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I LIKE TO TURN THE UNUSUAL INTO
a pleasure for the palate
As someone who pushes the limits while respecting his ingredients, loves soups but creates dishes that are anything but traditional, chef Andrea Berton knows all about contradictions by Marta Bernasconi
A
ndrea Berton’s CV boasts a series of collaborations with illustrious figures in the world of international
cuisine, and this Friuli-born chef looks set to join their ranks. Awarded multiple Michelin stars during his sojourn at the Ristorante di Piazza della Scala in Milan, Berton soon developed a burning ambition to go it alone, and in 2013 he opened the Ristorante Berton. Its location in Milan’s hyper-modern Porta Nuova district was chosen with care. As the chef explains, “My restaurant reflects my personality. I was looking for a location with no connections to the past and the place I chose answers this requirement entirely”. Here he set up his headquarters, joined in 2016 by the Berton Al Lago on Lake Como. Surprisingly, Berton’s favourite dish is broth. “I’ve dedicated a menu to it - it features in all the dishes, either poured directly onto the food or served in a special glass”. The restaurant’s dishes were created in partnership with Puglian ceramicist Vincenzo del Monaco. “Our design is called Onda. I like clean, linear shapes, round, white plates, but I don’t always exclude more modern details. The secret to creating beautiful tableware is that the container must be comfortable and functional for the food you’re enjoying - it must give diners the most enjoyable experience possible”. The dish Andrea Berton recommends at The One Yacht
and Design is innovative and daring, just like the chef himself. He reveals he once cooked on board a wellequipped yacht, and found it great fun. According to
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We visit the Ristorante Berton in Milan’s futuristic Porta Nuova Business District Varesine. The mise en place features white dishes and objects with modern, linear lines, made by a Puglian ceramicist
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Berton, there’s no special on-board cuisine. “My job is also
pouch and finish drying in the oven for two hours at 60°.
to come up with new ideas - you shouldn’t impose limits”.
Finally, chop finely with a knife and place in a container. Now
His recipe is “Canestrelli with a liquorice cream, lobster roe,
for the queen scallops - the recipe calls for forty. They should
liquorice seeds and lemon”. To make enough to serve four, first
be cleaned and washed thoroughly to remove any sand, dried
prepare the liquorice mayonnaise - dissolve 0.8 g of powdered
on kitchen paper and seared in a pan with a thread of EVO oil.
liquorice in 50 g of reduced fumet then pour a thread of EVO
To serve, use the liquorice pouch to shape ten peaks on every
oil, emulsifying until the desired consistency is reached. The
plate, sprinkle with powdered roe and coriander and liquorice
mayonnaise is then allowed to rest in a bag and stored at +4°.
seeds. Finally, add the hot scallops. As an accompaniment the
For the powdered roe, vacuum cook 100 g of lobster roe at 100°
chef recommends a Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2005.
for five minutes, then cool in iced water. Open the vacuum
An unforgettable on-board meal!