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www.spurseattle.com
www.thecoterieroom.com
www.tavernlaw.com
www.mccrackentough.com
Menu Highlights Appetizers (Antipasti)
Bruschetta Volterrana (Bruschetta Volterrana) Tuscan bread slices topped with a mushroom and truffle puree and minced artichokes
5411 BALLARD AVE NW | SEATTLE, WA 98107 (206) 789-5100 | WWW.VOLTERRARESTAURANT.COM
DINNER:
MON-THU 5PM-10PM FRI-SAT 5PM-11PM / SUN 5PM-9PM
BRUNCH:
SAT-SUN 9AM-2PM
HAPPY HOUR:
MON-FRI 4:30 PM TO 6:30 PM
The Volterra Drawing Room is now open! Plan your next party of 12-85 in our private event space.
Accolades Best Italian Restaurant 2010 & 2007 - Seattle Magazine Zagat “Top Restaurants in the United States: 2006 and 2007” Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, & 2011 Best Italian 2007 - Seattle Citysearch Editors Choice Best New Restaurant 2006 - Seattle Magazine Best Outdoor Dining 2006 - Seattle Citysearch Best Chef Inspired Restaurant 2006 - Seattle Metropolitan Magazine
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
“Oil” Soup (Zuppa all’ Olio della Villa Otium) Cannellini bean soup with croutons and a generous drizzling of Tuscan organic extra virgin olive oil (non-vegetarian) Homemade “Little Bite” Selection (Antipasti Assortiti) Daily selection of Chef Don’s seasonal antipasti items, price per person Mussels and Sausage (Cozze e Salsiccia) Mussels and house made Italian sausage steamed in a spicy tomato sauce; served with roasted garlic bruschetta
Roasted Beet and Arugula Salad (Insalata di Bietole) Roasted organic beets, baby arugula, and toasted walnuts tossed in balsamic vinaigrette and topped with aged Asiago cheese
Noodles and Rice (Pasta e Risotto)
Sausage and Borlotti Bean Risotto (Risotto alla Panissa) Carnaroli rice simmered with house made sausage, pancetta, Cranberry beans, plum tomatoes and topped with Pecorino Toscano Roasted Eggplant Pouches (Agnolotti di Melanzane) House made organic egg pasta filled with roasted eggplant, ricotta salata, roasted garlic, and basil tossed in a spicy tomato ragu and topped with Sicilian pecorino pepato
Salads
Pork Jowls and Wild Mushrooms (Tagliolini con Guanciale e Funghi Selvatici) House made organic egg pasta tossed with house cured smoked pork jowls, locally harvested wild mushrooms, truffle butter and organic parmigiano reggiano
House Salad (Insalatina della Casa) Baby arugula, shaved fennel and Parmigiano Reg giano tossed in Chianti vinaigrette and sprinkled with fresh chives
Dungeness Crab Ravioli (Ravioli coi Granchi) House made organic egg pasta filled with Dungeness crab and mascarpone tossed in a light tomato cream topped with baby mache
Polenta and Wild Mushrooms (Polenta con Funghi) Fontina filled polenta custard with a truffle scented wild mushroom ragu
(Insalati)
Apple and Goat Cheese Salad (Insalata di Mela al Balsamico) Balsamic apple and tart cherries tossed with mixed greens and a fig honey vinaigrette topped with toasted pine nuts and goat cheese
Entrees
(Piatti Forti)
Crispy Herb Chicken (Pollo alla Diavola) Boneless organic half chicken marinated in fresh herbs and seared to a crispy golden
brown; served with Volterra mashed potatoes and seasonal market vegetables (Cook Time 25 Minutes) *Beef Tenderloin Medallion (Filetto di Manzo) Grilled natural beef tenderloin draped in housemade lardo, and topped with a rosemary, garlic, Chianti, and demi-glaze sauce; served with Volterra mashed potatoes, and seasonal market vegetables *Wild Boar Tenderloin with Gorgonzola Sauce (Cinghiale al Gorgonzola) Wild boar tenderloin roasted and served with a gorgonzola and mustard sauce, rosemary roasted Yukon Gold potatoes and seasonal market vegetables Braised Lamb Shank (Coscie d’ Agnello) Anderson Valley Lamb Shank braised with rosemary and green olives, served with creamy buckwheat polenta and dusted with olive caper gremolata Seafood Stew (Zuppa di Pesce) Manila clams, mussels, prawns and the day’s fresh fish in a saffron scented tomato broth with toasted almonds, fresh fennel; served with toasted Tuscan bread and saffron aioli Herb Marinated Pork Ribeye (Costoletto di Maiale) Grilled pork ribeye with Cranberry beans, cauliflower, smoked tomatoes, and topped with goat cheese cream sauce
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VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE
Restaurant Key 37 33 20 13 43 9 49 29 13 31 20 47 29 9 11 43 29 7 9 47 13 21 20 7 43 9 9 49 11 43 49 21 37 45 21 33 7 20 7 39 37 21 49 43 11 45 29 43 31 31 37 19 13 21 33 43 29 33 29 39 49 47 19 13 33 35 11 39 21 21 35 43 20 35 45 20 35 35 45 24 24 31 45 33 19 29 39 49 37 33 24 24 11 19 7 47 47 24 39 19 33
Al Boccalino The Alibi Room Ba Bar Bengal Tiger Ben Thanh Black Pearl Blazing Bagels Blind Pig Bistro The Boar’s Nest Brave Horse Tavern B&O Espresso Budapest Bistro Café de Lion Café Javasti Cafe Munir Cajun Crawfish Canlis Chiang’s Gourmet Coa Mexican Eatery & Tequileria The Crab Cracker Delancey Dom Polski Dot’s Delicatessen El Norte El Paisano Rosticeria Y Cocina Fiddler’s Inn Flying Squirrel Pizza Co. Gabriel’s Fire Gainsbourg Geraldine’s Counter Grinder’s Hot Sands Hana Henry’s Taiwan Plus Hitchcock The Honey Hole Il Corvo Indo Cafe Joule Kaffeeklatsch Katsu Burger Kau Kau Kingfish Cafe La Boucherie La Medusa Latona Pub Little Sheep LloydMartin Locöl Barley & Vine Macrina Bakery Madison Park Conservatory Maekawa Mamma Melina Marcello Ristorante Marination Matt’s in the Market Meander’s Kitchen The Melting Pot The Metropolitan Grill Mezcaleria Oaxaca Mike’s Noodle House Naan -n- Curry Noodle Boat Nook Ocho Okinawa Teriyaki Oriental Mart Phinney Market Pub & Eatery Pho So 1 Plum Bistro Poquitos Piroshky Piroshky Queen’s Deli Revel RN74 Roxbury Lanes Roxy’s Diner Salumi Seatown Seattle Roll Bakery 611 Supreme Skillet Sky City Spiced Spur Staple & Fancy Sushi Kappo Tamura Tai Tung Taster’s Wok Tat’s Deli Tavolàta Taylor Shellfish Terra Plata Than Brothers Totem House Toyoda Sushi Trellis Udupi Cafe and Chaat Corner Via Tribunali Viengthong The Walrus and the Carpenter Where Ya At Matt
COVER BY INVISIBLE CREATURE
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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kayley kirmse
Toyoda Sushi
L ak e C it y Don’t judge a book by its cover: Step in off this gritty stretch of Lake City Way into the aquamarine-painted, candlelit oasis eL Norte. The tiny kitchen cranks out just a handful of taqueriastyle food items, but there’s sweet and tangy ceviche, chunky guacamole, tacos in housemade tortillas, and baskets of thin, just-fried tortilla chips. The nachos alone are worth a stop. Crisp chips are slathered in creamy refried beans, topped with melted jack cheese, jalapeños, guacamole, onions, tomatoes, and sour cream. Come for the food, stay for the drinks: Several premium tequilas are available, plus Negra Modelo from Mexico and Veltins from Germany on draft. SONJA GROSET 13717 Lake City Way N.E.. 954-1349. elnorteloungeseattle.com $ The darling of downtown Lake City, kaffeekLatsCh is a bright spot in a strip of uninspired businesses, banks, and empty storefronts. The bustling cafe is fast embodying its namesake—a conversational gathering spot—in a neighborhood where a social hub is more than welcome. Owned by former Columbia City Bakery manager Annette Heide-Jessen and baker Brian Hensley, German pastries are scratch-made daily. Some universally loved baked goods— like fat cinnamon buns, breakfast biscuits with egg and sausage, and banana bread— star on the menu. Other staples include perfectly chewy pretzels and Blechkuchen, a traditional German pastry with bursts of fresh raspberry folded into layered dough. The coffee’s from True North roasters. SARA BILLUPS 12513 Lake City Way N.E., 462-1059, kaffeeklatschseattle.com $ The only Lake City restaurant with a wait on Friday and Saturday nights, toyoda sushi does not disappoint. Its rice-paper-covered windows and traditional Japanese fare rival the looks and tastes of the best spots in the ID. The mackerel maki wrapped with fresh ginger and scallions shines with clean and vibrant flavors, and pescephobes
will relish classic avocado rolls and a warming udon with tempura veggies and fried egg that remedies Seattle’s rainy season. Toyoda’s prices are on the high end, but you’re paying for filling portions and total quality here. SARA BILLUPS 12543 Lake City Way N.E., 367-7972 $$
N o r t h g at e Housed in an honest-to-goodness strip mall—complete with a Supercuts and a doughnut shop—iNdo Cafe serves amazing Indonesian food, specifically fried chicken. Asian fried chicken has become a thing thanks to places like Portland’s Pok Pok and West Seattle’s Ma’Ono, but at Indo Cafe it’s not a gimmick, it’s just delicious: extra-crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and best topped with fiery chili paste and paired with cooling, slightly sweet coconut rice. There are other things on the menu, and everything is as authentic as it comes, but once you’ve had that chicken, the rest won’t really matter. CHELSEA LIN 543 N.E. Northgate Way, 361-0699, myindocafe.com $$
Map L e L e af Handmade noodles are the star of the show at ChiaNg’s gourMet, a family-run restaurant tucked into the corner of I-5 and Lake City Way. The noodles can be found in some form on each of the three menus: the Americanized Chinese, filled with classics like General Tso’s Chicken; the Vegetarian; and the Chinese, pages full of authentic, expertly cooked specialties from Szechuan and nearby provinces. Despite the dingy exterior and slight lack of ambience, a byproduct of being housed in a former A&W, the meat and vegetables are bright and fresh, prepared in ways that showcase their taste. A quick conversation with the friendly, spiky-haired hostess will always yield a few suggestions for what’s best that day. NAOMI BISHOP 7845 Lake City Way N.E., 527-8888, chiangsgourmet.com $
Best RestauRants
happy hour bites Seattle Met Magazine
38 essential RestauRants 2012 eater Seattle
206 623.2101
lecosho.com
located on Harbor StepS · 89 UniverSity Street
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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We do catering and delivery every day from 5pm-10pm. 4750 California Avenue SW - West Seattle, Washington
www.bangbarthai.com
Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm • Fri & Sat 11am-midnight : Happy Hours: Everyday 3pm-6pm • Fri & Sat 10pm-midnight
When the Mexican-inspired Coa MexiCan eatery & tequileria opened in 2011, it filled a niche in the hood that badly needed to be. Taking its name from a device used in agave harvesting, Coa presents artful riffs on south-of-theborder classics. Be forewarned: If you’re craving slop Mexican, keep walking; Coa’s mole is served sans tortillas with crispy kale and fragrant rice and beans. Enchiladas verde are stuffed with chicken, cauliflower, and cheese, then smothered in a cream sauce that hits the right balance of rich and verdant. Expect little touches, like salsa speckled with hominy and gluten-free tostones filled with green plantains. And with Coa’s tarty $5 house margaritas coming in at less than 100 calories, ordering a second round is a nobrainer. SARA BILLUPS 7919 Roosevelt Way N.E., 522-6179, coatequileria.com $$ Joining its siblings in Seward Park and Ballard, Flying Squirrel Pizza Co.’s Maple Leaf location is a welcome addition to northeast Seattle. Expect inventive toppings, like housemade sausage and local-when-possible veggies, all without trying too hard. Owned by former Visqueen bassist Bill Coury, the longtime Seattle resident’s rock roots come through in custom pies like the Eartha Kitt, topped with spinach, garlic, ricotta, marinated portos, and cracked pepper. Or build your own, with toppings including fresh pineapple, Mama Lil’s peppers, and Salumi’s coppa. And don’t forget the cheese bread, a nostalgic gut bomb reminiscent of the best East Coast hole-in-the-wall varieties. SARA BILLUPS 8310 Fifth Ave. N.E., 524-6345, flyingsquirrelpizza.com $
W e d gWo o d BlaCk Pearl , a narrow sliver of a dining room tucked inside a Wedgwood strip-mall block, isn’t much to look at, and some of the food is admittedly Americanized—I’m pretty sure neither the Sichuans nor the Hunans put cranberries
in their chicken or balsamic vinaigrette on their fish—but a majority of the menu is authentic and delicious. The General Tso’s Chicken is made with fat chunks of white meat and is appropriately spiced; the mu shu pork is studded with fresh sautéed veggies and wood ear mushrooms; and, best of all, the hand-rolled chow mein noodles are satisfyingly thick, starchy, and filling. ERIN K. THOMPSON 7347 35th Ave. N.E., 526-5115, blackpearlchinese cuisine.com $$ Off the maps of both coffee geeks and tourists, CaFé JavaSti is not pushing the coffee industry into the fifth wave, but it is offering a thoughtful alternative to Starbucks in ’burby Wedgwood, which may be just as important. Recently remodeled and expanded, Javasti delivers well-prepared espresso drinks with beans supplied by Olympia’s Batdorf & Bronson. Lines form on the weekends for Javasti’s freshly baked pastries and sweet and savory crepes. The Nutella, banana, and almond crepe is a discovery of tastes and textures, and the mushroom, pesto, tomato, and mozzarella crepe is filling enough to share. SARA BILLUPS 8617 35th Ave. N.E., 204-0255, javasti.com $ That shingled wooden shack you’ve driven by on 35th isn’t someone’s tool shed; it’s the Fiddler’S inn. And despite being tucked away in the northern reaches of Wedgwood, it’s usually not as quiet as it looks from the outside, either: By evening, a crowd of easygoing regulars pack the place. The beer selection here—which is sometimes literally scrawled on the back of some scrap paper, wrinkly from being passed around the room all night—is aces, boasting up to 15 local brews. The kitchen does just as well by its towering mound of Firehouse #40 nachos and crusty, handtossed pizzas, which, appropriately for pub fare, are wonderfully messy, gooey, and oozing with melted cheese. ERIN K. THOMPSON 9219 35th Ave. N.E., 525-0752, 3pubs.com/Fiddler $
“MORE AUTHENTIC THAN SOME PIZZERIAS IN NAPLES.” SUNSET MAGAZINE
Café Javasti
PRIVATE PARTIES • SPECIAL EVENTS • MOBILE CATERING
CAPITOL HILL•QUEEN ANNE Sy Bean
GEORGETOWN•FREMONT VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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LOYAL H E I G H T S Tucked away in a far corner north of Ballard, serving a cuisine that’s not too common in Seattle, it’s a hard road for CAFE MUNIR. But even those who can’t find Lebanon on a map will find beauty in its simple Mediterranean cuisine. From hummus (in three varieties) to more complicated dishes like Egyptian koshary, Cafe Munir stays true to its roots while establishing itself as an excellent neighborhood restaurant. The early seating flows noisily with family dining, yet in the late evening the atmosphere grows quietly romantic under the intricately beautiful light fixtures. NAOMI BISHOP 2408 N.W. 80th St., 783-4190, cafemunir. blogspot.com $
G R E E N WO O D Imagine if Marion Cotillard had been your French 101 teacher. It would have most likely changed from a subject you’d have been reluctant to study to an attractive, seductive presentation from which you’d walk away with a lifelong curiosity for all things French. So goes dinner at GAINSBOURG, which makes what could be an overwhelming introduction to French cuisine simple, appealing, and affordable. With items like the $3 happy-hour escargots and the poulet confit (chicken poached in duck fat) for a mere $9, Gainsbourg promotes sensible sampling—not to mention the house’s nine varieties of absinthe, which will leave you feeling as giddy and lightheaded as an afternoon with Cotillard herself. MA’CHELL DUMA LAVASSAR 8550 Greenwood Ave. N., 783-4004, gainsbourglounge.com $$
G R E E N L AK E The LATONA PUB is not another hipster bar, thank you very much. Owned by the team behind Wedgwood’s Fiddler’s Inn and Capitol Hill’s Hopvine, the Latona churns out seriously tasty com-
fort food from a well-loved, closet-sized kitchen. Crispy green-chile quesadillas, colossal helpings of mac and cheese, duck confit with fig and chevre, and momstyle Painted Hills meatloaf and mashed potatoes will satisfy even the hungriest beer bellies. The revolving wine and beer selection showcases Northwest varietals and microbrews, and the no-nonsense staff is the right mix of efficient and friendly. Live jazz on Fridays. SARA BILLUPS 6423 Latona Ave. N.E., 525-2238, 3pubs. com/latona.html $ Since the first location opened on Aurora in 1996, the THAN BROTHERS chain has been growing in the greater Seattle area at a rate nearly equivalent to a store a year. The recently opened Kirkland joint is #14, and should have included the chain’s ceremonial crowning as the undisputed kings of Emerald City pho. The two keys to its success: the broth, flavorful enough to stand on its own and lending itself to numerous “pho-cessories” and a tabletop assortment of squeezable sauces, and the legendary cream puffs (three for $1.50)— light, fluffy, and consistently delicious. MA’CHELL DUMA LAVASSAR 7714 Aurora Ave. N. and other locations, 527-5973, than brothers.com $
PHINNEY RIDGE A Northwest-inspired restaurant located in a former neighborhood grocery, PHINNEY MARKET PUB & EATERY’s fresh interiors are polished up with Tolix chairs, a communal table crafted from Alaskan reclaimed wood, and trendy wallpaper that makes everybody look a little cooler. A self-proclaimed family restaurant, Phinney Market is big enough to accommodate children on one side of the room near a builtin play corner and kid-free diners near the bar. Tuck into pork loin topped with mango-apple chutney, polenta-crusted vegetable tarts cozied up to a mound of greens, or juicy jerk chicken on thick challah. SARA BILLUPS 5918 Phinney Ave. N., 219-9105, phinneymarketpub.com $
2011 Seattle Weekly Winner, Best Greek. 2009 Evening Magazine Winner, Best Mediterranean 2012 Named Best Ballard Restaurant by the Ballard Restaurant Project Featured in Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle
Plaka Estiatorio brings authentic Athenian Greek cuisine to Ballard!
Than Brothers
WWW . PLaKaBaLLaRD . COM KAYLEY KIRMSE
FOR MORE INFORMATION GOOGLE PLAKA ESTIATORIO
5407 20TH AVE NW • 206-829-8934 VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
11
our Matinees are 3 times the fun! Join us for
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
R o o s e ve lt Among the many local Indian restaurants offering cheap lunch buffets and serviceable delivery options, just one place (this side of Lake Washington, anyway) serves the sort of Indian food worthy of a reservation and a cloth napkin: Bengal tigeR . The Roosevelt eatery, bereft of the usual kitschy crap typical of Indian restaurants everywhere, is casual enough to be family-friendly, yet nice enough to be a suitable date-night destination (assuming your companion won’t mind curry breath later). Call ahead to order the Kashmiri chicken for two or the Kurzi lamb, meant to serve up to six. And for last-minute diners, there’s the requisite lunch buffet, too. CHELSEA LIN 6510 Roosevelt Way N.E., 985-0041, bengaltigerwa.com $$ Diners come to MaRcello RistoRante for the brawny Bolognese and delicate penne ai gamberi, saturated with a garlicky, Madeira-spiked tomato cream sauce and garnished with pancetta, artichokes, and plump shrimp. But mostly they come to this genteel restaurant for love. On weekend nights, nearly every table is set for two, since brothers Marcello and Dario Magaletti’s legendary patience doesn’t extend to the fashion for waxing ironic about candlelight, Chianti, and deferential service. To keep the mood in the evocatively rustic dining room romantic, the kitchen finds room in many of its excellent dishes for a splash of white wine or Madeira. HANNA RASkIN 7115 Roosevelt Way N.E., 527-4778, marcelloseattle.com $$
B al l aR d Ballard is in the midst of a barbecue boom, but the BoaR’s nest separates itself from the pack in a variety of ways, not least of which is its name, a reference to the watering hole in The Dukes of Hazzard. The owners hail from Tennessee and
South Carolina, and their Southern roots show, especially when it comes to the way they do ’cue. The brisket sandwich (an absolute steal at $7) is served on two toasted slices of plain white bread, piled with steaming hunks of juicy, slow-cooked beef as tender as a Tammy Wynette ballad. The dry-rubbed ribs are served with sauce on the side (with a half-dozen regional varieties from which to choose), and the meat just barely clings to the bone. Even the salad is carnivorous: The “Pig in the Garden” is a mound of greens topped with pulled pork. kEEGAN HAMILTON 2008 N.W. 56th St., 973-1970, ballardbbq.com $ It’s been more than two years since blogger/author Molly “Orangette” Wizenberg and her husband/pizzaiolo Brandon Pettit opened delancey, their muchapplauded pizzeria on an otherwise sleepy stretch of north Ballard. Though the hype has died down, the wait for a table on a Saturday evening still usually tops an hour, due largely to the chewy perfection of the pizza crust that blisters ever so gently in Pettit’s oven—though Wizenberg’s chocolate-chip cookies topped with gray sea salt are certainly worth a visit of their own accord. CHELSEA LIN 1415 N.W. 70th St., 838-1960, delanceyseattle.com $$ A tiny Market Street tapas spot, ocho isn’t singlehandedly responsible for the classing-up of Ballard, but it sure deserves props. Ocho showcases premium cocktails like the Sagrada Familia, as well as small plates like prosciuttowrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese and drizzled with a balsamic reduction and the Huevo del Diablo—a perfectly devilled egg with salmon roe, fried capers, and tomato dust. With plates ranging from $2.50 to $9, Ocho can accommodate any budget, and its impressively opulent yet fairly priced delicacies insure repeated patronage. MA’CHELL DuMA LAVASSAR 2325 N.W. Market St., 784-0699, ochoballard.com $$
Ocho
Grand Opening!
At La Lot you will experience a mix of delightful street food and traditional Vietnamese dishes in a vibrant and modern setting.
Traditional Vietnamese & Fusion Cuisine Inspired by and named after the wild betel leaf, la lot is used often in Vietnamese cuisine, featuring a profound fragrance it brings forth subtle notes of peppery, smoky and mildly bitter tastes.
Steven Miller
925 Stewart Street | Downtown Seattle 206-682-8811 | www.lalotseattle.com VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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Black Heron SpiritS
Visit our Tasting Room!
We're open 12-5 (closed on Mondays)
8011 Keene Road / West Richland, WA 99353 / 509-967-0781 / www.blackheronspirits.com
masters o
of the mix THE SPIRIT OF WHIDBEY ISLAND
.,
LOGANBERRY LIQUEUR For purchase information, please visit our website
www.whidbeydistillery.com Email us at info@whidbeydistillery.com or contact us directly at 360-321-4715.
Top 50 bars in the nation ~ Food and Wine Top 13 in the nation ~ MSN, delish.com Top 10 in the nation ~ USA Today
robroyseattle.com 2332 2nd Ave | 4pm-2am everyday
masters o ˆ
Restaurant and Bar
The food at La Bete focuses on continental European and Mediterranean Cuisine, as well as one of the best burgers in town! Mondays pop up restaurant features rotating international cuisine, and a full bar with hand crafted cocktails every day of the week. 100 different wines, 100 different kinds of booze, plenty of beer
Open 7 Days a Week 5pm til Close Kitchen Open 5-11 Happy Hour 5-6:30 T-F Except Sunday and Monday 5-10
1802 Bellevue Avenue (at Howell) (206) 329-4047 www.labeteseattle.com
Urban Tiki House
and Taiwanese Cantina
1024 East Pike Street - (206) 860-4238
chinosseattle.com
of the mix
CRAFT COCKTAILS • SMALL PLATES • ROCKIN’ HAPPY HOUR
SOUTH LAKE UNION 1170 REPUBLICAN ST. (206) 682-7632 ROWHOUSECAFE.COM
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www.skiprockdistillers.com 425.330.4885
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1401 BROADWAY • CAPITOL HILL 206.466.5989 • www.8ozburgerbar.com
Mocha Shake
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Visit us at: Bellevue Place, Bellevue Square, or Lincoln Square
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
TullysCoffeeShops.com 800-MY-TULLY © 2013 TC Global, Inc
Staple & Fancy
Kevin P. Casey
Chef Ethan Stowell’s Ballard outpost, Staple & Fancy, flawlessly cranks out everything from pork cheeks and gnocchi to whole grilled fish and fried oysters. Stowell knows diners will have a hard time narrowing their choices, so there is a $45 “fancy” menu available, which puts the decision in the kitchen’s hands. Your entire table has to participate in the family-style fourcourse feast, but your participation will be rewarded. Each course includes anywhere from two to four dishes, depending on your party’s size. Let the staff know if there’s anything you don’t or can’t eat, and sit back and let the feasting begin. SONJA GROSET 4739 Ballard Ave. N.W., 789-1200, ethan stowellrestaurants.com/stapleandfancy $$$ The fear that Ballard’s totem HouSe, a lodge-shaped landmark that opened in 1939 as a Native American curio shop, would vanish from the neighborhood landscape after its resident fish-and-chips restaurant closed in 2010 was matched only by the fear that whomever inherited the structure wouldn’t honor its legacy. Those worries were allayed last year by Jim and Babe Shepherd of the hyper-successful Red Mill Burgers, who spent six months renovating the building. And for all the thought that went into decisions involving cedar and linoleum, the brother/sister pair didn’t neglect the cod: Red Mill Totem House makes a mean plate of fish and chips, perfectly seasoned and cleanly fried. HANNA RASkiN 3058 N.W. 54th St., 784-1400, red millburgers.com/redmilltotemhouse.htm $ New York has Carnegie Deli, Los Angeles has Pink’s, and Seattle has tHe WalruS and tHe carpenter, a restaurant that reveals its location as surely as a sextant. Chef Renee Erickson of Boat Street Cafe meant to summon French elegance with her Ballard oyster bar, but the smallplates, no-reservations retreat instead beautifully evokes the neighborhood’s flinty maritime past and the current conscientious mind-set responsible for rooftop honey hives and farmers-market queues for line-caught salmon biked in from Port Townsend. The Walrus’ raw
oysters are incredible and plentiful, but the kitchen excels at bitter and brine, reliably wrenching magic from radishes, watercress, pickles, sardines, and smelt. HANNA RASkiN 4743 Ballard Ave. N.W., 395-9227, thewalrusbar.com $$$
u diStrict Like many of its neighbors on the everchanging Ave., nook isn’t refined. But why would you want it to be? The biscuit shop is a shining example of how a simple, well-executed concept can be a success. Fluffy and crispy, the egg, cheese, bacon, and tomato jam breakfast sandwich is easily enough to fill the average stomach until dinner. Try savory toppings like hearty sausage gravy, or the not-too-sweet homemade apple butter. Or you can pre-order biscuits by the dozen for a measly buck apiece. If you time it wrong, you might find a sign on the door that reads “Full. Please come back later.” But there’s something about the chase. SARA BiLLUPS 4754 University Way N.E., 268-0154, nook206.com $
u n ive r S it y vi l l ag e mamma melina anchors the corner of a block-long building of modern condos and retail space near University Village. On sunny days, with the restaurant’s large glass doors open onto the expansive patio, it looks more like L.A. than the U District. Inside, tables are topped with white linens and surrounded by sleek, modern moldedplastic chairs. A wood-fired oven glows from the kitchen, turning out Neapolitanstyle pizzas with charred edges and slightly soggy centers. The pasta is made in-house, the steaks are from Painted Hills, and the portions are sizable. But as UW professors and grad students know, the bar offers one of the best—and tastiest—happy hours around: Select pizzas are $6, house wine is $14 a bottle, and the entire bar menu is slashed in half. SONJA GROSET 5101 25th Ave. N.E., 632-2271, mammamelina.com $$
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
19
JOSHUA HUSTON
Revel
WAL LI N G FO R D With all the well-deserved raves for Revel, let’s not forget the restaurant that really started it all for super-chefs Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi: JOULE. It’s East meets West as you jump about the menu, with shared small plates the way to go. Expect a symphony of bold flavors, starting with any soup (recommended: the spicy beef ) and moving on to intriguing salads, innovative kimchi, and expertly grilled fish, meats, and vegetables. JAY FRIEDMAN 1913 N. 45th St., 632-1913, joulerestaurant.com $$
FR E M O N T
Dining. Cocktails. Parties.
Rotating craft beer and Ballard’s largest selection of local and craft spirits. Happy Hour Food & Drink Specials 5 - 7pm Daily 5449 Ballard Ave NW | Seattle 98107 | 206.297.0500 | www.thebalmar.com 20
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
In the era of Meatless Mondays, food lovers are supposed to reserve their enthusiasm for fruits and vegetables. Ooh, kale. Aah, quince. But Robin Short and Miles James, who previously ran a West Seattle sausage cart, are determined to make it very hard for gourmands to be stylish by serving an array of extraordinary meats at DOT’S DELICATESSEN, their cozy counterservice shop. James’ experimental bent has produced beef jerky, chicharrónes, pickled-pig-feet terrine, and red-wine paté, all elevated by James’ commitment to prying memorable succulence from cows and pigs. HANNA RASKIN 4262 Fremont Ave. N., 687-7446, dotsdelicatessen.com $ The most compelling restaurant category in Seattle right now—and perhaps the one most in need of a catchy name—is the youthful, urbane, Pacific Rim–influenced cuisine on display at Marination Station, Katsu Burger, Ma’Ono, and REVEL , Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi’s thoughtfully casual Fremont eatery. People who like food tend to really like Korean food, which is often funky and bold. But Revel isn’t just drifting on gourmands’ goodwill: The kitchen plays with chancy flavor combinations, demonstrating something like genius by sandwiching chili ice cream between chocolate-chip cookies, and tempers its daredevilry with delicacy, folding thinskinned dumplings around ricotta scented
with Earl Grey tea. HANNA RASKIN 403 N. 36th St., 547-2040, revelseattle.com $S
ROXY’S DINER employs one of the city’s most enjoyable waitstaffs, a team of hard-as-nails, tatted-up babes who have no qualms about serving you a shot of whiskey and then slapping you in the face after you drink it. (Request a Restraining Order. See what happens.) If you’re nice, the girls will do a fine job of hustling your food out of the kitchen—the East Coast–style diner is best known for its stacked-high pastrami sandwich—but it’s also one of the best breakfast joints around, with crispy latke sandwiches and something called the breakfast Monte Cristo: ham, egg, and cheese sandwiched between two slices of challah French toast and topped with powdered sugar and maple syrup. Finish it all off with a mimosa— they’re $2 on weekends, and no one will hit you for drinking it. ERIN K. THOMPSON 462 N. 36th St., 632-3963, pastramisandwich.com $
C AP ITO L H I L L Here’s a restaurant-selection secret: Ask your server where he eats. In Seattle, the answer’s bound to be BA BAR, a very now Vietnamese bistro that’s endeared itself to local practitioners of the food-andbeverage trade by keeping ridiculous hours and offering unassailable versions of dishes familiar from joints that don’t bother with Draper Valley chicken, Painted Hills brisket, and organic tofu. Ba Bar serves a fantastic, flavorful pho, restorative and nuanced through the last slurp, and a mi vit tiem that resounds with duckiness. The bar is as skilled as the kitchen, mixing gorgeously balanced cocktails that rival drinks served anywhere in the city—which may also help explain why the restaurant’s so popular with off-duty servers. HANNA RASKIN 550 12th Ave., 328-2030, babarseattle.com $$ There’s only one item listed on the specials chalkboard at B&O ESPRESSO: “Landlord gives B&O one more year . . . ” (Insert a collective sigh from all Capitol Hill residents here.) The building in which the
neighborhood’s first-ever espresso coffeehouse was born more than three decades ago is scheduled for demolition this year. It’s heartbreaking, because B&O is a truly unique beast. Charming and unpretentious, it’s the sort of place where people can cozy up and converse for hours after their plates have been cleared. Best of all, the American and Mediterranean-inspired menu offers enough variety to meet the most bizarre brunch craving: chocolate pancakes, brie/ Moroccan olive omelets, and roasted eggplant sandwiches, to name a few. If you’ve never been to B&O, do yourself a favor and go this weekend. It’s a Seattle establishment you’ll want to pay your respects to before it disappears. ERIKA HOBART 204 Belmont Ave. E., 322-5028, b-oespresso.com $
STREET FARE
Here’s an unadvertised tip: THe Honey Hole always has a draft-beer special, usually something like a sweet, lovely pint of Manny’s for $3. It’s a smart move on their part, since a cold beer happens to be the perfect accompaniment to their savory, melty-hot sandwiches. There isn’t a miss among all the creatively named options—the tangy Corleone is stuffed with house-cured pastrami and sauerkraut; the Bandit is your basic favorite barbecued-beef brisket topped with coleslaw and cheddar; its counterpart, the Buford T. Justice, is a spicier variety with pulled pork and pepper jack. If the promise of cheap beer doesn’t draw you, the tantalizing aroma of all that smoked meat definitely will. ERIN K. THOMPSON 703 E. Pike St., 709-1399, thehoneyhole.com $
3pm-6pm mon-frI DIM SUM
Hana will not disappoint even the pickiest sushi eater. Despite its relatively small menu, there’s something for everyone. The chef’s choice is the sashimi combo: five kinds of sashimi with miso soup, salad, and rice. But if you’re looking for something more savory, go for the chicken teriyaki: boneless, broiled chicken in a soft and tasty sauce. If you’re a vegetarian, sample an appetizer such as edamame or the agadashi sushi, and pair it with miso soup and rice; it will be just as filling as one of the entrées your carnivorous friends will be enjoying. Overall, unlike its Capitol Hill counterparts, Hana offers quality sushi that avoids being overly Americanized. You can’t go wrong here. KATIE GILBERT 219 Broadway E., 328-1187 $
marinaTion owners Kamala Saxton and Roz Edison recently won the Seacrest Park food concession, returning the team’s sassy Korean-Hawaiian tacos and sliders to their beachy roots. But fans of the food know it doesn’t much matter where it’s served, since breathtaking flavors have a knack for transcending surroundings. Still, last year’s opening of a permanent Marination location was worth celebrating since it meant a) new occasional items, including gravy-blanketed loco moco and spam musubi, and b) beer. Even better, the menu mainstays haven’t suffered from settling down: The soy-soaked short ribs are always tender, the tofu vibrates with flavor, and the Nunya sauce is so good it’s now sold by the jar. HANNA RASKIN 1412 Harvard Ave., marinationmobile.com $
DRINKS
On Friday nights and Sunday afternoons, the community center–cum–restaurant known as Dom Polski opens its doors to anyone with a hankering for excellent Polish food who’s willing to pay a $1 “temporary membership” fee. The bar serves a variety of Polish alcohol—try the bisongrass vodka, served with apple juice—while the menu is peppered with Polish pickings like pickle soup and pierogies. Orders are taken by traditional costumed staff, who do their best to explain dishes and specialties, making it easy to navigate the menu of hearty meats, dumplings, and side dishes. Just make sure you stop at the ATM on the way—this informal clubhouse is cash only. NAOMI BISHOP 1714 18th Ave., 322-3020, polishhome.org $
If you know only one thing about the kingfisH Cafe, it’s to always save room for dessert. The gargantuan slices of scratch-made red velvet cake, seasonal fresh strawberry shortcake, and fluffy sweet-potato pie are not affected by the law of diminishing returns. Somehow each bite tastes better until the sweet, sweet end. The same goes for the Kingfish’s beloved fried chicken, melty collard greens, and fried green tomatoes. Owned by sisters Laurel and Leslie Coaston, the Southern-cooking mecca on northeast Capitol Hill celebrates its 15th year in 2012. With its wrought-iron gates and creaky wood floors, the Kingfish could easily thrive in Savannah or Montgomery. Lucky Seattle. SARA BILLUPS 602 19th Ave. E., 320-8757, thekingfishcafe.com $$
Vegan food isn’t the same as chomping into seared flesh, but it can be just as delicious, and Plum BisTro has solidified itself as one of Seattle’s best vegan restaurants by proving it. Owner Makini Howell, who admits she’s never even tasted meat, opened Plum almost three years ago because, being raised in a vegan household, she never had an upscale place to dine. “Most of our customers are not vegan or vegetarian at all,” says Howell, who explains that her carnivorous clientele has realized the flavor capabilities of vegan food. Dishes on the bistro’s menu include spicy Cajun mac and yease, quinoa and BBQ burgers, raw lasagna with walnut pesto, and hearty salads. And for brunch, the Stumptown pancakes with vegan cream sauce and chocolate is something everyone should eat at least once in their lives. JULIEN PERRY 1429 12th Ave., 838-5333, plumbistro.com $$ Bastille detractors shook their heads when news came that the design-focused team behind the French hotspot in Ballard planned to open a massive Mexican cantina in Capitol Hill. Fine: There’s no place here for humorless mossbacks anyhow. PoquiTos is an unending Mexican beach vacation, with top-shelf margs, freshly made guacamole, surprisingly elegant elotes, and a plate of chipotle garlic prawns that deserves to be mentioned in any discussion of the city’s best shrimp dishes. In a restaurant that’s a perpetual
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beneficiary of foresight—Deming Maclise and James Weimann traveled to Mexico to collect decor elements—there are, of course, housemade corn tortillas for sopping up the delectable vestigial sauce. What fun. Hanna Raskin 1000 E. Pike St., 453-4216, vivapoquitos.com $$ From its humble beginnings as a small crêperie, 611 Supreme has been serving spectacular food on Capitol Hill since 1997. If your schedule allows, visit for weekday brunch: You’ll be met with an attentive waitstaff and (weather permitting) a lovely flood of natural light. Daytime eats include the signature crêpes, quiche, and a plat du fromage: Build your own cheese plate for $3 an ounce. At night this spot transforms to an upscale eatery, where you’ll indulge in French fare for around $20 an entrée. Ma’CHell DuMa laVassaR 611 E. Pine St., 328-0292, 611supreme.com $$ The wheels came off Skillet last year, when the popular food truck settled into a permanent location. Although the namesake mobile unit is still rolling around Seattle, it doesn’t offer well-made cocktails, comfortable seating, or a roof in rainy weather, which may account for the instant popularity of the polished restaurant. But if the surroundings have changed, the classic menu of finely tuned diner fare, awash in swine and cream, is holding steady: Skillet isn’t shy about serving a chicken-fried pork chop smothered in bacon gravy or a fleecy cornmeal waffle paired with pork belly sweating maple syrup and chicken stock. Still, the winning carry-over from the operation’s road-tripping days may be the customer-focused service and playful attitude. Hanna Raskin 1400 E. Union St., 512-2000, skilletstreetfood.com $
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
taylor ShellfiSh has long been a presence on local menus as a supplier of the region’s finest oysters, clams, and mussels, but last year it expanded its Seattle footprint with a Melrose Market retail store that’s emerged as a worthy
JOSHUA HUSTON
Terra Plata
counterpart to the specialists already plying their trades there. Taylor stocks the supremely fresh shellfish prized by home cooks, but it also functions as a strippeddown raw bar, serving shucked-to-order oysters, baguettes, and chilled white wine at its high-top tables. For chilly days, there are crocks of Xinh Dwelley’s geoduck chowder and oyster stew. Like the pristine bivalves in Taylor’s tanks, the experience of eating shellfish here is pure and true. Hanna Raskin 1521 Melrose Ave., 501-4321, taylormelrose.com $ Tamara Murphy, who helped define contemporary Seattle dining at Brasa, last year reminded eaters that she intends to continue shaping the local food scene. Years in the making—thanks to unanticipated landlord tangles and renovation delays— terra plata acquired must-visit status the moment it opened, serving food that reinvigorates the farm-to-table idiom. The high-spirited restaurant doesn’t shy away from ambitious preparations involving fresh shellfish and charcuterie, but is equally capable of astonishing with the most pedestrian-sounding dishes. Here are citrus-glanced beets and maple-glazed Brussels sprouts to woo veggie skeptics, and tightly knitted potato chips throbbing with ’tater flavor. The years spent waiting for to win a legal go-ahead did nothing to dim Murphy’s remarkable culinary skill. Hanna Raskin 1501 Melrose Ave., 325-1501, terraplata.com $$$ Pizza is a highly competitive category in Seattle, a city freed from the constraints of traditions that force pizzaioli in other locales to apply their tomato sauce this way or roll their dough that way. Without expectations to fulfill, brilliant pizzerias such as Serious Pie, Delancey, and Bar del Corso can focus on producing beautifully blistered, chewy crusts topped with pristine ingredients. But it’s a mistake to get too precious about pies, and Via tribunali does a terrific job of straddling the line between craftsmanship and comfort. The stylish local
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START YOUR JOURNEY HERE... INWOODINVILLE.COM
NE 195TH S
132ND AVE NE E TL
Preservation Kitchen
EXIT 23
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Customized tours of Washington’s premier wineries just 25 minutes from Seattle. Sample limited production and award-winning wines transported in comfort and style by Butler Seattle. See inwoodinville.com for details.
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Bring this Map in to any establishment and
Discover what Treasures Await You! 144TH AVE NE
522
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Pondera Guardian flying dreams baer alta Robert Ramsay Patterson Matthews Sparkman Barrage William Church
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Adams Bench
DIRECTORY TOURS & TRANSPORTATION Butler Transportation Stuart Butler 425-883-0850 www.butlerseattle.com
TASTING ROOMS ADAMS BENCH
14360 160th Place NE Tastings Saturdays by appt 425-408-1969 or schedule at www.adamsbench.com
ALTA CELLARS
19507 144th Ave NE #A-500 12-5p Sat, 1-4p Sun 425-424-9218 www.altacellarswinery
BAER WINERY
19501 144th Ave. NE, Suite F-100 Sat & Sun 1-5p 425-483-7060 www.baerwinery.com
BARRAGE CELLARS
19501 144th Ave. NE, Suite E-800 Sat & Sun 1-5p 206-251-4326 www.barragecellars.com
COLUMBIA WINERY
14030 NE 145th Street Sun-Tue 11a-6p, Wed-Sat 11a-7p 425-482-7490 or 800-488-2347 www.columbiawinery.com
DELILLE CELLARS CARRIAGE HOUSE
LACHINI VINEYARDS
14455 ‘A’ Woodinville Redmond Rd NE Mon & Sun 12-5:30p,Thu- 12–6:30p Fri & Sat 12-7:30p, Tue & Wed by appt. www.lachinivineyards.com
LONG SHADOWS
14450 Woodinville-Redmond Road #105 Thu & Sun 12–5p, Fri 12–8p, Sat 12–6p 425-408-1608 www.thelibrarywines.com
MATTHEWS ESTATE
16116 140th Place NE Daily 12-6p (Fri until 9p) 425-487-9810 www.matthewsestate.com
NOVELTY HILL & JANUIK
14710 Woodinville-Redmond Rd NE Daily from 11a–5p 425-481-5502 www.noveltyhilljanuik.com
PATTERSON CELLARS (2 locations) Woodinville Winery & Tasting Room 19501 144th Ave NE D600 Sat & Sun 12-5p 425.483.8600 Hollywood Hills Tasting Room 14505 148th Ave NE For tasting room hours, please visit www.pattersoncellars.com PONDERA WINERY
Woodinville Park N., Bld. B, Suite 400 Fri 2-6p, Sat & Sun 12-5p 425-486-8500 www.ponderawinery.com
ROBERY RAMSAY CELLARS
14421 Woodinville-Redmond Rd NE Sun-Thu 12-4:30p, Fri 12–7p, Sat 11a–4:30p 425-877-9472 www.delillecellars.com
19495 144th Ave NE #235 Fri 3-7p, Sat 2-5p, Sun 1-4p 425-686-WINE www.robertramsaycellars.com
FLYING DREAMS
14810 NE 145th St. Thu-Mon 12 to 5p (6pm on Sat) 425-485-2720 www.rossandrewwinery.com
19501 144th Ave NE, F-300 Sat & Sun 1-5p and by appt. 206-271-0057 www.flyingdreamswine.com
GOOSE RIDGE ESTATE WINERY 14450 Woodinville Redmond Rd NE, Suite 108 Daily 11a-6p 425-488-0200 www.gooseridge.com
GUARDIAN CELLARS
19501 144th AVE NE Suite E-600 Sat & Sun 12-5p 206-661-6733 www.guardiancellars.com
JM CELLARS
14404 137th Place NE Fri, Sat & Sun 12-5p 206-522-4823 www.jmcellars.com
ROSS ANDREW
SPARKMAN CELLARS (2 locations) Hollywood Hills Wine District Tasting Room 14473 Woodinville Redmond Rd Thu -Mon 1-6p 425-398-1045 Warehouse District Winery and Tasting Room 19501 144th Ave. NE, #E-400 Sat & Sun 1-5p www.sparkmancellars.com
TEFFT CELLARS
16110 Woodinville Redmond Rd NE, Suite 5 Daily 11a-7p 425.481.4081 www.tefftcellars.com
WILLIAM CHURCH (2 locations) Hollywood Schoolhouse District 14455 Woodinville-Redmond Road Sun-Thu 12-6p, Fri & Sat 12-8p 425-482-2510 Warehouse District 19495 144th Ave NE, Suite A100 Sat 12-4p, Sun by appt ww.williamchurchwinery.com
FOOD / LODGING BARKING FROG
14580 Northeast 145th Street Daily 6a-2:30p & 5-10p 425-424-2999 www.willowslodge.com
ITALIANISSIMO RISTORANTE
15608 NE Woodinville-Duvall Pl Mon-Fri 11a-close, Sat-Sun 5p–close 425-485-6888 www.italianissimoristorante.com
LE PETIT TERROIR
14455 Woodinville Redmond Rd NE Fri & Sat 12-8p, Thu, Sun, Mon 12-6p 425-296-2525 www.lpterroir.com
PRESERVATION KITCHEN 17121 Bothell Way NE, Bothell Tue-Sun 4-9p, Tue-Fri 11a-2p, weekend brunch 9a-2p 425-408-1306 www.preservationkitchen.com
PURPLE CAFÉ AND WINE BAR 14459 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE Sun-Thu 11a-9p, Fri & Sat 11a-10p 425-483-7129 www.purplecafe.com
THE STATION PIZZERIA 14505 148th Ave NE Lunch and Dinner Daily Opens Spring 2012 www.thestationpizzeria.com
WILLOWS LODGE
14580 N.E. 145th Street 425-424-3900 www.willowslodge.com
RESOURCES ExploreBothell.com InWoodinville.com
CHICKEN & SAUSAGE ZITI
mini-chain, soon to open a New York City location, makes smart Neapolitan pies with seductively puffy crusts and bright tomato sauce. Hanna Raskin 913 E. Pike St. and other locations, 322-9234, viatribunali.net $$
E a s t l ak E The city’s most blessed culinary address may be 2238 Eastlake Avenue, the stripmall storefront which housed Sitka & Spruce and Nettletown before Charles Walpole painted the room’s walls red and christened it Blind Pig Bistro. Walpole, formerly of Anchovies & Olives, is relishing the freedom of self-employment: He serves what he wants when he wants, which means that even flawless dishes tend to fall off the ever-changing menu when he tires of making them. Fortunately for diners, Walpole’s culinary choices are impeccable. His dishes are so instinctively pleasing that it’s easy to forget how much skill is required to make mackerel, turnips, chorizo, and red onions work together. Hanna Raskin 2238 Eastlake Ave. E., 3292744, blindpigbistro.com $$$ A sushi feast frequently comes with a side of self-loathing—those poor, tasty unagi are headed toward extinction—but not at sushi kaPPo tamura . The buzz surrounding this Eastlake gem comes in part from chef Taichi Kitamura’s dedication to using sustainable, guilt-free Pacific Northwest ingredients, and in part from the justifiably esteemed Kitamura himself, who first worked under Shiro Kashiba and then ran Fremont’s popular Chiso prior to opening Sushi Kappo Tamura in 2010. Do dinner right by ordering the omakase, a chef’s-choice tour through the menu’s sushi and izakaya-style small-plate offerings, and expect specialty local ingredients like Skagit River Ranch eggs and spot prawns from Puget Sound to take top billing. CHELsEa Lin 2968 Eastlake Ave. E., 547-0937, sushikappotamura.com $$
Q u E E n an n E Daisuke and Tomoyo Miura named Café dE lion (pronounced like “Leon”) after their son. It’s cozy, with just a few tables, but you’ll want counter seats in front of Daisuke, who plays mad scientist at his chemistry lab–like coffee station. His water-dripped iced coffee is the best, and he’ll pair a cup with your choice of Tomoyo’s French-style sweets (not too sweet, which is part of the Japanese influence). Healthy and seasonal, these pastries and cakes are made with the finest ingredients. Look for green-tea cheesecake, purple-sweet-potato mont blanc, colorful berry tarts, and the like—all of which tend to sell out quickly. JaY FRiEDMan 1629 Queen Anne Ave. N., 913-2125, cafedelion.com $$ The rub with Canlis is that most people think either that they can’ t afford it or that it’s for special occasions only. But Canlis can be a casual weekday hangout bereft of white linens and formal wear if you
want it to be. Lose the tie but keep your expectations intact as you take a seat in the lounge, listen to pianist Walt Wagner kick out a tasteful rendition of “1979,” and order something to eat. The Canlis family (the restaurant, passed down through generations, is now run by brothers Mark and Brian, who are usually visiting tables and charming the pants off diners) is committed to constantly improving the restaurant, and takes nothing for granted. The service is always exceptional, no matter where you sit or who you are, and the food is top-notch, a balance of innovation and tradition. Chef Jason Franey has a talent for making even the ubiquitous foie gras torchons look more beautiful than anything you could ever imagine. JULiEn PERRY 2576 Aurora Ave. N., 283-3313, canlis.com $$$ Sam Crannell’s cooking is so accomplished that his new Queen Anne restaurant will surely sail through spring, but the cozy neighborhood eatery this winter blasted chilly weather like a gust of heat from a Reznor unit. lloydmartin, a thoroughly manly joint named for Crannell’s grandfathers, has a delicious talent for game meats and big red wines: Crannell’s elk-ragù fettucine, which should be permanently exempt from seasonal rules that forbid year-round menu items, is a bold, earthy example of near-perfection, and many of his other dishes don’t lag far behind. The dimly lit restaurant briefly switched to an all-reservations system when walk-in traffic proved inadequate, then permitted walk-ins again. As more diners catch on to what Crannell’s doing, reservations may again become necessary. Hanna Raskin 1525 Queen Anne Ave. N., 420-7602, lloydmartinseattle.com $$$
Italian is more fun at Buca! Delicious, family-style food and all the fun of an Italian gathering. It’s a recipe for good times.
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4301 Alderwood Mall Blvd. 425.744.7272
SEATTLE
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Granted, it’s a chain, but unless you invest in your very own fondue set (and are responsible for cleanup afterwards), thE mElting Pot is the best place in this city to break bread over a pot of bubbling cheese. Fondue is fantastic because it forces you to slow down. Diners must spear and dip foods into the pot carefully or risk drowning an innocent broccoli floret. The Melting Pot excels at providing an interactive dining experience as suitable for a romantic date as for a group outing. Your evening is set up to be fun and unique, but never intimidating. Case in point: The friendly servers provide you with “search and rescue spoons” for items you lose in your sea of bubbling Swiss. And come dessert, if you find dipping strawberries in chocolate too suggestive, you can dunk Rice Krispies Treats instead. ERika HOBaRT 14 Mercer St., 378-1208, meltingpot.com/seattle $$ Because bottom-shelf brands come with a shriveled worm in the bottle, mezcal’s image is not especially highbrow in the eyes of many American drinkers. But in actuality, “the smoky spirit of Oaxaca” is tequila’s more refined cousin. mEzCalEria oaxaCa stocks every brand of mezcal currently available in Washington, and offers a flight of three generous pours for $15 so novices can play the field before
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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... h s fi g n i v r e s w o N
Danube Bistro
GErMan & italian SpEcialtiES D O W N T O W N
B E L L E V U E
...the bacon of the sea! PATIO DINING Seattle’s favorite burger takes over Ballard’s legendary Totem House at the Locks www.RedMillBurgers.com
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
206-784-1400
LUNCH M on -F ri 11 - 2:30 ; S at & S un 11:30-2:30 DINNER 5 - 9:30 11000 n.E. 10 th S t . • B EllEvuE , Wa 98004 (425) 452-8722 •
WWW . danuBEBiStro . coM
settling on a favorite variety. The food, meanwhile, is similar to the splendidly authentic Mexican fare served at its sister establishment, Ballard’s Carta de Oaxaca. Stellar additions to the menu include gringas oaxaqueñas, marinated, spit-roasted pork with little bits of seared pineapple, drizzled with melted Oaxacan cheese, and served as tacos in handmade corn tortillas; and barbacoa cabrito, a chili-marinated, slow-roasted goat accompanied by a queso-speckled mole negro. KEEGAN HAMILTON 2123 Queen Anne Ave. N., 216-4446, mezcaleriaoaxaca.com $$ The prices are sky-high at Sky City, the Space Needle’s revolving restaurant. But suck it up and plunk down some plastic, because there’s no more iconic landmark dining room in Seattle. Under chef Jeff Maxfield, the food’s actually worth the big bucks. For a little lighter check, go for lunch, when the crowd’s not all decked out for proms or Grandma’s 100th birthday. Order the flatbread topped with Quillisascut curado and Salumi guancale, then try some of the city’s best fish-and-chips. (The crispy batter’s spiked with Alpine pilsner.) Speaking of getting a buzz while twirling in the air, SkyCity’s wine list is full of gems from Washington. and the prices are down-to-earth. Insider tip: Sign up online and SkyCity will treat you to a meal on your birthday or anniversary. LEsLIE KELLy 400 Broad St., 905-2100, spaceneedle.com/restaurant $$$
South L ak e u n i o n The organizing principle at Brave horSe tavern, the most successful of the restaurants Tom Douglas debuted in 2011, is beer. If a dish screams for a brew, it’s probably incredibly well-made here. Initial hoopla centered on the soft and doughy Bavarian pretzels, but the menu’s studded with successful, subtly Germanic dishes that answer a drinker’s call for salt and heft. Cheese curds are fried, a bratwurst shares a plate with mashed potatoes, and a juicy burger gets a lift from its
Dahlia Bakery bun. Best of all, “tavern” isn’t a throwaway term here: The dining room, with its picnic bench–style seating and shuffleboard tables, is always upbeat and noisy. HANNA RAsKIN 310 Terry Ave. N., 971-0717, bravehorsetavern.com $$
Mad i S o n Par k Cormac Mahoney’s MadiSon Park ConServatory is a paragon of civility, befitting the ultra-luxe neighborhood which surrounds it. But the young restaurant’s refined cocktails and bespoke dining room don’t signal stodginess. Mahoney, who gained local culinary notoriety by selling inventive tacos from a wooden crate outside 14 Carrot Cafe, brings a playful streak to his very pretty dishes. In the summer, there are leggy spot prawns with nuoc cham, best enjoyed on the waterfront deck. Winter finds the kitchen pickling, braising, and grilling beef tongues—which would probably make a fine taco filling. HANNA RAsKIN 1927 43rd Ave. E., 324-9701, madisonparkconservatory.com $$$
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Seattle’s early risers can perhaps find more refined pastries at Café Besalu or Honore Artisan Bakery, and more sugary starters at any of the upscale doughnut shops, but nothing better steels a busy eater for the day ahead than MaCrina Bakery’s morning-glory muffin, a wholesome, rough-hewn handful of carrots, raisins, walnuts, apples, pineapple, and coconut. The 20-year-old bakery, the sweet-smelling manifestation of a philosophy heavy on whole grains and community connections, is like an all-grown-up 1970s cooperative, its handsome display cases crowded with consistently splendid plum rolls, monkey-bread twists, and savory scones. Beyond breakfast, Macrina makes a terrific baguette that frequently turns up in restaurant baskets. HANNA RAsKIN 2408 First Ave. and other locations, macrinabakery.com $
1974
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Join us for lunch and dinner
Happy Hour Monday-Friday from 3pm–7pm Family 4-pack Every Sunday Pizza and Four 1-Hour Time Cards*
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*Must be 18 and older after 10pm. Additional $2 activation fee required on new card purchases. Time play offer valid for video game play only - does not include photo, prize games or special attractions. Cannot be combined with other offers including in store bonus offers. Offers subject to change with or without notice.
WWW.GAMEWORKS.COM • 1511 7TH AVE • SEATTLE • 206.521.0952 VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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GORGEOUS GEORGE’S GORGEOUS
Always the consummate beacon of classy dining in Belltown since its opening in July 2008, Spur has maintained a seasoned menu of high-quality ingredients and some of the most fun food you’ll ever want to not eat because you’d rather play with it. Thanks to a knack for molecular gastronomy, proprietors Brian McCracken and Dana Tough take familiar ingredients and punch them up with a wow factor, turning ice cream into powder with liquid nitrogen or sticking an egg in the sous vide machine to create a softness you can’t get with regular poaching. Spur’s serious cocktail program has spawned rock-star bartenders like David Nelson, Nathan Weber, and Ian Cargill, to name only three. JULIEN PERRY 113 Blanchard St., 728-6706, spurseattle.com $$$
TavolàTa doesn’t need to be the new kid on the block to be sexy. What makes this Belltown restaurant all sorts of seductive is the fact that it’s been around for five years and is better than ever. The Italiandriven cuisine is helmed by chef Brandon Kirksey, the big salt in the kitchen, who at 27 is manning his crew with the fortitude of an old pro. Dishes like rigatoni, gnocchi alla romana, and the 16-ounce rib-eye steak will probably never leave the menu, but it’s Kirksey’s latest contributions that you really need to dig your fork into: the grilled cuttlefish salad, the whole branzino, or a simple side of rapini with garlic, chili, and lemon. The George Clooney of Seattle restaurants, Tavolàta really has gotten better with age. JULIEN PERRY 2323 Second Ave., 838-8008, ethanstowellrestaurants.com/ tavolata $$$
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size that is well worth your $5, especially when washed down with a $3 pint of microbrew. The location makes it an ideal pre- or post-concert stop during a night out at the nearby Showbox, and it’s not uncommon to spot musicians sneaking away from the venue to warm up or wind down at the Alibi Room’s candlelit bar. KEEGAN HAMILTON 85 Pike St. #410 (in Post Alley), 623-3180, seattlealibi.com $–$$
Mediterranean Kitchen
While waiting in line to place an order for agnolotti, tagliatelle, or any of the other hand-crafted pastas on the daily-changing menu of noodle dishes at il Corvo, flour virtuoso Mike Easton’s cash-only weekday lunch spot, a glass of wine might seem an unnecessary midday indulgence. But Easton’s extraordinary pastas and soulful sauces, wrought from whatever ingredients strike his current fancy, are too sensuous to pair with water. Easton’s creations, incongruously sold from behind the counter at a gelato shop abutting a bug museum, are vivid reminders that authenticity is a matter not only of provisions and technique, but honest appreciation. Order a glass of chianti or pinot grigio, sit, and savor. Repeat tomorrow. HANNA RASKIN 1501 Western Ave., Suite 300, 622-4280, ilcorvopasta.com $
Mediterranean Kitchen
GORGEOUS GEO
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The most gracious host in town is ready to please your palate...
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Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm
GG 111011 please 1_3s.pdf fdp.s3_1 esaelp 110111 GG MaTT’S in The MarkeT’s newly 7719 Greenwood Avenue North Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm reconfigured kitchen gives chef Chet Gerl 206-783-0116 • www.gorgeousgeorges.com and his crack crew room to work their creative juices, and the dishes coming off that 7719 Greenwood Avenue North line lately have never tasted better. Let’s start • www.gorgeousgeorges.com with the stellar headcheese, nothing like that 206-783-0116 GG 111011 please 1_3s.pdf nasty stuff Oscar Mayer puts out. This version includes succulent chunks of meat mus-GG 111011 please 1_3s.pdf cled into one neat cake sautéed to a crispy Arriving with the first wave of food trucks, gold. It’s a damn smart choice for a starter, Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat206-783-0116 5-9:30pm• www.gorgeousgeorges.com and also one of the first to bringLunch: the true Wed–Sat as are the12-2:30pm; spectacular grilled octopus, the 7719 Greenwood Avenue North food of New Orleans to the streets of Seatpiquant Dungeness crab ceviche, and, hell Avenue NorthLunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm tle, Matt Lewis’ Where Ya aT MaTT yeah, don’t7719 you dareGreenwood miss the deviled eggs. cemented its spot in Seattle’s culinary Mains are outstanding, too. Added bonus: 206-783-0116 • www.gorgeousgeorges.com scene with the festive food of Lewis’ flamMatt’s mixmasters make amazing cocktails. The most gracious host in town is ready to please your palate... boyant hometown. Keeping up with what’s And then there’s that view. Hello, beautiful fresh, both in Seattle and New Orleans, Pike Place Market. LESLIE KELLY 94 Pike St., 467-7909, mattsinthemarket.com $$$ the menu rotates nearly as often as the location, with King Cake for Mardi Gras, The dry-aged, exquisitely marbled steaks crawfish in season, the occasional pop-up at The MeTropoliTan Grill are gospel brunch, and the city’s best po’ boys the stuff of meat-eaters’ dreams. These all the time. There might be more trucks perfectly grilled hunks of flesh are one of on the road and a few other places to find the rare instances in which “melt-in-youryour shrimp and grits now, but nobody mouth tender” is not an overworked clibrings Southern charm and flavor to their ché. But for those of us not on an expense cuisine quite like Matt and his staff. NAOMI BISHOP Mondays at First Avenue and Cedar account, a tab at The Met can induce a Street; see whereyaatmatt.com for other heart attack. That’s why happy hour at the locations. $ old-school bar is so sweet. Go surf-andturf with a trio of oyster shooters and the roast-beef dip for just $6. Or get that juicy burger. With all the money you’re saving, splurge on a high-end glass of something— Tucked beneath Pike Place Market and and be nice, as the bartender might top you accessible only through an easy-to-miss off. LESLIE KELLY 820 Second Ave., 624-3287, themetropolitangrill.com $$$ door in Post Alley, The alibi rooM The most gracious host in town is ready to please your palate... is one of the better-kept secrets in downFor the vast majority of American eaters, town dining. The wood-fired pizzas stand Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm the word “ramen” implies a pale brick of up to those served by Tom Douglas a few Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm noodles wrapped in plastic and packaged blocks away at Serious Pie, largely owing 7719 Sun–Thur Greenwood 5-9pm, Avenue North with a silver packet of “Oriental Flavor” to fresh ingredients often sourced from 206-783-0116 • www.gorgeousgeorges.com 7719 Greenwood Avenue North the market above. During happy hour (3–6 bouillon. For those accustomed to instant ramen, the soup they dish up at okinaWa p.m. Mon.–Thurs., noon–6 p.m. Fri.–Sun.), 206-783-0116 • www.gorgeousgeorges.com TeriYaki is a revelation. It is a thing of those pies are scaled down to a personal
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Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm
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Lunch: Wed–Sat 12-2:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thur 5-9pm, Fri-Sat 5-9:30pm
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BAKEMAN’S
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
89 Pike St (left of pig) • Seattle WA 98101 • 360-379-0895 www.mttownsendcreamery.com
beauty served in an earthenware bowl, with a mound of grilled meat roughly the size of Mt. Fuji heaped atop the wavy, relatively thick noodles and a garden’s worth of fresh vegetables nestled beneath the cloudy, egg-infused broth. With prices ranging from $6.99 for veggie to $9.99 for tofu and shrimp, the ramen is slightly pricier than the ultra-cheap teriyaki and other (mostly deep-fried) options on Okinawa’s menu, but it’s still one of the best bangfor-your-buck lunches downtown. KEEGAN HAMILTON 1100 Western Ave., 447-2648 $
Oriental Mart had its star turn this year, when a fan persuaded Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern to deviate from his planned Pike Place itinerary for Leila Rosas’ sinigang. The soup, made with mustard greens and salmon collar, inspired Zimmern to deliver a soliloquy about fresh ingredients and simple cooking, the very attributes that for decades have drawn customers to this lunch counter in a Filipino dry-goods shop. Rosas works alongside her mother, sister, and daughter—“it’s a threegeneration restaurant run by women,” says Rosas’ mother—to produce exemplary adobos, noodles, and beef spare ribs. HANNA RAsKIN 1506 Pike Place, 622-8488 $ Open since 1992, PirOshky PirOshky is easily one of Pike Place Market’s most popular shops. But don’t let the long line that wraps around and beyond its premises discourage you: The Russian bakery’s skilled workers knead dough at a steady pace and dole out their in-demand pastries in a friendly but efficient manner. Piroshky Piroshky specializes in warm buns filled with blissful bites of apple and cinnamon, cabbage and onion, and smoked salmon paté. It’s impossible to go wrong whatever your choice. Still skeptical? Check out the store’s guest book, full of handwritten love notes from travelers from as far as Argentina, Japan, and, yes, even Russia. Anthony Bourdain is also a fan. ERIKA HOBART 1908 Pike Place, 441-6068, piroshkybakery.com $ When New Yorker writer and professional intellectual Adam Gopnik last visited Seat-
JOSHUA HUSTON
RN74
tle, he mused that what’s needed for the eating-out experience to flourish is wine, to beckon diners away from their everyday cares, and coffee, to refocus them when the meal’s concluded. Seattle excels at both ends, but there’s perhaps no better place to explore the wine side of the equation than rn74, the new downtown restaurant from Michael Mina. The French-leaning menu is terrific—and affordable at happy hour—but wine is what defines RN74, named for the road which winds through Burgundy. A giant train departure board flips to signal when significant bottles are sold, and the impeccably trained staff is ready to help customers plot their wine adventures. HANNA RAsKIN 1433 Fourth Ave., 456-7474, michaelmina.net $$$ Even in the pouring rain, saluMi is worth waiting in line for. That’s because once you’re inside, the greeting’s so warm from the seasoned pros on the sandwichmaking line. While it’s hard to pass up those swell signature sammies, it’s worth exploring under-the-radar goodies such as the hot meat plate, an assortment of carnivorous delights. Or carve out a little more time and dine in courses, starting with the fantastic soup before moving onto the daily pasta. Wanna beat the rush? Call it “linner” (lunch + dinner) and go at 3 p.m. And no, dear tourists: You’re not going to see Mario Batali at Salumi. But you will see his sister, Gina, and maybe his mom and pop, Marilyn and Armandino. LEsLIE KELLy 309 Third Ave S., 621-8772, salumicuredmeats.com $ Breakfast is the most important meal of the day for fishermen, and Tom Douglas has made sure that eaters not equipped with poles—or a knack for waking before dawn—don’t miss out on the waterfront tradition. At seatOwn, his newest restaurant in the Pike Place neighborhood, Douglas serves a fabulous breakfast menu that runs through the start of happy hour. There’s a dense congee (simmered in pork broth, crowned with a poached egg, and accompanied by the requisite Chinese doughnut), omelets folded over Beecher’s
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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the
Flagship cheese, and spine-straightening Bloody Marys goosed with pickle juice. But the real find is the kitchen’s coastal riff on an Egg McMuffin, featuring sweet Dungeness crab and avocado. Hanna Raskin 2010 Western Ave., 436-0390, tomdouglas.com $
whole thing and use that lunch break for a much-needed siesta. kEEGan HaMiLTOn 159 Yesler Way, 264-8287, tatsdeli.com $
P i o n e e r S q uar e
Other Taiwanese places may try, but Henry’S Taiwan PluS has got it nailed. Henry’s new menu makes up for what the original lacked in catering to the tastes of the inexperienced. The “Plus” in its new name is perhaps an indication that this is the food owner Henry Ku has wanted to serve the whole time, the food he misses from home—authentic dishes, minus the pussyfooting. He proudly serves a corpse-reviving Sun Spring Noodle and features a Taiwanese breakfast sold daily. Other Taiwanese restaurants may want to follow suit, but until then, you’ll still have Henry’s. TiFFanY Ran 522 S. King St., 682-0389 $$
Pioneer Square is known more for its appeal to suburban 20-somethings looking to get blind drunk than as a dynamic neighborhood where people actually live. But explore it comprehensively, and you’ll see an area well equipped to mimic a historic European town center on a sunny afternoon. Luigi DeNunzio has long seen this potential, opening, closing, and reopening a slew of Italian restaurants over the past quarter-century in an area he’s long proclaimed to be Seattle’s Little Italy. Even if that boot has never quite fit the way DeNunzio has dreamed it would, his al Boccalino is a gorgeous, friendly space in which to enjoy a surprisingly affordable two-hour lunch (accompanied by wine, naturally) a block from the sea, just like in Vernazza. MikE sEELY 1 Yesler Way, 622-7688 $$ The Cheez Whiz–slathered Philly cheesesteaks at TaT’S Deli are so tasty, cheap, and authentic that lunch-hour lines regularly stretch out the door. The restaurant’s website even has a “line cam” so customers will know how long they should expect to wait. But to beat the crowd, skip lunch altogether and try Tat’s breakfast sandwiches instead. Served on the same hefty hoagies, these gut-busters come oozing melted cheese, and are stuffed with a fried egg, grilled onions and peppers, and your choice of meat. The steak option features the same finely shredded beef that overflows from their Phillies, but the best filling might be the Italian-Copa, a thin-sliced Italian cold cut that glistens with grease after a stint in the oven. The servings are large enough that you can eat half for breakfast and save the rest for an afternoon snack—or eat the
blue glass
i n T e r naTi o nal DiSTricT
restaurant & bar
Seattle’s trying valiantly to get a handle on Southern-style smoked meat, but it’s an old hand at char siu, or Chinese pork barbecue. The best examples of the genre are served at Kau Kau, where the roasted pig makes a stunning case for salt and fat. The mahogany-hued, crisped-skin pork is juicy and fresh, and while it’s terrifically delectable served plain, it also provides the foundation for exemplary fried rices and noodle soups. The meat’s also ridiculously cheap. In addition to pork, Kau Kau roasts chickens and ducks, and will do the same for turkey on Thanksgiving by special request. Hanna Raskin 656 S. King St., 682-4006, kaukaubbq.com $ Nestled upstairs above a video-rental corner and a travel agency, MaeKawa is a counterpart of neighborhood bars in Japan, serving late-night izakaya to work-weary men in business suits. In Seattle, the crowd is different and the space is one of the International District’s best-known secrets. A constantly rotating specials board tempts loyal customers from their usual takoyaki, but regular staples keep them coming back: a warm bowl of ramen on a cold night or a
“casual and cozy… offering global comfort food” New Happy Hour menu and drink specials 4:30-6 pm
Check our website
Sunday Brunch @ 10 am
LYNNAES GOURMET PICKLES com for local retailers and online order options
704 NW 65th St 206.420.1631 www.theblueglass.net
prima a northwest bistro
A Northwest Bistro inspired by French Classics Locally sourced Seasonal Menu Stunning Views and Deck Seating Live Music Thursday Nights 360-221-4060 www.primabistro.com in historic langley on whidbey island
Alexa’s Garden Cafe Fresh Healthy Fare
Delicious Breakfasts
All day Saturday & Sunday
Dine Green!
JOSHUA HUSTON
Tat’s Deli
Inside Swanson’s Nursery 9701 15th Ave NW | Seattle, WA 98117
www.alexascafe.com open daily from 9am-5pm
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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Farm Fresh
Ingredients
French
Techniques
By the Farmer’s Market on Bainbridge
coffee roasting company
Walking Distance from the Ferry
.
.
Island
Open Lunch & Dinner Tuesday - Saturday
an italian café bar Distinct espresso and coffee drinks plus a selection of wine, beer, and light fare.
Reservations
320 Occidental Avenue South Seattle, Washington 98104 (206) 624-5847 www.caffeumbria.com
(206) 842-1633
RestaurantmMarcheBainbridge.com
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150 Madrone Lane Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
JAPANESE/HAWAIIAN SUSHI BAR & GRILL FEATURING
Brunch
Sat & Sun 9AM-3PM
“Best Bloody Marys in Ballard”
Ballard’s Best Happy Hour
Everyday twice a day 3-7PM & 10PM-Midnight
Enjoy 50% OFF Up to two entrées, burgers or sandwiches Limit one per table per visit. Beverages not included. Valid Sunday-Thursday 3-10pm until 3/31/2013
Da Best Sushi & Bento in Seattle with Curbside Pickup
“YOSH
SIZE IT!”
loco moco, kalua pork, katsu, chili n’ rice, yaki soba, nori wrapped mahi mahi, fish & chips, and pork curry n’ rice
EAT | DRINK | MUSIC | DANCE Indulge in an authentic Hawaiian and Japanese food experience
$3 HAPPY HOUR STRAWBERRY SAKE MARGARITAS | HAWAIIAN LUNCH PLATES + DJ’S | BANDS | KARAOKE WITH HUGE PRIZES! SERVING ONO GRINDS AND TROPICAL COCKTAILS 11:30AM TO LATE NIGHT EVERY NIGHT! HAPPY HOUR & LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR MONDAY & TUESDAY 5:00PM-11:30PM WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY 5:00PM-7:00PM & 9:00PM-11:30PM FRIDAY 5:00PM-7:00PM • SUNDAY 9:00PM-11:30PM
*Kid Friendly until 9pm! 5321 BALLARD AVE NW 206.784.0175 www.hatties-hat.com 38
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
2207 1ST AVE BELLTOWN 206.956.9329 OHANABELLTOWN.COM
La Casa Azul Authentic Oaxaca Cuisine
Katsu Burger
2 LOCATIONS IN SEATTLE 14419 Greenwood Ave N 1715 N 45th St www.lacasaazulrestaurant.com
JOSHUA HUSTON
filling donburi rice bowl paired with a cold Sapporo. The only thing left to say is Kanpai! TIFFANY RAN 601 S. King St., Suite 206, 622-0634 $$ Before visiting Mike’s Noodle House, I had a children’s-book conception of what I’d find in the snug International District restaurant. I imagined Mike, in a soda-jerk paper hat, ladling out long strands of stretchy wheat-flour noodles. As the joint’s many fans know, my contrived image was completely off-base. Waitresses take the orders here, and noodle service is conducted behind the scenes. And while the noodles, imported from Vancouver, B.C., are emblems of texture and flavor, it’s the congee that deserves title billing. The salty rice porridge, a canvas for ginger, soy, and green onions, is lulling and light. The varieties showcase all kinds of animals and their parts, but the dried-oyster-and-pork version is a standout. HANNA RAskIN 418 Maynard Ave. S., 389-7099 $ When I moved to Seattle and confronted the sheer number of pho joints, I secretly wished the city was served by a giant broth warehouse, supplying all the restaurants with the same soup and saving me the trouble of acquainting myself with the quirks of every pho house’s signature dish. But as Bagel Bites and Hot Pockets prove, there are serious culinary trade-offs for efficiency: Pho homogeneity would deny eaters the chance to marvel at the stupendously fresh broth at PHo so 1, a balanced soup with a beefiness that soars in the basso profondo register. From whence does this flavor come? Pho So 1 answers the question by fishing long-simmering beef shanks out of their pho pots and plopping them on customer tables. HANNA RAskIN 1207 S. Jackson St., #107, 860-2824 $ There are restaurants within walking distance of Tai TuNg that serve smarter, braver Cantonese food, yet Tai Tung will probably outlast them all. Dining at the 77-year-old restaurant is like training a spyglass on the early 20th century, when
American-born eaters were still puzzling out chop suey and chow mein. The extraordinary alchemy of soy, garlic, and ginger that thrust Chinese restaurants into the mainstream is on display in nearly every dish on Tai Tung’s very lengthy menu, which surely includes your first Chinesefood crush. For the quintessential Tai Tung experience, have your egg rolls, egg drop soup, mu shu chicken, and Peking duck at the white formica counter. HANNA RAskIN 655 S. King St., 622-7372 $
g eo r g e Tow N The most astonishing menu item at kaTsu Burger is the Mt. Fuji, a ziggurat of bacon, cheese, chicken, beef, and tonkatsu, the familiar breaded pork cutlet that provided inspiration for Hajime Sato’s new Georgetown burger joint. But if the sandwich is big, Sato’s ambitions are bigger: He intends to make the single-patty version of his spectacular fried burger a signature Seattle dish. Sato, who famously transitioned his West Seattle sushi bar, Mashiko, to an all-sustainable lineup, has smartly melded fresh ingredients, Japanese traditions, and American sensibilities in his breaded concoction. He reports that Japanese-born eaters are skittish about the bun and American-born eaters flinch at the frying, but Sato’s instincts are terrific. The juicy burgers are best enjoyed with nori-flecked fries and a green-tea milkshake. HANNA RAskIN 6538 Fourth Ave. S., 762-0752 $
FIVE FISH BISTRO
fish, chips & more
Seasonal Fresh Fish Selection 410 Broadway East 206-325-7000 Capitol Hill
www.FIVEFISHBISTRO.com R i d g e C af e y e n P h i n am S h o pp e s ’ e M a I c e C re Serving “Moo-velous” breakfast a-1-1 day. Shake & Eggs our specialty. 8am-2pm M-F 8am-3pm Sa & Su
206-782-1222
Breakfast served all day 65th & Phinney Seattle,USA
Check out our MOOVELICIOUS MENU! Visit us at: www.maescafe.com
It’s time for SEattle’s Favorite FROZEN CUSTARD STYLE ICE CREAM
M o u N T B ak e r It’s easy enough to gravitate toward familiar Thai dishes—pad thai, tom yum, etc.—at VieNgTHoNg, but if you’re a fan of the familiar, chances are you wouldn’t find yourself here in the first place. So live a little: The menu’s Thai dishes aren’t nearly as notable as its Lao ones, where sour, sweet, and (potentially atomic) heat play off each other in dishes like nam khao: a “salad” of sorts with crispy fried rice, ground peanuts, chili paste,
100’s of Flavors Served 4 at a time! Lighthouse ESPRESSO House Scratch CAKES Locally Sourced Ingredients Free Wi-Fi Comfy Space, Open Late Free Music 2nd and 4th Saturdays
Check it out at www.peaksfrozencustard.com
1026 NE 65th St. #A101, Seattle 206-588-2701 Like us on Facebook to get in on our Deals
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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STOPS Chuckanut Brewery
THE FINEST LOCAL BREWS. ON TAP.
1556 NW 56TH ST.
BALLARD 206.783.0131 AMBERDENSEATTLE.COM
Award Winning Ales & Lagers
National Great American Beer Festival Small Brewing Co of the Year 2011. National Great American Beer Festival Small Brewpub of the Year 2009.
601 W Holly St, Bellingham, WA 360-75-BEERS (360-752-3377)
www.chuckanutbreweryandkitchen.com
Great Beer Selection • Outdoor Seating 1825 72nd Ave SE Mercer Island • WA 98040 • 206-232-0800
2
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2011
for
HOPS
8564 Greenwood Ave. N.
www.NakedCityBrewing.com
206-838-6299
Enjoy a pint with us
Tours & Tasting every Friday & 3rd Saturday of the month 3-7pm Dick’s Beer available 6 days a week at NW Sausage & Deli, Dick’s Brewery retail location.
www.DicksBeer.com “Aurora’s Finest”
24 Taps
Tuesday Trivia Night - Taco Wednesday - Shuffleboard & Pinball $2 beer of the month - NHL Center Ice HAPPY HOUR • 3-6pm Daily • Food and Drink Specials 7317 Aurora Ave N (next door to Beth’s Cafe) duckislandalehouse.blogspot.com
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2011
3
STOPS HOPS for
Bob’s Homebrew Supply We have beer, wine, Draft systems and mead and soda custom stainless making supplies brewing equipment. & equipment. 2821 N.E. 55th St. / Seattle, Wa 98105 / 206-527-9283 Hours: Wed - Fri 11-7 Sat 10-6 Sun 11-4
America Flavor Pale Ale pairs well with most classic American foods. Here are some pairings to try: Grilled Copper River salmon with Pale Ale glaze and grilled summer vegetables. Pale Ale brined roasted cornish game hens. Pale Ale honey mustard new potato salad. Beecher’s Cheese flagship reserve cheddar.
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2011
coconut flakes, and fermented pork wrapped in fresh lettuce leaves. Unlike Thai food, Lao dishes are meant to be eaten entirely with your hands (and almost always with sticky rice), so wash up first. CHELSEA LIN 2820 Martin Luther King Jr. Way S., 725-3884 $$
Co lu m b ia C it y Geraldine’s Counter serves an array of scrumptious dishes, and the place is always packed. There’s beautifully puffed French toast, and plentiful scrambles make their way to other people’s tables. But this sunny, upscale diner has earned a place in our heart for one reason: its unparalleled BLT. Actually, make that a BAAT, because you’re offered the option of adding avocado (which you absolutely should), and instead of lettuce there’s arugula, adding a slight sharpness that contrasts perfectly with the bacon. And did we mention that the bacon is especially meaty and crispy? NINA SHAPIRO 4872 Rainier Ave. S., 723-2080, geraldinescounter.com $ Adored for its diversity and community cheer, the Columbia City Farmers Market is out of reach for many market shoppers, who can’t manage a weekday afternoon trip to the south Seattle neighborhood. la medusa’s got those unlucky eaters covered with its Wednesday-night suppers, made from whatever its chefs deemed most striking when they ambled down the block to shop. While the market menu is tremendously popular, freshness isn’t an occasional event at this homey bistro, which specializes in “Sicilian soul food.” In the summer, look for vibrant pestos and justplucked tomatoes; winter brings pork belly, kale, and superior gnocchi. HANNA RASkIN 4857 Rainier Ave. S., 723-2192, lamedusa restaurant.com $$
W e s t s e at t l e loCöl barley & Vine made a lot of residents happy when it opened, not in The Junction where the cool stuff usually resides, but rather just off 35th in a former tanning salon. It’s got everything a neighborhood bar needs: a fireplace for when it’s cold, a patio for when it’s warm, cozy tables with pillows when you don’t want to sit on a stool, and really cool salvagedlooking light fixtures that keep you from looking salvaged when you’ve tied on one too many. The wine and beer list is 95 percent Washington and Oregon and the food is 100 percent creative, mainly because there isn’t really a kitchen at all. The tiny four-by-five-foot space, which boasts a whopping two burners and a teeny oven, is (luckily) run by chef Charlie Worden, whose resume includes Skillet. He manages to pump out fresh salads, sandwiches, soups, and some of the best pork tacos this side of Elliott Bay. In addition to its weekday happy hours, Locöl offers wine discounts from noon to 6 p.m. on weekends. Talk about a good neighbor. JULIEN PERRY 7902 35th Ave. S.W., 708-7725, locolseattle.com $$
Sometimes you crave home cookin’—from Grandma’s kitchen, not your own. Oneyear-old meander’s KitChen doesn’t shy away from grease or the time required to give you that delightfully familial experience. Everything is cooked to order and prepared with love . . . and butter. Late night on weekends is a great time to check it out, as breakfast requires you to show up before the door’s unlocked should you wish to avoid waiting in a line as long as the West Seattle Bridge. MA’CHELL DUMA LAVASSAR 6032 California Ave. S.W., 932-9840 $
WWW.OMABAP.COM OPEN DAILY 11AM - 9PM “Korean is America's next big cuisine!" Tanya Steel, Epicurious.com
120 Bellevue Way NE / Bellevue, WA 98004 (2 blocks South of the mall) / 425-467-7000
r ai n i e r Val l e y In a town awash in Vietnamese food of all stripes, from high-end to the tiniest holein-the-wall pho joint, ben thanh offers the best of all worlds: a pleasant setting, authentic food, good service, and prices that can’t be beat. Sports might play silently on the televisions as tables full of Vietnamese men drink beer. The servers coming to your table are always happy to make suggestions—there’s more to the menu than what’s printed, so it pays to ask. The food is always fresh, and it tastes pretty darn close to what you’d get at its namesake, the central market of Saigon. NAOMI BISHOP 2815 S. Hanford St., 760-9263 $ Perhaps the best-traveled concept in Seattle, the Cajun CraWfish specializes in the spicy mudbugs innovated by Vietnamese fishermen who settled on the Gulf Coast after fleeing their homeland. The cuisine was standardized in California, where restaurants like the Boiling Crab draw huge crowds with their butter-slicked crawfish sporting thick coats of lemon pepper and Cajun seasoning. The Cajun Crawfish does right by the young tradition, serving up bags of sloppy crawfish, potatoes, and corn. But what makes its rendition worth seeking out is the soft, crusty baguette, essential for sopping up the garlicky sauce, that typifies the Vietnamese mastery of bread. HANNA RASkIN 6951 Martin Luther King Jr. Way S., Suite 103, 432-9488, thecajuncrawfish.com $
100+ Washington Wines 20+ Unique specialty pastas 8 Washington microbrews on tap plus 22oz and limited edition selections 5 Vintage Italian Motorcycles
W h it e C e n t e r The benefits of owning an adjacent butchery are not lost on White Center’s el Paisano rostiCeria y CoCina , where the tacos come with an array of proteins: tripe, cheek, barbecued pork, fish, or shrimp. A dish of birria (braised goat) falls apart in a chili sauce still flecked with bits of slowly dissolving tendon. For customers on the go, there are $1 tamales served at the butchery and market next door, where dark chorizo hanging from a rod points downward at a bin of chicharrónes the size of a child’s torso. TIFFANY RAN 9615 15th Ave. S.W., 763-0368 $ The authentic Cambodian flavors you’ll find at Queen’s deli are strong and occasionally stinky, in the best way. A form of fish sauce constitutes the base of many
Vintage Motorcycle Memorabilia
W W W. C A F E V E L O C E . C O M
12514 120th Ave NE, Kirkland • 425-814-2972 VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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™
small cakes packed with personality
9003 35th Ave SW, Seattle, WA 98126 orders@stuffedcakes.com • 206-428-8581
-NORM’S SIGNATURE ITEMSGRILLED MEATLOAF SANDWICH: bacon, pepperjack, crispy onions, BBQ chipotle mayo, lettuce, tomato BEATRICE: oven roasted turkey piled high, homemade russian dressing, kraut, swiss cheese, chips & slaw
NORM’S PASTRAMI: beer & mustard soaked pastrami, grilled onion on rye, chips & slaw RADICAL MAC N' CHEESE: pasta, garden veggies, fontina cheese sauce, sage & crispy panko chip topping SLIDERS: five to choose from - beef, turkey, salmon, veggie, and sloppy-bacon joes NORM'S THREE PEPPER BURGER: peppercorn coated, roasted red pepper, poblano mayo, provolone
206-547-1417 • 460 North 36th Street In the Heart of Fremont Late Night Happy Hour 11pm - 1am
LIVE MUSIC • PIZZA • COCKTAILS
I ’S NORM
HAPPY HOUR
EVERYDAY IN THE RUM BAR! Specials on Appetizers, Handcrafted Cocktails, Beer & Wine PROUDLY SERVING
50% OFF PIZZA SPECIAL UP TO 3 PIES / SUNDAY - THURSDAY 5PM - 9PM $3 WELLS & MICRO BEERS
DI NE I N ON L Y A N D N O T T O B E C O MB IN E D W IT H OT HE R OF F E R S. O N L Y V A LID A T B A LL A R D L OC AT ION
KIDS WELCOME 5-8PM 5433 BALLARD AVE. NW • 206-784-4880 • WWW.SUNSETTAVERN.COM 44
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
4869 Rainier Ave S • Seattle, WA 98118 (206) 329-1202 • islandsoulrestaurant.net
soups and dishes. The staff is helpful in sorting out what might work for you, going over the menu (which goes beyond the buffet line), from spring rolls and crepes to noodles and salads. For milder palatepleasers, the desserts here may not be familiar, but they are wonderful homemade treasures. NAOMI BISHOP 9808 14th Ave. S.W., 767-8363 $ You know you’ve found a great neighborhood bar when the strangers there decide to reseat themselves according to team loyalties. RoxbuRy Lanes is such a bar, but it’s also a bowling alley and a Chinese diner, serving fried dry chicken wings that could go tip-to-tip with any wing in the International District. Sweet with fresh garlic, the wings are meaty and crisp, and pair wonderfully with cheap Bloody Marys on Sunday afternoons. Roxbury’s kitchen stays open until 4 a.m., serving such fine-tuned plates as a plush fried rice, scattered with peas, carrots, and stones of roast pork. HANNA RASkIN 2823 S.W. Roxbury St., 935-7400, roxburylanes.com $ When seeking the best, go to the source. When it comes to bánh mì—Vietnamese sandwiches—in Seattle, that motto will lead you to seattLe RoLL bakeRy, where you’ll also find some of the best baked goods around. This small White Center bakery creates the bread used in most of the bánh mì in the city. Here at their own counter, they serve sandwiches on that same crispy bread, straight out of the oven, along with Vietnamese coffee and a daily variety of authentic savory and sweet baked goods. English isn’t the dominant language, so if your Vietnamese is rusty, you can’t always be sure what’s inside the flaky puff pastry, but the good news is that everything is fantastic. There’s not much seating (only a few stools against the window), but standing up just means the flaky pastry and breadcrumbs fall straight to the floor. NAOMI BISHOP 9828 16th Ave. S.W., 763-6435 $
b ai n b R i d g e i s L an d On the ferry ride to Bainbridge Island, an imaginary line is crossed. The short walk from the terminal to the restaurant means that you can leave your car and the hustle and bustle of the city back on the mainland. Stepping into HitcHcock only amplifies the feeling of serenity, with its cool, sparse decor. The food is similarly unadorned, designed to show off the simplicity of the ingredients. Specialties demonstrate the bounty of Bainbridge and the locals who forage and farm in the area, each dish executed with skill by chef Brendan McGill in the restaurant named for his wife’s family, longtime island residents. NAOMI BISHOP 133 Winslow Way E., 2013789, hitchcockrestaurant.com $$
beLLevue Sometimes likened to the Applebee’s of China, the Little Sheep Hot Pot chain is so renowned in its home country that a gutsy Bellevue entrepreneur in 2009 took advantage of a copyright law quirk to open a fraudulent Little Sheep. The real restaurant strutted in two years later, confident its broth would persuade patrons of its authenticity. Although LittLe sHeep is also fighting the pretender in court, the broth seems to be working its intended magic. The 200-seat restaurant is routinely packed with families anxious to swipe lamb shoulder and mushrooms through garlicky broth strengthened with hambones, lotus seeds, dried lychees, goji berries, and oodles of cumin. Side dishes are equally excellent: Don’t miss the vinegar peanuts and lamb pies. HANNA RASkIN 1411 156th Ave. N.E., Suite A, 425-653-1625, littlesheep hotpot.com $$
Over 12 Incredible Flavors of Individual Serving Cheesecakes Parties • Weddings • Gifts • Just You Capitol Hill • Pike Place Market • www.theconfectional.com
Call it blasphemy, but spiced can keep Szechuan food lovers happily dining on the Eastside without wanting for Seattle’s
Little Sheep
JOSHUA HUSTON
VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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Specializing in fresh, handcrafted rotating kebab meats. Marinated chicken and leg of lamb roasts are thinly sliced and served on locally baked Turkish-German style flatbread and topped with house made sauces and fresh produce.
goods. Thinly sliced gizzards with a smattering of chilies, and the chili-infested dry-pot lamb, inspire head-to-toe tingles. Those not up for the heat can cool down with shredded potatoes, pig ears, tongue, and more. Though as hard as they push the chilies, it’s the vegetable dishes which offer the most welcome reprieve for a mouth-tingling meal. TIFFANY RAN 1299 156th Ave. N.E., 425-644-8888 $$ A newcomer to the Eastside’s oft-overlooked Overlake Square Mall, UdUpi Café and Chaat Corner serves vegetarian South Indian dishes with unexpected indulgences to satisfy any hunger. Soft lentil donuts, architectural dosas, and crisply fried batura bread make the fork and spoon seem like weapons of oppression. The neighboring Chaat Corner serves street food–inspired bites and desserts with effervescent textures and a no-holds-barred spice factor. TIFFANY RAN 14625 N.E. 24th St., Suite 3, 425-401-2009, udupicafewa.com $$
i s s aq Uah In a town of 10,000 Thai restaurants (or so it seems), the best is actually a short drive away: Issaquah’s noodle Boat. Three reasons: 1) There are many unique dishes. 2) Prices are great, with most plates at $10 or less. 3) Noodle Boat doesn’t dial down the spice. Pay special attention to the third, as Noodle Boat closes for six weeks each winter for a working family vacation in Thailand to make chili paste for the restaurant. Start with mieng kum: roasted coconut, peanuts, red onion, Thai chili, ginger, lime, palm sugar sauce, and dried shrimp that you wrap in a cha-pu leaf. The explosion of flavors previews a menu full of fantastic food. JAY FRIEDMAN 700 N.W. Gilman Blvd., 425-391-8096, noodleboat.com $$
K i r K l an d It’s easy to drive by the CraB CraCKer without a second glance, given the array of more attractive restaurants that populate downtown Kirkland. But make no mistake: If your appetite for crab is insatiable, this restaurant is a sure bet. The tasty crustacean dominates the menu; lunchtime favorites include the crab salad Monte Cristo and the housemade crab bisque, while dinner offers fancier fare like baked Dungeness Crab au gratin and broiled bacon-wrapped prawns stuffed with crab. The only place you won’t find crab is on the dessert menu. But if you have a bizarre hankering, the kitchen could probably swing that, too. ERIKA HOBART 452 Central Way, 425-827-8700, crabcracker.com $$
trellis, in Kirkland’s Heathman Hotel, offers a fine farm-to-table dining experience that celebrates the Pacific Northwest. It may well be the most underrated restaurant in the Seattle area. In charge is chef Brian Scheehser, an organic farmer with 10 acres just minutes away; his harvest helps determine the evening’s menu. You may be carnivorous, but no one will need to tell you to eat your vegetables here. Besides, no worries: Scheehser also has a way with meat and fish. On Sundays and Mondays, the three-course meal for $29 is a steal—plus, 29 wines are available at half-price. The lemonsage flan is a must-end for your meal. JAY FRIEDMAN 220 Kirkland Ave., 425-284-5900, heathmankirkland.com/trellis $$$
Now Ope n Sa turd ay!
www.berlinerseattle.com PIONEER SQUARE 221 1ST AVE S MON-TUES • 11AM-4PM WED-SUN 11AM-7PM • 206.838.0339 SOUTH LAKE UNION 428 WESTLAKE AVE • MON-SAT 10AM-9PM • 206.838.5032
A small and Excellent destination for Greek Specialties Signature Specials Daily “Their food is well suited for a night out with the family: It’s likable, piling big, simple flavors on top of each other...courses are affordable and gigantic.” -Jonathan Kauffman, Seattle Weekly Great Gyros and Excellent Mediterranean Cuisine
Ta ke O u t / D i n e I n
6400½ California Ave SW, West Seattle • Located at Morgans Junction 206.913.0041 • www.kokorasgreekgrill.com • Mon-Fri 4-9, Sat 1-9, Sun 1-8
ly n n wo o d If asked, BUdapest Bistro owner Elizabeth Muszka will tell you about her daily routine, which involves visiting the market every morning; spending 14 hours in the kitchen, baking tortes and stewing
1411 156TH AVE NE, SUITE A BELLEVUE, WA 98007 • (425) 653-1625
Budapest Bistro
JOSHUA HUSTON
WITH 36 SPICES AND INGREDIENTS IN OUR ORIGINAL SOUP BASE RECIPE, OUR FLAVORFUL BROTH IS SURE TO SATISFY EVERY SINGLE ONE OF YOUR TASTE BUDS. WWW.LITTLESHEEPHOTPOT.COM VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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A Seattle Tradition for over 15 years!
3 Menus: Traditional, Gluten-Free, & Vegan Much of our menu is locally sourced using natural & organic whole food ingredients 3 banquet rooms for parties and special occasions (no extra charge) Seasonal beers on tap, including root beer for kids FREE DELIVERY
w w w. r
8523 Greenwood Ave N 206-782-9005
a z z is .c o
m
• 100% FRESH GROUND CHUCK • • CHAR-BROILED • • HAND FORMED PATTIES • • SHAKES, MALTS, FLOATS & COLD BEER • • NIFTY SELECTION OF BOTTLED SODAS •
www.zippysgiantburgers.com 48
Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
BEST HAPPY HOUR ON THE EASTSIDE EARLY AND LATE
pork; running the cash register during dinner service; and staying as late as 4 a.m. to hand-mix sausages. But diners don’t really have to ask: The food’s freshness and fidelity to age-old Hungarian cooking techniques are apparent on every plate. It’s no accident that the restaurant serves as a regular meeting venue for the state’s Austrian Club. Yet even eaters without ties to the old country will appreciate the brawn of Muszka’s sauerkraut stew and the richness of her mushroom soup. Hanna Raskin 12926 Mukilteo Speedway, 425-513-9846, budapestbistrofood.com $ Nicknamed “Tasty Wok” by its legions of adoring fans, TasTer’s Wok is one of the few Lynnwood restaurants you’ll regularly find packed to the gills with legions of Americanized Asian-food fans—and karaoke lovers. While the restaurant does offer more traditional versions of dishes ranging in influence from Chinese to Indian, its generous selection of faux meat dishes— crispy pot stickers, tangy mu shu “pork,” even spicy kung pao “chicken”—can inspire even the laziest vegetarian to brave I-5 traffic. Its best-known veggie dish is the $8.95 General’s Chicken: cubes of processed fake chicken steaming in a crunchy fried crust and lovingly enveloped in a sweet, tangy, otherworldly red sauce. ZiBBY WiLDER 15128 Hwy. 99, 425-787-6789 $
M o u n T l ak e T e r r ac e Brothers Gabe and Monty Slimp relocated their smoke shack, Gabriel’s Fire, from Ballard to Mountlake Terrace in the fall of 2011. Loyal fans followed the smell of whole log fires and smoking brisket, ribs, chicken, and more, creating an occasional wait at the diminutive restaurant. Ten different housemade sauce options are available: a tangy but traditional barbecue sauce, a Carolina sauce with more pepper and vinegar, teriyaki and Thai-inspired sauces, and several hotter sauces. Sandwiches range from $6–$10 and are served on warm sandwich rolls from Grand Central Bakery. You can get sides of fries, slaw, beans, greens, and mac ’n’ cheese for $2–$4. Local microbrews and sweet tea are available to wash it all down. sOnJa GROsET 5803 244th St. S.W., 425-697-4119, gabrielsfire.com $
redMond Complaining about Seattle’s lack of decent bagels is nearly as popular a local pastime as composting, which makes the existence of blazinG baGels horribly inconvenient. The good-humored Redmond shop, incongruously located in an industrial park, bakes bagels with the perfect ratio of crust to chew. Blazing produces snickerdoodle, blueberry, and bacon-cheddarchive “bagels,” but purists shouldn’t be put off by the deviant dough experiments: The poppy bagels are jacketed in fresh poppy seeds, and the pumpernickel are admirably robust. Hanna Raskin 6975 176th Ave. N.E., #365, 425-883-1550, blazingbagels.com $
r e n To n There is incredible variety to Southeast Asian cuisine, yet what most of us know comes from Indian restaurants that offer the same dozen or so dishes. Those who yearn for more can look to Madhur Jaffrey’s glorious cookbooks—or they can visit naan -n- curry, located in Renton and well worth the drive. This unpretentious establishment serves Pakistani food. According to its gregarious staff, the difference between this and Indian fare lies partly in fewer spices and more distinct flavors in each dish. You’ll get some unusual dishes here, such as lamb with bitter melon, an oblong green fruit that offers an intense, pungent flavor. You’ll also find the familiar, including naan with just the right amount of charcoaled crust and homemade pistachio and almond ice creams. nina sHaPiRO 709 S. Third St., 425-271-6226, naanncurry.com $
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s h o r e li n e At Grinder’s hoT sands, the sandwiches aren’t cheap—most are between $10 and $12—but they’re enough for a hearty meal plus leftovers, or to share between two people. Try The Dipper, packed with roast beef made inhouse, with portobello mushrooms and caramelized onions on warm ciabatta bread spread with horseradish and melted cheese. Served with a side of jus, it’s a drippy, dippy, meaty mess, but worth every bite. The Gilbano is a highbrow cheesesteak (owner Mitch Gilbert is a Pennsylvania native): Thinly sliced steak is grilled with sweet and spicy peppers, garlic, and caramelized onions. The mixture mingles all the flavors, and is added to tangy gorgonzola and mozzarella cheese on an Italian roll. There’s wine on tap from Proletariat, imported beer in bottles like Chimay and Krušovice, and live music on Saturday nights. sOnJa GROsET 19811 Aurora Ave. N., 542-0627, grindershotsands.com $
Vas h o n i s l an d Farm-to-table is wildly en vogue these days, but no restaurant in Seattle exemplifies the phrase better than Vashon Island’s la boucherie, owned and operated by animal and dairy producers Sea Breeze Farm. The first thing diners see when they walk in is a glass butcher case full of the products—from porchetta to patés, chops to chorizo—on which they’ll be dining. And because few healthy people want to eat just a pile of meat, the dishes on the menu— which changes weekly—are artfully crafted with Sea Breeze cheeses and locally sourced fruits and veggies. A recent dinner consisted of chicken confit in a moat of sweet carrot purée, followed by a farm ricotta-andhazelnut cheesecake so fresh you could almost hear the cows mooing in the background. ERin k. THOMPsOn 17635 100th Ave. S.W., 567-4628, seabreezefarm.net $$$
LOCAL PASTRIES: Local pastries:
Mighty-O-Donuts (organic, vegan) Little Rae’s Bakery (nut free) Le Fournil French Bakery (authentic french pastries) Flying Apron Bakery (vegan, gluten free, organic) and Skydottir Epic Cookies (vegan, gluten free, organic)
MIGHTY-O-DONUTS (ORGANIC, VEGAN), LITTLE RAE’S BAKERY (NUT FREE), LE FOURNIL FRENCH BAKERY (AUTHENTIC FRENCH PASTRIES), FLYING APRON BAKERY (VEGAN, GLUTEN FREE, ORGANIC), AND SKYDOTTIR EPIC COOKIES (VEGAN, GLUTEN FREE, ORGANIC) Large outdoor seating Large outdoor patiopatio seating
and
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Schnitzel House
Warm European Hospitality Serving traditional Hungarian and German food “Kindness, good cheer, and faraway flavors…I'll be back more than once.” – H R,
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VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012 • Seattle Weekly
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Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2012
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lowell’s “Almost Classy Since 1957”
• Travel + Leisure Magazine, July 2011 - featured in “100+ Amazing Places to Eat Like a Local” & “Best Waterfront Seafood Shacks” • New York Times, July 2005 - Where to Eat in Washington State: “Lowell’s for the food and for the view” • Bon Appetit Magazine, May 2009 - “United Plates of America” in Washington: “Dungeness Crab Omelet at Lowell’s” • Mario Batali in GQ Magazine, March 2009 - “Go to Lowell’s for the Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict, Fresh Oyster-Bacon Scramble and Dungeness Crab Omelet!” • Food Network’s Giada De Laurentiis’ Weekend Getaways “...get breakfast from Lowell’s Restaurant & Bar serving dishes made only [from] foods from local vendors from the Pike Place Market.” • Seattle Magazine, April 2006, “Best Unlikely Water-View Restaurant” • Coastal Living, May 2009 - “Washington’s Best Seafood Dives”
lowell’s restaurant & bar
open every day, 3 Floors oF panoramic waterFront views serving paciFic northwest & all-american meals opening at 7am daily 1519 PIKE PLACE, SEATTLE, WA 98101 • 206.622.2036 Visit all of our menus on our web site at www.eatatlowells.com