Special Sections - Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018 by Sound Publishing

LIVING on the peninsula WORKING WORDSMITHS A SAFE HAVEN

Writers find encouragement in PT

OLD DAYS, GLORY DAYS West End inspires local authors

WRITTEN IN THE STARS

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WINTER 2018

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Table of Contents

06 | peninsula events calendar

Check out what’s happening on the Peninsula in January, February and March

07 | arts, culture and entertainment

Writers find safe havens and encouragement in downtown Port Townsend businesses

09 | meet our writers

Say hello to the people who make up our Living on the Peninsula team

10 | outdoor recreation

Choose your own adventure this winter with some of our ideas for Peninsula day hikes

14 | from old days to glory days

The West End of the Olympic Peninsula is filled with inspiration for these authors

17 | writers on the spit

Sequim writing groups welcome wordsmiths of all ages and experiences

18 | mysteries born of travel

Local novelists Charlotte and Aaron Elkins show readers the world through their myriad works

20 | the daytripper

Blustery weather won’t stop our writer and husband from visiting the Dungeness area

24 | written in the stars

Tidepools magazine students at Peninsula College gain ground in first stage of production

26 | pinch of peninsula

Author Kate McDermott Q&A reveals the story behind the piemaker, plus a cozy winter recipe

29 | the living end

LIVING ON THE PENINSULA Vol. 14, No. 4

Produced and published by PENINSULA DAILY NEWS and SEQUIM GAZETTE Advertising Department 305 W. First St., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360-452-2345 • peninsuladailynews.com 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 • 360-683-3311 • sequimgazette.com Terry R. Ward, regional publisher Steve Perry, general manager | Eran Kennedy, advertising director Editorial & Production: Laura Foster & Brenda Hanrahan, special sections editors Advertising Sales: 360-683-3311 • 360-452-2345 ©2018 Peninsula Daily News | ©2018 Sequim Gazette

The Peninsula is a special place for writers to explore the wonder of words Winter 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa

CALENDAR OF EVENTS JANUARY, FEBRUARY & MARCH 2019

DECEMBER

FORKS/WEST END • Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve Gala and Dinner, Lake Crescent Lodge, 416 Lake Crescent Road, times and prices vary. PORT ANGELES • Every Saturday, Port Angeles Farmers Market, at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. SEQUIM • Every Wednesday, Morning Bird Walks, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • First Friday Art Walks, every month, art venues throughout Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. • Dec. 29: Whiskey River: A Tribute to Lynyrd Skynyrd, 7 Cedars Casino, 270756 U.S. Highway 101, 10 p.m., no cover. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • Through Dec. 29: “Every Christmas Story Ever Told (and then some),” Key City Public Theatre, 419 Washington St., times vary. • Through Dec. 30: “Spirit of the Yule,” Key City Public Theatre, 419 Washington St., times vary. • Dec. 31: First Night Celebration, Port Townsend City Hall, 250 Madison St., 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.

JANUARY

FORKS/WEST END • Jan. 1: New Year’s Day Buffet, Lake Crescent Lodge, 416 Lake Crescent Road, 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., prices vary. • Jan. 19: Bogachiel Garden Club Annual Tea, Assembly of God Church, 81 Huckleberry Lane, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. PORT ANGELES • Every Saturday, Port Angeles Farmers Market, at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

6 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

• Through Jan. 6: Winter Ice Village & Ice Skating, 121 W. Front St., 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. • Jan. 12: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. • Jan. 26: Port Angeles Community Awards Gala, Vern Burton Community Center, 308 E. Fourth St., 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.

SEQUIM • Every Wednesday, Morning Bird Walks, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • Jan. 5: First Friday Art Walk’s “Whodunnit Downtown,” starts at Sequim’s Sunshine Cafe, 145 W. Washington St., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. • Jan. 12: Music Jam, Shipley Center, 921 E. Hammond St., 1:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. • Jan. 18-27: Olympic Theatre Arts presents “Bakersfield Mist, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times vary. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • Jan. 13: Community Arts Film Series: Portrait of Willy, Rose Theatre, 235 Taylor St., noon. • Jan. 25: NWMC Salty Cinema: Lifeboat, NW Maritime Center, 431 Water St., 7 p.m.

FEBRUARY

PORT ANGELES • Every Saturday, Port Angeles Farmers Market, at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. • Feb. 2: Run the Peninsula, Elwha Bridge race on Olympic Discovery Trail, 9:30 a.m. • Feb. 9: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. • Feb. 23: Frosty Moss Relay, 80-mile relay race on Olympic Discovery Trail. SEQUIM • Every Wednesday, Morning Bird Walks, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • First Friday Art Walks, every month, art venues throughout Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.

• Feb. 8-24: Olympic Theatre Arts presents “Death of a Salesman, 414 N. Sequim Ave., times vary. • Feb. 16-17: NPBA Building Expo, Sequim High School, 601 N. Sequim Ave., 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. (Feb. 16), 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (Feb. 17).

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • Feb. 10: Community Arts Film Series: The Barefoot Artist, Rose Theatre, 235 Taylor St., noon. • Feb. 23: PTFF Night Before the Oscars Gala, NW Maritime Center, 431 Water St., 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

MARCH

PORT ANGELES • Every Saturday, Port Angeles Farmers Market, at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. • March 9: Second Weekend Artwalk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. SEQUIM • Every Wednesday, Morning Bird Walks, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. • First Friday Art Walks, every month, art venues throughout Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • March 2: PT Education Foundation Spring Soiree, NW Maritime Center, 431 Water St., 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. • March 17: Community Arts Film Series: Levitated Mass, Rose Theatre, 235 Taylor St., noon. All event information listed here is up to date as of press time. Do you have an event you’d like to see listed in our March edition of Living on the Peninsula? Email special sections editor Laura Foster at lfoster@sound publishing.com with your late-March, April, May and June event information. Publication of submitted events is not guaranteed.

ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

Fiction writer and longtime Port Townsender Adrianne Harun reads from her new book, “Catch, Release,” last month at the Writers’ Workshoppe and Imprint Books.

Writers Find Safe Havens Story and photos by Diane Urbani de la Paz

ome inside, out of the cold, and have a seat with Virginia Woolf and Langston Hughes. They’re gazing down to you, she wistful, he with a sly smile. If you love good writing, this is your spot. The Writers’ Workshoppe and Imprint Books of Port Townsend are staying warm these days and nights. Shoppers arrive to browse during the day. At night, a procession of writers from across the Pacific Northwest slip in to read from their latest novels and memoirs. And for those looking to develop their writerly abilities, the Workshoppe hosts classes and intensives. The New Year Write-a-thon with poet Lauren Davis, for example, starts Jan. 5, and “Novel Editing: The Focused Draft Approach” with Nicole J. Persun runs Jan. 7

A duo of businesses, aiming to develop the abilities of a capable writing community, is thriving in downtown Port Townsend through Feb. 11. Such activities have fees and often fill up, while the author readings are free and plentiful through the winter. They show off the region’s formidable writing community. Best-selling novelist Erica Bauermeister (“The School of Essential Ingredients,” “Joy for Beginners,” “The Lost Art of Mixing”) and journalist Jennifer Haupt (“In the Shadow of 10,000 Hills”) appeared at a free event with Workshoppe-Imprint co-owner Anna Quinn in October. Adrianne Harun, a 37-year resident of Port Townsend whose new story collection, “Catch, Release” has fellow writers Tim O’Brien and Joyce Carol Oates heaping praise, gave a reading in November. Kim Stafford, Oregon’s poet laureate, was booked for an evening of stories, poems and songs on Dec. 8, and Washington state poet laureate Claudia Castro Luna is slated for a workshop and reading Feb. 9.

Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

MORE INFORMATION The Writers’ Workshoppe and Imprint Books, 820 Water St., Port Townsend, is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., with additional evening hours for author events. For those who crave a place for silent work on their projects, a “quiet write” space is open Sundays, Mondays and Fridays; the drop-in fee is $5 per hour, or writers can purchase a “quiet-write” punch card for discounted rates. For details and to reserve a space, stop in or phone 360-379-2617. Information about the store’s offerings — and about co-owner Anna Quinn’s 2018 novel, “The Night Child” — can be found at WritersWorkshoppe. com. The Workshoppe hosts numerous author events and workshops. Here are some highlights of coming weeks: • The New Year Write-a-thon with Lauren Davis, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 5, $40. • The launch of “Each Wild Thing’s Consent,” a poetry chapbook by Lauren Davis with readings, punch and pie, 7 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 12, free. • Reading from “The End of Ice” by award-winning war journalist and mountaineer Dahr Jamail, 7 p.m. (doors at 6:15 p.m.), Friday, Jan 18. • Novel Editing: The Focused-Draft Approach with Nicole J. Person, 3:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. each Monday from Jan. 7 through Feb. 11, $150. • A workshop and reading with Washington poet laureate Claudia Castro Luna, Saturday, Feb. 9, details to be announced.

8 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

In the audience at one of these readings — or elsewhere around town — you might catch sight of other literary figures who live here. Rikki Ducornet (“Netsuke,” “Gazelle,” “Entering Fire” and many other books) is another longtime Port Townsender. Sheila Bender, whose works include “Creative Writing DeMYSTiFied,” “Writing and Publishing Personal Essays” and “Keeping a Journal You Love,” hosts the Sunday “In Conversation” program on KPTZ-FM. Julie Christine Johnson is a novelist (“In Another Life,” “The Crows of Beara”) and the program manager at the Port Townsend School of the Arts. Award-winning writers Annie Proulx (whose works include “The Shipping News” and “Brokeback Mountain”) and Elizabeth Ann Scarborough (“The Healer’s War” and numerous others) call this town home. Quinn, after many years of operating the Writers’ Workshoppe and Imprint Books with her husband, poet and teacher Peter Quinn, this year published her first novel. “The Night Child” sparked rave reviews and sent Quinn on a book tour from Portland and Seattle to Nashville and Denver. Attend a reading at the Workshoppe, and you’ll be treated to choice advice on the art and craft of writing. Harun, when asked how she comes up with her stories, said she used to hang out at the Port Townsend ferry dock. “We’d see the people get off, and I’d have my kids pick someone and tell a story about them,” she said. City streets are also fertile ground: Recently Harun was walking uptown when she found herself behind three little girls. Listening, she entered their world for a minute. They spoke about the big maple trees, rosebushes and the blackberry vines, in a low-to-the-ground version of the town. Then there are times, Harun said, when she’s awakened with a perfectly formed line of prose in her mind. One morning, she came to with an entire story — “The Unseen Ear of God,” which appears in her collection “The King of Limbo” — in her head. That’s happened to her only once so far. This past October’s author event was titled “To Tell Your Truth: Fiction or Memoir?” The foursome together for the evening were Jennie Shortridge, Bauermeister, Haupt and Quinn. The room was packed. For Quinn, fiction opened up a new world. She’d begun working on a memoir, but found her way to a novel — and liberation. Her imagination unleashed, her characters conceived,

she now had the space to ask, What if this happened … and this …? We’re living in a new era, Quinn said, one in which we can experiment with memoir, fiction, poetry and prose. There are many truths: emotional, physical, spiritual. There are many paths to these truths. “Right now is a very freeing time,” added Quinn, as she urged writers to dive into the depths of mind and heart. Haupt, too, tried writing a memoir; hers was about working in post-genocide Rwanda. For years, she tried to write that book. One day, she realized it was time to take the novel approach. It was as if she, like Quinn, had let herself out of a box. She created characters both wise and conflicted, women who would walk paths like those Haupt had walked — so they could together explore past and future. “In the Shadow of 10,000 Hills” brings us to Rwanda in the year 2000, where Rachel, an American, is searching for her father, photographer Henry Shepherd. It’s six years after the Tutsi-Hutu massacres. The quest brings her to the Virunga Mountains and the orphanage where she meets Lillian, a black woman from Atlanta who runs the place. She built the orphanage with Henry, who has since disappeared. Rachel remains, hoping to find out something about her father’s fate. She meets a young Tutsi woman, Nadine, who barely survived the genocide, and Tucker, a doctor from California who also lives with horrific memories. “Their stories and the photos Henry left behind help (Rachel) to understand what it really means to have strength of character and to love,” a Publishers Weekly critic wrote of Haupt’s book. “Even though it’s ostensibly about the Rwandan genocide, Haupt’s story is one of humanity and hope.” At the Writers’ Workshoppe discussion, Haupt offered hard-earned wisdom. “No matter what you’re writing,” she said, “you have to feel that passion for it,” and if you don’t, time to rethink the project. As you create, do not aim for a particular market. In the fluid world of publishing, it’s a misuse of energy to try to follow the fashion. Bottom line, Haupt said, “You have to write what’s in your soul.” 

Anna Quinn, co-owner of the Writers’ Workshoppe and Imprint Books in Port Townsend, offers encouragement to writers of all stripes.

Meet OUr

WRITERS CHRISTI BARON is a thirdgeneration West Ender and current editor of the Forks Forum. She became a writer late in life and quite by accident. In 2006, at a weekly Forks Community Orchestra rehearsal, drummer for the group Chiggers Stokes asked if anyone would like to take over a column he was writing called “West End Neighbor,” a submission that appears every other week in the Peninsula Daily News. Baron said, “I’ll give it a try!” and for the next seven years, she shared stories about the West End of Clallam County. In the fall of 2013, the position of editor of the Forks Forum opened, and she jumped at the chance to be the editor of her hometown newspaper. Her favorite authors are Frank Norris and Thomas Wolfe.

MICHAEL DASHIELL is editor of the Sequim Gazette. He joined the staff as an intern out of Western Washington University in 2001 and has worked as a general assignment reporter and sports editor before being promoted to his current position in 2010. “I love stories — telling them, reading them, listening to them, seeing them played out on screen. “As a journalist, I get to tell others’ stories, work I consider a privilege and an honor. While the process isn’t always easy or gratifying, being part of someone’s story — even if it’s the role of the messenger — is something I always cherish.” His favorite writers include Cormac McCarthy, David Guterson, Lauren Hillenbrand, Khaled Hosseini and Rick Bragg.

From earliest childhood memories, REV. PAMELA DOUGLASSMITH has always loved the wonder of words and the magic of books. Through them, she journeys the world beyond time and space. She’s always got a novel on her bedside table to escape into. Her favorite books both to read and to write are about spirituality, travel and historical ﬁction. Having drawn from the well of books all her life, she considers it an honor to contribute her writings for others to perhaps discover and be blessed by. Her favorite authors include Diana Gabaldon, Deborah Harkness, Susanna Kearsley and Alice O. Howell. Her favorite book of all time is “The Mists of Avalon” by Marion Zimmer Bradley, and she loves the “Harry Potter”series.

LAURA FOSTER (formerly Lofgren) started as a news assistant for Peninsula Daily News before moving into her position as special sections editor. She got her start at The Berkshire Eagle in Pittsﬁeld, Mass., immediately after graduating from Kent State University in Kent, Ohio. Foster moved to the Olympic Peninsula is December 2013 with her now-husband, Michael, and their Manx cat, Bearclaw. Since making Port Angeles their home, they have adopted another

Manx named Misiek. Foster has several hobbies that have evolved since coming to the West Coast, including photography, hiking, kayaking and camping, as well as painting and cooking. Her love of writing and her passion for design also continue at home. Just some of her favorite books include the “Harry Potter” series by J.K. Rowling, “The Shining” by Stephen King and “You Are a Badass: How to Stop Doubting Your Greatness and Start Living an Awesome Life” by Jen Sincero.

BRENDA HANRAHAN is a special sections editor at Peninsula Daily News. She moved to the Olympic Peninsula from Kansas 17 years ago to work as a PDN reporter and has held various posts at the newspaper throughout the years. In addition, she owns and operates Fiddleheads in downtown Port Angeles with her husband, Chris. An avid reader of books, newspapers and magazines, she also enjoys the design and layout aspect of the publishing industry. She is comfortable behind a

DIANE URBANI DE LA PAZ has been a writer since her days as a music critic at the Chico News & Review. She’s served on the staffs of weeklies and dailies in San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria, Calif., Salt Lake City, Utah, and Tacoma before joining Peninsula Daily News in 2006. She’s now a freelance journalist contributing to the PDN and other publications in the Paciﬁc Northwest. She’s also working on a book about the love letters her father-inlaw wrote to his young wife from the battleﬁelds of Europe during World War II. Some of her favorite reads are “Telling True Stories,” a collection of essays edited by Wendy Call and Mark Kramer; “The Book of Joy” by His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, and “Wild” by Cheryl Strayed. camera and is recruited to photograph weddings, gatherings and other special events for family and friends. Landscape photography is a passion, and free time is often spent hunkered down on a Peninsula beach waiting for the perfect shot. Her favorite books include “The Snowy Day” by Ezra Jack Keats, “A Wrinkle in Time” by Madeleine L’Engle, “The Catcher in the Rye” by J.D. Salinger, “The Grapes of Wrath” by John Steinbeck, short stories by Edgar Allan Poe and Lonely Planet travel guides. Winter 2018 Living on the PeninsuLa 9

OUTDOOR RECREATION

CHOOSE YOUR OWN

ADVENTURE

Always keep your pets on leash on Olympic Peninsula beach hikes. Opposite page: A popular hike — particularly for those with dogs — Mount Townsend offers great views of the region from its peak in the winter for those willing to brave the snow and wind. photos by Michael Dashiell

Create an action plan to get out and enjoy the seasonal ’scapes By Michael Dashiell In a quick, informal and completely unscientific poll, I’ve found that my friends and family gain their inspiration from a wide variety of sources. I imagine it’s no surprise to anyone that I get my inspiration from other writers. In my childhood years, it was “Choose Your Own Adventure” books; in my preteens years, it was youth-targeted classics like “Where the Red Fern Grows”; and in my mid- to late-teens, it was everything from poetry to Thoreau to F. Scott Fitzgerald to whatever I could read between classes. As an adult, I find I’m primarily interested in two kinds of writing: “how-the-heck-did-that-writer-getthat-story?” non-fiction, and adventure. Case in point: After finishing Jim Whitaker’s “A Life on the Edge” (if you haven’t read this, go out and get a copy right now … after you finish this edition of Living on the Peninsula, of course), and I’m just about through David Simon’s “Homicide: A Year on the Killing Streets.” After that? On to finish “The River of Doubt,” Candace Millard’s fascinating tale of Theodore Roosevelt’s journey in the South American wilds.

Fortunately, we don’t have to climb Mt. Everest or explore some uncharted river to get inspiration when we look for adventures here on the Olympic Peninsula. Here are a few of my favorite local winter hikes, adventures you can make in just about any weather the Northwest can throw at you:

HURRICANE RIDGE/HURRICANE HILL

If the ridge road is open — and that’s no guarantee during the winter months, so make sure to go online or call the road conditions line at 360-565-3131 — this is the quintessential Olympic Peninsula hiker’s playground. If you can manage it, try a guided snowshoe hike up Hurricane Hill for breathtaking, 360-degree views abound ($7 for adults, $3 for youth (6-15), free for 5 and younger. Group size is limited to 25 people. Sign-up begins at the Hurricane Ridge information desk 30 minutes before the walk). For more experienced snowshoe enthusiasts, this is a great hike to do on your own daylight time. Length: 2.9 miles from the Visitor Center to Hurricane Hill; 2.6 miles from the Visitor Center to Switchback Trail via Sunrise Ridge. Difficulty: Varies depending on snow and wind

conditions. On average, it’s a moderate to difficult hike. Snow covers many of the standard trail markings. Trails near the center are easy to moderate. Getting there: From downtown Sequim, take U.S. Highway 101 west to Port Angeles. Turn left on Race Street and follow the road as it changes to Mount Angeles Road and then Hurricane Ridge Road. From downtown Port Angeles to the ridge is about 17 miles. Entrance fee or pass required. On the web: tinyurl.com/LOP-HurricaneWinter, nps.gov/olym for daily fees, passes and special discounts.

For the 2018-19 winter season, Hurricane Ridge Road is scheduled to be open Fridays through Sundays through March 31 and open during winter break Dec. 24 and Dec. 26 through Jan. 1, plus holiday Mondays on Jan. 21 and Feb. 18. For further information, call 360-452-4501. Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

BEACH HIKES

The view from Hurricane Hill is worth the 3.2-mile (round trip) hike from the Hurricane Ridge Visitors Center. Below: Good boots and hiking poles are a good idea on winter hikes up Mount Townsend. photos by Michael Dashiell

The Peninsula has a multitude of lovely beach hikes, and with the winter season boasting dramatic weather and landscapes what better time to enjoy the crashing of the waves? In Sequim: Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge/ Dungeness Recreation Area, Port Williams Beach. In Port Angeles: Elwha River beach. West End: Rialto Beach. These easy day hikes work fine even under the wettest of winter conditions; however, bring a change of footwear and socks for the ride home. Difficulty: Easy. Getting there: To the Dungeness Spit from downtown Sequim, hop on U.S. Highway 101 eastbound to Kitchen-Dick Road. Take a right and follow three miles to the Dungeness Recreation Area entrance. Take a left on Voice of America Boulevard and follow to the Dungeness Spit trailhead. To Port Williams: Take Sequim-Dungeness Way north, then a right on Port Williams Road. Follow that until you hit water. To Elwha River beach: Take U.S. Highway 101 west past Port Angeles, then state Highway 112 to Place Road; turn right. Follow that north for about 4 miles to Elwha Dike Road. Parking is on your right.

To Rialto Beach: Take U.S. Highway 101 west a little more than 70 miles. Turn right (west) on Highway 101/ La Push Road to Mora Road. Ample parking is available at the end of the road. Other information: Make sure to chip in a $3 dayuse fee at the Dungeness Spit (children 16 and younger are free). Don’t forget “doggie bags” if you choose to take the dog(s) to Port Williams, Rialto or the Elwha. On the web: fws.gov/refuge/dungeness; clallam.net/ parks/portwilliams.html; nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/visitingmora-and-rialto.htm. Note: Be sure to monitor the tides and plan appropriately; low tide is always your best bet for a safe hike.

DEER RIDGE TRAIL

This one is sometimes a pain to get to with any early season snow — the forest service roads can be quite slick — but I like this one for the solitude and the fact I can bring my hiking dog with me, since pets are allowed on trails in Olympic National Forest and most statemanaged Department of Resources land.

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12 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

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Deer Ridge Trail offers impressive views of Mount Baldy, and further back toward Buckhorn Mountain, Mount Deception, across the Graywolf River and into the Buckhorn wilderness. Length: 3.6 miles to Olympic National Park boundary; 5.2 miles to Deer Park Campground. Difficulty: Moderate. Getting there: Drive 2.5 miles west of Sequim on U.S. Highway 101 to Taylor Cutoff Road. Follow sweeping right turn onto Lost Mountain Road. Turn left on Forest Service Road No. 2780, then right on Forest Service Road No. 2875. Look for trailhead and parking area at Slab Camp on right. No pass is required. On the web: nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/deer-ridge-trail. htm.

MOUNT TOWNSEND

A hike probably better suited for spring and summer, Mount Townsend still offers spectacular views at the top — if you are willing to work through the snow. There are actually four trails to the top, but I prefer the Upper Trailhead start. A semi-steep set of switchbacks above Camp Windy brings you to the intersection with the Silver Lake Trail at the three-mile mark. Stay right to crest the mountain. The top is windy, and if there’s snow on the ground, bring your hiking poles and crampons. Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous Getting there: Take U.S. Highway 101 south from the Quilcene Ranger Station 0.9 miles. Take the slight right onto the Penny Creek Road and drive through the grounds of the Penny Creek Quarry. In 1.5 miles, take the left fork onto Forest Road No. 27 and follow it 13.5

Hikers can check out the changing shoreline at the mouth of the Elwha River, accessible off Elwha Dike Road. photo by Michael Dashiell miles before turning left onto FR27-190. The trailhead is at the end of this spur road. On the web: tinyurl.com/LOP-TownsendTrail. Whatever hiking action you seek this winter season, remember to always let someone know what your plans are, bring the 10 essentials and dress for the weather. Always be mentally prepared, too, to change your

plans. With the Peninsula’s winter weather changing on a dime, you might have to call it quits early. And if you plan on bringing your four-legged companion(s), double check that dogs are allowed on the trail.  Michael Dashiell is the editor of the Sequim Gazette. Reach him at mdashiell@sequimgazette.com.

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Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

From the old days to the glory days West End inspires local authors By Christi Baron If you take the time to listen, every person has a story to tell. Forks resident Lonnie Archibald has taken the time and has been listening, and for about the past 30 years, he has been documenting the stories of his friends and neighbors on the West End and even a little beyond. Archibald didn’t start out to be an author; he came to Forks while still in high school. He attended the first classes held at Peninsula College and then attended classes at Edison Tech in Seattle. He met and married his wife, Marge, while in Seattle, although they had met before in fourth grade when they both attended grade school in Sequim. The Archibalds were living in Seattle when friend Ron Shearer told Archibald about a job opportunity at Peninsula Telephone and Telegraph in Forks. The couple soon moved to Forks, and Archibald began a career with the local phone company. In his spare time, he and Marge enjoyed the outdoor activities the West End had to offer, and Archibald was always taking photos. In 1968, Archibald sold his first photo to the Forks Forum and over the years he has documented many landmarks now gone, as well as local sporting events, local disasters and scenic shots. His photos have appeared in many Northwest newspapers, as well as the Associated Press. As he was submitting his photos to the local paper, he began to write two columns for the Forks Forum: “Outdoor Lore,” which covered outdoor sports activities, and another column, which covered local youth sports. At that time he also produced “Vacation Paradise,” a supplement to the Forks Forum that offered visitors to the area information what was available in recreational activities. He was responsible for taking all the photos and writing all the articles, and he produced that publication for four years. In the 1980s, Archibald branched out into videography, filming local events such as the Forks Old Fashioned Fourth of July parade, demo derby, school concerts, fishing derbies and other community activities. It was about that time that the Forks Lions Club approached him to start videointerviewing local pioneers. Along with Shearer, they began the interviews in conjunction with the Forks Timber Museum. Those video-interviews became Archibald’s first book, “There was a Day: Stories of the Pioneers,” published in 1999. The book features about 30 interviews and many photos Archibald has taken over the years. “I was always interested in history,” Archibald said. “When I first started taking photos, a lot of the old landmarks were still here, like buildings at Sappho Camp, and a lot of old ruins were still around. Now look at Sappho. There is nothing left.” He added, “I’m glad I got that pioneer history before they left us.”

14 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

Local author Lonnie Archibald prepares to step aboard a Dilley & Soloman log truck. submitted photo Of the 30 people Archibald interviewed for that first book, only one is still living.

EXPANDING AUTHORSHIP

After 30 years at the phone company, he retired in 2000 and his listening and interviewing time expanded. His second book, “Here on the Home Front: WWII in Clallam County,” took him all around Clallam County to get stories of life during WWII. “Being born in 1942, I don’t have much memory of the war years,” Archibald said. “I heard lots of stories about the Quillayute Air Base and other stories about life in the 1940s from people in Forks, Port Angeles and Sequim. “My favorite story in the WWII book was about a couple of loggers racing cockroaches at a local cafe.” A short time after Archibald’s book on the experiences of Clallam County residents during WWII came out, Shearer influenced him again on a new project. “Ron was always telling me trucking stories, so the next book was ‘Old Trucks and Gear Jammers.’ I interviewed about 30 to 40 truckers for that first book and had such a good response that a sequel was in order,” Archilabd said. “Let’s go Truckin’” was just published this month. Archibald’s newest book includes truck drivers from Quinault, Neilton, Sequim, Clallam Bay and Neah Bay. In the two truckin’ books, 75 truckers were interviewed, which is no surprise because everyone knows truckers like to talk! What’s up next for Archibald? Maybe something about life in the 1950s and 1960s in Clallam County? As long as people have stories to tell, Archibald will keep listening and writing. His books will keep those stories alive, even when the storytellers are no longer here.

Author Lonnie Archibald works in his home office along the banks of the Sol Duc River. submitted photo Archibald’s books can be found at 7 Cedars Casino in Blyn; Sequim Museum and Arts Center and Forage Gifts and Northwest Treasures in Sequim; Jim’s Pharmacy, Odyssey Bookshop, and Port Book and News in Port Angeles; Joyce General Store in Joyce; Sunsets West Co-op in Clallam Bay; the Makah Museum in Neah Bay; and at Duffy’s Restaurant in Aberdeen. On the West End, they are available at Three Rivers Resort, Forks Outfitters, Chinook Pharmacy, Jerry’s Small Engines and Leppell’s Flowers and Gifts.

‘GLORY DAYS’

Showandah S. Terrill is an award-winning speaker and storyteller, as well as a lifelong writer and equestrian. She has lived on the Olympic Peninsula for 20 years, spending the last decade near Rialto Beach on the West End, where she moved to be closer to her work. She teaches at Forks High School and for the Federation of American Hospitals. “Glory Days” is her first book in the Peter Aarons series. The Peter Aarons series is the story of an immigrant son of a Hollywood movie mogul coming back from Vietnam in the 1960s and making a name for himself, not as the fashionable leading man he has the talent to become nor as the producer his father desires, but as a concert pianist who comes to care greatly about racism,

sexism and inequality in a time of great chaos. Although Showandah started writing this book nearly 20 years ago, its timeliness in the light of Black Lives Matter, the #MeToo movement and many other pressing concerns in the tumultuous times of today is uncanny. The following is excerpted from a “Glory Days” book review provided by Forks resident Shele Kinkead: “When Peter Aarons returns from a final, covert mission in Southeast Asia and reappears as a civilian at the home he shares with his grandmother in the hills above Hollywood, he just wants to re-enter life as the affluent son of a powerful Hollywood producer. “He is hampered in that by the recurring fever that got him an early discharge, recurring nightmares he can’t understand, and hidden memories of a traumatic childhood. “When his grandmother’s longtime housekeeper resigns, Peter seeks a replacement, clashing with his family and community over hiring Glory and her husband, a mixed marriage of black and Hispanic; social heresy in the 1960s. “If he can persuade his grandmother to reach beyond her current limitations, can the magic of an outcast stranger’s open heart permeate the atmosphere and create space for healing and a new definition of what it means to have a home and family?

Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

“With its hidden mysteries, nightmarish dreams and suggestions of mental instability, this novel is sure to grab the attention of anyone who loves a complex story that explores truth and perception. “As a nation, we are experiencing in 2018 many of the same dilemmas and unsettling times as in the 1960s. “We experience through these characters the changes that were wrought through the struggles of ordinary and extraordinary people in the 1960s and beyond. “This historical factor is dead-on and important to remember. The characters are distinctive, adding acerbic commentary to the social issues. “As to the hidden dilemmas and drama in each character, we want to know how they will fare as they face their own challenges. “‘Glory Days’ is an excellent read! Despite the dark places, there are moments of magic, grace and inescapable humor as the characters face their world.” Kinkead, a friend of Terrill’s, retired from education after 40 years as both a teacher and administrator, ranging from affluent suburbs to remote Native Alaskan villages. A lover of history with deep ties to marginalized peoples, Kinkead has championed their causes through advocacy, writings and professional interventions. Now living on the remote West End of Clallam County, she celebrates the natural beauty of her home. Many of Terrill’s characters are inspired by her own life experiences and those of family, friends and students. Two of her former students from the Yakima Valley now partner with her. One oversees her websites and one edits her work and manages the technicalities of publishing. “Without them I would still be writing in the dark-

Showandah Terrill enjoys a hike on an inspiring trail on the West End. submitted photo ness,” Terrill said. Along with the Peter Aaron series, Terrill works on her “Dragonhorse” series. The Dragonhorse series is a sci-fi/fantasy offering about the planet Equus and its sphere of influence in the Seventh Galactic Alliance and beyond. While the planet is ruled by a Great Council and a High Priestess for hundreds of years at a time, every 700 years a male rises to rule. He is raised as an ordinary citizen, completely unaware of who he is or what his destiny is to be. On his 100th birthday, he becomes the undisputed,

secular ruler of Equus and the Affination of Equi Worlds. Always traumatic for both ruler and citizenry, it also is a time of instability and often of war and conquest. Her upcoming sci-fi epic, “Dragonhorse Rising,” has a novel-length prequel titled “The Wind Warrior,” which will be released in weekly installments on Dragonhorserising.com starting this month. Her prologue novella, “The Day The City Shook,” is available in its entirety at DarkestGoth Magazine.  Christi Baron is the editor of the Forks Forum. Reach her at cbaron@forksforum.com.

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Sequim writing groups welcome writers of all ages, experiences Submitted by Ruth Marcus and Heidi Hansen The Peninsula is alive with writing energy. Ruth Marcus, former columnist for Sequim Gazette, has hosted writing groups in Sequim for the past nine years. She began hosting writing groups in her home in 2010. “It takes courage to share what you write, and respect to give meaningful critiques to other writers. It also takes a commitment to your craft to show up,” Marcus said. The writing groups that Marcus hosts are part of Writers on the Spit, a name birthed from a poem titled “Ghost Writers on the Spit,” written by Peninsula College professor Jim Fisher (now deceased). “Jim wrote the poem, and I suggested we call ourselves ‘Writers on the Spit.’ Next thing, I am creating a website, writersonthespit.com. “It still exists,” Marcus said, “but keeping it up-to-date is the challenge. I’d rather spend my time writing.” “Basically, every writer who has been in the prose and/ or poetry groups at my home is a part of Writers on the Spit. They can have their books posted on the website, along with writing events,” she added. The list of writers who have participated in monthly writing groups in Marcus’ home over the past nine years include Gene Bradbury, Gwuinifer Carradine, Howard

Chadwick, Judith Collins, Donna Downes, Judith Duncan, Jerry Fryrear, Heidi Hansen, Gina Hietpas, Mary Jill Klay, George Lindamood, Michael Medler, Teya Priest-Johnston, Terry Moore, Linda Myers, Carlyn Syvanen, Lou Templeton, Tim Wheeler and Fisher. Their work includes children’s stories, travel essays, mysteries, memoirs, flash fiction, poetry and short stories. Most recently, Marcus and three other Sequim haiku poets formed a monthly haiku group. It includes Gary Bullock, Judy Duncan, Jane Stewart. All are members of Pacific Northwest Region of the Haiku Society of America. The meetings rotate between members’ homes. All are published poets. Eight years ago, members of Writers on the Spit inspired the formation of the Fourth Friday Readings. Originally at Rainshadow Coffee in Sequim, the readings are now held at The Lodge at Sherwood Village, 660 Evergreen Way, Sequim. Writers share the microphone for five-minute readings. The event begins at 6:15 p.m. in the upstairs meeting room and runs until about 8 p.m. Heidi Hansen, Linda B. Myers and Judith Duncan present this venue for local writers. “Each month we schedule local writers to appear as our featured writer(s) and follow their reading with open

mic readings from the attendees,” Hansen said. “Our next meeting will be Jan. 25,” she added. It is encouraged that attendees rehearse, as the readings are timed. “I have been amazed at the talent here on the Peninsula and enjoy the event,” Hansen said. To encourage wannabe writers and to entice experienced writers to generate “new work,” Marcus started a free Third Monday Spontaneous Writing Group at the Sequim Library, 630 N. Sequim Ave. It is not a critique group, but a group to inspire and support writers of all levels to generate new work. It meets the third Monday of the month from 9:30 LOGOTYPE a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Bring a notebook and pen. It is now hosted by Hansen and Bonnie Dickmann. The group writes to prompts and then shares what they write. “This group is open to the public, all ages, all levels of writing,” Hansen said. “This is a great kick-starter to any writing. “The purpose of the event is to get your pen moving across the page. We give prompts for timed writings, then share our work. This is not a critique group. There is no cost and no reservations needed.” And, similar to the Spontaneous Writing group at the library, Judy Duncan hosts a Third Monday Spontaneous Writing Group for residents at Sherwood Assisted Living, 550 W. Hendrickson Road, Sequim. It provides a means for writers who can no longer get out and about to write and enjoy being with other writers. For more information about Writers on the Spit, visit writersonthespit.com.

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Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

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Mysteries born of travel, marriage — and Sequim Local novelists show readers the world Story and photos by Diane Urbani de la Paz Dear reader: What do you say we take off for Italy and the great city of Milan? Magnificence. It’s everywhere. Opera, pasta, art, architecture — take the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and its neighbor, a rather large church. The galleria, to begin, is “Milan’s glass-roofed, mural, splendiferous old shopping arcade, and opens directly onto the vast Piazza del Duomo, always filled with people who have come to goggle at the great multi-

18 Living on the PeninsuLa Winter 2018

spired, many-buttressed Milan Cathedral, the largest church in Italy … “The cathedral is especially notable for being coated with thousands of sculptures — yes, literally, over three thousand of them, stuck into every possible cranny in its façade and even on its roof.” This is novelist Aaron Elkins just getting warmed up. His latest, “Long Time Coming,” brings us to the northern Italian city for a wild ride into the art world there. The hero of the story, Valentino “Tino” Caruso, is an

Italian American and a curator at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. He’s called to Milan to help recover a pair of Pierre-Auguste Renoir sketches stolen during World War II. Sounds like a fabulously successful man, yes? Unfortunately Tino doesn’t think so as of yet. He’s been unlucky in love; twice divorced. At age 40, he feels stuck at his current post of associate curator. He lands in Italy. He’s ready for adventure. He finds himself embroiled in a web of envy, greed and deceit — that could lead to his undoing.

This being an Aaron Elkins mystery novel, we are transported into Milan’s milieu — and deep into Tino’s heart. “Long Time Coming” is not only a hot pursuit of dastardly art forgers and con artists. It’s also a story of a man who, against all odds, redeems himself. Bonus: He meets a fascinating woman along the way. “The art world is quite wild,” said Charlotte Elkins, Aaron’s partner in crime-writing and life. Her first degree was in studio art; that was followed by a master’s in library science and a position at the de Young, the fine arts museum in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. She has since become a formidable writer. With her husband, Charlotte penned a quartet of art mysteries: “A Dangerous Talent,” “A Cruise to Die For,” “The Trouble with Mirrors” and “The Art Whisperer.” All have the lissome Seattleite Alix London, an art restorer and daughter of a convicted art forger, as their heroine. Charlotte also provides inspiration for Aaron’s solo work. He is the author of another art-world series with Chris Norgren, a curator at the Seattle Art Museum, as its protagonist. These mysteries are “A Glancing Light,” “Old Scores” and “A Deceptive Clarity.” Yet another set of novels co-written by Aaron and Charlotte stars Lee Ofsted, professional golfer and nervy amateur detective. Spanning from 1989 to 2005, these are “A Wicked Slice,” “Rotten Lies,” “Nasty Breaks,” “On the Fringe” and “Where Have All the Birdies Gone?” The titles hint at the pair’s facility with wordplay. Between the covers, strange and wondrous places await: the Amazon rainforest; Oaxaca, Mexico; a pair of French cities; the British Isles; Iceland; Alaska. In “The Dark Place,” one of Aaron’s earliest novels, we explore the Olympic Peninsula. In 1982 Aaron published his first mystery, “Fellowship of Fear.”

Charlotte and Aaron Elkins of Sequim are married mystery novelists. It was to be the first installment in the 18-book series starring peripatetic anthropologist Gideon Oliver. Aaron has since won the Edgar Award for his 1988 Oliver tale “Old Bones,” the Nero Award for his 1994 novel “Old Scores” and an Agatha Award for his 1992 short story “Nice Gorilla.” Not bad for a man who changed careers in middle age. Born in Brooklyn, N.Y., Aaron has earned multiple degrees including a doctorate in education; he worked at all manner of jobs, from the personnel department for the county of Los Angeles to professor of anthropology. In their 46 years of marriage, he and Charlotte have lived all over the world. They lived in Sequim during the

A small portion of Charlotte and Aaron Elkins’ books are together in a sunny window at the Sequim Library.

1980s, then returned in 2002. Now Aaron, 83, and Charlotte, 70, have put down roots here. He still travels widely, despite the lengthy flights. Steeped in a location is the only way to fill his novels with atmosphere and rich detail, from the accents in people’s speech to the grandiosity of a European cathedral. Earlier this year Aaron flew to Antwerp, Belgium, to gather evidence for his next mystery saga. He stayed nine days, all senses turned up high. Then, reality: He had to return home. And write. It’s rough, even after all these years. Aaron likens completing a manuscript to struggling up a craggy mountain. Not that he’s interested in retiring from the writing game. “It is work. As work goes, it’s not bad,” he quipped. “Writing is what I know how to do,” and fortunately, he knows how to travel: first class or business class. Charlotte, for her part, isn’t so much on the long trips. She’s an active community member, a sea kayaking and duplicate bridge enthusiast. While taking a break from writing novels, she continues to act as her husband’s editor and character adviser. When Aaron writes about women, Charlotte can comment, naturally, on what rings true. “It’s really nice to have two perspectives,” she said. “No one can write a book on their own.” When asked about Aaron’s latest works — “Long Time Coming” and his forthcoming novel set in Belgium — Charlotte marvels. “I was very impressed … it amazes me when he keeps coming up with new characters, new ideas.” Aaron finishes a book in a little over a year: 14 to 15 months is standard. That would put his Belgian manuscript in his publisher’s hands around late 2019. Will he tantalize us with some hints on the story line? He allows that Peter Paul Rubens, the Flemish Baroque artist, might be involved. Yet other than that, Aaron’s lips are sealed. Talking overmuch about a forthcoming book can drain it of vitality, he believes. After all, this is a mystery we’re talking — or not talking — about. 

Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

THE DAYTRIPPER

Dungeness in winter: Blustery hike is worth the effort

A primitive driftwood sign welcomes Dungeness Spit hikers to New Dungeness Lighthouse with the simple word ‘serenity.’ Another fork of the sign ushers visitors back to ‘reality’ by reminding them of the 5-mile journey back to the parking area. Story and photos by Brenda Hanrahan On a sunny day in late November, the itch to get outside to stretch our legs was strong. Several days of gloomy, rainy weather and being stuck indoors had taken its toll. Wanting to take advantage of clear and sunny skies my husband, Chris, and I filled up our water bottles, packed a snack, piled on layers of warm clothing, grabbed my camera and headed to Dungeness Recreation Area in Sequim. The 216-acre county park is renowned for being the portal to Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge and Dungeness Spit and is one of my favorite places to take photographs throughout the year. Access to a well-maintained lighthouse and plentiful bird-watching opportunities makes the relatively easy stroll on Dungeness Spit a gem for photographers of all ages. My husband humors my addiction of photographing New Dungeness Lighthouse, located near the end of the

20 Living on the PeninsuLa Winter 2018

spit, in autumn and winter thanks to the promise of early dinners at Old Mill Cafe in Carlsborg following our cool and often really windy walks. Dungeness Recreation Area features an upland forest, wetlands, sandy bluffs, campsites and spectacular vistas of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Vancouver Island and Mount Baker. During the Olympic Peninsula’s warmer months, this is a popular place to camp, picnic and gather with family and friends for a day of exploring. Adjacent to the county park is Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge, which is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and covers 631 acres. Recognizing the importance of the fertile habitats, President Woodrow Wilson established Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge on Jan. 20, 1915, as a refuge, preserve and breeding ground for native birds. Tranquil Dungeness Bay, fertile tide flats and beaches consisting of sand and surf-tumbled stones provide a variety of habitats for an estimated 244 bird species, 18 types of land mammals and 11 marine mammal species.

Visitors will find numerous signs indicating sections of the refuge are closed to the public to protect the delicate ecosystem of the area. At 5.5 miles long, Dungeness Spit is one of the world’s longest natural sand spits, growing at a rate of about 13 feet per year. The lighthouse is located a half a mile from the tip of the spit (the last half mile is closed to the public because of its sensitive wildlife habitat). Walking on the spit during winter can be an adventurous trek. Short daylight hours, high tides and quick-changing weather conditions require a little extra planning. You should only attempt the stroll to the lighthouse at low tide because high tides require scrambling over driftwood, which can add several hours to your trip. The spit is rarely breached by storms — but it can happen — and when it does, the lighthouse becomes an island until the next low tide. Always check a tide chart and the weather report before setting out for a stroll. The trek from the parking area to New Dungeness Lighthouse is a somewhat deceptive 11 miles out and back.

Allow about 5 hours for the round-trip trek, which includes time to pause and enjoy the beauty of the area and to explore the lighthouse. Each time we have strolled the spit, we have met a frazzled group of people who “didn’t think it looked that far to reach the end of the spit” from the overlook. During the walk you are fully exposed to the elements, and there is no shelter until you reach the lighthouse. Often setting out without water, a snack, sunscreen or proper shoes, these poor hikers are not used to walking in sand and end up rather ragged looking on their return trip. This excursion was no exception; just after following the easy half-mile trail from the parking lot to the overlook on a bluff above the spit and then descending to the beach, we met a couple dressed in designer jeans, light sweatshirts and slip-on sneakers without socks who looked tired, windblown and more than ready for a warm cup of coffee. Not prepared for the stroll, the couple turned back about two miles in due to being cold, thirsty and unprepared for walking in sandy conditions. These two disheveled souls were the only hikers we would meet on this cool November stroll, which meant we were lucky enough to have the spit to ourselves. Passing by a man-made driftwood fort, we spotted a harbor seal fishing for breakfast in the waters just offshore. A large container ship kept us company for a while, and gulls periodically flew overhead checking to see what we were up to. As we hit the 2-mile mark, fog began to slowly make its way across the Juan de Fuca. Adding a spooky feel to the stroll, we marched on hoping the fog would move out as quickly as it had moved in.

New Dungeness Lighthouse is shrouded in fog on a cool November afternoon. I stopped several times to check the wrack line in hopes of finding a beach glass treasure and ended up picking up several pieces of trash including a few disposable water bottles, several six-pack plastic toppers and a “congratulations, it’s a boy” helium balloon that although faded from the sun was in remarkably good condition for having traveled in the surf to the beach. Not wanting wildlife to become entangled in humancreated trash or a pristine beach to be littered with man-made waste, I carry a bag or bucket to place items in during our beach strolls.

At the 3-mile mark we carefully climbed on a massive driftwood log in hopes of spotting marine mammals and shorebirds with binoculars. We were quickly rewarded with views of a dunlin and sanderlings dining along the water’s edge. A bald eagle soared above our heads and after a long glide landed in a large tree on the bluff. Continuing to the lighthouse, the fog was pretty thick. Disappointed, but not dismayed, we strolled on in hopes the fog would soon clear. The first view of the lighthouse was obscured by fog but the bright white tower of the lighthouse never disappoints.

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MORE INFORMATION There is a $3 Dungeness Wildlife Refuge permit fee for a party of four adults (16 and older) payable at the kiosk at the trailhead in the parking lot. Have exact change when paying the fee. Children younger than 16 enter for free. A refuge Annual Pass, Federal Recreational Lands Pass, Senior or Golden Age Pass, Access or Golden Access Pass, Military Pass, Volunteer Pass and a Federal Duck Stamp also admit family or group (up to 4 adults). NOTE: Some portions of the refuge are closed seasonally or permanently to protect sensitive species. To ensure that wildlife continues to have a peaceful place to rest and feed, certain recreational activities, such as swimming, jogging and other beach activities, are allowed only in selected areas during certain times of the year. Pets, bicycles, kite-flying, frisbees, ball-playing, camping, beachcombing and fires are not permitted in the refuge. There are no fees at the lighthouse, but donations to support the maintenance and restoration of the lighthouse are appreciated. To reach Dungeness Spit from U.S. Highway 101, turn north on Kitchen-Dick Road (4.7 miles west of the Sequim Avenue exit in Sequim or 12 miles east from downtown Port Angeles). Continue 3.3 miles on Kitchen-Dick Road; the road takes a 90-degree turn, becoming Lotzgesell Road. Continue for 1/4 mile and then make a left onto Voice of America Road. This road is signed for the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge and Dungeness Recreation Area. Go through the recreation area to the refuge parking lot. The Dungeness Spit trailhead is about 1 mile down this road. The lighthouse also is accessible by water. Information about Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge: fws.gov/refuge/ dungeness. More about Dungeness Lighthouse: newdungenesslighthouse.com. More about Dungeness Recreation Area: clallam.net/parks/dungeness.html.

After using the restrooms and depositing trash collected from the beach in provided receptacles, we sat down at a picnic table on a lush patch of grass to enjoy a light snack of vanilla-almond granola and bananas. The cool mist of the fog surrounded us with a peaceful silence that was only broken by the call of birds. There is a drinking fountain at the lighthouse if you need to refuel or refill your water bottle for your return trip. To warm up we entered the lighthouse to look at historical photographs and displays and spoke to the volunteer lighthouse keeper on duty. Free guided tours of the lighthouse’s museum and tower are offered daily between 9 a.m. to three hours before sunset. During your visit to the lighthouse’s museum, you will learn that New Dungeness Light Station was the first lighthouse completed on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It has operated continuously since its lard oil lamp was lit for the first time Dec. 14, 1857. Wonderful photos will guide you through the lighthouse’s history, showing you how the structure and surrounding land has changed during the last 161 years. In 1993, the lighthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places. The museum also features displays about the Native Americans who lived in the area, as well as information about the

New Dungeness Light Station Association. The lighthouse provides the rare opportunity to allow people to be a “lighthouse keeper” for a week. Talk to a volunteer or visit newdungenesslighthouse.com for more information about this opportunity. Climbing the 74 steps up the tower to the lantern, we were rewarded with clear panoramic views of Dungeness Spit and the refuge, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Canada. During the brief time we visited with the lighthouse keeper and looked at displays the fog had cleared. Snapping a few photos and bidding farewell to the keeper, we started the 5-mile trek back to our car. The stroll returning to the parking lot always seems to go a little faster. After a few stops to view wildlife, we were soon climbing up the bluff to the parking lot. After a quick drive to Carlsborg, we claimed a booth in the cozy and warm Old Mill Cafe (721 Carlsborg Road) and Chris studied the menu to see what treat he had earned for his sacrifice of once again strolling in the wind along Dungeness Spit. I scrolled through my photos and started planning our next trip to the spit. Eyeing me over his menu, Chris winked and said, “I think I will order a steak since you are paying.”  Brenda Hanrahan is a special sections editor at Peninsula Daily News. Reach her bhanrahan@peninsuladailynews.com.

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Written in the stars Story and photos by Laura Foster So by now in this edition of Living on the Peninsula, you’ve read about several writers who have been published or who are a few steps ahead from just starting on their writing journey. Perhaps these folks have inspired you to take up the pen (or fire up the computer) and get your own story out of your head and onto some pages. Any maybe that’s where Peninsula College’s Tidepools magazine also steps in. Touted as an art and literary magazine, Tidepools encourages Olympic Peninsula residents to submit their work, whether its poetry, art, photography, music or prose. “It’s the college magazine, but it’s more a community event,” said John Anderson, an educator and advisor at Peninsula College. Anderson is taking the reins from educator Michael Mills to facilitate the 55th edition of Tidepools while he’s on sabbatical. “I’m still learning,” Anderson chortled as he and his two students described the

beginning stages of the Tidepools process during their once-a-week, one-hour-long class on campus. Aiding Anderson with the first stage of production are sophomores Harley Davidson and Maddie Hunt. Davidson is working toward her associate of arts and science degree, and Hunt is a communications major who eventually wants to become a photojournalist for National Geographic. Together with Anderson, they’re reaching out to the community for submissions for Tidepools. Right now, this trio’s goal is to maintain the online submission form, collect submissions and work on creative ways to present Tidepools to the community. “It’s about making a connection,” Anderson said. With that in mind, Davidson designed the constellation whale that appears on posters encouraging folks to enter their submissions. She said she was inspired by the theme

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In the spring, the class will put all that work together once winners have been chosen by a group of blind judges, and a final reading will take place at the college. Several community readings also will take place, with dates to be announced. Funding for Tidepools comes from Peninsula College’s Associated Student Council, donations from the community, advertising in the school’s newspaper, The Buccaneer, and entry fees. The 2019 issue is set to be released in mid-June. For Peninsula College students interested in be a part of Tidepools “to gain hands on publishing and editing experience and college credit by producing a college literary magazine,” they can register for the English classes ‘Literary Magazine Production I-VI’ (ENGL 180182, 280-282) or Media 181-183.

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“these are the stories we all see.” In the stars, Anderson said, we make stories, and those stories are passed down through generations. But what this Tidepools class is hoping entrants will do is use the constellations as a prompt for their work, creating their own stories from the skies. While there is no definitive theme for this upcoming edition — it’s open to all subjects — Anderson says they hope to continue with a bit of the constellation thread. This quarter’s class is focusing on the launch for submissions, getting judges and keeping track of entries. “Team Tidepools has visited a number of classes, trying to drum up more students for next quarter. Fingers crossed,” Anderson said. The winter quarter’s class, Anderson said, will focus on nailing down a print concept (he, Davidson and Hunt have a few ideas already they hope continue on to the next class, of which Hunt will be a part of), how the magazine will be laid out and the overall design.

Tidepools class takes first steps for publication

Harley Davidson, John Anderson and Maddie Hunt work on the online submission form for Tidepools magazine. For further details on submission rules and to submit your work online, visit tidepoolsmagazine.com. 

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• The entry deadline is Friday, Jan. 11. • Only Clallam and Jefferson county residents are eligible to submit creative work. • Adult entries to the contest are $6.50 each, and youth entries are $4 each. • Peninsula College students can enter for free. • Anyone can submit work to the magazine for free by submitting under “non-contest,” which means they’re eligible for publication but not for prize money. • Categories: Youth Writing ages 0-9, Youth Writing ages 10-13, Youth Writing ages 14-17, Youth Art ages 0-9, Youth Art ages 10-13, Youth Art ages 14-17, PC Student Photography, PC Student Art and Digital Art, PC Student Writing, Adult Poetry, Adult Prose, Adult Art, Music Contest, Non-Contest Art and Photography, Non-Contest Writing and Non-Contest Music. • Cash prizes include: $100 is the first place prize in each adult and Peninsula College category in addition to publication. Winners also receive one free copy of the magazine. Second and third place adult winners are guaranteed publication and get a free copy of the magazine. There are four adult and three PC categories for a $700 total. For the first place winner in each youth category, $25 and a free copy of the magazine will be awarded. There are six separate categories for a $150 total. • Winners will be announced by Friday, March 15. • If you want to submit entries by mail, send an entry form (found at tidepools.pencol.edu/submission) to: Tidepools Magazine, Peninsula College 1502 E. Lauridsen Blvd., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • For mail or hand delivery, make checks or money orders payable to Peninsula College. Do not make checks out to Tidepools. Do not mail cash.

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PINCH OF PENINSULA

For the love of pies & stories By Brenda Hanrahan Living on the Peninsula recently caught up to master pie maker and Port Angeles resident Kate McDermott for a little chat about her journey to becoming a cookbook author. Her first book, “Art of the Pie: A Practical Guide to Homemade Crusts, Fillings, and Life,” was nominated for the prestigious James Beard Award and is now in its fifth printing. Since its release in October, McDermott’s second book, “Home Cooking With Kate McDermott,” has been receiving rave reviews from fans and critics alike. In between teaching her now-famous Pie Camp Workshops in a cozy cottage in Port Angeles, traveling the nation to teach classes and promote her books and spending time with family and friends during the holidays, McDermott is working on a third book — a stand alone pie book with new recipes, techniques and personal stories. This soon-to-be-masterpiece will hit bookstore shelves in October 2020. Question (Q): What was the inspiration behind your first book, “Art of the Pie: A Practical Guide to Homemade Crusts, Fillings, and Life”? McDermott (M): “From the time I was a little girl, I loved to bake. That love has grown over the years as I experimented with recipes and refined my skills. “Art of the Pie,” which took about two years to complete, is a culmination of recipes I had been working on for decades. I had been receiving inquires from publishing houses about writing a pie book since 2008, but I didn’t feel ready at that time. In 2014, upon learning I was going to be teaching a class in New York City, I received an email from The Countryman Press asking if I might come to talk with them. After seeing their address, 500 Fifth Ave., New York, N.Y., I quickly said ‘Yes, I think I can.’ That conversation resulted in “Art of the Pie,” which was published in 2016. As soon as I was done writing the book I was asked to do another book, and am now

working on a third book. All of this was and continues to be so unexpected. I had no idea what was involved in writing a cookbook. I write in an odd genre, as I mix a lot of personal stories into my books along with recipes, but it does seem to be working.” Q: How would you describe your writing process? M: “I attended a very small high school with just 24 students in my graduating class. In English classes, I continually received the same note on my papers from my teacher that said ‘needs more development,’ and as a result I felt that I could not write. When I was asked to write a book — an entire book — the voice of the teenage Kate was shaking her head and saying, ‘No, you aren’t a writer,’ but I was encouraged by my editor. What I learned in writing my first book was how to ‘find your voice.’ You just have to get out of your own way and write like you talk. I am continually surprised that people like the recipes, but what has really been encouraging to me is that they like my stories and that my voice has meant so much to them. The logistics of writing a cookbook and working with a New York publisher can be daunting, but I am very lucky because I truly work with a dream team. Working with the people at The Countryman Press has been an amazing experience, and I am incredibly lucky to partner with photographer Andrew Scrivani on all three books.” Q: What inspired your second book, “Home Cooking With Kate McDermott?” M: “I didn’t really know if I had anything left to say after “Art of the Pie.” I had a number of conversations with my literary agent about what the topic of a second book could be. After going back and forth between my agent, my editor and the publisher, my agent told me that the publisher said, ‘Just tell Kate to write, and we will take anything she writes.’ This was an enormous compliment for the teenage Kate who didn’t think she

26 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

Kate McDermott is the author of ‘Art of the Pie.’ submitted photo could even string two sentences together. To be asked to write a third book, well, that is just overwhelming to me. ‘Home Cooking With Kate McDermott’ features recipes that I have been making for family and friends for years. It also contains personal stories from right here on the Peninsula. I received a very lovely review by Wendell Brock that was so kind. In the review he said he thought I would be remembered more for the stories I tell in my books. His words meant so much to me as a writer and as a person.” In his review of “Home Cooking With Kate McDermott,” Brock wrote in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: “As much as I admire McDermott’s recipes for Coddled Eggs with Herbs and her Hearty Cheddar and Potato Soup, it’s her personal essays that I believe will stand the test of time. McDermott may be a wonderworker at pastry and home cooking, yet her philosophy of love, kindness and letting go, so beautifully and effortlessly expressed here, may be her finest achievement. ‘Home Cooking with Kate McDermott’ is one of the best American cookbooks — of this year or any year.” Q: What do you hope readers take away

from reading and using your cookbooks? M: “That baking and cooking are easy and do not require fancy equipment or exotic ingredients. And that we need to continue to cook, bake and gather around the table with friends and family. Love is the most important ingredient when you cook and bake. When you share something you make with others you are showing and sharing love.” Q: How have the books impacted your already popular pie workshops? M: “I am very fortunate that I have taught over 3,000 people to make pie. Around Thanksgiving I get this blast of emails from people sharing stories that they never thought they could make a pie and now they are the go-to pie maker in their family. People share photos of themselves with their finished pies and beauty shots of the pies they have made. It is touching to see that so many people have been inspired to make something from my workshops and books.” McDermott’s books are available at bookstores across the Olympic Peninsula. Visit artofthepie.com for more information about McDermott, including details on her books, blog, Pie Camps and more. 

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Winter Vegetable Shepherd’s Pie

Adapted from the book, “Home Cooking with Kate McDermott” Serves 6 to 8 While “wuzband” No. 2 and I built our post-and-beam dream home, the little one-room cabin in which we lived with two young children seemed straight out of a pioneering storybook. On one winter weekend, when the snow was nearly as deep as my 2-year-old son, Duncan, was tall, our across-the-fence neighbors invited us over for a snowy supper potluck. While Duncan and his dad shoveled snow to make a path to their house, I peeled and chopped vegetables for this savory pie. When it was time for supper, we bundled up in boots, jackets, hats and mittens and carried a savory pie still warm from the oven to their door. The winter vegetables in this pie are flexible, so use others that you might have on hand, like turnip or rutabaga. Ingredients: 4 tablespoons butter, plus additional 1⁄3 cup for the potatoes 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, cut into ½-inch chunks 1 teaspoon parsley 1 teaspoon thyme ½ teaspoon marjoram 1 bay leaf 1¾ teaspoons salt ½ cup apple or pear cider 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour (gluten-free flour can be substituted if desired) 2 cups stock (mushroom, chicken or vegetable) ½ pound mushrooms, cut in half ½ pound boiling onions, brown skins removed, cut into halves, or 1 medium onion cut into 1- and ½-inch pieces 4 cloves garlic, chopped 4 medium carrots, peeled, cut in half, and cut into 2-inch half-moon pieces 2 large or 4 medium parsnips, peeled, cut in half and cut into 2- to 3-inch half-moon pieces Freshly ground black pepper 2¼pounds potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese (reserve 1⁄3 cup to sprinkle over the top) ½ teaspoon thyme Directions: Melt 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, parsley, thyme, marjoram, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon salt, and cook until the onions are brown but not burned. Stir occasionally. Add the cider and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add flour and stock. Stir with a spoon to break up any lumps. Bring to a boil, turn down heat, and simmer for about 5 minutes while stirring occasionally. Set the sauce aside. Melt 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and ¼ teaspoon salt, turn the heat to high, and cook for 3 minutes

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while stirring often. Remove from heat, turn the mushrooms into a bowl, and set aside. Melt another 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add boiling onions, garlic, carrots, and parsnips, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the mushrooms and half the sauce, cover pan, lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the remaining sauce. Raise the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place potatoes in a saucepan and cover with about 2 inches of water. Add 1 teaspoon salt, and boil for about 15 minutes until tender. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes back into the pot, with 1⁄3 cup butter, 2⁄3 cup cheese, and thyme, and mash until smooth. A few lumps are okay. Add salt and pepper to your taste. Remove the bay leaf from the filling and turn into an 8-by-12-inch baking pan. Evenly spread the potato mixture over the filling. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375°F and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Note: If you have any leftover Brussels sprouts from Thanksgiving dinner, pop them into the filling, too.

THE LIVING END

The wonder of words By Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith “Seek the lofty by reading, hearing and seeing great work at some moment every day.” — Thornton Wilder The Olympic Peninsula provides a diverse haven for the creative soul. One of its hallmarks is the beauty of the natural world of mountains, forest and sea. Another is the richness of the artistic community from writers to artists to musicians. Each one seeking expression from their unique perspective amid this constantly changing landscape of nature and soul. At the heart of this special place lies an awareness of the power of story and the wonder of words: From the rich traditional lore of the First Peoples to the emerging poetry in rap of the youth in the Boiler Room. Gathering in a variety of venues from the Writer’s Workshoppe in Port Townsend to the Forest Story Telling Festival in Port Angeles to Centrum’s annual Writers’ Conference that draws people internationally to the Peninsula. And, of course, there are all the coffee shops that abound as gathering places for creatives. “Writing is an exploration. You start from nothing and learn as you go.” — E. L. Doctorow Walking a forest path, one sees nature writ large. Wandering amid the old growth trees, one must find the way through shadowed light. Like the trees, we are rooted deep in physicality while reaching for the limitless sky. Our branches stretch out to touch the world and allow creatures to nest close to our beingness. Finally, we can become like fallen

nursery logs that offer protection and nourishment for those souls yet to come. This embodies how writers become channels of expressed inspiration. Sitting quietly on an old log that has washed up on a sandy or rocky shore can give one a deep sense of presence and connection to something greater. The ebb and flow of tides remind us to receive, embrace and release. This flow of the sea invites us to become vessels for new possibilities and enriched experiences. We can then gather up new treasures that wash up upon our shores. This reflects the creative energy of the writer’s life and the source of their writings. “The beauty of reading is that it lets you travel in a way you could never know.” — Alek Wek Many of those who live in this area are passionate readers. They read by the light of the fire as the winter storms blow mightily. They read on the shores of the Peninsula to the tender sounds of the waves rising and receding. They read alone in the privacy of home with a furry companion nestled beside them. They gather together in the rich discussions of book clubs. They read. They share. They live. Many years ago, I read a fascinating scene. The lead character was curled up reading in her favorite chair when her mother enters the room. The mother reflects that she has no idea where her daughter really is in that moment. The truth of that statement reminds us of the power of story to transport us to places and times far beyond ourselves. We can journey to foreign countries and ancient times without moving our bodies. We can explore the cosmos and learn how galaxies are made without a telescope. We can allow our perceptions to expand to include new viewpoints as

we hear the voices of others pour forth from the pages. “A truly good book teaches me better than to read it. I must soon lay it down, and commence living on its hint. What I began by reading, I must finish by acting.” — Henry David Thoreau There’s a wonderful true story about the power of books and the worlds they open to those who read. In the early 1980s, Goody Cable owned a bookstore in Portland, Ore., that was a gathering place for lovers of words. She became inspired to create a hotel dedicated to her love of story and books. After 30 attempts, financing was obtained and the Sylvia Beach Hotel opened in February of 1987 in Newport, Ore. Named after the founder of Paris’ Shakespeare and Company, it opened on its namesake’s 100th birthday. Each room bears the name of a famous writer and welcomes those who continue the legacy of both reading and writing. The day it opened, many gathered amid rain and a triple rainbow. When all the festivities were complete,

Goody retired to the third floor library overlooking the ocean, and to the sound of rain pounding on the roof, she drank a cup of coffee. Suddenly she realized she was living the exact moment seen in her original vision born in the creative milieu of the bookshop. Surrounded by books, she was home. To this day, the Sylvia Beach Hotel welcomes those who love the wonder of the written word. “The unread story is not a story; it is little black marks on wood pulp. The reader, reading it, makes it live: a live thing, a story.” — Ursula K. Le Guin Let the next book call to your soul whether you are a writer, a reader or both. Then let it open your eyes to new realms and let it invite you to encounter the world anew. Changing your world; and then through you, changing the world for all of us. Living stories ever evolving.  Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages. Contact her at revpam@unitypt.org.

Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

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360-797-4505

Northwest Living

Spring Cleaning?

ADJUSTABLE BEDS

Take old cleaners, pesticides, solvents, oil-based paint or other hazardous household chemicals to the Moderate Risk Waste Facility located at the Port Angeles Regional Transfer Station. Open Wednesdays & Saturdays, 11am-4pm.

AT IT’S BEST FOR A WHOLE LOT LESS!

Learn to Clean Green!

QUEEN SIZE adjustable bed & 10” hybrid queen mattress

1199

8C2239650

SALE

Contact Clallam County Environmental Health to learn how to create your own non non-toxic toxic cleaning products using alternatives that are safer for you, your family, and the environment.

FINANCING AVAILABLE

360-681-7804 Fine Furniture at Affordable Prices Hours: Mon.-Sat. 9:30-5:30, Sun. 11-4 609 W Washington St, Sequim • Next to JCPenney 30 Living on the Peninsula Winter 2018

360 360--417 417--2258 www.clallam.net

Congratulations to Fort Worden on the new 48 kW solar array.

Spin Your Meter Backwards TUESDAY JANUARY 29TH 6:00 PM

JOIN

PORT TOWNSEND VINEYARDS TO LEARN HOW SOLAR WORKS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST AND THAT YOU CAN EARN A 30% FEDERAL TAX CREDIT FOR INVESTING IN SOLAR. US AT

2640 W SIMS WAY, PORT TOWNSEND

Power Trip Energy Corp Solar Energy Specialists since 2002 GENERAL & ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

360.643.3080 www.powertripenergy.com

San J Juan Villa

A Community Designed Uniquely for Memory Care

Memory Care Community

Ÿ Secure and homelike environment

Ÿ Daily group activities

Ÿ Unique life stations designed for Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ

Located in Port Townsend, WA Call 360-344-3114 Visit CaringPlaces.com

8C2257665

Drop in for a tour and see if this Caring Place feels like home.

residents with memory loss Two beautiful outdoor areas Raised ﬂower beds for gardening Spa room with jetted spa tub Individualized service plans Licensed nurses Dementia-trained caregivers Respite services available

A Caring Places Management Community Winter 2018 Living on the Peninsula

Leadership is an art... LMN Architects | Stephanie Bower, Architectural Illustration

PORT ANGELES WATERFRONT CENTER A home for arts and events that brings people together and strengthens our community

PERFORMING ARTS CENTER • CONFERENCE AND EVENT FACILITY • FINE ART GALLERY

LEADERSHIP GIFTS & NAMING OPPORTUNITIES BY APPOINTMENT Chris Fidler, Executive Director E: chris@pawaterfrontcenter.org P: 360-477-4679