WASHINGTON COAST MAGAZINE • WINTER 2020
Coastal haunts Rusty vessels above and below waterline display eerie beauty
ALL TIED UP IN KNOTS WINTER 2020 $3.99 A supplement to The Daily World
ANTIQUING THE COAST
CRANBERRY CONCOCTIONS
Cackling geese and a lone greater white-fronted goose graze on young grasses and weeds around the recently regraded sewage lagoons in Hoquiam.
Why birds (and, consequently, birders) flock to wastewater treatment facilities is hardly self-explanatory, but it does make perfect sense. If released directly into surface waters, the rich organic materials in sewage would engender a population explosion of bacteria — which, in their mad rush to digest it all, would suck all the oxygen out of the surrounding water. Obviously, that’s not good news for fish or anything else that breathes underwater. The usual models followed by our treatment plants encourage those same bacteria to do their job in a controlled environment. These processes have the happy side effect of producing tempting habitat and an abundant source of food for many birds. The process starts in a basin where heavy aeration allows the oxygen-loving bacteria to hasten their digestion of the waste, tantalizingly known as “mixed liquor” at this stage. With microbial help, solids and water are separated, producing sludge and clear water. While these tanks often have gulls swimming happily around them, they are not the main bird attractants. After that crucial step, the clear, treated water is shunted
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off to one or more facultative ponds, where the real magic happens. In these ponds, the remaining organic matter and other potential pollutants are further decomposed by a balanced population of more bacteria and algae. The algae, through photosynthesis, help replenish the oxygen consumed by the bacteria, creating a more hospitable environment for other animals and plants. It is those tiny organisms that form the basis of the food chain the birds are most interested in. Who likes to eat bacteria and algae? Worms and crustaceans and insects, oh my! The table is set for a wide variety of birds, from ducks to sandpipers and swallows. The plants growing around the nutrient-rich edges of some of these ponds also bring in a contingent of seed-eating birds, including sparrows and finches. From the air, these facultative ponds look just like any other pond, except for the oddly squared edges. Flyover flocks of ducks, geese and gulls drop in to rest, bathe and feed on the quiet waters. Ponds with cattail-lined edges, like Hoquiam’s, attract marsh wrens, red-winged blackbirds and common yellowthroats. Rocky, sparsely vegetated shores
like those at the Ocean Shores treatment plant appeal to migrant tundra birds like the comical, tail-bobbing American pipits, Lapland longspurs and various sandpipers. Ponds in coastal communities have some added advantages for the birds. First, fresh water is at a premium in saltwater environments. Very few birds can drink salt water, and bathing in it is all but futile. Tip for backyard wildlife enthusiasts: A feeder will attract only those creatures that will eat whatever is put out for them. Water, though, every species will come for. Another coast-specific attractant is a stable shoreline. At low tide, mudflats and long stretches of wet sand abound, providing perfect feeding grounds for masses of shorebirds. When the incoming tide covers all the best habitat, however, some of those birds are still too hungry to tuck their heads under their wings and wait for the waters to recede. Any birder knows that high tide is the best time to visit an STP, as seasonal shorebirds will trickle in to take advantage of the food-rich banks. The final piece of the puzzle is where we choose to build our STPs. Thanks to the previously mentioned strictly human “ew!” reflex, nobody wants to live next door to one. STPs tend to be on the edge of town, bordering on wild
spaces, and they serve as an extension of those habitats. Ocean Shores tucked its facility between the open expanse of Grays Harbor and the fantastically birdy Oyhut Game Range, and it draws birds from both. Hoquiam’s is similarly nestled between the Harbor’s open salt water and the Grays Harbor National Wildlife Refuge, which is renowned among birds and birders alike. In addition to unanimous high marks given by birds and birders, the hard-working operators of the Hoquiam STP this year garnered an outstanding performance award from the Washington Department of Ecology. They’re doing their part, so let’s all do ours and keep on flushing!
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jeff Bryant has been an increasingly obsessive birder since childhood. For the past 30 years, what little money he’s been able to set aside has been spent traveling in search of ever more of the world’s 10,000 species. He’s only a quarter of the way there.
Several species of ducks enjoy a quiet morning at one of the facultative ponds at Hoquiam’s Wastewater Treatment Facility. WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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ANTIQUING THE COAST:
A guide for the discerning collector
S TO RY BY CALLIE WHITE
Randy Denney sells what appears to be everything at his Old School Thrift Shop, which is in a historic one-room schoolhouse near Hoquiam.
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE
Washington’s beaches are awash in detritus from the sea — driftwood, agates, sea glass and even, if you’re lucky, glass floats. Stuff just seems to end up on the sand after a long journey down rivers and across ocean currents. Those same currents have a lot to do with how the Washington Coast ended up being a great destination for those who like to go antiquing, garage saling, estate saling and junking.
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PATRICIA JOLLIMORE PHOTOS
Past and Present Mercantile is an antique mall with a wide variety of offerings in downtown Aberdeen.
“You cannot underestimate the wealth that was in this community in the early part of the 20th century,” says Patrick Farwell, who runs an estate sale business on Grays Harbor and is a longtime aficionado of all things old and interesting. From the early 1900s through the 1960s, Aberdeen and Hoquiam had many millionaires as a result of its thriving timber industry. Many of them traveled extensively, Farwell said, collecting furniture and objets d’art from Europe, Asia and Africa. Downtown shops were copying and selling the fashions they saw in big cities like New York, London and Paris. Sea captains often exported tons of timber, but didn’t return with many imports, Farwell said. But they did bring home lots of items from their journeys to the Far East and Europe just for their own enjoyment. “And these were pretty sophisticated people,” he said. “The things you see from the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s, those were things when the stuff was really good quality.” We are a couple of generations removed from Grays
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Harbor’s heyday. As the wealthy became less so — or moved away, or watched their kids move away — all the things they amassed had to (and have to) go somewhere. And with family members scattered, lots of interesting items have to go up for sale. Moreover, Grays Harbor and Pacific counties are home to several Native American tribes. Some fine pieces of Native art are in private hands, and they go on the market here and there, Farwell said. “There is good stuff up for sale more often here than in any other community,” he said. It’s mostly a matter of knowing where to look. For the casual antiques shopper, there are a variety of fun stores along the Coast with miscellaneous old stuff to browse through. Antique malls, of which there are several, often carry a mix of finds from around the region. For the serious collector, there are plenty of places worth digging into. Here is a curated list of recommended stores:
DEEP CUTS Ocean Shores Renewed Antiques Show Feb 14-16, 2020 Ocean Shores Convention Center Over 60 vendors sell antiques and vintage finds at this annual event.
30 Miles of Junque Sept. 18-20, 2020 From Westport to Tokeland This annual event means you can browse for 30 miles, going from church sale to sidewalk sale to garage sale. You get a real slice of South Beach life while finding anything and everything.
Estate sales Items to be found at estate sales on the Coast often rival anything in the Puget
Sound area, according to Patrick Farwell, who runs an estate sale business on Grays Harbor. Check local newspapers for upcoming events.
The
PLACE to Be!
Clevenger’s Auctions 505 Eighth St., Hoquiam Friday nights are where it’s at for Clevenger’s. You never know what you’re going to see, and the prices are often incredible, with quality pieces going for pennies on the dollar. Of course, it’s an auction, so the prices and the products are constantly changing.
OfferUp This mobile app finds items for sale near your GPS location. You can browse what people are selling anywhere you happen to be.
January 18 • NOON-9PM Grays Harbor Fair & Event Center Must be 21 & Older to attend. Must Show ID.
Pre-sale tickets available
Live Music All Day Wineries • Beer Garden • Food Entertainment • Silent Auction Merchandise Vendors Sponsored by Elma Chamber of Commerce
360.482.3055 | elmachamber.org
INNER GRAYS HARBOR Past and Present Mercantile 114 E. Heron St., Aberdeen Doug Moore, a vendor at Past and Present, said he likes to dig through old garages and barns to find his favorite kind of items — rusty. “I look mostly for mechanical and metal,” he said. “I like a place that’s junky. If I smell potpourri, I’m out.” Moore began selling his automotive artifacts (and his wife’s Jadeite collection) when they realized if they wanted to get more, they had to get rid of some of what they had. And a space at Past and Present worked for the couple. “It’s become a real stop for people on the way to the beach,” he said. “I’ve been here when there are tourists from Europe and Japan shopping.” Other booths offer furniture, kitchen items, kitsch items, clothing, records, toys and more.
The place with no name 202 S. K St., Aberdeen There’s no signage for “the store across the street from the old Goldberg’s,” but a glance through its windows will tell you all that’s needed. This spot at the southeast corner of Wishkah and K streets is known for quality picking, with an emphasis on local and regional stuff.
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“Chief picker” Sue Darcy (above left) operates Sooz Rusty Nail in Ocean Shores, specializing in “grandpa’s garage” items.
Keepsake Cottage 519 N. Maple St., Aberdeen Those in the know say this store is a great place for smaller items of quality at reasonable prices.
Earthwise Architectural Salvage 416 N. Park St., Aberdeen If you’re renovating an older home and are looking for period lighting, stained glass, furniture or even bathroom fixtures, this is the place to look. Don’t miss the room full of renovated old furniture!
NORTH BEACH Sooz Rusty Nail 698 Ocean Shores Blvd. NW, Ocean Shores (in the Driftwood Plaza) Sue Darcy, the self-designated “chief picker,” runs this well-curated collection of “grandpa’s garage” items. Need a traffic sign? A beer light? Maybe a fireplug? Sue has all kinds of neat stuff to look through. In summertime, she brings out some of her collection of “yard art,” but year-round she has repurposed materials 16
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in her shop, including pin-ends from Rainier Lanes’ bowling alley (they need to be switched out regularly), ammunition boxes as shelves, and much more. You can also get yourself a vintage trucker hat and work jacket to go with your vintage camping and logging equipment.
Treasures by the Beach 877 Pt. Brown Ave. NE, Ocean Shores If you’re antiquing in a beach town, be prepared to see a lot of beachy things. Some stores trend toward the big, brightly colored floats and crab traps. Others, like this one, focus on seashells and old glass floats. Also there are lots of examples of dishware, furniture, knickknacks and collectibles.
Old School Thrift Shop 27 Robertson School Road, Hoquiam (west of town, in Humptulips) Randy Denney sells what appears to be everything in this old one-room schoolhouse crammed with goods. Tools, books, toys, clothes, art — you name it, it’s probably in there. And the proceeds go to restoring the building, which was built in the
1930s. “I’m using the shop to save the shop,” he said. Selling and caring for old things is in Denney’s blood. His mother ran a consignment shop in Hoquiam and helped him learn what to look for. Denney also has an interest in local items, so you can find tool aprons from long-gone local hardware shops and tools from local lumber businesses. You could spend a whole day digging there.
SOUTH BEACH / PACIFIC COUNTY The Westport-Grayland area’s marquee antique store, the Painted Pelican, is closing; but the Golden Eagle Trading Post remains open at 325 N Montesano St. in Westport.
Canary Cottage / Pirate Pete’s 2500 Hwy. 101, Raymond This bright yellow building hosts a trove of random treasures — piratical and nautical as per half its name, sure, but also a wide assortment of musical items, décor and lots of random goodies. (See related story, Page 19.)
Gramma Deb’s Attic 606 Robert Bush Drive, South Bend The name says what it has: the old-fashioned, the gentle, the cozy. And, of course, there are plenty of collectibles — just like your gramma always had. PATRICIA JOLLIMORE PHOTOS
Harbor Place 313 West Wishkah Street Aberdeen Washington 98520
360 532-6140
FINE JEWELERS SINCE
1947
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ROB HILSON
The North Coast Antique Mall in Long Beach covers an entire city block, with100 vendors offering a variety of merchandise.
North Coast Antique Mall
Call 360-532-1900 300 Myrtle St. Hoquiam, WA
Quality Pet Care Serving the Twin Harbors since 1980
1206 47th Place, Long Beach Owner Martin Martinez has been in charge of this essential picker paradise for the past 15 years. He bought it from his nephew, who married the original owner’s daughter, keeping the business in the family for half a century. With around 100 different vendors spread over an entire city block, this former lumberyard has everything and anything. Furniture? Yep. Clothing? You want 100 years old or 10 years old? Art? Tools? Décor? Yep, yep and oh yep! There’s even a whole room with just pieces of cloth. It’s easy to get overwhelmed, but this is a unique place and definitely worth checking out.
Hobo Junction
Dr. Dan Brown If pets could drive, it’s where they’d go!
raintreevetcenter.com 18
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105 13th St. SW, Long Beach Lots of nautical items, but a variety of all kinds of stuff from vintage to industrial to plain old quirky.
Antique Gallery On the Beach 208 First Ave. South, Ilwaco High-end antique gallery with emphasis on smaller items.
Pirate Pete OFFERS HISTORICAL TRINKETS AND TALES
BY DAV E H A ER L E
here are collectors, and then there are Collectors — with a capital C. Pete Darrah, locally known as “Pirate Pete,” is the latter. The 84-year-old Marine Corps veteran has made his mark on the small community of Raymond with his story-telling and his vast collections. The most noticeable place to find the bounty of his almost eight decades of gathering is Pirate Pete’s Antiques, which shares a bright-yellow building with the Canary Cottage antique store, on Highway 101 between Raymond and South Bend. Be prepared to listen to all kinds of stories as you shop here; Pete is a veritable treasure trove of historical trivia, and he loves to share it. Pete was the son of a high-ranking U.S. Army officer. As a military family prior to and during World War II, they were on the move a lot. Pete recalls starting around age 6 collecting military items he found at the various Army installations where his father was stationed — things like surplus cannon balls, bayonets and military pins. His parents weren’t too keen on moving his ever-growing collection from place to place, so he had to get creative with it. As he helped with the packing for each move, he would furtively spread those items across large boxes holding the family’s various household items. “I created my own code, so I knew what I put in each box,” he said with a grin. After his discharge from the Marine Corps, Pete was a substitute teacher of English and history in public and private schools for many years; he even taught some night classes at Fort Lewis for the University of Puget Sound. He
MARCY MERRILL
Pete Darrah, aka “Pirate Pete,” stands in front of his Raymond antique shop.
also operated collectible and maritime shops in Gig Harbor and Tacoma. “I’ve always had a shop. I’ve had all kinds of shops,” he said. Gig Harbor, his home for 30 years, was gentrifying quickly in the mid-1990s, turning from a port town into a bedroom community. “It was getting really fancy, so I came down here,” he said of Raymond, where he has lived for 24 years. And when he found a suitable house, you know it had to be something with some history to it: a 110-year-old Craftsman-style home that is now packed with his most personal memorabilia. Soon after arriving on the Willapa Harbor, he opened Pirate Pete’s at 2500 Highway 101 in Raymond. On top of that, he was able to procure a spot on the banks of the Willapa River to hold and display his still-growing collection of maritime and military memorabilia. That became the Willapa Seaport Museum, which boasts a pretty
impressive collection. How much of the museum’s displays came from Pete? “All of it, just about,” he says matter-of-factly, noting that getting it all down there from Gig Harbor took “about 30 trips in a box truck.” Pete and other volunteers built and put together all of the museum’s display areas, which range from highly educational to whimsical. Military memorabilia include items from as far back as the War of 1812, and he’s particularly proud of his USS Arizona collection. There are also displays that cover commercial fishing, sport fishing, logging, pirates, Native American tribes of the region and longshoremen — just to name a few. Pete reluctantly acknowledges that it’s come time for him to slow down a bit for his sunset years, so you might not find him at Pirate Pete’s as often these days. “I don’t know how much longer I’m going to have the store,” he said.
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Berry good
ANGELA JOHNSON works on her award-winning cranberry lemon meringue tarts. (For her recipe, see Page 25.)
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Local cooks share their cranberry concoctions, tips and tricks
Discover Discover
Unforgettable Grays Harbor
Unforgettable Grays Harbor, WA
S TO RY BY K AT B RYA N T P H OTO S BY M A RC Y M ER R I L L
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’Tis the season for holiday feasts, with spreads varying widely based on family and cultural traditions. But whether the main course is turkey, ham, brisket, fish or tamales, cranberries tend to find their way onto American dinner tables in some form. With cranberry farms dotting the Washington Coast, it’s easy to find fresh berries this time of year. Where some folks get bogged down is the quest for creativity — making something more than a simple cranberry sauce. Plenty of good ideas may be gleaned from local cooks who enter their creations in Grayland’s annual Cranberry Cookoff, staged in conjunction with the community’s Cranberry Harvest Festival in October. Not all of them reveal their secrets, according to Leslie Eichner, executive director of the Westport-Grayland Chamber of Commerce, which has been organizing the annual event since 2012. She says many participants just never get around to sending her the recipes for the dishes they submit for judging. Others flat-out refuse. “One gal incorporated cranberries into her clam fritters and then made this sauce to go over the top of the fritters,” says Eichner. “It was buttery and heavenly and just divine — and she seriously would not share that recipe.” Volunteer Tanya Lana oversees every aspect of the cookoff — from advance publicity to judging to putting together the annual cookbook. She says she receives 35 to 50 contest entries each year, and about 25% of them are “regulars.” During the judging process, Lana is the only one in the room who knows the story behind each entry, including who the cooks are. She presents numbered samples to the three judges, who make their determinations
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Visit us online at facebook.com/GraysHarborTourism WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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based solely on what’s placed in front of them. They use a point system to grade taste, theme, texture, presentation, difficulty and quality of ingredients. Each line item gets a score between 1 and 5, with 5 being the best. After all of the judges have done that, they’re allowed to start discussing their opinions. As for choosing Best in Show, “everybody pretty much knows as soon as they taste it,” says Lana. “Everyone agrees.” 2019’s overall winner was Angela Johnson’s cranberry lemon meringue tart. One of the cookoff “regulars,” the Grayland resident also won the title in 2013 with a butternut squash cranberry cake. “This is one thing I look forward to every year — and it’s not about winning,” says Johnson. “I just love to participate, love to challenge people to the competition. I just think it’s fun. And I’ve even got my daughter and my sisters doing it!” As she plans her strategy each year, “I always think: What are my favorite things, and how can I turn them into a
cranberry dish — and showcase that berry?” says Johnson. “I usually start with a basic recipe and then twist it my way, adding things or changing something till it tastes good.” She based her winning 2013 entry on a pumpkin cake she liked, and this past year’s tarts came from a lemon bar recipe. “I’ve always liked baking. It’s always been something that I have to do,” Johnson says with a smile. Another cookoff “regular” is Westport resident Marianne Pence, whose triple chocolate cranberry torte placed second overall this past year. (She also got a ribbon in 2018 for her cranberry pumpkin spice muffins.) Pence loves cooking every bit as much as Johnson does, and she rarely follows recipes. “I’ll get the urge and start baking, mixing a handful of this with a handful of that,” she says. “When I’m done, I get (husband) Jeff or one of my ‘guinea pigs’ to try it. And if they say, ‘Oh my, that’s good!’ then I quickly try to write it down!” So, instead of a recipe box, she has a
stack of old envelopes with recipes hastily handwritten in cursive: cranberry soda bread, honey-anise-cranberry biscotti, yellow curry with cranberries
— the list goes on and on.
Downtown Aberdeen Association
City of Aberdeen
210 South 1 Street P.O. Box 1593 WA, 98520 (360) 986-3494
Aberdeen City Hall 200 E. Market Aberdeen WA 98520 (360) 533-4100
Building Tomorrow’s Aberdeen
www.downtownaberdeen.com 22
MARIANNE PENCE kneads a loaf of cranberry soda bread, which she makes often. The recipe that won accolades in the 2019 cookoff is at right.
WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
aberdeenwa.gov
Triple Chocolate Cranberry Torte From the kitchen of Marianne Pence, Westport ( Second place overall, 2019 ) LAYERS: 2 pouches Ghirardelli Triple Chocolate Brownie Mix 4 tbsp Belgian cocoa 1½ cups miniature semisweet chocolate chips cup cranberry juice, unsweetened cup vegetable oil cup applesauce, unsweetened 2 eggs, large 1 cup Craisins, chopped FILLING: 1½ cup cherry preserves (not pie filling) ¾ cup Craisins, chopped FROSTING: 4 oz. cream cheese, soft 1 tbsp milk (or a bit more, if needed) 2½ cups confectioners sugar, sifted 2 oz. chocolate, unsweetened, melted and slightly cooled 1 tsp vanilla extract Dash of salt Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Lightly spray two round 9x1½- inch cake pans with nonstick spray and set aside.
In a medium bowl, blend brownie mix, Belgian cocoa, chocolate chips
and chopped Craisins. In a large bowl, beat the eggs until light yellow and foamy. Slowly add cranberry juice, vegetable oil and applesauce; mix well. Add the dry ingredients and stir until well blended. Spread half of the batter into each of the two prepared cake pans and bake for 45-50 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack before removing from pans. While the layers are baking, prepare the filling: Heat the cherry preserves. Add the chopped Craisins and simmer for a couple of minutes. Remove from heat and cool in the pan. When the layers have cooled off, place one of them top-side down on a cake platter. Spread the cooled filling over it, then gently place the second layer on top of it. Now it’s time to make the frosting: Melt unsweetened chocolate over hot water or in the microwave. In a medium bowl, blend the cream cheese and milk. Gently add confectioners sugar. When well blended, add vanilla, salt and the melted chocolate. Mix well until almost fluffy. Thin mixture with a bit more milk if necessary for desired spreading consistency. Spoon the frosting on top of the cake and spread with a knife or spoon over the top and sides until all is covered. Refrigerate before cutting.
WASH
Greetings from Washington Coast Magazine!
INGTO N COAST MAGA ZIN
Old World Historic
E • SUM MER 201
of Oys beauty terville
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THE CO AST’S TUNA CAPIT AL COHA SS ET T BEACH REVIS ITE D OCEA N SHOR ES ’ HIDDE N TR EA SURE
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A supp L 2019 lement $3.99 to The Daily Worl d
Por tsca pes :
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Adult Cranberry Sauce From the kitchen of Gail Huggard, Grayland (2018 entry) ½ cup water ½ cup sugar ½ cup orange juice 3 cups cranberries 1 oz Cointreau liqueur 1 or 2 dashes cinnamon Zest from 1 orange Combine, water, sugar and orange juice in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Add cranberries; bring to a boil again. Add Cointreau, cinnamon and orange zest. Reduce heat; boil gently for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool and refrigerate.
GAIL HUGGARD is never short of fresh berries, as she lives next to her middle son’s bog in Grayland.
“You can use cranberry for anything,” says Pence. “You can we got a Family Circle or Good Housekeeping magazine and use it with meat, with vegetables, with other fruits, with pasta, made the whole dinner from their recipes,” says Zobrist. “I in sauces, in cookies and breads. You just have to be a little still make the same chutney almost every year!” creative!” She entered it the cookoff back in 1996 and won the overall Gail Huggard of Grayland received Best in Show several title. “My ribbon hung on the refrigerator for years. But someyears ago for a cranberry cheese bread she baked. In 2018, thing happened to it when I moved, so I may have to enter she entered her “adult” cranberry sauce (with orange again to get a new one,” she chuckles. liqueur). “It didn’t win anything,” she says, “but it was really Lana and Eichner also enjoy cooking with cranberries. good.” Lana loves their taste and bright color She’s been coming up with different in various dishes. Among many other ways to use cranberries for decades — things, she enjoys making cranberry and she’s never had any trouble getting butter with a little brown sugar, cinnaher hands on fresh ones. Her first mon and nutmeg, then using it in her husband, Bob, was a cranberry farmer, cooking. “That’s one of my go-tos when and now her three adult sons are in the I’m going to a potluck,” she says. business in Grayland too. And today, Eichner says she doesn’t experiment her picture window offers an idyllic much with cranberries in her kitchen, view of the bog operated by her middle largely because her partner of 10 years son, Doug. doesn’t particularly like them. Presentation matters to Huggard just “But I do love to do apple and cranas much as the ingredients do: “Everyberry things together,” she says. “I thing tastes better in something pretty.” always get raves on my apple-cranberry Not everyone enters brand-new crisp. With the sweet and the tart, it creations in the cookoff. Louise Zobrist works well.” of Westport has been making the same Across the board, these cooks greatly spicy cranberry chutney every fall for appreciate living where they have easy decades. Her faded, stained recipe card access to the versatile fruit. bears that out. “They’re just the coolest berry ever,” “A friend and I were doing Thankssays Johnson. “I love living in the TANYA LANA handles every aspect of giving dinner back in the mid-’70s, and bogs!” Grayland’s annual cranberry cookoff. 24
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EXPERT TIPS Marianne Pence: “Go where you can buy them fresh in bulk right out of the bogs. I usually buy at least 10 pounds, and I freeze them. They’re just as good a year later, and they’re loose, so you can take them out by the handful if you want to.” Angela Johnson: “Orange enhances cranberry flavor like nothing else. My dad taught me that. He always adds orange juice, but I started using orange zest, because that’s where most of the flavor is.” Louise Zobrist: “I always pick from the berries very carefully and take out any that are even a little bit soft. Also, when I cook them, it’s important to keep the heat going pretty good until they pop. That makes a difference. If you don’t, then they’re more like a whole berry and you get a mouthful of tough skin.” Gail Huggard: “When a recipe calls for fresh cranberries, I just pull them straight out of the freezer and put them in the pot. You don’t have to thaw them out! Also, when a recipe says to halve the berries — don’t. Just throw them in there; everything will be fine.” Tanya Lana: “I don’t feel the need to put as much sugar into cranberries as people want to do. The cranberry has a lovely flavor, and you can bring it out with other types of fruits or even spices. I love using nutmeg and cinnamon. Another fun thing I’m learning is that you don’t have to use a lot of cranberries (in a recipe); you can use half raisins and half cranberries.” Leslie Eichner: “Some people open up a bag of cranberries and find white ones in there, and they throw them out thinking they’re not ripe. That’s not the case! It’s just that they might have been buried a little bit, and so they didn’t get the color. If you pop open a white cranberry and its seeds are brown, it’s ripe. And when you cook them, they turn red anyway!”
LOUISE ZOBRIST still uses the recipe card she wrote in the 1970s to make her spicy cranberry chutney.
Spicy Cranberry Chutney From the kitchen of Louise Zobrist, Westport (Overall winner, 1996)
1 lb cranberries 1 cup seedless raisins 1²/³ cup sugar 1 T cinnamon 1½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp gound cloves 1 cup water 1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium apple, peeled, cored and chopped ½ cup celery, thinly sliced Combine everything except apple, onion and celery in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a slow boil and cook 15 minutes, or until the berries pop and sauce begins to thicken. Stir in apple, onion and celery. Cook 15 minutes longer. Cool and refrigerate before serving.
Cranberry Lemon Meringue Tart From the kitchen of Angela Johnson, Grayland (Best in Show, 2019) FILLING: 3 cups cranberries Juice of 2 lemons Zest from 1 lemon 1 cup sugar (approx.) 1 pint raspberries 3 egg yolks 4 tbsp butter Make basic pie crust; cut and bake in tart pans and let them cool. Cook down cranberries with lemon juice and zest. Add sugar slowly, tasting as you go. (The amount might change depending on tartness of the cranberries.) Add raspberries. When thick, press through a small strainer to
get all the seeds out. It should be very smooth. Then whisk egg yolks in a separate bowl and temper the stovetop mixture with them. Cook until thick, then add butter. Pour mixture into tart shells and let them set. Make basic meringue. Pipe the meringue on top of tarts, then torch the tops until brown.
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Coastal haunts Rusty vessels above and below waterline display eerie beauty
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T E X T A N D P H OTO S BY S H A N N A G I L L E T T E
fter almost 15 years working on and off the road including extended stints in Arizona, Florida, Texas, and California, photographer Shanna Gillette came to Pacific County three and a half years ago with her partner, a fellow artist and home remodeler. Here, she became fascinated with forgotten landscapes and lonely vestiges of the once-booming seafaring communities now haunting the coastal areas. My grandpa on one side was a truck driver with roots tracing back to explorer Sir Francis Drake. My other grandpa was a pilot with lineage tracing back to Bohemia, Czechoslovakia,” she says. “Dad was a sailor and a pilot … the list goes on. You could say that traveling and my fascination with old ships, cars and planes is in my gypsy blood.
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COASTAL HAUNTS: ON THE WATERLINE
ABOVE: Orion (on the cover) and Joker (above) are privately owned boats in Raymond. Their owners, the Bisbees of Raymond, have not had the time they’d hoped to restore them. Joker was a domestic fish trawler working out of Astoria and Westport. She has been out of commission for 20 years. FACING PAGE: The research vessel Hero, now half-sunk in Bay Center, was reportedly the last wooden ship built to sail specifically in Antarctic waters and conditions. The family of her longtime captain maintains a Facebook page in homage to both of them: www.facebook.com/usrvhero. In November 2016, Hero’s owner, Sun Feather LightDancer, sold her to a shipyard in Seattle (for $1), but the buyer never arranged to take her there. In 2017, she began to sink from neglect, leaking oil into Willapa Bay. She still sits there half-sunk today, with no updates as to her removal or cleanup. WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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COASTAL HAUNTS: ON THE WATERLINE
These three old but still active vessels were all photographed at Goose Point Oystery on Willapa Bay.
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COASTAL HAUNTS: ON THE WATERLINE
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COASTAL HAUNTS: ON THE WATERLINE
TOP: The remnants of this barge can be seen from Highway 101 near Dismal Nitch, just before crossing the Astoria-Megler Bridge into Astoria. No information was readily available about this vessel. CENTER: This old dinghy was sitting on a dock near Bay Center. RIGHT: This old sailboat was spotted along Highway 101 between Discovery Bay and Skokomish.
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COASTAL HAUNTS: ON THE WATERLINE
Tristan Kyle, Home Run and an unnamed vessel are among several that have been abandoned in Bay Center. They are landmarks of time that tell the story of the tides and the history of this area. Research reveals very little information about these boats, except that Tristan Kyle has been there for at least 30 years.
Shanna Gillette keeps busy shooting real estate photography as well as teaching photography through Grays Harbor College. She also teaches yoga and mindfulness at various places throughout the Pacific Northwest. She is writing a book about her adventures on the road and philosophies on life. You can see more of her work at shannagillettephotography.com, or find her on Facebook or Instagram. WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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TIED UP IN
KNOTS Raymond’s ‘Captain John’ strives to share his expertise
E
S TO RY BY M EL I S S A V ERG A R A P H OTO S BY J ER RY M c CO L LU M
verything about the stories “Captain John” Johnson tells about his 25 years on commercial fishing vessels are as lively as he is. During those years, he rediscovered the art of knot tying, which he’d learned as a child during a prolonged illness. (See “Second sight,” page 34.) When they weren’t hauling in giant marlin or tuna, crew members would tie knots into jewelry or little trinkets to take home. Tying knots even helped him tie the knot: He created an extremely difficult eight-point star knot for his wife’s ring finger, and she wears it proudly. “It is special because John made it,” said Lois Johnson. “Also, comments in Hawaii were ‘Only a fisherman’s wife would have a knotted ring.’ I liked it because it was unique.”
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Captain John Johnson has been tying knots since childhood and is eager to pass along his skills.
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SECOND SIGHT
Captain John applies his expertise to enhance individual items including swordfish bills, picture frames, glass floats and more. “The whole thing with me is to design something that flatters the piece that it’s on — that attracts you to something that is kind of unique,” he says.
In 2006, at age 62, he retired from commercial fishing and dedicated his retirement to tying knots. He sold his work at 18 knife and gun shows that year. After that exhausting experience, he went back to commercial fishing. In 2012, he retired for the last time and has worked only on knotting since then. Now 75, Johnson bases his designs on decades of experience choosing the right kind of line or rope and the right combination of knots. For example, the “eye” on top of a glass float is a standard pattern; however, for the many surrounding knots, Johnson makes up the design as he goes along. He feels knots are a way to highlight 34
each individual piece, whether it’s a glass float, a bottle, a picture frame or the bill of a swordfish. “The whole thing with me is to design something that flatters the piece that it’s on — that attracts you to something that is kind of unique,” he said. As Johnson sits in his Raymond home, knotting his way around a glass float, a visitor can clearly see his deep concentration and the glint in his eye as he works. He is always smiling, always helping, always teaching. He gives his time and talent freely to the community as he tries to teach as many as are willing to learn the art. His mission is to reveal the overlooked
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Captain John Johnson’s story of becoming an expert knot tyer is truly a tale of sacrifice and acceptance. Born in Salem, Oregon, he contracted typhoid fever when he was 7 years old. Clots developed in the main arteries of his eyes. Because he was too young for any surgical procedure that might have corrected it, he gradually went blind. Every detail Johnson recalls of the Oregon School for the Deaf and Blind is shared as a-matter-of-fact part of his life. There are no bitter emotions or sense of dread and loss. He talks of it as an invaluable memory that charted the course of his life. A year and a half after he began his studies there, he spent six months in the infirmary with a life-threatening heart problem. It was at that precarious point in his life that he learned a new skill. A Scandinavian nurse who cared for him and four other students taught them how to weave placemats with a loom, and she taught them how to tie knots. Johnson took to it right away. Tying knots helped distract him from the fact that each day was an unknown. He practiced relentlessly. One symptom of his heart’s leaking mitral valve was drops in blood pressure. The treatment used to stabilize the pressure caused his blood to thin. As a result, the clots in the main arteries of his eyes cleared out. Just as he had gradually become blind, he gradually regained his sight. Later, after graduating from Snohomish High School, he served as a ship’s captain in Hawaii for 25 years. During that time, he rediscovered and began to refine his knot-tying skills.
Captain John teaches occasional community classes on the art of knot-tying.
beauty of knots. And his wife is always there to support and assist. “I have always helped John, no matter what profession he was or has been in,” she said. “I like the fact that John can make something out of line. I like the fact that it is a piece of art, and something creative.” He has not yet started working on the book McGraw-Hill Publishing Co. has asked him to write (a book of instruction for 100 different knots with illustrations). Teaching others in person is more important to him right now. “It’s never been about the money. It’s always been about the work we create,” said Johnson. He has been training his longtime friend Jim Simpson to carry on his legacy. He teaches Simpson the knots and has him assist with classes. Simpson said Johnson is a patient mentor. “He draws stuff out of you that you never thought was there. He brings out your creativity. He does all
that while keeping the rope tight — and without measuring, he keeps everything uniform.” Johnson’s dream project stems from the complicated and revered art of Chinese knot tying. He wants to put together a fashion show that focuses on simple clothing with knot jewelry. He wants to show people the beauty of knot tying and how dependent people are on knots in their daily lives. Even fabric, he noted, is just a combination of knots.
Lois Johnson is always by her husband’s side at festivals and other events.
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Our Favorite Events
Festival of Lights, Dec. 13-15 in Ilwaco.
DECEMBER
at 10:30 a.m. and then holds court at the Maritime Museum.
Driftwood Players Holiday Show
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6-15
The Driftwood Players of Aberdeen continue their run of “Over the River and Through the Woods,” a holiday comedy by Joe DiPietro.
Made in Tokeland
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7
Downtown Raymond Lighted Christmas Parade
Lighted Christmas floats make their way through downtown Raymond.
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Santa By The Sea Santa By the Sea, Dec. 7 in Ocean Shores.
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With help of the Coast Guard, Santa arrives at Float 6 at the Westport Marina
The second annual event at the Tokeland Hotel features local artists displaying their wares for holiday shoppers.
Crab Pot Christmas Tree
The world’s largest Christmas tree made from real live-crab pots. This festive event is held annually on the first Saturday of December at the Port of Ilwaco. The tree lighting is at 5 p.m., followed by a reading of “A Coastal Christmas” by Lynette McAdams, crabby Christmas caroling and the world’s shortest firework display.
Crab Pot Christmas Tree lighting, Dec. 7 in Ilwaco.
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Winterfest: Andrew Allen As part of Aberdeen’s Winterfest, singer and songwriter Andrew Allen will perform a holiday show at 2 p.m. along with some of his Top 10 Canadian hits. The show will also feature local schoolchildren on stage performing with Allen. At the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts at Grays Harbor College.
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Water Music Society Christmas Concert The annual concert features top-notch musicians is a festively decorated venue: the Inn at Harbour Village in Ilwaco.
13-15
Festival of Lights Montesano residents go all out with their holiday lights. The city takes it seriously: There’s a choir in the county courthouse, a yule log at Fleet Park downtown and a lighted nighttime parade on Saturday.
14
Tuba Christmas Concert This free concert at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum features the Astoria Tuba Quartet, which will perform a variety of seasonal selections, jazz arrangements and a polka or two.
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WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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15
“Ringing in the Season” The Grays Harbor Civic Choir, directed by Kari Hasbrouck, and the Concert Band, directed by Tiffany Maki, present “Ringing in the Season,” which will include holiday favorites with a bell theme. The choir will be joined by the Amazing Grace Lutheran Church Handbell Choir on several selections at the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts in Aberdeen.
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Fireworks at Midnight over the Ocean Fireworks in front of the boardwalk in Long Beach ring in the New Year.
JANUARY 11-12
Grays Harbor Opera: “The Magic Flute” A condensed, English-language version of Mozart’s timeless masterpiece at the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts.
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Jazz Festival featuring the Dukes of Swing The concert is part of the third annual Grays Harbor College Jazz Festival at the Bishop Center for Performing Arts.
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The Lonely: Roy Orbison Memories A two-hour tribute to the iconic Roy Orbison at the historic Raymond Theatre in downtown Raymond.
FEBRUARY 1
“Call Mr. Robeson” In a one-man show, actor, writer and producer Tayo Aluko is Paul Robeson, a world-famous actor, singer and civil rights campaigner. At the Bishop Center for the Performing Arts in Aberdeen.
7-23
“Bell, Book and Candle” The Driftwood Players of Aberdeen offer this romantic comedy for teens and adults for eight performances during February. Written by N. Richard Nash and directed by Kathe Rowe.
14-16
Ocean Shores Renewed Antique Show More than 60 vendors come together at the OS Convention Center to offer a variety of interesting antique finds.
Elma Winter Wine Festival, Jan. 18.
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Elma Winter Wine Festival The annual event features wines from dozens of Northwest wineries, food and merchandise vendors and live music — from noon to 9 p.m. at the Grays Harbor County Fairgrounds.
25
21st annual Black & White Gala A fundraising event for the United Way that benefits 23 programs in Grays Harbor and Pacific counties. The evening includes a fabulous fivecourse plated dinner at the Quinault Beach Resort & Casino.
25-26
Windless Kite Festival The longest-running indoor kite festival in North America returns to the Long Beach Elementary School gymnasium for its 17th year.
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Chocolate on the Beach Festival, Feb. 27 to March 1 in and around Pacific Beach.
WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
27-March 1
Chocolate on the Beach Festival It’s always raining chocolate the last weekend in February. Started in Pacific Beach, this event has grown to encompass events in Moclips, Aloha, Copalis Crossing, Seabrook and Copalis Beach as well.
28-March 1
MARCH 6-15
“Oliver” Lionel Bart’s classic musical based on Charles Dickens’ novel “Oliver Twist,” at the Bishop Center for Performing Arts in Aberdeen.
22nd annual Fisher Poets Gathering A celebration of the commercial fishing industry in poetry, prose and song, the Fisher Poets Gathering has attracted fisher poets and their many fans to Astoria, Oregon, the last weekend of February since 1998.
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Sunday Afternoon Live: North Country One of the Northwest’s premier bluegrass bands performs at the historic Raymond Theatre in downtown Raymond.
Beachcombers Fun Fair The 32nd annual event features informational booths, exhibits and seminars at the Ocean Shores Convention Center.
GHC Winter Jazz Concert This quarterly concert at the Bishop Center for Performing Arts in Aberdeen features the Grays Harbor College Jazz Band and Jazz Choir.
Beachcombers Fun Fair, March 7-8 in Ocean Shores.
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WINTER 2020
Contents
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
PERENNIALS 4 8 36 Welcome to the Winter 2020 edition of Washington Coast Magazine! Within these pages, you’ll discover why birds flock to sewage treatment ponds; get the info you need to plan a productive antiquing trip; learn just how versatile cranberries are; and get tied up in Captain John’s intricate craft. Shanna Gillette, a professional photographer based in South Bend, has transformed rusty boats into works of art for our featured photo essay, “Coastal Haunts.” Some vessels are half sunk; some are floating ghosts; some are still in use. All are beautiful with Shanna’s touch. We continue to seek compelling images by amateur Washington photographers for the “Last Shot” feature, like the one by Skip Radcliffe on Page 42. Please send original size (full resolution) photos for consideration to me at editor@ washingtoncoastmagazine.com. In addition, we would like to connect with homeowners willing to participate in a recurring feature we call “Open House.” Please contact us if you (or someone you know) lives in a unique or historically significant home anywhere on the Coast and might be willing to give our readers a virtual tour. Thank you for your continued support!
40 42
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR BIRD’S-EYE VIEW Why sewage treatment plants are bird havens
OUR FAVORITE EVENTS What’s happening along the Coast this season
WHY I LOVE IT HERE Julie Smith of the Westport-Grayland Historical Society
LAST SHOT “Work and Play,” by Skip Radcliffe
8 ON THE COVER The Orion started out as a shrimping and king crabbing vessel in Alaska, then ended her career as a tuna boat. Now moored in Raymond, she has been out of commission for 10 years. PHOTO BY SHANNA GILLETTE
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Why I Love It Here
JULIE SMITH
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WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
In my opinion, the best thing about Westport is the Maritime Museum. I’m lucky enough to spend 40 hours a week there with Chief, my German shepherd and the museum’s mascot.
I
enjoy going on adventures with Chief or friends — taking a drive up to Ocean Shores for the day to have lunch at Galway Bay Irish Pub and check out the Coastal Interpretive Center. Driving farther up the Coast to visit Lake Quinault, have dinner at the Salmon House and go for a stroll through the rainforest. La Push is a favorite spot — lunch at the River’s Edge restaurant and a walk on First Beach. I also like to stop at Ruby and Rialto beaches and the Hoh Rainforest. There’s nothing like the peace you feel when you’re standing in the middle of the rainforest and the only thing you can hear is nature. Sometimes we head south to Ilwaco for the Saturday Market or to Long Beach, where it’s fun to just walk the streets — maybe get a raspberry lemon shakeup at Sweet Phee’s, or some dinner at the Lost Roo. In my opinion, the best thing about Westport is the Maritime Museum. I’m lucky enough to spend 40 hours a week there with Chief, my German shepherd and the museum’s mascot. I’m proud to live in Westport and be part of the driving force that recently made Westport an official Coast Guard City, the only one in the state of Washington. My role with the Westport South Beach Historical Society led me to take on another role as a Parks and Recreation commissioner. It is my hope that we will be able to turn Parks and Rec around to provide more places for people to enjoy the outdoors along the South Beach, such as parks with better playground equipment and a dog park. I love living in a small, beautiful coastal town, where I can enjoy a more peaceful way of life with Chief and my two cats, Kati and Kali. It’s a place where you know a lot of people and we all look out for each other. It’s so much better than living in the city, with all of the traffic and so many people that no one knows anyone else. Whenever I need to go to a big city, I can’t wait to get back home to the Coast.
Julie Smith works at the Westport Maritime Museum (above) and travels up and down the Coast with her German shepherd, Chief.
Julie Smith is operations manager of the Westport South Beach Historical Society, which operates the Westport Maritime Museum and Grays Harbor Lighthouse. (They’re always looking for volunteers!) You can reach her at juliesmith.wsbhs@gmail.com, or visit her and Chief at the museum.
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LAST SHOT
&
Work Play
BY SK IP R A D CL IFFE
T
his photo of surfers near sunset was taken off the beach in Ocean Shores in April. In the background is the crab boat Danube II, based out of Westport. (It is actually a friend of mine’s boat, which I didn’t know at the time I took this picture.) The boat was coming back from a long day of pulling crab pots. 42
WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
About: Skip Radcliffe was born in Enumclaw and transplanted to Ocean Shores 10 years ago with his wife, Carol. He took up photography as a hobby about four years ago. Reach him at skipr857@yahoo.com.
Editor’s Note: Amateur photographers are welcome to send high-resolution images depicting some element of life on the Washington Coast to be considered for the Last Shot. Please include a photo title and description, as well as a short bio and contact information. Send your submissions to editor@washingtoncoastmagazine.com.
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WINTER 2020
Contents
12
FEATURES
12 ANTIQUING THE COAST 19 PIRATE PETE 20 CRANBERRY CONCOCTIONS COASTAL HAUNTS 26 32 ALL TIED UP IN KNOTS A curated list of recommended stores for discerning collectors
Shop owner shares historical trinkets and tales with visitors
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Grayland-area cooks share their best recipes and tips
Rusty vessels above and below waterline display eerie beauty
Captain John Johnson strives to share his knotting expertise
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5
North Beach RV Parts, Sales, Service & Mobile Service northbeachrv@coastaccess.com 360-532-4000 editor@washingtoncoastmagazine.com
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Jeff Bryant Shanna Gillette Dave Haerle Rob Hilson Patricia Jollimore Jerry McCollum Marcy Merrill Skip Radcliffe Julie Smith Melissa Vergara Callie White
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Circulation director
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Advertising inquiries, subscriptions & change of address: 360-532-4000. Back issues: $8 plus shipping & handling. Washington Coast Magazine is published by The Daily World, a division of Sound Publishing Inc., and may not be reproduced without express written permission. All rights reserved. No liability is assumed by Washington Coast Magazine, The Daily World or Sound Publishing regarding any content in this publication. A subscription to Washington Coast Magazine is $14 annually. Single copies are available at select locations throughout Grays Harbor and Pacific counties. For details, visit www.washingtoncoastmagazine.com
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Real Estate / Ocean Shores 6
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Bird’s-Eye View
On a cold winter day, the warm waters of the oxidation ditch at Hoquiam’s STP are like a spa for gulls.
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FLUSH WITH FLOCKS: Why sewage treatment plants are bird havens
O
CO LU M N A N D P H OTO S BY J EF F B RYA N T
nce we flush, we generally prefer not to think about what happens at the other end of the pipe. Birds, however, are immune to the “ew!” reflex. For several reasons, both naughty and nice, sewage treatment plants (or STPs), especially those in coastal communities, are bird magnets. Hoquiam’s STP, for example, has hosted well over 200 species — more than 40% of all the birds ever recorded in the entire state! And the only place in Washington that a little Eurasian sandpiper known as Temminck’s stint has ever been recorded is on the humble ponds of the Ocean Shores STP.
Signs at the Ocean Shores STP both welcome visiting birders and poke fun at them. WASH I NGTON COAST MAGA ZI N E | WI NTER 2020
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