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[ GOURMAND ]
RASMUS KOFOED
Learning from the Danes
It’s not just about design – there’s a new cuisine arriving from the north, promoted by an exceptional ambassador - Rasmus Kofoed, a chef who finds everything he needs in nature
by Marta Bernasconi - ph. Claes Bech-Poulsen
“I
think something wonderful can happen when you look around”. These words sum up the poetic spirit
of Rasmus Kofoed, the three Michelin starred chef in the
top few of all the rankings for top chefs around the world. Born in Denmark just over forty years ago, he honed his talents through a series of crucial professional experiences – it’s impossible to list them all, so we’ll just mention his first jobs in 5 star hotels, a period when still young at a 2 Michelin star restaurant in Belgium, winning three medals (bronze, silver and then gold) at the Bocuse d’Or and the three Michelin stars awarded to the restaurant where he is the creator and driving force, Geranium in Copenhagen. Experiences which, says the chef, “Helped me become what I am now”. Listening to a description of his way of cooking is a spellbinding experience – it’s easy to feel you are suddenly surrounded by woods, caressed by the rustling branches to the sound of boots sinking into the damp soil. “Where does my concept of cooking come from? My childhood, definitely. It was spent in close contact with nature, and has played a vital role. Then I arrived in this lovely place, with its garden, a wealth of nature, the ocean…it’s near the centre, too. In short, I looked around and tried to work out what I could do. I draw a lot of inspiration from the changing seasons, the effect they have on the landscape always gives me a new creative stimulus. Even a tree that has shed its leaves is a source of inspiration for me”. There is a close bond connecting Rasmus Kofoed to the natural world, and it
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Chef Rasmus Kofoed at work in the kitchen of his Geranium restaurant in Copenhagen. Personally-selected herbs and green produce are vital ingredients in his recipes, and are a symbol of his close links with nature
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[ GOURMAND ]
“Where does my concept of cooking come from? My childhood, definitely. It was spent in close contact with nature, and has played a vital role. Then I arrived in this lovely place, with its garden, a wealth of nature, the ocean... In short, I looked around and tried to work out what I could do.
Two dishes that build on the cornerstones of chef Kofoed’s cooking – the finest ingredients, extreme originality and creating beauty. From left, Wood Sorrel & Woodruff; Yellow Beets, Aromatic Seeds, Smoked Yoghurt & Söl
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never ceases to surprise and amaze him. The combination of his
landscape in Copenhagen, and chef Rasmus Kofoed would like
poetic creativity, ability, dedication and an intuitive grasp of his
to try preparing an on-board meal. “I’ve never prepared a dish
art that only great chefs possess have transformed Rasmus into
on board a yacht, it would be a fantastic challenge, as I love
a symbol of the new Nordic cuisine, always proud to find new
experimenting with ingredients and combinations. I always trust
ways of expressing and enhancing local ingredients. Geranium
my ideas, it makes me feel at ease wherever I am. My suggestion
restaurant is in the centre of the Danish capital, but his dishes
for an on-board meal? I’d go to the local market, then I’d choose
take his guests on a journey through a green world, a deeply
fish, of course, the freshest possible – I’m thinking for example
rural experience – visually, they seem like some kind of magic,
of scampi, cleaned and fried, served with a sauce based on herbs
complemented by a wonderfully tasteful table setting. “I like
and lemon, or maybe other local fish dressed with a sauce based
using local ceramics”, the chef explains. “I love colours, but as
on garlic, herbs and olive oil”. We don’t know when we’ll have
background for my dishes white is still the ideal choice. Basically,
the opportunity, but we’re more than ready for an on-board
I prefer a pure, simple presentation”. Water forms part of the
tasting by Rasmus Kofoed.