Washington Coast Magazine, June 01, 2017

Page 1

DREAM

K

CREATE

kalich & sons CONSTRUCTION Montesano,Washington

kalichandsons.com

360.589.4177 Creating details in Grays Harbor and Thurston counties.

summer 2017

contents

FEATURES

30

COVER

MARINE SANCTUARY

3,200 square miles of protected marine environment

TOP Pelicans in the surf. Photo by Michael Bruce BOTTOM Anemone in kelp forest. Photo by Mike Kesl/Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary COVER Split Rock, framed by the arch at Hole in the Wall, is a short hike from Rialto Beach. Photo by Robert Steelquist

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

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THE WESTPORT LIFE

Photography by Michael Bruce

Our work is not about houses... ...it’s about people.

Multi-year winner!

Serving all of Grays Harbor County Residential - Commercial - Land

Windermere Real Estate

101 South Broadway • Aberdeen • 360-533-6464 837 Point Brown Ave NW • Ocean Shores • 360-289-3373 www.windermeregraysharbor.com

URES TREAS HE ON T BEACH PG 24

summer 2017

contents IN THIS ISSUE 12

DRINK

42

Steam Donkey Brewing Co.

16

FOOD

Our Favorites

48

Farm Fresh Guide

19

WHO & WHY Ellen Pickell

50

HOME

EVENTS

LAST SHOT

Oyhut Bay

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BEACHCOMBING 101 Finding treasure on the beach

16 TOP Sulena Bigelow, 3, shows off her bounty after a beachcombing outing. Photo by Patricia Jollimore BOTTOM Dan’s Dahlias, a family farm near Porter, sells cut flowers and the tubers from which they grow.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

IN EVERY ISSUE 10 From the Editor 47 Advertisers Directory

The longest-lasting sedan in its class

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Your Subaru Dealer for 33 Years

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Beach Homes Aren’t Just For Summer Visit www.OwnOceanShores.com

Donna Jones

360-532-4000 | editor@washingtoncoastmagazine.com

Publisher

Stan Woody

Editor

Doug Barker

Associate Editor

Kat Bryant

Editorial Contributors

Broker 360-580-5354

donnajones55@live.com

Real Estate / Ocean Shores

Elma

Gateway to Grays Harbor Since 1888

Heat on the Street

AUGUST 4 - 5, 2017

Join us for these great events in 2017! June 23-24 August 4-5 October 31 November 11 November 17-19 December December

• Elma’s City Wide Garage Sale Days • Heat on the Street Custom Car & Motorcycle Show • Elma’s Downtown Trick or Treat • Elma’s Veterans’ Day Celebration & Parade • Elma’s Holiday Bazaar Weekend • Elma’s Tree Lighting Ceremony (Date to be determined) • Pictures with Santa (Date to be determined)

Jan 20, 2018

• Winter Wine Festival

Elma Chamber of Commerce

For more information on these and other great events: www.elmachamber.org • (360) 482-3055 • 222 W. Main

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

Angelo Bruscas Kat Bryant Dave Haerle Ellen Pickell Robert Steelquist Washington State UniversityGrays Harbor Extension

Photographers Patrick A’Hearn Doug Barker Michael Bruce Harold Everett Ă•`Ăž Â?ÂœĂž` Â?ÂœĂ€Âˆ>˜ Ă€>˜iĂ€ Patricia Jollimore Mike Kesl James Lamont Karlyn Langjahr Stuart May Ocean Exploration Trust Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary Ellen Pickell Robert Steelquist Editorial Assistant

Karen Barkstrom

Magazine Kristina Case, Simply Graphic Graphic Designer Ad Graphic Designers

Constance Ellis Emily Evans

Circulation

Kris Cearley

Subscriptions

Addy Moreno

Distribution

Leslie Bebich

Contact information Advertising inquiries, subscriptions & change of address: 360-532-4000. Back issues $8 plus shipping and handling. Washington Coast Magazine is published by The Daily World, a division of Sound Publishing and may not be reproduced without express written permission, all rights reserved. No liability is assumed by Washington Coast Magazine, The Daily World or Sound Publishing regarding any content in this publication. A subscription to Washington Coast Magazine is $14 annually. Single copies are available at select locations throughout Grays >Ă€LÂœĂ€ >˜` *>VˆwV VÂœĂ•Â˜ĂŒÂˆiĂƒ° ÂœĂ€ `iĂŒ>ˆÂ?Ăƒ] Ă›ÂˆĂƒÂˆĂŒ www.washingtoncoastmagazine.com Š 2017 by The Daily World 315 S. Michigan St. Aberdeen, WA 98520

Historic Billy’s Bar & Grill Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, & dinner. • Full Service Menu • Large Appetizer List • Homemade Soups • Fresh Garden Salads • Billy’s Delicious Old-Fashioned Burgers ★ NEW★ Billy’s ½ lb. Brick Burgers on a Torta Bun

• Featuring Breakwater’s Hand-breaded Fish & Chips, Halibut, & Calamari aari ri • Large rotating selection of Pacific Northwest draft beers rs rs on tap.Full p service bar. 322 E. Heron St. • Aberdeen 360-533-7144 SAME OWNERS SINCE 1981

Locally Owned FRESH SEAFOOD MARKET! Our fresh seafood market includes a variety of fresh fish arriving daily. We also carry Johnson’s Smoked products, a variety of locally canned seafood products, and T-shirts.

CHOWDER HOUSE SELECTIONS • Hand-breaded Fish & Chips, Prawns & Halibut • Oven-broiled Salmon, Halibut, & Cod • Grilled Crab & Cheese Sandwiches • Fresh Salads ~ Shrimp, p Crab, & Seabreeze • Homemade Clam Chowder howder We serve bottled beer, beer on tap and wine by the glass. Riverside seating on our large outdoor deck Open 7 days a week

306 South F St. | Aberdeen Ab d | 360-532-5693 36 60 05 532 3 32 2 569 93 3

Fast, Friendly Service!

Getting right with the ocean

T

here’s a pretty good chance you don’t know a lot about the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary. We’ve got you covered. The cover story in this edition, written by Robert Steelquist, is about the vast 3,200-square-mile section of the ocean and Washington Coast that has been designated a federal marine sanctuary since 1994. There are only 14 in the country. You’re excused if you don’t know much about the sanctuary. It’s not the sort of place one can experience by driving up to a parking lot and going on a guided tour. At the Cape Flattery at the Discovery Center, on the Port Angeles waterfront, Olympic Coast National you can peruse exhibits and get a sense for the Marine Sanctuary. beauty and importance of the marine environment Photo by Robert off our coast — but the sanctuary is too big and too Steelquist. diverse to be contained in anything with a roof over it.

The sanctuary starts just a bit north of Grays Harbor, near the mouth of the Copalis River, and stretches north to the tip of Cape Flattery. In some places, it extends more than 50 miles offshore.

it’s not a hands-off situation. Commercial fishermen still fish there, and the beaches are accessible to anyone. Its greatest value is in identifying a large section of the marine ecosystem for study so we can understand how best to manage complex and interconnected ocean and coastal systems. Doug Barker, Editor The story’s author, Robert Steelquist, worked at the sanctuary for years on behalf of the National Atmospheric and Oceanic Administration as a naturalist and communications specialist. In his interview with sanctuary Superintendent Carol Bernthal, she summed it up this way: “If you care about the things in the ocean, if you care about going out to fish, if you care about walking down the beach and experiencing a wilderness coast, you have to care about what’s happening out there. “You have to create a ‘right relationship’ to the ocean — and that really requires knowing what’s happening in the ocean and how we as humans are affecting it, both positively and negatively. ‘Right relation’ has to be informed by knowledge.” That’s exactly the way we should be making management and resource decisions: based on a right relationship with the resource being managed. And the invaluable information we can gain from this sanctuary may be applied to marine environments all along the northern West Coast. If you’re reading this magazine, it likely means you care about experiencing our coast, too. We hope a little extra knowledge will enhance that feeling.

The sanctuary designation provides some protection for the area, but

Stay connected!

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

VISIT OUR WEBSITE www.WashingtonCoastMagazine.com Click it to read our past articles and learn about upcoming events.

We invite you to check us out >ViL ° /i ÕÃ >L ÕÌ Þ ÕÀ experiences at the coast and feel free to suggest stories about your favorite spots.

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WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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gg DRINK

Great Fermentations Something’s brewing in Grays Harbor

The craft beer industry has reached Aberdeen. Or should we say is back in Aberdeen. According to Bellingham brewery historian Gary Flynn, Aberdeen was once home to two highly acclaimed breweries, but that was long ago. The Aberdeen Brewing Co. thrived from 1902 until 1915, brewing and selling its flagship Prima lager, Golden Age lager and Aberdeen Porter. Much of the Prima brand was shipped to the San Francisco market. But voter-approved statewide prohibition put an end to that — and the company — in 1915. In 1933, when ratification of the 21st Amendment ended Prohibition nationwide, Pioneer Brewing started up in the old ABC brewery. Its successful run ended 11 years later, when supply shortages related to World War II caused its demise. More than 70 years later, the art of fermenting a proper mix of malted barley, yeast water and hops has returned as Steam Donkey Brewing Co. has opened in the downtown district, reestablishing an industry that once had a pretty solid history in the neighborhood. Jonathan and Stephanie Bennett opened Steam Donkey, on the corner of Wishkah and Broadway in downtown Aberdeen, on St. Patrick’s Day.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

ST O RY BY D AVE HAER LE PH O T O S BY D OUG B AR KER

STEAM DONKEY BREWING CO. The brewery, at 101 E. Wishkah St. in Aberdeen, is open Thursday 3 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. The phone number is (360) 637-9431. steamdonkey brewing.com

DRINK f f

THE FIRST THING YOU NOTICE WHEN YOU DRINK A STEAM DONKEY BREW OF ANY TYPE IS INTENSE AROMA THAT HITS THE NOSE PRIOR TO THE BEER HITTING THE TONGUE, BURSTING WITH FLAVOR.

Brewing equipment occupies the north and east walls of the establishment. There’s a cozy seating area with tables and a hand-cast bar. Behind that are the taps featuring four or five brews crafted by Jonathan. He’s a self-taught brewmeister, having started as a hobbyist six years ago before deciding to take the leap into the professional ranks. The Bennetts really caught the beer

bug some years ago, when Jon was in the Marines and stationed in Joshua Tree, Calif. “We went into a tavern with about 50 taps. It’s not like we were Bud Light or Coors Light drinkers then, but that’s when we really realized how awesome beer can get,” said Stephanie.

OPPOSITE PAGE: A simple diagram of the brewing process decorates one wall and educates customers in the basics of brewing. ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Brewery co-owner Jon Bennett sifts through a tub of barley; all ingredients of Steam Donkey brews are organic; growler jugs line a shelf behind the bar; kegs fill a cooler in back. BELOW: A Springboard Flight includes 5-ounce samples of four different Steam Donkey brews. From left, this one consists of the Local Strong Bitter, Gypsy Head Brown Porter, Brontie Smash and Mountains Out IPA.

So Jon decided to jump into the brewing hobby.

STEAM DONKEY PRICES Pint | Schooner 10 oz. $3.50 Growler (64 oz.) $10 ÜÉw | Grunts (32 oz.) $6 ÜÉw $13 ,iw Ã\ }ÀÕ Ìà $8, growlers | -«À }L >À` y } Ìà { x â° $7 Pint of peanuts $1 £ä¯ vv v À ÛiÌiÀ> à > ` wÀÃÌ Àië `iÀÃ

MOST POPULAR BREWS

Mountains Out IPA Belgian Pale Ale

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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gg DRINK

“It started with a Mr. Beer kit,” he chuckled.

- Brontie Smash — a summer ale — 4.9 percent ABV and 38 IBU

“Yeah, a real terrible batch of beer from a Mr. Beer kit,” added Stephanie.

- Gypsy Head Brown Porter— 5.8 percent ABV, 30 IBU

Now they have graduated to creating 100-gallon batches in shiny stainless steel kettles and fermenters.

- Mountains Out IPA — 7.6 percent ABV, 54 IBU

And all of Jon’s ingredients are 100 percent organic. On a recent visit, the brewery was pouring five different craft brews: - The Local Strong Bitter — 5.1 percent alcohol by volume with a ranking of 45 on the scale of International Bittering Units. (The IBU scale is used to approximately quantify the bitterness of beer.)

- Aberdeen Scotch-ish Ale — 8.0 ABV, IBU unknown. The first thing you notice when you drink a Steam Donkey brew of any type is intense aroma that hits the nose prior to the beer hitting the tongue, bursting with flavor. With no formal training in the craft, Jon has some obvious self-taught skills. “Everything I’ve done has been through trial and error,” he said.

WHAT IS A STEAM DONKEY ANYWAY? Paying homage to the area’s rich logging history, the brewery is named after an important piece of equipment. A steam donkey was used to winch felled logs out to where they could be processed or loaded.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

LEFT: The space Jon and Stephanie Bennett converted into a brewery previously housed a jewelry store, then a popcorn and coffee café, and most recently a barbecue restaurant. TOP RIGHT: Patrons drop in after work on a Thursday afternoon. LOWER RIGHT: Jon shows some of the brewing ingredients he’s gathered for a beer-making class. OPPOSITE PAGE: From left, Stephanie Bennett chats with Ryan Rowe and Dru Garson. Rowe owns a wine bar next door, and Garson heads up a local economic development agency.

‘we do’ weddings

“I KNEW THIS COMMUNITY WOULD BE AWESOME. THE OTHER DOWNTOWN BUSINESSES HAVE BEEN SUPER SUPPORTIVE, WHICH IS REALLY COOL. WE’VE BEEN WELCOMED WITH OPEN ARMS.” —Stephanie Bennett, co-owner “And we haven’t had a beer he’s made that we couldn’t move,” added Stephanie, somewhat proudly. His most popular brews so far? Definitely the Mountains Out IPA, followed by a Belgian Pale Ale. Jon is the brewery’s one full-time employee, though he does also serve as a volunteer firefighter in nearby Cosmopolis, where the couple lives. Stephanie works full time as a title examiner, but is often behind the bar evenings and weekends.

If you like dining with us, then you’ll love the way we cater to your wedding or special event!

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Northwest Carriage Museum

“I really didn’t think that I would be here seven days a week at first,” said Jon, especially because the pub portion of the 1,200-square-foot building is only open four days a week — Thursday through Sunday. The other three days are dedicated to brewing. The name of the brewery is an homage to the area’s rich logging history: In the early days of logging, a steam donkey was a large piece of equipment used to winch felled logs out to where they could be processed or loaded. The forests that brought the loggers to the area still dominate the landscape. The Bennetts, both graduates of Aberdeen High School, hope to be part of that local landscape for years to come and love their downtown location. They don’t serve food, but patrons are welcome to bring food in. ”The community has been real supportive, so that’s nice,” said Stephanie, noting that business has been good and the reviews positive so far. “I knew this community would be awesome,” she added. “This corner has been great. The other downtown businesses have been super supportive, which is really cool. Other business owners around here want people to come downtown, so we’ve been welcomed with open arms.” And open mouths. (Dan Hammock contributed to this story)

restored Over 50 Magnificently horse-drawn carriages circa 1850-1910

Fun, interactive exhibits for all ages! Group and school tours available Open Daily 10 - 4 PM 314 Alder St. (at Hwy 101 & St.Rt.6) • Raymond, WA (360) 942-4150 nwcarriagemuseum.org 3DLG IRU ZLWK 3DFL¿F &RXQW\ /RGJLQJ 7D[ GROODUV WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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OFF THE MAP gg FOOD F TASTE O R E M M SU

FARM FRESH GUIDE Wynooche Valley Rd. 2.5 miles then turn left on Geissler Rd. approx. ¾ miles, second place on right.

À HOQUIAM Lavender Valley (Dale Dineen)

Shaffner Farms

48 Robertson School Road, Hoquiam 360-532-7253

(Owen & JoAnn Shaffner)

158 Geissler Rd., Montesano 360-249-6722

Fresh Lavender in bloom available July through August, you pick or we pick. Lavender wands and other arrangements. Drive to mile marker 8, Ocean Beach Road, and look for signs.

Lytle Seafoods Oyster Shack (Mike & Kathy Lytle)

1 Rock View Lane, Hoquiam 360-538-2654 www.lytleseafoods.com Oysters grown in the North Bay of Grays Harbor, offered smoked, shucked or in the shell. Wide variety of seafood. Open daily 10am-6pm. Six miles west of Hoquiam on Highway 109 on the road to Ocean Shores.

Loni and Monte Hooper, owners of Lily Lane, stand in a field of flowers.

Lily Lane ­ Ìi E «iÀ®

6 John Wayne Lane, Aberdeen 360-581-6184 Over 300 varieties of daylilies. Potted Oriental (fragrant) and Asiatic lilies, perennials and unique plants. Bouquets, fresh produce retail garden/gift shop/ antiques. Lily bulbs available in fall. Open Wed-Sun, Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, 10am-5pm. Nine miles west of Grays Harbor College on Highway 105. Look for signs just ¼ mile past S. Arbor Rd.

À ABERDEEN Brady’s Oysters Inc. (Kristi Ballo & Korry Engvall)

3714 Oyster Place E., Aberdeen 360-268-0077 www.bradysoysters.com "ÞÃÌiÀÃ] Ûi > ` V i` VÀ>L] vÀià wà ] shrimp, prawns, razor clams, smoked salmon. Open 7 days: 9am-7pm (summer); 9am-6pm (winter). Take Highway 105 west from Aberdeen. Just after Elk River Bridge on right.

Randall Street Garden Produce (Liz Ellis)

1015 Randall Street, Aberdeen (206) 898-5194 Naturally grown seasonal vegetables, strawberries, raspberries and blueberries, VÕÌ y ÜiÀÃ > ` iÞ° >À ÃÌ> ` «i Saturdays 9am-noon or by appointment. Located ½ block east of B Street on Randall Street. Look for the white house with blue trim.

Farm fresh vegetables, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, beans, pickling VÕVÕ LiÀÃ ­ÜiÉ1 « V ®] `> > y ÜiÀÃ and tubers for planting. Yakima fruits in season; hanging baskets, Japanese maple trees. Jams, jellies, preserves, pickled vegetables, dressings, etc. Summer hours are Tues.-Sat., 9am-6pm; Sun., 11am-4 pm. From Highway. 12 east, turn left on West Wynooche Rd., go 2.5 mi. and turn right on Geissler Rd., go ½ mile, farm is on your left. From Highway. 12 west, take Devonshire Rd. exit. Travel for 2.8 miles, turn left, cross bridge, go 1 mile.

À ELMA B.C. Farm

(Scott Beerbower)

1179 Monte-Elma Rd., Elma 360-482-2098

ÕÌ y ÜiÀà >ÀV £ "VÌ° £ä] V> > Þ > `É or gladiolus. Container calla plants and siberica iris starting May 1. Calla lily bulbs available Feb.-June 10. Miniature calla lily bulbs March-June. Cut rhubarb by the pound May 1-Sept. 1. Call for hours or to make appt. seven days a week. Located just west of Elma Elementary School on Monte-Elma Rd.

Cindy’s Plant Stand (Cindy Knight)

1199 Monte-Elma Rd., Elma 360-482-3258

À MONTESANO DEW Acres

(Darrell & Evelyn Wogan)

64 Geissler Rd., Montesano 360-249-5086 at www.dewacres.com Brady’s Oysters hosts an annual Oyster Feed in September.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

We pick or you pick a variety of local Ûi}iÌ>L ià > ` y ÜiÀð ÀÌ

Tomato-plant specialist with almost 100 varieties, including heirlooms, many sizes and colors. Vegetable plants, berries, annuals and perennials. Fresh vine-ripened tomatoes and other garden produce, cut y ÜiÀÃ > ` `> > L ÕµÕiÌÃ Ãi>Ã ° Open spring until killing frost. Located just west of Elma Elementary School on MonteElma Rd.

FOOD f f Juel’s Unique Nursery (Julie Sanchez)

350 E. Satsop Rd., Elma 360-482-2441 www.juelsuniquenursery.com Fruit trees, blueberry, gooseberry, blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, asparagus, rhubarb, vegetable and herb ÂŤÂ?>Â˜ĂŒĂƒ° ÂˆĂŒĂ€Ă•Ăƒ ÂŤÂ?>Â˜ĂŒĂƒ] ÂœÂ?ÂˆĂ›i] w} >˜` ÂŤÂˆÂ˜i nut trees. Large selection of shade trees, perennials, sedums, water plants, hostas, grasses. Newly added: blueberry, raspberry, Marionberry, Loganberry, Tayberry and honeyberry U-Pick area. U-Pick vegetables (in season). Extensive selection of shrubs and trees. Display gardens including lowmaintenance vegetable gardening, water vi>ĂŒĂ•Ă€i >˜` yÂœĂœiĂ€ Li`Ăƒ° "ÂŤi˜ iL°£Â‡"VĂŒ° ÂŁ] 9am-6pm. Off-season by appointment only. Drive est from Satsop on Monte-Elma Rd. 1/2 mile, Right on E. Satsop Rd. two miles. Nursery is on the right.

New Moon Alpacas

(Allison & Denise Moss- Fritch)

350 Cloquallum Road, Elma (360)-861-8584 7i LĂ€ii` w˜i ĂƒĂ•Ă€Âˆ >˜` Â…Ă•>V>Ăž> >Â?ÂŤ>V>Ăƒ° ˆ˜i yiiViĂƒ >Ă€i >Ă›>ˆÂ?>LÂ?i i>VÂ… Ăži>Ă€ ˆ˜ late June for use to home spinners, knitters, dyers and weavers. Fresh eggs available. Hours: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm or by appointment. East of Elma, 2+ miles up Cloquallum Road on right.

VÂ…iVÂŽ >Ă›>ˆÂ?>LˆÂ?ÂˆĂŒĂž Âœv vĂ€iĂƒÂ…Â‡VĂ•ĂŒ yÂœĂœiĂ€Ăƒ >˜` vegetables later in the season. Located 9 miles up the Wynooche Valley Rd. just before the Wishkah Cutoff.

(Ed & Jill Lagergren)

91 Porter Creek Road W., Elma 360-482-3853 www.oakmeadowsbuffalo.com Buffalo meat, jerky, hides and leather goods. Advance orders on quarters or halves. Ranch tours by reservation. Open: Mon-Sat. 9am-5pm. East on Highway. 12 from Elma toward Oakville. At milepost 27, turn right on Porter Creek Rd. Ranch is on left, 1/4 mile from the turn. Please call ahead.

Voss Acres Produce (Steve & Sharon Voss)

Ă€ McCLEARY Zepp Farm LLC ­ iÂ? E >˜i <iÂŤÂŤÂŽ

17 Larson Rd., McCleary 360-701-7586 All of our vegetable and herb plants are grown using all natural organic methods in a healthy clean environment. Vigorous starter plants ready in May and June. One mile north of McCleary on Summit Rd., left on Larson Road.

1683 Ocean Beach Road, Copalis Crossing 360-591-1287 www.vossacres.com Full service produce market open April to mid- September, daily until 6pm. Also offering produce in season (JuneSeptember). Organic practices are used.

À OAKVILLE Dan’s Dahlias (Dan Pearson)

G and H Pastured Poultry (Terry Gentry and Joan Hurst)

38 Deford Lane, McCleary 360-495-3849 Locally grown Freedom Ranger meat chickens, a heritage breed. Raised on green pasture and fed all natural feed with no soy, GMOs or antibiotics. Humanely processed on the farm. Now available: eggs with no soy or GMO feed. Just off of Mox-Chehalis Rd., 2 miles south of McCleary.

Ă€ COPALIS CROSSING Oak Meadows Buffalo Ranch

sunblock and a picnic lunch. 14 miles west of Highway. 101, on the way to Seabrook.

Ida M’s Blueberry Row (Nicole Caldwell)

2262 Ocean Beach Road, Copalis Crossing 360-589-1034 Season generally July through September. We supply buckets for picking. Sun.-Tues. 10am-7pm or by appt. (please call). You must pick a gallon of berries for me to get your gallon free. Bring water, sunhat,

994 South Bank Rd., Oakville 360-482-2406 www.dansdahlias.com "Ă›iĂ€ xää Ă›>Ă€ÂˆiĂŒÂˆiĂƒ Âœv `>Â…Â?ˆ>Ăƒ] VĂ•ĂŒ yÂœĂœiĂ€Ăƒ >˜` ĂŒĂ•LiĂ€Ăƒ° "ÂŤi˜ Ä?Ă•}° ÂŁ Ă•Â˜ĂŒÂˆÂ? wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ vĂ€ÂœĂƒĂŒ° From Elma, take Highway. 12 east to Porter and turn right onto Porter Creek Road West, go ½ mile, turn left onto South Bank Road.

Morning Dew Farm ­ >ĂŒÂ…Ăž ÂœÂœÂŤiĂ€ E iÀÀÞ iĂ›ÂˆÂ˜iÂŽ

69 Western Lane, Oakville 360-273-5568 Seasonal fresh fruit from June to October. Red and black currants, Marionberries, blueberries, Aronias, plums, apples, pears and quinces. Grown using organic methods and fertilizers. Open by appt. only; call for availability and to place orders for preserves. Highway 12 to Oakville, south on State St. (becomes Southbank Rd.) cross Chehalis River then left on Garrard Creek Rd. 2 miles to Harp Rd, turn left. At ½ mile go left on Western Ln. Farm is ½ mile on left. ˜vÂœĂ€Â“>ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜ ÂŤĂ€ÂœĂ›Âˆ`i` LĂž 7>ĂƒÂ…ÂˆÂ˜}ĂŒÂœÂ˜ -ĂŒ>ĂŒi University-Grays Harbor County Extension, graysharbor.wsu.edu

Wynooche Windmill Farm (John & Terry Stevenson)

1381 Wynooche Valley Rd., Montesano 360-249-3755 Custom grower of large hanging baskets. Also vegetable starts, including 50 tomato varieties, many from locally grown seed. Perennial and annual bedding plants and herbs. Open Fri.-Sun. 10am-5pm; closes June 24. Please call ahead to

ABOVE LEFT: Loni Hooper of Lily Lane arranges bouquets. ABOVE RIGHT: Lavender is in bloom at Lavender Valley, south of Copalis Crossing, in July and August. WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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HOME f f

Beach village beach town INSIDE A

Oyhut Bay in Ocean Shores is gaining plenty of interest

ABOVE: Oyhut Bay seaside homes are in walkable neighborhoods close to the ocean.

F

or decades through Ocean Shores’ formative years as a waterfront resort development, the only thing notable about the so-called Oyhut Unit of scrub brush, wildflowers and marshy wetlands at the south end of the peninsula was its occasional use by bird hunters — some with shotguns, most with binoculars.

S TO RY BY AN G E LO BRU S CAS P HO TO S BY S TU ART M AY

Operated by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, that 683-acre area has been maintained as waterfowl habitat and for associated recreational opportunities. It is one of four remaining snowy plover nesting sites in the state, according to Fish and Wildlife’s website. It’s also a popular waterfowl hunting area during the fall season.

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

19

gg HOME

“IT’S CREATING A COMMUNITY ENVIRONMENT. People come here, they can have food, a glass of wine. Kids can go play in the park, and they can walk home. It has streetlights, it’s got a plaza where they can hang out. And we think that’s a unique situation and something that has not been available in Ocean Shores until now.” —Lead developer Pat Brunstad

20

And for the second consecutive summer, it also will be bustling with the fastest-growing vacation/ residential development in Ocean Shores at the neighboring Oyhut Bay — A Seaside Village.

Shores until now.”

Keying on some of the principles that have made Seabrook successful a little farther north up the coast — the ability to purchase a beach home that can be part of a vacation rental pool, and being centered in a walkable, livable, traditional neighborhood — Ohyut Bay begins its second full season of operation with the opening of a new Bistro and Sidewalk Café, fitness studio and soon-to-open public market.

“Most of our clients are coming from the greater Puget Sound area,” Brunstad says. While the initial Oyhut Bay marketing effort was focused on building name recognition regionally with traditional methods, such as an ad in Alaska Airlines Magazine, it now relies mostly on local promotion efforts, a couple of billboards and social media.

That the development has co-opted the name of the wildlife preserve is no coincidence. The motto of Oyhut Bay is “welcome to the natural side of Ocean Shores.” Lead developer Pat Brunstad, named in the spring to lead the project team into its next phase, says the intent is for Oyhut Bay to grow naturally as well. “The nightly rental part of this is huge, because it’s a controlled nightly rental that’s not just random. It’s a brand-new product, with brand-new homes that can accommodate families or lots of people, which you don’t get in a hotel room,” Brunstad says in a Friday afternoon interview at the very busy sales office. “Plus, it’s creating a community environment. People come here, they can have food, a glass of wine. Kids can go play in the park, and they can walk home. It has streetlights, it’s got a plaza where they can hang out. And we think that’s a unique situation and something that has not been available in Ocean

Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

Several times during the interview, boisterous groups of visitors stopped by to see the new development for the first time.

“We have targeted marketing,” Brunstad says. “Because it’s a brand-new product, it’s a little bit more upscale than traditional Ocean Shores, so it tends to attract a little bit more of an upscale client.” The property initially was designed and permitted as The Villages of Ocean Shores, which was to be a restricted-age community of basically identical fourstory condominium buildings like the one built there by the original developers, who went bankrupt. The current group, headed by Jeff Foushee, bought the project at auction in 2012 for $1.6 million. Brunstad Construction was brought on to build some of the initial beach homes, and Pat Brunstad was named to lead the project in March. Brunstad believes the more people stay at Oyhut Bay, the faster it will grow into an estimated $70 million worth of new construction for Ocean Shores. As of the end of April, 23 beach homes had been completed in addition to the original 36-condo building built in 2006, before the new owners purchased the property

HOME f f

at auction. The first phase calls for 28 homes, with 51 planned in phase two. “They say 80 percent of the people that purchase at Seabrook have stayed at Seabrook,” Brunstad says to point out how that development has doubled the number of new homes and related buildings to become a complete resort town. Locals know the south end of Ocean Shores is the best place to explore the beaches as well as live, Brunstad acknowledges. It’s a quick 10-minute walk to Damon Point and the Marina to the east, and to the Pacific Ocean on the west. It also has access to what is now called Oyhut Canal, with kayaks and canoes

available for rent, along with a bike shop. As primarily a builder, Brunstad says the concept was “build the inventory and they will buy. We are kind of changing that a little bit. In phase two, people will be more involved in the type of home that they get and the dynamics that go into it.” That likely will include garages, possibly bigger homes, and some changes to the project’s first conceptual design. As someone with decades of experience in the ebbs and flows of Ocean Shores construction and development, Brunstad now feels like he’s on a lasting wave of growth at Oyhut Bay.

OPPOSITE: The beach homes at Oyhut Bay come in several different designs and sizes, all built with materials designed to withstand the ocean elements. TOP: While there are no groundlevel views of Grays Harbor, many Oyhut Bay units, including the new bar and fitness studio, do have views from upper stories, including this view of the wildlife area and harbor with a ship at anchor off Westport.

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

21

gg HOME LEFT: The main patio at Oyhut Bay is inviting to guests and residents and only steps away from lodging facilities. BELOW: The Oyhut Bay Bistro opened for diners in April. BOTTOM: At night, the porches of Oyhut Bay shine and there is town-like street lighting throughout the development.

OYHUT BAY FEATURES

HOME •

•

Quick glance of what to expect

•

Low maintenance { y À « > Ã ranging from 706 to 1415 square feet and 1, 2 or 3 bedrooms Fireplace

• • •

Back porch

•

Large kitchen with granite-topped island

Open great room Room to share with extended family

“Ocean Shores is such an incredible deal. Look at what you get for the money here. It’s just an incredible buy,” he says. “One of the best parts of Oyhut Bay is the fact that it’s walkable. You can have your home, have a nice dinner, a martini, maybe do some shopping, and never have to get into your car.”

marked by the new neighborhood market going up — the first such establishment to open in the south end of the city. It will have 1,500 square feet of retail space. A bike rental company also will open up a shop there, renting mopeds, electric bikes, kayaks, canoes and “all the stuff that makes this place fun,” Brunstad said.

Homeowner dues are $175 a month, and any property sold can be put in the rental pool. The dues take care of all maintenance on the grounds, and provide access to the parks and facilities.

The pre-existing condos are all sold now, most going for mid- to high $100,000s, and beach houses now range in price from $219,000 to about $369,500.

All homeowners in the rental pool share in the revenue, minus costs for rental management and housekeeping. Located off Marine View Drive, the entryway to the 43-acre Oyhut Bay project now is

22

The smallest of the new cabins/cottages is the one-bedroom, one-bathroom Surf Cottage, at 706 square feet. Also available are the midsize two-bedroom, two-story Beach Cottage (1,129 square feet) and a two-story, three-bedroom Ocean Cottage (1,415 square feet).

Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

COMMUNITY • Walkable paths • Wildlife area • Fishing, paddling, •

kayaking and swimming

• • •

Bistro/lounge Children’s play area 9 }> > ` wÌ iÃÃ classes

Beach accessible

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gg EXPLORE

BEACHCOMBING

101

Fun is essential element of Alan Rammer’s educational programs

ST O R Y B Y K A T BR YA NT PH O T O S B Y PA TR I C I A JOL L I MOR E

ABOVE: The group adjourns to the beach to see what they can find.

On

a blustery day in early April, Alan Rammer led a diverse group of about 30 people on a beachcombing expedition at Pacific Beach State Park.

It was the morning after a windstorm, and he was optimistic that the waves kicked up by those massive gusts had brought in “some cool treasures.” Rammer, 66, loves the sea and always believed he was meant to be a teacher. “In my family, everyone’s bankers, dentists, lawyers,” he said. “But I knew in fourth grade what I wanted to do.”

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

EXPLORE f f LEFT: From left, Quin Johns, Barbara Raabe, Kellan Johns and Dick Raabe watch as Alan Rammer draws a diagram in the sand to illustrate the differences between the shells of male and female crabs. BELOW: Alan Rammer holds the disk with Chinese characters found by 9-yearold Quin Johns.

When the time came, he pursued his passion, earning dual degrees in education and marine science from the University of Washington. He later went to work in Westport for the Washington Department of Fisheries (now the Department of Fish & Wildlife), and eventually served for 21 years as head of the agency’s marine education and outreach program. He retired in 2009 when that state program was discontinued, but nothing could keep him from his calling. So, since 2010, he’s been conducting private talks and outings under the business name Tidepool Discoveries. “I’m just working with the groups and organizations that I want to work with, and everything is kind of peachy,” he said. “I still get to do it and have fun — and I really enjoy it, because I feel there’s a lot of stuff people don’t know about the ocean. It’s really a remarkable place.” He takes any opportunity to teach folks not only what they’ve found, but where it came from and what it means. At Ocean Shores’ Razor Clam Festival in March, for example, an attendee was showing around pictures of small tubular creatures he’d found on the beach that week and couldn’t identify. Rammer immediately recognized them as “fiery rollers.” Nicknamed for their

phosphorescence, they’re deep-sea creatures that live in warm currents far offshore, he said — and their presence on the beach could mean those currents had shifted closer to the coast. “No wonder nobody could identify them,” he said. “They weren’t supposed to be here.” On this particular April morning, a group mostly comprising military families vacationing at Pacific Beach showed up for his primer on the science of beachcombing. Ranging in age from 3 to 84, all were eager to learn. Before hitting the beach, Rammer gathered everyone around a picnic table to give an overview of things they might expect to find. He passed around a bucketful of items to provide visuals and tell their stories: a razor clam shell, a skate’s leathery egg case (commonly called a “mermaid’s purse”), a piece of anthracite coal from a long-ago shipwreck and more. He also emphasized the importance of checking any sealed container for potential treasure. He’s found everything from $20 bills stuffed into a coffee can, to notes in bottles from people all over the world. (He still corresponds with a few people decades after finding such messages, though he’s never met them in person.) Armed with information — including, quite literally, the ins and outs of a razor clam — the group adjourned to the shoreline. It was not easy keeping up with the energetic leader. He spent over an hour zig-zagging from one clump of stuff to the next, scanning everything in his path — even as “students” of all ages rushed up to him, one by one, with their own finds. He fed off their excitement, giving an animated explanation or theory for every find, no matter how insignificant.

Money talks

Alan Rammer likes to say everything LJŽƵ ĮŶĚ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ďĞĂĐŚ ƚĞůůƐ Ă story. His favorite story began in 1988, when a child on one of his Department of Fish and Wildlife tours discovered a silver dollar. Not just any silver dollar, mind you. This one was minted in 1896. “We didn’t think anything of it,” Rammer says. “It was up near the sand dunes, so we just thought someone had lost a silver dollar.” But then more people started picking up silver dollars in that area — all made in 1896, and all from the San Francisco mint. With help from a park ranger who was a historian, Rammer discovered their probable source: Two ships ůĞŌ ^ĂŶ &ƌĂŶĐŝƐĐŽ ŝŶ ĨĂůů ϭϴϵϲ ĨŽƌ the Alaska gold rush, with a stop ƐĐŚĞĚƵůĞĚ ŝŶ ^ĞĂƩůĞ ƚŽ ƉŝĐŬ ƵƉ people headed for Skagway to seek their fortune. But the one that was carrying payroll never made it to ^ĞĂƩůĞ͕ ĂŶĚ ŶŽ ŽŶĞ ĞǀĞƌ ŬŶĞǁ ǁŚĞƌĞ it went down. Now, because of the silver dollars washing up on the beach — 133 have been found and reported to date — historians have a general idea of where the silver chests might be. But here’s the kicker: That ship was carrying more than silver dollars, Rammer says. “It was carrying $20 gold pieces, too. … So what everyone’s looking for now are the chests of $20 gold pieces.”

BURIED TREASURE

So far, none of those shiny prizes have been reported — but “you

just never know what LJŽƵ͛ƌĞ ŐŽŝŶŐ ƚŽ ĮŶĚ ŽŶ ƚŚĞƐĞ ďĞĂĐŚĞƐ͕͟ he winks.

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

25

gg EXPLORE “Every day is Friday for me. Every day is a new adventure in a new setting with new crowds, new audiences. I never have Mondays. … And that’s the reason I’m still doing what I’m doing.” —Alan Rammer

Learn about the beach

TIDEPOOL DISCOVERIES

Educational programs: Beachcombing; Razor Clams from A to Z; Fun Facts About Northwestern Sea Life Rates: One- to twohour program with a small group, $75 plus mileage; longer ÌiÀ>VÌ Ûi wi ` ÌÀ « with a large group, $250 plus mileage Contact: Alan Rammer 360-532-9614 Ì `i« ` ÃV ÛiÀ iÃJ hotmail.com

LEFT TOP: Alan Rammer tells the group how to read a crab shell’s story. BELOW LEFT: Renae Bigelow and her 3-year-old daughter, Sulena, search for treasures. BELOW RIGHT: A teenager found this rusty unfired 35mm shell embedded in composite materials.

26

Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

What looked like it might be another nifty chunk of anthracite coal, for example, turned out to be charred wood from a campfire. Instead of simply dismissing it, Rammer used it as a teaching moment.

Adia-Soleil Soriano, 5, surveys her family’s finds, including a mermaid’s purse and her fossil shell.

“See what happens when I scratch it?” he said brightly. “See all that stuff that comes off with my fingernail? Anthracite won’t do that.”

Participants picked up plenty of interesting items, including acorns and black walnuts that had drifted up from California’s coast, as well as two mermaid’s purses. Several folks also went home with nice pieces of driftwood to display. Quin Johns, 9, found a poker chip-sized plastic disc with Chinese lettering on it. Rammer theorized that it might be either a game token or a beverage cap insert. Plenty of things from Japan find their way here (most notably the glass floats prized by Washington beachcombers), but is it normal to find things from China? “We get a lot of material from all the Asian countries,” said Rammer. “The North Pacific Current runs in a clockwise motion and has been bringing debris from all Asian countries since the beginning of time.” A teenager in the group picked up a corroded 35mm shell, which Rammer said was most likely a leftover from military exercises that took place in the area decades ago. The shell — firmly embedded in a cobble of sand, pebbles and rust — was unfired.

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“Don’t drop it!” Rammer advised her, only half-joking. Five-year-old Adia-Soleil Soriano made several discoveries that morning, but her most treasured bounty was a fossilized scallop shell embedded on a rock. “Her older sisters gave up early,” said her mom, Arleen. “But she kept at it.” Her persistence was rewarded in more than one way: As is his custom, Rammer gave prizes at the end of the walk for what he deemed the coolest finds. Adia received a “Finding Nemo” toy for her fossil. One of the adults won a scallop-shaped chocolate lollipop for finding a bunch of “nurdles” – tiny beads of raw plastic, which Rammer said probably came from a Japanese factory. No one left empty-handed: Everyone was treated to Swedish Fish candy. Fun is an essential ingredient of Rammer’s programs. When he leads field trips for schools, he understands the need to allocate some time for the kids to “get squirrelly” on the beach. After he teaches them a few things, he sends them out to play a game he calls “razor clam beach bingo.” “We have a bingo card, and they have to run around,” he said. “There’s no pencils involved; they just use something on the beach to punch a hole in the card when they find something

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gg EXPLORE LEFT: Lillian Bagley, 11, shows Alan Rammer a piece of driftwood that piqued her interest. BELOW TOP:Renae Bigelow picked up a piece of driftwood that resembled a dragon’s head. BELOW BOTTOM: Alan Rammer examines the fossil shell discovered by Adia-Soleil Soriano.

Kuroshio, the Japanese Current dŚĞƌĞ ĂƌĞ ŽƚŚĞƌ ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚƐ ĂŶĚ ĚƌŝŌƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ EŽƌƚŚ WĂĐŝĮĐ that toss beachcombing treasures ashore on our western coast, but the warm, tropical waters of the :ĂƉĂŶĞƐĞ ƵƌƌĞŶƚ ĚŽ ŵŽƐƚ ŽĨ ŝƚ͕ ƉĂƌƟĐƵůĂƌůLJ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŵĂƩĞƌ ŽĨ ŐůĂƐƐ ŇŽĂƚƐ͘ dŚĞ :ĂƉĂŶĞƐĞ ĐĂůů ŝƚ ƚŚĞ <ƵƌŽƐŚŝŽ͕ Žƌ ͞ ůĂĐŬ ^ƚƌĞĂŵ͕͟ ďĞĐĂƵƐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĚĂƌŬ ĐŽůŽƌ ŽĨ ŝƚƐ ǁĂƚĞƌ͘ <ƵƌŽƐŚŝŽ͛Ɛ ƉĞƌŵĂŶĞŶƚ ĐŝƌĐƵŝƚ ƐƚĂƌƚƐ ĂƐ Ă ŶŽƌƚŚĞƌŶ ďƌĂŶĐŚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ǁĞƐƚͲŇŽǁŝŶŐ ĞƋƵĂƚŽƌŝĂů ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚ͖ ŝƚ ƚƌĂǀĞůƐ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐŽĂƐƚ ŽĨ :ĂƉĂŶ͕ ǁŚĞƌĞ ŝƚ ŵĞĞƚƐ ƚŚĞ ĂƌĐƟĐ ǁĂƚĞƌƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ KLJĂƐŚŝŽ ƵƌƌĞŶƚ͘ <ƵƌŽƐŚŝŽ ƚŚĞŶ ůŽŽƉƐ ĞĂƐƚ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ƚŚĞ EŽƌƚŚ WĂĐŝĮĐ͕ ǁŝĚĞŶŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƐůŽǁŝŶŐ ĚŽǁŶ ĂƐ ŝƚ ĨĂŶƐ ŽƵƚ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ 'ƵůĨ ŽĨ ůĂƐŬĂ͕ ǁŚĞƌĞ ŝƚ ĚƌŽƉƐ Ă ƋƵĂŶƟƚLJ ŽĨ ŇŽƚƐĂŵ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŚĞĂĚƐ ƐŽƵƚŚ ĚŝƐƉĞƌƐŝŶŐ ŝƚƐ ƚƌĞĂƐƵƌĞ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐŽĂƐƚƐ ŽĨ ƌŝƟƐŚ ŽůƵŵďŝĂ͕ tĂƐŚŝŶŐƚŽŶ͕ ĂŶĚ KƌĞŐŽŶ͘ Outside California and Mexico, it again joins the ĞƋƵĂƚŽƌŝĂů ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚ ƚŽ ƌƵŶ ǁĞƐƚǁĂƌĚ͕ ǁŝƚŚŽƵƚ ĂŶLJ obstacles, in the longest ocean current known to man Ͷ ƐŽŵĞ ŶŝŶĞ ƚŚŽƵƐĂŶĚ ŵŝůĞƐ ĨƌŽŵ WĂŶĂŵĂ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ WŚŝůŝƉƉŝŶĞƐ͕ ǁŚĞƌĞ ŝƚ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞƐ ŽŶĞ ĐŝƌĐƵŝƚ ĂŶĚ ĞŶĚůĞƐƐůLJ ƐƚĂƌƚƐ ĂŶŽƚŚĞƌ͘ — Excerpted from the 1967 book “Beachcombing for Japanese Glass Floats,” by Amos L. Wood

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

He’s clearly still quite young at heart, so he relates easily to kids. that’s on it, and they yell out ‘bingo!’ when they’re done. It gives them the chance to all run amok.” You can tell by the twinkle in his eye that it’s equally enjoyable for him to watch them cut loose. He’s clearly still quite young at heart, so he relates easily to kids. It’s no surprise the National Marine Educators Association named Rammer its 2012 Educator of the Year. He’s also active with the Northwest Aquatic and Marine Educators Association, having served two terms as president, and he was a co-founder of the Ocean Shores Beachcombers Fun Fair, which celebrated its 30th anniversary this year. Beachcombing is just one of three educational programs Rammer offers. Schools and community groups also can sign up for “Razor Clams

from A to Z” or “Fun Facts About Northwestern Sea Life.” He does career workshops and participates in high school career fairs, too. He has no website or marketing plan. “It’s all word of mouth,” he said. “I’m just picking what I want to do.” He entered a private contract last fall with Navy Getaways Pacific Beach to do programs for visiting military families. He’s also handling the children’s program this summer for the Westport-South Beach Historical Society, the nonprofit that operates the Westport Maritime Museum. “Every day is Friday for me,” he grins. “Every day is a new adventure in a new setting with new crowds, new audiences. I never have Mondays. … And that’s the reason I’m still doing what I’m doing. “I’m not ready to hang it up yet.”

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

LEFT: Cape Flattery (Robert Steelquist) BELOW L-R: Sea stars (OCNMS/Judy Floyd), Anemone (OCNMS/Harold Everett), Gunpowder star (OCNMS)

3,200 square miles of protected marine environment

C

arol Bernthal knocks on a wooden conference table when reminded of the Olympic Coast’s run of luck: no major oil spills in 26 years. Better than luck, the superintendent of Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary points to efforts among federal, state, tribal and Canadian agencies and the maritime industry itself for the accomplishment. “We’ve had 98 percent compliance with

voluntary measures to route ships farther offshore” to prevent oil spills, she says. “It’s a special place, a unique place ecologically, but it’s also a difficult place to protect in the event of a spill because it is difficult to access.” The sanctuary comprises nearly 3,200 square miles off the Washington Coast, including 95 miles of shoreline and reaching nearly 50 miles seaward in some places. It protects miles of designated wilderness coast; remote islands and rocks inhabited only by seabirds and marine mammals; and some of the most productive seawaters known. Between the 1960s and ’90s, oil companies, environmentalists, and federal and state governments dealt with the prospect of oil and gas deposits locked beneath

Washington’s coastal sea floor. Early test wells revealed small amounts of petroleum, concentrated in soft sandstone close to the shore. Another factor, however, became clear: the grim risk of oil spills to fisheries, marine wildlife and the very character of the coast. Then, it happened: In December 1988, a tug towing the fuel barge Nestucca collided with the barge, ripping a gash in its hull and spilling 231,000 gallons of fuel oil at the Grays Harbor entrance. In July 1991, at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a Chinese freighter collided with a Japanese fish processer, the Tenyo Maru, causing a 361,000-gallon spill that killed over 4,000 seabirds and fouled miles of pristine shoreline in Washington and British Columbia.

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

31

Olympic Coast National /CTKPG 5CPEVWCT[|

BY THE NUMBERS

3,188

SQUARE MILES IN AREA

10,000 +

ANNUAL VESSEL TRANSITS OF ALL TYPES

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SPECIES OF MARINE MAMMALS

46 miles

FARTHEST POINT OFFSHORE

600 +

ISLANDS AND OFFSHORE ROCKS

200 +

DOCUMENTED SHIPWRECKS

4,660 feet

GREATEST DEPTH

MILES OF 95 MILES COASTLINE

The risk of spills and their environmental consequences were no longer just a statistic. What could have happened had happened — repeatedly. The sanctuary’s designation in July 1994 marked a turning point. It meant an outright ban on petroleum exploration and extraction within the sanctuary, and greater emphasis on spill prevention and marine safety for the entire region. National Oceanic and Administration (NOAA) staff, the U.S. Coast Guard and the International Maritime Organization designated an “Area-To-BeAvoided” to create a safety buffer and reduce collision risks at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Protecting the sanctuary became an impetus for further measures to prevent spills, including the placement of a rescue tug at Neah Bay and the alignment of vessel traffic lanes. For oil spill prevention, the term “sanctuary” has lived up to its promise. Protecting the Olympic Coast also requires understanding large- and small-scale ocean processes — what’s there, what’s changing and how to make good management decisions. Studying an area that large allows researchers to understand basic ocean processes, like upwelling and ocean currents. “When the sanctuary was designated, they took an ecosystem approach,” Bernthal explains. “We’ve had to ask how we fit in the much larger regional context of the California Current because those influences are much larger than the Olympic Coast, but they affect everything here.” Drawing a box around a small area and calling it a sanctuary isn’t enough, she adds. “It’s one thing to protect a specific population of, say rockfish. But it’s another to understand the things that affect that population,” she says. “You have to have a broader perspective to do that.” When it was designated, the sanctuary’s seafloor and seafloor habitats were not understood in full detail. Over the years, the NOAA staff has produced high-resolution imagery covering much of the sanctuary’s 3,200-square-mile area. Locating deepwater corals, sponge fields and rock outcrops has helped pinpoint crucial habitats for many important species of fish and marine wildlife. Through the Outer Coast Seafloor Mapping Consortium, the entire sanctuary has been

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

charted to a level of detail that allows tribes, the state of Washington and federal agencies to manage fish and marine wildlife populations and create comprehensive long-term plans for much of the Washington continental shelf. One major change observed through ongoing monitoring is the sea otter population. Hunted to local extinction in the early 1900s, they were reintroduced in 1969 and 1970 — and their comeback has been dramatic. Annual surveys conducted with other federal and state wildlife biologists have recorded a rebound from 59 animals back then to nearly 1,800 in 2016. A healthy sea otter population is important for more reasons than simply restoring one species to its original habitat. As a key link in a complex food chain, sea otters regulate sea urchin populations — which, left unchecked, would dramatically reduce the kelp forests that serve as critical habitat for scores of fish and invertebrate species. Bernthal points to many other success stories for the sanctuary. For one thing, she says, it has enhanced educational opportunities in coastal communities through grants and teacher training: “We’ve emphasized improving ocean literacy and helping local schools improve their STEM education” — science, technology, engineering and math. Local research being carried out in the sanctuary improves students’ understanding of basic science processes and gives them a better appreciation of the world they live in.

LEFT: Ruby Beach (Robert Steelquist) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Kalaloch Creek (Robert Steelquist), Sea nettles (OCNMS/Patrick A’Hearn), Sea stars (OCNMS), Ruby Beach (Robert Steelquist), Elephant seals (OCNMS/ James Lamont), Second Beach (Robert Steelquist), Starfish in eelgrass (© Florian Graner), Octopus (OCNMS)

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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Volunteer opportunities also have expanded through efforts by the sanctuary to prioritize and coordinate a front line of “citizen scientistsâ€? to monitor marine debris and seabird deaths. In addition, the sanctuary has been a leader in mobilizing volunteers for large-scale beach cleanups. Overall, Bernthal feels it has served to create a new awareness and ethic among the public. Olympic Coast National /CTKPG 5CPEVWCT[|

PLAN A VISIT WEBSITE

olympiccoast.noaa.gov PHONE

“If you care about the things in the ocean, if you care about going out to fish, if you care about walking down the beach and experiencing a wilderness coast, you have to care about what’s happening out there,� she says. “You have to create a ‘right relationship’ to the ocean — and that really requires knowing what’s happening in the ocean and how we as humans are affecting it, both positively and negatively. ‘Right relation’ has

360-457-NOAA (6622) DISCOVERY CENTER 115 East Railroad Ave. Suite 301 Port Angeles, WA 98362 NOAA Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

to be informed by knowledge.â€? In her 18 years as sanctuary superintendent, she’s been motivated by one thing: “The connection between people and natural systems — and that’s definitely what the sanctuary is about. It’s about understanding the natural systems and our relationship to the ocean.â€? And no major oil spills. Knock on wood.Â

ROBERT STEELQUIST is a naturalist,

writer, photographer and environmental educator who lives near Sequim. Before retirement, he worked for NOAA for 20 years. He is the author of “The Northwest Coastal Explorer,� published by Timber Press.

OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP: Map courtesy of NOAA OPPOSITE PAGE, BOTTOM, L-R: Destruction Island and a shore crab (Robert Steelquist) LEFT: Cape Alava (OCNMS/Karlyn Langjahr) BELOW: Petroglyphs (OCNMS) BOTTOM: The exploration vessel Nautilus (Ocean Exploration Trust/ NautilusLive)

/'6*#0' 5''25| As recently as one year ago, scientists were aware of only a handful of places along the Olympic Coast where naturally produced methane gas bubbles out of the Ãi>y À° ÌiÀiÃÌ } v À Ì i Õ µÕi V ià of bacteria and varied life forms that surround them, the seeps were considered a curiosity — a footnote to the diversity of an otherwise productive marine ecosystem driven by sunlight, ocean currents and vast quantities of plankton that anchor an entire food chain. But exploration of the continental shelves of the Atlantic coast, Southern California and many other places suggested methane seeps might be more common — and more important — than previously thought. In October 2016, an exploration and research expedition led by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and Robert Ballard’s Ocean Exploration Trust used sophisticated new sonar technology to detect bubble streams emanating from methane seeps in the

Vi> y À vv Ì i " Þ « V >ÃÌ° čL >À` the exploration vessel Nautilus, they found hundreds of methane seeps along the Oregon and Washington coasts. Deepwater seeps off the Oregon Coast have been studied for decades. However, shallow seeps on the Olympic Coast had not received much attention. The Nautilus expedition found not just vents, but whole communities of living organisms, from bacteria to higher life forms, that depend on methane as a food source. In addition to supporting a chemically based food chain, methane escaping Ì i Ãi>y À VÀi>Ìià V>ÀL >Ìià p à ` substances that form rocks on the ocean y À] VÀi>Ì } >À` L ÌÌ >L Ì>Ì > ` supporting deepwater coral and sponge communities.

environments and the range of habitats the provide, particularly the carbonate hard grounds,” he says. “Everybody was really surprised at how many (vents) there were, and the biological variety we saw. It’s something that we don’t really understand. It’s another part of the ocean that we have no knowledge of.” Last year’s discoveries created excitement among scientists as they raised many new questions about the role of methane in the ocean. Researchers at Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary and scores of their colleagues are planning new studies, and Nautilus was tentatively scheduled for another visit this summer. Stay tuned.

Robert Embley, a NOAA scientist based in Newport, Oregon, has studied methane and hydrothermal vents off that state’s coast, primarily in deeper water. “What astonished me was the variety of processes we saw in these methane seep

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

the Westport

LIFE

Photography has long been more than a hobby for Michael Bruce. Since moving to Westport and amid a busy career that included public service as mayor for three terms, he has been focused on showing his community in the best light.

P HO T O S B Y M I C H A E L B R UC E

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

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Behind the lens Michael Bruce sees his nature photography as a form of public service that helps promote Grays Harbor and, in particular, Westport. As a three-term mayor of the V >ÃÌ> wà } Ì Ü > ` Ì ÕÀ à destination from the beginning of 2004 to the end of 2015 he did his share of more traditional public service, but through his photos he can contribute to the community and satisfy his artistic sensibility all at once. Bruce was introduced to photography in the seventh

grade by Lee Mann, one of the Northwest’s best known nature photographers. At the time, Mann was a librarian at Bruce’s junior high school in Sedro-Woolley. Mann quit teaching not long after that and devoted his career to photography. Bruce apprenticed for him from 1967 to 1973. Bruce, who has master’s degrees in speech, business administration and public administration, got caught up in other creative outlets and moved away from photography for about 25 years, but returned to it in

2000, when he moved to Westport. He has used Nikon cameras for years and right now shoots with a D90, D300 and D750. Bruce retired from the Ocosta School District in 2010 and currently Ü À Ã >Ã > V « > Vi vwViÀ v À Westport Seafood Inc. He has done some professional photography, but he doesn’t solicit work, preferring to concentrate on nature photography and shoot whatever he wants. Some of his work is for Ã> i i >Ì w i>ÀÌ> iÀ V>°V É «À w iÃÉ V >i LÀÕVi° Ì °

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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gg EVENTS

our favorite

EVENTS JUNE 3

Wearable Art Show Artists of all media types create functional and not-so-functional pieces of spectacular fashion at the Ocean Shores Convention Center. 3-4

Festival of Colors Kite-flying weekend on the beach at Ocean Shores. 4

Grays Harbor Symphony Featuring orchestral masterwork selections conducted by William Dyer at the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts in South Aberdeen.

Timeless Elegance at

10

Flag Day Parade Through downtown Ocean Shores, starting at the city gates and ending at the Convention Center. Biggest Flag Day parade in Western Washington. 16-18

Affordable Prices

Beach Volleyball Seabrook will be the site of the second annual tournament hosted by the Alki Volleyball Association.

Opera Series GHC Opera Workshop performers in a series of comedic opera scenes from Mozart, Rossini and more at the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts in South Aberdeen. 17-18

Northwest Garlic Festival Celebrate this exalted bulb in Ocean Park. This festival was born out of love for great, garlic-laden cuisine.

Jewelry Store, Inc.

201 E. Wishkah St. Downtown Aberdeen 532-6280 Mon.-Fri. 10:00-5:30 Sat. 10:00-3:00

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

23-25

Sand & Sawdust Festival At the Ocean Shores Convention Center and on the main Ocean Shores beach. Sand sculpting competition and chainsaw artist auctions daily.

Rusty Scupper’s Pirate Daze Come to Westport for the 15th annual event that will feature pirate crews from all over the Pacific Northwest, live music, contests and longboat races.

JULY 1

4

Founders Day

Splash Festival

A parade and music celebrate the founders of Aberdeen.

Aberdeen’s annual daylong 4th of July celebration, featuring live music, food and plenty of fun for kids, capped off by a professional fireworks show at Morrison Riverside Park.

Tokeland Parade & Celebration This old-fashioned community parade has grown to more than 200 entrants. Starts at 11 a.m. at the Tokeland Marina. Picnic lunch follows at Tokeland Hotel. 2

Trek Across Tokeland Register at 8 a.m., trek starts at 9 at the Tradewinds on the Bay event center.

Aberdeen’s signature Fourth of July is a little bit of American culture for everyone.

3-4

Old Fashioned Fourth of July Celebration Held on the grounds of the Westport Maritime Museum in the Marina District from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade & Art in the Park In downtown Ocean Park, it’s a true slice of Americana. Art in the Park at Sheldon Park will feature the works of local artists, food vendors and more.

Fireworks Free fireworks shows start at dusk in Westport’s Marina District and in Tokeland near the Shoalwater Bay Casino and on the Bolstad Avenue beach approach in Long Beach and Quinault Beach Resort & Casino in Ocean Shores. The shows begin around 10 p.m. 7-9

Windriders Kite Festival Competitions, demonstrations, games, auction and high-flying fun at the Grayland beach approach.

BRIDAL SEASON IS HERE!

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® 43

gg EVENTS Call 360-532-1900 300 Myrtle St. Hoquiam, WA

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Bear Festival In McCleary. The festival features a car show, a parade, games, food and craft vendors, and, of course, the bear stew. 8

Midnight Cruisers Rod Fest Annual festival in downtown Aberdeen. 12

Sandsations The 33rd annual sand-sculpting extravaganza returns to Long Beach. 14-15

Clamshell Railroad Days Join the annual celebration of the “Clamshell Railroad,” which ran with tides along the Long Beach Peninsula for 41 years between 1889 and 1930.

ArtSations

Dr. David Westby and Dr. Dan Brown

Peninsula Art Association members put their work on display and up for sale at the Old Train Depot in downtown Long Beach. 15

I pets could If drive, it’s where dr they’d go!

Historic Montesano Car Show

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From 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., the 15th annual car show hits the streets. The show typically draws more than 200 registered cars.

Eastside Street Rods Show ‘N Shine Vintage vehicles are placed on display along Westport’s Westhaven Drive.

Cabins Oceanfront Units Jacuzzis Fireplaces Kitchenettes

22

Aberdeen Artwalk Annual downtown summer artwalk event featuring lots of art, food and music. 22-23

Tokeland Wood & Art Fest

Great seaside lodging at an affordable price

Food and original art from many disciplines, on the grounds of the historic Tokeland Hotel. 28-30

Bikers at the Beach Motorcycle event at the Ocean Shores Convention Center, with Hog Wild Weekend also ongoing simultaneously at Quinault Beach Resort and Casino. 29-30

Long Beach NPRA Rodeo The rodeo features saddle bronc, bareback and bull riding, barrel racing and steer wrestling, as well as team, calf and breakaway roping.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

AUGUST 4-6

Willapa Harbor Festival This northern Pacific County tradition features live music, a parade, food and craft vendors. Held in downtown Raymond and free for the whole family. 5

Elk River Challenge Bring your kayak, canoe, rowboat or surfboard with paddles or oars. Contestants start their human-powered race at the foot of the Elk River Bridge near Westport and race up into the Elk River estuary. 9-13

Grays Harbor County Fair At the fairgrounds in Elma. Five days of family fun begins at 10 a.m. on Wednesday, Aug. 9, and keeps 12-hour shifts throughout the week. More information is available at www.ghcfairgrounds.com. Adult admission is $10, and senior, youth and military discounts are available. 11-13

Grayland Open Jet Ski Competition Off the beach near Grayland Road beach approach. This free event for spectators will bring dozens of riders for a stunt competition, motosurf racing and a big-air competition. 18-20

12’s Fan Fest and Beach Party In Ocean Shores, with events at the Convention Center, around town and at Quinault Beach Resort & Casino. Largest preseason gathering of Seahawks fans. 19

Jazz & Oysters The 31st annual festival moves to Long Beach’s Veterans Field in 2017 and features Pacific Northwest jazz ensembles and Willapa Bay oysters.

Grays Harbor Pride Festival Downtown Hoquiam festival to raise awareness for the LGBTQ community. 19-20

Westport Art Festival 20th anniversary celebration. A juried show of fine art and crafts at various locations in the Marina District. 21-27

International Kite Festival World-renowned kite flyers converge on the Long Beach Peninsula annually for a vivid celebration of summer.

WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

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gg EVENTS 23-26

Pacific County Fair Enjoy everything from carnival rides and tasty treats to livestock shows and live music in Menlo. Enjoy a slice of Pacific County life.

SEPTEMBER 1-4

Come Play on Labor Day It’s an event, an invitation and an early autumn ritual in South Bend. Watch the grand parade, take in the fireworks, visit the carnival, join the Tin Man Triathlon. 2-3

Kelpers Festival and Shake Rat Rendezvous Featuring a tug-of-war competition between Moclips and Pacific Beach, kid’s parade, full parade in Pacific Beach on Sunday and various logging competitions. 2

71st Seafood Festival & Craft Show This perennial favorite features heaping plates of great food, live music and local crafters on the Westport Maritime Museum grounds.

Vettes at the Marina Dozens of classic Corvettes along the Westport Marina. 2-4

Chinook Arts Festival The festival features blown glass, stained glass, photography, jewelry, oil and watercolor paintings, pottery, wood sculptures and more in this Long Beach Peninsula town. 8

Slow Drag at the Port Fans line Howerton Way at the Port of Ilwaco to watch this classic car competition where slow and steady wins the race. Vehicles accelerate for about 15 feet before coasting the final 200 yards to the finish line. The one that stops closest to the line is the victor. 9

Brady’s Oyster Feed Oysters any way you like ‘em at Brady’s Oysters near Westport, just west of the Elk River Bridge on State Route 105, from noon to 5 p.m.

Loggers’ Playday One the nation’s last surviving classic logging shows, where pros share their skills and compete for the title of All Around Logger. Daylong celebration includes a downtown parade and fireworks at the end of the logging show and competition at Hoquiam’s historic Olympic Stadium.

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

A Unique Journey into the Pacific Northwest Coastal Lifestyle.

Take a relaxing tour through Washington Coast Magazine, celebrating people, places, events and cultural enrichment. There’s food, wine, homes, anecdotes, shopping, day trips and proud history in every issue. Just $14 for a one-year subscription. Published seasonally, you are guaranteed to come across stories in every issue to share with your friends and family about this hidden treasure, known as coastal life in the Pacific Northwest. Just use the subscription cards bound into this issue.

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WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

47

gg WHO & WHY

WHY I LOVE IT HERE: by Ellen Pickell T R AN SC R I B E D A N D E D I T ED B Y KA T B R YA N T P HOT O S P R O V I D E D B Y E LL EN P I C KEL L

Her life on the Harbor Ellen Pickell grew up in New Jersey and lived in Idaho before settling on the Harbor in January 1967. She has been teaching piano independently since 1969 and as an adjunct professor at Grays Harbor College since 2012. She sells her photographic works at the Grays Harbor Public Market in Hoquiam. Her community involvement has included terms on the boards of the Grays Harbor Economic Development Council and the Grays Harbor Music Teachers Association. She and her husband live on a ranch west of Hoquiam, raising grass-fed beef cattle. They have two `>Õ} ÌiÀÃ > ` wÛi grandchildren.

We came here because my husband graduated in forestry from the University of Idaho, and the best job offer he had came from Rayonier. So they moved us and our 2-week-old baby over here, and we’ve been here ever since. We came the end of January in 1967. … We bought our first house partly because there were massive daffodils blooming along the driveway the day we first looked at it. Turned out the house had massive leaks. I was pinning needles to the ceilings with trailing thread to several buckets because I couldn’t stand the sound of the drips! In 1972 we started our own logging company, Tree Farm Services. … We had a really good crew, and we operated that until 1988. And during that time my husband, Bill, was instrumental in starting both the Washington Contract Loggers Association and the American Loggers Council. He eventually became CEO of the state organization. But we didn’t move to Olympia; we stayed here. He commuted during those years.

Shortly after we moved here, I began teaching piano. I taught in my home for a number of years. … But we live several miles out of town, so I asked my church if I could teach there. At some point I had about 40 students, and it was beginning to interfere with times when the church needed the space. So then I opened a studio on Seventh Street in Hoquiam, which I kept for quite a few years. (Now) I work at (Grays Harbor College) as an adjunct professor when I have students.

On photography At first, I wanted a camera to take pictures of the kids. And then I took flowers, and I took this, and I took that. I took it to be developed, and my friend Les Morgan, who worked (at the camera shop), said, “This

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

ABOVE: Ellen Pickell at the piano in her home studio, west of Hoquiam. (Photo by Erica P. Hollen) BELOW: The barn, originally built in the early 1940s, is on our place. The vase was inherited from a previous owner of our first Grays Harbor home.

is the best photo I’ve ever seen of a flower.” And I said, “Yeah? Wow!” So Les kept teaching me every time I took my film in. I got so excited when I finished a film, I ran to town to get it developed, and I ran to town again as soon as it was finished. Les was a wonderful photographer who lived here and had a studio. … Couldn’t ask for a better mentor. First of all, he said, “I think you should enter this wonderful floral in the county fair.” And I got first place. Then I started marketing, mostly through Gallery Marjuli in Ocean Shores. That was a sad thing for me when they closed, because I haven’t replaced a location out there. I think it’s been five or six years since I opened a booth at the Grays Harbor Public Market. Now, wherever I go, the camera goes with me.

We like it here. We don’t really want to go live anyplace else. We have a lot of good people here, and we have an appreciation for small towns.

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WESTPORT HISTORICAL HOME FOR SALE

TOP: This home is on the North Shore Road around Lake Quinault. We believe the Kestners were still living on the homestead in the late ’60s. The photo was taken from the bridge approaching the buildings. ABOVE: It was a late January afternoon, and the sky began to color. As quickly as possible, I got to the 28th Street Landing in Hoquiam and ran down the boat ramp walkway to capture this glorious sunset.

Why she stayed We like it here. We don’t really want to go live anyplace else. We have a lot of good people here, and we have an appreciation for small towns. And it’s great fun to work with the art community and music community. We live about 6 miles west of Hoquiam on Highway 109. It’s interesting, our place was actually a Lincoln land grant to a Union Army colonel. But you don’t talk about that if you happen to be visiting your friends in the Southeast. It’s been a great place to raise our girls, and we have three grandchildren who’ve grown up in the Harbor and now are away, following their dreams. We plan to stay.

This 1913 classically restored beach home has been expanded with 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, newly remodeled kitchen and detached 2 car garage with shop & storage space. The extra-large double lot is fenced for dogs, kids & gardens. It is near the lighthouse, beach, baseball field, County Transit, USPS, library & grocery store. Address: 205 S. Aberdeen St., Westport, WA Call Agent Lisa Newhouse @ 360 580-9899 Riley Jackson Real Estate, Inc. Offered at $209,000 WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE | Summer 2017

49

gg LAST SHOT

Night beauty: Milky Way and beach

A 30-second exposure captures a starry night at Second Beach, near La Push. Photo by Robert Steelquist

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Summer 2017 | WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE

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