Home & Real Estate May 2021

SOUTHEAST ALASKA

HOMEESTATE &REAL

a publication of the Juneau Empire

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MAY 2021

How to address moss in the lawn Choose grass that suits your climate and region Lawn watering and fertilizing techniques Get Ready: Early spring landscaping tips How to care for perennials How to prepare a garden for spring planting Stay safe when working in the yard this spring and summer Delight guests with restaurant-quality dessert

This Crow Hill condo is listed by Gwen Place, Coldwell Banker, see page 5 for more information

LAWN CARE

How to address moss in the lawn

Table of Contents

ON THE COVER:

This home is listed by Coldwell Banker: Gwen Place

5 Coldwell Banker: Gwen Place 7 Sundance Realy 8 Business Directory • Ricker Real Estate • Alaska USA Mortgage: Mac Carandang • Coldwell Banker: Race Realty

12 Alaska USA Mortgage

BY METRO SERVICES REAL ESTATE FEATURES

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awn care can be a labor of love.

Maintaining a pristine lawn is no small task, but it’s one that many homeowners proudly take on, knowing that all the hard work and time spent outside on sunny summer afternoons is well worth the sweat equity.

After putting in so much effort to create a lush, green lawn, it’s understandable if homeowners react with disbelief when something threatens the health of their turf. Moss is one such threat.

Recognizing the threat moss poses is the first step to corralling it before it overtakes a lawn.

Explaining moss Moss can be especially menacing because its green appearance allows it to blend in with grass rather easily.

As moss spreads, it becomes more

noticeable. According to the turf care experts at Scotts®, moss is a plant with shallow roots that spreads by spores and root-like structures called rhizoids. Moss is opportunistic, and it will grow where turfgrass is thin and weak.

However, moss does not kill the grass.

Rather, the conditions that promote the growth of moss can kill the grass. Such conditions may include compacted soil or excessive thatch, acidic or infertile soil, excessive shade, and insufficient or excessive watering.

How can moss be controlled?

Penn State Extension notes that the first step to controlling moss is to test the soil. Soil test kits are inexpensive and available at most home renovation stores. Test results will reveal if the soil is lacking nutrients or if lime needs to be applied and when to apply it. Such a report also will indicate when to fertilize the lawn, which can help restore the

turfgrass so it’s more capable of competing with the moss.

If the underlying cause of moss is shade and/or moisture in the yard, homeowners can speak with landscaping professionals to discuss their options.

Replacing existing turf with one that is well-suited to shade and/or moisture may prevent mold from overtaking the lawn in the future. Penn State Extension notes that some turfgrasses may be best-adapted to shaded, well-drained soils, while others may be more likely to thrive in shaded, moist soils. A local landscaping professional can help homeowners find a turf that will not only thrive in the conditions in their yards, but also in their local climates.

Moss can quickly take advantage of conditions that make it difficult for turfgrass to grow. Homeowners who recognize that moss is overtaking their lawn can address it in various ways.

LOW-MAINTENANCE LAWN ALTERNATIVES

Choose grass that suits your climate and region

BY METRO MEDIA REAL ESTATE FEATURES Lush lawns feel great underfoot, add curb appeal to a home and are the crowning touches on complete landscapes.

Establishing a vibrant lawn requires research, including determining which type of turf is the best fit for a property. The lawn experts at Pennington say that homeowners can set up their lawns for success by choosing turfgrasses that thrive in their region.

According to the Home Depot, the two main types of grass for turf are warm-season grass and cool-season grass. Warm-season grasses grow best in hot weather. Most will go dormant and turn brown in cool temperatures. Warm-season grasses should be planted in late spring for the best chances of thriving. Cool-season grasses are better for northern climates, where the mercury will eventually drop. They are characterized by rapid growth in the spring and fall. Some may turn brown during periods of high summer heat.

In certain instances, a mix of warm- and cool-season grasses may be needed. That’s particularly so in the “transition zone” of the United States, according to Lowes. The transition zone runs from roughly Delaware to North Carolina on the east coast and central California to Arizona on the west coast. However, lawns in the transition zone typically fare best with cool-season grasses, indicates Lowes.

Here’s a closer look at various types of grasses, courtesy of Pennington, Lowes and The Home Depot.

Warm-season grasses • Bahia: This is a tough turfgrass especially suited for heat and humidity. It has a rougher texture than other grasses.

• Bermuda: This produces a very drought-tolerant lawn and is great for high-traffic areas. It requires a lot of sunlight to grow.

Purchasing a mixture of warm and cool season grasses creates a variety of visual textures and colors • Buffalo: This grass is low maintenance and tough. It has low water needs and a fine texture.

Full sun exposure will produce a vibrant lawn.

• Centipede: Popular throughout the southern United States, this slow-growing grass is ideal for homeowners who desire a low maintenance lawn.

It has a coarse texture and is best in areas of low foot traffic.

Cool-season grasses • Fescue: Fescue comes in many varieties and is good in areas with mild winters and warm summers. It has high drought-resistance and can

endure medium foot traffic.

• Kentucky bluegrass: Finely textured with a deep, evergreen color, this grass thrives in growing conditions marked by good soil, regular sunlight and routine watering.

• Perennial ryegrass: This flourishes in full sun, but tolerates light shade. It forms a lush, finely textured, deep green lawn. During periods of drought, it will need additional watering or go dormant.

Homeowners can increase their chances of establishing beautiful lawns by selecting the right type of grasses for their climate and landscape.

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HOME OWNERS

Lawn watering and fertilizing techniques

BY METRO MEDIA REAL ESTATE FEATURES

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lush, green lawn is a sight to behold. Many variables are involved in growing and maintaining grass, and water and fertilizer are among the most important components.

Knowing how much water and fertilizer to apply and when to apply it can make a big difference in the appearance and health of a lawn. That’s because a well-fed and watered lawn will develop a better root system, which makes the lawn less vulnerable to stressors like drought, mowing, foot traffic, and heat, according to the Scotts® company.

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Fertilize There is no magic formula governing when to fertilize a lawn.

The type of grass and how well-established a lawn is must be considered. Experts suggest having the soil tested to determine its pH levels and if any nutrients are lacking. A fertilizing schedule can then be developed after testing.

Keep in mind that overfeeding a lawn will not make it grow any better and actually can damage the turf. Several small applications of fertilizer during the lawn’s most active growing period may be helpful, advises the home improvement resource Tools Around the House. An annual application (late spring for warm-season grass or fall for cool-season grass) may be all that’s needed.

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Certain fertilizers need to be applied and watered in. Others may be combined with weed-control products and must be set on top of damp grass. Read packaging to determine the right application.

Water The right watering schedule and techniques can help a lawn thrive.

A well-fed and watered lawn will develop a better root system, which makes the lawn less vulnerable to stressors.

Scotts® says adjusting for climate and nature can help grass to grow strongly. A lawn that has a grayish cast or appears dull green is telling an owner that it needs water. Another test is to step on the lawn. If footprints disappear quickly, the grass blades have enough moisture to spring back.

Water the lawn in the morning before 10 a.m. when it’s cooler and the winds tend to be calm so that the water can soak in. For those who must water at night, do so in early evening so that the water can dry before nightfall and will not contribute to disease.

Scotts® says to water an established lawn until the top six to eight inches of soil is wet. Most lawns need one to 1.5 inches of water per week from rain or a hose to soak the soil that deeply.

Newly established lawns may require more water to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Visit a lawn care center for more

information on watering the type

of lawn for your area or visit www. scotts.com for additional tips.

HAINES BUSINESS

HAINES BUSINESS

JUNEAU LAND

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Each office is independently owned and operated.

home OWNERS

Get ready: Early spring landscaping tips

By Metro Media Real estate Features

6

During the cold months of winter, many people stare longingly out of the window dreaming of spring and time spent outdoors. For those with green thumbs, images of tending to the garden and other aspects of their landscapes no doubt dominate such daydreams.

Draw inspiration from those budding crocuses and daffodils pushing through the last remnants of snow and employ these tips to prepare for the upcoming gardening season.

• One of the first steps is to apply juneauempire.com

Draw inspiration from those budding crocuses and daffodils pushing through the last remnants of snow and employ these tips to prepare for the upcoming gardening season. a preemergent weed killer to get a head start knocking out weeds that can plague the lawn during the growing season. Killing weeds at the roots early on can mean far fewer hassles in spring and summer, and may prevent new generations of weeds from cropping up

each year.

• While it may be tempting to take a prematurely warm day as a sign that spring is in full force and purchase a bunch of annuals, it’s better to know the last of the possible frost dates (check “The Farmer’s Almanac”); otherwise, you may waste time and money planting flowers or vegetables only to have them zapped by another frosty day.

• Amend the soil so that it is the right consistency — just crumbling when lifting it. Soil that is too muddy after spring thaw can harden, making it difficult for

plants to flourish later on. Speak with representatives at a local lawn and garden center about which types of amendments you can add to the soil in your particular area to enrich it.

• Lawn and garden experts at The Home Depot suggest filling in bare patches of lawn now by mixing a few shovelfuls of soil with grass seed. Then apply this patch to the bare areas, water, and continue to care for the area until the spot fills in.

• Spend a day in the garage or shed tending to the lawn mower and other gardening equipment.

Clean all tools and ensure that everything works, repairing parts as needed.

• Give outdoor entertaining spaces a good scrubbing, clearing away dirt and grime that may have accumulated over the winter.

Use a leaf blower to blow away any leftover leaves.

• Check if the front porch, railings or decking need painting and/ or staining. Tackle these projects when the weather is cooler so everything will be ready for those peak spring days.

• Think about any annuals you might want to plant in the landscape this year that will complement any existing shrubbery or perennials. Come up with a theme so that the entire yard is cohesive.

Before homeowners know it, winter is gone and it is time to once again enjoy long days spent outdoors. Get a jump start on spring lawn prep as soon as you can.

YARD TIPS

How to care for perennials nac. Some perennials are shortlived, meaning they will come back a few consecutive years; others will last for decades.

Though planted perennials require less maintenance than annuals, they are not completely maintenance-free. Certain care is needed to help perennials thrive, and that starts with the soil. In fact, soil is the single most important factor for growing healthy plants. Penn State Extension says most perennials grow ideally in well drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. In addition, organic matter can improve soil texture and water-holding ability.

When including perennials in the garden, make sure you wait for the right time to plant them. The

BY METRO MEDIA REAL ESTATE FEATURES

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erennials can add color and vibrancy to any garden.

One of the more desirable components of perennials is that they come back year after year, meaning homeowners do not have to invest in a gardenful of new flowers every year. That can add up to considerable savings.

Perennials often form the foundation of beautiful gardens.

Annuals only grow for one season, produce seeds and then die.

However, perennials die back to the ground every autumn and their roots survive the winter. So the plants reemerge in the spring, according to The Farmer’s Alma-

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plants can use their energy on seed production and reblooming. Perennials should be divided when they grow large, every three to four years when the plants are not in bloom. Perennials produce fewer flowers or may look sickly when the time has passed to divide them. A thick layer of mulch can help perennials to overwinter successfully. Perennials planted in containers will need to be transplanted into the garden before it gets cold because most containers cannot thoroughly insulate perennial roots.

Apart from these strategies, perennials pretty much take care of themselves. As long as sunlight requirements match plant needs, the perennials should thrive.

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ideal time is during the spring or fall. Perennials come as container-grown perennials, which already have been established in the soil. Bare-root perennials are just roots that are often packed in peat moss. In order to plant bare-root perennials, soak the roots in water for several minutes before gently planting in the ground, indicates the how-to resource Tip Bulletin.

Perennials should be watered deeply, especially during the first growing season. However, the soil should never be overly dry or wet.

Most perennials do not need to be fertilized heavily. A single application in the spring typically is all that’s needed.

Care along the way can include deadheading spent flowers so that

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SMART STEPS

How to prepare a garden for spring planting

BY METRO MEDIA REAL ESTATE FEATURES

T

he final weeks of winter, and even the first few weeks of spring, are still chilly in many parts of the world.

Despite those last vestiges of winter chills, late winter is a great time to begin preparing gardens for the coming planting season.

Gardens may have to withstand months of harsh weather each winter, and such conditions can take a toll. Gardeners can consider the following tips as they try to restore their gardens and get them ready for spring planting.

• Disinfect your tools. It’s common to clean tools in late fall or whenever they’re typically placed in storage for the winter. But cleaning and disinfecting are not necessarily the same thing. If tools were not disinfected at the end of the previous gardening season, disinfect them before doing any work on the garden. Doing so can ensure any lingering bacteria or fungi on tool surfaces are killed prior to the beginning of gardening season. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, plant pathogens, including bacteria and viruses, can be transferred to and infect plants through bits of soil and plant debris left on shovels and pruner blades. Thoroughly disinfecting such tools prior to using them in the spring is a great way to reduce the risk of disease in your garden.

• Clear debris from garden beds.

Gardeners can consider the following tips as they try to restore their gardens and get them ready for spring planting.

Leaves, twigs, sticks, and other debris may have gathered in the garden over the winter. Such debris can inhibit the growth of plants and vegetables, so make sure all of it is removed prior to planting. Weeds might even begin to sprout up in late winter and early spring, so remove them

before they go to seed.

• Test the soil. Testing the soil prior to planting can help gardeners determine what their gardens will need to thrive in the coming months. Garden centers and home improvement stores sell home testing kits that are effective and easy to use. Once the results are in, speak with a professional at your local garden center about the best time to amend the soil.

• Loosen compacted soil. Soil can become compacted over winter.

If compacted soil is not loosened prior to planting, plants will have

a hard time getting the water and nutrients they need to thrive.

Loosening the soil also provides another opportunity to inspect the garden for any underlying issues, such as fungi or weed growth, that you may have missed when clearing debris or testing the soil.

Late winter is a good time to assess a garden and address any issues that developed over the winter so plants and vegetables can thrive come the spring planting season.

JUNEAUEMPIRE.COM

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TIPS & TRICKS

Stay safe when working in the yard this spring and summer the deadliest form of skin cancer. The SCF recommends applying sunscreen 30 minutes before going outside to allow the sunscreen to bond to your skin. Reapply sunscreen at least every two hours, and more often if you’re sweating excessively.

The SCF recommends broad spectrum sunscreens, which protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays. Though a product with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15 is acceptable when walking the dog or driving to work, the SCF advises using a product with an SPF of 30 or higher when engaging in extended outdoor activities like gardening or mowing.

• Employ the buddy system. Use the buddy system when pruning tall trees or performing any tasks that require a ladder.

The Orthopedic Institute of Pennsylvania reports that more than 164,000 people are injured each year falling off a ladder.

Ask a significant other or neighbor to hold the ladder in place while you climb up to reduce your risk of falling. If cutting large branches, cut them piecemeal to reduce the risk of being injured by heavy falling branches.

By Metro services Real Estate Features

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day spent working in the yard is an ideal way to pass the time on spring and summer afternoons. A pristine landscape can add value to a property and instill pride in homeowners who put a lot of thought and effort into their lawns and gardens.

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A sun-soaked day can make it easy to overlook potential threats when working in a lawn or garden. But safety precautions are of the utmost necessity when working in the yard, where the risk for serious injury is considerable. For example,

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the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons reports that, in 2016, more than 90,000 patients, including nearly 5,000 children, were treated in hospital emergency rooms for lawn mower-related injuries.

Lawn- and garden-related injuries can be prevented without going to great lengths.

• Know your terrain before mowing.

Knowing the terrain in your own yard can reduce the risk for accident or injury. This can be especially important when mowing the lawn with a riding mower. Adhere to manufacturers’ recommendations regarding inclines to reduce tip-over accidents

that can pin riders beneath the mower.

Study hilly areas of the yard prior to mowing so you know which areas are safe to mow with a riding mower and which areas are best mowed with a walk-behind mower. For greater control when using a walk-behind mower on an incline, mow parallel to the slope.

• Apply and reapply sunscreen. Sunburns may not require trips to the emergency room, but they can still be serious. In fact, the Skin Cancer Foundation notes that sunburn is a leading cause in the majority of cases of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma, which is

• Inspect the property for insect hives.

The OIP notes that the most common insect stings in spring come from bees, wasps and hornets. Homeowners who are not careful can inadvertently come across hives when doing spring cleanup, making them vulnerable to bites and stings. That can be very dangerous for anyone, and especially so for people with a history of allergic reactions to insect bites or stings.

Inspect areas where you’ll be working to make sure insects haven’t put down roots in your property. If you discover any hives and are hesitant to remove them on your own, contact a local landscaping firm.

Lawn and garden accidents and injuries can be serious. Thankfully, accidents and injuries are easily prevented when homeowners take a few simple safety precautions while tending to their lawns and gardens.

NEW RECIPE TO TRY

Delight guests with restaurant-quality dessert

BY METRO SERVICES

M

any people feel dessert is the best part of any meal. When dining out, diners who can’t wait to peruse the dessert menu may find several items they think they can only enjoy at restaurants. But food fans need not be experts in the kitchen to enjoy their favorite desserts in the comforts of home. The following recipe for “Luscious Créme Brûlée” from Lori Longbotham’s “Luscious Creamy Desserts” (Chronicle Books) is a restaurant-quality dessert that’s simple to prepare and just as decadent as desserts you many find on the menus of your favorite restaurants.

Luscious Créme Brûlée Serves 8 2 cups heavy whipping cream 1 cup half-and-half 6 large egg yolks ¾ cup sugar Pinch of salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1. Preheat the oven to 300 F. Have ready a flame-proof 1-quart shallow baking or gratin dish and a roasting pan. Put on a kettle of water to boil for the water bath.

2. Heat the cream and half-and-half in a medium saucepan over medium heat until hot. Remove from the heat.

3. Whisk together the yolks, 1 ⁄ 2 cup

of the sugar, and the salt in a medium bowl. Slowly add the cream mixture, whisking constantly until blended and smooth.

Add the vanilla. Pour the mixture through a fine strainer set over a medium glass measuring cup or bowl.

4. Pour the custard into the baking dish and skim any foam from the top.

Transfer to the roasting pan, place in the oven, and pour enough boiling water into the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the custard is set around the edges but still slightly jiggly in the center. Do not overbake — the custard will set further as it cools. Remove the baking dish from the water bath and let cool completely on a wire rack.

5. Refrigerate the créme brûlée, loosely covered, for at least 4 hours, until thoroughly chilled and set, or for up to 1 day.

6. Preheat the broiler. Have the roasting pan ready, and fill a bowl with ice water. Gently blot the surface of the custard with the edge of a paper towel to remove any condensation. Sift the remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar evenly over the custard. Place the baking dish in the roasting pan and carefully pour enough ice water into the pan to come halfway

up the sides of the baking dish.

7. Broil the custard about 3 inches from the heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sugar has melted and turned a dark amber color; carefully move or rotate the dish if necessary so the sugar caramelizes evenly. Remove from the broiler and cool the custard in the ice water for 5 minutes.

8. Carefully remove the baking dish from the baking pan. Serve right away, or refrigerate, uncovered, for no longer than 1 hour before serving — or the topping will soften.

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