PMQ Pizza Magazine September 2020 by PMQ Pizza Magazine

PIZZA MAGAZINE T H E W O R L D ' S A U T H O R I T Y O N P I Z Z A | P M Q . C O M | P I Z Z AT V. C O M

SEPTEMBER 2020

Open for

Business! How to unlock your pizzeriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s full potential and come out on top when the chips are down PAGE 32

DELIVERY INNOVATIONS 40

THIRD-PARTY DELIVERY 48

CHEESE MELT CHARACTERISTICS 58

A DISTRIBUTION PARTNER YOU CAN RELY ON During the pandemic have you been lacking service or support from your broadline distributor? While many broadliners have cut back service and staff, Bellissimo Foods Company distributors are 100% committed to servicing the hardworking owner/operators that define our pizza industry. Bellissimo distributors are: n On the front lines of distribution n Never cut delivery days and ensure you have the products you need to stay in business n Expanding sales to customers affected by COVID-19 n The best source for thousands of quality Italian and Mediterranean imported/domestic products Visit BellissimoFoods.com to find a local Bellissimo distributor and discover the Bellissimo Foods difference in service and product knowledge.

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I BELIEVE PIZZA IS AN ART. I BELIEVE IN USING NOTHING BUT THE BEST INGREDIENTS. IF YOU WANT AN AVERAGE, RUN-OF-THE-MILL PIZZA I BELIEVE YOU KNOW WHERE YOU CAN GO. What’s your declaration of independence? Grande is championing operators who have an independent spirit and shared passion for excellence. By providing the finest all natural, authentic Italian cheeses, along with an unwavering commitment to quality, we’ll continue to advocate for independents and their love of the craft.

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FEATURED STORY CAN ROBOTS TAKE OVER MOST RESTAURANT JOBS? According to restaurant consulting firm Aaron Allen & Associates, 82% of all restaurant positions “could potentially be replaced with robots.” As the coronavirus pandemic continues to exact a heavy toll on restaurant profitability, the rationale for reducing human labor “is only becoming stronger,” the firm said. “And while we’re not saying that every foodservice worker will be replaced with robots—nor suggesting…that the human element of service be removed—there are a lot of jobs that are ripe for disruption in the industry.” P M Q . C O M / R ESTAU R AN T- AU TO M ATI O N

ALSO ON PMQ.COM

DOMINO’S HOPES TO SPREAD ITS WINGS WITH “GREATLY IMPROVED” FLAVOR

FORMER GODFATHER’S PIZZA CEO HERMAN CAIN DIES OF CORONAVIRUS

Domino’s CEO Ritch Allison told shareholders that the company’s wings have been “greatly improved” with a selection of “terrific new sauces.” It’s part of Domino’s plan to provide more delivery-friendly products to value-conscious customers.

Herman Cain, a 2012 presidential candidate and former chairman and CEO of Godfather’s Pizza from 1986 to 1996, died of the coronavirus on July 30. Cain also served as president and CEO of the National Restaurant Association for three years.

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STUDY: YOU CAN BINGEEAT ALL THE PIZZA YOU WANT (NOW AND THEN)

AUTOMATED PIZZA CHAIN SET TO EXPAND ACROSS CANADA IN 2020

A University of Bath study— essentially a great, big pizza party for science—found that healthy young men (ages 22 to 37) can binge-eat pizza in large quantities without suffering any negative health effects. But they shouldn’t make a habit of it.

PizzaForno, a pizza chain that uses robotic technology to bake and dispense premade pizzas, said it’s poised for rapid expansion across Canada this year. Units will be installed in high-traffic locations such as hospitals and universities.

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6 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

IN THIS ISSUE

SEPTEMBER FEATURES

ON COVTHE ER

Open for Business!

Recessions donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t last forever, but pizzerias need to stay in business long enough to reap the benefits when the economy rebounds. Veteran operators share their best ideas for maintaining profitability, cutting costs and making it easier than ever to order your pizza.

Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner: Joe Aurelio

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IN THIS ISSUE

A Publication of PMQ, Inc. 662-234-5481 Volume 24, Issue 7 September 2020 ISSN 1937-5263

SEPTEMBER DEPARTMENTS

PUBLISHER Steve Green, sg@pmq.com ext. 123 CO-PUBLISHER Linda Green, linda.pmq@gmail.com ext. 121 EDITOR IN CHIEF Rick Hynum, rick@pmq.com ext. 130 ART DIRECTOR Eric Summers, eric@pmq.com ext. 134

In Lehmann’s Terms: Thinking Inside the Dough Box

Tom “The Dough Doctor” Lehmann delves into the dos and don’ts of pizza dough storage.

SENIOR COPY EDITOR Tracy Morin, tracy@pmq.com IT DIRECTOR Cory Coward, cory@pmq.com ext. 133 DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH Blake Harris, blake@pmq.com ext. 136 TEST CHEF/USPT COORDINATOR Brian Hernandez, brian@pmq.com ext. 129 SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Ingrid Valbuena, ingrid@pmq.com ext. 137 FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER David Fischer, david@pmq.com CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Shawn Brown, shawn@pmq.com

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Accounting For Your Money: How to Make the Best Use of Zero-Contact Payment Methods “Test and measure results” should be your mantra for evaluating new technologies.

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Pizza Hall of Fame: Candlelite Chicago

Since 1950, this pizzeria and tavern has become a familiar landmark in the Windy City—and it’s now selling more pizza than ever during the pandemic.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 Online @ PMQ 18 Moneymakers 22 Eye on the Chains 64 SmartMarket

PMQ Pizza Magazine (ISSN #1937-5263) is published 10 times per year.

68 Marketing Idea Zone 70 Product Spotlight 71 The Pizza Exchange

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Cost of U.S. subscription is $25 per year. International $35. Periodical postage pricing paid at Oxford, MS. Additional mailing offices at Bolingbrook, IL. Postmaster: Send address changes to: PMQ Pizza Magazine, PO Box 9, Cedar Rapids, IA 52406-9953. Opinions expressed by the editors and contributing writers are strictly their own, and are not necessarily those of the advertisers. All rights reserved. No portion of PMQ may be reproduced in whole or part without written consent.

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IN LEHMANN’S TERMS

THINKING INSIDE THE DOUGH BOX Over the past several months, I’ve received questions about the use of dough boxes versus sheet pans and individual plastic bags for storing dough balls in the cooler. In this article and the one that follows in October, I’ll delve into some details that might help you decide which is right for you. We’ll start with dough boxes. Dough boxes have long been the industry standard for storing dough balls. Used properly, they’re very effective. When you’re using dough boxes—or trays, as they’re sometimes called— don’t place any oil on the bottom of the box. If you do, the dough balls will skate around in the box if it gets tipped over during handling, and you will find them huddled together at one end of the box. If not corrected, this will result in one giant dough ball by the end of the fermentation time. Instead, simply oil the top of each dough ball after placing it in the box. The balls should be spaced about 2” to 3” apart to allow for expansion of the dough during the fermentation period. Some doughs, especially those with higher absorption, may need to be spaced even further apart, as the softer dough will tend to flow out rather than rise during fermentation.

Tom “The Dough Doctor” Lehmann delves into the dos and don’ts of pizza dough storage. BY TOM LEHMANN

CROSS-STACKING AND DOWN-STACKING

Once the dough balls are boxed, they need to be cross-stacked in the cooler to allow for uniform cooling of the dough. Failure to cross-stack the dough boxes typically results in excessive sweating of the dough, which can lead to sticky dough when the dough balls are opened into skins. It can also promote bubble formation on the dough during the baking process. Additionally, failure to cross-stack the boxes will result in more variability in the rate of fermentation, due to normal variations in finished dough temperature. Both problems can become increasingly problematic with refrigerated fermentation times of more than 24 hours. For most of us, the dough boxes should remain cross-stacked until the internal dough ball temperature reaches 50°F to 55°F. But always target the same specific temperature (say, 53°F), not the range, as your indication to down-stack and seal the dough boxes for the fermentation period. And, if you don’t know, down-stacking means taking the top box and placing it on the bottom of a new stack and orienting the boxes so that each one becomes the sealing lid for the box underneath it. The top box of the stack is then covered with a lid or an empty box.

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When cross-stacking dough boxes in a reach-in cooler (as opposed to a walk-in), the boxes should be placed into the rack or shelves in a staggered manner so that alternating ends of the boxes are open and exposed, allowing for air circulation around the dough balls and improved cooling. For a reach-in cooler, the finished dough temperature should be targeted in the 70°F to 75°F range to compensate for reduced cooling efficiency. When down-stacking for a reach-in cooler, the boxes are typically not restacked in reverse order; they are typically just lidded or nested in the order that they were placed in the cooler and allowed to ferment for the duration of the cold fermentation time. After cold fermentation, boxes should be removed from the cooler and allowed to temper at (not to) room temperature until the internal dough-ball temperature reaches 50°F. At that point, the balls are ready to be opened into skins for immediate use. Under typical conditions, the dough balls remaining in the boxes at room temperature will be good for a period of two and a half to three hours. Just keep the box lidded to prevent the dough from drying out. ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES

Dough boxes offer some key advantages. They’re available in different colors for different days of the week or to signify different doughs contained within the box, and they’re available in different heights to accommodate different dough

ball sizes/weights. You can even find smaller sizes to fit limitedscale operations. Dough boxes can also be used to efficiently and safely transport dough between locations—such as from a commissary to various stores, or from one full-service store to a satellite or express store—thus saving the need for dough preparation space or equipment at the receiving store. The disadvantages of dough boxes include the need for regular cleaning, initial purchase expense and space needed for storage. Some box manufacturers make plastic scrapers designed specifically for their boxes. These tools have specially radiused corners to fit into and help clean the boxes’ inside corners, making for faster, easier cleaning. But when working with plastic dough boxes, do not use metal scrapers to remove the dough balls. You might gouge the surface, which makes removing the dough balls and cleaning the boxes more difficult. In the next issue, we will look at aluminum sheet pans and individual plastic bags for storing your dough balls!

Tom Lehmann was the longtime director of bakery assistance for the American Institute of Baking (AIB) and is now a pizza industry consultant. TH E DOU GH DOC TOR@H OTM A I L. C OM

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ACCOUNTING FOR YOUR MONEY

HOW TO MAKE THE BEST USE OF ZERO-CONTACT PAYMENT METHODS Q A

Should I consider zero-contact payment methods for my pizzeria? That’s a good question. This is a hot new topic, so let’s dive into the issues. According to the National Institutes of Health, the coronavirus can live on plastic, such as credit cards and payment terminals, for up to three days. For this reason, many counties now mandate that merchants disinfect payment terminals, pens and styluses after each use or offer contactless payments. Until now, contactless payment was expensive to deploy or required a new point-of-sale system. Furthermore, many so-called “contactless-capable” terminals still require touching germ-spreading buttons, dongles and signature screens.

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“Test and measure results” should be your mantra for evaluating new technologies. BY MICHAEL RASMUSSEN

Fortunately, there are now zero-contact payment solutions that can be deployed with every POS system for retail, drive-through, curbside and pickup. Pizzerias can even send customers a “pay link” via built-in SMS rather than take credit card information over the phone. This approach is faster and more secure while allowing guests to pay for orders from home or outside of a store before arrival. Tipping is also supported across all zero-contact usage scenarios. These solutions cater to the independent pizzeria, offering caller ID integration, intelligent driver management, online store and DoorDash integration, and customer configuration for specials and variable topping prices. However, implementing any solution without measurement of your ROI is wasteful. You need to have a system to measure results: “Test and measure results” should be your mantra.

Don’t be afraid to fail, but do your research, too. Take the time to clearly determine how you will measure the costs of the proposed solution, including an allocation for indirect overhead associated with it, such as labor and other fixed resources. Interview other restaurateurs who have implemented that solution or a similar one and question them about their process and results—what you learn from them will increase your chance of getting your money’s worth from the technology. Develop a budget and stick to it. Additional costs always creep into any new solution due to unforeseen circumstances. You must track your results, particularly on costs as compared to new sales generated.

Finally, make sure to establish a communications channel to report your results to others on your team. Manage expectations and explain deviations from expected results. Be fully accountable to your team and accept responsibility both for successes and failures. Your brand and customers are looking to you as a leader during these times, and you need to deliver measured results.

Michael Rasmussen has been contributing to PMQ for more than 15 years. You can visit his website, hitechcpa.com, for additional insight into restaurant-specific tax strategies, accounting and technology programs. H I TE C H C PA . C OM

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16 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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Brittany (last name withheld), a Denver artist with cerebral palsy, created a beaded portrait honoring Frida Kahlo as part of a Pizzeria Locale promotion that celebrated artists with disabilities.

CELEBRATING ART FROM THE HEART Denver-based Pizzeria Locale shone a spotlight on differently abled artists to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the signing of the landmark Americans With Disabilities Act throughout July. The three-store company partnered on the promotion with Access Gallery, a Denver nonprofit that helps disabled people make and sell art through galleries and corporate commissions. Pizzeria Locale showcased pieces of Access Gallery art at all of its locations and profiled the individual artists in detailed social media posts. The company also developed 23,000 custom pizza boxes printed with art by Access Gallery’s artists and donated one-third of all its July 26 sales to the gallery. Seventy percent of Americans with disabilities are unemployed, and Pizzeria Locale used the promotion to call attention to their talents and abilities. “I hope the boxes make people think for a moment about accessibility and how they can facilitate that on their personal end,” Pizzeria Locale brand manager Chris Donato told Denver publication Westword.

MASKED UP AT FIRED PIE Fired Pie, a fast-casual pizza concept with 21 locations in Arizona, hit upon a marketing-savvy solution to the COVID19 mask controversy. To convince guests to wear their masks and protect their fellow pizza fans from the virus while in Fired Pie stores, the company designed its own branded mask with the Fired Pie logo, which customers can purchase for $4. And when they wore their masks in any Fired Pie restaurant during the month of August, they received a $1 discount on their purchase. The chain promoted the offer with a social media contest, inviting Facebook users to tag friends or family members who would be interested. Winners were chosen at random and received a free mask and pizza every Monday in August.

Arizona-based Fired Pie incentivized customers to “mask up” with a social media contest and a special offer of discounted food in August.

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An Access Gallery artist named Jocelyn, who is best friends with Brittany, painted a digital abstract self-portrait for her contribution to the Pizzeria Locale promotion.

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MONEYMAKERS

Holy Crust, which opened in early August in Dallas, offers 16 signature pizzas made in a unique style developed by founder Phil Romano’s mother.

A SACRED BOND At first glance, Holy Crust, a new eatery in Dallas, doesn’t seem to make pizzas the way God intended, but don’t tell that to owner Phil Romano— he learned his technique from his mother. Instead of baking the crust, sauce, cheese and toppings together, Romano sautées the toppings and places them on the cheese-laden crust, letting the heat melt the cheese before baking the pie. Romano, who also founded chains like Fuddruckers and Romano’s Macaroni Grill, opened Holy Crust in a restaurant and entertainment marketplace called Trinity Groves in early August. “I’ve been eagerly waiting to unveil this concept, which is very special to me, as it honors my own mother,” Romano said. “My mom’s pizza is still my favorite way to eat the dish, and I hope to convert Dallas diners to this unique and delicious version.” Romano also puts a jug of wine at every table and lets customers pour their own glasses on an honor system. “Just tell the server how many glasses you’ve had when you’re ready to check out,” the restaurant’s website says. “If you’re dishonest, take it up in the confessional on Sunday.”

GOOD SPORTS IN THE KITCHEN The owner of Pizza Barn in Princeton, Minnesota, knows you can never go wrong marketing around high-school sports—even in the middle of summer. Jody Paulson Stay developed a July promotion spotlighting the state’s most popular school mascots as determined in a Twitter poll conducted by the Minnesota State High School League. She and her staff developed a pair of pizzas named after the Moorhead High School Spuds, the No. 1 finisher, and the Blooming Prairie High School Awesome Blossoms, the runner-up. The Spuddy features roasted baby red potatoes with a hint of rosemary, garlic butter, mozzarella and cheddar cheeses, bacon, chives, sour cream and a dash of seasoned salt. Stay went with a barbecue theme for the Awesome Blossom pizza, which boasts a barbecue sauce, fried onion petals, bacon and cheese. Stay’s hometown Princeton Tigers haven’t fared too well lately on the football field, tallying a 5-5 record last season. But she told a local news site that she employs many of the school’s athletes, noting, “If they can’t excel in their chosen sport, they sure have in the kitchen.”

The Pizza Barn’s signature pie, the Spuddy, was inspired by Minnesota’s most popular high-school sports mascot.

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EYE ON THE CHAINS

Pasqually P. Pieplate, the namesake of a new delivery-only brand from CEC Entertainment, is one of the Chuck E. Cheese characters, a drummer in the Munch’s Make Believe Band and the brand’s fictional pizza chef.

CEC DRUMS UP DELIVERYONLY BUSINESS

Like many dine-in pizza brands, Chuck E. Cheese pivoted to delivery, carryout and meal kits for at-home pizza parties after the pandemic struck.

As Chapter 11 bankruptcy loomed for CEC Entertainment this spring, the parent company of Chuck E. Cheese adopted a secret identity, borrowing the name of the drummer in its animatronic Munch’s Make Believe Band for a delivery-only brand called Pasqually’s Pizza & Wings. The brand’s relationship to CEC was uncovered by a Reddit user in May, and CEC admitted to the media that it had quietly launched Pasqually’s nationwide, offering delivery through Grubhub. In late July, CEC announced it had inked a deal with third-party platform Postmates “to bring Pasqually’s Pizza & Wings directly to wherever you are.” Sherri Landry, CEC’s chief marketing officer, added, “We are extremely proud of what we’re building and the excitement that our guests have expressed for this new brand. The results we’ve seen thus far have been extremely encouraging, and CEC Entertainment has more in store for this delivery-only brand.” Pasqually’s shares kitchen space with Chuck E. Cheese locations and uses the same dough. “But it is a different pizza that features a thicker crust and extra sauce, giving consumers a more flavorful, more premium experience,” CEC said.

PAPA JOHN’S ISN’T STRUGGLING ANYMORE As the pandemic has put some independent pizzerias out of business nationwide, the once-struggling Papa John’s is doing better than ever these days. The company announced in July that it will add 10,000 more workers to meet ever-growing demand for its pizza delivery and carryout. It was Papa John’s second major hiring spree of 2020; the company added 20,000 employees at locations around the country back in March. Like rivals Domino’s and Pizza Hut, Papa John’s has seen a surge in sales since the pandemic began. It logged a 28% increase in North American same-store sales and a 5.2% rise internationally during the second quarter of 2020. May was also its “best sales period in company history,” with 26.9% same-store sales growth. All in all, 2020 has brought a remarkable turnaround for Papa John’s, now led by CEO Steve Ritchie; just two years ago, the chain, still reeling from scandals involving ousted founder John Schnatter, announced it was reducing royalties and other fees to help franchisees stay in business. Papa John’s stores around the country, like this one in Hickory, North Carolina, added 20,000 employees back in March and went on a second hiring spree in July.

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Papa John’s current CEO Steve Ritchie came under fire by ousted founder John Schnatter, but the company’s fortunes have improved dramatically under his leadership.

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EYE ON THE CHAINS

After the pandemic hit, CPK was quick to pivot to an off-premise model that included takehome meal kits for families.

PANDEMIC FORCES CPK INTO CHAPTER 11 BANKRUPTCY California Pizza Kitchen (CPK), headquartered in Playa Vista, California, became the latest major restaurant chain forced into Chapter 11 bankruptcy by the coronavirus pandemic. The company announced on July 30 that it had entered into a restructuring support agreement with lenders aimed at equitizing “the vast majority” of its long-term debt.

Lauren Bushnell Lane, who competed in the 20th season of The Bachelor, tried out the cauliflower-crust pie at a California Pizza Kitchen location in 2018.

The filing will allow CPK “to close unprofitable locations, reduce its longterm debt load, and quickly emerge from bankruptcy as a much stronger company,” the company said in a press release. CPK expects to receive about $46.8 million in financing that will allow it to continue operating its stores, pay vendors and employees, and honor ongoing commitments to its stakeholders. CEO Jim Hyatt called the filing “a step towards a stronger future for California Pizza Kitchen.” In a separate statement on the CPK website, he said, “We anticipate a short stay in Chapter 11 and expect to progress on an expedited timeline. Our goal is to complete the Chapter 11 process in under three months.” Under private equity owner Golden Gate Capital, which bought the chain in 2011, CPK had been struggling with debt for some time prior to the pandemic. The Wall Street Journal reported in April that the company was looking into restructuring its debt to avoid a bankruptcy filing. In July, California Governor Gavin Newsom ordered restaurants to close dine-in services across the state after a resurgence of the virus. Newsom had first suspended indoor dining in March, then allowed a phased-in reopening process that started in May. As the pandemic worsened, he ordered another dine-in shutdown in early July that covered 19 counties, including Los Angeles County, before expanding the order to cover the entire state.

Brian Sullivan, CPK’s senior vice president of culinary development, created many of the chain’s signature dishes.

CPK, which opened its first store in Beverly Hills, California, in 1985, was a pioneer of the California pizza style and now operates more than 250 restaurants around the country. As the pandemic worsened, the company rolled out CPK Market, an off-premise model that offers meal kits and pantry items like meats, fruits and vegetables. The company also temporarily closed more than 40 locations that were unable to pivot to the new model.

24 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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THE CHEF’S CORNER

JOE AURELIO, AURELIO’S PIZZA Aurelio’s has 40 stores in six states, but its flagship location in Homewood, Illinois, still feels as local as it did back in 1959. BY BRIAN HERNANDEZ The smells and flavors of pizza evoke nostalgic memories and feelings for most people. Maybe it takes you back to the third grade, smelling the fresh pies coming out of the oven while awaiting your freebie for reading five books in a month, or noshing on a cheese pie as your favorite animatronic character flails on the electric guitar. One pizzeria that takes “pizza memories” to the next level is the Aurelio’s Pizza location in Homewood, Illinois. Boasting 16,000 square feet of pizza producing power, 650 seats and more than 16 ovens, this Aurelio’s store claims to be the largest pizzeria in the world. With its long halls adorned with customers’ baby pictures, unique architecture and giant floor plan packed with nostalgia in every corner—plus more than 60 years of history—Aurelio’s screams “hometown pizzeria.” Joe Aurelio, the son of Aurelio’s founder and heir to the throne, has worked hard to keep the family name synonymous with good pizza, good service and community spirit, all while growing the family brand to 40 locations in six states. I recently sat down with Aurelio to hear his secrets for turning a small hometown operation into a nationally known brand.

Hernandez: How did Aurelio’s get started? Aurelio: My father, Joe, started this place in 1959 with four tables and an oven at the original location here in Homewood. Pizza wasn’t very popular yet. He focused on Italian beef sandwiches, but he always had a desire to make and sell pizza. So it was one customer and one pizza at a time. Eventually, people started talking about the pies, and business started to grow. If you ordered a beef sandwich, my dad would bring out a pizza and ask you to try it. That’s how he grew the pizza side, and by 1961, the flip happened, and he was mainly focused on pizza while still serving the best Italian beef sandwiches in the neighborhood. Then, in 1974, he was the first pizzeria owner in Chicago to start franchising, and by 1977 he had to move to a larger location just around the block, which is our current flagship establishment here in Homewood. Hernandez: So selling pizza was always your father’s real goal for Aurelio’s? Aurelio: He wanted to be the pizza restaurant, to produce the best pizza he could with the highest quality ingredients. The only problem was the people were not used to pizza yet. There

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was a lot of effort and customer training that went into that transition from beef sandwiches to pizza. Hernandez: What is your definition of Chicago-style pizza? Aurelio: Back in 1943, downtown Chicago-style was a deep-dish pizza. My dad, however, was always drawn towards the thinnerstyle pizza. People don’t realize there are really three kinds of Chicago-style pizza: thin-crust, deep-dish and stuffed. We also have a stuffed pie, which has a crust on top in more of the “pie” style. But the go-to Aurelio’s pizza is a thin-crust Chicago style.

“[My father originally] focused on Italian beef sandwiches, but he always had a desire to make and sell pizza.…If you ordered a beef sandwich, my dad would bring out a pizza and ask you to try it.” — JOE AURELIO, AURELIO’S PIZZA

Hernandez: I’ve heard of a piece of equipment at Aurelio’s called “The Monster.” Would you care to explain? Aurelio: My dad was an innovator, but sometimes the technology wasn’t available yet. He teamed up with a local engineer who asked, “Joe, what could I make to help speed up your pizza process?” My dad said, “If you can find a way to put this meat on the pizza without doing it by hand”—because it was fresh, homemade Italian sausage—”it will speed up the process.” He meant [a tool that would] portion it and cut it, have it drop on the pie, then you’re done. He was also the first here to use cooling racks for the pies. He asked someone to craft some screens for the pizzas to keep the dough crispier, and we’ve used them ever since. SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

“About 40 years ago, we started putting up pictures of diners’ babies. We even started giving out baby onesies in trade for photos. Over the last 40 years, we’ve amassed over 5,000 baby pictures and several generations of happy pizza diners.”

Hernandez: Out of culinary curiosity, what is your favorite ingredient or flavor to cook with? Aurelio: Sausage. I like adding a little hot giardiniera. It gives it a nice kick. I also enjoy roasted red peppers. Hernandez: Are there any ingredients you really want to test in the kitchen? Aurelio: Plant-based proteins. We’re working on that, and we’ll see what happens. We’re also looking at a cauliflower crust. We already have gluten-intolerant pies. This would just help round us out for all customers. You have to pay attention to what the trends are, but at the same time you have to be true to your brand. Hernandez: I just have to ask: What’s your personal favorite style and flavor of Chicago pizza? Aurelio: Well, I love the thinner crust. I just want my crust to be able to hold up my ingredients. That’s enough for me. And I’m very simple: I would do sausage and cheese. You got your cheese, your sauce, your dough and sausage. It’s simple and perfect. Hernandez: There are a lot of long hallways in your Homewood store, and most are covered with baby pictures. How did that come about? Aurelio: We’ve always been about family, and about 40 years ago we started putting up pictures of diners’ babies. We even started giving out baby onesies in trade for photos. Over the last 40 years, we’ve amassed over 5,000 baby pictures and several generations of happy pizza diners. The oldest person in a picture is now 48, and he’s bringing his family here to eat, like when he was a child. It gives the customer a feeling of family and ownership, like this is their place too. Hernandez: You’ve grown to 40 stores in six states. But, looking at the map, they do not fan out concentrically from Chicago. You have locations in places from Las Vegas to Minnesota all the way down to Florida. How did this happen, and how do you maintain consistency? Aurelio: It really is a testament to the brand. Every one of our franchisees were past customers that moved outside Chicago and missed Aurelio’s but couldn’t get it. To keep consistency,

— JOE AURELIO, AURELIO’S PIZZA we opened a commissary. We recently outgrew our first one and had to relocate. The new commissary is 10,000 square feet, and the sausage, cheese, salami and pepperoni for all Aurelio’s go through that location. We deliver to all our local stores and have a distribution partner that gets it to all the out-of-state stores. We also have cold-food-storage locations [near] our units in Florida, Georgia, Minnesota and Las Vegas. They hold the product there, and then the franchisee will order locally. Now everyone has the same dough, the same cheese, the same sauce. Everything is consistent. Hernandez: What is the difference in marketing between the present day and when your dad opened in 1959? What did he do to get his name out there? Aurelio: Back in the old days, it was all about supporting the local baseball teams, the churches, the theater. But it’s a whole new world now. In addition to supporting local sports and causes, now we have an app for ordering with a rewards system. We do Facebook ads, Facebook posting, texting. We also do some radio, TV and billboards. We still try to touch all types of media. Wordof-mouth from all of our community efforts is very effective, but we found in the digital era, you get the most out of your money from digital ads and texting. It’s a high-tech world, and it keeps changing every day. Brian Hernandez is PMQ’s test chef.

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To see the full interview with Joe Aurelio, visit PMQ.com/ Aurelio. Also check out the PMQ Live Update interview with Aurelio at https://tinyurl.com/joeaurelio.

THE SUPER SIX — AURELIO’S PIZZA, HOMEWOOD, IL INGREDIENTS: • 14-oz. dough ball, stretched to 15” • 6 oz. sauce • 14 oz. fresh, pinched Italian sausage • 10 oz. shredded mozzarella (first layer, 6 oz.; second layer, 4 oz.) • 6.5 oz. thinly sliced ham (2” x 2” slices) • 34-36 slices pepperoni • 2.5 oz. green peppers • 2.5 oz. mushrooms

DIRECTIONS: Slap, stretch or press your dough out to a very thin 15” crust. Spread sauce, leaving about a ¼” crust line. Add fresh sausage—pinch small, marble-sized pieces so they cook fully. Next, add the first layer of cheese (3.5 oz.). Then add slices of ham and top with pepperoni, green peppers and mushrooms. Finally, add remaining cheese (6.5 oz) and top with any seasonings you wish. Cook for about 10 to 12 minutes at 525°F or until the crust is golden-brown and crispy underneath and the ingredients have baked fully. Remove from the oven and cut into squares. RECIPE VIDEO: Learn how to make The Super Six pizza at PMQ.com/super6.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

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Faced with unprecedented challenges, pizzerias have emerged as heroes in their communities. Here’s how to keep your doors open—and your customers happy— through 2020 and beyond. BY RICK HYNUM

There hasn’t been enough good news for most pizzeria owners since the pandemic struck, but a Culinary Visions survey released in August offered one encouraging note: While customers have adapted to the “new normal” of delivery and carryout, they miss the dine-in experience more than ever and long for its return. The survey found that 77% of respondents look forward to dining out again and “have a greater appreciation for all of the restaurant experiences they used to take for granted.” A similar number said they view chefs as heroes in their communities, and 78% said they plan to patronize restaurants known for taking care of their employees during the pandemic.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

Snappy Tomato Pizza has been feeding families and groups for years, with help from an oversize pizza called The Beast.

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“Consumers are relying on food from their favorite local spots, and they understand the obstacles restaurants face while serving their community during a pandemic,” says Sharon Olson, executive director of Chicago-based Culinary Visions. “Diners have a lot of gratitude for the chefs, waitstaff and restaurants that have become pillars in the community during these difficult times, and they want to support them as much as they can.” Unfortunately, over the short term, discretionary spending will likely remain limited for many customers who have either lost their jobs or worry about ending up on the unemployment line. Recessions don’t last forever, but operators have to find ways to keep their doors open long enough to reap the benefits when the economy rebounds. And that means remaining flexible and innovative while sticking with the methods that have proven to work thus far, such as low-touch or zerocontact delivery, carryout and curbside pickup. But you already know that. We asked several pizzeria operators and restaurant consultants to dig a little deeper and share additional insights and strategies for boosting profitability, cutting costs and making ordering your pizza as, you know, easy as pie. Here’s what they told us: Mark Wasilefsky Head, TD Bank’s Restaurant Franchise Finance Group South Glastonbury, CT In this current economic environment, having cash on hand is crucial in case of a future emergency or unforeseen circumstance. Pizzeria owners should focus on retaining sufficient capital and liquidity in the

“Having cash on hand is crucial in case of a future emergency. Pizzeria owners should focus on retaining sufficient capital and liquidity in the business to prepare for a potential second wave of shutdowns.” — MARK WASILEFSKY, TD BANK’S RESTAURANT FRANCHISE FINANCE GROUP business to prepare for a potential second wave of shutdowns and leverage government programs, such as Paycheck Protection Program loans and SBA Economic Injury Disaster Loans, as applicable. As consumer discretionary spending continues to decrease and many consumers continue to confront financial challenges as a result of the pandemic, there will be a fixed level of providers serving a shrinking base, and pizzerias should focus on the value they can bring to the individual consumer. This can already be seen in pizzeria advertisements that focus on the per-person cost of a meal deal. It will also be critical for pizzerias to retain good managers who have deeper knowledge of the restaurant’s operations at the expense of lower-paid traditional employees, should the pizzeria need to implement additional staffing cuts. Pizzeria owners should consider simplifying their menus as one of the easiest ways to control gross margins. They can also try to be creative with core ingredients to provide perceived variety and attract customers.

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Find your Ispirazione Italiana

What's my Italian Inspiration? It’s a passion for perfection. When I decided to do pizza, I studied the chemistry of dough, went to pizza school in Italy, and eventually became the second American-born chef to be certified as a master pizzaiolo. And before I chose Galbani® cheese, I put it to the test. I tried it on different pizzas, at different temperatures, and in different ovens. The versatility and performance totally impressed me—and you know that’s hard to do! —CHEF BILLY MANZO, OWNER, FEDERAL HILL PIZZA

RASCAL HOUSE

When it comes to ingredients for your pizzas and other menu items, don’t let your suppliers’ problems become your problems, says Niko Frangas, president of Cleveland-based Rascal House.

“Delivery services take out a commission of each order, so it is monetarily beneficial for restaurants to make their own deliveries. Plus, your staff can earn gratuities while dining in the restaurant isn’t as popular.”

Erik Pettersen — ERIK PETTERSEN, EVO ITALIAN Owner, Evo Italian Tequesta, FL I recommend taking delivery into your own hands and not relying on a third-party delivery service. If you bring this in-house, you can better ensure that the person making deliveries is healthy and dressed professionally, won’t eat your food, and will deliver your order in a timely fashion so it’s still hot. Delivery services take out a commission of each order, so it is monetarily beneficial for restaurants to make their own deliveries. Plus, your staff can earn gratuities while dining in the restaurant isn’t as popular. Offer family-style meal deals, and if your restaurant is only open for limited hours or days of the week, make sure you are serving fresh food and that it hasn’t expired, gone stale or spoiled. Be careful not to over-order ingredients. Embrace people who bring utensils, cups and plates from home if that will make them feel more comfortable dining at your establishment. Niko Frangas President, Rascal House Cleveland, OH The first mistake I’ve seen is operators who do not fight hard enough to offset supply chain disruption. I have seen brands run out of ingredients, use different cheese, change their products, etc. You have to remain crazy focused on not disrupting your customer’s experience with your brand as much as possible. Don’t settle for what your supplier’s issues are. Find a way and find the right items to fill supply gaps even if they’re short. It means a lot for your customer and your brand. Even under [difficult] circumstances, it’s critical to show up and be that reliable and consistent element for the customer. The second mistake is a lack of properly connected marketing. In essence, some operators have been too focused on cutting costs, reducing payroll and buying cheaper supplies instead of full engagement into driving sales through awareness campaigns, marketing in the right channels for their brand, and constant messaging and communicating. Driving sales fixes a lot of other problems, especially as costs escalate. Instead of looking for ways to cut costs first, operators should try to focus on increasing sales. Marketing is crucial.

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From digital marketing and customer rewards to continually improving curbside service, Snappy Tomato Pizza is staying the course—and you should, too, says marketing director Andy Ritter.

Andy Ritter Director of Marketing, Snappy Tomato Pizza Burlington, KY You should have a COVID-19 plan in place, should any team members or managers become exposed or feel ill. Don’t wait until it happens—plan ahead so you don’t have to shut your doors. You can’t do anything without your staff—they are the most important part of your operation. Continue to improve and streamline curbside service. Add it as a service type on your online ordering platform so guests can choose the option of never leaving their vehicle. In addition, install prepaid carryout areas so guests that choose a carryout option don’t have to come in contact with team members. These are both great ways to limit contact, practice social distancing and keep areas [in the pizzeria] from becoming crowded. Stay the course, and do not stop advertising. Use digital media. This is the time to advertise in Google Search, social media and SMS messaging. Offer random rewards and surprise loyal customers and former customers that have fallen off the radar with free pizza. Offer a dollar back on a gift card for every $10 spent. This could encourage repeat purchases. Use social media as an outlet and have your employees make video snippets thanking customers. Get your employees to share their stories and stress how important this job is to them and how much they appreciate their customers. Include a handwritten note from the manager to longtime customers who are in this fight with you. David Rader Senior Project Manager, Dyer Brown (architecture firm) Boston, MA The smartest moves are to extend the outdoor patio season for as long as possible and to look at optimizing takeout. There has been a trend to maximize outdoor seating, an option that makes the public feel safer these days. For cooler climates, lengthening the outdoor dining season requires investing in patio heaters to keep exterior seating areas open as long as possible. For optimizing takeout, we saw many venues adjust by offering pickup at multiple entry points or offering a dedicated waiting area for takeout customers.

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Noble Pie Parlor co-owner Ryan Goldhammer (pictured at bottom right with co-owner Trevor Leppek and employee Bryan Jameson) says restaurateurs should make optimal use of their staff, from running the bar to closing down at night.

Ryan Goldhammer Co-Owner, Noble Pie Parlor Reno, NV One of the smartest moves a pizzeria owner can make during these difficult and uncertain times is to refocus on the three pillars of your business: food cost, labor cost and marketing. This is an excellent time to reestablish your relationship with the finer details of your business model. Call for meetings with your managers and food reps. Sharpen your pencil with your local purveyors. Get your par sheets, order guides and inventory updated and trim the fat. It is important to turn the screws of food cost, food waste, portion control and inventory that’s collecting dust on shelves. Second, work on keeping those labor costs lowered. Analyze your sales. See if there should be an adjustment— or further adjustments—to your operating hours. With diminished sales, does the prep crew need as many workers on shift? Do you need two bartenders or only one? Lower volume and limited operations should also impact how long it takes a closing team to properly break down and clean the restaurant and bar areas. Everyone who is part of your team is part of your family. Instilling these ideals into your corporate culture are important factors when getting everyone on board with helping to streamline tasks and take care of that bottom line. Finally, focus on marketing. Even though budgets may be stretched, there is always opportunity in chaos. Many of your competitors will be cutting their marketing budgets, operating hours and even general services. Perhaps there are opportunities to capitalize on your competition? Measure your labor analysis against your potential to corner a late-night market that you feel may be underserved. Make sure you are partnering with the right mix of third-party delivery services that maximize your reach. These services all have internal marketing programs that may work to your advantage. Adding in-house delivery options as well can make huge impacts for low overhead. Even just ramping up your general awareness via social media outlets for very little cost can be a huge ally in these trying times! Rick Hynum is PMQ’s editor-in-chief.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

DOM INO’S

40 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

DELIVERING

Goods THE

Even before the pandemic, leading pizza chains were implementing new technology to streamline delivery and carryout—and they’re continuing to innovate in game-changing ways. BY TRACY MORIN

With limited dine-in capacity and closures continuing in pandemic hotspots, delivery and carryout are more important than ever before. A recent Zagat survey found that 88% of consumers are now ordering delivery—a 19% increase over the pre-pandemic figure of 69%. In fact, the survey reported that one in two respondents are ordering delivery or takeout at least once every week, with the average being twice per week.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

MARCO’S PIZZA

Marco’s Pizza is now putting a strong emphasis on safe and efficient curbside services at its more than 900 locations nationwide.

“In addition to notifying the store when a customer arrives and letting a customer know that his order is available, we’re integrating various elements of artificial intelligence to streamline the [delivery] process further.”

To meet those demands, operators are making serious strides with their delivery and carryout systems—a process that, for many forward-thinkers, started long before those changes were necessary. Here, we offer some enlightening case studies from tech-savvy chains that are leading the charge, providing lessons that even independents can learn from and take on board. MARCO’S PIZZA: OUTLETS OF THE FUTURE

Based in Toledo, Ohio, with more than 900 locations nationwide, Marco’s Pizza now places a high priority on safe delivery and carryout. “We’ve always been looking for ways to enhance the transaction process to be more convenient for the customer,” notes Rick Stanbridge, VP and CIO for Marco’s Pizza. “But when the pandemic struck, we accelerated

— RICK STANBRIDGE, MARCO’S PIZZA our innovation efforts to quickly and strategically engineer contact-free delivery and curbside carryout. These services allow us to keep both our team members and customers safe while we remained open as an essential business to serve communities nationwide.” Now, Marco’s is in the process of piloting, testing and implementing several additional technologies, including SMS and beacons, to further automate contact-free delivery and curbside carryout. These technologies can be embedded into both the Marco’s app and its POS systems. “In addition to notifying the store when a customer arrives and letting a customer know that his order is available, we’re integrating various elements of artificial intelligence to streamline the process further,” Stanbridge says. “For example, once an order is placed, the customer receives an email confirmation. This confirmation allows customers to notify the store upon arrival, and a message is immediately sent to the POS system— sharing identifying information such as vehicle description and order number—so that the customer can be serviced quickly.” There’s also an option for customers to track an order With the help of technology, Marco’s Pizza is allowing for customers and employees alike to further streamline curbside service orders.

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Innovations like robotics and ghost kitchens are enhancing accuracy and speed, while lowering food costs, for maximum efficiency at Marco’s Pizza.

MARCO’S PIZZA

“Virtual or ghost kitchens are all about efficiency in a shared kitchen space and also allow us to easily use third-party delivery drivers and provide a quick-toopen format.” — RON STILWELL, MARCO’S PIZZA to keep them updated every step of the way, allowing for seamless and safe exchanges. Ron Stilwell, Marco’s VP and chief development officer, says the company designed its podular unit—a smaller operation (about 850 square feet) that focuses on drive-through and carryout with a walk-up window—prior to the pandemic. But the model, which also supports delivery, complements the “new restaurant era” ushered in by COVID-19 concerns, including the increased demand for a contact-free experience. “We have several franchisees in the process of piloting this unit, which will allow them to own and operate a Marco’s Pizza at a much lower cost while expanding our reach to areas that lack real estate options for a full build-out,” Stilwell says. “It shrinks the timeline from signing an agreement to grand opening, while still creating jobs, as the team member size is about the same as a traditional Marco’s Pizza unit (15 to 25 employees).” Meanwhile, Marco’s is meeting with various manufacturers on integrating robotics into its kitchens, with the goal of

automating its high-traffic locations for efficiency and accuracy. “The primary benefit of this form of technology is speed—lowering delivery times and maximizing high-volume opportunities,” Stilwell notes. “At the same time, we need to ensure our quality standards are maintained, so we’re in the process of testing all of these aspects, which is very tricky.” However, one of the benefits Marco’s execs have seen in these tests is lower food costs—since robots are engineered to use the exact measurements of sauce, cheese and toppings, they reduce food waste and save money. Finally, Marco’s is piloting virtual or ghost kitchens with franchisees in California, North Carolina and Houston. “These virtual or ghost kitchens are all about efficiency in a shared kitchen space and also allow us to easily use third-party delivery drivers and provide a quick-to-open format,” Stilwell explains. “Third-party delivery is booming, and one way to ensure customers the same great experience via a third-party app is to optimize your kitchen for those types of orders.”

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DOMINO’S: LEADING THE TECHNOLOGY CHARGE

Anyone who’s been paying attention to pizza-related technological innovations can certainly look to Domino’s, which regularly rolls out new ideas for streamlined delivery. “Domino’s has a longstanding history of developing technology to bring even more convenience to our customers,” notes Danielle Bulger, public relations program leader for Domino’s, headquartered in Ann Arbor, Michigan. “In the last year alone, Domino’s has announced a number of innovations, which range from GPS delivery tracking capabilities to the use of e-bikes. We most recently announced Domino’s Carside Delivery, a contactless carryout option that customers can choose when placing a prepaid online order.” The technology used for Domino’s Carside Delivery offers a unique identifier that separates the chain from other pizzerias’ curbside pickup. The Domino’s Carside Delivery is integrated into its ordering app and website, so when the customer clicks “I’m here” on the Domino’s Tracker page or replies to the opt-in text, the store is automatically notified, and a team member comes out with the order. “We launched the Domino’s Tracker in 2008 so that customers could track the progress of their order—from the time it’s placed to when it goes in the oven and when it’s out for delivery,” Bulger adds. “We always take customers’ feedback into consideration and think about what would bring them even more convenience. The same train of thought was applied when developing our lineup of AnyWare ordering technology, Pie Pass and Domino’s Carside Delivery.”

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The POS system at Pizza Guys allows for real-time tracking, keeping employees on task and allowing customers to follow their order as it processes from make line to pickup- or delivery-ready.

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PIZZA GUYS: THE RIGHT TRACK

With so many customers now relying on delivery, Pizza Guys, based in Sacramento, California, with 69 locations, has implemented the use of real-time delivery tracking at select locations. “When people order, they want to know what is happening with their food, which is why Pizza Guys uses the real-time tracker,” says Shahpour Nejad, CEO and founder of Pizza Guys. “This allows customers to see when their pizza is being made and packaged, and when it is sent out for delivery.” This feature is built into the new Pizza Guys POS system, and customers don’t need to download any apps or programs; they can simply track their order on a web browser or on a mobile device, through the order page on the Pizza Guys website. If the customer provides a mobile number and does not opt out of texts, he’ll receive notifications on his phone. Here’s how the tracking system works: When a customer places an order, a ticket is generated in Pizza Guys’ POS with the full order. The ticket appears on the tablet at the first station (slap station), and the customer will see “order placed.” Once dough has been slapped and sauced, the employee presses a green button on the ticket that says “slap.” The ticket and the pizza get passed down to the makeline, where toppings are added, so customers see “making” on their end. The ticket will then show on the tablet above the makeline. When the employee finishes adding the toppings, the pizza is placed in

the oven, and the employee presses the green button that says “makeline” again, and the customer sees “baking.” The ticket will then show on the tablet at the cut table. Once the pizza is baked, the employee cuts and boxes the pizza. The employee then presses the green button that says “cut table” for the ticket. “For a pickup order, once that button is pressed, the customer will receive a text message stating his pizza is ready,” Nejad explains. “For a delivery, that ticket will show on the tablet where we dispatch drivers. When a driver goes for delivery, he will press the green button on the ticket that says ‘dispatch.’ Once that button is pressed, the customer receives a text stating his order is out for delivery.” One caveat: The Pizza Guys tracking feature does not track its drivers when they are out for delivery, so customers don’t know where the driver is. “Customers have to estimate the time for delivery based on how far the store is from their house,” Nejad says. “This is not a huge issue, but there are times when customers expect their order to be there sooner than our estimated time given.”

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PIEOLOGY: DELIVERY-CAPABLE CRUST DEVELOPMENT

The fast-casual outlet Pieology, based in Tustin, California, with 130 locations nationwide, noticed a rising global trend in delivery years ago. So in 2017 it created a crust type specifically optimized for delivery and carryout. “We felt it necessary to invest our resources in developing a crust that travels well, because we want our guests to experience Pieology pizza at home and work that’s as close to the in-store experience as possible,” notes Yulree Tio, senior manager, brand marketing at Pieology. “Though all of our crusts can be enjoyed outside of the restaurant, the thick, fluffy crust we developed—crispy on the outside and soft on the inside—makes the PieRise Thick a fan favorite for delivery. With more people looking for off-premise options now, we’re on the right track by providing guests quick, convenient and restaurant-quality food that travels well.” To attract interest, the company recently launched a value offer for guests, featuring two PieRise Thick Crusts for $14.99, called the Duo Deal. “In the spirit of constant improvement and listening to our guests’ needs and desires, we’re also exploring innovative packaging, operational optimization, and nontraditional developments such as ghost kitchens,” Tio concludes. “These are all designed to drive the evolution of our delivery capabilities.” Tracy Morin is PMQ’s senior copy editor.

PIEOLOGY

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Thinking of adding third-party delivery to your operation? Learn from these operators’ experiences with the major players—and discover some emerging alternatives. BY TRACY MORIN

Third-party delivery was already a force to be reckoned with when the COVID-19 pandemic struck in early 2020. According to a June report by Upserve, working with a third-party delivery service can increase restaurant sales volume by 10% to 20%, while overall delivery sales are predicted to grow every year by more than 20%, to $365 billion worldwide by 2030 (from $35 billion today).

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

NONO’S PIZZERIA

NoNo’s Pizzeria, opening at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, was prepared to partner with third-party delivery companies to ensure early success.

On the other hand, some 2020 stats showed a decline in the popularity of third-party delivery: Apptopia reported last March that despite “consistently strong growth” for food delivery apps like DoorDash, Uber Eats, Grubhub and Postmates in recent years, monthly active users had fallen by 13.3%, and sessions had dropped 17.7%, since May 2019. But in the era that brought us stay-at-home orders, social distancing, reduced dining-room capacities and the desire for contactless deliveries, third-party services remain an attractive option for new and experienced operators alike—including those who never offered delivery before.

“Partnering with third-party platforms allows us to give back to the community and provide jobs to delivery drivers—a win-win situation. They’re familiar to our customers and are user-friendly, so it was easy to jump on board with our concept.”

THE RULES OF THIRDS

— MICHAEL LIEBOWITZ, NONO’S PIZZA

For NoNo’s Pizzeria in Miami Beach, Florida, opening day in June looked anything but normal, thanks to COVID-19. Owner Michael Liebowitz knew he’d have to partner with third-party delivery platforms like Uber Eats and Grubhub. “Given the current climate and the growing demand for food delivery, we wanted to give our customers the same fast-casual experience, but from the comfort of their home,” Liebowitz explains. “Partnering with these platforms also allows us to give back to the community and provide jobs to delivery drivers—a win-win situation. They’re familiar to our customers and are user-friendly, so it was easy to jump on board with our concept.” Third-party delivery appeals to longstanding pizzerias as well. Grimaldi’s Pizzeria, an established icon in Brooklyn, New York, had never offered delivery in its decades-long history,

but the pandemic forced a rethink. “On any given day prior to COVID-19, you would see a line of guests on the sidewalk waiting for a table, but when the pandemic started, everything changed,” says Joseph Ciolli, CEO of Grimaldi’s Pizzeria. “We knew we would have to be nimble, creative and resourceful in order to weather the storm. We understood the value in partnering with third-party delivery services like DoorDash, Grubhub and Uber Eats, especially during a time when delivery (and takeout) was all that was available.” Though the process of adding delivery via third parties “was definitely a new experience,” Ciolli admits, he didn’t find the transition difficult, thanks to the companies’ finely honed onboarding experience. “These third-party services are extremely skilled at what they do, and our team is flexible,

50 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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The historic John’s of Bleecker pizzeria in New York City partners with an on-demand courier service to quickly deliver pies on the city’s crowded streets.

RELAY

“When starting up [with a third-party company], you may encounter some operational challenges. Keep the lines of communication open to adjust prep times, order pickup instructions and delivery radiuses until you find what works best for your business.” — JOSEPH CIOLLI, GRIMALDI’S PIZZERIA

efficient and willing to adapt,” he says. “We had to adjust at the beginning to accommodate, but since the dining room was closed, it was a pretty seamless transition. Our Brooklyn-area guests were thrilled to be able to order delivery from us for the first time, and we’re proud to continue serving our guests despite the pandemic.” In fact, within five minutes of switching on the new delivery capabilities, Grimaldi’s Pizzeria was already receiving orders. Meanwhile, the newbie, NoNo’s Pizzeria, used the power of social media to get the word out about its various delivery platforms and encourage its customers to order in the way that’s most convenient for them. Though the pizzeria itself was new to delivery, the Grimaldi’s staff had extensive experience working in the restaurant industry, so the service was not entirely foreign to the team. Ciolli reports that the third-party partners have been great to work with and even offered certain perks. For example, DoorDash supported the pizzeria by offering free delivery to all users on Saturdays at no cost to the restaurant, while Uber Eats ran a buy-one-get-one-free 12” pizza promo to help boost sales. But Ciolli believes the biggest benefit (in New York City as well as its locations around the country) has been being able to offer a contactless experience to guests. However, Ciolli does offer some advice for other restaurant owners looking to explore third-party delivery. “When starting up, you may encounter some operational challenges,” he warns. “Keep the lines of communication open to adjust prep times, order pickup instructions and delivery radiuses until you find what works best for your business. Our partners have been extremely helpful in this regard.”

52 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

New third-party delivery services are now cropping up to compete with the more established names in the delivery business.

For Grimaldi’s, stepping into the delivery business through third parties was a risk worth taking, as the restaurant was nearly 100% dine-in at its Brooklyn location prior to COVID-19; now, the business is 100% carryout and delivery. “Without delivery, our sales would have suffered greatly, so partnering with companies like DoorDash and Uber Eats has had a huge positive impact in keeping the location up and running and our staff members employed,” Ciolli concludes. “It also provides us with another way to serve our guests who are not comfortable visiting the restaurant at this time. Even post-COVID, as long as we have the capacity to do so, we will continue offering delivery.” EMERGING ALTERNATIVES

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Third-party deliveries, of course, have had their well-publicized issues. The companies may take a large chunk of profits, and operators have complained of ill-equipped drivers and rude behavior. Many believe that working through third parties removes the sense of hospitality and personal connection that so many independent pizzerias thrive on. Even customers have proven dissatisfied, with Reuters reporting last April that three New York-based consumers filed a class-action lawsuit against Grubhub, DoorDash, Postmates and Uber Eats for tacking on “exorbitant” fees to process delivery orders.

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SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

GRIMALDI’S PIZZERIA

“I was looking for a way to make our delivery more efficient. The biggest benefit [of third-party delivery] is the speed with which we’re able to fulfill orders.”

Despite opening its doors for decades to dine-in customers, Grimaldi’s Pizzeria now finds itself operating with 100% carryout and delivery, with help from third-party providers.

With turmoil stirring up the third-party delivery business, it was only a matter of time before others would hop on board to compete with the major players. One of these was started by David Litchman, a Chicago-area restaurateur and founder of BellyMelly, which was designed to help local operators compete with third-party sites. The service charges a processing fee of 3% per takeout or delivery order, and the app helps owners donate a portion of the bill to charity. “I’ve spent more than 30 years in the restaurant industry and have seen firsthand how third-party technologies—and their hidden fees, penalties and charges—can cause serious problems for local restaurants,” Litchman says. “We want to help local restaurants thrive, instead of pocketing a large commission at the expense of our restaurant partners.” For takeout or delivery, a customer orders from a local restaurant using the BellyMelly app or online portal and, upon checkout, the user selects from a list of local community organizations to donate a percentage of the sale price, at no cost to the user. Each restaurant then decides an appropriate percentage to donate to its community partner of choice— anything from nonprofit organizations to local schools— and BellyMelly collects payment, sends the profit to the restaurant, and shares donations directly with the community organization. Meanwhile, in high-traffic New York City, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C., Relay offers another alternative to thirdparty delivery companies. The on-demand service dispatches couriers to restaurants when they have pending orders for delivery. “We can help restaurants bring deliveries in-house (customers can order directly from their website or over the

— BEN SHEEDY, JOHN’S OF BLEEKER phone), but we can also help them deliver orders from online platforms,” notes Marissa Venuto, senior account executive, sales and partnerships, for New York City-based Relay. “Pizza is one of the most popular and difficult items to deliver, so all of Relay’s couriers are prepared with the proper equipment, including pizza racks and bags.” Generally, Relay charges restaurants a flat fee, so the restaurant can pass it along to the customer in the form of a delivery fee, if desired. John’s of Bleecker, a historic pizzeria in Manhattan, now taps Relay for its delivery services. In a video testimonial, John’s representative Ben Sheedy said, “I was looking for a way to make our delivery more efficient. The biggest benefit...is the speed with which we’re able to fulfill orders.” Ultimately, whether you choose one of the big-name companies or an up-and-coming competitor, check the fine print on fees, charges and policies; ensure customer service is top-notch, in case there’s an issue; and consider passing along at least some of the surcharges to customers so you’re gaining, not giving up on, profits. With the proper procedures in place, third-party services could prove a significant moneymaker for years to come at your operation. Tracy Morin is PMQ’s senior copy editor.

54 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

The 2020 Virtual U.S. Pizza Cup Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 at 2PM CST YOU EAT WITH YOUR EYES FIRST, AND THIS FALL WE’LL PROVE IT WITH THE VIRTUAL U.S. PIZZA CUP!

The 2020 Virtual U.S. Pizza Cup (VUSPC) is gearing up to be the virtual culinary event of the year, focusing on visual appeal and presentation. To enter, submit a high-resolution photo (file size of 1 to 3 MBs) of your pizza, plated, with full presentation, as well as a high-res “side slice” photo to show your crumb structure. This event is open to all pizzaioli— age 16 or older—currently working in a pizzeria. Register at uspizzateam.com/virtual2020.

Cash prizes awarded to top three entries: 1st prize, $1,500; 2nd prize, $1,000; and 3rd prize, $500! Feature your best pie, get some crucial practice for your next competition, and earn the traveling money to get there! All entries must be submitted by Sept. 15, 2020, to brian@pmq.com. The winner will be revealed on Facebook Live at 2 p.m. (CT), Tuesday, Sept. 22. For more information about rules and requirements, visit uspizzateam.com/virtual2020 or contact Brian Hernandez at brian@pmq.com or 662-234-5481 x. 129.

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58 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

Mark “The Cheese Dude” Todd breaks down the melting characteristics of some of pizzas’ most popular cheeses— and the science behind how it works. BY TRACY MORIN

Outside of old-school plain-tomato pies, cheese has always been a fundamental component of pizza. But creative operators have gone far beyond traditional mozzarella when experimenting with recipes—adding flavor-packed varieties like feta and Gorgonzola, as well as marvelous melters like cheddar and Jack.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

Mozzarella remains the king of pizza cheeses, but it’s often combined with small amounts of other varieties for improved performance and flavor. CALIFORNIA MILK ADVISORY BOARD

When young and mild, provolone is almost identical to whole-milk, lowmoisture mozzarella; more culture in provolone adds more flavor, but the texture and how it cooks is a close copy.

As an independent contractor working with, among others, the U.S. Dairy Export Council and the California Milk Advisory Board, Mark Todd, based in Monte Rio, California, has certainly earned his designation as “The Cheese Dude.” Here, he delves into the science behind the melting characteristics of popular pizza cheeses and how just the right combination can add improved coverage, flavor, browning—or all of the above. HOW MELT HAPPENS

As Todd explains, melting characteristics depend on a combination of factors: fat content, the amount of protein bonding or breaking down that occurs with age, and the pH and salt levels of the cheese. For example, feta’s pH and salt content are the main reasons it doesn’t melt well. But cheeses like cheddar can change over time—young cheddar, such as in curd form, has an extremely tight protein bonding, so it’ll soften without melting and flowing; six months or more aged, cheddar’s protein bonding breaks down and the pH changes, so it’s more flow-friendly. If you remove the water out of cheese and measure only fat and protein, a standard whole-milk cheese is about 50-50 fat and protein. Part-skim cheese, like a mozzarella or Parmesan, has less cream, giving it more protein than fat. The ratio between fat and protein will determine how it browns and flows. High-protein cheese browns really well but does not offer a lot of flow; a high-fat cheese flows beautifully but resists browning. Hence, many pizzerias use all part-skim or mostly part-skim for browning with 10% to 25% whole-milk cheese blended in for added melt and flow, Todd notes.

PASTA FILATA

Both mozzarella and provolone fit under the cheese type called pasta filata, made with curds that are spun and twisted, for an end product that pulls apart like chicken breast. Originally, in Italy, mozzarella was made from buffalo milk, designed to be eaten the day of making—first starting out with a texture of custard, turning into a more cheese-like product within eight hours or so. Later, it was kept fresh in water for selling in cities. Today, two versions exist in Italy—mozzarella that’s highmoisture and very fresh, made with buffalo milk, or fior di latte, made with cow milk. In the United States, most makers use cow milk for “fresh mozzarella.” But when Americans wanted to bring pizza to the States, low-moisture mozzarella, made in blocks, took over in the pizza industry for ease of shipping. Now, low-moisture (both part-skim and whole-milk) mozzarella can be uniquely designed by manufacturers for functionality—designed to cook exactly the way the operator wants, taking into account factors such as blistering, color and oven type and temperature. Fresh mozz melts beautifully but has a high moisture content, so it’s best dried before

60 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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Blue and smoked cheeses offer the biggest bang for your buck on flavor enhancement. Blue cheese can be crumbly or spreadable, depending on the style; Gorgonzola is earthier, while blues are more sharp or piquant. using, Todd says. Meanwhile, low-moisture types have minimum butterfat requirements for labeling—a minimum of 45% for whole-milk and 30% to 44% for part-skim. Traditionally, provolone is made in the way of mozzarella, by spinning the curds, pulling and stretching, which lends strength and a springy texture. But, unlike pizza-style mozzarella, provolone will age over weeks, months or even many years. When young and mild, it’s almost identical to whole-milk, lowmoisture mozzarella; more culture in provolone adds more flavor, but the texture and how it cooks is a close copy. Therefore, for those who want to add flavor without changing texture, mild provolone is a good choice. But Todd prefers a one-year-old style, which provides an intense “Italian deli” flavor and more bite—simply use as you would a blue or smoked cheese, in a very small percentage, like 10% or 15%. To add more flow for melting, a Fontina or Jack can be used in combination with an older provolone. FLAVOR ENHANCERS

Parmesan is a part-skim cheese, so it doesn’t provide melt and flow, and it’s extremely low-moisture, so you’ll get the best return on investment by adding immediately post-bake. Cooking will dry out its small amount of moisture, but a pizza fresh out of the oven will heat it, adding aroma without completely destroying the cheese. However, Todd points out, blue and smoked cheeses offer the biggest bang for your buck on flavor enhancement. Blue cheese can be crumbly or spreadable, depending on the style used; Gorgonzola tends to be earthier, while blues are more sharp or piquant. Crumbliness vs. spreadability tends to be dictated by age and temperature (colder temps create a more crumbly texture). Even if crumbled, when cooked, blue cheese melts instantly, like butter, lending a rich mouthfeel. And, above a certain temperature, blue cheese enzymes break down to create a milder aroma and flavor. Meanwhile, using 10% smoked cheese creates the aroma reminiscent of open-fire cooking when melted—which kicks off a hardwired brain reaction that actually makes the mouth water and whets the appetite. Cheddar is one of the most common pizzeria cheeses, often used in blends at a 10% to 20% ratio, as mild cheddar is inexpensive and adds a pop of color. Hence, when cooked, pizzas with cheddar look browner and richer, which increases visual appeal. Mild, young cheddar keeps its shape when sliced and softens without running—making it perfect for applications like burgers. But as it ages to six months or a year, its flow increases, so it melts exceptionally for use in a cheese sauce, for example.

62 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

Pizzeria operators often add cheeses to their basic mozzarella mix to create more favorable results during cooking, such as better browning characteristics.

Finally, pepper Jack and other flavored Jack varieties melt wonderfully (as does plain Monterey Jack), but with the added benefit of a punch of flavor—even though the chili peppers in a pepper Jack will lose some of their fire when cooked, they’ll still bring a good amount of heat to spicy pies. Jack, with its fairly high moisture and butterfat content, also readily picks up the flavors of other ingredients, making it ideal for flavored formats. SOFT TOUCHES

Ricotta is another popular addition to pizzas. Meaning “recooked,” ricotta was traditionally made by boiling whey left over from the mozzarella-making process, then adding an acid like lemon juice, which pulls a secondary protein out of the whey. That protein floats to the top and is skimmed off for ricotta.

Today, manufacturers work differently, offering part-skim, whole-milk and fat-free types, which each create various cooking characteristics. The fat-free type is grainy and can be compared to fat-free cottage cheese, but without creaminess; whole-milk is soft, delicate and melts well due to its higher fat and water content. For those desiring a crumbly texture that will brown slightly (like a feta would), part-skim or fat-free is best. And, since ricotta is also ideal for cross-utilizing in Italian pasta dishes like lasagna, an operator must also determine the level of creaminess desired for that section of the menu, if applicable. Finally, soft cheeses like Brie and Camembert also melt like butter and can be added on pizza with or without the rind, depending on the texture and flavor desired. Tracy Morin is PMQ’s senior copy editor.

ONE TO AVOID

Mark “The Cheese Dude” Todd emphasizes there’s one cheese you’ll never see on a pizza—and for good reason. When Swiss cheese (also known as Emmentaler) melts, this part-skim type loses what little fat it has, and when it cools, its texture becomes “like shoe leather,” he says. The official term is “post-melt chew,” and reheating Swiss will lead to a very dense, rubbery outcome—a surefire disaster for leftovers.

SEPTEMBER 2020 | PMQ.COM

PIZZERIA OPERATORS TURN HEADS WITH MELTY MENU ITEMS SMART MARKET