Gems that recall a timeless fabric

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[ JEWELS ]

GEMS THAT RECALL A TIMELESS FABRIC Chanel translates Mademoiselle Coco’s love of tweed into exquisite high jewellery. A successful collection that returns in 2023 with a new line of 63 creations

by Gianfilippo Versari - ph. courtesy by Chanel High Jewellery

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love affair amid the spectacular landscapes of the Scottish Highlands became the inspiration behind Chanel’s iconic tweed jacket, now making a return for the second time as a stunning high jewellery collection. A hallmark of the brand, the collection

marks the first time the house has dedicated an entire line to tweed, a signature element present in countless collections throughout the years. Coco Chanel, an iconic figure in the fashion world, revolutionized women’s style, leaving an indelible mark on the collective imagination with her distinctive jewellery choices. Embracing the motto “I want to be part of what’s happening,” she was the first Parisian couturier to incorporate costume jewellery in her shows, breaking convention and avoiding ostentatious displays of wealth. Despite her androgynous fashion sense, she also designed significant pieces of high jewellery, often adorned with beautifully cut diamonds.

Chanel’s history with tweed dates to the 1920s when “Coco” is said to have borrowed tweed jackets from her then-lover, the Duke of Westminster. She reimagined the warm, woolen fabric, which was originally woven into various patterns by the Scots, and seamlessly integrated it into her collections. It eventually became an essential element of her wardrobe. As a trailblazer, she introduced tweed borrowed from menswear and adapted it to create women’s fashion that catered to active, modern lifestyles.

In 2020, Chanel’s Director of Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, Patrice Leguéreau, translated Gabrielle Chanel’s love for tweed into a remarkable high jewellery collection featuring 45 pieces.

The success of this collection led to the continuation of this theme, with Leguéreau returning in 2023 with a new line of 63 creations, showcasing the sumptous craftsmanship of tweed.

“I wanted to go further in the interpretation by creating a fabric of precious stones that is light and supple”, says Patrice Leguéreau. “My dream was to create a tweed set with precious stones”.

Tweed resurfaces in its pure essence, imbued with a precious intricacy. It offers a display of artistic craftsmanship featuring intricate embroidery, delicate fringes and exquisite openwork. Its play of monochromatic and polychromatic nuances reproduces the fabric’s weave with an abundance of captivating details, conjuring an enchanting sense of movement. This timeless fabric returns in a sophisticated recreation of its precious allure.

Left-hand page: Tweed Royal necklace in yellow and white gold with diamonds and rubies. This page, clockwise: Tweed Royal earrings in yellow gold with diamonds and rubies; Tweed Ruban ring in white gold with diamonds; Tweed Lion brooch; Tweed Lion ring, and Tweed Icône Lion ring

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[ JEWELS ]

The collection features five distinct tweed weaves, each representing a different color and adorned with five iconic symbols cherished by Gabrielle Chanel - the white ribbon, the pink camellia, the comet on a blue background, the yellow sun and the lion highlighted with flashes of red.

Five chapters with each section dedicated to various types of jewellery, including plastrons, necklaces, sautoirs, bracelets, brooches, rings, and earrings. Leguéreau explains that each chapter embodies a unique spirit, density, and volume. For instance, the “Ribbon” section celebrates lightness and curves, using white materials like pearls, diamonds, and white gold. The “Camellia” section delves into a joyful world of rose-tinted sapphires and spinels. The “Star” section explores various shades of blue with onyx, sapphire and lapis lazuli, featuring small stars scattered throughout the tweed-like embroideries. The “Sun” section radiates opulence through bold pieces paved with gold and a multitude of yellow stones. Finally, the “Lion” section exudes This page, clockwise:

unparalleled power through red elements, creating a tweed of great richness and flamboyance.

Tweed Etoilé earrings

The jewellery pieces in the collection are masterfully crafted to showcase the full beauty of the

and ring in yellow gold,

gemstones. Utilizing minuscule hinges, rings, and articulations in gold and platinum threads, the

white gold, diamonds and

designers have given suppleness and texture to each creation. Along with the play of openwork

yellow sapphires; Tweed

the interweaving of gold, pearls, and precious stones recreates the fleecy, textured thickness of

Poudré ring; Tweed Icône

tweed while maintaining comfort and softness in the pieces.

Ruban ring in white gold,

Dazzling diamonds and precious stones take center stage in a show of outstanding quality. The

diamonds and cultured

masterly skills and know-how of the artisans at the Fine Jewelry Creation workshop further

pearls; Tweed Dentelle

elevate these designs, pushing the boundaries of creativity beyond conventional limits. Such

earrings and Tweed Icône

artistic freedom not only transcends fashion but also allows the Maison to pay homage to tweed

Etoile ring

through two high jewellery collections, enabling the brand to re-establish the fabric’s status as a truly exceptional, invaluable element in their remarkable creations. The result is a breathtaking collection that pays homage to the legacy of Coco Chanel and her love for tweed, elegantly blending fashion and jewellery into an extraordinary and mesmerizing gemstone fabric.

www.chanel.com

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This page, clockwise: Tweed Byzance earrings in yellow gold; Tweed Cambon necklace in yellow gold, white gold, diamonds, yellow diamonds and rock crystal. 1 brilliant-cut 3.19 ct diamond; Tweed Byzance brooch and Tweed Byzance ring

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