography: Andrew Zuckerman Food Styling: Alison Attenborough Additional Styling: Beverley Hyde

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full

jacket

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW ZUCKERMAN FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH

FACT NO. 3 Pigs in a Blanket—The ham sandwich is the most popular sandwich in the U.S., with the BLT coming in second.

Lunchbox Nation—Americans eat 300 million sandwiches every day. That’s more than one hoagie, grinder, or sub for every American.

King of Crust—Peter Dowdeswell set a Guinness world record by eating 40 6” x 3” butter and jam sandwiches in 17 minutes, 53.9 seconds in 1977.

01.

02.

facts: (opposite page)

facts: (this page)

The Foils of War: Hershey’s stopped production of their chocolate

Pigs in a Blanket: The ham sandwich on white bread is the most

Kisses from 1942–1949 due to silver rationing during World War II.

popular sandwich in the U.S. The BLT comes in second.

That’s a Wrap: Alan Crossland’s 1926 epic Don Juan holds the record

Lunchbox Nation: Americans eat 300 million sandwiches every day.

for the most onscreen kisses at 127 (the movie is 117 minutes long).

That’s more than one hoagie or ham and cheese for every American.

Choc and Roll: Gene Simmons, reptilian bassist for the rock band

King of Crust: Peter Dowdeswell set a world record by eating 40 6" x

KISS, claims that chocolate is his only “dangerous” addiction.

3" butter and jam sandwiches in 17 minutes, 53.9 seconds in 1977.

03.

04.

facts:

facts:

(opposite page)

(this page)

Little Debbie: Debbie Weiner at Sugar Sweet Sunshine Bakery in New

American Cheese: On average, most Americans eat more than a half-

York City says her most popular cupcake is vanilla with pink frosting.

pound of cheese, roughly 11 Kraft Singles, every week.

Color Coordinating: Customers tell Debbie that her pink frosting is

Cash Cow: The term “big cheese,” someone with deep pockets,

strawberry flavored, that blue tastes of blueberry, and so on. Actually,

originally referred to those wealthy enough to purchase an entire

all the frostings have the same flavor—sugar.

wheel of cheese—a real high roller.

Measure for Measure: Cupcakes were not so named because they

Well Aged: Archeologists believe that they have found the crusty

were baked in cups, but because their ingredients are measured in

remains of what appears to be cheese in an Egyptian tomb sealed

cups. Baking by volume—an innovation for sugar fiends everywhere.

thousands of years ago.

05. facts:

(this page)

Northern Exposure: Ninety percent of all fish captured for consumption is harvested in the Northern Hemisphere.

On a Global Scale: Per capita, China consumes three times as much fish as the United States. The average Chinese citizen eats over 45 pounds of seafood every year.

Hare-Brained: In the Middle Ages, French monks considered rabbit a variety of fish and would eat it when abstaining from meat.

06. facts:

(opposite page)

Chew On This: The first consumer product to come packaged with a barcode was Wrigley’s gum.

World War Chew: During World War II, American soldiers carried chewing gum with them to the battlefields of Europe, Africa, and Asia, adding to its global popularity.

Sticky Situation: 560,000 tons of chewing gum are sold worldwide each year (that’s 374 trillion individual sticks).

Ripe We’re sometimes asked if we intended any sexual innuendo for particular stories.

We usually respond with incredulity: “You see sexual innuendo in that story?”

Photography: Alexander Deutsch Makeup: Yuki Wada Hair: Matthew Williams at The Agency Model: Desi Pavlova at Elite

Winner, Photography (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004) Finalist, Design (part of three issues submitted), ASME (2004)

CITY A P h o t o g r ap h y R e t r o s p e c t iv e 325

Makeup by Yuki Wada

R pe

Photography by Alexander Deutsch

i

CITY One part concierge, one part tastemaker, CITY magazine is your destination for style.

Serving up the staple diet of the savvy urbanite—fashion, food, design, and travel—CITY is an insider’s guide to cosmopolitan life. In culturally charged communities where the choices are infinite, CITY tailors a custom-fit lifestyle.

PlanetFab is a creative agency founded by Fabrice G. Frere, longtime creative director of CITY magazine. With a strong foundation in print, the company applies its innovative talents to conceptualize and produce memorable print graphic solutions for editorial, catalogue, advertising, and lifestyle marketing materials.

Blurb is a company and a community that believes passionately in the joy of books – reading them, making them, sharing them, and selling them.

This creative publishing service is simple and smart enough to make anyone an author – every blogger, cook, photographer, parent, traveler, poet, pet owner, marketer, everyone. (This means you.)

www.city-magazine.com

www.planetfab.com

www.blurb.com

Book design by PlanetFab Text by Fabrice Frere and Alex Garinger

© 2008 PlanetFab LLC Photographs used with permission of the photographers.

All photographs and images are property of the their respective owners.

All rights reserved. No part of this book, in whole or in part, may be reproduced in any manner in any media, or transmitted by any means whatsoever, electronic or mechanical (including photocopy, film or video recording, Internet posting, or any other information storage and retrieval system), without the prior written permission of the publisher. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringements of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to insure that the credits accurately comply with information supplied.

Published in the United States by PlanetFab LLC. 321 East 43rd Street, suite 1B, NY, NY, 10017.

Telephone: 212-490-5838 e-mail: info@planetfab.com First Edition, 2008 Printing and binding by Blurb.com Printed in the United States of America

Special Thanks A big, giant, special thanks to Bela Borsodi, Anthony Cotsifas, Alexander Deutsch, Dwight Eschliman, Torkil Gudnason, Patricia Heal, Matt Hoyle, Anne Menke, Thomas Rusch, Martyn Thompson, Horacio Salinas, Sarah Silver, Daniela Stallinger, Phillip Toledano, Kenji Toma, and Andrew Zuckerman for contributing their images to this project.

This book is fondly dedicated to YOU. These stories were made possible with the dedication of the art, fashion, and photo team at CITY: Adriana Jacoud, Beverley Hyde, Wayne Gross, Piera Gelardi, Anthony Cross, Danielle Stingu, Sarah Greenfield And a thank you to to all the wonderful people who took part in one way or another, always making the impossible happen, with their generosity, attention, and insight.

It made all the difference.

John McDonald, Joseph T. McDonald, Kathryn McDonald, Mariana Ochs, Christene Barberich, Alex Garinger, Sophie Donelson, Amanda Lam, Helen Pippins, Hamish Robertson, John Fred Bogert, Conor Hautaniemi, Whitney Robinson, Gabriel Bell, Leilin Lopez, Steven McLoughlin, Ann Jhun, Anthony A. LoPresti, Michelle Keller, Abdel Kachtiene, David Tyda, Richard Phillips, Renee Lucas, Alexander Wolf, Emily Gunsberger, Brian Vrabel, Quyenzi Pham, Kelley McMillan, Bora Park, Tené Closson-Prager, Bill “flava” Gibson, Andi Teran, Philippe von Borries, Greg Lindsay, Julia Rothman, Mari at Kenji’s studio, Martin Bourne, Stéphane Dehais, Van Peele, Sara Wacksman, Anna Grossman, Heather Hupalo, Mia McDonald, Josh Capon, Josh Pickard, Josh Taekman, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Dan Del Vecchio, Greg Brainin, Murray Moss and Franklin Getchell, Lori Shabtai, David Inglish, Bill Powers, Steven Mark Klein, JP Cajuste, Tina Liadis, the boys from Lone Panther, Fabrice Penot, Edouard Roschi, Jason Bellmont, Colin Rasor, Robert Altemus, Lyn Altemus, Eric Dorfman, Torrey Acri, Anne Yackee, Leslie Stevens, Alexandra Castro, Clement Collado, Dianne Mackley, Robert Collins, Tom Forrest, Gina “Martini” De Masi, Matt Dino, everyone at the MercBar and Lure, Dr. Barry Cohen, Reid Mihalko, Ernesto Vega, Matthew Goldberg, Semmy (Ca Va?) and the boys at the Mercer, Peter Cassell, Christine Cummings, Meghan Bird, Susan Henry, Peter Burke, Donald Sevier, Tchiam, Imelda Malijan, Kristen Wolfe Bieler, Keith Allison, Nic Dembling, Zohra Atash, Jen Cho, Amy Prince, Pilar Guzman, Troy Halterman, Karen Robinovitz, Victoria Spencer, Franckie Diago, David Renard, Rose Sullivan, Glen Seaman, Charles Squires, Erin Bremer, Hilary Burns-LaRiche, Maniezheh Firouzi, Jamila Galloway, Catherine Adcock, Joy Merrifield, Lauren West, Mari Tzikas, Claire Sullivan, Luciana Cruz, Isabel Castro, Margaret Ward, Eddie Brannan, Julie Ragolia, Rachel Bergman, Jessica Rothstein, Skye Sullivan, Gabrielle Nancarrow, Meaghan Kelly, Ehab Ammar, Daniela Sloninsky, Jordan Hruska, Erik Engstrom, Christine Tate, Melissa Culpepper, Melissa Oring, Meredith Melnick, Amanda Altman, Reshma Siddik, Hannah Zhao, Mandy Ruggeri, Aiko Ishikawa, Christine Lemmonds, Julie Miles, Casie Wexler, Mari Angela, and all the writers, photographers, and other contributors over the years.

For store locations, go to Where to Buy It in Volume II.

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1998

2008