The Cellar Door Issue 26: The Loire Valley

the

Cellar Door Wine a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i l le & J o n e s W i n e Co.

Issue 26 February 2017 – May 2017

THE LOIRE VALLEY

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contents Features

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20 A Pocket Guide to the Wines of the Loire Valley Andrea Eby provides a crash course on one of the most complex and fascinating wine regions in France.

38 Tradition and Experience: An Interview with Catherine Corbeau-Mellot Catherine Corbeau-Mellot of Domain Joseph Mellot talks to Sylvia Jansen about what it means to preserve the heritage and grow a brand that has been a part of the Loire Valley for over 500 years.

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43 Unforgettable Wine & Cheese Banville & Jones’s wine experts team up with Winnipeg’s favourite Cheesemongers to show you how to do wine and cheese pairing right.

55 From Castles to Caves: Travelling the Loire Valley Gary Hewitt explores all of the ways to take in the châteaux, wine regions, and sights of the Loire Valley.

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Cover: The Château de Chenonceau straddles the Cher River in the Loire Valley.

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Honest food created from the diversity of the lands and waters of our great country.

Capture the season in a glass with our eclectic wine menu In n at the Forks –– 75 Forks Market Road 204.944.2445 twitter.com/smithwin nipeg smithrestaura nt.ca

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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones

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12 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company 28 Behind the Label Pearl Morissette Estate Winery

31 Trending The Secret of Small Batch

34 Gary’s Corner Sincere Imitation (and Then Some)

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50 Profile Chef Thomas Stuart, ThermĂŤa

53 Gluggy The Small Print

60 Wine & Drinks College Manitoba 63 Banville & Jones Wine & Food Events 66

64 Culinary Partners 66 Sidebar Sweeten Me Up

69 Shopping List 70 Top Picks

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Visit our local showroom at 343 Gunn Road www.GenuwineCellars.com | 204.668.8101

Wine rooms that belong to you.

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the

Cellar Door

fine oil + vinegar tasting bar

Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead Graphic Design Ryan Germain | ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com

Frescolio’s fine oils and vinegars add depth to your cooking.

Baklouti Shrimp

Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Doug Brown, Courtney Dhaliwal, Jan De Vleming, Josie Duthoit, Andrea Eby, Anna Everett, Meg Gifford, Rhonda Hancock, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Ian McCausland, Sara McDonald, Mike Muirhead, Joel Ross, Rob Stansel, Renée Vincent Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co.

by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

14 large raw prawns, tail off and deveined ¼ cup Thai chili sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1 tsp Frescolio Baklouti Fused EVOO ¼ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped

For advertising information, please contact vanessa@poisepublications.com

¼ cup fresh basil, finely chopped BBQ skewers.

Set aside shrimp, and combine remaining ingredients to make a marinade. Skewer shrimp and marinate for 30-60 minutes.

Grill on medium heat 3-4 minutes per side. Remove from skewers to serve.

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. It is located in a three-storey Tuscaninspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room.

For more oil and vinegar pairing and recipe ideas, visit

Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com

frescolio.ca 2-929 Corydon Ave. | 204-505-1455 5-1604 St Mary’s Rd. | 204-615-3885 Open Tuesday through Sunday

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a message from tina jones TINA’S FAVES

“You realize that you know something about wine when you realize you know nothing.”

Friends in great wine regions: One of the magical possibilities about the world of wine is its ability to connect us with people.

Olivier Rivain of Domain Joseph Mellot in Sancerre has visited us in Winnipeg and never fails to remember our beloved Jets in his messages! We encourage our customers and friends to dine at their Auberge and taste the wonderful wines of Joseph Mellot!

This is one of the sayings I hear from our wine experts. The world of wine is so incredibly deep and complex, that to have some knowledge about it is to realize just how much there is to know.

Learning about wine is a lesson in humility.

Elegant, cool climate wines: I love a light-bodied Loire rosé, or a complex and refreshing Loire Sauvignon Blanc any time of the year.

Join me in an enchanting and educational tour through this classic region. Gary Hewitt tours from the Atlantic coast at Nantes to the central vineyards near Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé; Sylvia Jansen talks to the head of the historic Domain Joseph Mellot, Catherine Courbeau-Mellot; and Andrea Eby unravels the region’s complexities. Elsewhere we explore the beauty of cheese and wine, and enjoy a lesson in French quality designations that can give us fun wines and value added.

The history: There is something fascinating about a river valley that has been a trade route for thousands of years and is still a playground today.

For me the Loire Valley is one of those lessons. When we began to discuss the Loire, I realized just how complicated the region is. The massive river marks an informal dividing line in France: national weather forecasts often refer to weather patterns north or south of the Loire. The river runs past magical castles, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and varied wine areas with multiple grape varieties and wine styles.

We hope you will be inspired as you learn!

Cheers!

Tina Jones

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ask a sommelier One of my friends says that chocolate and red wine are a great pairing, but I think they’re terrible together. What’s up?

—Robert Wiebe

chocolate orange; or Marcel Vézien DemiSec Champagne ($44.99) paired with a chocolate mousse. These combinations with a wine that is sweeter than the chocolate will be much more exciting for your palate and truly worth the try.

Dear Robert, —Jill Kwiatkoski Pairing chocolate and red wine does indeed appeal to a lot of people. Maybe it’s all the hype around Valentine's Day that makes us believe it is a good combination and gift, or maybe it is just the richness of both of these indulgent beauties that is most likely the appeal; like pouring gravy on creamy mashed potatoes or pouring hot fudge on rich chocolate ice cream.

In reality, the combination of chocolate and red wine is a bit too overpowering for your palate and it coats your mouth while flavours linger far too long. The sweetness and tannins of the chocolate may also make a dry red wine taste sour. This may be why it doesn't particularly appeal to you.

Avoid pairing dry red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, Pinot Noir, etc. with chocolate. It is much more satisfying and interesting to pair wines that are sweeter than the chocolate, for example: Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal ($17.99) paired with milk chocolate; Quinta do Infantado Ruby Port ($22.99) paired with dark chocolate; a Tawny Port like Delaforce ($17.99) or 10-Year Old Madeira Justino ($34.99; 375 ml) paired with a caramel chocolate or a nut chocolate combination; Casa Silva Late Harvest Semillon/Gewürztraminer ($9.99; 375 ml) or Château Les Pins Muscat de Rivesaltes ($26.99) paired with

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There are so many good BC wine producers.

Why can’t we get them in other provinces?

—Shelley Boese Dear Shelley, This is a question that I have run into many times. Canadian wines are subject to the same government mark-up as wines from all over the world. What that means is that wines that cost $15 in BC tend to cost almost double when they get to Manitoba. Many wineries will often have “wholesale” pricing so that their wines arrive in Manitoba at around the same price as their local market.

However, most of the time, many BC (and other Canadian) wineries can sell most of their wine in their local markets at their full price—so why would they sell to another market at a discounted price? I’m a firm believer that if Canadian wines are going to compete on the international stage, they need to be judged not only internationally, but nationally as well. I believe the Canadian government needs to re-examine how Canadian wines are taxed so they can become as popular across the nation as they are in their local markets.

—Mike Muirhead I heard the term “Pét-Nat” the other day.

What the heck is that?

Loire Valley, examples can now be found in every au courant wine bar, and every wine region has more than a handful of producers creating their own versions.

In their purest form, Pét-Nats are made by simply taking wine that is still fermenting and bottling it, allowing the fermentation to come to completion inside the bottle.

Yeasts in the wine consume the remaining grape sugar, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide has nowhere to escape to so it dissolves into the wine, resulting in a lightweight, slightly fizzy finished product. Pét-Nats come in red, white, and rosé versions and range from bone-dry to sweet. Unlike many sparkling wines, the yeast cells are usually not removed from Pét-Nats, so you can expect a slightly cloudy wine in your glass. Made with minimal intervention, these wines can show some bottle variation but generally share a very gulpable quality, not unlike a well-made cider or sour beer.

The Pét-Nat popularity craze has not yet made its way to Winnipeg, but we do have a couple of wines that are made in a similar fashion that we encourage to you to try. The first is the Domaine de Martinolles Vergnes Méthode Ancestrale, a sweeter style of PétNat wine made from the Mauzac grape in the southwest of France. At $19.99, this is a more mainstream version of Pét-Nat that rarely throws any sediment but is a delish starting point for your foray into the category. Another great example is the Tenuta l’Armonia Pop Frizzi Col Fondo ($19.99, arriving February 23), crafted by natural winemaker Andrea Pendin, in the hills north of Vicenza, Italy. This fun, and just a little bit funky, unfiltered blend of Durella and Pinot Bianco is sure to appeal to almost anyone!

—Leslie Ritchie —Andrea Eby Dear Leslie, Pét-Nat is the abbreviated form of Pétillant Naturel, a very trendy style of sparkling wine that is the darling of the “natural” wine scene. Originally conceived in France’s

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER@BANVILLEJONES.

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CONNECTING URBAN LIFE WITH NATURE

ENJOY A FRESH, PLEASANT, INTENSELY FLAVOURED WINE, WHICH IS CONNECTED TO NATURE The wild black swans at El Yali bring beauty to this sanctuary; in the same way, this line of wines will bring beauty to your dinner table.

Fresh, fruity and easy to drink wines.

SAUVIGNON BLANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Chile, Valle Central

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ALL YOU NEED IS

IOVE’S PERFECT CIRCLE EMBRACES EVERY MOMENT OF LIFE One name, three great wines CHARDONNAY PINOT GRIGIO SANGIOVESE MERLOT TREBBIANO

Italy, Emilia-Romagna

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banville & jones and company

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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Andrea Eby, Kim Antonation of Univins, Gianmaria Cesari of Umberto Cesari, and Gary Hewitt; 2. Bobby Mottola and Richard Hanna of Pizzeria Gusto with Jill Kwiatkoski at Gold Medal Plates; 3. Jesse Friesen and his Gold Medal team from Pizzeria Gusto; 4. Chef Eraj and the Fairmont team compete at Gold Medal Plates; 5. James Langmeil of Langmeil Winery enjoys his copy of The Cellar Door at The Alt Hotel; 6. Tina Jones and Diego Bonato of Tolaini Estates celebrate Andrea Eby's graduation from the WSET Diploma program in London, England.

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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 7. Jill Kwiatkoski, Kristyn Luft, Shandra Czarnecki, and Sheryl Tittlemier in the Okanagan Valley; 8. Celeste Slow, Tina Jones, and Claudia Vorlaufer in Tuscany; 9. Harvest at Triguedina Jean-Luc Baldès, France (photo by Charlotte Guerin); 10. Todd Antonation and Chaz Wynn at Tawse Winery, Niagara; 11. Tina Jones, Tracey Court, and Howard Soon of Sandhill Wineries, Okanagan Valley; 12. Alessandra Deiana from Monteraponi Winery, Chianti with Andrea Eby; 13. Gary Hewitt with fellow FWS instructors and hosts at lunch at Château de Brissac.

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Photo credit: InterLoire

A Pocket Guide to the Wines of the Loire Valley

By Andrea Eby, D-WSET, CMS, Sommelier

I confess that, to the detriment of my social life, I have spent an inordinate amount of time studying about wine, something that my friends never fail to remind me of.

Despite the years of my life devoted to wine study, I am still at times confused and confounded by the Loire. I sympathize with the casual wine drinker and understand why they glance fleetingly at the store’s Loire section before they discreetly sidestep their way towards Best Bets.

If, to the professional, this region can seem daunting, it can be downright bewildering to those people who have better things to do with their time than memorize grape varieties for a living.

If the Loire section reads like a lesson in hieroglyphics to you, you are not alone. However, despite its complexity, the region possesses an esteemed past, an underexploited present, and an almost limitless future. So, what does the savvy consumer really need to know in order to capitalize on the potential of the Loire?

Just the Facts Let’s start with what you don’t need to know. You don’t need to memorize the over 85 separate appellations that line the banks of the 1,015 km Loire river. You don't need to familiarize yourself with each of the over 4,000 wineries that call this region home. You don’t need to know the characteristics of each of the over 15 different grape varieties that contribute to the region’s varied wines.

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What you should know is that the Loire is the largest white wine region in France and the country’s second largest producer of sparkling wine. Despite producing a diverse range of wines at often very reasonable price points, the region remains off the radar of many wine drinkers. You should know that this is not a wine region destined to produce the extracted, full-bodied and brooding reds so often prized in the modern era, where a wine’s weight and strength are often used to judge its worth. But the pendulum is swinging and wine lovers are re-discovering the joys of elegance, subtly, and complexity over brute strength. You should also know that a disproportionate number of organic, biodynamic and “natural” winemakers hail from the Loire. More and more wine drinkers are looking toward this underrated region as a source of well-made and well-priced wines. The secret is out!

What the Pros Know It is essential to know that, although the region stretches over 1,000 km from the Atlantic Ocean to the Massif Central (an area characterized by mountains and plateaus), it can be divided into three primary growing areas, each dominated by several grape varieties (see map page 22).

From the headwaters of the Loire River deep in the heart of France to the city of Orleans, the Upper Loire region is home to some of the Loire’s most famous wines. The

UPPER LOIRE WINES

Domaine des Pothiers 2014 Nº6 Gamay Cote Roannaise AC, France $24.99 Joseph Mellot 2015 La Chatellenie Sancerre Loire Valley IGP, France $32.99

names to know here include Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, regions both renowned for the archetypal Sauvignon Blanc wines. Refreshingly crisp with subtle flavours of gooseberry, nettles, citrus and a flinty mineral note, many regard these wines as the variety’s best examples.

Other high-quality regions to watch for include MenetouSalon, Quincy, and Reuilly. Smart shoppers can score great examples of Sauvignon Blanc from these less famous neighbouring regions. Bright, fresh, and elegant examples of reds crafted from Pinot Noir and Gamay can also be found in Sancerre, for those that know to look.

Travelling down river we reach the region referred to simply as the Middle Loire. It is here that the Loire’s true level of complexity shines through. Countless appellations, grape varieties, and wine styles dot the varied geological landscape. Years of study could be devoted to truly understanding this complex region, but for the everyday consumer, it helps to know that this is the land of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. While other grape varieties exist, and lend themselves to a myriad of wines, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc dominate the reputation of the region.

Chenin Blanc is a white grape variety that reaches its apogee in this region of the Loire. Depending on where it is grown and the style the winemaker is aiming for, Loire Chenins range from crisp and appley to honeyed and tropical. From the dry, dense, rich, and ageworthy examples of Savennières, to the honeyed dessert wines of Coteaux du Layon, to the sparkling Crémant de Loire, it is in this region that Chenin shows its true colours as one of the world’s most versatile grape varieties. Within the Middle Loire also lies the slightly better known yet confusing region of Vouvray. Again we have Chenin

MIDDLE LOIRE WINES

Domaine de la Treille 2015 Thibault Henrion Cabernet Franc Anjou, Loire Valley $14.99 Domaine du Salvard 2014 Delaille Blanc Cheverny, Loire Valley $21.99 Domaine Loizeau Le Clain 2015 Les Tuloires Coteaux de l’Aubance, Loire Valley $22.99 Château d’Epiré 2014 Savennières, Loire Valley $28.99

Blanc to thank for the wines of Vouvray. Grown in the famous tuffeau limestone soils, the wines of Vouvray range from dry to sweet, still to bubbly and everything in between. Some serious label examination is needed to decipher the style of the wine within the bottle. (Find some label guidance on page 24.)

But enough about Chenin, lets talk reds. Although Gamay, Malbec, Grolleau, and Cabernet Sauvignon all play minor roles, it is Cabernet Franc that steals the show. A parent to its more famous offspring Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is appreciated for the purity of its raspberry, plum, and strawberry flavours that are accented by hints of pepper, violets, and graphite. Regions such as Chinon and Bourgueil are the most renowned and can provide savoury, medium-bodied reds that often surprise the taster with an intensity of flavour one would not expect from their pale colour.

As we draw near the ocean, seafood begins to dominate the region’s restaurant menus, as do wines perfectly suited to accompanying the fare. Here we enter the aptly named Lower Loire Valley region. The maritime climate lends itself to white wine production and the grape of choice here is known as Melon de Bourgogne.

Simple when compared to the confusion of the Middle Loire, the Lower Loire’s wines largely revolve around this mild-mannered grape, and the best examples come from the Muscadet appellation. Although several subregions exist, the essential info is that the wines display subtle apple, citrus, and melon flavours that, in the best examples, are accompanied by a salty, briny, mineral note that makes them the perfect oyster pairing. Handcrafted and complex, these delicious, mineral-driven wines represent a great bargain for the savvy consumer.

LOWER LOIRE WINES

Pierre Luneau-Papin 2014 L d’Or Granite Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre & Maine AOC, Loire Valley $27.99

Taste and Learn Clearly the Loire offers a lot for the wine drinker who is willing to learn a little about its diverse potential. The best way to begin to truly understand the region is to try the wines! Travel to France and taste your way up and down the Loire, or take a much less expensive staycation and let us send you on a virtual tour of the valley with our wine experts as your guide. Either way, tasting through the Loire will give you a deeper understanding and appreciation of this truly enchanting region. 

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LOIRE VALLEY

MIDDLE LOIRE

LOWER LOIRE

GRAPE VARIETY Melon de Bourgogne

GRAPE VARIETY Chenin Blanc

GRAPE VARIETY Cabernet Franc

STYLE AND CHARACTERISTICS Subtle apple, citrus and melon, with the best examples displaying a subtle seashell minerality

STYLE AND CHARACTERISTICS From citrus, apple and pear to honey and candied ginger; still to sparkling, dry, dense, rich, age-worthy to lusciously sweet dessert wines

STYLE AND CHARACTERISTICS Raspberry, plum and strawberry flavours that are accented by hints of pepper, violets and graphite

REGION LOWER LOIRE: Muscadet, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine

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REGION MIDDLE LOIRE: Savennières, Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon

REGION MIDDLE LOIRE: Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny

GRAPE VARIETY Sauvignon Blanc STYLE AND CHARACTERISTICS Gooseberry, nettles, citrus and a smoky, flinty, sometimes chalky mineral note

UPPER LOIRE

REGION UPPER LOIRE: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, MenetouSalon, Reuilly

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LABELLING THE LOIRE STYLE WISE… Crémant indicates a sparkling wine made in the Champagne Method but from regions outside of Champagne. Crémants are often made using grapes traditional to the area of their production, so in the Loire expect anything from Chardonnay to Chenin Blanc.

"Sur-lie" is another label term worth mentioning.

This French term refers to the practice of ageing the wines on the spent yeast cells after fermentation.

Most commonly associated with the wines of Muscadet, this added step imparts a slightly yeasty note to the flavour and creaminess to the texture.

TOO DRY OR NOT TOO DRY…

A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER NAME...

Some labelling terms can give you clues to the sweetness level of the wine inside the bottle.

The following terms help you decode the style of wine you are buying:

Home to almost every style of wine, the Loire doesn’t skimp out on its offerings of rosé. Great examples can be found from almost every corner of the Loire region.

Sec: the driest level, with less than 4 grams residual sugar

Rosé de Loire: A dry rosé crafted from blends of Cabernet Franc and Grolleau.

Demi-Sec: an “off-dry” style with up to 12 grams of residual sugar

Rosé d’Anjou: A fun blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Grolleau that is finished with a touch of sweetness to offset the wine’s tart acidity. The perfect backyard barbeque rosé.

Moelleux: distinctly sweet, ranging from 12–45 grams of residual sugar per litre. These wines are often made with grapes that have been affected with Botrytis cinerea, a fungus that lends extra depth and complexity to the wines.

Doux: sweet, over 45 grams of residual sugar per litre. These bottles may also sport the term liquoreux to indicate their almost “liquor-like,” syrupy nature.

Cabernet d’Anjou: A unique style of rosé that ranges from off-dry to sweet, made from blends of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wines to try:

Wines to try:

Domaine des Lauriers 2015 Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley $21.99

Domaine de la Raimbaudière 2015 Rosé d’Anjou, Loire Valley $13.99

Domaine Loizeau Clain Les Tuloires Coteaux de l’Aubance, Loire Valley $22.99

Joseph Mellot 2015 Destinéa Rosé Vin de Pays, Loire Valley $16.99

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What comes to mind when you think of retirement? Probably relaxation, travelling and plenty of time for hobbies and loved ones. What about when you think of retirement living?

For many baby boomers, it’s rapidly changing. They’re not only choosing to live in stylish new communities, they’re embracing luxurious new lifestyles as well. It’s called life lease, and it’s an increasingly popular trend for those 55+.

55+ Life Lease actually has a long history in Canada with the first communities appearing in the late ‘80s in Manitoba. The draw for retirees? Staying connected to their peers while having the fun, independent lifestyle they want — plus they can utilize a portion of their home equity to secure a very reasonable rental payment.

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“For a lot of people 55+, it’s the perfect way to enjoy the luxury of a new condo without the same high price point or level of commitment,” says John Vander Kooy, sales representative for The Link, a life lease community soon to be under development in south-west Winnipeg.

Located at 731 Sterling Lyon Parkway, The Link allows residents to pay a one-time, fully refundable entrance fee, followed by a manageable monthly rent. In return, residents are treated to some pretty lavish new living spaces and a number of additional amenities to sweeten the deal. That means everything from a coffee bar to music rooms. The rooftop terrace alone will house a bocce court, putting green, BBQ bar, game room and virtual golf simulator.

“We’ll be building a spa, complete with massage rooms and a sauna, a fitness facility, a woodworking room, a winemaking room, a theatre and a lot more,” says Vander Kooy.

According to Vander Kooy, The Link is designed for a new generation of retirees who want more amenities and financial freedom in retirement.

“The idea is to enjoy a luxurious lifestyle at home but also more time and money to spend on what you love doing. Life lease frees up your finances so you can enjoy more travelling, volunteering, time with family — and you have the time because you don’t have to worry about maintaining your property,” says Vander Kooy.

Vander Kooy says a number of people who are 55+ choose life lease because their current home no longer suits their needs.

“For many retirees, staying in their family home isn’t as comfortable as they think it will be,” says Vander Kooy. “With maintenance becoming more difficult with age, it causes stress for family members who step in to help.”

Life lease is an attractive way to downsize, says Vander Kooy, with modern design and appliances often providing a significant upgrade over retirees’ old homes.

“We truly believe retirement can be the most exciting time in a person’s life, and we’re designing

an environment where people can embrace it,” he says.

From a financial perspective, the amenities are essentially icing on the cake for residents since they’re available at no additional cost.

Plus, the price of a suite is less than half of that of comparable condominiums, which have far fewer amenities to enjoy.

“We’re talking about saving hundreds of dollars a month when comparing the same square footage to the average new rental,” says Vander Kooy. “And the added value of being in the community can’t be understated. It’s why 55+ Life Lease is more popular now than ever.”

As the number of Canadians 55+ steadily rises, so are their expectations, inspiring life lease communities like The Link to raise the bar for what retirement can be.

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behind the label: Pearl Morissette Estate Winery

By Rob Stansel, Sommelier (CAPS)

Pearl Morissette Estate Winery 2012 Cuvée d’Une Nuit Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula $28.99

Pearl Morissette Estate 2014 Cuvée Mon Unique Gamay Niagara Peninsula $48.99

The wine culture of Niagara is changing. What was once a provincial industry clinging to the GTA, surviving on the goodwill of “buying Canadian,” has begun to emerge as a serious player in the world wine scene in cool climate viticulture and with an eye to the viticultural peripheries.

Fitting, then, that Francois Morissette, the brains behind Pearl Morissette, declared in a recent interview: “I’m not making wine for Ontario, I’m making wine for the world.”

Founded in 2007 as a collaboration between Morissette and Toronto developer Mel Pearl, Pearl Morissette set out on a path of minimal-intervention winemaking that would both pique the interest of some and raise the ire of others.

It did not take long for Pearl Morissette to make its mark on Niagara’s wine scene. When the VQA refused to certify his Riesling, claiming that it was atypical, Morissette responded by embracing a rebel identity and labelling his wine Cuvée Black Ball. It sold out swiftly.

And Francois has been happy to sell his wine to those who love it; to those who don’t, he pays no mind. Because his wines are different. They are the result of a painstakingly thoughtful winegrowing process, the culmination of Morissette’s many experiences as a sommelier in Montreal, a student of oenology in Dijon, and apprentice to several renowned winegrowers in Burgundy. He is curious, relentless, and unmoored to winemaking convention, but never reckless.

28 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Pearl Morissette Estate Winery 2013 Blanc Cuvée Métis Niagara Peninsula $41.99

Pearl Morissette Estate Winery 2012 Cuvée Madeline Cabernet Franc Niagara Peninsula $59.99

Although his wines can be described as “natural”—sulphur dioxide use is minimal, ferments are done with indigenous yeast, grapes are exposed to oxygen during vinification, and fining and filtering are rarely employed—Morissette does not consider himself a prophet or disciple of the natural movement. Instead, he borrows freely from their practices as they suit the needs of his vineyards and harvests.

The goal seems to be, above all, to produce wines of texture, leaving as little footprint as possible. Grapes are picked on the basis of skin maturity by taste, and processed with extreme care. New oak and stainless steel are rarely employed. Increasingly, the team is experimenting with clay amphorae, concrete eggs, and other old school vessels that are, for Morissette, less clinical. Wild ferments produce an array of results, but Morissette has embraced the inherent risk of the hands-off approach.

The results are wines with stories; wines that provoke discussion and stretch the limits of what we have come to expect from Niagara winemaking.

The Pearl Morissette wines are highly allocated, meaning we receive these wines only once or twice a year. If you are looking for a place to start, the 2012 Cuvée Madeline, 100 per cent Cabernet Franc from estate fruit, is a musttaste. Morissette is convinced that Cabernet Franc is Niagara’s grape of the future: a grape particularly suited to the terroirs of Niagara, with the potential, he believes, to rival the best of the Loire Valley. Taste it, and see if you don’t have something to say. 

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By Mike Muirhead, CMS, Sommelier

The Secret of Small Batch For me, it all started with Lindeman’s Bin 65 Chardonnay.

I had heard many stories about this wine: it was created for the Canadian market; it was a one-off that became a phenomenon; it was named one of the top-value Chardonnays in the world by Robert Parker himself. But what exactly does “Bin 65” mean?

The bin system in a winery is a way to keep track of wines before they are labelled. These “bins” can be metal storage bins that hold a thousand or so bottles, or simply a space in the winery that stores a specific wine.

When the word “bin” appears on a wine bottle, it implies exclusivity, scant availability, and small production. And yet, Bin 65 hit the million case mark years ago.

When we toss around the term “small batch,” we have to be very careful.

There is no governing body that defines exactly what “small” is. There are also

Tyler Harlton walks the TH vineyards in the Okanagan (photo courtesy of TH Wines)

brigades of marketers who want you to feel lucky to have your hands on one of a precious number of bottles of wine (even if that precious number is up to one million). Many producers include the terms “small batch” or “single vineyard” on their label to sell wine, but the reality is that I have seen a “single vineyard” big enough to produce hundreds of thousands of cases of wine.

Because wine is a commercial product, small is fine, but you simply cannot make a living off of producing one barrel (25 cases of wine). Like any agricultural product, you need to reach a certain scale before you become economically viable.

Then, like in any business, you have to decide if you are going to take the plunge and ramp up production, or be content with a limited production while hoping that the age-old edict of “supply and demand” will push your prices up to a level that is economically sustainable.

There is also the other side of “small lots” to consider: those that come from

larger, more established companies.

Wineries that have made their money off their “workhorse” wines (those produced by the hundreds of thousands of cases) can afford to have “pet” projects that produce 20 barrels (500 cases) under a different label.

Just because they are funded by large companies does not disqualify these wines from being “small batch”— in fact, the money to research and develop something new and unique often has to come from a deep pocket.

Hence another adage in winemaking: To make a small fortune in the wine world, start with a large one.

There are many “micro” producers that are producing great wine. There are also many “macro” producers that are producing small batch wines under their larger umbrella of wines. It is up to us as consumers to be conscious of marketing terminology. Because when it comes to quality, whether it is called a bin, a batch, or a lot matters much less than the quality of the fruit and the care that goes into making the wine. 

SOME TRULY SMALL LOTS TH Wines Riesling (270 cases): Tyler Harlton is doing everything right: small production in the heart of the Okanagan with noble varieties and a gifted hand at winemaking.

Heron Ridge The Flight (333 cases): Production of the 2014 Shiraz/ Petit Verdot is looking to be 4,000 bottles. Wines are produced with care: unfiltered and unfined, with pure winemaking skill.

Terlan Quarz (5,000 cases): An example of a big producer making a great small batch. Terlan is a co-operative that pays its growers on the quality of grapes they produce. Constant testing and

31 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

quality control shows in the final product: one of my favourite white wines in the store.

Jax Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (989 cases): Although Napa Cab continues to grow in popularity (and price), the truly high-quality wines from this region just keep getting better.

Grapes are expensive in Napa where vineyards average $750,000 per hectare (and some parcels run north of $1 million), and it is becoming one of the most exclusive markets in the world. It is refreshing to see a winery that places quality over quantity the way some Napa producers have in recent years. www.banvilleandjones.com 31

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Photo by Ian McCausland

gary’s corner

By Gary Hewitt, D-WSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier

SINCERE IMITATION (AND THEN SOME) Modern wine regions prove their mettle by imitating wines from historic regions and then by challenging the originals on their own turf. A famous example is the “Judgement of Paris” in 1976, where California wines made of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon bettered top wines from Bourgogne and Bordeaux— as judged by French experts! Americans celebrated and the French cried foul, but the legitimacy of California wine was established. The imitators had equalled the originals.

Remarkably, such achievements liberate imitators to pursue their own identity.

Once freed from the insecurity of needing to measure themselves by outside standards, they experiment with different grape varieties and techniques. Under optimal circumstances, newfound confidence leads them to make beautiful wines of unprecedented personality. Wine drinkers win by having wines from two great wine regions, the historic and the new.

But sometimes, imitators surpass the originals.

New Zealand had a respectable if rustic homegrown wine industry dependent largely on the rather ordinary grape variety Muller Thurgau. Then they planted Sauvignon Blanc—a grapevine variety

famously grown in the French appellation of Sancerre—in the Marlborough region of the South Island. Viticulturalists pioneered new vineyard techniques that evoked sensational new flavours from the vines. The international breakthrough came from Cloudy Bay Winery in the late 1980s. Their Sauvignon Blanc was an explosion of fresh gooseberry finished with mouth-watering freshness.

tered new viticultural fundamentals and using sound winemaking techniques, are once again comfortable with their terroir-transparent, naturally more austere (locals would say less overtly fruity and obvious) expression of Sauvignon Blanc. In a way, the Loire producers answered the challenge of New Zealand by adopting new progressive practices and by returning to their roots.

Suddenly, especially to New World palates, the more austere French archetype of Sancerre seemed dowdy. Dated viticultural techniques in their cool, often humid climate too often led to lean, vegetal wines. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc had become the new archetype.

In the greater scheme, it seems that producers make wine to please the market or to please themselves. A Rhone Valley producer recently told us that he stopped making wines to please influential wine critic Robert Parker when he (the producer) no longer enjoyed drinking his own wines! Now he is making wines that he wants to drink, and guess what? There is a following of drinkers (perhaps different ones) who also want to drink his wines. What is the key? Undoubtedly, it is integrity. Producers who grow the best grape varieties on appropriate soils, tend their vines by sound principles, and take care to make wines that communicate the character of the vineyard, can make great wine.

Open-minded producers of Sancerre paid attention. Rather than retrench in denial of the New Zealand competition, they looked to see what the Kiwis were doing, and in turn became imitators by adopting the new techniques. Some, by no means all, thought that success would come by producing wines as ripe and intense as those of Marlborough. But in doing so they denied their heritage, their terroir. I say this because Sancerre is not Marlborough: the climate, soils, exposures, and the culinary culture are remarkably different, and the resulting overripe wines just do not taste right.

On a recent trip to Sancerre, I sensed a confident re-emergence of terroir-driven wines. Wine after wine spoke cleanly and clearly from the glass, telling stories of sub-regional differences within the appellation. Producers, having mas-

Sancerre as a region rediscovered this, but only after facing the challenge of an upstart imitator who made them do some soul searching. A re-invigorated Sancerre is producing more transparent, exciting, and complex wines than ever before. The give-and-take between regions that are inevitably compared, such as Marlborough and Sancerre, may be partly imitation, partly competition, but ultimately great, authentic wine demands belief in one’s land. Salut! 

IMITATION SITUATION The shared and distinct characteristics of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Sancerre come to light if you taste the Dog Point 2015 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($36.99) with its nervy refinement à la Sancerre and its intense flavour that is all Marlborough alongside the Franck Millet 2015 Sancerre AOC ($33.99) with its 34 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com purity of modern viticulture and flinty signature of Sancerre.

Likewise, but at a lower price, compare the Eight Point 2015 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($18.99) with racy ripe gooseberry typical of Marlborough with the leaner more herbal Joseph Mellot 2014 Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Val de Loire IGP ($16.99) which is classic Loire.

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Choosing the right insurance is like choosing the right wine.

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TRADITION AND EXPERIENCE:

an interview with Catherine Corbeau-Mellot

Interview by Sylvia Jansen, D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

Catherine Corbeau-Mellot (photo courtesy of Domain Joseph Mellot)

Catherine Corbeau-Mellot is president of Domain Joseph Mellot in the Loire Valley. She oversees production that has been in this part of the Loire Valley for more than 500 years, dating back to 1513. Today the Joseph Mellot family estate combines half a millennia of winemaking with forwardlooking insight and innovation.

In the 1980s Catherine met and married Alexandre Mellot, and began to work to help expand the estate and develop new techniques. Her life changed with Alexandre's sudden passing in 2005, leaving her to manage the family estate.

She has honoured the family tradition, expanding their sustainable practices and producing exceptional wines.

38 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Sylvia Jansen (SJ) What sparked your interest in wine?

Catherine Corbeau-Mellot (CCM) At the age of 4, I was already helping my grandfather fill wine bottles in the winery! But when I met the one who would be my husband, Alexandre Mellot, this is when my passion started.

SJ You are currently the President of Domain Joseph Mellot, and are overseeing vineyards and production with a 500 year history. What is your history at the Domain?

The wines of Domain Joseph Mellot (photo by Ian McCausland)

CCM Part of the Domain since 1987, I have contributed with my husband to the development of our Domain and the commercial development. We started at that time with our “brand building.” I took it over when he sadly passed away in 2005, and since that day, there has not be one day where I haven’t thought about the development of Joseph Mellot. I want to keep on writing a page of our history before passing it on to it to my kids.

SJ Domain Joseph Mellot has vineyard holdings in many areas (appellations). How do you ensure that wines from each appellation retain their unique personality?

CCM I want every wine at Joseph Mellot to reflect the personality of its terroir. Every single one of them is unique and carries the purity of our lands and soils.

SJ There is a lot of talk right now about the term “minerality” in wines. Some experts say that minerality is just an invented term that has no basis in science; and others say that “minerality” is a sound descriptor, even though science does not support the idea that minerals from subsoils reveal themselves in finished wines. What do you think?

CCM Those people who have never seen or walked in our vines in Sancerre may say that. Those people who have seen and walked in our vineyard in Sancerre know why our wines reflect a tremendous minerality.

In the wine, minerality is like a smokey, gun-flint type of note, a sensation that is straight from bottom to top side of the tongue!

SJ What do you think makes the Centre (Middle) Loire and its wines so special?

CCM Centre Loire wines are welcome everywhere, as they are perfectly matched to every kind of food and culture on every continent! We have a unique landscape. Our Loire River is the last “wild river” of Europe and sunrise on the river is a unique moment, very inspiring for meditation.

The colours change every day; the historical aspect is an enormous heritage. The Loire Valley between Sully-surLoire and Chalonnes has been named as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The entire river valley is a landscape of true beauty in any season, with historic towns and villages, historic châteaux and cultivated vineyards.

SJ Joseph Mellot has a special place in the Centre Loire.

Can you tell us about the Auberge Joseph Mellot?

CCM The Auberge Joseph Mellot is the oldest restaurant of Sancerre, opened in 1882. It is part of the Historical Cafés of Europe. The inside is rich with our past, with tools that were used by winegrowers and barrel makers.

Some of our specialties include warm goat cheese and apple open sandwich with a green salad, paired with a glass of Sancerre la Chatellenie. We also have green lentils from Sancerre with strips of smoked pollock, served on a Chavigno goat cheese mousse, paired with a glass of Pouilly-Fumé le Troncsec.

SJ Joseph Mellot was one of the first wine producers to use PET plastic bottles for premium wines. What made you take this step? www.banvilleandjones.com 39

Auberge Joseph Mellot is the oldest restaurant in Sancerre, dating back to 1882 (photo courtesy of Domain Joseph Mellot)

CCM I carry a 500-year heritage. Environmental issues are important to me, and I hope that this heritage can continue for another 500 years at least! The PET plastic bottle was an important choice of our Domain to develop and create the demand for plastic packaging, as it is environmentally friendly (reducing carbon dioxide emissions by between 30 and 40%!). The best response has been from Scandinavia and countries with an environmental conscience.

SJ Many winemakers tell us that it is an unfair question to ask which is their favourite wine, because it is like asking

which is their favourite child! However, sometimes a winemaker will confess to enjoying one wine more often than others. So, if you would allow me to ask: which is your favourite child?

CCM It depends of the moment and season! For morning time, a glass of Quincy Clos de la Victoire from our Domain Jean Michel Sorbe; for my lunch, a glass of Sancerre rouge le Rabault; for the tea time, I love Pouilly-Fumé le Troncsec; Sancerre la Chatellenie as an evening aperitif; and to finish this beautiful day a glass of Sancerre l’Original! 

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unforgettable wine & cheese Photos by Ian McCausland

Wines by Banville & Jones: Sylvia Jansen, Sara McDonald & RenĂŠe Vincent Cheese by The Cheesemongers Fromagerie: Courtney Dhaliwal & Meg Gifford On a snowy day in the sunroom at 529 Wellington, wine experts Sylvia Jansen and Sara McDonald sat down with local cheese mongers Courtney Dhaliwal

and Meg Gifford, to talk about what it takes to put together a great wine and cheese pairing.

www.banvilleandjones.com 43

THE FOUNDATIONS OF YOUR CHEESE BOARD When setting up this wine and cheese event, we talked a lot about the different ways in which one can pair wine and cheese. Do you start with the cheese or the wine? Should we match one wine to each cheese or try to find wines that will work with all of the cheeses?

FAMILIES OF CHEESE We decided to start with the cheese first, then wine second.

Courtney and Meg gave us a long list of cheeses to work with and guided our choices by breaking them down into broad categories that we could understand. We started with the following categories:

FRESH: Fresh cheeses are young, rindless and very often have a spoonable texture. They tend to be ultra soft and velvety, with a mellow, bright and milky flavour profile. Think Ricotta and Fromage Blanc.

SURFACE RIPENED: Surface ripened cheeses are fairly young cheeses that ripen from their outer rind, inwards. They include bloomy rinds, such as Brie and Camembert, wrinkly ashed rinds like Grey Owl from Quebec, and washed rinds. Washed rinds are treated exactly as they sound; they are washed with brines or liquors as they age. Washed rinds can include flavour profiles ranging from buttery and nutty, as with Quebec’s Oka, to the barny and meaty flavours in France’s fabulously stinky Époisses.

SEMI FIRM / FIRM / AGED: This category of cheese is a bit sweeping. It includes several technical styles, but to round out your cheese board, texture and flavour profiles are much more meaningful than how they are made. Uncooked Pressed, Cooked Pressed, Milled Curd, and Natural Rind all fall into this category and offer a wide range of textures and flavour profiles. Vary textures from fudgy and toothsome, as with a Swiss Appenzeller, to flaky and crystalline, as you would find with a long-aged, raw milk cheddar.

BLUE: Blues are cheeses that have received the addition of blue mold (Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum) at some point in their make process. Blue cheeses run the flavour-profile gamut and can be mellow and rounded, like the ever-sweet Gorgonzola, or fiercely piquant and barbed Spanish Cabrales.

TEXTURE Texture is very important. It is a large part of the tasting experience and should be varied when building a cheese plate. Texture can tell you a lot about the age, make process, and quality of the cheese. Texture is very deliberate on the part of the cheesemaker and it is an important aspect of the sensory experience of enjoying a cheese.

PASTA FILATA: Pasta filata, or stretched curd cheeses are made by taking the cheese curds shortly after they’ve drained and heating them to a supple and spongy texture. The curds are then kneaded, pulled and gathered over and over again to create cheese ribbons that are elastic, pliable, and silky in texture. Pulled curd cheeses can be young and lithe, like Burrata or aged and beefy, like Provolone.

44 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

QUANTITY We asked the Cheesemongers how much cheese to plan for per person, depending on the event.

2 OZ PER PERSON As an appetizer or for a casual party

3 OZ PER PERSON As the main event, but not a meal

4 OZ PER PERSON For a proper cheese tasting (especially if wine is involved)

It is better to have too much cheese (and have some left over for experimenting) than run out! 

SERVING TIPS: • Always serve your cheese at room temperature.

Set a reminder for yourself to pull cheese out of the fridge about an hour before you plan to serve it.

• Use a separate knife for each cheese, or for each family of cheese (especially blues!)

• Vary the milk type (cow, sheep, goat, water buffalo), family, and texture of your cheeses. This makes for a much more interesting experience and the characteristics of each cheese will stand out.

• Have fun experimenting or trying out different accompaniments to the cheese. Honey, compote, dried fruit, and nuts are classics, but we are also experimenting with blood orange fennel chips, espresso jelly, and miso-pickled daikon.

• Try at least one new cheese on every board you serve.

Choose one that has a really funky looking rind or a cheese that may be a little stinkier than you are used to. Serve a smaller portion of these selections if you like, but always try and expand your repertoire!

LEARN MORE ABOUT WINE AND CHEESE PAIRING AT BANVILLE & JONES WINE CO.!

THE CHEESEMONGERS POP UP Try featured cheeses at the store Thursday, February 16 from 4:00–6:30.

THE CHEESEMONGERS WINE & CHEESE SEMINAR Learn more about pairing wine and cheese with the Cheesemongers along with the Banville & Jones wine experts.

Date: Wednesday, March 22 at 7 PM Cost: $99.00

Let us handle your annual reports, promotional and web copy, research reports, and media releases Editing / Design / Translation Perfect Your Documents | Empower your Team info@fireflywords.com | www.fireflywords.com | 204.557.1968

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Giant Steps 2015 Sexton Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Australia ($36.99): Grilled pineapple and mango, lots of tropical fruits balance the weight of a stronger, funkier cheese. The texture of the wine also balances well with a creamy cheese.

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Donnafugata 2013 Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria DOP, Italy ($23.99): A rich, deliciously sweet wine that has an incredible complexity, along with notes of tropical fruit, peach, and preserved citrus, and well-balanced acidity and sweetness. It was heavenly with the funky blue Dragon's Breath cheese!

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CHEESES BY THE CHEESEMONGERS FROMAGERIE: 1. Iberico Blue Wax ($12) (Firm, Goat/Sheep/Cow, Spain) 2. Idiazabal ($9) (Firm, Raw, Sheep, Spain) 3. Fuoco ($16) (Soft Ripened/Washed Rind, Water Buffalo, Quebec) 4. Dragon’s Breath Blue ($25) (Blue, Cow, Canada) 5. Challerhocker ($16) and Raclette ($11) Fondue (To the bottom left of the board) 6. Saveur du Maquis ($75 per 680g wheel) (Fresh/Soft Ripened, Sheep, France) (To the bottom right of the board) NOTE: Cheese prices can vary according to season.

For the Cheesemongers’ fondue recipe, visit our blog at www.poisepublications.com/blog

Joseph Mellot 2015 La Chatellenie Sancerre AC France ($32.99): On the nose, it has a gooseberry and passion fruit quality, but also a little stoniness. But on the palate, it has a super-intensity of flavour and lots of acidity, so it pairs well with a creamy, soft cheese.

Marcel Vézien nv Brut Tradition Champagne, France ($44.99): Champagne is all about celebration and getting together, so it was a natural pick for pairing with the fondue.

The acidity and the bubbles as well as yeasty–toasty flavour are really fun with cheeses.

Domaine des Pothiers 2014 No. 6 Cote Roannaise AC, France ($24.99): This is a wine with a beautiful aromatic quality and a nice core of red fruit, with good balance and tannins that make it a beautiful partner with a range of cheeses. It is especially good with salty, aged cheeses.

Massolino 2012 Barolo, Italy ($63.99): A gorgeous Barolo, with an amazing perfume of fruit, spice, floral and warm earth notes, firm structure, lively and lovely acidity and a long finish; a great partner to a range of matured or smoky cheeses.

Mas d’en Gil 2013 Bellmunt Red Priorat DOQ Spain ($34.99): This is a unique wine that has an incredible ripeness, lots of weight, but with an engaging freshness—an evergreen/ rosemary/anise—that makes you sit up and pay attention.

Goes well with a cheese that is smoky and salty. www.banvilleandjones.com 47

A Toned Tummy...

on YOUR LUNCH BREAK

By Courtney Tait

F

special advertising section

or more than a decade, people have been enhancing their appearance through services offered at the Ziesmann Cosmetic Clinic. Opened in 2004, the clinic specializes in both surgical and nonsurgical procedures designed to help its clients look and feel the way they want.

For many, feeling great includes toning areas of the body that remain soft or saggy regardless of healthy eating habits and exercise. The Ziesmann Clinic has recently introduced two new procedures to its services — VelaShape™ and UltraShape® — enabling clients to have their thighs, tummy or underarms

contoured quickly and easily. The best part? The procedures are non invasive with zero recovery time. “You could go to lunch, have the procedure and go back to work,” says Francesco Colosimo, territory manager of Syneron Candela, the supplier of VelaShape™ and UltraShape®.

rupture, stimulates collagen and reduces cellulite, giving the skin a smoother, firmer appearance.

So how do they work?

“VelaShape™ works on the fat between the muscle and skin, which is the hardest to get rid of with diet and exercise,” says Colosimo. “Eighty percent of patients see noticeable effects immediately.”

VelaShape™ combines Bi-Polar Radiofrequency (RF) and infrared light energy with vacuum and mechanical massage. The skin is smoothed out with vacuum and massage rollers, which facilitates the efficiency of the machine’s heat energy. The heat causes fat cells to

UltraShape® destroys fat cells by emitting sound waves of ultrasonic energy. While VelaShape™ tightens the skin, UltraShape® is aimed at reducing circumference, by removing fat in a noninvasive way. UltraShape® can be used on the abdomen, thighs and buttocks.

For maximum results, the two procedures may be used on the same area of the body.

“The response time of these procedures is faster than with any other technology on the market,” says Colosimo. “Clients are very happy with the results.”

BEFORE

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Both VelaShape™ and UltraShape® are Health Canada and FDA approved and used worldwide. In Manitoba, the machines are currently exclusive to the Ziesmann Clinic, which is at the forefront of testing and adopting new technologies that increase its clients’ satisfaction and experience.

“We make sure the treatments we are going to provide will meet our clients’ expectations,” says Dr. Ziesmann, “We want to ensure people feel happy with the results.” He points to the example of a recent client, a retired surgeon who had the UltraShape® treatment. “He wanted a couple inches off his waist and he was ecstatic with the way it turned out.”

In 2014, the Ziesmann Clinic moved to a larger location to accommodate its growing clientele. The welcoming setting

features plush chairs, greenery, artwork, magazines and exceptional service from its team of RNs, aestheticians and laser technicians. “We help people feel as relaxed as possible,” says Dr. Ziesmann.

While VelaShape™ and UltraShape® are not suitable for those seeking dramatic weight loss, they are very effective for people looking to tighten excess skin following weight loss or pregnancy.

“For people who want contouring done, but don’t want an invasive surgery, VelaShape™ and UltraShape® are excellent options,” says Dr. Ziesmann.

“There is no risk and no downtime.”

Dr. Manfred Ziesmann Cosmetic Clinic 560-201 Portage Ave Winnipeg 204.942.5070 info@ziesmanncosmetic.com www.ziesmanncosmetic.com

profile Chef Thomas Stuart, Thermëa Photos by Ian McCausland Chef Thomas Stuart came up through the Culinary Arts program at River River College. He cut his teeth at Bread & Circuses, followed by Fude, where he was soon thrust into the position of head chef. After 7 years at Fude, he was ready for a new challenge. Opening Thermëa Nordic Spa’s kitchen was a chance to take his experience working with local Manitoba producers and put a Nordic spin on it. The restaurant currently seats 70 in the winter and an extra 30 on the patio in the summer. The popularity of the spa has meant that the restaurant has expanded to also offer a buffet area to cater to its winter clients.

Chef Thomas Stuart

What’s the secret ingredient in your fridge?

That’s a tough one. Sea buckthorn is a really great local product. It is a ground cherry with a nectar-like consistency and a tart fruitiness, but also a little bit of a funk flavour. It is supposed to be one of those superfoods, but I like to use it for its pungency. I use it with a bruléed grapefruit half to add complexity to the simple flavours of the citrus. This dessert can be found on our Café gourmand. Café gourmand is a dessert craze in European menus where you get a selection of chef’s desserts along with an espresso beverage.

What are you looking at in terms of new food trends?

I am really hoping that the Scandanavian trend keeps going!

I really like the Smørrebrød trend. It’s not everywhere, so it is nice that I can do that and it be unique here. It’s a Scandanavian open-faced sandwich that starts with Danish rye bread, butter, then a protein (I have seen pork, chicken, eggs, or fish), and spring lettuce. It’s perfect for us, and I can create a few different versions. The current version on the menu features Manitoba pickerel breaded in rye flour, pan seared, and topped with dill crème fraiche, fresh dill, dill pollen, and a squeeze of fresh lemon.

Favourite wine (on your menu)?

Last summer, Todd at Banville & Jones introduced me to an Australian rosé Moscato in a half bottle: Innocent Bystander Moscato (350 ml/$12.99). It’s definitely a summer drink, but I kept going back for it.

Favourite kitchen gadget?

I like playing with the Smoking Gun, which is a contraption that has an air pump and a little place where you can burn wood chips. Air passes over the wood chips, and you can 50 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Above: Bison Carpaccio; below: Smørrebrød

use the smoke to do really cool stuff for plating, like the smoke-filled dome. That’s fun.

Favourite cookbook?

I just picked up Tartine Book No.3, which I am really excited to get into.

First meal you remember that made you interested in food?

Working at Bread & Circuses, where they bought wheat and ground it up to make flour and to make bread—how everything was made from scratch was a huge eye-opener for me. And then I travelled in Europe for a while, and just seeing the fresh food at the markets really inspired me.

Favourite food travel destination: I spent a lot of time in the South of France when I was travelling Europe, and saw that Mediterranean produce and market culture. Also, that was the first place I really enjoyed fish. One of the places I lived and worked was a hostel. I didn’t get paid, but room and board were included, and the chef there would serve a huge family-style seafood feast for us every single day.

What would you be if you weren’t a chef?

I would still work with my hands, probably in a trade like carpentry. 

Chocolate Fondue with fresh fruit and brioche French toasties

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gluggy

By Sara McDonald and Sylvia Jansen, D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

The Small Print VDP. IGP. IGT. AOC. DOCG. DO. This label language is just like the nutritional information on a box of cereal, right? Interesting only to people who are paid to decipher the small print. Maybe.

Entering into the world of wine is truthfully like learning a new language: a really large, ever-changing language. Every country has its own code of separating the highest rung of quality wines from the lower rungs. Each country uses its own language for wine label terms. The European Union has a separate set of terms—some of the member countries use them, while other countries stick to their own established language. In fact, within a country, some producers use the EU terms, while their neighbours use their own terminology. And on it goes.

Here’s why the small print matters: some of these terms really help find gems of wines.

On French wine labels, take for example, the three little letters VdP (Vin de Pays), or its EU equivalent IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée). VdP is a French term meaning “country wine,” and IGP is effectively the same thing: these are wines from a particular place in a country.

The VdP category is the middle tier in the hierarchy between the top AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) and the generic Vin de France. Nestled between Vin de France and AOC must mean that VdP are the second best wines in the country right? Well, not so fast. VdP wines might actually be the best wines for you. The laws in place for a wine to meet AOC standards are very strict, leaving little wiggle room.

Everything from grape variety to farming methods to winemaking is regulated for AOC. Consequently, if a winemaker wants to grow a non-traditional (therefore non-approved) grape variety because he or

she thinks it would thrive in the soils of their little corner vineyard, those grapes can never become an AOC wine, regardless of the level of quality. What does this mean for consumers? It means that VdP can be an interesting wine at a good price.

Along with a VdP or IGP designation on the label, there is usually a clear indication of a recognizable grape variety as well as the zones where the grapes were grown. The two largest zones are the Loire Valley and Pays d’Oc IGP. VdP wines can offer you assurance that the wine comes from a specific place, and is made with the indicated grape varieties. Each of these places can offer you something special, for a price that won’t generally break the bank. If you pick up a Sauvignon Blanc (likely Val de Loire IGP), you can expect a bright cool-climate wine with zippy acidity. The same can be said for the wines of Southern France that experience a warmer climate, with a typically softer style. The IGP label provides clues that indicate style, so that you can find solid wines that are sure to impress at your next dinner party, and that are easy on your wallet!

Truth be told, many buyers tend to look at the picture, the drawing or the name on a label, and not at the label details, but it is worth it to read the small print. 

VdP and IGP Wines to discover: Paul Mas 2014 La Forge Marsanne, IGP Pays d’Oc France $16.99 Paul Mas 2014 d’A Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, IGP Pays d’Oc France $19.99 Lorgeril 2015 L'Orangeraie Rosé IGP Pays d’Oc France $14.99 Paul Boutinot 2015 Cuvée Jean-Paul Red Vaucluse, France $14.99 Paul Boutinot 2014 Cuvée Jean-Paul White Vaucluse, France $14.99

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from castles to caves:

TRAVELLING THE LOIRE VALLEY

By Gary Hewitt, D-WSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier

Originally a medieval fortress, the Château at Amboise became the royal residence in the 15th century, and is the burial site of Leonardo da Vinci.

Of all the wine regions I have visited, it is the Loire Valley that beckons for exploration beyond the world of wine. That’s not to say that the Loire’s attractions for a wine traveller are wanting; au contraire, the wine and food scene is outstanding. But for a visitor interested in geography, history, architecture, bicycle or boat touring, or a destination with something for the whole family, the Loire has it all.

Central France to the Atlantic Ocean The Loire is France’s longest river. It rises 1,000 km inland on the Massif Central, just east of the southbound Rhône, and flows north before making a wide bend at Orléans to run west for half its length to the Atlantic

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Saumur's troglodyte homes are built into creamy white limestone, and range from very modest villages to luxurious hotels.

Château de Chenonceau, which spans the Cher River, is the second most visited castle in France.

The largest château in the Loire Valley, Chambord was built in the 16th century as a hunting lodge for King Francis I.

Ocean. It is also France’s last major untamed river. The 500-km stretch from Nantes near the Atlantic upstream to Sancerre lures tourists and wine enthusiasts alike.

Along this route, the Loire Valley can be divided into four parts: Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and Centre Loire. The first three parts are named for the cities Nantes, Angers and Saumur, and Tours, respectively.

the maritime influence gives way to an increasingly continental climate with cold winters and warm summers.

The Loire’s temperate climate, known as the most pleasant in France, is cool for growing grapes, and moving inland,

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Châteaux and Caves Loire art and architecture blossomed in the 15th to 16th centuries. French nobility, invigorated by military success and enamoured with the cultural explosion of Renaissance Italy, moved from Paris to their magnificent

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Tolaini Estate wines are available exclusively at Banville & Jones Wine Co. Offer applies to 750 ml bottles of Valdisanti. Offer expires March 31, 2017. Delivery available.

new châteaux built on the Loire. Construction consumed the soft, easily quarried limestone called tuffeau common to Saumur. A legacy of caverns and tunnels was created for future wine cellars, the WWII French Resistance, and troglodytes.

Troglodytes (“cave dwellers”) live in homes carved directly into the soft tuffeau. Some homes are small and unpretentious; others have elaborate manor-like facades complete with turrets carved into the cliff face; and some are grouped into villages.

Above ground, the legacy includes splendid châteaux, with extensive grounds and elaborate Renaissance gardens. Visit a few of the more than 70 châteaux to reveal the epic history of Renaissance France. The enormous and magnificent Chambord was, in the words of travel writer Anthony Peregrine, “conceived by the 25-year-old François I not so much as an abode but to ram home the superbness of a French monarchy second in splendour only to God.” The sprawling and strategically situated Amboise is linked to the smaller royal château Clos Lucé, Leonardo da Vinci’s last residence, and is today a museum with models of da Vinci’s inventions on display.

And, the beautiful Chenonceau, a château built across the Cher River, has inspired Disney fantasy palaces.

The Garden of France The Loire is famous for its abundance of fresh vegetables, tree fruits, ocean and river fish, poultry, beef and charcouterie, sweet specialties, and goat cheeses. The Touraine nickname le Jardin de France is apt for the whole region. The cuisine changes with the seasons, and local market gardens are a cook’s paradise. An equally diverse range of wines includes

Travel the Loire Valley à vélo

For more maps and information about La Loire à Vélo, visit www.cycling-loire.com. For an independent guide to cycling in France, visit www.freewheelingfrance.com

lively sparkling, rosé and dry white wines, fresh dry reds, and demi-sec (off-dry/medium sweet) to unctuous liquoreux dessert wines. The cool climate endows all styles with refreshing, food-friendly acidity, whether they are Muscadet from Pays Nantais, Chenin Blanc or Cabernet Franc from Anjou-Saumur or Touraine, or Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre.

Seven course surprise dinners expertly paired with fine wine.

Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion.

Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave. 58 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com w w w. b e a u j e n a s . c o m

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204.233.4841

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The Loire Valley’s 800-kilometre cycle tourism route, called La Loire à Vélo, was built at a cost of EUR 52 million and traverses the whole Loire wine region. La Loire à Vélo project encompasses all you need in order to enjoy the Loire by bicycle: maps that include everything from family-friendly short rides to longer trips; accredited accommodation along the route; luggage transfer between stops along the route; breakdown assistance; tourist stops with water and bathroom breaks; guided and self-guided tours; and of course, all manners of bicycles to rent.

Cycling part or all of the La Loire à Vélo gives a human pace to touring and immerses one in the Loire’s natural beauty.

If self-propulsion is your thing, paddle a canoe or kayak, or row a small flat-bottom boat. The less energetic can commission larger traditional flat-bottom working boats called toues for day-trips or houseboats for multi-day excursions. You can craft your tour however you choose or select from themed tours such as wine and chocolate, castles, or cycle-and-boating combination tours.

When to Go & Where to Stay Try to avoid the tourism peaks of July and August. Consider a visit in late spring when the châteaux gardens are in full bloom, or the fall, when the markets and restaurants are filled with the season’s harvest and spoils of the hunt.

The cathedral cities Angers, Tours and Orleans are the main tourist centres, but the smaller towns and countryside can offer more affordable comfort and a laid back pace.

Sancerre alone is worth a 2–3 day stay to explore the medieval town and surrounding vineyards. 

Photo credit: Le Grand Eléphant. Les Machines de l'île © Jean-Dominique Billaud/LVAN

À Vélo or en Bâteau

LES MACHINES DE L’ÎLE Les Machines de l’île is a mind-blowing “artistic project” evolving on the former shipyards of Nantes. Part Jules Verne and part Leonardo da Vinci, it is an imaginary world populated by giant “machines” inspired by the natural world. The Great Elephant, 12 metres high and capable of carrying 50 passengers, was phase one; the fantastical three-level Marine Worlds Carousel was phase two. Work continues on the grandest project of all, The Heron Tree, conceived as a tree floating in the air with gardens, giant insects, and two herons perched atop with all branches accessible to visitors. Prototypes and full-scale machines are demonstrated and the workshop is open to visitors. www.lesmachines-nantes.fr/en/

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FORMERLY BANVILLE & JONES WINE INSITITUTE

Andrea Eby Graduate and Scholarship Winner program at the flagship London, England school. Her accomplishments earned her the ProWein Scholarship including a trip, as a special guest of the organizers, to attend the renowned trade-only ProWein wine show in DĂźsseldorf, Germany. This prestigious award is given to only two Diploma graduates worldwide.

Andrea will bring her enriched experience through the ProWein Scholarship to benefit wine education in Manitoba.

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t is with great pride that we announce that our own Andrea Eby has graduated from the WSET Level 4 Diploma Program with Distinction. Her marks landed her within the top 5 cumulative scores for all WORLDWIDE graduates this year. Andrea completed this intensive

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Along with being one of our senior Educators with Wine & Drinks College Manitoba™, Andrea also serves as Operations Director of the Manitoba Chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS/ACSP), supporting the wine and drinks community in Winnipeg and across Canada.

Andrea joins faculty members Gary Hewitt and Sylvia Jansen as one of a small number of Canadians to have graduated from this intensive program, each having ranked among the top 1 per cent of worldwide graduates to win scholarships in their respective years. In fact, Banville & Jones holds a special distinction within the WSET community of Approved Program Providers: all three of our faculty members are scholarship winners from their WSET diploma studies.

We have known for a long time that our staff and teachers at Banville & Jones and Wine & Drinks College Manitoba are industry leaders. Andrea has further enriched this reputation.

Congratulations Andrea Eby, D-WSET, Sommelier!

Wine & Drinks College Manitoba

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hether you are exploring spirits, beer, saké or wine, our internationally accredited college offers a unique selection of courses and programs in Manitoba. Award-winning instructors who are passionate about sharing their knowledge will help you move from interest to wisdom, without ever losing your love for the subject.

WDCM™ offers three ranges of wine & drinks programs: internationally accredited certification programs, wine and drinks appreciation courses, and custom educational events.

CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS WSET® Wine Scholar and Professional Sommelier Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET®) qualifications are globally recognized as the international standard in wine and spirit knowledge. Through its network of Approved Program Providers, WSET® offers courses in more than 65 countries. We are proud to be an Approved Program Provider! WSET courses are designed for enthusiasts in wine and spirits, for those considering a career, and for established professionals in hospitality.

We offer regular session (evening) courses and intensive weekend-based, or week-long programs for WSET® certification.

Wine & Drinks College Manitoba recognized as Certified Educational Institution Wine & Drinks College Manitoba™ (WDCM™) is happy to announce that the college has been recognized as a Certified Educational Institution by the federal government. This recognition means that eligible students qualify for tuition and education tax credits on eligible courses.* For course information, visit winedrinkcollegemb.com. *Students are eligible for tax credits on courses that meet hour requirements.

6 evening classes fully supported by wine tastings. Pass the course-ending exam and you can add the IWS postnominal to your name. The IWS is the first extension to the Wine Scholar Guild’s successful French Wine Scholar™ program that we helped launch last year.

CAPS Professional Sommelier Program With our Sommelier credentials, backed by internationally recognized Sommelier associations, you will have access to new opportunities in the wine and drinks industry.

Our Sommelier programs are being revised and updated to meet the time demands of today’s wine and spirits professionals and wine lovers. With world-renowned instructors and modular programming, our challenging Sommelier certifications will provide you with rewarding experiences and recognized professional credentials.

Courses: • WSET Level 2 Award in Wines and Spirits • WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits • WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines ®

Wine Scholar Guild (WSG) WSG is an international provider of programs focusing on the wines and wine regions of France, Italy, and Spain.

These challenging programs will interest wine lovers and those considering the Professional Sommelier Program.

The highest level, Professional Sommelier Certificate, is accredited in Canada through the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS/ACSP) and recognized in all 50 countries of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI). Our new Introductory Sommelier Certificate (ISC) will be recognized as an industry standard.

Information on our innovative new options will be available April 1, 2017 online at winedrinkcollegemb.com.

WINE & DRINKS APPRECIATION COURSES (NO EXAMS)

Italian Wine Scholar The Italian Wine Scholar program is a challenging specialized course on Italian wine for committed students of wine. There are two separate units: Unit 1: The Wines of Northern Italy (Spring 2017) and Unit 2: The Wines of Central & Southern Italy (Fall 2017). Each unit has ™

Courses for those interested in pursuing their love of wine without writing exams: Essentials of Wine: Over two evenings, learn to taste, explore your palate, and assess the price versus quality of wine. No prior experience needed.

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Essentials 2: Take your wine knowledge to the next level.

Our engaging instructors will build on the skills learned in Essentials 1 by focusing on topics such as pairing, regions, viticulture, and more. Essentials 2 will be of interest to all wine lovers. No previous courses or knowledge required but Essentials 1 would be an asset.

At WDCM™, we can also design a day, evening or afternoon session for your group, team-building session or small conference. While we can tailor an event to your group, some of our most sought-after activities include wine games and competitions, wine and cheese sessions, and targeted classic and emerging wine region tastings.

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Beer Essentials: Our Beer Essentials program is perfect for anyone passionate about beer, and is an excellent preparation for anyone headed to the Professional Sommelier Program. Through tasting and learning, you will gain an understanding of beer production and the incredible range of world styles of beer.

CUSTOM EDUCATIONAL EVENTS

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For all of our courses, programs and sessions, please visit our website, banvilleandjones.com, or contact us at contact@winedrinkcollegemb.com for more information.

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4-930 LORIMER BLVD | 204.487.2263 | PROTACLINIC.CA

WINE & FOOD

EVENTS SCHEDULE FEBRUARY 2017 THROUGH JUNE 2017

Wine & Food Evening

Saturday, April 29: Café Dario

Luxury Tasting

Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing events! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Thursday, May 11: The Merchant Kitchen

Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialties cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.

Cost: $85.99 per person

Cooking Demo

Friday, February 17: Warm Me Up!

Learn from the best! Banville & Jones wine experts team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.

Thursday, February 23: Café Dario Saturday, March 4: Pizzeria Gusto Friday, March 24: Winter Farewell!

Thursday, April 6: Carne Italian Chophouse Thursday, April 20: Beaujena's French Table

Saturday, May 27: Spring Time Fresh!

Friday, June 16: Summer Cool Down Thursday, June 29: Café Dario

Cost: $99.00 per person SOLD OUT

Saturday, February 25: Red, White and... Blue?

America's Finest

Friday, March 31: Welcome to Burgundy Saturday, May 13: Tour of Italy

Cost: $89.99 per person Thursday, March 16: Down Home Cookin’ Thursday, June 1: Patio Favourites

For updated information on wine and food events or to reserve your tickets, click on Events & Education at banvilleandjones.com • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event.

• Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscan Room unless otherwise noted.

• Prices do not include taxes.

1616 ST MARY’S RD, WINNIPEG

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204.948.WINE (9463)

STORE HOURS: Monday to Friday: 10 am to 8 pm www.banvilleandjones.com 63 Saturday: 10 am to 6 pm Sunday and holidays: 11 am to 6 pm

culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529.

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared old world dishes and topnotch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves.

Everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Chef Michael Dacquisto brings back Italian favourites from Pasta la Vista and Dacquisto—and a fresh new menu, including rosemary rotisserie prime rib, thick grilled chops, Bistecca Fiorentina, fresh pastas, and Italian classics. Anthony’s antipasto bar pairs fresh selections with wine chosen from an exemplary list. Carne is a warm and inviting Italian chophouse just steps from the MTS Centre and The Forks. Private rooms available. Open for dinner Tuesday–Sunday.

295 York Avenue 204.896.7275

Mango’s in South Beach Casino & Resort offers a variety of exciting food and beverages. Everything from our well-known Surf & Turf, Prime Rib or Brunch buffets to our daily changing breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets.

We offer a food selection that is one of a kind in Manitoba. Mango’s offers great daily promotions for Ocean Club members, as well as special event days.

1 Ocean Drive, Scanterbury 204.766.2100

Let yourself be tempted by Thermëa’s cuisine, both healthy and gourmet. In a chic, casual Bistro atmosphere, try a tasty dish or a 4-course gastronomic meal in front of a fireplace while admiring nature through the enormous bay windows. The décor is perfect for an unforgettable experience, regardless of the occasion.

775 Crescent Drive 204.284.6868 64 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Located just 2 blocks south of the MTS Centre, La Roca combines authentic Mexican cuisine and a captivating ambiance to provide a unique evening experience. Open Tuesday–Saturday, 3:00 pm till late.

Enjoy happy hour with friends, evening dining, or a late-night fiesta.

La Roca has it all.

155 Smith Street 204.615.9605

Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion.

302 Hamel Avenue 204.233.4841

Fine fare, done right. Located in the Inn at the Forks, SMITH is a new culinary experience built on craftsmanship and a dedication to the finer points. Celebrate the truth of honest food created from the diversity of the lands and waters of our great country.

75 Forks Market Road 204.944.2445

Banville & Jones Wine Co. partners with Manitoba's finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list.

For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@banvilleandjones.com

culinary partners Across the Board

Elements

Mano a Mano/Teo’s

Swiss Chalet

Aurora Pizzeria Café

Elkhorn Resort

Mere Hotel

The Alt Hotel

Beaujena’s French Table

Enoteca

Mon Ami Louis

The Merchant Kitchen

Boulevard Pub and Bistro

Olive Garden Italian Restaurant

The Victoria Inn

Café 22

Era Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights

Café Dario

Hotel Fort Garry

Chew

Hy’s Steakhouse

Clementine

Joey Restaurants

D-Jay’s Restaurant

Joey’s Only Seafood

Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant

La Roca

Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar

Pizzeria Gusto Prairie’s Edge

Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s

Radisson Hotel

TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant

Sabai Thai

Urban Prairie Cuisine

Segovia

Vera Cucina

Le Cercle Molière

South Beach Casino & Resort

VG Restaurant at the Fairmont

Manitoba Club

St. Charles Country Club

Wasabi Sabi

Máquè

Super Deluxe Pizza

Contemporary Manitoban Fare Created by our talented culinary team using fresh, locally sourced produce and ingredients.

Located in the Fairmont Winnipeg hotel. For reservations or further information call 204 957 1350 or visit www.velvetglovewinnipeg.com

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By Sylvia Jansen,

D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

Sweeten Me Up If I can generalize, there are two large classes of sweet wines: one that comes from the sweetness of the fruit and the other that comes from the stirring of a spoon. Many of us believe that we prefer dry wines. Sweet is for soft drinks. Except for the trend in table wines marketed as dry, but that are somewhat sweet.

The trend was obvious to me on a recent trip to an American city. I visited a wine shop where a few dozen wines were open for tasting. It was a great way to sample a large number of (mostly California) wines. The similarity among them was striking: many were noticeably a bit sweet. Not sickly sweet, mind you, but with enough sugar to leave a sweet-ish impression on the palate. Other customers around me were also sampling, and buying a lot—until they encountered a modestly priced, dry Spanish red, that is. When I tasted it, I thought, Wow, good price for a nice, balanced wine; but the reaction of many other people around me was Wow, that just puckered my palate. It’s bitter. No thanks. The Spanish red sat mostly ignored, like a bowl of steamed broccoli sitting on a buffet table next to a stack of bacon-wrapped onion rings.

That experience rings true here. Some of the popular big wine brands are multi-regional blends with an added sweet component to soften the palate and up the fruity component.

(Imagine a winemaker stirring the equivalent of three generous teaspoons of sugar, or syrupy Rectified Concentrated Grape Must—it’s a real thing!—into a bottle of wine.)

On the upside, these are popular wines, especially for those with sensitive palates. These people go through life being told that they will “grow into” dry wines as their palate “develops.”

For people with a truly sensitive palate (between 10% and 20% of wine lovers), this is simply not true: they will always

66 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

have a sensitivity to bitterness. They will always want coffee with sugar and cream. Finding a wine that suits, especially in a recognizable brand, is a great discovery.

On the downside, label information is sadly lacking. Labels almost never provide sweetness information, at best leaving us guessing, or at worst being misleading. (Only in sparkling wines is it usual to state sweetness on labels, and only for EU sparkling wines is it required.) These wines are often significantly adjusted for acidity, tannins, and other flavours as well as for sweetness. That information is also missing. They are often large, multi-regional or even multi-national blends.

Detractors say these are “manufactured” wines without the sense of place that wine lovers hold dear—made by stirring with a spoon, so to speak.

The trend has the effect of leading us to ignore wines that offer a simple sweetness of fruit. Among them are well-made dry wines with smooth tannins and a generous impression of sweetness, without massive tinkering. Another is the category of traditional well-made sweeter wines that offer a breadth of styles and beautiful possibilities for wine lovers.

But if those with a sensitive palate could boldly say they want something sweet, and are open to experimenting, and if those who think they should drink only dry wines could boldly say they are open to experimenting, imagine what our dinners could look like. We could enjoy a medium-sweet Riesling with curry, or we could try a sweeter red Marzemino or Lambrusco with a spicy chorizo sausage pizza. And maybe we could even ask other producers to give us some labelling information to say if and how they have sweetened up their wine.

So here’s to you, sweetly. 

MEMBERSHIP INCLUDES:

CELLAR STARTER CLUB Are you looking to expand your wine collection and your palate?

The Banville & Jones Cellar Starter Club is your ticket to a well-rounded wine collection and access to some of the world’s best wine finds.

For more details, contact Andrea Eby at andrea@banvilleandjones.com or call 204.948.9463. * For club members outside of Winnipeg, we are pleased to store your crate for a short time, until pick-up can be arranged.

TEXT A SOMMELIER Have a wine question? Your answer is just a text away!

Impress your friends with your personal Banville & Jones Sommelier, at your fingertips.

Text us your wine questions: • Wines we have in stock • Wines we carry • Recommendations from a restaurant wine list • Is it time to open that special bottle?

How does it work?

Between 9 am and 9 pm, text wine-related questions to 204.400.0499 and one of our 7 Sommeliers will text you back with an answer.

• Wine selections carefully curated by the Banville & Jones buying team include a well-balanced mix of wines that are classic standards, new to our market (and your palate), and/or difficult to obtain.

• Flexible subscription options include 6 or 12 bottle cases and a choice of all-red wines or a mixed option (mostly red, with some special whites, sparking, fortified, and dessert wines).

• A thoughtful information package with a detailed description of the wines, producer notes, cellaring potential, and food-pairing recommendations.

• Access to our team of in-house sommeliers to answer your questions.

• Cases delivered quarterly to your home (within city limits).*

WORDS

HAVE

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Firefly’s team has over 20 years of experience training professionals in the business, government and non-profit sectors how to refine their communication skills. We provide on-site training from basic grammar to advanced writing techniques.

Using dynamic, interactive training methods, we teach groups of up to 20 team members to: • • • • • • • •

Write professional emails Develop effective presentations Manage the transition from research to writing Write clear instructions Polish prose with clear writing techniques Revisit basic grammar and punctuation skills Use persuasive techniques Use positive verbal and non-verbal communication strategies

Choose from our list of courses, or let us work with you to tailor a course to your team’s needs.

PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT | WORKSHOPS | CONFERENCE SESSIONS 68 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com Firefly Communications Experts | www.fireflywords.com | info@fireflywords.com

shopping list Azienda Agricola Reassi 2015 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei DOC, Italy $17.99........................................................…70 Bacalhôa 2013 Moscatel de Setúbal DO, Portugal $17.99..........................................................................................................12 Casa Silva 2013 Late Harvest Semillon/Gewürztraminer Colchagua Valley, Chile (375 ml) $9.99..............................................12 Château d’Epiré 2014 Savennières AOC, France $28.99..........................................................................................................21 Château Les Pins 2014 Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC, France $26.99..............................................................................................12 Cristom 2013 Mt Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $49.99...............................................................70 Delaforce Fine Tawny Port Duoro, Portugal $17.99...................................................................................................................12 Dog Point 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $36.99........................................................................................34 Domaine de Martinolles Vergnes Limoux Méthode Ancestrale AOC, France $19.99....................................................................12 Domaine de la Raimbaudière 2015 Rosé d’Anjou AOC, France $13.99......................................................................................25 Domaine de la Treille 2015 Thibault Henrion Cabernet Franc Anjou AOC, France $14.99........................................................21 Domaine des Lauriers 2015 Sec Vouvray AOC, France $21.99....................................................................................................24 Domaine des Pothiers 2014 Nº6 Gamay Cote Roannaise AOC, France $24.99.........................................................................21,47 Domaine du Salvard 2014 Delaille Blanc Cheverny AOC, France $21.99......................................................................................21 Domaine Loizeau Clain 2015 Les Tuloires Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC, France $22.99.............................................................21 Donnafugata 2013 Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria DOP, Italy $23.99..........................................................................................47 Eight Point 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $18.99....................................................................................34 Franck Millet 2015 Sancerre AOC, France $33.99........................................................................................................................34 Giant Steps 2015 Sexton Chardonnay Yarra Valley, Australia $36.99...................................................................................47 iOVE 2015 Trebbiano Romagna DOC, Italy $14.99.................................................................................................................70 Heron Ridge 2012 The Flight Shiraz/Petit Verdot Stellenbosch WO, South Africa $22.99..........................................................31 Innocent Bystander 2010 Moscato Yarra Valley, Australia (375 ml) $12.99.................................................................................50 Jax Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California $84.99.................................................................................31 Joseph Mellot 2015 La Chatellenie Sancerre AOC, France $32.99...........................................................................................47 Joseph Mellot 2015 Destinéa Rosé Loire Valley IGP, France $16.99.........................................................................................24 Joseph Mellot 2014 Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Loire Valley IGP $16.99....................................................................................34 Justino’s 10-Year Old Verdelho Madeira DO, Portugal (375 ml) $34.99...................................................................................12 Kitchen Sink nv Artisanal Red Blend California, USA $25.99..................................................................................................70 Lorgeril 2015 L'Orangeraie Rosé Pays d’Oc IGP, France $14.99..............................................................................................53 Marcel Vézien nv Brut Tradition Champagne, France $44.99....................................................................................................47 Marcel Vézien Demi-Sec Champagne, France $44.99..................................................................................................................12 Mas d’en Gil 2013 Bellmunt Red Priorat DOQ Spain $34.99....................................................................................................47 Massolino 2012 Barolo DOCG, Italy $63.99.............................................................................................................................47 Paul Boutinot 2015 Cuvée Jean-Paul Red Vaucluse IGP, France $14.99.....................................................................................53 Paul Boutinot 2014 Cuvée Jean-Paul White Vaucluse IGP, France $14.99...................................................................................53 Paul Mas 2014 La Forge Marsanne, IGP Pays d’Oc France $16.99.............................................................................................53 Paul Mas 2014 d’A Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Pays d'Oc IGP, France $19.99..........................................................................53 Pearl Morissette 2012 Cuvée d’Une Nuit Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $28.99..............................................28 Pearl Morissette 2013 Blanc Cuvée Métis Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $41.99..................................................................28 Pearl Morissette 2014 Cuvée Mon Unique Gamay, Niagara Peninsula VQA $48.99..................................................................28 Pearl Morissette 2012 Cuvée Madeline Cabernet Franc Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $59.99.............................................28 Pierre Luneau-Papin 2014 L d’Or Granite Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre & Maine AOC, France $27.99................................................21 Quinta do Infantado Ruby Porto e Douro DO, Portugal $22.99...................................................................................................12 Remo Farina 2014 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC, Italy $21.99...........................................................................70 Tenuta l’Armonia Pop Frizzi Col Fondo Vicenza, Italy $19.99...................................................................................................12 Terlan 2014 Quarz Sauvignon Blanc Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy $67.99....................................................................................31 TH Wines 2014 Riesling Okanagan Valley VQA, Canada $28.99..............................................................................................31 Vina Zorzal 2015 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain $14.99........................................................................................................70

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.

* C U STOMER P IC K *

top picks

DOUG BROWN

ANDREA EBY

ANNA EVERETT

Cristom 2013 Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon $49.99

Azienda Agricola Reassi 2015 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei DOC, Italy $17.99

iOVE 2015 Trebbiano Romagna, Italy $14.99

More inviting than a loose football in the end zone, this Pinot Noir is as well mannered and finessed as a first date. A pleasing smack of berry and citrus that is smooth and refined from start to finish. Not a single forced fumble with this game winning major out of Oregon.

A lightly sparkling frizzante-style wine crafted from the delicately aromatic and rare Pinello grape.

Bright and crisp, the Antichi Reassi pleases the palate with hints of apple, jasmine, and pineapple. The perfect alternative to Prosecco, with just the slightest touch of sweetness to balance the wine’s naturally refreshing acidity.

RHONDA HANCOCK

JOSIE DUTHOIT

MIKE MUIRHEAD

Kitchen Sink nv Artisanal Red Blend, California $25.99

Remo Farina 2014 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC, Italy $21.99

Vina Zorzal 2015 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain $14.99

This winemaker shows their creativity by using the “kitchen sink” approach to winemaking, blending small lots from their cellar’s various selections of Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Syrah. It is full bodied and smooth with delicious ripe berry flavours. Very drinkable alone or paired with some BBQ ribs.

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Remo Farina has concocted the answer to the age-old question, “What is love?” That answer is Ripasso; Remo Farina’s 2013 Valpolicella Ripasso, to be exact. Made with the second passing of juice over the Amarone grapes, this wine brings decadence everywhere it goes. It has deep, dark, and delicious flavours, with hints of subtle black pepper, citrusy chocolate, and blackcurrants. Full on the palate but uplifting through the finish.

Such easy drinking, at $14.99 this Trebbiano is too good to be true.

Notes of crisp apple, peach, and hints of floral on the nose, and follow through on the palate. It is a dry wine with beautifully matching acidity making it well balanced. Enjoy with lighter fare: chicken, veal, or certain soft cheeses.

The Zorzal wines have been one of our strongest new arrivals in the past 12 months. Garnacha Blanca (White Grenache) holds a special place in my heart for its fresh melon and guava with a rich palate and fresh acidity. It is a style I search out whenever I am looking over a new wine list, and this one has made my 2016 top 10 list!

EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF NATURAL LUXURY. Riverstone Spa at Inn at the Forks is a sophisticated sanctuary in the centre of the city, which offers unparalleled spa services in a serenely stunning environment.

Purchase gift cards at Riverstone Spa, Inn at the Forks front desk, or online at www.riverstonespa.ca. To book an appointment, call 204.944.2444.

Monday - Saturday 9-9 Sunday 10-6 75 Forks Market Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada R3C 0A2

DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF RENEWAL AT RIVERSTONE SPA TODAY.

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MARIC HOMES 204.339.2035 • MARICHOMES.COM

BUILDING IN: BRIDGWATER DEVELOPMENTS, COUNTRYSIDE CROSSING, PRITCHARD FARM SOUTHLANDS VILLAGE, SAGE CREEK, BONAVISTA, RIDGEWOOD WEST, SOUTH POINTE, DEER POINTE, HERMITAGE CLOSE, BEAVERBROOK, WHITESHELL, YOUR LOT