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It features a latest-generation mechanism but draws inspiration from the stylistic codes of the early 20th century in a perfect reflection of the brand’s past. The Chronographe 1887, automatic or manual, narrates the story of a journey into Eberhard & Co’s history
by Diego Tamone - ph. courtesy by Eberhard & Co
The sea has always played a part in the brand’s story - a small role, granted, but taking on greater significance in the 1930s, when the brand’s client list included the Italian Navy, and the following decade, when an Eberhard & Co chronograph took part in one of the many adventures of World War 2, worn on the wrist of Mario Rossetto, captain of the transport submarine Finzi. This timepiece proved to be a vital instrument for measuring the rhythms of life beneath the sea, enabling submariners to calculate, for example, their position in mid-ocean. This crucial function
Opposite page, the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée by Eberhard & Co. in the version with semiopaque black dial and blue spiral tachymetric scale in the centre. To side, the back view reveals the hand-wound movement with the shield-shape upper bridge over the chrono mechanism
Top, from left, the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée with semi-opaque eggshell white dial; two models in the self-winding Chronographe 1887 Automatique version, also with chronograph movement with column wheel and flyback function. Below, also with blue clous de Paris dial and Roman numerals
made it possible for the vessel to rendezvous with other submarines like the legendary Da Vinci, which completed eleven war patrols. During this exciting time of daring exploits and technical advance, Eberhard & Co, an illustrious Swiss brand, enthusiastically adopted a pioneering approach, being especially attracted by anything powered by an engine, be it a car, aircraft or yacht. This was the period when the chronograph, a watch with special functions for measuring short periods of time, took shape in the Swiss factory. Its character was defined, and with it came the creation of an aesthetic that would become the unique, distinctive element that made it immediately recognisable. This unmistakable layout is formed by the partial superimposition of the two counters and a spiral tachymetric scale in the centre of the dial (the telemetric scale is around the perimeter), presented this year by the brand in a dual edition of the Chronographe 1887, an automatic version and a limited edition manual version in a run of 250 examples. These two mechanisms were developed exclusively for the brand by Manufacture AMT and feature column wheel and flyback function, plus a special return lever designed to enable the reset pusher to be located centrally, co-axially with the winding crown.
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